I say again, this channel is awesome. I had to change my hub & bearing today. Every single step was perfectly explained. Nothing EVER went so smoothly for me! Thank you.
Much thanks for this excellent tutorial. One of the best videos I have ever seen on the net. Ford wanted $785 to replace my left front hub assembly. With a dealer discount from a friend at an auto parts store, I did the job myself for about $150 total. Every step in the video was right on and very helpful. Explorer rides very quiet now.
Well done. I’m 60 and have been wrenching (professionally for 18) since I was 8 years old. Your video was concise, to the point and you paid attention the the details. KUDOS!
I just did this job on my 2008 Explorer Sport Trac (2wd) following your procedure. Used the Motorcraft hubs and it took me about an hour. I spent $400 on the hubs, and think this job at the dealership would have been $1000 easy. Turns out only the driver side bearing was bad but with 152k miles I replaced both sides, as I think suspension pieces in pairs is good practice. Thanks Brian.
This is probably one of the best repair videos I have ever seen. Great job, great viewing angles, great descriptions, etc. Thank you very much for your efforts on this.
I just have to say thanks!! The job went exactly as you show in the video, no trouble, job done, noise gone. The first side took me about two hours, the second side half that. Considering this vehicle calls Hawaii island home, local mechanics were quoting $1200 and up to do the job. Total cost was under $400 with shipping and a couple new tools for my kit. Used the Timken parts (pt# HA590156) and was not surprised to find that the original OEM bearings I was taking off were Timken.
You Sir are a Gentleman and a Scholar! This video helped me get my wife's Explorer back on the road. I had a few scary moments removing the hub bolts but a liberal application of penetrating oil and some patience saw me through. Thanks!
Wow. A shop wanted to charge me a $1k to install a set. That's not a lot of money but I got a lot of other bills piled up. I followed your advice. Thank you. Salute to you sir with both hands.
Great video; couple of comments: the front axle nut on a 2003 Ford explorer is 31mm not 32. Use a hub puller, I got one at Auto zone for $25 (or you can rent it from them) it made a huge difference. The hub assy nuts were a bear to access even after pushing the axle back, had to use a short 15mm socket; the long one wouldn't work. Make sure you have a breaker bar or cheater. It took me 6 hrs which included two trips to the store and a lot of patience. Thanks FordTechMakuloco; you saved me a ton of cash and the install was a success. BRAVO! (PS - Don't forget to use well made hubs and... plug in the new sensor)
I have a 98 AWD Explorer that was badly in need of replacing both front hub assemblies. I had to turn the radio up loud so I could hear it over the noise. I watched what ever videos I could find on the subject. Yours was far and away the best. The video and sound were excellent. The instructions were spot on. I especially appreciated your giving the socket sizes and torque specs. I replaced both this weekend in about 5 hours. The only problem I ran into was finding that one of the ABS wires had a slit in the insulation and I had to reuse the factory sensor. I'll swap in a new one at some point. I didn't want to wait for a replacement. That leads me to my one suggestion. Although it might be common sense, I would advise people not to cut the ABS sensor wire until you've inspected the new one. Thanks for the help! I will be checking out the rest of your videos.
This is professional. Good clear video, clear audio and good narration. I had to play and replay this on my laptop in my garage alongside my DIY hub replacement. You deserve all the good ratings.
Thank you thank you thank you for this super important video. We've been trying to get by on one paycheck and car repairs have come back into my court....the missus got a job, major commute. The assembly was loud and worn! I watched your vid like 10 times and in 1.5 careful hours with zero pneumatics, we were ready to roll in silence. Thanks! You're a great teacher
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Your part reference plus guidance saved me $435. Had to beat on the hub a lot to get it to loosen up but finally got it. Took me about 40 minutes.
Thanks for helping me replace the hubs on my Ranger. The bearings sounded like that squeaky wheel on shopping carts. So far you've helped me do lower ball joints and front hubs. Thanks for the videos, they are thorough and a great help.
Thanks for saving me a bundle of money! Just did the passenger side of my truck and what a difference it made. Now it doesn't sound like a monster truck anymore. FYI I picked up two hub assemblies on ebay from American Axle in MI for $93.00 delivered to my door.
Great video! I followed all the steps and replaced the hub.. Noise was still there so I returned the hub and the parts guy was good enough to give me another one … Installed it and still had the noise when driving.. when sitting it spins smoothly and has just a slight noise from the brake pads … ISO I replaced the cv axel …lol…noise is still there!…. Also checked the fluid level in the front differential….any ideas would be great !
Very helpful. Was able to do this using just this video. As with every job, the right tools are essential. A BIG HAMMER makes all the difference. If you can't knock the hub and bearing loose get a bigger hammer. Passenger side took me a full day - was stuck without transportation and had to use a household hammer. Driver side was a matter of a few hours just because of a bigger hammer to knock the hub/bearing loose. Also had to put the rotor and brake caliper back on so I could jam a screw driver between the rotor and caliper to keep the axel from spinning so I could loosen and then later tighten the 32mm axel nut. Like I said I'm using basic toolbox tools to get my job done. Not ideal but it can be done. Would have spent hundreds at the shop if I didn't have this video. Many thanks.
Just followed your instruction on changing the wheel bearing and hub assembly on my 02 Ford Explorer. I got the job done! BTW, my axle nut was not 32mm, I used a 1 3/16 socket, but it was more likely a 1 1/8, just an FYI. This video was outstanding and helped a lot.
Thanks for the great video. I replaced diff and transfer case fluids first as they needed doing anyway; replacing the bearing this weekend hoping to stop the noise.
I'm with TurboChargedDad, I'd be going nuts not cleaning the bolts first. I bought a very good 03 Explorer 4.0 SOHC for $400 that has the two most tortured front CV joints in existence that have not yet broken. That is what brought me to this video, especially since seeing some of your other vids. Your experience and training is quite obvious and comes through on video very clearly. Great detail, nothing unnecessary included, good enough with the video that I saw everything that mattered. Keep it up, but I sure wish you would do more of the traditional Fords. Pre-modular era is what I use generally. I try to stay to 87 - 96 F-series trucks with straight six or 460 HEAVILY preferred, any Ranger preferring the simplicity of the 4.0 OHV V6, and the 2.3 Pinto engine versions. Help out us old farts with our "real" Ford trucks. And if you ever decide to do some Mark I or Mark II Capri, or Merkur repairs I'll be watching them intently also. lol Just out of curiosity, do you know if there was there any reason, real or imagined, why they dropped the F150's 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern that was used since the Model T era.? I had a 26 Model T on a Model A frame with wire wheels using the same bolt pattern. The only problem was they were 17 inch as I recall. I may be mistaken on the tire size, but correct size tires were hard to find. Same question regarding seven lug wheels. I can only imagine it was just an April Fool's Day prank that got out of hand. They really need to keep the accountants out of the design and planning stages. No accountant should be allowed to speak in an auto manufacturing facility (or ANY production facility) until the assembly lines are rolling ! As I understand it, the reason why the 64 Mustang never got IRS from day one, was because the accountants said we would not know the difference,. I would know, I am sure you would too ! Leave engineering to the engineers !!!
