Great diagnostic algorithm! I differ in that if the engine has run long enough to get slightly warm I feel both valve covers to see if they are both contributing. That way I don’t need any tools to start. I found the same clean spark plug on one lawn tractor. Turns out the magnetos were rust jacking so I replaced both.
I appreciate that! Definitely a good way of doing it, to feel each side. One of the other mechanics uses the infared heat gun for the same thing and says he'll never do it another way. Thanks for watching
@@Rein_Ciarfella I am also concerned about the rust on the flywheel and coils with such close tolerances. It would be interesting to hook a scope to the coil output and see the difference between clean and rusty.
@ FWIW, rust doesn’t affect magnetism. The only real reason to clean off the rust is when setting the air gap - to get the correct gap - and even then air gaps aren’t all that critical.
One thing I've found on Briggs V engines. The carburetor tends to be lean. I have on 2 engines drilled the jets. The 2 bbl carburetor have different sized jets. I ordered a set of mini drill bits. One was .043, it was loose in the jets. I used a .050 to drill them out. That sounds like a big jump, however the .043 was very loose. Could have been as much as .045. Still. 005 soubds like a lot, but on the 2 engine Ive done that to, they run much better. The test. Run as fast as the mower will go engage the blades, move the throttle to idle, then move the throttle to full throttle as fast as possible, it should accelerate fast and smoothly. And pull strong. The engines I did that to were 24, and 25 horsepower. It worked for me.
Very thorough diagnostic and repair; fixing to go pick up a Poulan Pro 46in deck with the 20HP v-twin for $50. Owner says he stopped using mower after it started bogging down while cutting grass, I am suspecting a cylinder issue, looking forward to doing my preliminary checks like you did when I get it home this evening:-)
@@IndRepair Update on $50 Poulan- cylinder on “oil filter side” of engine had two bent push rods and exhaust valve guide walked out. Going to try “set screw” fix for the valve guide as shown on Taryl Fixes All video and worst case, fall on my own sword as I plan to use this mower as my personal one if it fails. Like most $50 mowers, this one was severely neglected and barely had oil touching dipstick.
i happen to have one of those myself....the exact same one with a no start issue...spins freely but wont start...its a 2017model i bought new and ive never done a valve adjustment so thats where im starting.
@@kevinhanshew3703 Definitely check the valve adjustments. If you have kept the oil at proper lever, you should not be too far out of adjustment mush less have any bent pushrods:-)
I ran across a lot of these briggs that had valve seat problems due to overheating. Fluffy the mouse left gifts that caused the overheating, I always pull the plastic top off to check for fluffy gifts in a valve situation. The symptoms are very similar to what you ran across in this situation because the valve seats actually pop out and block the valve from coming down. No matter what you do lubrication will not allow the valve to return to normal. As I watched this, I was surprised you found the problem was the rocker. I’m also wondering if this engine is supposed to have the little tips(I’m forgetting the proper term) on the valves. It would explain why those valves were so loose.
A friend of mine had one dead cylinder on a 2 cylinder engine . Push tubes bent , determined his small light weight daughter mowed the lawn . She constantly bounced the seat safety switch off and on miss firing the engine causing this failure .
I have seen this happen a lot with things shutting off but misfires or timing being cut and re-connected can cause all kinds of issues. Thanks for watching!
how do you know whether to adjust the nut or the stud on different engines, i see some that say loosen the jam nut and and adjust the stud and other videos say loosen the stud and adjust the nut thank you for your videos they are very helpful
Whatever is actually spacing the valve needs to be held stationary whatever is used to cam it is turned while the stationary piece is held in place. In this example the Torx bolt is what tightens against the valve so it is held in place while the nut is tightened to keep it where it was. Sometimes you have to adjust the valves multiple times before you get it just right, I just got lucky on these.Thanks for watching!
Blue loctite is common to use (manual calls for it) on the threads but in my opinion does nothing to help the bolts from backing out due to the major temperature difference the head goes through. Even after cured, the first time you fire up that engine the bond breaks
@@steveriggenbach90 I wish I would have remembered that Briggs recommended this in the repair manual, I would have mentioned it in the video and the reasons we do not use it. Thanks for watching!
Watched your video and fixed my tractor. In my situation I had spark on both sides so I did the test pulling a plug wire off of each side to see if she would die.... she did. I pulled the valve cover off and there it was, the bolt holding the rocker arm on the INTAKE valve had rattled off ... no air nor gas was getting in... the valve was stuck closed. I put it back together and gapped the rocker to the valve and started her up. WOW.. power! I tested the fix by cutting some wet grass and she ran very strong! All fixed. BUT ONE QUESTION... what if the exhaust valve was stuck closed and the engine was still getting fuel and air? How would she run.. or would she not run?
