I used to run cabling until my job was upgraded but Someone would order Solid Core RJ45. I would imagine it is only useful on uplinks you never move. What happens when you move them? Cracks are forming in the solid core when you move them. Heat from the Electrical signals cook them and make them stiff. I also was a new construction plumber as well. I was in the helper role, I even passed my Journeymens License the second year of my three year apprenticeship. So in Florida there are 2 ways to run copper one is to manifold them together using rolled L copper and bury the pipes underground and cover the copper with dirt and bringing the copper together by using various T’s and Elbows together without size reduction and finishing by leaving a hot and cold stub up in lets say the bathroom wet wall then later on the stubup is used by pulling or cutting the caps off and then running the necessary copper down the wall for instance a mounted tub and shower valve with 2 12 inch made water hammer arrester, so you would use 2 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 copper T’s with 2 3/4 copper caps. You would use 1 T on the cold side running to the toilet with a 6 inch stub out and run that cold down to pick up the lavatory and then pick up the hot water for the lavatory with a 6 inch t out . But the Tubsey copper is almost always hard copper. The soft copper is almost always ran underground and hard copper overhead unless your just trying to get rid of some scrap. So the downside of soft copper is that if you decide to throw it in the back of your pickup or leave it outside and out of the box. Then you are shit out of luck. It gets hard enough not to be able to bend it anymore and is scrap afterwords Cryo is a Gimmick. There Brain 🧠 was Cryogenically Frozen. Look at the guys head🥶 look a Snowglobe.
Truly enjoyed that whole video, bonus ending was great Awesome playing, just got myself a reissue 65 from 93, all original was a workhorse as far as I can tell it sounds great slight dry pots, wish you was in or around london, wtg super cool vid
When these finally go up in smoke, you can buy them cheap as basket cases, gut them, install good transformers and choke, then rewire the whole thing on an eyelet board, put in some righteous tubes, and then you'll have a real amp that will last a lifetime and sound great. I've done it a bunch of times and was always happy with the results.
@@RDamps It's really just a way around all of the collector/broker madness and stupid idol worship. The lunatics have run the prices of the old ones so far beyond the reach of the people who need them to make music that we have to have an alternative if we want to have those sounds. All you really have to do is copy the layout of the original, and don't skimp on components. Building with cheap crappy parts will guarantee disappointment.
It is not completely mismatch, the technician who did the service tried to balance it by placing a 5881 on each side since 6L6GC has 30 watts and 5881 23 watts of maximum rated dissipation, completely mismatch would be if you put the two 5881 on one side and the two 6l6GC of the other, it is clear that using these two types of valve at the same time you will have to work with the cold bias to avoid overloading the 5881 and this will generate crossover, the blue and brown wires have nothing to do with the phase inverter, they are the wires that comes from B + and feeds the plate of each valve, the blue of one pair and the brown of another pair, with voltage and current value in hand we don't need an online calculator, just multiply current in mA by voltage, 0.042 x 437 = 18.354 watts.
Yes you are correct, it’s still not an ideal fix though and it was done as a warranty repair at a shop which I know doesn’t have a tech and personally think it’s a half job. Plus the amp will never sound as good as it could. Yes I miss spoke in my passionate stream that those wires from the phase inverter and not the B+ 🤦🏻♂️
Those EHX 12AX7's are total junk too. Which is a shame because I like the way they sound (for the 5-20 hrs or so before they sh*t the bed). FWIW I always run my bigger fixed bias amps on a variac. If you have grotty power it helps a lot to filter out line noise and when gigging its pretty much essential to distrust the venue line voltage and use an inline surge protector. For the £120 or so a decent variac and plug in power monitor costs its a no brainer really. Almost poo'd myself when you tweaked it up to 45mA bias then relieved you brought it back down to 30ish. I run mine down at 27mA! No crossover distortion and sounds nice and chewey. Old video is old I know but you can quieten these import Fenders down a lot by removing the ~6 miles of cable they used to get round not using an optocoupler. Edit: Never understood the hate for the C12K's either. I think they sound great and mellow nicely with break in.
