I made this was more complicated than it needed to be
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- I finally figured out how to PROPERLY drill and tap acrylic and it made this build so much nicer!
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As a machinist/welder/fabricator myself, I am very proud of how far you've come with this kind of stuff Jay.
Best way to learn is by doing. Never let negative people get you down from learning.
Well done my friend.
So I'm going to ask this here since you probably know what's up. I always learned that when tapping you should reverse a bit after every full turn to break off the swarf. Is that legit? Is it applicable to plastic or only metal (or bad advice)?
@@adamjive653the tap should have gaps that remove all that stuff between the actual cutting pieces.
@@adamjive653 you turn it back to break and release the chip. You don't want the removed material to stay in.
@@adamjive653 I'd say it really depends on the material from my experience. But I've never had a situation where it hurt to back it out. Using a hand tap I will automatically back it out a bit every time I have to reposition my hands. (So every 180 degrees turn it back 30-45 and continue)
With Jay's setup pretty much making any tactile feed back impossible from turning the belt gear above to know if it's gripping or otherwise, I'd be backing it off often. After biting in past the chamfer on the tap.
@@Hell4Gamers Exactly, I was taught to always turn back the Tap or Die for that matter every half turn to keep the cutting edges clean otherwise it can cause issues.
Hi Jay! Former drill press operator, current precision machinist here. A few notes. First, the runout (wobble) in the drill is not necessarily the bit (though it probably is) and can also happen with the fancy expensive bit. Chucks, especially inexpensive drill chucks, inherently have some runout, and it will vary depending on where in the scroll (the spiral that makes the chuck jaws open and close) the jaws are. Unless the gripping surface of the jaws have been machined or ground true to the taper holding the chuck into the spindle, they will not grip consistently, and even if they have, it will get less consistent the farther they go from the position they were in when made true to the axis of rotation. Visual inspection at the least is important if you want to drill anywhere near round and on-size. Second, the difference in the ease with which the drills cut is due to sharpness, not material. Third, that drill press table probably stands no chance against the higher quality drill. This is where material DOES make a difference, as the cheap drill is made from cheap steel, whereas that expensive drill is probably a high-quality steel that can drill through that table at the proper rpm and pressure in no time with very little negative effect, even without lubrication. The runout thing was the most important bit here, as it has the highest chance to bite you in the butt if you're not aware of it. Hope this helped, love the channel! Keep doing cool stuff, I'm excited to see you go to new levels with case mods, they're my favorite videos of yours to watch!
Edit: wrote the above while the video was still playing, then saw you catch the new bit running out. Nice.
drills naturally make triangular holes if a center drill is not used and the drill tip is able to wobble. I always start off with a center drill followed with an undersized drill before drilling to final diameter because of this. Standard length HSS drills are flexible enough that having a ridged high precision mill doesn't really help anything. I have to use either extra short drill bits or indexable carbide drills if I want to drill precision holes and skip center drilling followed with undersized drilling.
@seanjournot7115 yup. same thing happens if they've been hand sharpened and the tip is off-center or the angle is different on either side. I've done that intentionally to make a beginning for a triangular hole so I had less filing to do, since I don't have any broaches.
A spot drill with an equal or larger angle than the twist drill would be even better than a center drill that's usually 60° for centers on lathes.
Jay, you and your team make this channel an absolute blast to watch!
Well to be fair it would be pretty dull without them.
Unlike the other team they keep locked in the basement.
The random shenanigans they get up to sometimes is just hilarious. They're type of humor is my kind of humor.
It's awesome to watch someone work through the process of learning a new skill. Especially when we get the benefit of learning from their mistakes. Thanks Jay.
Jay, you can buy a pointed pin to fit in the drill press chuck. If you use a proper tap wrench you will be able to run the pin down into the dimple into the back of the tap. This will let you apply pressure while keeping it straight.
That, and I don't think he was turning backwards every once in a while to break the chip. That'll make tapping feel a lot less sketchy.
Yeah, I was going to suggest the samt thing. He should watch a few videos from some of the TH-cam metal workers.
spring loaded tap guide
Can also just chuck up a philips/pozi screwdriver of the right size if you cut the handle off, even the cheap ones all your furniture and random purchases tend to come with are usually more than good enough these days, being smooth and straight. Obviously not the best option, but when you have junk screwdrivers handy... The best sort of shop bodge, one that works flawlessly with very little effort and the junk you have on hand.