Issue- valve guides moved. Valve actuates pushing guide back down in head same time bending pushrod or twisting rocker. Pop off springs and measure guide heights and check seal. My remedies is to remove head, drive out guides, cut groves in guides just below top surface of head. Reinstall guides and stake aluminum into grooves of guides. Heads will last life of engine. What causes this is heads getting too hot due to blocked cooling fins or lean conditions from intake leak.
In my opinion it does not matter either way. The high heat, oil and fast temperature changes will render the loctite useless pretty quick. Thanks for the feedback! Thanks also for watching!
Some recommend not to do it this way because the coil is not able to discharge but it is generally accepted in small engine repair and I do not ever find an issue with it. You have to be careful because it can zap you pretty good if you are not careful!
Also the possibility of the head had overheated at one point and the valve guides moved would cause bent pushrods as well! The intake was bent and you never determined what bent it!
It was determined what bent it. The exhaust valve rocker pivot was installed inproperly. Things can't heat up and warp if they don't run. This horrible mistake made the exhaust valve never close
I understand! Either way I just try to help people with the process sometimes I get out of my standard work mode since I am trying to do a video on it. Some of them are not good and you will see me make mistakes. I think they are getting much better. Thanks for watching
Great diagnostic algorithm! I differ in that if the engine has run long enough to get slightly warm I feel both valve covers to see if they are both contributing. That way I don’t need any tools to start. I found the same clean spark plug on one lawn tractor. Turns out the magnetos were rust jacking so I replaced both.
I appreciate that! Definitely a good way of doing it, to feel each side. One of the other mechanics uses the infared heat gun for the same thing and says he'll never do it another way. Thanks for watching
@@Rein_Ciarfella I am also concerned about the rust on the flywheel and coils with such close tolerances.
It would be interesting to hook a scope to the coil output and see the difference between clean and rusty.
@
FWIW, rust doesn’t affect magnetism. The only real reason to clean off the rust is when setting the air gap - to get the correct gap - and even then air gaps aren’t all that critical.
One thing I've found on Briggs V engines. The carburetor tends to be lean. I have on 2 engines drilled the jets. The 2 bbl carburetor have different sized jets. I ordered a set of mini drill bits. One was .043, it was loose in the jets. I used a .050 to drill them out. That sounds like a big jump, however the .043 was very loose. Could have been as much as .045. Still. 005 soubds like a lot, but on the 2 engine Ive done that to, they run much better. The test. Run as fast as the mower will go engage the blades, move the throttle to idle, then move the throttle to full throttle as fast as possible, it should accelerate fast and smoothly. And pull strong. The engines I did that to were 24, and 25 horsepower. It worked for me.
Never understood the two different jet sizes myself but you are definitely right they run lean. Good fix!
That engine has a really nice tone to it, once it’s running correctly. 🔧👏👍
Thanks! I thought so too!
Great video. Informative and concise. Thankyou.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Very informative video. Keep them coming please. 👍
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Very thorough diagnostic and repair; fixing to go pick up a Poulan Pro 46in deck with the 20HP v-twin for $50. Owner says he stopped using mower after it started bogging down while cutting grass, I am suspecting a cylinder issue, looking forward to doing my preliminary checks like you did when I get it home this evening:-)
Awesome! I love getting a good deal on mowers! Would be interested to hear how it goes. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair Update on $50 Poulan- cylinder on “oil filter side” of engine had two bent push rods and exhaust valve guide walked out. Going to try “set screw” fix for the valve guide as shown on Taryl Fixes All video and worst case, fall on my own sword as I plan to use this mower as my personal one if it fails. Like most $50 mowers, this one was severely neglected and barely had oil touching dipstick.
That is awesome news!
i happen to have one of those myself....the exact same one with a no start issue...spins freely but wont start...its a 2017model i bought new and ive never done a valve adjustment so thats where im starting.
@@kevinhanshew3703 Definitely check the valve adjustments. If you have kept the oil at proper lever, you should not be too far out of adjustment mush less have any bent pushrods:-)
Another great video. Love your videos
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Good video, I think someone may have been into this engine before, and wasn't sure of what they were doing. Glad you resolved the problem
Yeah, we definitely see that a ton. Appreciate that!
I ran across a lot of these briggs that had valve seat problems due to overheating. Fluffy the mouse left gifts that caused the overheating, I always pull the plastic top off to check for fluffy gifts in a valve situation. The symptoms are very similar to what you ran across in this situation because the valve seats actually pop out and block the valve from coming down. No matter what you do lubrication will not allow the valve to return to normal. As I watched this, I was surprised you found the problem was the rocker. I’m also wondering if this engine is supposed to have the little tips(I’m forgetting the proper term) on the valves. It would explain why those valves were so loose.
Definitely have seen that a bunch! Valve caps are on all the smaller series intek but not on these
A friend of mine had one dead cylinder on a 2 cylinder engine . Push tubes bent , determined his small light weight daughter mowed the lawn . She constantly bounced the seat safety switch off and on miss firing the engine causing this failure .
