ISCAR inserts last just as long as Kennametal at half the costs. I pay about $17 per insert, and the Iscar are about $9 a piece with better speeds and feeds than Kennametal.
I've been using Kyocera, Iscar and Ceratizit inserts for a long time and all have proven to be much much more resistant to wear than Kennametal aswell as being able to push better speeds and feeds.
I have found you need to try every brand , sometimes the cheapest performs the best. It really just depends on the application. And sometimes the machine. I’ve had the same job on two different machines run two different inserts. Both ran about the same life in opposite machines. But if you put the wrong insert in the wrong machine it cut life in half. Testing every thing is the only way* to know.
I originally started out as a lathe machinist, and learning all the new insert codes styles has really been the bane of my existence, and it’s gotten so complicated, since multiple brands change their code system , vs milling it’s mostly all the same .
I find those of Sandvik and Seco to be easiest to understand when it comes to the different shapes and their purposes. Though I do admit, I don't have much experience at the moment. At my current job, I use Seco, they have insets with very small nose radius which I need for the polymers that I machine.
@@mattcyr3342 yup, that’s how sandvik labels their BS, everyone understands the ccgt, but they just love throwing random numbers in there, why can’t they just stick to the standard 432 or whatever, even in metric it still works but no lol different companies gotta fuck with us. Kennametal does it with their tools too
From my own experience I know that turning in stainless steel causes the biggest problems and this is what you should take care of, I tested 2 options of sandvik and with 3 tungaloy, but only tungaloy for superalloys managed to get the hang of it
I worked in a shop for the last year running Nitronic 50 and some inconel on a lathe and we had decent success with Walther CNMG 432 nrs (wsm01 grade) but it was the kind of shop that refused to buy things like through coolant tooling unless you had a scream fight with HR so I don’t work there anymore
Personally I prefer the Sumitomo CNMG tips, tested against Sandvik, Walter and Kennametal, with the same speeds and feeds on stainless just always get the Sumitomos chipping better and getting a better Surface finish with the VBMT
@@neovenom7187 I thought this aswell but could be they cut with coolant to removing the milscale and there was some left over residual cutting fluid when doing the first test cut. Then the heat vaporized any remaining coolant so second test cut had nothing to vaporize?
Would be better to flip the workpiece to do the same cut when testing or only cut halfway with each tool. First insert cut more material because of the larger diameter.
The lathe changes the RPM to keep the speed the same.... and the depth of cut on both was .100". The MRR was the exact same on both cuts, the only thing that was reduced was cycle time.
YG inserts for $3.5 an insert USD. Works great for low carbon steel 1018-1025. Thousand + cuts @ similar feeds to what was run in this video here. Saving lots of cheddar with those bad boys
I love sandvik, it’s too bad they aren’t allowed to show them, sandvik makes some of the best inserts in the world, every company has something it’s good at, I think kennametal is better with drills
Pretty conservative feed rate. We use a different product, but cut much faster and are still reasonably conservative within the suggested parameters. Similar material also (4150qtsr)
Japanese and German tools are the best for turning and milling on turning centers : Walter,Schuman,Sumitomo carbide inserts are the top. Iscar and Kennametal are superior for grooving and drilling on all materials. And don't forget Sandvik Coromant, a bit higher for prices but ever a world leaders on the tooling equipment
We use for turning Sandvik Coromant and for grooving, parting and boring 3 Japanese brands, Kyocera, Mitsubishi Carbide and Big Kaiser/Big Daishowa, all very good brands, back in the days we had Hertel, Seco Tools etc. also good stuff.
I presonally really like kennametal inserts, but Iscar and Sandvik are also very good insert brands, especially Sandviks. I just have more experience with Kennametal and Sandvik Inserts.
Hello guys I'm a huge fan I watch all the time. I am a rank amateur at machining and I was just wondering what cutters you would recommend for not so good machines?
Should really explain the differences in coatings. Both will cut and help tool life, but they're both better in different applications. PVD requires far less heat than CVD and offers a tougher coating, while CVD requires higher temps and is much better for stable and uninterrupted cuts. Obviously much more goes into it than that, but thats a baseline when deciding between the 2. I also run Kennametal inserts and run much faster and hard than that. Also why run a CNMG? WNMG offers the exact same geometry with a far cheaper cost per edge with 0 difference in performance....
I’m running 516 70 and 517 70. What would you recommend for an insert to use? 26 inch diameter with 450 sfm. .100 depth of cut and feed of .012. I can’t find an insert to last
There's specific grades for titanium but inserts for steel can do it too. As a rough starting point, titanium will need to run at 50% SFM of stainless. Try to find out who your local SECO sales rep is, they'll tell you what to use and who can supply it for you locally
@@WCGwkf ASTM F136. I'll have to investigate because the place where I last got inserts had no clue on what to use. They seem more tailored to regular machine work😒. Thanx for the input.