Fantastic. 03 Explorer has ABS light on and just started to grind on passenger front side. Dealer service advised this exact fix. Will be doing it myself and save money thanks to your efforts. Thank you.
Great video. Clear and concise. If i could offer a suggestion. Instead of hammering on the back of the hub you can use a 1/2 inch or even a 1 inch square stock (I used about an 8 inch one) and you start the car (careful you do not press the brake pedal (if you do need to press it you can put a C-clamp on the caliper to keep it in place,) then use the power steering pump to pop the hub off. Be careful the bar doesn't come loose. I just reached in through the window and rocked the steering wheel so I could watch the progress. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for the excellent video. I replaced the left front hub on a 06 Ford Explorer 4WD and the video was very helpful. Just a couple of notes. If you don't have a lift and air tools it can be helpful to break the hub nut with the wheel on the ground, or if on floor jacks insert a steel rod or big breaker bar in between the wheel studs to prevent rotation (doesn't hurt if the stud threads are marred as they are replaced anyway. Also, my hub nut was not 32mm it was 1 1/4". Thanks again for a great job with the video.
Great video...Thanks for posting it. I have a 2003 Explorer Limited AWD with the 4.6L V8, and it uses a 29 mm for the axle bolt. Also, I used an offset box wrench to help with the bolts that hold the hub on because apparently my dexterity isn't quite good enough to effectively use the socket / impact wrench as you recommended. Otherwise, this was quite helpful. Thanks again.
I just want to thank you for an excellent video. I just finished changing out both of my 2007 Ford Explorer Front Wheel Bearing hub assemblies. Took me 3 hours for both. The learning curve was teaching my son to use the explorer tire jack. He is 15 and needed to learn how to change a tire. Worked out excellent! Installed Timkins. I was wondering if you have a video for changing 2007 Ford Explorer brakes. They are not needed now but would like to attempt in the future. Thanks again for an excellent video. Saved me anywhere between $275- $575 depending on repair shop.
Good to hear it all worked out! I do not have a video on explorer brakes yet...... but they are actually really simple nothing special. If I have one in the future I will definitely film it for the site.
Thank you for posting this! I appreciate the hammering tips. I did the driver side on a 2009 Explorer 2WD today. Mine was somewhat less stubborn to remove. Took less than an hour including brake hardware removal and assembly. Removing the brake dust shield is key to pulling this off IMO. Looking forward to the passenger side tomorrow. :-D
Incredible, clean work. Having an ABS issue and now I know there's no possible way for me to do it myself (lack of garage and proper tools) have to take it in, wonder how much that will cost. Thank you for the video 👍
driver-side hub just died... 100,000km and both hubs go within 4 months of each other. also replaced the tie-rods too as one had a rip in the rubber cover thingie. once again BIG thanks for the videos :)
Brian, in addition to the great how-to information, your production quality is excellent. Many TH-cam videos are hard to understand the audio and hard to follow the video. Great Job!
Great video. Very detailed and informative. Have an 06 Aviator with an ABS light. Had a shop do the work because something had to be programmed due to a part being changed. Could you reference when this is required in a future video?
Thank you for your help! I’m doing mine tomorrow and I subscribed a while back, I hope people know that they are getting the quality work you do on their Fords! Thanks again!
I'm not a mechanic but watching your video I've learned a lot and has save me lots money i feel like I'm a FordTechMakuloco student ...LOL. I have a 2002 ford explorer V8 XLT I been slowly doing some custom work to it,in three years I got my rear wheel hub assembly done twice at a mechanic shop i order the rear assembly from Timken i would like to put them on my self any video that you recommend or suggestions ?
That is the idea, people tell me I should go teach. It would be best to pull off the knuckle assy with bearing like we do then bring the knuckle in to the Ford Dealer to have them press it out. We have a special adapter we use otherwise it is a real pain. A press is a must. That is one my most requested videos and as soon as I get one in I will shoot it.
FordTechMakuloco - I'm confused by the torque recommendation for the axle nut. You say 185 ft-lbs but the Ford workshop manual (for 2006 4.6L 3V) lists 148 ft-lbs. Want to make sure to get this correct as you pointed out the bearing pre-load concerns.
The best I've seen this far. Good narrative and photography. My 2002 Ford XLT 4 X 4 has growling in front and back. When underway the front changes with steering. When traveling slow, backing and turning I get chatter. What should I anticipate paying to have all four wheel bearings replaced?
I've watched your video for the 2002 hub bearing replacement I'm not an automotive specialist but I'm convinced that I can do this at my local auto hobby shop where I have access to all the tools lifts and equipment and if I get stuck there are specialist who offer assistance thanks for the video and instructions.
Great video! I used it to replace passenger side hub bearing assembly on a 2007 Ford Sport Trac. The only problem is now the ABS and Traction Control lights won't go off. I tried all the suggestions on You Tube to turn them off with no luck. What would you suggest?
Another great video. I am really enjoying all of the videos you have been posting recently. Please make as many as you can! As an owner of a 2006 Mark LT I love all of the tips and tricks you are showing to get these jobs done!
Thanks for the video - this helped a lot. Just finished replacing the hubs on a 2010 Explorer with 69k miles. Getting the hub off required a sledge hammer ;-) but other than that the job was smooth. The annoying whine and vibration I could feel in the steering wheel is now completely gone. I used Timken hubs and am hoping this is a job I don't have to do again. Thanks again for the great video.
Great video. Finally a video where you have to pound/scrape and sand. I noticed the F250 has blue thread lock on pretty much everything around the brakes. Is this normal/factory?
Great video! I already did this about 3 years ago but I see a couple shortcuts for the next time. (I'm sure I'll have a next time because I didn't use a Timken replacement bearing) I disassembled the brake caliper not realizing I could have just removed the entire assembly.
Yes there will likely be a next time on these trucks. I have seen aftermarket bearings last 5k miles, the company warrantied it but who want's to install a new bearing every 5k so we only use Ford and have never had a problem with them.
