I'm enjoying your videos much. I started out young and built 4 layouts in HO scale. I had powered switches, sidings, working signal lights and track I could turn off. I had no plans or schematics and have no idea how I was able to do such work that had people awestruck. I look back at my boxes of model stuff, and I'm excited to get started again and your videos will sure be a huge help. Thanks for sharing your passion with those of us who enjoy it as well.
Thank you Ron. Reprogramming a decoder and using jmri are pretty scary to dcc newbies like me and you made it feel doable with this clear and detailed step by step tutorial.
Thank you for doing these videos. I converted to DCC (from marklin digital) in 1993. I remember (before DCC) when the original digital system was marketed by marklin in the early 90s. Decoders were made by Lenz of Germany (they created DCC). When DCC took off (and one manufacturer really fought against NMRA standards) Marklin changed their protocol, so their system would no longer be compatible with DCC. Decoders from marklin were around $90 each, and had a very high failure rate (explains their "no warranty on decoder unless installation was done by Marklin"). Decoders now are very reliable, are much less costly and available from several manufacturers.
Ron, I have found that some brands of decoders, when factory fitted, have different settings to the defaults in JMRI. As a safety exercise, I have now got into the habit when adding a new loco to my roster to click on the "read all sheets" as the first step after selecting the decoder. It takes some time, but ensures that the JMRI defaults are updated with the actual settings on the decoder. This saves possible problems with some of the higher order CVs being used for sound and some of the advanced light functions.
Great how-to to get started in Decoder Pro. One of the first things I aways do to fresh install of any decoder is use the factory reset function. Then take the loco off the track and let it reset. That will give you a "fresh" starting place.
Hardest part of JMRI is the setup of the computer interface. If you stick with the basic 6 CV settings that should be more than enough to get started. CV 2 3 4 5 6 and 29 do the job nicely.
Hey Ron, great video. My layout it has 2 reversing loops. On one of your videos from a few years back you mentioned having a reversing loop on your lower staging yard. I was wondering if you could do a video on how you wired you loop. Thank you Steven.
I always enjoy your videos, and even though I may know how to do the things you are showing, I like to watch to see if someone has a better idea than the way I do it, but something I noticed. You didn't isolate the decoders motor tabs with the kapton tape. Maybe it isn't nessessary anymore on the new stuff, be we used to be warned to put it on the frame to keep the motor tabs from touching the frame and letting the smoke out of the decoder.
I am an HO modeler, but Decoder Pro is a topic I'm looking forward to learning more about - so thanks for covering this! Also, I have an old Apple MacBook Pro laptop that I will be replacing (probably this year) with a PC, so any advice you can offer about computer choices in an upcoming video would be appreciated.
Any computer that can run JAVA will work to run JMRI/Decode Pro. It is the interface to your DCC system that you need to worry about. Almost all DCC systems now use USB to interface to your computer and command station. Like Ron was using a Digitrax PR3 and a short sections of track to program decoders.
Like Tex said, pretty much any computer, and almost certainly any new PC, is going to work for this. It doesn't require anything particularly powerful. I will also be covering some more Decoder Pro topics soon, specifically speed matching.
Ron, great video on JMRI. Wondering, do you have a video on How you connected your Digitrax3 to you computer to interface with JMRI. I have had no luck with getting my PR3 to connect and talk to JMRI. Any suggestions on videos I can watch?
I have not made such a video, and I'm not computer expert enough to walk you through it except to say 2 things: 1) Connecting the two is the HARDEST part about using JMRI, and 2) When I have problems it is usually a matter of identifying the correct COM Port. You have to do this manually in JMRI. Google and consult the JMRI manual for more specifics.
Always use the supplied Kapton tape on the frame where the tabs could contact the frame. Ron has demonstrated this before. I'm sure he just missed it this time.
