CR10SPRO & ENDER 3 HOTEND / HEATED BED PID AUTOTUNE TUTORIAL - MARLIN FIRMWARE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2020
- How to calibrate your hotend and heated bed PID settings using Marlin Firmware Autotune. This tutorial is for the cr10s pro and ender 3, but will work for any printer using the marlin firmware. Why PID tune? If you made hardware changes to your hotend or heated bed you should tune the PID settings. If you want don't want over extrusion or under extrusion tune your PID settings. At 3:35 I use k#. I should be p# i# d#
You can copy and paste the gcode commands. Remember to change the temperature and cycles with your values:
Hotend:
m303 c5 s215 / pid autotune command
m301 p# i# d# / enter pid values
m500 / save eeprom
m503 / report settings
Heated bed:
m303 c5 e-1 s55 / pid autotune command
m304 p# i# d# / set pid values
m500 / save eeprom
m503 / report settings
Pronterface - www.pronterface.com/
Octoprint - octoprint.org/
- Affiliate Links -
Creality 3D Printer CR-10S Pro V2 - amzn.to/2BppJyy
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer - amzn.to/3jB0KK1 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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There is a mistake at 3:35 It should be p# i# d# Please look in the description. Thanks.
ha! I accidentally typed "k" when he said it. Good thing he had us double check the number afterwards otherwise I would have missed it!
Anyone try this on Windows 11? I don't think it works anymore.
@@antdx316 Yes, it worked.
So, Upgrade the hardware, upgrade the firmware, then come to you to iron out the kinks? PERFECT! Thank you for making this very clear instructional to help me sort out my heating issue! Immediate subscribe, immediate like, and I barely ever comment but I had to thank you
Once again you knocked it outta the park. Love your quick/concise videos, bud!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the quick and easy to understand tutorial. It’s been years that I needed to update these settings.
Glad it helped
Thank you for talking and going through the process slowly. Really made doing the updates easy. Hats off to you!
You're very welcome!
Thank you!
Replaced my stock hot-end on an Ender 3 v2 with Micro Swiss All-Metal, and got unstable temperatures.
This guide made it all spot-on.
Glad it helped!
Another great tutorial, thanks James
Thank you for such a great video. It was a very helpful man. I appreciate that.
You're very welcome!
Straight to the point! Keep up the good work.
Thank You..!
Very well explained thanks a lot!!!
As always🙌🏻😎 super videos! I am always following your steps with my cr10s pro. Every calibrations i have done, i am using your videos! 😎🤩👌🏻 is there anyting more to calibrate than the esteps, and the pid tuning of the extruder and bed?
Super videos buddy!
Thanks for watching. Every setting you modify on your slicer is basically a calibration to your print. The idea is the go familiar with them and make improvements on the settings based on how your current print is coming out. One thing I would recommend you take a look at is retraction settings and linear advance..
Stopped by to say a HUGE thanks for making this video. I learned a lot but I'll be honest, if I had to do it again, I'd need to watch the video again because I don't memorize the "M" commads in general.
I was having some really bad banding in my PLA prints after changing to a microswiss steel nozzle and upgrading my main board. After trying EVERYTHING in the book, research led me to PID tuning. Sure enough, this has solved my problem 100%. I do suffer from an occasional deep z band here and there which I still haven't figured out but it you were to see my before and after, it's quite the difference. From here on out, I will always do a PID tune when changing anything. Heated bed "bang bang" mode in Marlin is not my firend lol.
Glad you were able to solve your problem.
@@DiyProJames Wrong, you solved my problem with this well done video🙌🙌🤝
Thanks James! I updated to the new Tiny Machines Firmware that has teh auto PID built into it but when I press on the calibrate button it just beeps and does nothing. So I was able to use your instructions and calibrate manually and enter into the manual entry on the screen.
Great! I hope you getting better prints now..
I compiled Marlin for a ABL and was unable to PID tune the bed. Turns out it is disabled by default in Marlin. I was going to enable it, but I read that on the Ender 3 Pro with the stock bed, PID is problematic and could trigger the thermal runaway shutdown. Have you had any issues like this?
Also, when using the PID command if you add a U1 at the end you do not have to enter the values by hand. You do still need to use the M500 command to save the values though.
so I used pronterface for my ender 3 pro do i have to use octoprint for that printer? Also i set my bed like i would CR-10s pro and seen after i did that you suggest i dont set my beds PID. would it matter if i set them or should i reset and start over?