This is a good option.
Hi Jay, I admire you for trying this project. Looked great at the end. If you are going to do this often, there are special drill bits for different materials. Bits for Plexi, acrylic, Lexan ect... You'll notice that these types of bits have a different angle. They look kind of like a curved arrowhead, but the angle is much steeper. You can also get diamond bits that look like a core bit. Use WD-40 for lube, it's better than water. 100% Synthetic motor oil, Amsoil or Mobile 1, works even better. NEVER BUY BITS FROM HARBOR FRIEGHT!!!! They will break and hit you in the face or eyeball. Hope this helps, enjoy the project :)
When drilling acrylic you need a drill bit that is very sharp but has a different cutting angle so it doesn't self feed the bit into the material. The term used to be called brassing a drill bit where you would take a stone to a regular bit and change the angle. Keeping it cool is also very important as well.
Soft materials need a sharper bit than hard materials and some like plastics and brass need a slightly different geometry. And lower drill speed as well.
Oh and your shop is not a mess..
lol yeah him calling his shop a "mess" is hilarious XD my tiny home shop looks like a bomb went off and its clean and organized compared to many others shops haha
Everything he says. Especially the "mess" part.....
If you open the vertical drill hood (top cover) you'll see a belt between motor and rotor; adjustig the belt in different position you'll have a different speed rotation. It is like a bicycle gearbox.
I would be surprised if that one has more than 4 speeds.
It doesn't. He used the top to hand tap the threads.
You even see it for a bit on camera lol
10:35, sounds like he already has it going as slow as this model is capable of.
@@dslynx sad part is, trying to find a drill press that is capable of going slow is difficult. Better off buying a mill. Entirely different class of tool, but everything a drill press can do a mill can do better. Nothing other then drilling can a drill press do that a mill does.
This is inspiring. I've never seen Jay so excited I was hooked on the whole video. Thank you Jayz whole team for being so passionate about your work so that it can shines and resonate that much with people. I love the more intimate approach to videos and the inclusion of others members on the camera also. Keep it up guys, this is wholesome.
hey Jay, for your drill press, if you look down inside the pulley that you are rotating by hand, you should see a nut that you could throw a socket on :) i was going to suggest getting a centering tool that you can chuck up in the drill press, then use your t-handle tap holder. the die has a little center spot on the rear of it for keeping the tap centered in a lathe or something. they make self tensioning tap centers, if you ever find yourself tapping a lot of holes. its super easy :) cheers Jay!
I have done it just turning the chuck by hand. It's worth it for a good and square thread.
There are also attachments for tapping with a drill press and special high speed taps to go along with them. It has gears and a clutch. You start with a bit of pressure, and let go when it grabs. It pulls itself down, and once it reaches a set depth it goes in reverse, and comes back out. Not cheep though.
@@Bob-of-Zoid I was going to mention turning the chuck instead of the pulley, too. But I'm also much shorter than Jay and would be able to reach the top of the drill press without standing on something XD
@@KevinIrish You wouldn't like my full size industrial drill press then: It's 6' tall.
Just chuck the tap turn the press drill on stop it and use the momentum to start the tap after back off by hand repeat and you can finish it by hand when you sure it's started straight
Hoping they used red threadlock on pulley nut. I'd just grab drill chuck with my hand and turn it. Grasshopper, you are no match for my monkey grip of steel!
Great video, some suggestions:
1. Coated drills are not great (in most cases) for plastics , you want an uncoated drill.
2. if you want to tap by hand there are tools that make life easier , if you search for "Tap Handle" .
3. there are machine taps (for machines i.e. CNC machines) and hand taps for doing it manually.
4. the chamfer on the tap is a partial pitch, you want to go past the "cone" or partial pitch to ensure you cut the full profile.
I base it on my past experience as someone who delt with such products for work.
** update, the comment was written before I watched the full video..
love the work you guys do, keep it up.
For the tapping you could look into getting a tap follower for your press. As long as you don't move the work between making and tapping the hole everything will still be square and concentric (as much as it was before at least).