Great video! I plan to replace both of the front Wheel Bearing Hub assemblies this weekend on my 07 Ford Explorer 2wd Eddie Baurer V8 with 96k. The front passenger is starting to growl and the front driver I suspect will not be far behind. One question... I watched this video and the video that replaced it. In the original portrait video the caliper and the wheel hub torque values were mentioned at 85 ftlb's. In this video the hub is mentioned at 90 ft lbs and the caliper is mentioned at 125 ftlbs. What are the corrrect torque for the caliper and wheel hub bolts?
This one applies to your vehicle, starting in 2006 they beefed up everything on the explorers and along with that came higher torque values. The old video was like a 2004 Explorer and this one was a 2006. So use the torque values in the description.
Outstanding Video! Thanks! I have an 02 with a bad left front bearing. This makes it easier. I also have to put a fuel pump in my 02 explorer. Any advice or know where i can get some info on installing a replacement fuel pump?
FordTechMakuloco Well, turns out it wasn't the fuel pump after all (probably didn't hurt to replace it since it has 179k on it). The computer isn't turning on the pump for some reason. It's not the relay. There is no signal from the PCM to turn on the relay. I can start the start the engine by essentially hot wiring the the pump so I know everything after the relay is working. Is it possible that there is something wrong with the PCM or is it a PATS issue?
GREAT VIDEO!!! By the the best and most informative repair video I have seen on the internet! It covered 100% of everything I needed to know. Thank you also so the sizes of sockets and such! Keep up the great videos my friend!
I have a grinding sound in my front axle in my ford explorer 2009 4x4 limited edidion , I think it comes from the wheel hub bearings , the thing is I can't tell from which side is , Is there is a way to know it? if so please bring me light on it , thank you this video is very accurate , detailed and useful in how to change the hub bearings...
Absolutely love the info and videos, have a question, 2014 Ford Explorer, have a rubbing/grinding sound from the front end. Thought it was the hub/bearing, replaced that, replaced both brake rotors and still have the noise. noise increases or decrease with the speed of the axle, question is how do I determine if the axles are bad, which one to replace. Don't have access to a lift, trying to do the best I can. PTU is not leaking, don't believe that is the problem. appreciate the help
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! I feel confident I can handle the front hubs on my 2005 Explorer 4x4 thanks to the attention to detail in your video. I'd love to see a video of the rear hubs done. I believe I have one hub on each end that needs to be replaced, so I may as well do all 4. Do you recommend Motorcraft parts? If so, I'll swing by my local Ford dealer and grab them. For something as important as the wheel hubs, spending extra for OEM may not be a bad call.
Definitely get the Ford stuff for all four wheels. I do have a rear bearing video coming out and I do show the pressing but the video may only be useful to instruct how to get it out as the press tools are special tools.
Thanks for the video, I used it to replace the front bearing assemblies on a 2006 Explorer I just purchased. A couple of repair shops quotes were astronomical, so I decided to order the front assemblies and rear bearing and hubs and do them all myself, all four wheels. I just removed the driver rear knuckle. I'm going to get quotes from a few machines shops on the bearing and hub installation. I read not to lower the vehicle before tightening the axle nut on the rear, that the weight of the vehicle will damage the unloaded bearing. I didn't read that when installing the front assemblies. I lowered the vehicle, then installed the axle nut on the fronts. I'm wondering if that damaged the front bearing assemblies?
Yes you should of tightened the nut up like I did in the video and do the final torque on the ground or by holding the brake in the air. You may of damaged the hub but I doubt it. As shown in my video the impact puts about 150 ft lbs of clamping torque already before the weight of the vehicle weight is put on it.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks, I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual, it didn't say anything about tightening the fronts before I applied the weight of the vehicle. I'll definitely torque the rears first. At least the fronts are easy to replace.
I replaced mine in the spring and it needs to be replaced again now. You made a comment about it going bad after 5000 miles if it is not tightened correctly. Assuming it is not just a bad bearing, what do I avoid the next time to not ruin this bearing?
I appreciate your video. I have a 2000 4x4 explorer..bought the hub and bearing replacement at auto zone..replaced it..and now my tire moves after I tightened everything and also my brakes are grinding while I test drive it..helppp
This is the best Hub & Bearing repair video on TH-cam. Period. Unbeatable quality! Thank you Sir! Question> What is the brand & model number of the torque wrench you used in this video? I found it comes with a flex head. Thank you
Yes it came out well for sure. The brand torque wrench is Matco not sure on the model but it is a 1/2" 25-250 ft lb flex head wrench. I am sure there is a new version of it by now.
This is an excellent video! I have a question, '07 Ford Explorer I am replacing the hubs and bearing every 30-35k miles. Is this typical or could there be some other problem in the front end (prior collision ect.)? All highway miles no off road. Again, great video. Now I can save labor costs and do it myself. Thanks!
Jay Thompson If they are anything but oem I would expect that mileage interval yes. Oem should last 60 easy. About the only thing that can kill an oem fast like that is improper install or oversized tires
Hi Brian, quick question...How come when you reinstalled the hub you did not put any sealant back on the flange face or grease the chamfered edge. Reason I ask is that I will be doing this exact same repair on my wife's 02 Explorer.
+Joe Correia That is a factory thing Ford does not call for it on service parts. I would put a light coat of anti seize on the chamfer after cleaning but no sealant.
Question - do you recommend applying some spline lube prior to installing the new hub? I imagine it isn't necessary if the shaft does not slide within the hub but am not sure - thanks! BTW - excellent video!
Good job! I have a 99 ford.explorer 2wd .....is mine the samething as yours? And what was the glue u put on axle nut. Tks...I have to do this to my car this weekend and I dont know much about cars
Excellent video,surfing the internet trying to troubleshoot a grinding noise in a 2006 Ford Explorer. Great step by step instructions and removal tips. thanks Bill F
FordTechMakuloco. I have a 2007 ford sport trac. I am finding all different torque specs for the axle nut and the hub bolts. The built date on my vehicle is 3-13-2006. Can you tell me what the correct torque specs are. Thanks. Also great video.
I used this video to do my 08 explorer 4 wheel drive and it worked great except I cut the cv boot on passenger side. Now I have to replace cv half shaft. Got a video for that process???
I agree with the others. This is a GREAT video, thanks for making it. My sons 07 Explorer AWD has a noise in the front when turning right (appears to be coming from the left side not 100% sure tho) It has 148,000 miles. It had the right front bearing replaced around 15,000 miles ago. It had a complete front differential rebuild at 100,000 miles. Bearings, seals plus the ring & pinion. I checked for play in the front hubs as your video suggests, however both sides are tight and there doesn't seem to be any roughness in the bearing as I rotate the tires. With the price of the hub assembly I wanted to get your opinion before I bought the left front bearing.
