I had a cheap distributor before & the same part went bad. I replaced mine with msd distributor & noticed a big difference. Very happy with msd products
@@thefoxchamber my MSD dizzy was a pos. I even sent it back for repair and it still did the same thing (cutting out) put the factory one back called it a day.
lol you got me! That’s definitely way easier than when I replaced my stator. Pulling the damn gear off and then getting it back on and lining up the roll pin holes was a massive pain.
Nice looking MSD distributor brother! Hope you get starter issue resolved. We know as Foxbody owners, we are usually chasing issues. Stick with it man! 👊🏻
Hey man, I really like your videos, you make it simple and straightforward. I have a 1988 Mustang I bought new, I ran into the same problem that you were having and I like to of never got it figured out, but when I replaced the distributor it made all the difference and solved the problem of it cutting off and then sometimes it would turn right back on but not always. I also ran into a problem with my starter hanging up, I had to replace the starter relay and I got one from the local Ford dealer, put it on and when I cranked the car the starter would keep turning the motor over even after I turned the car off and took the key out. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I went through three Motorcraft starter relays from the dealer and before I got one that worked correctly, the dealer couldn’t believe that I had that problem with their relays and what they found was the contacts in the relay welded together the first time I cranked the car with them. I hope that you have gotten your starter problems resolved but even the factory parts from the dealer can be bad right out of the box so you have to keep that in mind when working on these cars. Keep up the good work and the great videos man, you are doing a great job with them.
Another great video. I agree with another post where it might be the starter gear to the flywheel. If you pull the starter out again, you can look at the contact pattern to see if it even across the starter gear teeth.
Not sure what year your car is, but when you swap high torque starters on the older cars, you need to change some wires around on your fender-mounted starter relay to keep them from hanging up like that. All positive wires OTHER THAN the single wire that triggers the starter-mounted starter solenoid should be on one terminal. That starter solenoid trigger wire should be by itself on the other terminal. There are some good pictures/writeups online
Good job. I just changed out my distributor too. I also have a hang up or grinding when I start my notch. Let me know if you find anything out so I can fix mine. Mine has been like that for about a year now. Somebody told me that it might be my electrical switch, I don’t know..
The tone ring under the rotor is different on cars from 1983-85. A 1984 car will run with a distributor from a 1989 but without timing advance. The computer will be missing a signal from that tone ring there is one bigger notch in the 1984. Auto stores will not specify this and sell you a non compatible distributor if you own an 84. Hope this helps as i wasnt able to find any information anywhere on this situation.
Your ignition switch is keeping current to your starter because it sounds like it was engaged the whole time unless you were holding the key the whole time which I doubt. Three brand-new starters Eaten up for that reason. You need to check out your flywheel. If it's bad because of the starter being engaged too long you need to replace the starter and flywheel. And the actual ignition switch not the key part but the electrical part.
Did changing out that distributor help, I’m having the same same problem. By car gets to operating temperature and just cuts off, I wait like 10 minutes it starts right back up.
It helped but check to see if your battery cable is corroded on the inside. The cable going to the solenoid. Trust me you'll want to check just to make sure.
Msd got some big ones up charging $200 on that China distributor, every parts store sells that these days as fd17 part number, same distributor with out the stickers. just another reason to avoid most everything Holley and its private equity group owns.
If you have to replace the distributor check summit racing. I just swapped out the one on my 90 f150. New distributor,new pick up coil,new ignition control module ,new dist cap and rotor cap for under 80.00 tax included. Lifetime warranty. Cordone brand i believe
Cordone is garbage. Summit brand ready to run are manufactured by Holly and worth a few extra bucks. Junk that Cordone before it leaves you on the side of the road.
I have a 87 fox I used a OBD scanner an it gave me codes 94, 44, and 31. I'm having issues with it bucking and hesitating. I have a laundry list of new parts I've put into the car this car to include distributor, tps, egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, starter solenoid. Tired of throwing money at this car, any suggestions ??? tks
Ive been around these beasts all my life,vacuum leaks are your worst enemy and you could have some so little that you cant see them or hear them or even detect them,i had those 'surging blues" for years and one of the reasons was because i was always putting on new intakes or this and that and i just slipped my hoses back on,i never bothered with clamps,once i started clamping everything my surging and hesitations and all that were gone 99.9 %,i have 2 of these cars now and they both run great. I also did what you did,what they call "throwing parts at it" it sucks but sometimes we just do it out of desperation, the way i look at it now is that if it didn't solve the problem at least i have a spare now, check your grounds too, behind your drivers side head there is a ground strap there that goes from the head to the body of the car, some Mustangs if that strap is green with corrosion or gone, the car wont run worth a hill of beans, happened to me years ago, threw like 300 dollars worth or parts and that strap was 1.50, ha ha ha ha, my car would die, hesitate and when i hit my brake pedal it would die or the radio would cut out,electrical stuff will drive you to drink for sure.
