Solid mount for that anvil. I have mine mounted to a steel tractor-trailer wheel and the wheel is permanently fixed to a beer keg filled with concrete. This allows me to use holes around the wheel to hold me tools. Every handle I have fits them.
Putting a piece of carbon steel in it ,is like cheating to me , blacksmith it without it , there are ways to do this . This is just like Damascus steel pretty to look at , but can’t hold up to a true function time after time , eventually it will fail somewhere down the line . Heat treat the steel right & you don’t have to put a piece of carbon steel in it , use professional heat treating systems if you can afford them , it will hold the heat at temp & you,ll get better steel out of them & they,ll hold a edge longer . Another mistake you made was burning the Handel this weakens the wood . Would have went for a very dark stain . Never carve or burn your tomahawk handles . Tarring your handles or using old black motor oil can achieve this effect .
Hi Robert, the reason we use as little high carbon steel as possible is an homage to the old days when high carbon steel was expensive and you would ONLY use it for pieces that needed to stay sharp and hold an edge. Furthermore the body of the axe doesn’t need to be hardened, it’s more durable as mild steel. Our forge weld here is strong and cross-boundry grain formation was likely achieved since it survived the quench. Burning the handle is another ancient technique called shou sugi-ban by the Japanese, it doesn’t damage any internal wood and creates a layer of carbon that prevents the formation of mold or rot and damage from insects.
Blacksmith have been forgwelding in the bit for hundreds of years. Just because yours fail doest make it wrong or in your words cheating. If the steel doesn't have enough carbon, it doesn't have enough carbon. I care how professional the heat treating facility is. It's still going to be a soft piece of steel. He did a great job and did the correct procedure forgeweldig the bit in. Good job. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic video!! Love the use of the black pipe bell to help drift the eye!!! Thank you!!!! Great idea!!!!
Cool video, I finally made some 3/4" V bit tongs today. Tomorrow I will attempt a RR spike tomahawk.
Solid mount for that anvil. I have mine mounted to a steel tractor-trailer wheel and the wheel is permanently fixed to a beer keg filled with concrete.
This allows me to use holes around the wheel to hold me tools. Every handle I have fits them.
That’s awesome do you have any videos on how you attached the handle ? Is it just friction fit or does it have a wedge
Thetomahawk looks reallynice. Greetings from germany.
Nice EVA T-shirt mate, i paint my tradle hammer with the 01 unit colors hehe
Awesome 😎👍🏼
Nice
Greetings from TFR
turn that railroad spike into a pipe tomahawk :)
Very nice.
Forge On. God bless.
Putting a piece of carbon steel in it ,is like cheating to me , blacksmith it without it , there are ways to do this . This is just like Damascus steel pretty to look at , but can’t hold up to a true function time after time , eventually it will fail somewhere down the line . Heat treat the steel right & you don’t have to put a piece of carbon steel in it , use professional heat treating systems if you can afford them , it will hold the heat at temp & you,ll get better steel out of them & they,ll hold a edge longer . Another mistake you made was burning the Handel this weakens the wood . Would have went for a very dark stain . Never carve or burn your tomahawk handles . Tarring your handles or using old black motor oil can achieve this effect .
Hi Robert, the reason we use as little high carbon steel as possible is an homage to the old days when high carbon steel was expensive and you would ONLY use it for pieces that needed to stay sharp and hold an edge. Furthermore the body of the axe doesn’t need to be hardened, it’s more durable as mild steel.
Our forge weld here is strong and cross-boundry grain formation was likely achieved since it survived the quench.
Burning the handle is another ancient technique called shou sugi-ban by the Japanese, it doesn’t damage any internal wood and creates a layer of carbon that prevents the formation of mold or rot and damage from insects.
Blacksmith have been forgwelding in the bit for hundreds of years. Just because yours fail doest make it wrong or in your words cheating. If the steel doesn't have enough carbon, it doesn't have enough carbon. I care how professional the heat treating facility is. It's still going to be a soft piece of steel. He did a great job and did the correct procedure forgeweldig the bit in. Good job. Thanks for sharing.