Great tips on proper method to break loose the rotor and hub, one thing, for those at home with hand wrench only, it might be better to break loose the axle nut with the wheel on ground. Good job!!
I did this job several months ago...thanks for the great video. Since that time, I frequently have issues where the explorer acts as if it is going into 4WD at low speeds when I'm turning hard (it's a 2003 Limited with push-button 4WD, so as I understand it, it acts similar to AWD unless I actually push the 4High or 4 low button). Any ideas?
Super Video with great detail! I find there's lots of FRONT hub RR videos... I however need a REAR hub RR video. Haven't found one for the REARS.. I'll be doing front and rears. Do you have one in the works on the REAR hub/bearing removal replacement? Many thanks in advance
Hi, I tried this on the weekend. Got all the bolts out but that hub would not budge. 2013 Explorer has 4 bolts instead of 3. I tried a sledge hammer. Tried tapping a wedge in. Tried a hub puller but didn't know who much pressure I could put on that drive shaft) I even grinded a notch with an angle grinder at the base where it meets in the hub to see if I could get a pry bar leverage. Thing would NOT move! Should I put the rotor on and bang that with a hammer? Is there a spreader tool that works? Can I push it out from behind somehow? It is stuck, stuck stuck.
Is the bearing sealed inside the hub assembly in an AWD 2000 Ford Explorer? The assembly is around 70.00 but I see the bearing on sale some places for 25.00 Most auto parts stores don't sell the individual bearing for the front hubs, so I was wondering if that indicated it was a sealed unit. Thanks for an informative video.
Great work! My abs light has recently co me on and my 4x4 high light as well. The brakes kick in periodically every 10feet or so for the first few yards and then my adv. Trac turns off and 4x4 high light clears but info center displays "check adv. trac" . I was told its probably my transfer case shift motor but then I seen your video. Can you please advise me on where I should go from here as my funds are limited and I don't wanna start chasing rabbits. Thank you very much!
CQNikAhiii Get the codes read, you likely have a faulty rear diff speed sensor causing this and this will turn on the advance trac and 4x4 light because the 4x4 module relies on speed info from the abs module which is seeing a speed sensor fault so it disables both. Getting the codes read is your first step to saving money.
Have you seen wheel bearings as an issue in the 2011-2015 explorers? I have a 2011 with 61k and already think I have a left rear bearings going. I'm going to rotate the tire to make sure it's not old tires/tread wear issue. Also where are you getting all your torque specs from? Is there an easy way for the shade tree mechanic to access those?
+Kevin Mason I have never seen any bearing issues on the newer explorers as of yet. I get my torque specs from the technicians site on fmcdealer but you can use alldata diy
+FordTechMakuloco Hello. I have a Explorer Sport 2001. When a turn the right wheel turn left there is a sound when you broken nuts. and when I runs the truck and fall in hole I hear the sound too. you think that is a Hub Wheel or Axcel Joint? thanks.
I would like to say this was a very good video. Just changed out both of my front wheel hub assembly. I also replaced both of my front calipers and brackets. They where in very bad shape. Now I'm having problems with my brake pedal. I bled the front and rear and still the pedal goes down to the floor. Can you tell me how to bleed the brakes and due I have to open the abs valve?
Okay so I took my vehicle to the shop and they said my master cylinder Is bad. I'm going to bench bleed it first then install it. After it is installed do I bleed the whole brake system?
Great video, Thank you.. My 03 sport trac is giving me the ABS shutter and the tires look to be a little out of camber. It has 190K so I think I will try the new bearings.
15:54 ?? so what in the case of using fwd/4wd front hubs in a 2wd application? I have never seen a design where the bearing depends on the presence of a cv outboard for clamping load.I'm gonna call "creative language" on that one.
If you get the wheel off the ground and their isn't any play, what alternatives c.ould cause that noise? I don't see any boot grease around the joints either. Thanks
I say again, this channel is awesome. I had to change my hub & bearing today. Every single step was perfectly explained. Nothing EVER went so smoothly for me! Thank you.
Yeah it takes him 20 minutes takes me 2 hours lmao 🤣
Much thanks for this excellent tutorial. One of the best videos I have ever seen on the net. Ford wanted $785 to replace my left front hub assembly. With a dealer discount from a friend at an auto parts store, I did the job myself for about $150 total. Every step in the video was right on and very helpful. Explorer rides very quiet now.
Well done. I’m 60 and have been wrenching (professionally for 18) since I was 8 years old. Your video was concise, to the point and you paid attention the the details. KUDOS!
I just did this job on my 2008 Explorer Sport Trac (2wd) following your procedure. Used the Motorcraft hubs and it took me about an hour. I spent $400 on the hubs, and think this job at the dealership would have been $1000 easy. Turns out only the driver side bearing was bad but with 152k miles I replaced both sides, as I think suspension pieces in pairs is good practice. Thanks Brian.
This is probably one of the best repair videos I have ever seen. Great job, great viewing angles, great descriptions, etc. Thank you very much for your efforts on this.
Yep, GREAT PRO-tips, beginning to end!
Your a life saver!,, you and Scotty Kilmer the 2 best mechanics on TH-cam hands down people ! If you want to learn watch these 2 thank you Makuloco
I just have to say thanks!! The job went exactly as you show in the video, no trouble, job done, noise gone. The first side took me about two hours, the second side half that.
Considering this vehicle calls Hawaii island home, local mechanics were quoting $1200 and up to do the job. Total cost was under $400 with shipping and a couple new tools for my kit. Used the Timken parts (pt# HA590156) and was not surprised to find that the original OEM bearings I was taking off were Timken.
You Sir are a Gentleman and a Scholar!
This video helped me get my wife's Explorer back on the road. I had a few scary moments removing the hub bolts but a liberal application of penetrating oil and some patience saw me through. Thanks!
Wow. A shop wanted to charge me a $1k to install a set. That's not a lot of money but I got a lot of other bills piled up. I followed your advice. Thank you. Salute to you sir with both hands.
Great video; couple of comments: the front axle nut on a 2003 Ford explorer is 31mm not 32. Use a hub puller, I got one at Auto zone for $25 (or you can rent it from them) it made a huge difference. The hub assy nuts were a bear to access even after pushing the axle back, had to use a short 15mm socket; the long one wouldn't work. Make sure you have a breaker bar or cheater. It took me 6 hrs which included two trips to the store and a lot of patience. Thanks FordTechMakuloco; you saved me a ton of cash and the install was a success. BRAVO! (PS - Don't forget to use well made hubs and... plug in the new sensor)
My set goes from 30 and jumps to 32 as does most axle socket sets and 32 works just fine never a problem.
