DCC Sound Decoder Installation N Scale
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2019
- In this video I want to show you a DCC Sound Decoder Installation in N Scale. I actually install 2 decoders in 2 Kato locomotives in this video--one motor only and one sound. Both are Digitrax deciders and one requires some home milling of the frame for the speaker.
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Outstanding instructional video. I’m a DCC beginner, and I have been completely overwhelmed by DCC until now. Your video(s) make me feel that there is some hope of getting these things working after all. Thank you!
There is so much in model railroading that is WAY overcomplicated for the average enthusiast for no reason, because the core audience are engineering geeks.
Nice work Ron. Thanks for posting your guide.
Very nice video with a lot of work and knowledge behind the screens for this production 🥇👍
Very useful video Ron.I find these types of "how to" tutorials one of my favorites ,you can never have too many decoder installation videos.Keep up the great job.
Thanks, Paul.
Excellent video, Ron. Congratulations on reaching 15k subscribers. Well earned.
Thank you much.
That was real helpful. Ya sure made it look easy. Mr. B.
thanks this both helped me understand DCC / decoder concept and feel confident in buying, instal;ling & options
Thanks Ron, Just purchased my first locomotive and digitrax decoder. A SD70ACE with the exact Digitrax decoder you used with the non-sound installation. I was worried about my installation once they arrived, but no longer. Many thanks for your videos! Probably be awhile before I attempt a decoder with sound.
Thanks for your work, helps me a lot
My phone vibrated in the wee hours of this morning and told me that this video was posted. The timing was perfect because I had literally just finished putting the shell back together on an Atlas N SD-50 that received a loksound (it put up a pretty good fight). The timing made me laugh, but I was too tired (from fighting all night to install the decoder) to watch it until now.
So, I assume your install was ultimately successful?
Yes, it was. Both SD-50s sound great, I will probably have to turn them down when running at the club layout.
Thanks for this video. I have installed the motor decoders before but have not done sound. After watching your video, I just might try it with one of my locomotives. Looking forward to the video on speed setting and rule 17,
Great install video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
Excellent video Ron. As usual, your method of instruction coupled with the way you capture everything on camera is extremely useful and informative!! And I'm an HO scale modeler...
Hi, Joseph. I try to explain as well as I can, and I try to make most of myi topics appicable to multiple scales. Thanks for watching.
I know it has been quite a while since this was posted but using a 1/2" forester bit for metal will work much better to make the holes for the speaker. You won't have to clean them up with a dremel as it cuts flat. They are like 8 bucks from Home Depot. Just a tip to help make things easier.
I am a wood worker, not highly experienced in metal milling. I wasn't even aware you could get a forstner bit for metal until now. Thanks for the tip.
Great Job of installing! the first sound decoder you need to mill out the fuel tank for the conpastor. and then you need to use a speaker baffle to direct the sound out. I don't like that one with the long speaker on it, it's not as loud. the last one with the round speaker if you take some tape and put it over the front of the speaker and drive the sound out the back. And mount if face down just like you did . It makes it about 10 times louder and on the fuel tank I drilled out the 1/2" hole and then put a screen over the hole to keep out the big stuff. Give that home made speaker baffle a test and see if it works better for you. Thanks for all the great videos, I find my self sitting by the computer waiting for your next one to show up!
Great video Ron. Always intimidating to get into the guts of a N scale Loco. You make it look easy.
It isn't as hard as it seems, just requires patience.
very good video i have done digitrax sound in kato ho before but not in n scale . i just did my first so far so good i found a milling bit set (it comes with 8 bits ) on micro mark and did exactly as you did with the drill bit it made a big difference.
You make that sound decoder install look like I could it too!
You probably could. It requires care and patience, but isn't difficult.
first off, grats on the 15k Sub's. Cool vid, greatly looking forward to the Speed matching. And as I have no idea what 'rural 17 lighting' is, it will be very informative. :)
Rule 17 means lights are always on in both directions--bright in the direction of travel and dim in the reverse direction.
I followed this steps by step; it was the only way I could get this done! Now I have to figure out why I don't have any sound!