What if i switch back between PLA and high temp filament like cf nylon? Do i need to PID tune each time i switch filaments since their temperature ranges are entirely different? Cf nylon being 260-280 and PLA being in the low 200s
Unfortunately this did not work with my Ender 3 Pro , with Marlin Bugfix 2.0x , and BLTouch. When I connected the Dell Vostro (Win 11) to the printer it immediately activated the printer screen. I had Pronterface open when I turned the printer on. The computer cannot locate it. I am totally unable to identify which port it is plugged into as Dell don't have anything in their system that shows that. I tried using all the different Com Port numbers but each time Pronterface could not find it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. ThanksI the turned
I’ve been dealing with a heating error. I am using a CR10s pro and when I set the heat bed temp the printer is not reading that the bed is heating up. I followed your steps to see if that will fix the issue but the heating error is still happening. I have replaced the heated bed but still the same thing happens.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have followed the process (I have an Ender3 / process for the nozzel) but at the end the M500 command seems not to work. Do you have any idea why?
Most likely your version of firmware does not have the eeprom save enabled. The Ender 3 have limited space...
Al calibrar mi PID puse a extruir la impresora (de forma lenta) para tener un mejor escenario parecido al momento de trabajo. Si dejo la maquina parada la temperatura es muy muy estable pero extruyendo ya es mas dificil. Tengo una diferencia de medio grado en promedio. Está bien esa diferencia? La cama caliente ahora quedó perfecta a 45 grados casi de forma permanente. Antes tenía diferencias de 3 y 4 grados incluso.
I've been trying this on my i3 Mega. The PID autotuning for the hotend works fine, but when I try the heatbed I get “PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number” despite using E-1 or other number(s).
Is there a way of solving this?
Am i able to use pronterface with my ender 3?
Great video. !! im trying to follow your steps. But when i enter m303 c5 e-1 s50 i get pid autotune failed bad extruder number. Then i thought well let me continuo and when i entered m304 p# i# d# i get echo unknown command. Have you seen those before? Im on a ender 5 with marlin 2.0.x, bltouch setup and new to 3d printing.
Most likely like the ender 3 it has been disabled because of limited storage space on the board. I am able to tune the bed on the cr10s pro, but not on my ender 3.
I changed the temperature sensor of my cr10s pro with 104GT-2 . How to setup firmware to work correctly with it. "104GT-2 thermistor in marlin choose 5"
I am using latest tiny machinines firmaware
The temperature sensor should have come with a set of instructions and the values you'd would need to change for this particular sensor using the arduino ide.
Thank you for your recent answer to my post on "Nozzel temp varies while printing". You suggested that I might need to run an auto-tune to fix it. That answer plus this video gave you a well-earned Subscription! I pretty well understand the video so I will give it a go. I don't have Octoprint--you state that the procedure with Pronterface is similar to Octoprint. I fear getting into the process and finding enough differences that make me screw up my machine beyond my ability to correct. SO, are the differences enough to make this GENUINE NOOB fail? I really appreciate your help and this video, which is easy to follow and makes the process very clear.
It's similar because your are entering command lines to a terminal. Octoprint for the most part is used with a raspberry pi. A small computer that allows for wifi printing instead of using the micro sd card. People like octoprint for that reason. Plus it has plug ins that are useful. Like timelapses, bed visualization, cancel a part of a multi part print, etc... You really can't destroy your printer using octoprint because it's not like upgrading firmware. You make no changes to your 3d printer. Though you have to setup the raspberry pi, but it's a basic install. The only difficult part is probably setting up your wifi to your router. At the worst case if you can't get octoprint working, you always have the option to print with the micro sd card on your printer. Thank you for subscribing.
@@DiyProJames Thank you. To make sure I understand fully, I cannot use Pronterface on my Ender 3 Pro to do this auto-tune? I do best when following EXACTLY a guide like you've presented with prontoface for the cr10s pro. The switch to raspberry pi for an Ender 3 pro adds more complexity and less confidence for me personally. But if I have to get a raspberrry to do it, then I will! Please let me know and thanks again very much!
