Two thumbs up for the video. I just like having more wattage and turning down the "Gain" on an amp than the video, but its the same premise and a good idea. Also, the signal from your head units pre amp should match what the amp can take. The higher the voltage, the cooler your amp will run. Just do not exceed the amps input voltage. Most head units have low voltage pre amps, like 2-3 volts, and most amps can handle 5-7 volts. There are signal boosters you can put between your head unit and amp that are not very expensive ( using RCA cables). It will make your system sound a good deal better too! I also like looking at the Signal/Noise number and pick only amps with a number of 90 dB or higher.
Thanks for the comment. You are correct on all aspects. We try to keep the videos as simple as possible so people can follow along.. We thought about S/N ratio but it’s a lot to take in. The car audio industry is more complex than people think ..right.?! Again thanks for your comment it’s very insightful.
Excellent video. I have a question, if you could help me I would be grateful... The 2-way kit “S165M2mg” from Blam (Signature Multix line) contains: (1) a woofer (WS6) that reproduces frequencies of 80 Hz ÷ 6 kHz and (2) a tweeter (TSM 25 Mg 70) that reproduces frequencies from 1.18 Khz ÷ 43 KHz. The 2-way kit “TH K2 II A CORO” from Audison (Thesis line) contains: (1) a woofer (TH 6.5 II sax) that reproduces frequencies of 40 ÷ 4.5 kHz and (2) a tweeter (TSM 25 Mg 70 ) which reproduces frequencies of 800 ÷ 26 kHz. Just looking at these technical data of the two kits mentioned, is it possible to say which one will, for example, be more likely to reproduce acoustic or instrumental music better? Note: considering the hypothetical scenario in which the two kits mentioned were installed in the same car (at different times, of course) and that the entire rest of the system (amplifiers, subwoofer, DSP, cables and wires, frequency cuts, time alignment, etc. .) were correctly dimensioned, installed and adjusted.
It’s hard to tell, which would sound better for acoustic music on specifications alone. I can’t say the speakers are designed for acoustical music. Although every person hears speakers differently, so it would be nearly impossible for me to recommend what Set would sound better to you. The only way you would be able to decide is to at least go to a shop that carries both on display and listen to them. It would be pretty tough though to find a shop that would have those two sets of speakers on display to demonstrate, I can see either way I believe you will be happy with either set of speakers because Addison does excellent speakers as well. Specially, the thesis line.
Iv got a golf MK6 R that I’m wanting to upgrade front door speakers & want something real punchy with bass,iv got a 15 inch kicker comp sub that I’ll put in the boot at some point,iv also got a Mercedes E250 coupe & the speakers in that is insane,if I could have my golf sounding like the Mercedes I’d not need a sub lol its crazy & sounds crystal clear,not sure if there stock or upgrades but never heard anything like it,i watched your video from about 2 years ago where you had 4/5 different 6.5” front door speaker & you had a mic in front of them,im definitely getting the pioneers,if the golf is punchy enough just with the pioneers with my double din pioneer stereo I’ll probably leave the sub out for longer
Hey Tony thanks for the comment. Ok let’s see if I can help you through this so your able to get the sound your looking for in the Golf. The Mercedes more than likely has 6.5 subwoofers in the door, double check that by putting your ear against the speaker and if they only hear bass then they are subs. For the Golf You’ll want to really deaden the doors to get the most bass out of the door speakers. If you Mercedes does have subs in the door and want the same effect look at some 6.5 subwoofers like the SWS6.5x earthquake. Hope that helps
Great info, I chose some JL Audio VXI 800 and 1000 amplifiers, only ting is that there is no OEM integration for the 2023 Tacoma w/JBL yet, really would like to keep the factory HU. Not a fan of the floating HU and like the size of the current HU.
Those are awesome amps. Great choices. Yeah PAC or NAVTV hasn’t come out with anything to integrate the factory amplified system yet on the Tacoma. I know the VX800 has signal summing which gives you the ability to get a clean signal off that JBL system but I agree a plug in OEM intergration piece is much better coming off the radio instead of having to piece together a full range signal off the factory amp… I see they Metra(axxess) might have something but I would call metra online.com to double check. I skimmed the information on the page and the manual and it doesn’t say it works with or won’t with the JBL system. The model # is AXDSPX-TY3.