Thanks for the video. Super nice. I just got a 65 RI at a price too good to pass. The only issue is the vibrato speed does not slow below guessing 60hz & the intensity kicks in at 8. Gonna put it on the bench this week to check the v5s, components & clean the pots so this video is a great reminder to "be gentle with pcb`s. Thanks again!
@@RDamps I printed the schematic on a plotter today in poster size. Two v5 tubes, one for speed, one intensity. Gonna swap some 12ax & at7s out of another amp & hear what happens. Thanks again!
Actually, v5 is only one 12ax7. New one is in & vibrato is cured. I also moved v1 to v6 for 2 reasons, stop channel bleed cause I play ch.2 mostly & provide a little more gain or fullness cause v6 is ch.2 gain stage. v6 from factory is a 12at7. Sounds so sweet! Thank you again my fellow rocker!
At 2:35: 5881's, "miniaturized for high G's".....the 5881 was purportedly originally designed for use in Cold-War-era bomber planes to drive the servo motors for the bomb-sights. Nowadays of course with tubes being manufactured almost exclusively in Russia and China the actual specifications, operating parameters and maximum dissipation could be just about anything, and the original US specs for 5881's little more than a suggestion.
After being ripped off after buying a Ampeg VT22, then ripped by amp techs in this area. I buy new amps! Wish you could repair mine. Thanks for the information.
@@RDamps I have had this amp for over 20 years and can only use the speakers from the cabinet. What so bad is that Iive around a music city area, still no one can repair it. Please keep up the good work.
Hello RubberDuck tech, your tuto is brilliant .I have one question for my ressue twin reverb , none of my Tubes are enlighted I was wondering which part has to be change? Knowing i controled fuses 2A and 10 A ones and the power transformer is alimented cause it 's warm. Could help me to fix it ? thanks for your response !! patrice
Is the "hum balance pot" an actual balancing adjustment for the filament circuit? Or is it a "bias-balance" circuit that achieves the same current for each half of the output stage and in the process of balancing the push- pull circuit also cancels some of the hum? I've seem vintage hifi amps and guitar amps that instruct the user to adjust a supposed "hum-balance" pot for minimum hum, and, whether it's made clear to them or not, thereby "bias" the amp. Of course, it's s not actually adjusting the bias up or down, merely balancing the plate current between the tubes.
I’ve got the same 65 reissue Fender Twin amp. I brought it over from the United States. Can I rewire the transformer to run it here in Spain at 220 volts?
I have never biased an amp bar a diezel with external bias test points. That seemed handy enough as the bias amount was on the back of the amp. On this amp you had to calculate what to set it to. Why was that? Is it not listed in the Fender manual? Or is that not how it works? Cheers
@@RDamps I see. TAD sometimes give suggestions for amounts to set it to depending on the amp. That just a guess on their part? By the way is the reverb generally noisy on these amps? My one has a very annoying bzzz sound off it when its turned up.
I skimmed through the video and I didn't see you actually flip the control board out for the purpose of cleaning the pots. Here's a tip: *if* the board is not double-sided and *if* they are the type of pots that have slots where the terminals exit the pot and pass through the component side of the board to reach the foil traces, you can CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the board in between the terminal connections for each individual pot, and squirt control cleaner through the holes into the pots, preferably with a syringe. Purists might cringe, but it's not a classic vintage amp, only a modern reissue amplifier with printed circuit boards ! I have done this many many times on vintage 70's stereo equipment (Pioneer, Kenwood, Sansui and the like) where removing the boards to access the pots would likely add well over an hour and a huge hassle (and the possibility of breaking off lots of interconnecting wire leads) to the necessary job of cleaning 45 year old pots. I use a Dremel tool and a miniature carbide bit, and *a very light touch*. So far, I haven't damaged a pot !
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 กรกฎาคม 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/B8gcGM6I6e4/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow I learned something in the first two minutes. Appreciate it!
I used to run cabling until my job was upgraded but Someone would order Solid Core RJ45. I would imagine it is only useful on uplinks you never move. What happens when you move them? Cracks are forming in the solid core when you move them. Heat from the Electrical signals cook them and make them stiff.