@@gerrit2107 would love a little tech overview of the spindle connections systems. cat/SK, BT, BMT, capto, HSK, big plus, KM. application wise what strengths and weaknesses are
I understand the visibility issue but the results of the test are looking at the insert afterwards. We don't really need a clear view of the machining.@@Roberty98
Ya you'd think with the funds these guys seem to have they could at least run a proper test where they run the inserts to failure and you actually learn something. No one really learned anything from the actual "test" they did in the video.
@@Gurziak If Kennametal costs twice as much and lasts 3x longer, i think its still a value worth buying. I can buy cheap chinese carbide endmills all day long that get smoked first use, while my 10 year old HSS local ground cutter keeps going. Not saying HSS is better than carbide, but quality vs price is a big factor. I have some Kennametal carbide endmills, and they do take a beating way more than any other ive used.
@@Mikkel-RS I just do machining as a hobby, and when I got my indexable milling cutter set I made the idiotic mistake of not checking whether or not they were proprietary 🤦🤦🤦
@@brianw179 Been there!! Ive got a garage machine shop (located in my livingroom), started with chinese tool holders for everything, some are still good. upgrading along the way makes the jobs more profitable. Got a nice proprietary junk drawer too :)
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ISCAR inserts last just as long as Kennametal at half the costs. I pay about $17 per insert, and the Iscar are about $9 a piece with better speeds and feeds than Kennametal.
Totally agree
@@evilgoatgarage4193 bro has the audacity to tell something else is better than Kennametal
under a Titans of CNC video 💀💀💀
I've been using Kyocera, Iscar and Ceratizit inserts for a long time and all have proven to be much much more resistant to wear than Kennametal aswell as being able to push better speeds and feeds.
I have found you need to try every brand , sometimes the cheapest performs the best. It really just depends on the application. And sometimes the machine. I’ve had the same job on two different machines run two different inserts. Both ran about the same life in opposite machines. But if you put the wrong insert in the wrong machine it cut life in half. Testing every thing is the only way* to know.
Lol iscar is nothing compared to seco and sandvik
I originally started out as a lathe machinist, and learning all the new insert codes styles has really been the bane of my existence, and it’s gotten so complicated, since multiple brands change their code system , vs milling it’s mostly all the same .
I find those of Sandvik and Seco to be easiest to understand when it comes to the different shapes and their purposes.
Though I do admit, I don't have much experience at the moment.
At my current job, I use Seco, they have insets with very small nose radius which I need for the polymers that I machine.
"Hey grab me that iscar CCGT 32.51"
"The what?!?"
@@mattcyr3342 yup, that’s how sandvik labels their BS, everyone understands the ccgt, but they just love throwing random numbers in there, why can’t they just stick to the standard 432 or whatever, even in metric it still works but no lol different companies gotta fuck with us. Kennametal does it with their tools too
@@adammiller4879 I use the Sandvik coroturn bars, Try CXS-06T098-20-6215R 1025... Whats thats supposed to mean? Lol
@@mattcyr3342 exactly😂
I know little about machining steel but I do know those inserts you use are on another level..... absolutely amazing what they can do.wow.
From my own experience I know that turning in stainless steel causes the biggest problems and this is what you should take care of, I tested 2 options of sandvik and with 3 tungaloy, but only tungaloy for superalloys managed to get the hang of it
I have never really been impressed with tungaloy stuff. It seems like mitsubishi and seco always out perform
I love tungaloy on Stainless
Eu frequentemente uso os insertos da Iscar 04 para inox 304
I worked in a shop for the last year running Nitronic 50 and some inconel on a lathe and we had decent success with Walther CNMG 432 nrs (wsm01 grade) but it was the kind of shop that refused to buy things like through coolant tooling unless you had a scream fight with HR so I don’t work there anymore
Personally I prefer the Sumitomo CNMG tips, tested against Sandvik, Walter and Kennametal, with the same speeds and feeds on stainless just always get the Sumitomos chipping better and getting a better Surface finish with the VBMT
Tyson coming in with the 🔥🔥🔥 Awesome video, well done Corey!
This is a video we didn't know we needed. Thank you for this insightful information, Tyson!
Would be cool to see a stainless steel test on some inserts
Wow incredible shots in this video! Amazing camera work 💯
A video on turning inconel and explaining how to avoid work hardening would be great!
are you sure the smoke didnt come from oil on the surface? Maybe cutting with the same insert again to see if it smokes again
I doubt it, since he explained that he removed the outer layer before the test to give it an equal playing field.
@@neovenom7187 I thought this aswell but could be they cut with coolant to removing the milscale and there was some left over residual cutting fluid when doing the first test cut. Then the heat vaporized any remaining coolant so second test cut had nothing to vaporize?
Would be better to flip the workpiece to do the same cut when testing or only cut halfway with each tool. First insert cut more material because of the larger diameter.
The lathe changes the RPM to keep the speed the same.... and the depth of cut on both was .100". The MRR was the exact same on both cuts, the only thing that was reduced was cycle time.
YG inserts for $3.5 an insert USD. Works great for low carbon steel 1018-1025. Thousand + cuts @ similar feeds to what was run in this video here. Saving lots of cheddar with those bad boys
Nice comparison Tyson👏 Some of those shots are CRISP 🍏
Sandvik Prime turning is where its at for high metal removal rates.