If you didn't know, the tap follower would go into the chuck on your drill press. You may have to adjust where the piece you are tapping up or down to fit the tap follower, but so long as it doesn't move left or right, the tap will be in the same place as the hole you drilled. Take a look at your tap, see that dimple at the top of it? That's where the follower goes to align your tap.
Hi Jay I love the fact that you are happy to share the journey with us including all the screw ups. That is how your viewers learn new stuff and set realistic expectations for their project, rather than just seeing it all go right seemingly the first time. Thanks for sharing so much.
Jay, your epiphany about using the drill chuck as a tap holder is impressive. Shows your mechanical intuition is at a high level. And, yes, excellent choice getting away from the tapered tap. Your machining skills are evolving. They will serve you well when you really start serious and precision modding of cases and components. Only change I would have suggested with the drain port is go lower even though that spot was narrow, you could always install the fitting and main tubing piece, THEN install the reservoir/pump and add the drain fitting last. Great Job! Can't wait to see the final result!
My rig is just a boring closed black case under a desk. I don't want it any other way. But I love to see what you and others want and can do with cases. And I like the content you and your team are making. Even the "mistakes" that are being made, which I classify as the road of learning.
also part of the build it and never look at it crowd
Hey, Jay!
I'm 68 & I've worked as a plant mechanic & done some machine shop work, too.
You can use a light oil, like "3-in-one" oil or WD40, it will help cut smooth holes & keep your tooling cool too.
Good luck, remember, whatever can go wrong, WILL!
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Just wanted to thank you for the last video! I had been putting off drilling into acrylic for my 3D printer's doors and after seeing you learn how to do it, I was able to do it successfully! So, I will always appreciate the videos of you learning how to do things, since that's the way I happen to learn too. ^-^
Jay, get a set of acrylic drill bits. IF you're not using acrylic drill bits the last thing you want to use is a sharp metal drill bit, it needs to be just a tad on the dull side.
Acrylic drill bits have a shallow angle as compared to metal drill bits, 60 degrees vs 120. Next cover the acrylic where you are drilling with masking tape as this helps to not let the drill bit grab the acrylic. Yes, a drill press is great to control the feed rate and clamped to a piece of wood, so it doesn't crash through. I worked as a plastic fabricator and have never used water when drilling. Forty years in the sign industry speaking here.
Hey Jay, the best way to cut threads is to use a tap wrench which will have a handle both sides to allow even pressure as you go and when cutting go half a turn forward then back off a quarter turn, this allows the bit to cut off the excess swarf as you go, great content, keep it up
edit: finished the video, you got the handle, cool and using the press drill manually was a good idea, just if you do more tapping, try to remember the half forward, quarter back 👍
Came here to say exactly this! Good advice.
do you need to half forward, quarter back with acrylic? i know for metal its to make sure the chips dont clog the tap up but with acrylic would it even be a problem
Yep. Especially about the forward/backward cutting technique. It's been 40 years since I tapped holes in metalwork at high school. But I remember that part.
@@MSusername69 I actually don't know for Acrylic, I just thought it best to err on the side of caution considering the expense
This was super fun watching.
Can't wait what's coming next.
I love those DIY projects.
Fun watching you figure out the process. I would have recommended turning the chuck by hand but the pulley works too I suppose. Now I'm waiting for the video where you make your own custom res from acrylic blocks.
Glad to see your recovering well & back on the up & up Jay! Keep up the good work man👍
Jay, once you have the shop organized, you should get a dust colector, the same way they have on woodworking shops, to vacuum the bits from machining
My favorite bit about this whole thing is that it shows practice makes perfect, and the value of practicing a lot before you do the genuine thing.
Jay, when I drill plastic I prefer to use "step bits", because they are a almost complete cylinder they do not move around in the hole, also they make a real nice recess for a o-ring to seal into.
You did good jay, practicing before actually doing it is a wise way to go about it. The tool cost always sucks lol I’m a professional technician and I restore classic cars for a living so I have to make sure I have high quality tools to ensure a quality product
I've only tapped aluminum, but my understanding is you're supposed to do a full turn then back it out half a turn to give the material a chance to clear the chips in the hole. Might improve your success rate!
This is true for all materials. Gotta break up the long squiggly chips into small ones so they can be ejected out true the flutes.
Also, in a pinch, you can make a tap by grinding 3 flutes on the bolt/screw you want to use with a dremel.
