Thx! I used the recommended setup at the time the model was released. It flies nicely, but next time around I would choose 3 blade props for the scale ground appearance.
@@WrightBrosRC thanks for letting me know! I have the larger Hangar 9 Bronco and the smaller flightline Bronco and will be doing this one soon. I appreciated seeing that you did your wiring in such a way the plane could be broken down. The Big Hangar 9 is setup to be broken down that way and I was glad to see a fairly easy arrangement done with yours to do the same. Ive been looking for some 3 bladers already but for now Ill be using Xoar wooden props as its what I use on my larger model. Thanks again!
The problem with extending the battery leads is current ripple under load. You can fix this by adding a capacitor pack across the battery leads however it's simpler to just use longer motor wires.
@@WrightBrosRC I want a bronco, but I want a big one, this ones a little small. Id like twin 30-50cc with wing panels that come off outside of the engines. :)
I had a problem with the steering arm grub screw wouldn't tighten so I had to go with a 5x4mm grub screw. I'm using the rimfire 46 motors which are hard to find I was lucky to get a pair.
This was an excellent and informative video. I have been thinking of buying this plane, but was put off by the fact that its assembly/disassembly going to/from the field seemed burdensome. Thank you for showing your process, as it allayed any concerns I had. Seems like this would be a good plane for the futaba S-Bus system to cut down little on the number of things needing plugging and unplugging? Thanks again, it was very helpful!!
Thank you very much for your kind comments. I agree with you, the S-Bus would eliminate many of the servo leads. I have yet to experiment with S-Bus though so I know very little about it. The part of the build probably requires the most consideration is the ESC location and cabling because of current draw considerations. There is nothing in the instructions to help with figuring out how to get that part right. -Den
Programming can become confusing. I recommend checking out TH-cam instructions for your DX9 to verify programming. When your mix is functioning properly, change the mix "switch" position from "on" to the channel your gear is on. That is how it shuts off when the gear is retracted.
I only use flight stabilizers that have active in-flight control (on/off and gain) with my xmitter. I haven't used the flight stabilizer yet on this aircraft. 6s seems a bit much for power, but it probably depends more on prop clearance. Bigger motors, larger props... You should match the ESC current rating to the motors maximum operating current and choose a prop that stays at or below the maximum watt rating of your ESC/motor combo when at full throttle.
Is a beautiful plane can you reply with the cost. And do you build for others. The Pony is and always will be my favorite combat platform I just don't have the time to build anymore. But I would be so greatful to have m one thanx .
Hello Quinn, this aircraft is currently out of stock with no ETA from the manufacturer. The ARF kit is $579. Completion components add another $600 to $800. Build labor would likely render the total cost too high. If you would like more details, please contact me via email. (under the about channel tab w/captcha) Thanks for checking out WBRC. 😊
I did not have that issue. However, I used ball links on the rudder control horn linkage because the kit hardware binds. The servo mount and rudder hinge lines are not parallel.
I drive an SUV when taking aircraft to the field, but when disassembled it would fit in the rear seat of many vehicles. It is a large aircraft though it disassembles nicely.
Bravo!!! Well Done!!! Thank you for all the great info on the build….You explain it so that I understand, and the great remarks about the OV-10…
Many thx for the kind comments, Michael. It's a nice bird.
Nicely done!! Mine should arrive by the end of the week. Last one Motion had in stock currently. I learned a ton from your video, Thank you so much!
Many thx! It's a nice aircraft. I still fly mine. Let me know how your build goes. -Den
I like the way you install you a sponsons without screwing them on
Thanks! I would have no reason to remove them and thought the smooth appearance would look nicer.
Excellent setup and walk through. Did you use the recommended equipment from motion or did you use something different?
Thx! I used the recommended setup at the time the model was released. It flies nicely, but next time around I would choose 3 blade props for the scale ground appearance.
@@WrightBrosRC thanks for letting me know! I have the larger Hangar 9 Bronco and the smaller flightline Bronco and will be doing this one soon. I appreciated seeing that you did your wiring in such a way the plane could be broken down. The Big Hangar 9 is setup to be broken down that way and I was glad to see a fairly easy arrangement done with yours to do the same. Ive been looking for some 3 bladers already but for now Ill be using Xoar wooden props as its what I use on my larger model. Thanks again!