Good video Ron, you make it looked easy but I did two on intermountain and only one worked need to see just what went wrong on the second one but now i feel a little more confident to do more....thanks for sharing....Jack 😉
Glad to hear that, Jack.
Great how to video Ron! Just a couple things I would recommend. While the engine is apart, it's a good time for some teflon lube on the gears, and light amount of conductive lube on contacts. Second of course would be an ESU decoder w/ sugar cube speaker, no milling required
ESU doesn't make a straight forward replacement board for Kato yet, so ESU is a little involved for this loco, but that is probably the way I will go.
in your next video your going to show us how to speed match them NICE!! I am looking forward to it =) and thanks for the demo on the installs. I'd love to see you do a pre DCC friendly atlas or kato,
Well, it won't be my NEXT video, but it will be coming soon.
An informative video even for a DC guy. You talked about laying things out in the order of disassembly. I would also suggest that a photo before each subsequent step would be useful, and with the phones of today, almost everyone has a camera in their pocket.
That is a good idea. I usually do this with anything vary complex. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. You make it look relatively easy to perform what I thought would be a difficult task. Thank You
Great video. You may want to consider a Taig mini milling machine.
On my Kato ES44AC I filed the pyramid shaped tab at the front of the shell under the light tubes just enough to be able to carefully place the capacitor into the hood and out of the way to facilitate placing the shell back onto the chassis. So far it doesnt seem to have adversely affected the fit or finish.
Awesome!
Great how to, thanks for sharing....Remco
Thank you.
I use the factory light board to light up my building. All I did was solder on some wires to the pick up plates and tape it to the top of the building.
That is a great idea. Thanks for the tip.
Yes, tricky fitting that speaker without a mini or micro milling machine (look at 'Proxxon'). But those are expensive, so three tips: Start by using a smaller 'four facet ground' drill (use Google for details). It is much less likely to wander. Then gently open the hole up with successively larger drills. Buy something called an 'end mill' in the same size as your final drill size. Use this to give a flat bottom to the hole but take care not to increase the central depth. Do not try to drill the initial hole with any end mill - it will skate about all over the place if both it and the workpiece are not held firmly in a proper milling machine. Finally, buy some suitaby sized drill stops. These are metal rings that clamp on around your drill bit and prevent you drilling too deep - all to easy to do. Using a small precision drill stand would also be a good idea and they are not that expensive. They give much better sideways and depth control than can usually be achieved by hand. This job is not for the faint hearted! Maybe find a friendly small engineering shop and buy them a beer or two. Good luck. BobUK.
Thanks for those great tips. Much appreciated.
The video was useful for installing the decoder but the sound either needs turned up or drill holes in fuel tank.
If these manufacturers would use a 4 ohm speaker instead of a 8 ohm the sound would be louder. Also you could add a second speaker in parallel which drops the impedance of the 2 speakers to 4 ohm each and takes less power to operate them. This is simple car audio knowledge. Also you could drop a bead of epoxy to set the back of the speaker in the chassis.
Good tips. Thanks, Adrien.
Ron, 15,000 subscribers, Big "UP'S" to you.Nice to see the replacement decoders installed with no hassle at all. Before re-conecting anything did you have to wash the basic chassis to clean away any swarf left behind? Even my fat fingers might be able to do this. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I did not wash it, just wiped it down with a cloth. This metal is non magnetic, so cleaning it up is pretty easy.
Great install video Ron, should help with future sound decoder installation, plus looking forward to seeing how you put rule 17 on a Digitrax decoder, can do it on NCE and TCS, but never worked out Digitrax 👍👍👍
Hi Ron, great video. You make it look easy! I assume you are using your new soldering iron here, curious as to what power setting you are using when soldering to a decoder. thanks.
I was using a very small tip and on the variable heat 40 watt iron I used a setting of 2 out of 5.
Hi Ron, great video! Did you ever make a follow-up video on the locomotive with the problematic SDXN146K1E decoder?
Just discovered your videos. Now subscribed. Do you have a video describing DCC turnouts? If needed for DCC layout?