This is true for straight fluted taps, this is because they are designed for open bottom holes.
If tapping blind holes you should use a spiral flute, with those you don't want to crack the swarf free as the spiral flute naturally evacuates the long swarf as a single stream
As a construction worker. I can definitely tell you, that you sir are learning the eay all professionals do. By doing the work, seeing what works for the situation, and ehat doesn't. Whatever you need to complete the task, and according to standards. Great work
Jay, you should use the painters tape on the spots you wish to drill through the acrylic to keep the drill press from cracking the acrylic when you drill through it. Most acrylic sheets come with a plastic protective sheeting on it to keep from scratching the surface until you are ready to cut it and use the acrylic for your application.
It sounded like he wasn't going to have tape on the spot of the hole at the start of the video, but he did cover the entire surface when doing the cutting later in the video.
@@_PatrickO Same thing with the backboard. He only has to cover around the drill hole. So he didn't have to cover it all with tape, and didn't need a backboard either. Just a tape on two sides. Personally I'd use fabric tape, like masking tape (as opposed to packing tape et al that has a plastic coat) because you can mark it with the point you want to hit, line it up so the centre of the bit hits that specific spot (the drill bit doesn't turn), and the reason for tape on the back is, like the OP said, to stop the cracking.
@@markhackett2302 He put tape over the whole thing to prevent scratches. Which makes sense because clamping it down to the drill press would have scratched the surface up.
This is very good instruction on how to drill acrylic, for any type of plastic you need good bits and they need to be sharp, so the next thing you need to learn is how to sharpen the drill bits, for tapping, there is a tap handle you can get for your drill press, it will make taping a lot easier
This channel should be 10M at least, the amount of free knowledge you present and just being the consumer advocate is something to be respected for and you sir, your team deserve respect
couple hacks for the drill press:
-look into those pass-thru socket wrench and use that in conjunction with a tap + chucking it up
- if you still have that 3d printer, maybe make a T handle adapter that takes the tap in one side and another end that goes into the chuck (maybe even have it work with the pass thru wrench!)
-instead of the massive wood clamps, they make little mini c-clamps (some come with pads too), much less invasive
- theres nothing stopping you from using a unibit on a drill press (though people will always judge you for it)!
Hope this helps!
Hey Jay ! Search for a tap follower to use with your drill press
I second this, plus a reasonably sized tap wrench. For smaller holes, a spring loaded centering punch that fits into the chuck would also be nice to prevent the bit from wanting to walk when starting. Machining is it's own rabbit hole of tools
I work at Home Depot. The best way to cut that type of plastic is with honeycomb to lubricate it. And also use a small vacuum to keep the work station clean
You can put the tap into your drill press if it will fit, and then hand turn the spindle into the plastic to start the tap.
This makes sure its 100% straights with the hole.
edited, just got to the point where you did it how i mentioned hah
ALSO YOU CAN USE THE CHUCK KEY FOR A LITTLE LEVERAGE jUST REMEMBER TO UNPLUG THE PRESS.
Just a few easy tips from a former machinist. If you tape the area you are drilling on the back side it will give you a cleaner cut that reduces chipping and flaking. If you tape the top side it will stop any micro scratches on the surface. Hazard fraught drills are never sharpened on center. If you measure the angle of the flat cutting edge and the length they will be different from side to side. Chamfer the hole previous to tapping for a very clean first thread. When chamfering before tapping make total diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the threads.
Btw I have learned so much from guys like you on here I owe you more than you know!
$150 a hole? doesn't sound that bad knowing it's so clean and tight
This was a fun video to watch. I have a CNC router in my garage and I always tried to use cheap end mills because "1/4" is 1/4" and finally decided to invest in a good set of end mills. Night and day difference. There's a clear reason why some bits cost 10x or more what others do
Thomas the train boo boo
Jay, they make tapping oil for acrylic but I've found that dish soap and water works pretty good, and cleans up "pun intended" pretty well. Most other oils will absorb into the rough edge where the acrylic was tapped and you can't get it out. Dawn dish soap with water washes right off and still provides enough lubricant to do the job. Mix soap to water about 1 to 10. You may also be able to use it while drilling as a cutting oil to keep the acrylic cool.