I also was a new construction plumber as well. I was in the helper role, I even passed my Journeymens License the second year of my three year apprenticeship. So in Florida there are 2 ways to run copper one is to manifold them together using rolled L copper and bury the pipes underground and cover the copper with dirt and bringing the copper together by using various T’s and Elbows together without size reduction and finishing by leaving a hot and cold stub up in lets say the bathroom wet wall then later on the stubup is used by pulling or cutting the caps off and then running the necessary copper down the wall for instance a mounted tub and shower valve with 2 12 inch made water hammer arrester, so you would use 2 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 copper T’s with 2 3/4 copper caps. You would use 1 T on the cold side running to the toilet with a 6 inch stub out and run that cold down to pick up the lavatory and then pick up the hot water for the lavatory with a 6 inch t out .
But the Tubsey copper is almost always hard copper. The soft copper is almost always ran underground and hard copper overhead unless your just trying to get rid of some scrap. So the downside of soft copper is that if you decide to throw it in the back of your pickup or leave it outside and out of the box. Then you are shit out of luck. It gets hard enough not to be able to bend it anymore and is scrap afterwords
Cryo is a Gimmick. There Brain 🧠 was Cryogenically Frozen. Look at the guys head🥶 look a Snowglobe.
Truly enjoyed that whole video, bonus ending was great Awesome playing, just got myself a reissue 65 from 93, all original was a workhorse as far as I can tell it sounds great slight dry pots, wish you was in or around london, wtg super cool vid
Thank you Tony!
When these finally go up in smoke, you can buy them cheap as basket cases, gut them, install good transformers and choke, then rewire the whole thing on an eyelet board, put in some righteous tubes, and then you'll have a real amp that will last a lifetime and sound great. I've done it a bunch of times and was always happy with the results.
Sounds like a great idea 💡👍
@@RDamps It's really just a way around all of the collector/broker madness and stupid idol worship. The lunatics have run the prices of the old ones so far beyond the reach of the people who need them to make music that we have to have an alternative if we want to have those sounds. All you really have to do is copy the layout of the original, and don't skimp on components.
Building with cheap crappy parts will guarantee disappointment.
It is not completely mismatch, the technician who did the service tried to balance it by placing a 5881 on each side since 6L6GC has 30 watts and 5881 23 watts of maximum rated dissipation, completely mismatch would be if you put the two 5881 on one side and the two 6l6GC of the other, it is clear that using these two types of valve at the same time you will have to work with the cold bias to avoid overloading the 5881 and this will generate crossover, the blue and brown wires have nothing to do with the phase inverter, they are the wires that comes from B + and feeds the plate of each valve, the blue of one pair and the brown of another pair, with voltage and current value in hand we don't need an online calculator, just multiply current in mA by voltage, 0.042 x 437 = 18.354 watts.
Yes you are correct, it’s still not an ideal fix though and it was done as a warranty repair at a shop which I know doesn’t have a tech and personally think it’s a half job. Plus the amp will never sound as good as it could. Yes I miss spoke in my passionate stream that those wires from the phase inverter and not the B+ 🤦🏻♂️
Those EHX 12AX7's are total junk too. Which is a shame because I like the way they sound (for the 5-20 hrs or so before they sh*t the bed). FWIW I always run my bigger fixed bias amps on a variac. If you have grotty power it helps a lot to filter out line noise and when gigging its pretty much essential to distrust the venue line voltage and use an inline surge protector. For the £120 or so a decent variac and plug in power monitor costs its a no brainer really. Almost poo'd myself when you tweaked it up to 45mA bias then relieved you brought it back down to 30ish. I run mine down at 27mA! No crossover distortion and sounds nice and chewey. Old video is old I know but you can quieten these import Fenders down a lot by removing the ~6 miles of cable they used to get round not using an optocoupler. Edit: Never understood the hate for the C12K's either. I think they sound great and mellow nicely with break in.
Thanks for the video. Super nice. I just got a 65 RI at a price too good to pass. The only issue is the vibrato speed does not slow below guessing 60hz & the intensity kicks in at 8. Gonna put it on the bench this week to check the v5s, components & clean the pots so this video is a great reminder to "be gentle with pcb`s. Thanks again!
It will be interesting if that has the same "digital" vibrato. Let me know
@@RDamps I printed the schematic on a plotter today in poster size. Two v5 tubes, one for speed, one intensity. Gonna swap some 12ax & at7s out of another amp & hear what happens. Thanks again!