Another well made video. Took 1 hour and 15 minutes start to finish and resolved the growling noise when turning. Thanks again!
I have a 98 AWD Explorer that was badly in need of replacing both front hub assemblies. I had to turn the radio up loud so I could hear it over the noise. I watched what ever videos I could find on the subject. Yours was far and away the best. The video and sound were excellent. The instructions were spot on. I especially appreciated your giving the socket sizes and torque specs. I replaced both this weekend in about 5 hours. The only problem I ran into was finding that one of the ABS wires had a slit in the insulation and I had to reuse the factory sensor. I'll swap in a new one at some point. I didn't want to wait for a replacement. That leads me to my one suggestion. Although it might be common sense, I would advise people not to cut the ABS sensor wire until you've inspected the new one. Thanks for the help! I will be checking out the rest of your videos.
This is professional. Good clear video, clear audio and good narration. I had to play and replay this on my laptop in my garage alongside my DIY hub replacement. You deserve all the good ratings.
Probably the best You Tube video I have seen for vehicle repair!
Thank you thank you thank you for this super important video. We've been trying to get by on one paycheck and car repairs have come back into my court....the missus got a job, major commute. The assembly was loud and worn! I watched your vid like 10 times and in 1.5 careful hours with zero pneumatics, we were ready to roll in silence. Thanks! You're a great teacher
Richard Dhu Awesome to hear!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Your part reference plus guidance saved me $435. Had to beat on the hub a lot to get it to loosen up but finally got it. Took me about 40 minutes.
Thanks for helping me replace the hubs on my Ranger. The bearings sounded like that squeaky wheel on shopping carts. So far you've helped me do lower ball joints and front hubs. Thanks for the videos, they are thorough and a great help.
Well I didn't see the first video, but this one was superbly clear. HD DIY ! Well done my good man, thank you.
This video is how I showed my 17 year old how to change the hub and bearings assembly. Job done and he learned how to work on his own vehicle.
This was excellent. Great video, brother.
Thanks for saving me a bundle of money! Just did the passenger side of my truck and what a difference it made. Now it doesn't sound like a monster truck anymore. FYI I picked up two hub assemblies on ebay from American Axle in MI for $93.00 delivered to my door.
Great video!
I followed all the steps and replaced the hub..
Noise was still there so I returned the hub and the parts guy was good enough to give me another one …
Installed it and still had the noise when driving.. when sitting it spins smoothly and has just a slight noise from the brake pads … ISO I replaced the cv axel …lol…noise is still there!…. Also checked the fluid level in the front differential….any ideas would be great !
Very helpful. Was able to do this using just this video. As with every job, the right tools are essential. A BIG HAMMER makes all the difference. If you can't knock the hub and bearing loose get a bigger hammer. Passenger side took me a full day - was stuck without transportation and had to use a household hammer. Driver side was a matter of a few hours just because of a bigger hammer to knock the hub/bearing loose. Also had to put the rotor and brake caliper back on so I could jam a screw driver between the rotor and caliper to keep the axel from spinning so I could loosen and then later tighten the 32mm axel nut. Like I said I'm using basic toolbox tools to get my job done. Not ideal but it can be done. Would have spent hundreds at the shop if I didn't have this video. Many thanks.
Just followed your instruction on changing the wheel bearing and hub assembly on my 02 Ford Explorer. I got the job done! BTW, my axle nut was not 32mm, I used a 1 3/16 socket, but it was more likely a 1 1/8, just an FYI. This video was outstanding and helped a lot.
I wish Ford put as much effort into their designs as you do into these videos. Great stuff!
Thanks for the great video. I replaced diff and transfer case fluids first as they needed doing anyway; replacing the bearing this weekend hoping to stop the noise.
I'm with TurboChargedDad, I'd be going nuts not cleaning the bolts first.
I bought a very good 03 Explorer 4.0 SOHC for $400 that has the two most tortured front CV joints in existence that have not yet broken. That is what brought me to this video, especially since seeing some of your other vids.
Your experience and training is quite obvious and comes through on video very clearly.
Great detail, nothing unnecessary included, good enough with the video that I saw everything that mattered.
Keep it up, but I sure wish you would do more of the traditional Fords. Pre-modular era is what I use generally. I try to stay to 87 - 96 F-series trucks with straight six or 460 HEAVILY preferred, any Ranger preferring the simplicity of the 4.0 OHV V6, and the 2.3 Pinto engine versions. Help out us old farts with our "real" Ford trucks.
And if you ever decide to do some Mark I or Mark II Capri, or Merkur repairs I'll be watching them intently also.
lol
Just out of curiosity, do you know if there was there any reason, real or imagined, why they dropped the F150's 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern that was used since the Model T era.? I had a 26 Model T on a Model A frame with wire wheels using the same bolt pattern. The only problem was they were 17 inch as I recall. I may be mistaken on the tire size, but correct size tires were hard to find.
Same question regarding seven lug wheels.
I can only imagine it was just an April Fool's Day prank that got out of hand.
They really need to keep the accountants out of the design and planning stages. No accountant should be allowed to speak in an auto manufacturing facility (or ANY production facility) until the assembly lines are rolling ! As I understand it, the reason why the 64 Mustang never got IRS from day one, was because the accountants said we would not know the difference,. I would know, I am sure you would too !
Leave engineering to the engineers !!!
Fantastic. 03 Explorer has ABS light on and just started to grind on passenger front side. Dealer service advised this exact fix. Will be doing it myself and save money thanks to your efforts. Thank you.
Great video. Clear and concise. If i could offer a suggestion. Instead of hammering on the back of the hub you can use a 1/2 inch or even a 1 inch square stock (I used about an 8 inch one) and you start the car (careful you do not press the brake pedal (if you do need to press it you can put a C-clamp on the caliper to keep it in place,) then use the power steering pump to pop the hub off.
Be careful the bar doesn't come loose. I just reached in through the window and rocked the steering wheel so I could watch the progress. Worked like a charm.
I am a mechanic myself. I think the video was good. You are definitely a good mechanic.
Once again your instruction has given me the guidance I needed to make a proper repair.Thank you.
Thanks for the excellent video. I replaced the left front hub on a 06 Ford Explorer 4WD and the video was very helpful. Just a couple of notes. If you don't have a lift and air tools it can be helpful to break the hub nut with the wheel on the ground, or if on floor jacks insert a steel rod or big breaker bar in between the wheel studs to prevent rotation (doesn't hurt if the stud threads are marred as they are replaced anyway. Also, my hub nut was not 32mm it was 1 1/4". Thanks again for a great job with the video.