Hi Ron love the videos!. In you opinion, what do you think the best dcc sound decoder is? I have recently got back into the hobby and currently have a new Broadway Limited GE AC6000 with Paragon3 Sound, I have a new Atas SD60E with LokSound Express, I have a new ScaleTrains GE CW44-9W with LokSound 5, and a new digitrax SDN144A1 decoder I installed into an old Atlas SD60M from the late 90's. The digitrax sound decoder is....well leaves a lot to be desired. It is the worst of the bunch. I simply don't like that one. The other three are pretty great in my opinion.
Ron, I’m sure these videos were done awhile ago, but have you thought about installing one of those new LokSound decoders in that third Kato? Do you prefer Digitrax Sound decoders? Given that the ESU decoders ate a bit more they are worth the difference.
Really can’t see this speed matching video. Everyone makes it look so hard in N scale.
Ron thanks for all you do and have done for us my friend. Peace be with you
I wouldn't say that I prefer digitrax decoders. I have used them for several years before the higher end sound decoders started coming out. I started with digitrax sound decoders for video because they are an easier installation. I thought about doing a loksound decoder in one of these, but they don't make a straightforward replacement decoder for a Kato locomotive. I would prefer to install a loksound in an Atlas locomotive for the sake of video. Since my digitrax decoder didn't Pan out in this case, I may be trying a loksound after all.
Thanks for the great video. I am getting back to model railroading again and am still deciding on either HO or N scale. That install with your milling went nice. Thanks for sharing. Did you ever have HO scale? If so, would you be able to make a short video about both scales and why you chose N. Thanks.
When I 1st got into model railroading I had planned to model in HO scale. I collected some hok scale equipment, but never built a layout. I experimented with in scale and never went back.
Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to the next video. 👍🏼
Hi Ron, nice and informative video however may I suggest that if your doing things with sound locos or scenery sounds you drop the usual accompanying background sound as it completely blotted out the loco sounds on this video. Looking forward to your next output.
Kind regards Dean
Yes, as I've told others, I should have cut the music when I started testing. Lesson learned.
Will this work for early 90's model f-9s, i have 3 of them
Do you have a video installing accesories to green and purple pads?
Hi Ron, great video. I know there are better sound decoders for n scale but do you recommend the digitrax sound decoders? Also what kind of soldering iron is that, i've been looking for one with a fine tip like the one you are using. Keep up the great videos.
Hola Ron Cómo estás? Muchas gracias por tus videos. Quisiera hacerte una consulta. Esto digitalizando esa misma locomotora, empleando un Digitrax SDXN136PS. El deco es reconocido, sin embargo, los sonidos son sólo chicharreos intentendibles. Además, las luz delantera, funciona si activar la función 0. Al activarla, deja de funcionar. La de marcha atrás, no tiene inconveniente. Me puedes ayudar.? Muchas gracias.
Hi Ron, thanks for sharing this tutorial. You did a good job installing those decoders. I have a Kato N scale ES44AC GEVO locomotive. Can I use the same decoder that you used in the last part of this video into my locomotive? Thanks
To answer that question use the Digitrax Decoder Selector. Here is a link: www.digitrax.com/products/engine-matrix/decoder/
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks Ron!
Hi Ron, how are you? Great video. Thank you very much for your contributions. Some time ago I bought 3 digits digitrax SDN144K1E, which I installed in three kato locomotives, GG1, SD40-2 and AC4400. In all three cases, when the sound is not deactivated, the docoder restarts within a few seconds of activating the locomotives. I was told that it could be caused by bad welding contacts, but by deactivating the sound, the locomotives work very well. You can help me find the problem, it is a shame not to be able to use the sounds. I use a central digitrax db150. Thank you.
I would say you have a bad contact somewhere. The reason it acts up with sound is because sound draws eignificantly increased voltave over motor only control. Check all of our contacts really well.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Ok thank you. I see the contacts. bye, bye....
@@RonsTrainsNThings thank you I will....rewards.
I disagree with not drilling holes...but drilling holes let the sound out more....good example is scaletrains n scale..some guys complaining there not loud enough..do to the tanks that don't have holes in them...took my set and drilled holes out and the made them more louder....I have an db app on my phone..I'm pulling 58-64 db with the prime mover sound....with the horns I'm pulling 71-82 db sound levels..