Hey what is your Idle set at mine idles at 500 with alot of chop but drives fine when on the gas. I'm just trying to figure out what to idle my car at because I think the timings set right but i feel idel should be at 1000 what do you think?
Im having a sputtering issue around 2-3k rpm any idea what can it be? I changed fuel pump, fuel filter , iac and tps, ignition coil, spark plug wires distributor cap and rotor
Rafael, you've done changed everything I would have, LOL 😂. Only thing that comes to mind is the injectors. I'm no expert by any means, but definitely check around.
Looking at your pony makes me miss my pony even more . Big ups from , Deutschland/ Germany . 👍🏽
I love mine looks good with a pair of slicks:^)
I had a cheap distributor before & the same part went bad. I replaced mine with msd distributor & noticed a big difference. Very happy with msd products
Mike, I can definitely tell the difference. I've heard bad and good about MSD, I haven't had any problems with them........yet.
@@thefoxchamber my MSD dizzy was a pos. I even sent it back for repair and it still did the same thing (cutting out) put the factory one back called it a day.
@@roccosvan wow. So far so good with mine.
lol you got me! That’s definitely way easier than when I replaced my stator. Pulling the damn gear off and then getting it back on and lining up the roll pin holes was a massive pain.
LoL yea, just did it the easy way
Nice looking MSD distributor brother! Hope you get starter issue resolved. We know as Foxbody owners, we are usually chasing issues. Stick with it man! 👊🏻
Thanks Sam
Man I’m getting the same switharooo your talking about. I just got my distributor in.I hope it helps on mine as well. Good video
Thanks brother. Good luck
Definitely a lot easier than when I did it. Good job Jim.
Yea, I definitely didn't go through what you went through. Hahaha 🤣
This is good info bro
Hey man, I really like your videos, you make it simple and straightforward. I have a 1988 Mustang I bought new, I ran into the same problem that you were having and I like to of never got it figured out, but when I replaced the distributor it made all the difference and solved the problem of it cutting off and then sometimes it would turn right back on but not always. I also ran into a problem with my starter hanging up, I had to replace the starter relay and I got one from the local Ford dealer, put it on and when I cranked the car the starter would keep turning the motor over even after I turned the car off and took the key out. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I went through three Motorcraft starter relays from the dealer and before I got one that worked correctly, the dealer couldn’t believe that I had that problem with their relays and what they found was the contacts in the relay welded together the first time I cranked the car with them. I hope that you have gotten your starter problems resolved but even the factory parts from the dealer can be bad right out of the box so you have to keep that in mind when working on these cars. Keep up the good work and the great videos man, you are doing a great job with them.
Another great video. I agree with another post where it might be the starter gear to the flywheel. If you pull the starter out again, you can look at the contact pattern to see if it even across the starter gear teeth.
Thanks Brian, I'll check that out when I pull it.
@@thefoxchamber you need to get a 8.8 from a fox and do a proper 5 lug , that sn diff makes your wheels stick out wayyy too much
Awesome video and good information 👍🏼💯🔥
Thanks bro 👊🏾
Awesome I went from points and condenser to HEI on my 65 and it runs like a different car, good luck with the starter issue
Thanks bro
You're welcome man
Not sure what year your car is, but when you swap high torque starters on the older cars, you need to change some wires around on your fender-mounted starter relay to keep them from hanging up like that. All positive wires OTHER THAN the single wire that triggers the starter-mounted starter solenoid should be on one terminal. That starter solenoid trigger wire should be by itself on the other terminal. There are some good pictures/writeups online
I think it's wired like you mentioned. I have to check. Thanks.
Good job. I just changed out my distributor too. I also have a hang up or grinding when I start my notch. Let me know if you find anything out so I can fix mine. Mine has been like that for about a year now. Somebody told me that it might be my electrical switch, I don’t know..
Thanks Larry. If I find a fix I'll definitely put that info out.
The tone ring under the rotor is different on cars from 1983-85. A 1984 car will run with a distributor from a 1989 but without timing advance. The computer will be missing a signal from that tone ring there is one bigger notch in the 1984. Auto stores will not specify this and sell you a non compatible distributor if you own an 84. Hope this helps as i wasnt able to find any information anywhere on this situation.
I'm good now, thanks for the info
@@thefoxchamber i just wanted to let you know that incase you come across the 83 thru 85 because that got me for a while.
Your ignition switch is keeping current to your starter because it sounds like it was engaged the whole time unless you were holding the key the whole time which I doubt. Three brand-new starters Eaten up for that reason. You need to check out your flywheel. If it's bad because of the starter being engaged too long you need to replace the starter and flywheel. And the actual ignition switch not the key part but the electrical part.
P.A Performance mini starter,made in the U.S.A.! Not that Chinese junk LMR sells.🇺🇸💯
....and that could be it also, hahaha
Check your ignition switch; it might be shorting out and hanging up your starter…
Is there a better dizzy than the msd... always considering value for the money. Thx in adv all
@flyonthewallbuzz9376 if there is one I haven't bought it yet, lol
I have the same issue. I’m wondering if you solved the starter problem.
