I get spark and it kinda runs but runs waaay better with the spout connector unplugged. This happened in my 89 2.9 junk ranger last year, I swapped the grey module and the pickup but the problems only went away when I replaced the computer. Its doing it again although now much worse.
Dude, I'm kinda trying to understand something, I'm getting power with ignition on to coil on both legs, but when I turn motor over no spark?? Same coil used on my other truck and it works and sparks?? With power on both legs. Someone help me understand why. Both vehicles are tfi.
One pole on the coil is 12v constant, the other is supposed to pulse 12v/0v when in start/run. If you're getting constant 12v from both when cranking, its either your ignition module, distributor pickup, or EEC. second easiest to replace, second cheapest, and most likely to fail is ignition module. hardest to replace, least likely to fail, but cheapest part, is pickup... removal of distributor required to replace. most expensive part, easiest to replace is EEC... but these can also be cracked open and repaired if you find this one is the culprit. capacitors on the board fail. all of this is in YT vids. do a deep dive. the knowledge is there.
How does it spark without the PIP wire(pin 1) hooked up? I have a TCI distributor and coil that I have bench tested like in your video. It works great. I install both the distributor and coil in my vehicle and I get nothing. I have power at pin 3 and 4 and good ground at pin 6. The green trigger wire from the distributor to the coil is also has a good clean connection.
I understand its been a year without an answer. I hope you have figured it out by now. But, if you have not?? Check out ScannerDanner's channel. You might find something that helps you. Or, he might answer your question. He's super cool. I hope this helps bud
The faster it spins the weaker the spark. The field thru the coil can only discharge so much so fast. People wanting higher volts will suffer saturation problems and high speed miss.
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you
Would this work in a carburetor setup. Looking to get away from the vacuum advance
Thx this helped me so much with my wiring problem
I get spark and it kinda runs but runs waaay better with the spout connector unplugged. This happened in my 89 2.9 junk ranger last year, I swapped the grey module and the pickup but the problems only went away when I replaced the computer. Its doing it again although now much worse.
Dude, I'm kinda trying to understand something, I'm getting power with ignition on to coil on both legs, but when I turn motor over no spark?? Same coil used on my other truck and it works and sparks?? With power on both legs. Someone help me understand why. Both vehicles are tfi.
One pole on the coil is 12v constant, the other is supposed to pulse 12v/0v when in start/run. If you're getting constant 12v from both when cranking, its either your ignition module, distributor pickup, or EEC.
second easiest to replace, second cheapest, and most likely to fail is ignition module.
hardest to replace, least likely to fail, but cheapest part, is pickup... removal of distributor required to replace.
most expensive part, easiest to replace is EEC... but these can also be cracked open and repaired if you find this one is the culprit. capacitors on the board fail.
all of this is in YT vids. do a deep dive. the knowledge is there.
Thanks for trying to help but your camera was zoomed in and we couldn’t see what you were pointing at
Are you testing the ignition module outside the distributer or the pickup coil inside the distributer?
How does it spark without the PIP wire(pin 1) hooked up? I have a TCI distributor and coil that I have bench tested like in your video. It works great. I install both the distributor and coil in my vehicle and I get nothing. I have power at pin 3 and 4 and good ground at pin 6. The green trigger wire from the distributor to the coil is also has a good clean connection.
I understand its been a year without an answer. I hope you have figured it out by now. But, if you have not?? Check out ScannerDanner's channel. You might find something that helps you. Or, he might answer your question. He's super cool. I hope this helps bud
That was really cool at the end. thanks
+manuel bermudez
Thanks
my ford mustang ignition coil cureent no give.i am chnge but problem no solve.
The faster it spins the weaker the spark. The field thru the coil can only discharge so much so fast. People wanting higher volts will suffer saturation problems and high speed miss.
Wait whaaaaat so what would you fo if you wanted like 6000 rpm and some hotter burning plugs
With that much spark generation from the TFI and Coil why use and MSD 6 box or unit.
Negtive wire no good show