….. I’ve always believed that reputable manufacturers, (the late A/D/S, Zapco, SundownAudio, Linear Power, Precision Power, Alpine, etc) who use higher quality semiconductors, and power supplies, make units with more staying power (longevity) in the field. Lower tier units can endure somewhat longer with the aid of stiffening power capacitors to control the peaks during transients. -happy listening
I am seeking a solution where the car speaker initially runs from the factory output signal, but switches to the amplifier output once the car starts. This setup aims to conserve the car battery by preventing it from draining power when the car is not running, while still allowing me to enjoy music from the factory radio, as it consumes less power.
You would have to some type of run a relay system in order to do that. No one makes anything like that. If that’s your goal use a 4 channel amp that doesn’t draw a lot of current. Look at the diamond Audi micro4v2 it only draws 50 amps max but will draw less than 25 amps on music.
So if my stock headunit can output 4x40w at 8 ohms what happens if l add a component system that has an rms of 100 watts. I have never done anything like this. My car is a volvo s40 2006 with high performance audio.
Ok let’s see if we can help. First off let’s start with the stock head unit. Where did you get the stock headunit specs maybe the specs are for the amp since it’s a high performance system… the 8 ohms is throwing me off most car audio is 4 ohms or 2 ohms
Never mention the primary factor to select the Amplifier. The power source, Car Battery and its connection, cable sizing and connector grades. No proper sizing the amplifier by take into consideration of car battery power rating is a mistake, due to creating DC voltage instability, and DC power draining problem if you directly connect the amplifier power supply from the battery terminals without any protection devices especially when the car is idle. 😅
I had something like that on the original draft especially because we are starting to work on more electric vehicles. But we try to keep our videos under 10 min especially if it has lots of info. I’m thinking we should do a separate video for just that subject. Thanks for the comment!
Two thumbs up for the video. I just like having more wattage and turning down the "Gain" on an amp than the video, but its the same premise and a good idea. Also, the signal from your head units pre amp should match what the amp can take. The higher the voltage, the cooler your amp will run. Just do not exceed the amps input voltage. Most head units have low voltage pre amps, like 2-3 volts, and most amps can handle 5-7 volts. There are signal boosters you can put between your head unit and amp that are not very expensive ( using RCA cables). It will make your system sound a good deal better too! I also like looking at the Signal/Noise number and pick only amps with a number of 90 dB or higher.
Thanks for the comment. You are correct on all aspects. We try to keep the videos as simple as possible so people can follow along.. We thought about S/N ratio but it’s a lot to take in. The car audio industry is more complex than people think ..right.?! Again thanks for your comment it’s very insightful.
Excellent video. I have a question, if you could help me I would be grateful... The 2-way kit “S165M2mg” from Blam (Signature Multix line) contains: (1) a woofer (WS6) that reproduces frequencies of 80 Hz ÷ 6 kHz and (2) a tweeter (TSM 25 Mg 70) that reproduces frequencies from 1.18 Khz ÷ 43 KHz. The 2-way kit “TH K2 II A CORO” from Audison (Thesis line) contains: (1) a woofer (TH 6.5 II sax) that reproduces frequencies of 40 ÷ 4.5 kHz and (2) a tweeter (TSM 25 Mg 70 ) which reproduces frequencies of 800 ÷ 26 kHz. Just looking at these technical data of the two kits mentioned, is it possible to say which one will, for example, be more likely to reproduce acoustic or instrumental music better? Note: considering the hypothetical scenario in which the two kits mentioned were installed in the same car (at different times, of course) and that the entire rest of the system (amplifiers, subwoofer, DSP, cables and wires, frequency cuts, time alignment, etc. .) were correctly dimensioned, installed and adjusted.
It’s hard to tell, which would sound better for acoustic music on specifications alone. I can’t say the speakers are designed for acoustical music. Although every person hears speakers differently, so it would be nearly impossible for me to recommend what Set would sound better to you. The only way you would be able to decide is to at least go to a shop that carries both on display and listen to them. It would be pretty tough though to find a shop that would have those two sets of speakers on display to demonstrate, I can see either way I believe you will be happy with either set of speakers because Addison does excellent speakers as well. Specially, the thesis line.