Wow, great jon, Is that a common amount of work to instal sound into N scale?
Yes, that's about normal.
what digitrax sound decoder do i use in a n scale kato c44-9w
great job keep it up i am new and have learned a lot.
i do have a question about dcc decoders. will the sound decoder work the loco? or do i have to install two decoders one for sound and one for control?
Hi Ken. No, the sound decoder contorls sound, motor, lights--all the features of the locomotive.
hi
i have a small question?
I'm looking to purchase a glacier express (kato 10-1145) but i want to know first if i'd be able to install a decoder in it and equip him with sound aswell. What would you recomend? Is my only option drilling a hole in the frame to fit the speaker? if so where?
thank you for your time :)
I am just wondering programing on the main....if you had another loco on tghe layout if you program the new one will it not effect the other? like the idea of putting the dc board in the jewel box. I do plan on installing a sound decoder and , is the same technic good for atlas locos? I drill out my frames with the dremel drill press with the apropriate cutting bit. works very well. good video
I have done that with my MRC and never a problem with other locos on the track
As long as you don't have any other locos with the same address you will have no problem. You are programming on the main to a specific address. That is why I did these separately, because they both were originally programmed to factory address 3.
Great Video as always (do you ever get tired of reading that? :)
I just purchased a Kato SD70ACe and will be installing the Digitrax DN163K1c (That sound module has me worried and I installed the sound system in a Kato D7 milling the back-end with just a dremel tool!) Anyway... I don't see any lights on the DN163K1c board. Is that right?
Thanks again! Charles
It definitely has lights, but they are tiny square LEDs mounted directly on each end f the board, so they camouflage well.
Thanks, brother, nice work, why Digitrax? Was ESU too expensive? Soundtraxx? Wish I had that wireless controller, my MRC is great, but a wireless would be fantastic...
Why Digitrax indeed. I have a fleet of Digitrax decoders, and in consists it is better to run the same brand decoders together usually. I also wanted to show an easier install before something more complicated, and in many cases ESU is an more complicated install. I will be doing some ESU installs in the future, probably starting with the loco that was a fail for this video.
Hey Ron..di you ever post the issues with speed matching?
Not yet. I'm planning to do it this spring. It might be a good COVID-19 crisis video.
Why is my SDXN136PS Decoder so quiet? Does something need to be programmed, or does the Foam rubber need to be removed?
Hi there everyone, I just purchased a new Kato ICE 4 train and Kato decoder for it. when I installed the plug and play type decoder I programmed it using the intellibox2, however when I run it, it runs unevenly like it surges in speed the slows off then surges again. I haven't installed the accessory decoders for the change direction red and white lights yet as I am awaiting delivery could it be that is part of problem, was just wondering if anyone out there has encountered a problem like this.
Hi there, new in the hobby I´m wondering what DCC is for? i have read that it will only add sound but can´t control 2 trains in the same track... from analog to DCC what is the up grade or difference? please let me know cheers...
DCC allows you to run your trains,not your track. In other words, you CAN run multiple trains in any direction simultaneously, and it simplifies the wiring. It can add sound too, but sound isn't a necessary component of DCC.
Hello , The One Thing you’re forgetting with any New Decoder Installations is always put Her on the Program Track First to Install Address that way if there is any shorted Wire or mis installed Wire she Won’t take the Address and being the the Program Track is Low Voltage you won’t Fry your New Decoder!🚂 Regards C&OGuy
The low voltage on some systems will sometimes not even have enough power to be able to program sound decoders.
Mike
Mike Fifer True on some Decoders on my Digitrax you can adjust your Program Track Voltage or use a Program Booster and avoid Problems ! C&OGuy
I have Programmed addreses inQS I , LOKSOUND T C S and DIGITRAX with no Problem! on the Program Track!
Very good information. I wish you had killed the music earlier when you tested the sound decoder.
Yes, I should have.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I like your channel Ron nice work. Have you tried ESU sound decoders? I know a guy putting the in Nscale even Atlas GP38s.