I moved the battery to the front, problem went away. I think it was my battery cable. Corrosion.
Did changing out that distributor help, I’m having the same same problem. By car gets to operating temperature and just cuts off, I wait like 10 minutes it starts right back up.
It helped but check to see if your battery cable is corroded on the inside. The cable going to the solenoid. Trust me you'll want to check just to make sure.
@@thefoxchamber thanks very much for the reply, I will check
@@thefoxchamber I just changed out the whole distributor as you recommend in the video. My car running now, thank you very much Godbless.
Glad it worked of you
Nice video!!
Thanks Frank 👊🏾
Hey buddy. I don’t have any personal experience with high torque mini starters. Maybe you need to ship the starter. Did it come with a shim plate?
From what I read, these starter don't get shimmed
Nice fox 👍
Thanks
Msd got some big ones up charging $200 on that China distributor, every parts store sells that these days as fd17 part number, same distributor with out the stickers. just another reason to avoid most everything Holley and its private equity group owns.
Wow
Beautiful work brother... what the part number for that distributor??
How would you know if you got a bad pip? Got a 88 marquis that’s acting like it’s wanting to die at times. Sometimes it runs perfect.
The ones I know about are heat soak hard to start, rough idle, sometimes skipping. But think there's more.
Ignition switch? Starter relay on the fender sticking?
Rgr, I checked the starter relay but not the ignition switch. Thanks
That's what I was thinking as well
You need a new flywheel and it's a ICM on the side of the distributor.
If you have to replace the distributor check summit racing. I just swapped out the one on my 90 f150. New distributor,new pick up coil,new ignition control module ,new dist cap and rotor cap for under 80.00 tax included. Lifetime warranty. Cordone brand i believe
Cordone is garbage. Summit brand ready to run are manufactured by Holly and worth a few extra bucks. Junk that Cordone before it leaves you on the side of the road.
I have a 87 fox I used a OBD scanner an it gave me codes 94, 44, and 31. I'm having issues with it bucking and hesitating. I have a laundry list of new parts I've put into the car this car to include distributor, tps, egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, starter solenoid. Tired of throwing money at this car, any suggestions ??? tks
Dang it bro. You've done everything that I would have done. Sorry, nothing comes to mind.
Ive been around these beasts all my life,vacuum leaks are your worst enemy and you could have some so little that you cant see them or hear them or even detect them,i had those 'surging blues" for years and one of the reasons was because i was always putting on new intakes or this and that and i just slipped my hoses back on,i never bothered with clamps,once i started clamping everything my surging and hesitations and all that were gone 99.9 %,i have 2 of these cars now and they both run great.
I also did what you did,what they call "throwing parts at it" it sucks but sometimes we just do it out of desperation, the way i look at it now is that if it didn't solve the problem at least i have a spare now, check your grounds too, behind your drivers side head there is a ground strap there that goes from the head to the body of the car, some Mustangs if that strap is green with corrosion or gone, the car wont run worth a hill of beans, happened to me years ago, threw like 300 dollars worth or parts and that strap was 1.50, ha ha ha ha, my car would die, hesitate and when i hit my brake pedal it would die or the radio would cut out,electrical stuff will drive you to drink for sure.
Hey what is your Idle set at mine idles at 500 with alot of chop but drives fine when on the gas. I'm just trying to figure out what to idle my car at because I think the timings set right but i feel idel should be at 1000 what do you think?
My idle is at 800-850. 1000 might be a little high.
Good looking sled but i wish you had a cheat for the pickup coil. I thought i was gonna learn somin.
I would say it's your ignition key switch ....needs changing.
Sounds like the ignition switch
Im having a sputtering issue around 2-3k rpm any idea what can it be? I changed fuel pump, fuel filter , iac and tps, ignition coil, spark plug wires distributor cap and rotor
Rafael, you've done changed everything I would have, LOL 😂. Only thing that comes to mind is the injectors. I'm no expert by any means, but definitely check around.
@@thefoxchamber appreciate it 👌gonna change injectors later today hopefully that’s solves the issue
@@YoungRj23hopefully so. But ask around before sending big money. There's issues that have similar symptoms.
@@thefoxchamber found the issue it was the distributor
@@YoungRj23 was it the pip like mine?
are you in charlotte nc
I'm not
For the event, yes though
ING SWITCHS ARE WEAK ON 85 TO92 FORDS FORD CALL BACK ON MK 7S AND
MUSTANGS also sister
Up grounds from motor
To frame. Up grade alt
To later years
👍🏾
Check the teeth on your flywheel!! That’s what was wrong with mine bubba!
Mine didn't look terrible, but they are not pristine 😂🤣. But they are all there, 157 of them.
@@thefoxchamber good luck!
ignition switch buddy
Nice click bait 😂
LoL
BS.