I love sandvik, it’s too bad they aren’t allowed to show them, sandvik makes some of the best inserts in the world, every company has something it’s good at, I think kennametal is better with drills
Their U-drills are awesome. Cam drills I seems to struggle with on stainless any luck?
Informative, more then a commercial.
Pretty conservative feed rate. We use a different product, but cut much faster and are still reasonably conservative within the suggested parameters. Similar material also (4150qtsr)
Japanese and German tools are the best for turning and milling on turning centers : Walter,Schuman,Sumitomo carbide inserts are the top. Iscar and Kennametal are superior for grooving and drilling on all materials. And don't forget Sandvik Coromant, a bit higher for prices but ever a world leaders on the tooling equipment
We use for turning Sandvik Coromant and for grooving, parting and boring 3 Japanese brands, Kyocera, Mitsubishi Carbide and Big Kaiser/Big Daishowa, all very good brands, back in the days we had Hertel, Seco Tools etc. also good stuff.
I presonally really like kennametal inserts, but Iscar and Sandvik are also very good insert brands, especially Sandviks. I just have more experience with Kennametal and Sandvik Inserts.
Hello guys I'm a huge fan I watch all the time. I am a rank amateur at machining and I was just wondering what cutters you would recommend for not so good machines?
Should really explain the differences in coatings. Both will cut and help tool life, but they're both better in different applications. PVD requires far less heat than CVD and offers a tougher coating, while CVD requires higher temps and is much better for stable and uninterrupted cuts. Obviously much more goes into it than that, but thats a baseline when deciding between the 2. I also run Kennametal inserts and run much faster and hard than that. Also why run a CNMG? WNMG offers the exact same geometry with a far cheaper cost per edge with 0 difference in performance....
These Kennametal adverts are interesting.
Id love that titans come to EU and make a division here... Pls do it!?
Right? The american measurements confuse me and i dont have a clue what i am looking at
@@klemwzo the metric ones are literally right below
@@bradhazard4118 not when it comes to working with solidworks
Loved it performance!
I’m running 516 70 and 517 70. What would you recommend for an insert to use? 26 inch diameter with 450 sfm. .100 depth of cut and feed of .012. I can’t find an insert to last
When you list the material, you really need to state the heat treatment specs for material hardness and toughness or if it is annealed material.
Beautiful
Lets see a Sandvik 4425 go up against the kcp25c
Some of these inserts are 30 plus dollars in Australia.
Second insert started to notch at depth of cut.
how long does one insert typically last?
Most impressive with no coolant
The depth of cut the feed rate and the cutting speed where all kind of low
best insert for 304 stainless?
Not kennametal
Does anyone have suggestions for turning Titanium🤔?
There's specific grades for titanium but inserts for steel can do it too. As a rough starting point, titanium will need to run at 50% SFM of stainless. Try to find out who your local SECO sales rep is, they'll tell you what to use and who can supply it for you locally
@@WCGwkf ASTM F136. I'll have to investigate because the place where I last got inserts had no clue on what to use. They seem more tailored to regular machine work😒. Thanx for the input.
is that like a capto C5 spindle?
It’s a Capto C6 spindle :)
@@gerrit2107 would love a little tech overview of the spindle connections systems. cat/SK, BT, BMT, capto, HSK, big plus, KM. application wise what strengths and weaknesses are
@@leonschumann2361 I think they did something like that a while back, but in my opinion it was a bit incomplete.
Seems like a useless test. Any insert should hold up well on a five inch length of cut. Also wouldn't you normally use coolant?
I understand the visibility issue but the results of the test are looking at the insert afterwards. We don't really need a clear view of the machining.@@Roberty98
Ya you'd think with the funds these guys seem to have they could at least run a proper test where they run the inserts to failure and you actually learn something. No one really learned anything from the actual "test" they did in the video.
man I can barely afford a single set of milling inserts
Do you run a machine shop? Inserts should be a very low cost item vs other things. Quote them into the job and make the job go faster.
Other brands exist beyond Kennametal. Kennametal seems to be turning into the Apple of CNC.
@@Gurziak If Kennametal costs twice as much and lasts 3x longer, i think its still a value worth buying. I can buy cheap chinese carbide endmills all day long that get smoked first use, while my 10 year old HSS local ground cutter keeps going. Not saying HSS is better than carbide, but quality vs price is a big factor.
I have some Kennametal carbide endmills, and they do take a beating way more than any other ive used.
@@Mikkel-RS I just do machining as a hobby, and when I got my indexable milling cutter set I made the idiotic mistake of not checking whether or not they were proprietary 🤦🤦🤦
@@brianw179 Been there!! Ive got a garage machine shop (located in my livingroom), started with chinese tool holders for everything, some are still good. upgrading along the way makes the jobs more profitable. Got a nice proprietary junk drawer too :)
Even Sandvik Coromant is far better than Kennametal.
Im seeing your video in 2016
Whats the concept of running annoying music WHILE Tyson is talking? Would have been excellent production otherwise.