Actually, v5 is only one 12ax7. New one is in & vibrato is cured. I also moved v1 to v6 for 2 reasons, stop channel bleed cause I play ch.2 mostly & provide a little more gain or fullness cause v6 is ch.2 gain stage. v6 from factory is a 12at7. Sounds so sweet! Thank you again my fellow rocker!
At 2:35: 5881's, "miniaturized for high G's".....the 5881 was purportedly originally designed for use in Cold-War-era bomber planes to drive the servo motors for the bomb-sights. Nowadays of course with tubes being manufactured almost exclusively in Russia and China the actual specifications, operating parameters and maximum dissipation could be just about anything, and the original US specs for 5881's little more than a suggestion.
I think it sounds better than the 69 Twin I had
Yep I think the Reissue's get unjustly slated.
After being ripped off after buying a Ampeg VT22, then ripped by amp techs in this area. I buy new amps! Wish you could repair mine. Thanks for the information.
The reason I became an amp tech is I was never happy with my local ones.
@@RDamps I have had this amp for over 20 years and can only use the speakers from the cabinet. What so bad is that Iive around a music city area, still no one can repair it. Please keep up the good work.
Hello RubberDuck tech, your tuto is brilliant .I have one question for my ressue twin reverb , none of my Tubes are enlighted I was wondering which part has to be change? Knowing i controled fuses 2A and 10 A ones and the power transformer is alimented cause it 's warm. Could help me to fix it ? thanks for your response !! patrice
Hi Patrice, if you email me I can send you a link to my Discord server where it will be much easier to help you.
Is the "hum balance pot" an actual balancing adjustment for the filament circuit? Or is it a "bias-balance" circuit that achieves the same current for each half of the output stage and in the process of balancing the push- pull circuit also cancels some of the hum? I've seem vintage hifi amps and guitar amps that instruct the user to adjust a supposed "hum-balance" pot for minimum hum, and, whether it's made clear to them or not, thereby "bias" the amp. Of course, it's s not actually adjusting the bias up or down, merely balancing the plate current between the tubes.
I’ll have to check the schematic as I really can’t remember on this one.
100 ohm to balance the heather circuit
Do many amps have such a pot as shown from 29:59 ? My VOX AC30 hums an awful lot....
I’ve got the same 65 reissue Fender Twin amp.
I brought it over from the United States.
Can I rewire the transformer to run it here in Spain at 220 volts?
I’m not sure with the ones for the US market. It’s the export models that have the extra wires for different voltages
I have never biased an amp bar a diezel with external bias test points. That seemed handy enough as the bias amount was on the back of the amp. On this amp you had to calculate what to set it to. Why was that? Is it not listed in the Fender manual? Or is that not how it works? Cheers
Yeah fender specify a one size fits all setting, but it’s not an ideal. If you measure the plate voltage you can figure out the ideal setting.
@@RDamps I see. TAD sometimes give suggestions for amounts to set it to depending on the amp. That just a guess on their part? By the way is the reverb generally noisy on these amps? My one has a very annoying bzzz sound off it when its turned up.
I skimmed through the video and I didn't see you actually flip the control board out for the purpose of cleaning the pots. Here's a tip: *if* the board is not double-sided and *if* they are the type of pots that have slots where the terminals exit the pot and pass through the component side of the board to reach the foil traces, you can CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the board in between the terminal connections for each individual pot, and squirt control cleaner through the holes into the pots, preferably with a syringe. Purists might cringe, but it's not a classic vintage amp, only a modern reissue amplifier with printed circuit boards ! I have done this many many times on vintage 70's stereo equipment (Pioneer, Kenwood, Sansui and the like) where removing the boards to access the pots would likely add well over an hour and a huge hassle (and the possibility of breaking off lots of interconnecting wire leads) to the necessary job of cleaning 45 year old pots. I use a Dremel tool and a miniature carbide bit, and *a very light touch*. So far, I haven't damaged a pot !
I did remove the board but that’s a great tip! Thanks for that. My actual hobby being model making means I’m not afraid of a delicate task!
Yeah I prefer vintage Fender amps
Is this amp Has PCB?
Yes it does.