@@denzilcypret742 You misunderstood me. You can use pronterface to do a pid tune. Just download the application from the website and you should have terminal access. Raspberry pi with octoprint allows for wifi access. Plus has other features. Hope this helps. The ender 3 pro with the newer firmware might come with the pid tuning. Check the ender3 pro menu first to see if there is a tune feature.
@@DiyProJames Sorry about that, and thank you for your patience. Your vid is superb and I think I can get it done. The main problem I can see upfront is that my PC isn't clear enough to see the exact characters and spacing of the PID values you enter so I may have to do a bit of trial-and-error input. I ordered a RP 4 kit assuming I couldn't use Pronterface but that's ok because I'll probably work on it too! You're the best by far and can't know how much your help means to me!
@@denzilcypret742 Your pid values will be different than mine. You need to ask your printer for the pid values based on the temperature you normally use to print. Use the command in the description can copy and paste those commands, but use your own pid values based on what your printer calls for.. Hoope this helps..
Right the hotend pid tuned well but when trying to pid tune the bed and the temprature just keeps going up and up on every cycle, my bed got to 180c before I pulled the plug and noticed it had knackered my magnetic build plate.
Sorry to hear it.
Good day James, thanx again for great video. I have set the PID settings for both the hotend and bed, as provided in the video, according to my normal print settings of 200/50 degrees. Yet, when I try to print something, the printer stays in cool mode and does not print anything. Any suggestions, as to why it would do this. I'm running the Tinymachines 3D firmware.
It means that the command sent to the printer is not being received or there is an error and the printer does not execute the command. Which printer are you using?
If your using talking about the cr10s pro and your using the micro sd card. Try changing the filename to something shorter. I know there is a bug....
@@DiyProJames -thanx for the help. I printed a test print fine, was the speed setttings in Cura. Switched to Mattercontrol, will try the cubes again.
@@DiyProJames -Thanx will do.
When i give this command m303 s55 my printer starts the extruder temp and the m303 c5 e-1 s55 is not working (PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number) , what can i do to start my hotbed temp tuning ?
This is probably based on the firmware installed. You're extruder may not be set to e-1. It may be e0, e-2 or set to some other number.
Dont you think the hotend cooler should be running while doing a pid tune? It is running on a real print as well, thats why im asking.
There is a misconception that the fan is being used to cool the hotend. So there are 3 fans involved in a printer. One for the electronics bay. 2nd for the cooling block of the hotend. This is the fan on top of the hotend. This fan is always on. Turn on the printer and you will see the fan automatically starts spinning at power on. Third is one directed toward the nozzle, but it's not really directed toward the nozzle it's directed toward the filament. In a perfect world this fan should cool the area around the nozzle and not the nozzle itself. The speed of this fan is also a variable a user sets on the slicer. Personally I set this fan speed low. You can try it both ways.
Can you change the upper limit of the hotend from this program? Printing nylon, need to set hotend limit to 285C.
No it's not as simple as just setting the temperature via pronter face. There is a limit set on the firmware. Now this limit can be removed via firmware, but it is not advisable until you at least replace the stock hot end with an all metal hotend (higher temperature hotend) and replace the ptfe with something like capricorn tube... Some have often mentioned the thermistor has to be replaced also... So just because you can remove the limits via firmware does not mean you should. They are put there for safety reasons..
@@DiyProJames Ya, i have an all metal hotend a thermistor rated for 300c and installing the new 4.2.7 board with a bootloader. Was just wondering if there was an easier way. planning on printing nylon x .
@@fastyz400 There is no "easy way" It seems like your all set except changing the firmware... I think you also need an enclosure for nylon x.
My printer is saying -15C/0 will this fix that. I keep being told to watch your video but others have said this will not fix that I like to hear from you.
This does not help me. What are you trying to fix? There is not enough information
No matter what I have tried, I can't get my printer to connect with pronterface.
I have the Ender 3 Pro, how can this be done without the Raspberry Pi?
Use a free software Pronterface.
I enabled PIDTempbed and did the autotune and uploaded the values in Prontorface but now it doesnt show M301 anymore. It only show M304, but not both...
Try the m503 command... getting the pid tuned for the bed is not as important as the pid fo the hotend.