Nice review Dennis! Looking forward to seeing a cargo drop in action.
Thx Tristan! I hope some folks find it useful. :)
The problem with extending the battery leads is current ripple under load. You can fix this by adding a capacitor pack across the battery leads however it's simpler to just use longer motor wires.
Nice review and great job on the plane!
thx Jay. how you doin?
Dennis I had a issue with 75mm rear wheels which wear to big I had to drop to 70mm it was a perfect fit no binding
Hello Rabun, it sounds like you are nearing your first flight? Do you have any pictures or video?
Not yet but soon
Looks good
Thx John. Do you fly yours on 6s?
@@WrightBrosRC I dont have one, but I probably would.
my guess was you had one in your hangar already. its a nice kit.
@@WrightBrosRC I want a bronco, but I want a big one, this ones a little small. Id like twin 30-50cc with wing panels that come off outside of the engines. :)
I had a problem with the steering arm grub screw wouldn't tighten so I had to go with a 5x4mm grub screw. I'm using the rimfire 46 motors which are hard to find I was lucky to get a pair.
Plenty of power with the Rimfire 46. Yes, a secure steering arm is important. 👍
This was an excellent and informative video. I have been thinking of buying this plane, but was put off by the fact that its assembly/disassembly going to/from the field seemed burdensome. Thank you for showing your process, as it allayed any concerns I had. Seems like this would be a good plane for the futaba S-Bus system to cut down little on the number of things needing plugging and unplugging? Thanks again, it was very helpful!!
Thank you very much for your kind comments. I agree with you, the S-Bus would eliminate many of the servo leads. I have yet to experiment with S-Bus though so I know very little about it. The part of the build probably requires the most consideration is the ESC location and cabling because of current draw considerations. There is nothing in the instructions to help with figuring out how to get that part right. -Den
Dennis I put my steering servo on channel 3 but I can't get it to mix with the rudder so it will not work when gear is up on my DX9🤔
Programming can become confusing. I recommend checking out TH-cam instructions for your DX9 to verify programming. When your mix is functioning properly, change the mix "switch" position from "on" to the channel your gear is on. That is how it shuts off when the gear is retracted.
Hi is there any reason why you didn't use a AS3X spectrum receiver. What would be your recomendation for 6s motor and ESC
I only use flight stabilizers that have active in-flight control (on/off and gain) with my xmitter. I haven't used the flight stabilizer yet on this aircraft. 6s seems a bit much for power, but it probably depends more on prop clearance. Bigger motors, larger props... You should match the ESC current rating to the motors maximum operating current and choose a prop that stays at or below the maximum watt rating of your ESC/motor combo when at full throttle.
Is a beautiful plane can you reply with the cost. And do you build for others. The Pony is and always will be my favorite combat
platform I just don't have the time to build anymore. But I would be so greatful to have m one thanx .
Hello Quinn, this aircraft is currently out of stock with no ETA from the manufacturer. The ARF kit is $579. Completion components add another $600 to $800. Build labor would likely render the total cost too high. If you would like more details, please contact me via email. (under the about channel tab w/captcha) Thanks for checking out WBRC. 😊
@@WrightBrosRC if you were to build one for me I would like it in the black pony colors. Just what would it approximately cost?
Did you have any problems with the rudder control rods floodering I'm building one now I thought about putting carbon rod over the rudder control rod
I did not have that issue. However, I used ball links on the rudder control horn linkage because the kit hardware binds. The servo mount and rudder hinge lines are not parallel.
O.k also I'm using the JP, e brakes and navigation lights
Would be fine if you show us how you transport the model.
Hello Wilson, I transport the model on the foam board stand used in the video for disassembly.
@@WrightBrosRC Thanks. What vehicle do you use?
I drive an SUV when taking aircraft to the field, but when disassembled it would fit in the rear seat of many vehicles. It is a large aircraft though it disassembles nicely.
@@WrightBrosRC Thanks again. I drive a Mitsubishi Outlander. Hope it will fit in!!
If you are anything like me, it depends on how many other planes you squeeze in there too... LOL!
This guys smugness annoys me. But he is good at his craft.
Sorry for the annoying bit, but thx for the compliment! 😃
✈✈✈👍😎👍✈✈✈
Many thx! 😁