Welding a sheared off Ford locking wheel nut!

Welding a locking wheel nut that had being sheared off due to over torque. The bolt that the nut was fastened to was exposed showing some of its thread. So I had to weld something around the top of the exposed bolt to remove what was left of the nut that was still wound into the rim. If I welded the thread then what was left of the nut wouldn't be able to turn off the bolt. Limited for space I used a 6013 welding rod at 95 amps.
It worked just fine using an old dynomec blade. I've seen videos of guys welding using wire feed. Nearly every video using wire feed shows a weak weld breaking. Personally stick weld is the way to go I think with locking wheel nut removal. The nozzle on a wire feed weld does not allow you to get into tight lug nut spaces. However using a stick weld allows you to get right to the back of the recess easily.
Used :
6013 welding rod
Portable MIG 140FL set at 95 amps
Old dynomec blade to weld onto the sheared off bolt
www.wheelrepairs.co.uk

[@NicholasStreet]

I’ve got four bolts to get off a Peugeot because the key’s been lost. Plan to weld a 25mm od tube to the bolt so I can weld on the inside of the tube and not damage the alloys. Not seen anyone else try this way yet, I could be the first!

[@wheelrepairs]

How did you get on with the welding?

[@INTIREMOBILETIRESHOP]

Which size rod did you use, Was that 1/8 or 3/32?

[@wheelrepairs]

Cant recall now..but i generally use a standard 6013 2.5

[@wheelrepairs]

If you are in a really tight spot withnthe wheel nut almost touching the rim then 1/8 is better for a beginner..