Thank you for saying “pun intended”. so many people say “pun not intended” when clearly they intend it lol
Anyway, that soap and water method works great to me too. I never thread without lubrication unless its something i dont care about. Acrylic on bare tap sounds terrible
I'm honestly so glad i found this channel, wishing you all tge very best. Hope you're enjoying your break from work👍
I never refuse a video about crafting, verry relaxing to watch.
Jay learns to machine :) Feed rates, tool type, setup... welcome to a whole new world of learning. This rabbit hole goes very deep :)
Nicely done Jay, I appreciate the fact that you will spend the needed $ to do thing the correct way and take us on the ride for us all to see and learn. The best part of this is HOPEFULLY EK will see this and make a change, many folks will not have the room, $ or nerve to do this on their once in a few years watercoollng build.
You can get a center for a lathe or a drill press and that will go into the back of a real tap handle or into the back of the tap itself.
Look into a used VariAC (Variable AC) It steps down the voltage from the wall so that you can use and tune the voltage to a lower level. This will allow you to run your AC induction and universal motors and such at a lower voltage and thus a lower RPM. Just plug the stuff in, and turn the dial on the top. They're great and not expensive for a cheap new one or for a used working one.
Edit: great work Jay. Clean outcome. And outcomes are what anyone really cares about when the receive it. And good on you for trying to do it better and right! Kudos! 👍
Love to see youre still learning new stuff about watercooling and taking us through the whole process. Most only show the result, you show the trail and error which i appreciate alot
Love these type of videos. Watch all your videos, but these are my favorite type. Perfect timing, needed an entertaining release after 11 hours of customer service today.
I see all these tools and can't stop thinking "IT'S A WRITE OFF". Love it Jay & crew!
Next Step: Milling your own custom distro plates! Love all the custom work you're doing on these cases!
Jay there is a block of metal with different sized holes used to align bits/taps. Maybe get a forstner bit for cleaner cylindrical holes.
Hey Jay! When you're cutting with the tap after about 3/4 of a rotation. Do a 1/4 rotation in the opposite direction. Itll help break the chips that are forming and the tap will feel smoother as you continue on.
Also as stated above. Get a centering point that you can install on the drill press and get an actual tap handle. Then you can use the drill press to keep everything perfectly perpendicular and with proper pressure as you turn the tap. A comment from earlier explains it better!
chug chug chug = Chatter; The shrieking from the cheap bit indicates that it needs to be sharpened, that is a skill set all on its own. Jay the different flute tapers are specifically designed for the purpose of starting a thread and then finishing the thread, Start a thread with the most tapered flute, then move on to the #2 Tap, then onto the #3 Tap, the final tap (#3) has no fluting and it finishes the thread to the correct thread pitch and diameter. The same goes for Die's start with the most fluted then fiinish with the least fluted.
Well done! Life is a journey. Enjoy the ride.
While I've never messed with Acrylic, I am pretty impressed with the work you did! I have my own little table top drill press that I use for all kinds of metal work in my garage. It's an awesome addition to a tool set for any kind of project. The first thing I did with mine when I got it was drilled a bunch of random holes in a block of wood just because it was fun.
Now at my day job I'm ramming large taps into galvanized metal parts at around 650-700rpm using a new device called a Tapmatic.
I'm glad to see you've learned a lot! Great! Pro-tip for tapping holes, if you chamfer them a bit before hand it helps the tap go in easier and straighter as well as negating the need for a debur afterward.
Probably won't ever do a build like this; but I appreciate you taking us along for the ride.
an idea for your drill is to have a shopvac on low to suck up any accrylic leftovers, just hold the hose close to the drillbit, look up any youtube video on proshops drilling bowlingballs and you will understand. great videos every time.
I am glad to see you are enjoying the learning experience. It is safer to just turn the chuck by hand for tapping instead of cranking on the pulley.
the right tool for the right job . . makes things so much easier
YES good start of a shop build..I love it
You can still put a spring-loaded center in the chuck to keep your tap perpendicular, even if you are manually turning it. Also a tap wrench is highly recommended - the pair of handles helps you keep the forces balanced and prevent it from going in at an angle as well
For threading use cutting fluid. Red spirits work well for acrylic.
Also for every half turn forwards you back off a quarter turn to cut the chips. This reduces pressure on the sidewalls.