Great video...Thanks for posting it. I have a 2003 Explorer Limited AWD with the 4.6L V8, and it uses a 29 mm for the axle bolt. Also, I used an offset box wrench to help with the bolts that hold the hub on because apparently my dexterity isn't quite good enough to effectively use the socket / impact wrench as you recommended. Otherwise, this was quite helpful. Thanks again.
I just want to thank you for an excellent video. I just finished changing out both of my 2007 Ford Explorer Front Wheel Bearing hub assemblies. Took me 3 hours for both. The learning curve was teaching my son to use the explorer tire jack. He is 15 and needed to learn how to change a tire. Worked out excellent! Installed Timkins. I was wondering if you have a video for changing 2007 Ford Explorer brakes. They are not needed now but would like to attempt in the future. Thanks again for an excellent video. Saved me anywhere between $275- $575 depending on repair shop.
Good to hear it all worked out! I do not have a video on explorer brakes yet...... but they are actually really simple nothing special. If I have one in the future I will definitely film it for the site.
so glad you made this video. My front left just started humming so looking like im doing it soon
Thanks for posting this video. You just saved me $100’s of dollars
😂 while 250 people area assumably loosing money hence the # of thumbs down
Thank you for posting this! I appreciate the hammering tips. I did the driver side on a 2009 Explorer 2WD today. Mine was somewhat less stubborn to remove. Took less than an hour including brake hardware removal and assembly. Removing the brake dust shield is key to pulling this off IMO. Looking forward to the passenger side tomorrow. :-D
That’s becuase we don’t have that Axle Nut & CV axle since we have RWD. Easier job thankfully gonna tackle it within the next 2 weeks
Incredible, clean work. Having an ABS issue and now I know there's no possible way for me to do it myself (lack of garage and proper tools) have to take it in, wonder how much that will cost. Thank you for the video 👍
just finnished my 08 ranger fx4 front pasanger hub, so much money i saved :) BIG THANKS !!!
driver-side hub just died... 100,000km and both hubs go within 4 months of each other. also replaced the tie-rods too as one had a rip in the rubber cover thingie. once again BIG thanks for the videos :)
Great video tutorial! What would one expect to pay at a repair shop for this repair (total cost of parts + labor)?
Brian, in addition to the great how-to information, your production quality is excellent. Many TH-cam videos are hard to understand the audio and hard to follow the video. Great Job!
I've learned a lot watching this video. You are quite informative and obviously well educated about the mechanics of a car. Thanks so much!
Traduction en francais
good video man, I work at a HONDA dealership, I have a 98 ford explorer so I will be definitely doing this to my wheel hub bearings.
Great video. Very detailed and informative. Have an 06 Aviator with an ABS light. Had a shop do the work because something had to be programmed due to a part being changed. Could you reference when this is required in a future video?
Good video, plus you are the first person that I see cleaning up the All your work parts the way I do.. Very Very good job..
Great video probably one of the best I’ve seen are the hubs side sensitive left and right or will they fit I side
thank you. that sounds like a lot of work! that is why auto shops charge so much. lets all of us give them the respect they deserve.
Thank you for your help! I’m doing mine tomorrow and I subscribed a while back, I hope people know that they are getting the quality work you do on their Fords! Thanks again!
For a 2004 Lincoln Aviator AWD my axle not size was a 30 MM hope this helps
Thanks for taking the time to make these excellent videos.
No problem.
I'm not a mechanic but watching your video I've learned a lot and has save me lots money i feel like I'm a FordTechMakuloco student ...LOL. I have a 2002 ford explorer V8 XLT I been slowly doing some custom work to it,in three years I got my rear wheel hub assembly done twice at a mechanic shop i order the rear assembly from Timken i would like to put them on my self any video that you recommend or suggestions ?
That is the idea, people tell me I should go teach. It would be best to pull off the knuckle assy with bearing like we do then bring the knuckle in to the Ford Dealer to have them press it out. We have a special adapter we use otherwise it is a real pain. A press is a must. That is one my most requested videos and as soon as I get one in I will shoot it.
FordTechMakuloco thx that sound like a plan
FordTechMakuloco.
FordTechMakuloco - I'm confused by the torque recommendation for the axle nut. You say 185 ft-lbs but the Ford workshop manual (for 2006 4.6L 3V) lists 148 ft-lbs. Want to make sure to get this correct as you pointed out the bearing pre-load concerns.
The best I've seen this far. Good narrative and photography. My 2002 Ford XLT 4 X 4 has growling in front and back. When underway the front changes with steering. When traveling slow, backing and turning I get chatter. What should I anticipate paying to have all four wheel bearings replaced?
The rears are labor intensive but the bearing is like $50 I would say close to $300 per corner.
I've watched your video for the 2002 hub bearing replacement I'm not an automotive specialist but I'm convinced that I can do this at my local auto hobby shop where I have access to all the tools lifts and equipment and if I get stuck there are specialist who offer assistance thanks for the video and instructions.
Donnie Cornett This video walks you right through it you should be just fine.
Followed this step by step on my 98 Explorer. Great instructions. Thanks!
Great video! I used it to replace passenger side hub bearing assembly on a 2007 Ford Sport Trac. The only problem is now the ABS and Traction Control lights won't go off. I tried all the suggestions on You Tube to turn them off with no luck. What would you suggest?
Another great video. I am really enjoying all of the videos you have been posting recently. Please make as many as you can! As an owner of a 2006 Mark LT I love all of the tips and tricks you are showing to get these jobs done!
Good to hear!
Thanks for the video - this helped a lot. Just finished replacing the hubs on a 2010 Explorer with 69k miles. Getting the hub off required a sledge hammer ;-) but other than that the job was smooth. The annoying whine and vibration I could feel in the steering wheel is now completely gone. I used Timken hubs and am hoping this is a job I don't have to do again. Thanks again for the great video.
Great video. Finally a video where you have to pound/scrape and sand. I noticed the F250 has blue thread lock on pretty much everything around the brakes. Is this normal/factory?
On brakes Ford only puts Loctite on the caliper bracket bolts from the factory and that is for all models and years from my experience.
Great video! I already did this about 3 years ago but I see a couple shortcuts for the next time. (I'm sure I'll have a next time because I didn't use a Timken replacement bearing) I disassembled the brake caliper not realizing I could have just removed the entire assembly.
