Tractor supply fine for bearings and hiem joints. I like to use auto components for rebuild or replace ability. Chain driven differential is a game changer. Infinity, vw, jaguar, Subaru and Volvo all use 96mm axle flanges.
@@boostedbiker3878 took me 3 tries to fully understand how forces work against you if not careful. Krosscart w/o diff is just a go cart with too much power. Understeer viscious when under a acceleration. Always used gear reduction chain drive in sleds to get gearing right but I'm building a rear diff currently that literally has the secondary pulley on diff input. Eliminating 110 pounds of spinning stuff. 11.1/1 ratio gives me top speed of 57mph with 19" tire. Change to 22" adds up to 74.5mph. Only belt drive buggy geared one is grind hard and the odyssey build. They used existing diff. Most golf cart have 11-12/1 and that's what you want. My 670 spins the secondary at over 10,000 rpm. That's almost 3 times a typical clone or vtwin rpm.
The main arm length was not determined specifically but rather was mounted to a convenient point. One thing you have to make sure of is that the main arm mounting point has to be at the same height as the center of the spool. Also the longer the arm the less camber change and more travel you have. Ours is 26" to the bend. Once the main arm was complete the bearing carrier and axle were installed and were set to neutral position. From there the rods were cut to fit. Also the center of axis of the spool needs to be in the middle of the two rod mounting points on the frame or travel will be significantly reduced.
I suggest a chain drive differential. This and a precise rack and pinion complelty dialed in my 3 link. My engine is mounted below my secondary shift by using original chassis bucket from sled. 12 /60 final drive. 59.7 mph on paper. Gonna make a Sway bar from a spud bar. I used infinity Q7 rear diff and 6 bolt flanged axles. Also on your initial bend you can rotate expansion pipe 360° without affecting resonances too much.
Awesome Summary...I'm gong traditional with double Wishbone Suspension for my first build. After that i might try a 3-Link as i will have about 200HP in the 2nd build.
i have a 900 thundercat motor in mine . i went through more than you can image and in the end i went 4 link triangled . its easy and holds power . i did the rocklizard 2.0 style frame . 8 inch toyota axles with diff guards motor sits sideways with drive shaft to suzuki sameri transfercase with brakes on caseshaft . foa 2.0 14 inch travel shocks with duel rate springs and micro bump stop . 27x10x14 interco bogger tires on stock toyota steel wheels bead are drilled and self tapped every 2 inchs . took me a bout 3 months to buy and weld then poweder coat .
I want to build I 5 link, I read your comments about the 3 link and the measurements and such, what is the difference when making a 5 link and how should I go about it
I plan to build the smoothest riding golf cart possible. Possibly starting with a Rirty R82S tube chassis. Which front and rear suspension will give me the smoothest ride on a golf course? It may end up being 4wd. And will be electric powered. It may get used on atv trails but nothing serious. Any ideas for suspension or frame kit that could be modified to give easy entry and exit? Thanks...
hello im having trouble with making my 3 link suspension no matter what i tried the suspension bottoms out very quickly, i barely have a few inches of travel, i have plenty of axle plunge to play with also! im believe my mounting points for my links may not be in the right spots and causing it to bind up?
First check to make sure that every rod end is a him joint, if not the system will bind up. Second the connecting rods at the back should be parallel and the cv axle should be parallel to the rods when the system is flat. The mound in the front should also be at the same height as the center of the spool.
@@jdsgarage701 thanks.. how about for the rwar..? I need the shocks for the rear, because I build an off road go kart from scratch... it has a gy6 engine with the rear a arms of a yamaha Kodiak 4x4.. I need an avarage on the lbs neded for the back.. 😕
Hey I’ve built a 3 link suspension on a buggy but I’ve notice a significant amount of toe change and am having trouble aligning the toe at ride height is this a common issue
The further away you are from level the more toe change you will have. This kart has a lot of toe change at the extreems but very little in the middle 12". One thing to note is the narrower you have your main link near the front the the less toe change you'll have but the more camber change you'll have. If you have the same joints wider out its the opposite. We found the trick is to try and keep ridehight within 4" of level.
@@jdsgarage701 ok I finished my suspension today. I think my ride hieght may be set at 4 inches or close to it below level I haven’t measured tho. I just set the toe at zero at that spot and I figure it will toe in about a quarter inch at the front of the tire when the suspension is compressed and that should be exceptable
Love to see more options for a chain drive diff or spools, along with driveshaft options. Simple using tractor supply parts to modified car parts.
good luck with tractor supply stuff
Tractor supply fine for bearings and hiem joints. I like to use auto components for rebuild or replace ability. Chain driven differential is a game changer. Infinity, vw, jaguar, Subaru and Volvo all use 96mm axle flanges.
@@jaydensdream714 just getting into cross carts. Thanks for bringing up the chain driven differential.
