Video idea Titan Team - Can you do a video showing when you change inserts. Example, using this mill at what point would you change the inserts, please do a close up on the inserts so we can learn from you. In the same video show what tool you would use for finishing and how you do it, example stock to leave speeds and feeds to include when you would change inserts on the finishing mill. I am new to machining, and I don't know what right looks like. For now, when my insert chips I change it but do you guys do the same?
It’s all to do with the material being machined, the load on the spindle/machine and how bad the insert is machining in general, but usually if the insert is damaged it’d be good to change them out
As a tech rep for a major carbide company you want your change them when a few thing happen. 1-flank wear on the bottom & sides. Especially if the coating is gone. 2-As he said your spindle load rises say from 70% to 80% 3-the part finish starts to go bad. 4-sparking can also be a sign to stop and change them. There are some general rules but sight is the best. Checking the insert wear periodically. Alloy Steels generally 45 mins Or more. Stainless might be 15-20 mins Nickel base alloys 8-10 mins But inserts and coating are getting better and better, so wear is something you need to watch. Hope that helps!
I am in a prototype shop running 1s and 2s so there’s times I use the same inserts for months. I always just use my fingernail to check if they’re sharp. If it doesn’t shave cleanly I change them
There are some applications that you actually want a not so fresh insert. I used to keep a box of inserts, which I had purposely stoned the edge of, for just those occasions. We had a part that required a 7 finish AND we had to track the walk of weighted dental floss on the spinning part for 60 seconds. The only way to get the finish requirements and keep the walk within tolerance, was to use slightly dull tooling.
@@OneTruePhreak I agree, we called that the “edge-prep” we offered a number of inserts and tools with various edge prep. From almost dead sharp, to 3 other styles depending on the material.
Great video Jessie! Would love to a see a video on how you calculate how hard to push the machine with certain tools depending on the hp and torque your machine has
We’ve tested a very similar tool at my work and we love it! It’s super good for roughing and is surprisingly good at finishing. It leaves a really good finish and lasts a lot longer than other cutters
Which 80s catch phrase perfectly encapsulates how I felt after watching this video? I'm torn between: The More You Know and Knowing is Half the Battle...
What about a 1/8" thick hat top on a smaller part. I LOVE this cutter for bigger parts, but I find the inserts dont last long on smaller pieces that dont dampen the vibration as much. I alo noticed, that if i run this with a facing toolpath 1/8" deep the inserts last way longer than if I try an adaptive cut where the pressure direction is changing. I always run it with thru spindle coolant on 304/316ss
Probably a noob comment, but isn't a mill insert always in an "interrupted cut"? the insert goes in and out of the material either way right? So why is a mill pass over e.g. a hole or slot so much worse?
@Jesse Could you use a HARVI TE endmill for the boss/contour feature on the right side of the part too using as much flute as possible? Is there a video on tool selection based on unique features? Is tool selection all based on experience + what you have + what tools are in the budget? How do you come up with parts to showcase the capacities of these tools? These tangential cutters are cool.
It’s not a real comparison. Try both these tool to ramp into material or slot and you will see that 1-14 will win. Also try to run both these tool on old Haas and positive inserts of 1-14 will push on spindle much less than negative tangential inserts.
Do a comparison on kennametals new 8 flute endmill ruffing steel vs the harvi 1 .5 x dia step over ruffing steel. Show the difference in high speed perimeter milling vs high step over milling
Jesse, you mention that running your facemill without coolant is torture testing your face mill. However whenever I run stainless, including 316L. I run into premature insert failure due to thermal cracking especially with hi-feed. If we run dry or with just airblast we have far less problems. Do you have any tips or suggestions?
On one of our lathes haas hl4 we run nothing but black pipe with nasty mill scale and a big ol weld bead and its insane how often we are flipping inserts
Totally ! We use them alot with the cnmg and we coordinate with Kennemetal and MSc but still just blow through them, getting better everyday but nothing compared to anything other than pipe with a weld seam , we mostly barb groove and thread the pipe
Wouldn't it be better to do it oposite way? Tool on right side of material ( sorry - missing vocabulary ). When i was milling big, i always used RR instead RL ( used circle inserts on 66mm mill and 6mm depth on steel )
DUH....They dont even machine anymore. They said that in a video awhile back. They said they were gonna concentrate on the learning academy. So all these videos they are getting paid from these manufacturers to market their products for them. That's why there is never anyone around and everything looks perfect all the time.