@@DiyProJames yes mate thats what I do. But it doesn’t show both M301 and M304. It only shows the one I last uploaded the values
@@JulianiLuckeey Which printer are you using? It maybe the firmware... Retry the steps again for the hotend .. Also, try resetting the values with a m502 command... save the values before shutting down your printer...
@@DiyProJames im using the ender 3. Just updated to the latest Marlin.
@@JulianiLuckeey I'm thinking it's the firmware... The ender 3 does not have enough space to have both the hotend and bed.. Check to see if you have a autotune using the printer menu instead of pronterface. PID tune directly via the printer..
What I noticed when you typed in the M301 command to set the PID values was that the readout of the values that the printer sends immediately afterwards differed in the integral part.
m301 p25.46 k2.32 d69.88
gives me:Recv: echo: p:25.46 i:1.08 d:69.88
whereas
M301 P25.46 I2.32 D69.88
gives me: Recv: echo: p:25.46 i:2.32 d:69.88
The problem seems to be the mistake in the M301 command, where you used k instead of i. :)
K should be i not k. Pid = p i d, its just a spelling mistake from our friend here😎👌🏻
It was a typo.... I used the wrong part of clip.. should be M301 Pvalue Ivalue Dvalue . Please look in the description and copy and paste with your values if you need to... Thanks.
@@DiyProJames Thanks for the video nonetheless! It helped me to find the correct values for my printer and got rid of the thermal runaway issues I had when using the part cooling fan.
It is pid drones use the same operations...it means when this happens do this now and this is what to do to correct it...
EXCELLENT VID MAN!!
When typing in the m303 c5 s315 code I get the error printer is not online
Try changing the port and baud rate. typical baud rage is 9600, 12.5k, 25k. You might also try changing out the cable. Sometime the connectors are finicky.
@@DiyProJames I just noticed that there's actually a PID tuning option in the printer itself
Would you have a tutorial on how to tune it that way?
Input M303 C5 S235, PID autotune failed, temperature too high, Input M303 C5 S200, PID autotune failed again, temperature too high. What is wrong? Ender 3 v2 machine
It could be bad hardware or bad firmware. It's difficult to tell with limited information and testing...
i think you made mistake there - 3:55 its pid not pkd. after you checking m503 - all changed, but 'i' still same, because of 'k' entered.
Yes, sorry it was a typo.. All the code is listed in the description.
Can I do this to the anycubic I3 mega s?
Yes, I believe so. You should be able to preform this task on any printer using marlin firmware.
@@DiyProJames thanks 👍
Anyone try this on Windows 11? I don't think it works anymore.
Even after following your video and then following your description, I still got; PID Autotune failed! Bad extruded number. I typed in m303 c5 e-1 s55 exactly
Is this for the ender 3?
@@DiyProJames I got this too on the CR-10 Max.
Hola, como estás? Escribimos p k d or p i d?
ahhh...you saved the wrong value for i at 3:35 when you saved it as k instead of i. i should have a saved value of 2.17, not 3.16 if I'm following this correctly.
Sorry, It was bad editing... The values are based on p i d. Please use the description to copy and paste. The pid values should be the values given to you by your printer..
I thought the baud rate should be 115200?
No, it does not. If you're having problems with your computer detecting your printer try changing the baud rate manually. It depends on what rate was set inside the firmware plus if the hardware can handle it.
@@DiyProJames thanks, I didn’t know that.
>>> m303 c5 e-1 s60
SENDING:M303 C5 E-1 S60
PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number
Is this for the ender 3?
@@DiyProJames ender 5 plus with btt e3 mini v2.0 on a btt TFT35 v3.0
@@painting4beginners890 Most likely the firmware is setup differently on your printer... The bed pid is not as important as the extruder pid...
@@DiyProJames it's ok thanks i removed the "btt e3 mini v2.0 and the btt TFT35 v3.0" and put the standard LCD back and a standard silent mother board uploaded the newest firmware with the pid's included and now everything is working as it should 👍
@@DiyProJames Worst answer ever
it is M304 to set the heated bed gcode. not M303
Yes, its 304 to set the heated bed and 301 to set the extruder values.. Use 303 to raise temp. and cycle to tune bed and extruder or bed.
DiyProJames your text says M303. Can u change it up.
@@TechBrewGamer its been changed in the description....
PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
Same, I don’t know what to do
Did you ever resolve it
I see it sorry...not used to TH-cam a lot...
No problem..