Iv got a golf MK6 R that I’m wanting to upgrade front door speakers & want something real punchy with bass,iv got a 15 inch kicker comp sub that I’ll put in the boot at some point,iv also got a Mercedes E250 coupe & the speakers in that is insane,if I could have my golf sounding like the Mercedes I’d not need a sub lol its crazy & sounds crystal clear,not sure if there stock or upgrades but never heard anything like it,i watched your video from about 2 years ago where you had 4/5 different 6.5” front door speaker & you had a mic in front of them,im definitely getting the pioneers,if the golf is punchy enough just with the pioneers with my double din pioneer stereo I’ll probably leave the sub out for longer
Hey Tony thanks for the comment. Ok let’s see if I can help you through this so your able to get the sound your looking for in the Golf. The Mercedes more than likely has 6.5 subwoofers in the door, double check that by putting your ear against the speaker and if they only hear bass then they are subs. For the Golf You’ll want to really deaden the doors to get the most bass out of the door speakers. If you Mercedes does have subs in the door and want the same effect look at some 6.5 subwoofers like the SWS6.5x earthquake. Hope that helps
Great info, I chose some JL Audio VXI 800 and 1000 amplifiers, only ting is that there is no OEM integration for the 2023 Tacoma w/JBL yet, really would like to keep the factory HU. Not a fan of the floating HU and like the size of the current HU.
Those are awesome amps. Great choices. Yeah PAC or NAVTV hasn’t come out with anything to integrate the factory amplified system yet on the Tacoma. I know the VX800 has signal summing which gives you the ability to get a clean signal off that JBL system but I agree a plug in OEM intergration piece is much better coming off the radio instead of having to piece together a full range signal off the factory amp… I see they Metra(axxess) might have something but I would call metra online.com to double check. I skimmed the information on the page and the manual and it doesn’t say it works with or won’t with the JBL system. The model # is AXDSPX-TY3.
Hello, I have 70watts speakers as front and 60watts for rear. Im
looking to upgrade with a 90x4 amplifier. Is 90watts amplifier too much?
Which passive crossover capacitor do i need for the infinity 4032cfx (4inch) speaker?
400V - 1.5UF capacitor is good?
Alpine pdx typically had 500-1000 dampening.( I’ve noticed last 4-5 years manufacturers are starting to leave that spec/number out.)
Yeah it use to be stated more often. Not sure why they stopped
Awesome video, thanks
Thanks!
….. I’ve always believed that reputable manufacturers, (the late A/D/S, Zapco, SundownAudio, Linear Power, Precision Power, Alpine, etc) who use higher quality semiconductors, and power supplies, make units with more staying power (longevity) in the field.
Lower tier units can endure somewhat longer with the aid of stiffening power capacitors to control the peaks during transients.
-happy listening
EVERYONE READ THIS!! Great points!
I am seeking a solution where the car speaker initially runs from the factory output signal, but switches to the amplifier output once the car starts. This setup aims to conserve the car battery by preventing it from draining power when the car is not running, while still allowing me to enjoy music from the factory radio, as it consumes less power.
You would have to some type of run a relay system in order to do that. No one makes anything like that. If that’s your goal use a 4 channel amp that doesn’t draw a lot of current. Look at the diamond Audi micro4v2 it only draws 50 amps max but will draw less than 25 amps on music.
Please compare the pioneer DMH-ZF9350BT vs Alpine ilx-511e
Good recommendation well try to get to that one
So if my stock headunit can output 4x40w at 8 ohms what happens if l add a component system that has an rms of 100 watts. I have never done anything like this. My car is a volvo s40 2006 with high performance audio.
Ok let’s see if we can help. First off let’s start with the stock head unit. Where did you get the stock headunit specs maybe the specs are for the amp since it’s a high performance system… the 8 ohms is throwing me off most car audio is 4 ohms or 2 ohms
What kind of amplifier for a bike harley that works fine with speaker DS18
For 2 channel MICRO2v2 for 4 channel MICRO4v2 ALL DAY!!
Never mention the primary factor to select the Amplifier. The power source, Car Battery and its connection, cable sizing and connector grades. No proper sizing the amplifier by take into consideration of car battery power rating is a mistake, due to creating DC voltage instability, and DC power draining problem if you directly connect the amplifier power supply from the battery terminals without any protection devices especially when the car is idle. 😅
Explain some more
I had something like that on the original draft especially because we are starting to work on more electric vehicles. But we try to keep our videos under 10 min especially if it has lots of info. I’m thinking we should do a separate video for just that subject. Thanks for the comment!
🔥👍
Thanks for the emoji comment! 👍👍