@@bobsbillets learning how to optimize tool cost (to who?) :D Normally coolant is not used, and conditions looks pretty optimal. And he says opposite on video. How is this even good to tool manufacturer. :D
Yeah that's a killer deal Kennametal has on right now. Buy 10 inserts and get the body for free - Heck yah - take full advantage of deals like this! The Cost Savings are HUGE for a premium product!
Nothing in this world is perfect nor this tangential cutter Tell some disadvantages of the thing you are promoting. For me I think 1. The cutter has only 1 or max 2 index per insert. 2. Not good for finishing as edge sharpness is not great 3. May take more power from spindle to run.
coolant on a indexable mill in steel? sounds like not verry good idea. because of the heat the tool generates during cut and get shock cooled, when it leaves the material. your inserts will get crackes from that. way erlier they would wear out than if you are using just air
Video idea Titan Team - Can you do a video showing when you change inserts. Example, using this mill at what point would you change the inserts, please do a close up on the inserts so we can learn from you. In the same video show what tool you would use for finishing and how you do it, example stock to leave speeds and feeds to include when you would change inserts on the finishing mill. I am new to machining, and I don't know what right looks like. For now, when my insert chips I change it but do you guys do the same?
It’s all to do with the material being machined, the load on the spindle/machine and how bad the insert is machining in general, but usually if the insert is damaged it’d be good to change them out
As a tech rep for a major carbide company you want your change them when a few thing happen.
1-flank wear on the bottom & sides. Especially if the coating is gone.
2-As he said your spindle load rises say from 70% to 80%
3-the part finish starts to go bad.
4-sparking can also be a sign to stop and change them.
There are some general rules but sight is the best. Checking the insert wear periodically.
Alloy Steels generally 45 mins
Or more.
Stainless might be 15-20 mins
Nickel base alloys 8-10 mins
But inserts and coating are getting better and better, so wear is something you need to watch.
Hope that helps!
I am in a prototype shop running 1s and 2s so there’s times I use the same inserts for months. I always just use my fingernail to check if they’re sharp. If it doesn’t shave cleanly I change them
There are some applications that you actually want a not so fresh insert. I used to keep a box of inserts, which I had purposely stoned the edge of, for just those occasions. We had a part that required a 7 finish AND we had to track the walk of weighted dental floss on the spinning part for 60 seconds. The only way to get the finish requirements and keep the walk within tolerance, was to use slightly dull tooling.
@@OneTruePhreak I agree, we called that the “edge-prep” we offered a number of inserts and tools with various edge prep. From almost dead sharp, to 3 other styles depending on the material.
Great video Jessie!
Would love to a see a video on how you calculate how hard to push the machine with certain tools depending on the hp and torque your machine has
We’ve tested a very similar tool at my work and we love it! It’s super good for roughing and is surprisingly good at finishing. It leaves a really good finish and lasts a lot longer than other cutters
Love it. And I would love to see some more information with high feed indexable tooling types.
Thank you for the invaluable resource, Jessie! This is a great video to add to the "saved" list for future reference.
Super solid video bro! Lots of great info for different use cases.
Man this was all GREAT information Jessie! Thanks amigo!
We need so many more videos like this! Thank you for the explanation team, this is invaluable ❤
Jessie, great job explaining everything.
love the comparison vid👍
I've been using the Mitsubishi one for a few years, a great tool
Great Video Jessie!
I liked the video but how do you find it on the store?
Very informative. Thanks for the free lessons as always guys!!
Thanks for the very informative video! Love that the tool is on sale too!
Jesse has the best videos.
Jessie droppin' knowledge!!
Which 80s catch phrase perfectly encapsulates how I felt after watching this video? I'm torn between: The More You Know and Knowing is Half the Battle...
Knowing is half the battle.
For sure.
Absolutely yes more!!!!!!
Always satisfying cuts! Boss inserts😎
What about a 1/8" thick hat top on a smaller part. I LOVE this cutter for bigger parts, but I find the inserts dont last long on smaller pieces that dont dampen the vibration as much.
I alo noticed, that if i run this with a facing toolpath 1/8" deep the inserts last way longer than if I try an adaptive cut where the pressure direction is changing. I always run it with thru spindle coolant on 304/316ss
Probably a noob comment, but isn't a mill insert always in an "interrupted cut"? the insert goes in and out of the material either way right? So why is a mill pass over e.g. a hole or slot so much worse?
I'm guessing multiplying entries in addition to shallower angles/stepovers of those entries.