Hi Jay, I rely on my drill bits every day as I am in the industrial maintenance field. I can tell you that drill bits are precision tools and I have tried harbor freight bits and found multiple bits that weren't straight and tip angles ground poorly( that's your squeeling). The best value I have found for a good all purpose drill bit is the milwaukee red helix bits. Also if you are going to be drilling purely Acrylic they make special bits with special tips specifically for Acrylic, bite the bullet and just buy a set you will not regret it.
there are special drill bits for drilling in acrylic/polycarb etc. has a different point profile to avoid breakout.
also, someone mentioned a pin for the chuck to center your tap. there are also spring loaded tap guide to index a tap perfectly vertical that you can chuck into a drill press.
if you figure you're going to be doing this kinda thing often, you might want to consider those tools.
I love the channel, I've learned so much about hardware and software from you guy's. But what I really enjoyed was watching your evolution in using the equipment that was relatively new to you and how you figured the best way to drill and tap perspex/acrylic. Just a tip, when tapping with the tap in the pedestal drill, twist the chuck with your hand not the pulley stack, it's easier on you and the tap you get a better feel for whats happening.
If you are going to be cutting mostly acrylic and other plastics, look into getting specific drill bits for plastic. They have a much sharper point (60deg) than most wood or other drill bits (118deg or 135deg) making them have lower friction in soft materials which helps eliminate cracking and chipping.
Hey Jay - at 6:45, you were talking about a thing that exists (kinda). There is such a thing as a spring loaded tap follower made for using in a drill press/milling machine. It allows you to mount the tap into the part, and it keeps it perfectly perpendicular to the piece you're tapping. It has a spring loaded pin that is located by the spindle of the machine and the bottom is the tap pointing into the hole you just drilled. Perfect taps every time, and it's not power operated, it has small handles to turn by hand so you still have full control and feel.
You're welcome. :)
Jay says it out of love when he says see this EK. Love this channel and have learned so much.
The Myth, the Legend, the JayzTwoCents!!! Very well done sir!!! Thank you for the content!!!
Jay when you tap a hole, back the tap out a thread to clear the chips after every 2 to 3 turns. You'll notice the tap will become alot easy to turn. Also you for sure need some kind of cutting oil for the tap. Not trying to be a know it all. Been a cnc machinist for 12 years
This is great Jay. You have gave me the confidence to try this myself. This is going to look amazing when you finish this. Thank you
I've enjoyed the process - part of learning is making mistakes. I think this is a super important video
this is reason i subbed to this channel all those years ago ... love seeing this kinda stuff .. very relatable and gives me confidence maybe one day when the need arises i might be able to do it
Glad to see it working for you, I would say you do need to add 2 more things to your tool kit. #1, an Actual, Proper, Tap Wrench...doing it with a ratchet makes things a lot harder. The other thing is a Tap Guide, it chucks into your drill press, and has a spring-loaded plunger that fits into the back of the tap. it allows you to put a bit of pressure on the tap, lock your spindle, and concentrate on tapping your piece straight. Neither item is expensive, but both an do wonders to make this easier and more precise in the future. Hell, I might even Have a spare tap guide in my parts bin. If I Find it I'll send it off to you
Jay's holes are the best! No one knows how to drill a hole better than Jay.
We all have to begin somewhere. All master started somewhere. Nothing wrong with documenting your learning journey.
WD-40 works well as a lubricant for drilling/tapping acrylic. Did a bunch of work as a machinist with the material. Great work, love your channel.
Talking about first times, being scared, reminds me of welding. I was afraid of messing up, along with other various reasons, but over time, I got decent. Been awhile since welding, might go through that process again.
Great job jay , by the way next time try to use Wd40 spray a little on your drill bit way smoother and cleaner cut. If your having difficulty on your tubing lay out, bending, measuring or to angle properly hook me up and I will gladly try to help or give you tips to make it better. Have a good one and enjoy what you are doing cheers!
Loved this video. Honestly, no shop is complete without even a cheapo drill press. The precision is just so nice to have compared to hand tools.
Jay, when you tap the wholes, always go 3 steps forward and 1 step back to break the chips inside the tap. It will go a lot easier and lowers the risk of shattering because there is less stress on the material. You can also use some oil or DW40 so it comes out cleaner and again lowering the risk of shattering while making it easier to turn.
This is unironically my favorite video I’ve seen of yours.