This is a great video but I can't put it into practice. I'm trying to program a digitrax DH126D decoder using a Digitrax PR4 and Decoder Pro on a dedicated programming track. Whenever I try to write a new CV Decoder Pro says: "302 - programmer busy. The command station has reported that it's busy doing something else, and can't do any programming right now. This usually means that some other part of the DCC system is doing a programming operation, e.g. a hand-held throttle. Some DCC systems can't do ops-mode programming (programming on the main) while also using the service mode programming track, in which case they'll return this error message." There is no other part of the DCC system that can be doing a programming operation such as a hand-held throttle. It is just the computer, the PR4, the programming track and the locomotive. What's up?
Ron, I was wondering when you have multiple engines. Are they all running at the same speed, or can one be slightly faster (slower) than others . Or does the JMRI programs stay pretty consistent in programing all at the same speed ? Great video as always!
I will be doing a speed matching video very soon, but JMRI does not produce an automatic match in speed. You have to play with it more than that. You do want locos closely speed matched, although some variation can be tolerated. Watch for that video in a couple weeks.
Hi Ron, I know this might be a strange question but, how do you power your ESU LokProgrammer? Do you use the supplied power supply or do you have AC power supplied from somewhere else?
Completely useless video, I tried following your instructions to upgrade the couplings on my model and now I can’t get the thing to go back together. I ended up with a model that works worse than before thanks to the lack of actual instructions in this video.
I'm enjoying your videos much. I started out young and built 4 layouts in HO scale. I had powered switches, sidings, working signal lights and track I could turn off. I had no plans or schematics and have no idea how I was able to do such work that had people awestruck. I look back at my boxes of model stuff, and I'm excited to get started again and your videos will sure be a huge help. Thanks for sharing your passion with those of us who enjoy it as well.
Glad you are coming back to it. 👍🏼
Thank you Ron. Reprogramming a decoder and using jmri are pretty scary to dcc newbies like me and you made it feel doable with this clear and detailed step by step tutorial.
Thank you for doing these videos. I converted to DCC (from marklin digital) in 1993. I remember (before DCC) when the original digital system was marketed by marklin in the early 90s. Decoders were made by Lenz of Germany (they created DCC). When DCC took off (and one manufacturer really fought against NMRA standards) Marklin changed their protocol, so their system would no longer be compatible with DCC. Decoders from marklin were around $90 each, and had a very high failure rate (explains their "no warranty on decoder unless installation was done by Marklin"). Decoders now are very reliable, are much less costly and available from several manufacturers.
It’s a wonderful thing, DCC!! It’s one of the greatest things that has happened in the world of the model railroad!! I, too use DCC for my trains.
Perfect Timing, Ron! I just got into DCC and needed a quick tutorial. Glad your production schedule lined up with mine!
Ron, I have found that some brands of decoders, when factory fitted, have different settings to the defaults in JMRI. As a safety exercise, I have now got into the habit when adding a new loco to my roster to click on the "read all sheets" as the first step after selecting the decoder. It takes some time, but ensures that the JMRI defaults are updated with the actual settings on the decoder. This saves possible problems with some of the higher order CVs being used for sound and some of the advanced light functions.
Good to see you back mate 👍
Great how-to to get started in Decoder Pro. One of the first things I aways do to fresh install of any decoder is use the factory reset function. Then take the loco off the track and let it reset. That will give you a "fresh" starting place.
Enjoyed your video very much. Lots of detail.
Hardest part of JMRI is the setup of the computer interface. If you stick with the basic 6 CV settings that should be more than enough to get started. CV 2 3 4 5 6 and 29 do the job nicely.
Good to see you back. Great video looking forward to more.
Thanks Ron you hit a few of the issues I have with my JMRI issues
Glad I could help.
Great video and a lot learn here. And I did enjoy learning about it and how to do it too. Thank you for this one and see you later!!!
Great video. Good to see you back!
Thanks, Ron. I'm sort of "gittin' it." one little bite at a time.............. Much obliged.
Good job Ron, nicely done!
Thanks, Ralph. Nice to hear from you.
Hey Ron, great video. My layout it has 2 reversing loops. On one of your videos from a few years back you mentioned having a reversing loop on your lower staging yard. I was wondering if you could do a video on how you wired you loop. Thank you
Steven.