@Jesse Could you use a HARVI TE endmill for the boss/contour feature on the right side of the part too using as much flute as possible? Is there a video on tool selection based on unique features? Is tool selection all based on experience + what you have + what tools are in the budget? How do you come up with parts to showcase the capacities of these tools? These tangential cutters are cool.
It’s not a real comparison.
Try both these tool to ramp into material or slot and you will see that 1-14 will win. Also try to run both these tool on old Haas and positive inserts of 1-14 will push on spindle much less than negative tangential inserts.
are the links in the Titans store corrupt for anyone else??
Jessie can you run this on a Tormach MX with BT30 or would the HP/Torq requirements be to high.
Which one would be best for the robodrill?
Cool promo and a very impressive tool!
For some reason I get this feeling they have a 60% off sale on their website.
I wonder where i could a discount on those
Do a comparison on kennametals new 8 flute endmill ruffing steel vs the harvi 1 .5 x dia step over ruffing steel. Show the difference in high speed perimeter milling vs high step over milling
can you do a video on milling some SPM450V hardened to higher than 56HRC?
It's all in the manufacturing engineering! 😅
Jesse, you mention that running your facemill without coolant is torture testing your face mill. However whenever I run stainless, including 316L. I run into premature insert failure due to thermal cracking especially with hi-feed. If we run dry or with just airblast we have far less problems. Do you have any tips or suggestions?
do you have through tool coolant or flood only?
We have Hi-pressure thru coolant and full high volume
flood coolant.@@JustinKeller5719
Maybe dumb question but do the have DIN 2080 Sk30 as a tool holder?
On one of our lathes haas hl4 we run nothing but black pipe with nasty mill scale and a big ol weld bead and its insane how often we are flipping inserts
Have you tried round inserts?
Totally ! We use them alot with the cnmg and we coordinate with Kennemetal and MSc but still just blow through them, getting better everyday but nothing compared to anything other than pipe with a weld seam , we mostly barb groove and thread the pipe
YASSSSSS TORQUE CURVES!
Iscar copy that's been out for almost 20 years. Good way to stay on top of things!😂
It would better to show both mills in action when doing the interrupted cut. That way people can see and hear the difference.
Wouldn't it be better to do it oposite way? Tool on right side of material ( sorry - missing vocabulary ). When i was milling big, i always used RR instead RL ( used circle inserts on 66mm mill and 6mm depth on steel )
No, you should climb cut.
That’s a lot of great information 💪 and it’s free? W the purchase of 10 inserts?? Dayyyng
This whole video felt like an ad.
DUH....They dont even machine anymore. They said that in a video awhile back. They said they were gonna concentrate on the learning academy. So all these videos they are getting paid from these manufacturers to market their products for them. That's why there is never anyone around and everything looks perfect all the time.
@@bobsbillets learning how to optimize tool cost (to who?) :D
Normally coolant is not used, and conditions looks pretty optimal. And he says opposite on video. How is this even good to tool manufacturer. :D
Will you shill any other tool brand
304ss slow spindle and same feed as HSS
👍
Sandvik, I prefer
Awesome video Jessie! Lets murder material! 🤣
i'd love to see more 304 milling cuz i hate that material haha
How do you feel about 440C and V10 or other vanadis 'species'? How about heat treated 64HRc 440C and heat treated V10?
@@TomaszWinnicki never milled that so can’t say
fucking deep climbmilling get the chip stuck between the wall and the tool destroying the insert. need to go in steps, save inserts
Yeah that's a killer deal Kennametal has on right now. Buy 10 inserts and get the body for free - Heck yah - take full advantage of deals like this! The Cost Savings are HUGE for a premium product!
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏😇😇😇😇😇😇
Instead of running dry at least use a mister
Nothing in this world is perfect nor this tangential cutter
Tell some disadvantages of the thing you are promoting.
For me I think
1. The cutter has only 1 or max 2 index per insert.
2. Not good for finishing as edge sharpness is not great
3. May take more power from spindle to run.
thats an ad.
Imperial system. Lol. How about catering for the rest of the world using the proper metric system. Sigh. Wanna buy a Doosan Puma. But now i dunno😢
coolant on a indexable mill in steel? sounds like not verry good idea. because of the heat the tool generates during cut and get shock cooled, when it leaves the material. your inserts will get crackes from that. way erlier they would wear out than if you are using just air
Cut some 440C and V10. Do a closeup photo of the cutting edges before and after.