@@boostedbiker3878 took me 3 tries to fully understand how forces work against you if not careful. Krosscart w/o diff is just a go cart with too much power. Understeer viscious when under a acceleration. Always used gear reduction chain drive in sleds to get gearing right but I'm building a rear diff currently that literally has the secondary pulley on diff input. Eliminating 110 pounds of spinning stuff. 11.1/1 ratio gives me top speed of 57mph with 19" tire. Change to 22" adds up to 74.5mph. Only belt drive buggy geared one is grind hard and the odyssey build. They used existing diff. Most golf cart have 11-12/1 and that's what you want. My 670 spins the secondary at over 10,000 rpm. That's almost 3 times a typical clone or vtwin rpm.
Awesome video with great info, much appreciated. Would like to know how you came up with the 3 link mounting measurements and rod lenghts.
The main arm length was not determined specifically but rather was mounted to a convenient point. One thing you have to make sure of is that the main arm mounting point has to be at the same height as the center of the spool. Also the longer the arm the less camber change and more travel you have. Ours is 26" to the bend. Once the main arm was complete the bearing carrier and axle were installed and were set to neutral position. From there the rods were cut to fit. Also the center of axis of the spool needs to be in the middle of the two rod mounting points on the frame or travel will be significantly reduced.
What size heim joints did you use
I suggest a chain drive differential. This and a precise rack and pinion complelty dialed in my 3 link. My engine is mounted below my secondary shift by using original chassis bucket from sled. 12 /60 final drive. 59.7 mph on paper. Gonna make a Sway bar from a spud bar. I used infinity Q7 rear diff and 6 bolt flanged axles. Also on your initial bend you can rotate expansion pipe 360° without affecting resonances too much.
Would like to learn more from you about both rear and front suspensions. Particularly the 5 link
Awesome Summary...I'm gong traditional with double Wishbone Suspension for my first build. After that i might try a 3-Link as i will have about 200HP in the 2nd build.
i have a 900 thundercat motor in mine . i went through more than you can image and in the end i went 4 link triangled . its easy and holds power . i did the rocklizard 2.0 style frame . 8 inch toyota axles with diff guards motor sits sideways with drive shaft to suzuki sameri transfercase with brakes on caseshaft . foa 2.0 14 inch travel shocks with duel rate springs and micro bump stop . 27x10x14 interco bogger tires on stock toyota steel wheels bead are drilled and self tapped every 2 inchs . took me a bout 3 months to buy and weld then poweder coat .
I want to build I 5 link, I read your comments about the 3 link and the measurements and such, what is the difference when making a 5 link and how should I go about it
I plan to build the smoothest riding golf cart possible.
Possibly starting with a Rirty R82S tube chassis.
Which front and rear suspension will give me the smoothest ride on a golf course?
It may end up being 4wd. And will be electric powered.
It may get used on atv trails but nothing serious.
Any ideas for suspension or frame kit that could be modified to give easy entry and exit?
Thanks...
whats a good suspension for jumping on a fast side by side
Are you using the RZR hub with the 5 link setup? How are you mounting it and where are the links attaching to the the carrier housing?
The 5 like is just an example we didn't make it.
why not 6 link rear suspension?
Try a De-Dion axle with a Satchell Link.
hello im having trouble with making my 3 link suspension no matter what i tried the suspension bottoms out very quickly, i barely have a few inches of travel, i have plenty of axle plunge to play with also! im believe my mounting points for my links may not be in the right spots and causing it to bind up?
First check to make sure that every rod end is a him joint, if not the system will bind up. Second the connecting rods at the back should be parallel and the cv axle should be parallel to the rods when the system is flat. The mound in the front should also be at the same height as the center of the spool.
Pour moi 3 link sans hésiter, repris par Can Am sur tout les SSV.
Hi.. Would you know where I can get info on which shocks to use on my homemade bugy..? I can't find anything.
Atv or front snowmobile shocks work best. Side by side shocks are too big. 120lbs springs seem to work best.
@@jdsgarage701 thanks.. how about for the rwar..? I need the shocks for the rear, because I build an off road go kart from scratch... it has a gy6 engine with the rear a arms of a yamaha Kodiak 4x4.. I need an avarage on the lbs neded for the back.. 😕
@@jdsgarage701 Nevermind.. I got two 540lbs and they are soft.. I hope with some adjustment and some nitrogen migth help..
There must be a difference beween the spring rate and max load..
@@coquikarts Spring rate is really the only thing that matters. 120lbs/inch seems to be a good fit for most people.
Hey I’ve built a 3 link suspension on a buggy but I’ve notice a significant amount of toe change and am having trouble aligning the toe at ride height is this a common issue
The further away you are from level the more toe change you will have. This kart has a lot of toe change at the extreems but very little in the middle 12". One thing to note is the narrower you have your main link near the front the the less toe change you'll have but the more camber change you'll have. If you have the same joints wider out its the opposite. We found the trick is to try and keep ridehight within 4" of level.
@@jdsgarage701 ok I finished my suspension today. I think my ride hieght may be set at 4 inches or close to it below level I haven’t measured tho. I just set the toe at zero at that spot and I figure it will toe in about a quarter inch at the front of the tire when the suspension is compressed and that should be exceptable
Looks like that double wishbone has trailing arm too.
I'm guessing thats for the sway bars, you couldn't add a trailing link to an A-arm setup as everything would bind and be over-constrained