I will very soon be expanding my staging yards and thus rebuilding my reversing loops, so yes, I will be doing that rather soon.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Awesome, I will be looking forward to that.
Great Video Ron.
Thanks Mike. Always good to hear from you.
@@RonsTrainsNThings You as well !!
good vid on your channel keep up the good vid on your channel thanks lee
I always enjoy your videos, and even though I may know how to do the things you are showing, I like to watch to see if someone has a better idea than the way I do it, but something I noticed. You didn't isolate the decoders motor tabs with the kapton tape. Maybe it isn't nessessary anymore on the new stuff, be we used to be warned to put it on the frame to keep the motor tabs from touching the frame and letting the smoke out of the decoder.
I am an HO modeler, but Decoder Pro is a topic I'm looking forward to learning more about - so thanks for covering this! Also, I have an old Apple MacBook Pro laptop that I will be replacing (probably this year) with a PC, so any advice you can offer about computer choices in an upcoming video would be appreciated.
Any computer that can run JAVA will work to run JMRI/Decode Pro. It is the interface to your DCC system that you need to worry about. Almost all DCC systems now use USB to interface to your computer and command station. Like Ron was using a Digitrax PR3 and a short sections of track to program decoders.
Like Tex said, pretty much any computer, and almost certainly any new PC, is going to work for this. It doesn't require anything particularly powerful. I will also be covering some more Decoder Pro topics soon, specifically speed matching.
Ron, great video on JMRI. Wondering, do you have a video on How you connected your Digitrax3 to you computer to interface with JMRI. I have had no luck with getting my PR3 to connect and talk to JMRI. Any suggestions on videos I can watch?
I have not made such a video, and I'm not computer expert enough to walk you through it except to say 2 things: 1) Connecting the two is the HARDEST part about using JMRI, and 2) When I have problems it is usually a matter of identifying the correct COM Port. You have to do this manually in JMRI. Google and consult the JMRI manual for more specifics.
Why didn't you have to put the tape on the chassis? I didn't and the decoder shorted out.
Always use the supplied Kapton tape on the frame where the tabs could contact the frame. Ron has demonstrated this before. I'm sure he just missed it this time.
Yes, I seem to have forgotten to mention/include that. Sorry for the mix up, but I will have opportunity to correct that next week. 🤔🤔🤔
Great as always - question - why don't you turn the analog sw/cv off?
This is a great video but I can't put it into practice. I'm trying to program a digitrax DH126D decoder using a Digitrax PR4 and Decoder Pro on a dedicated programming track. Whenever I try to write a new CV Decoder Pro says:
"302 - programmer busy. The command station has reported that it's busy doing something else, and can't do any programming right now. This usually means that some other part of the DCC system is doing a programming operation, e.g. a hand-held throttle.
Some DCC systems can't do ops-mode programming (programming on the main) while also using the service mode programming track, in which case they'll return this error message."
There is no other part of the DCC system that can be doing a programming operation such as a hand-held throttle. It is just the computer, the PR4, the programming track and the locomotive.
What's up?
everything is hooked up porperly but there is no ankowledgment from the loco. Plu if i do get the loco programmed, it will not operate
Ron, I was wondering when you have multiple engines. Are they all running at the same speed, or can one be slightly faster (slower) than others . Or does the JMRI programs stay pretty consistent in programing all at the same speed ?
Great video as always!
I will be doing a speed matching video very soon, but JMRI does not produce an automatic match in speed. You have to play with it more than that. You do want locos closely speed matched, although some variation can be tolerated. Watch for that video in a couple weeks.
Hi Ron, I know this might be a strange question but, how do you power your ESU LokProgrammer? Do you use the supplied power supply or do you have AC power supplied from somewhere else?
Geez, if ESU doesn't work with decoder pro, and I have a mac laptop, I also can't use ESU programmer:(:(
What is train size closest to the 1/64 truck size ??
S scale is 1/64.
Way more than i can do
Completely useless video, I tried following your instructions to upgrade the couplings on my model and now I can’t get the thing to go back together. I ended up with a model that works worse than before thanks to the lack of actual instructions in this video.