Yes there will likely be a next time on these trucks. I have seen aftermarket bearings last 5k miles, the company warrantied it but who want's to install a new bearing every 5k so we only use Ford and have never had a problem with them.
Great video! Detailed and good camera angles. Loved the music in the background too! Thanks!
Hey thank you for answering so quickly, your advice and video helped a lot in getting my exploder back on the road! Thanks again!
Todd Nice Good to hear!
Great video! I plan to replace both of the front Wheel Bearing Hub assemblies this weekend on my 07 Ford Explorer 2wd Eddie Baurer V8 with 96k. The front passenger is starting to growl and the front driver I suspect will not be far behind. One question... I watched this video and the video that replaced it. In the original portrait video the caliper and the wheel hub torque values were mentioned at 85 ftlb's. In this video the hub is mentioned at 90 ft lbs and the caliper is mentioned at 125 ftlbs. What are the corrrect torque for the caliper and wheel hub bolts?
This one applies to your vehicle, starting in 2006 they beefed up everything on the explorers and along with that came higher torque values. The old video was like a 2004 Explorer and this one was a 2006. So use the torque values in the description.
Outstanding Video! Thanks! I have an 02 with a bad left front bearing. This makes it easier.
I also have to put a fuel pump in my 02 explorer. Any advice or know where i can get some info on installing a replacement fuel pump?
Those tanks are a real pain to take out, you have to angle them way down as the front wedges on the frame, unless you have a hoist I wouldn't try it.
FordTechMakuloco How do you know the fuel pump is bad. I have never replace a fuel pump on that gen explorer for a no start faulty fuel pump.
FordTechMakuloco Well, turns out it wasn't the fuel pump after all (probably didn't hurt to replace it since it has 179k on it). The computer isn't turning on the pump for some reason. It's not the relay. There is no signal from the PCM to turn on the relay. I can start the start the engine by essentially hot wiring the the pump so I know everything after the relay is working. Is it possible that there is something wrong with the PCM or is it a PATS issue?
Armand Tomany Does your theft light flash real fast when you turn the key on? Have you checked the fuel cut off switch (inertia switch)
FordTechMakuloco I've sent you an email with more information.
GREAT VIDEO!!! By the the best and most informative repair video I have seen on the internet! It covered 100% of everything I needed to know. Thank you also so the sizes of sockets and such! Keep up the great videos my friend!
I have a grinding sound in my front axle in my ford explorer 2009 4x4 limited edidion , I think it comes from the wheel hub bearings , the thing is I can't tell from which side is , Is there is a way to know it? if so please bring me light on it , thank you this video is very accurate , detailed and useful in how to change the hub bearings...
Absolutely love the info and videos, have a question, 2014 Ford Explorer, have a rubbing/grinding sound from the front end. Thought it was the hub/bearing, replaced that, replaced both brake rotors and still have the noise. noise increases or decrease with the speed of the axle, question is how do I determine if the axles are bad, which one to replace. Don't have access to a lift, trying to do the best I can. PTU is not leaking, don't believe that is the problem. appreciate the help
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! I feel confident I can handle the front hubs on my 2005 Explorer 4x4 thanks to the attention to detail in your video. I'd love to see a video of the rear hubs done. I believe I have one hub on each end that needs to be replaced, so I may as well do all 4. Do you recommend Motorcraft parts? If so, I'll swing by my local Ford dealer and grab them. For something as important as the wheel hubs, spending extra for OEM may not be a bad call.
Definitely get the Ford stuff for all four wheels. I do have a rear bearing video coming out and I do show the pressing but the video may only be useful to instruct how to get it out as the press tools are special tools.
/
Thanks for the video, I used it to replace the front bearing assemblies on a 2006 Explorer I just purchased. A couple of repair shops quotes were astronomical, so I decided to order the front assemblies and rear bearing and hubs and do them all myself, all four wheels. I just removed the driver rear knuckle. I'm going to get quotes from a few machines shops on the bearing and hub installation. I read not to lower the vehicle before tightening the axle nut on the rear, that the weight of the vehicle will damage the unloaded bearing. I didn't read that when installing the front assemblies. I lowered the vehicle, then installed the axle nut on the fronts. I'm wondering if that damaged the front bearing assemblies?
Yes you should of tightened the nut up like I did in the video and do the final torque on the ground or by holding the brake in the air. You may of damaged the hub but I doubt it. As shown in my video the impact puts about 150 ft lbs of clamping torque already before the weight of the vehicle weight is put on it.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks, I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual, it didn't say anything about tightening the fronts before I applied the weight of the vehicle. I'll definitely torque the rears first. At least the fronts are easy to replace.
I replaced mine in the spring and it needs to be replaced again now. You made a comment about it going bad after 5000 miles if it is not tightened correctly. Assuming it is not just a bad bearing, what do I avoid the next time to not ruin this bearing?
I appreciate your video. I have a 2000 4x4 explorer..bought the hub and bearing replacement at auto zone..replaced it..and now my tire moves after I tightened everything and also my brakes are grinding while I test drive it..helppp
Keep up the good work, do you have any avice on a 96 f150 300 exhaust manifold?
This is the best Hub & Bearing repair video on TH-cam. Period. Unbeatable quality! Thank you Sir!
Question> What is the brand & model number of the torque wrench you used in this video? I found it comes with a flex head. Thank you
Yes it came out well for sure. The brand torque wrench is Matco not sure on the model but it is a 1/2" 25-250 ft lb flex head wrench. I am sure there is a new version of it by now.
FordTechMakuloco They are great and $355 from the truck
Steven McGhee Luckily I was in Tech school when I got mine so it was $250 new, and yes it is a great reliable torque wrench.
This is an excellent video! I have a question, '07 Ford Explorer I am replacing the hubs and bearing every 30-35k miles. Is this typical or could there be some other problem in the front end (prior collision ect.)? All highway miles no off road. Again, great video. Now I can save labor costs and do it myself. Thanks!
Jay Thompson If they are anything but oem I would expect that mileage interval yes. Oem should last 60 easy. About the only thing that can kill an oem fast like that is improper install or oversized tires
Hi Brian, quick question...How come when you reinstalled the hub you did not put any sealant back on the flange face or grease the chamfered edge. Reason I ask is that I will be doing this exact same repair on my wife's 02 Explorer.
+Joe Correia That is a factory thing Ford does not call for it on service parts. I would put a light coat of anti seize on the chamfer after cleaning but no sealant.
+FordTechMakuloco Ok thanks
Question - do you recommend applying some spline lube prior to installing the new hub? I imagine it isn't necessary if the shaft does not slide within the hub but am not sure - thanks! BTW - excellent video!