Hey Jay. I'm a cnc machinist. I would use a screw drill. Which is a short stubby drill. Won't be so long. Water is ok to use. Cutting oil is great. I cut into a lot of acrylic. You get a better finish. NPS OR NPT Pipe thread. Looks great. Just food for thought. Cheers.
@jay you want a tap follower to use the tap in the drill press.
It uses a spring to keep pressure in the dip that's on the back if your taps and will keep it straight.
you can use a spring loaded live center from a lathe in the spindle of the drill press to keep the tap axially in line with your material.
You can use a round pointy piece of metal in the drill press. The tap has a dimple in the end. Use the drill press to hold the tap perfectly straight. Use an open ended wrench to turn the tap while applying slight downward pressure with the drill press.
This opens up so many options, great result!
Jay if you look at the top of your tap - it has a hole for a "tap follower" - you could chuck up a smooth point or even a drill bit, then simply apply pressure from your drill press to the top of your tap with the point - it will make sure you're straight and let you take your hands off the T handle 😊
I LOVE seeing the DIY stuff like this, because this is the kind of stuff I would love to do in my spare time. Thanks for making me feel stupid with the H9 front glass, I never realized it came unscrewed. I thought it was riveted in place. Now I have to go back and watch part 2 for the radiator selection to find rads that will actually fit this case, since NZXT decided to make the anchor point for 120/140MM cooling close to the motherboard, rather than closer to the glass. Only bad thing I can find in this otherwise beautiful case.
Great work!
There are many paths to the same destination. Just be proud of the journey.
(Of course it's always good to learn shop processes, workflow, and etiquette. But all that will come in due time.)
Awesome job to Jayztwocents and team!
"Today is gonna be the day that they're gonna throw it back to you
And by now, you should've somehow realised what you gotta do"
Now I can't get it out of my head. Thanks for the earworm Jay.
When you are tapping, try a foreword and back motion. This helps clear the chips/debris so it wont tighten up as much.
Something you might try is changing your drill press chuck to Collett allows mill bits and taps to be used. Not sure if its possible with your drill press so keep that in mind. Also using a milling bit might be possible but not really designed for this. Basically you have to move the work piece instead of the mill head. Basically your jury rigging
The trick with drilling various materials is to chose the right speed of rotation, the right cooling fluid and the right pressure for the material.
Of course the correct drill bit is also important. There are different angles and some plastic materials tend to melt or "glue" together with the bit.
Homie, I'm a self taught woodworker with my own business now, and you're going through a TON of the same steps I did when I was learning; but you're doing it faster. The stuff you need to learn is so niche that you can just hone in on one aspect, and that's awesome. Good on you for branching out and learning new skill sets. That's awesome, and all us makers love to see it.
Hard to watch not being able to tell you what you could do, but definitely wholesome to see you learning and figuring things out like we all did as greenhorns in a shop. Now I see why the old timers held back info sometimes and just watched.
Quick tip jay, that pedestal drill, the belt in the top can be changed in order to slow the speed of the drill/tap. There should be a release bolt on the motor, you pull the motor toward the front of the drill, adjust the belt to a slower speed then push the motor back away from the drill and tighten the the locking bolt back up.
It's summertime & that means Jay drops a ton of watercooling vids ... LET'S GOOOOOO!!!!! @jayztwocents I'm literally waiting on a few more parts so I can begin my downsizing from the 011 mini to the NR200. My plan is to do either a triple rad/dual DDC pump or dual rad/dual DDC pump setup. Right now my main concern is trying to see if I can squeeze a 280mm rad in the bottom & or top of the case.
This is WHY you are such an inspirational force! And seeing the joy and pride and accomplishment just bursting out of your eyes just makes it all that much more awesome! Well done, my man! Well done!
Jay you should clamp the piece to be worked on under the drill, carefully drill the hole whilst applying water to the drill point area. Then stop the drill and put the tap into the chuck of the drill and MANUALLY turn the drill chuck whilst applying a light pressure to the tap by turning the handle of the drill press . once the tap has cut the first three threads you can undo the chuck and put a small tap holder onto the tap and complete the threading process. 1/2 turn forward 1/4 turn back to break off the swarf put water on to lubricate and cool the threading process. put a small waterproof tray under the drill table to catch water.