I have seen this happen a lot with things shutting off but misfires or timing being cut and re-connected can cause all kinds of issues. Thanks for watching!
how do you know whether to adjust the nut or the stud on different engines, i see some that say loosen the jam nut and and adjust the stud and other videos say loosen the stud and adjust the nut
thank you for your videos they are very helpful
Whatever is actually spacing the valve needs to be held stationary whatever is used to cam it is turned while the stationary piece is held in place. In this example the Torx bolt is what tightens against the valve so it is held in place while the nut is tightened to keep it where it was. Sometimes you have to adjust the valves multiple times before you get it just right, I just got lucky on these.Thanks for watching!
thank you very much that helps a lot i appreciate it @@IndRepair
@@bobkernahan6340 glad to be able to help!
good video
Thanks for watching!
That helps to hear the engine noises, thanks. Ł I noticed you didn’t put any thread locker, just torqued. Is that common?
Blue loctite is common to use (manual calls for it) on the threads but in my opinion does nothing to help the bolts from backing out due to the major temperature difference the head goes through. Even after cured, the first time you fire up that engine the bond breaks
@@IndRepair thanks, always wondered if blue was even useful.
@@steveriggenbach90 I wish I would have remembered that Briggs recommended this in the repair manual, I would have mentioned it in the video and the reasons we do not use it. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair you give us hundreds of pcs of information. Hard to remember everything.
Nice job , no bs good video
Watched your video and fixed my tractor. In my situation I had spark on both sides so I did the test pulling a plug wire off of each side to see if she would die.... she did. I pulled the valve cover off and there it was, the bolt holding the rocker arm on the INTAKE valve had rattled off ... no air nor gas was getting in... the valve was stuck closed. I put it back together and gapped the rocker to the valve and started her up. WOW.. power! I tested the fix by cutting some wet grass and she ran very strong! All fixed. BUT ONE QUESTION... what if the exhaust valve was stuck closed and the engine was still getting fuel and air? How would she run.. or would she not run?
Awesome! Would still run on the opposite cylinder
Very good video thank you
Thanks for watching and for your comment
Where did you buy the Spark Check'r ?!
I got mine from a distributor but they are often able to be purchased at www.rcpw.com/rotary-16740-spark-checkr-ignition-tester-for-ign-engines/
Issue- valve guides moved. Valve actuates pushing guide back down in head same time bending pushrod or twisting rocker. Pop off springs and measure guide heights and check seal. My remedies is to remove head, drive out guides, cut groves in guides just below top surface of head. Reinstall guides and stake aluminum into grooves of guides. Heads will last life of engine. What causes this is heads getting too hot due to blocked cooling fins or lean conditions from intake leak.
Somebody installed the bottom rocker that way on this one but great tips! Thanks for watching!
DAMN GOOD INFORMATION
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I appreciate that!
I use threadlocker on the valve studs.
In my opinion it does not matter either way. The high heat, oil and fast temperature changes will render the loctite useless pretty quick. Thanks for the feedback! Thanks also for watching!
Do I see a crack in the head right behind the exhaust rocker? Could just be a mold seam but it sure looked like a crack on camera.
You talking to the bottom left of where the aluminum comes up to the mount? If so that is a seam, yes
@@IndRepair yep that’s it.
They come up quite a bit in these blocks for sure
@@IndRepairhappy new year 2024!!! I'm glad to see your videos again!!
@@breannaoliver6316 happy new year to you also! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Where are you from? Been watching your channel for a while now. lmk.
Thanks for watching! We are in Illinois. I appreciate the comments!
Is it ok to test by unplugging a spark plug wire while it's running?
Some recommend not to do it this way because the coil is not able to discharge but it is generally accepted in small engine repair and I do not ever find an issue with it. You have to be careful because it can zap you pretty good if you are not careful!
I got that same seat... I took that switch off and I thour it across the room.... what a bad idea....
Definitely!
Wow 26hp that was probably the selling point !!!
I am sure it was!
What about the 19 hp single cylinder?
Bogs when blades engaged.
Check carburetor and fuel supply
👌
Thanks for watching!
Tell me you adjusted the valves on the other head, changed that plug to match and changed the oil. If not, that's not acceptable.
We always take them all the way. Thanks for watching!
Also the possibility of the head had overheated at one point and the valve guides moved would cause bent pushrods as well! The intake was bent and you never determined what bent it!
It was determined what bent it. The exhaust valve rocker pivot was installed inproperly. Things can't heat up and warp if they don't run. This horrible mistake made the exhaust valve never close
if i was pulling the valve cover off i sure would have cleaned some of the dirt and grass off of it first. But I'm a professional.
Yes sir
If was a very good video. Thank you. I did mean to say I'm not a professional, but my finger got ahead of my brain.
I understand! Either way I just try to help people with the process sometimes I get out of my standard work mode since I am trying to do a video on it. Some of them are not good and you will see me make mistakes. I think they are getting much better. Thanks for watching