Definitely not required.
Good job! I have a 99 ford.explorer 2wd .....is mine the samething as yours? And what was the glue u put on axle nut. Tks...I have to do this to my car this weekend and I dont know much about cars
Your has regular bearing on them that you grease, the hub is part of the rotor.
Ok...thank you
Great video. Would the process be similar for an 2006 Escape XLT?
Just did this today on my 08 with 110K miles. Axle pushed out by hand and hub needed two hits with a small hammer. Gotta love rust free southern cars.
Living in the rust belt sucks when working on all my old vehicles 😢
Excellent video,surfing the internet trying to troubleshoot a grinding noise in a 2006 Ford Explorer. Great step by step instructions and removal tips. thanks Bill F
Best hub change video I have watched. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Excellent I wonder how many pounds of pressure I apply to the torque wrench on each bolt .........????????
Its all in the description under the video.
FordTechMakuloco. I have a 2007 ford sport trac. I am finding all different torque specs for the axle nut and the hub bolts. The built date on my vehicle is 3-13-2006. Can you tell me what the correct torque specs are. Thanks. Also great video.
I used this video to do my 08 explorer 4 wheel drive and it worked great except I cut the cv boot on passenger side. Now I have to replace cv half shaft. Got a video for that process???
jdxprs No but they pop right out nice and eay
I agree with the others. This is a GREAT video, thanks for making it. My sons 07 Explorer AWD has a noise in the front when turning right (appears to be coming from the left side not 100% sure tho) It has 148,000 miles. It had the right front bearing replaced around 15,000 miles ago. It had a complete front differential rebuild at 100,000 miles. Bearings, seals plus the ring & pinion. I checked for play in the front hubs as your video suggests, however both sides are tight and there doesn't seem to be any roughness in the bearing as I rotate the tires. With the price of the hub assembly I wanted to get your opinion before I bought the left front bearing.
Great tips on proper method to break loose the rotor and hub, one thing, for those at home with hand wrench only, it might be better to break loose the axle nut with the wheel on ground. Good job!!
I did this job several months ago...thanks for the great video. Since that time, I frequently have issues where the explorer acts as if it is going into 4WD at low speeds when I'm turning hard (it's a 2003 Limited with push-button 4WD, so as I understand it, it acts similar to AWD unless I actually push the 4High or 4 low button). Any ideas?
Super Video with great detail! I find there's lots of FRONT hub RR videos... I however need a REAR hub RR video. Haven't found one for the REARS.. I'll be doing front and rears. Do you have one in the works on the REAR hub/bearing removal replacement? Many thanks in advance
No not yet but the first one I get I will be doing a video on, that is the most popular one I have had request for. We will see what this week brings.
Hi, I tried this on the weekend. Got all the bolts out but that hub would not budge. 2013 Explorer has 4 bolts instead of 3. I tried a sledge hammer. Tried tapping a wedge in. Tried a hub puller but didn't know who much pressure I could put on that drive shaft) I even grinded a notch with an angle grinder at the base where it meets in the hub to see if I could get a pry bar leverage. Thing would NOT move! Should I put the rotor on and bang that with a hammer? Is there a spreader tool that works? Can I push it out from behind somehow? It is stuck, stuck stuck.
Another good one Brian, still working on my '03 Explorer and this is the next thing to do... have an ABS and the roaring sounds (front and back).
Is the bearing sealed inside the hub assembly in an AWD 2000 Ford Explorer? The assembly is around 70.00 but I see the bearing on sale some places for 25.00 Most auto parts stores don't sell the individual bearing for the front hubs, so I was wondering if that indicated it was a sealed unit. Thanks for an informative video.
Zachary Seymour Yes it should be a sealed hub and bearing unit from memory. They are much smaller so I could see them being cheaper.
Great work! My abs light has recently co me on and my 4x4 high light as well. The brakes kick in periodically every 10feet or so for the first few yards and then my adv. Trac turns off and 4x4 high light clears but info center displays "check adv. trac" . I was told its probably my transfer case shift motor but then I seen your video. Can you please advise me on where I should go from here as my funds are limited and I don't wanna start chasing rabbits. Thank you very much!
Fyi: 05 Ford Explorer
CQNikAhiii Get the codes read, you likely have a faulty rear diff speed sensor causing this and this will turn on the advance trac and 4x4 light because the 4x4 module relies on speed info from the abs module which is seeing a speed sensor fault so it disables both. Getting the codes read is your first step to saving money.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks man!
Have you seen wheel bearings as an issue in the 2011-2015 explorers? I have a 2011 with 61k and already think I have a left rear bearings going. I'm going to rotate the tire to make sure it's not old tires/tread wear issue. Also where are you getting all your torque specs from? Is there an easy way for the shade tree mechanic to access those?
+Kevin Mason I have never seen any bearing issues on the newer explorers as of yet. I get my torque specs from the technicians site on fmcdealer but you can use alldata diy
+FordTechMakuloco Hello. I have a Explorer Sport 2001. When a turn the right wheel turn left there is a sound when you broken nuts. and when I runs the truck and fall in hole I hear the sound too. you think that is a Hub Wheel or Axcel Joint? thanks.
+FordTechMakuloco my explorer is 4WD
Everyone should make videos like you, fantastic job!
You are fantastic man, all the information I needed in a timely manner and great advice.
I would like to say this was a very good video. Just changed out both of my front wheel hub assembly. I also replaced both of my front calipers and brackets. They where in very bad shape. Now I'm having problems with my brake pedal. I bled the front and rear and still the pedal goes down to the floor. Can you tell me how to bleed the brakes and due I have to open the abs valve?
You should only have to bleed the front, don't touch the abs. If your master cylinder has a bleeder on it bleed there also.
Okay so I took my vehicle to the shop and they said my master cylinder Is bad. I'm going to bench bleed it first then install it. After it is installed do I bleed the whole brake system?
Yes I would.
Okay thanks FordTechMakuloco.
Great video, Thank you.. My 03 sport trac is giving me the ABS shutter and the tires look to be a little out of camber. It has 190K so I think I will try the new bearings.
Thanks for this video. It's going to make doing my parent 06 Explorer front bearing job a breeze. Keep making all your videos like this.
Damn shame every garage doesn't have one or two like you.
15:54 ?? so what in the case of using fwd/4wd front hubs in a 2wd application? I have never seen a design where the bearing depends on the presence of a cv outboard for clamping load.I'm gonna call "creative language" on that one.
If you get the wheel off the ground and their isn't any play, what alternatives c.ould cause that noise? I don't see any boot grease around the joints either. Thanks