Yes, I plan to do some videos on ESU as well soon. I use Digitrax some because I have a fleet of them and I prefer to keep like brands together in consists.
Good morning,
I would like to change 2 already digital locomotives (N scale) to digital with sound.
I ask you: do you or can you tell me who does this type of work?
If so, assuming that I send you the two loco, I would like to know if possible, the procedure (if you need to completely replace the decoders or just change them) and, possibly the cost.
I would also like to know if it is more convenient to digitize an analog locomotive with sound or, as mentioned above, to modify an already digital one.
I thank you in advance,
Massimo -
To upgrade to sound would require replacing the decoder and adding a speaker. There are people who do this work. Your best bet would be to ask around in model railroad Facebook groups for people who do. As for which is easier, if the locomotive is DCC ready it doesn't matter. If it is an older locomotive that is not DCC ready it will be more difficult, but not impossiible.
Grazie a tutti per le cortesi risposte ma ho scoperto che la loco non era sound... per questo l'ho restituita. Grazie
Ora mi servirebbe di conoscere come si fa, con il multimaus, a mettere la F29.
Grazie
I want to do something different: I want to mount an external sound card, wired or via Bluetooth, to my external stereo (Bluetooth equipped) speakers to get better bass and fidelity. Why has no one done an extensive video on this topic?
I know there were systems for this, and BLI Rolling Thunder is similar, but most have been abandoned for onboard systems that travel with the train.
Thanks for doing this video but I could not hear the sound on the locos and the music in the background needs to go , i think.
Thanks for doing the videos.
Mike
Yes, I should have cut the music when I started testing the locos.
I agree about the music. I keep expecting someone in a ski mask and an ax to jump out.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks Ron , It was a great how to though.
Mike
@@RonsTrainsNThings I know it's a lot of work and time to incorporate that background music into your videos. But to be honest I didn't come here to watch a music video I came here to hear you and the trains clearly. I personally would like that you didn't include the music. One of the other You Tube channels I watch daily is Paul's Hardware and he recently had a discussion with viewers on this subject of background music and he has decided to remove background music from his videos as well. Keep up the great work, love the channel!
Rather than adding a DCC sound decoder to every one of my locomotives, is there a company making a trackside sound box like MRC did previously?
Kato has one. But for the price of that you might as well just buy a DCC controller and add DCC to a locomotive.
Now I know why there are so many DCC ready.locos on ebay. Nobody wants to take them apart. I would rather pay extra for dcc equipped. To me it would be worth it.
When I see that most decoders are not really plug and play, the work required by the installation and the most often, the poor quality of sound, I wonder if it is worth investing in adding sound decoder? Is it not better to buy factory equipped?
The sound quality is pretty good these days and getting better all the time. As for factory equipped, those usually use lower end decoders. I have not had good luck with them. The exception of course is scaletrains who uses loksound decoders.
The sound from an SD40 intermountain or BLI is very impressive. Mines are very very good.
Before, I was thinking to add sound decoder to my other locomotives, Atlas GP's. I tried with MRC and the result is not acceptable.
So, I think now I'll buy only dcc sound factory equipped but I'll not add by myself a sound decoder to a model. It is not even totally plug and play. I think that's a pity.
However your video is very interesting but this work is not so easy as it appears. @@RonsTrainsNThings
MRC are known to make the absolute lowest quality sound decoders on the market. Digitrax, Tsunami, or Loksound are the way to go.
Two years later..are you ready to convert these to ESU?
Depends. I love ESU decoders, but they are pricey. If sound, definitely. Digitrax sound is low quality. As for non sound, I'm perfectly happy with the Digitrax decoders I have, but future ones will be ESU.
You put your speakers in upside down friend.
No, I didn't. I installed them exactly per the instruction sheet from Digitrax. Installing them this way allows the cavity to act as a resonance chamber which deepens and enhances the quality of the sound from the tiny speaker.
@@RonsTrainsNThings i have tried both ways, but the masses put them so the sound projects down, and drills the tank bottom. when i tried your way the sound into a blind hole was horrible (to me).
The background audio destroyed the whole test. We couldn't hear anything.
The background music covers the engine. Dump the music.