Incredibly useful video! Just a warning: There are two hidden air-horn screws not shown or mentioned in the video. Follow down along the choke blade. There are two flat countersunk screws next to the venturis. These kept me frustrated for a couple minutes. Thank you for the heads-up on those press-fit feed tubes. Both of the outer secondary feed tubes fell out when I removed the air-horn on my Quadrajet. I never would have known this or to look for them without this video. Even the Quadrajet “Bible”, written by Doug Roe, doesn’t warn you about this problem when removing the air-horn. I used a Torx T20 to remove all the air-horn and choke pull-off (aka: vacuum break) screws and a Torx T8 to detach the secondary metering rods holder.
At first those two screws kept me trying to pry the air horn off thinking the gasket had everything stuck together and decided to try those two screws and it came right off lol
Just a word of advice for anyone trying to do this. I had to redo it like 3 times because the gasket kept getting stuck over the little spring plunger on the TPS. Got it all back together and it set a code 21, because basically the plunger was being depressed completely. Use a wide putty knife to hold everything down, put the airhorn on, then pull out the putty knife. Got this advice from someone in the Classic Oldsmobile forum. Before bolting everything, ensure that the green plunger under the accelerator arm moves up and down, confirming that the TPS plunger made it through the gasket. Otherwise this video was very helpful! Thanks Brian!
I learned something new tonight. I knew and have known for 30 years about those two plug ins on my quadrajet carburetor on my 89 cadillac brougha,m, but never actually knew they were your TPS and one a speed sensor I am a master of mechanics at age 63, but never stop learning. Its because I dontstop earning is why I am the best
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thank you. Speaking of that TPS, heres something about mine on that cadillac. In 1999, my engine at idle would surge up and down. So I unplugged that3 prong plug and the surging stopped and the engine ran fine and the engine light never came on. Those quadrajets are fully mechanical. In 1999 I had about 60k miles on that car and have 111k on it today and it still works perfect with the stupid thing unplugged. I knew back then as an experienced machanic that had taken and rebuilt some of those quads over the years that no matter what that was it wouldnt matter as far as these have folats and float needles and adjustments on the linkage So I knew the foat bowl couldnt over fill and I knew the mechanical fuel pump could not be affected, so I knew it coudnt hurt anything as long as my engine idled okay while my AC compressor was engaged at a idle.
...I am so jealous... I have 1984 Olds 88 with a electronic q-jet... but life has been hard on her... a small fire a year ago wiped out alot of vacuum lines and the wiring to the carb... I have replaced the lines... got her running... just recently she couldn't get over 20 miles an hour... drinking gas like a sot... found the cat to be plugged up.... cut it off... presently running open pipe... and man is she a screamer now.... thank you for the guided tour thru her Hell.... btw I am a 58 year old wrench turner... spent many years with q-jets.... this video was enlightening... Dave
I have this same car and the "service engine soon" light comes on and off intermittently. All my research indicates the TPS is the most likely cause. Thank you for this video, because I had absolutely no idea where the TPS was located or how to go about replacing it.
Nice fix! A quick tip about those pickup tubes that fell out, once I reinstall them I always stake around the base of the tubes to ensure they won’t become loose again.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage you’re welcome, I’ve rebuilt 3 q jets, one went to an rv so it was critical to have the secondaries in good working order for pulling a 33 foot class A motorhome to 60mph.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage have you done a video on replacing the accelerator pump? I assume it is very similar to this, just replacing the pump instead of the TPS? Thanks again Brian!
Followed this and completed the job easily thanks. I have an 85 monte carlo ss 305 ho that all the vacuum lines are not put in thin the right places. Could you show a video on this please. I have a manual but cant seem to get it right
I swapped out the factory Quadra Jet on my 85 Caprice Coupe for an Edelbrock AVS2 1906 electric choke. And was curious if the MAP sensor or other components from quadrajet fittings make a difference. It moves alot better than before since I swapped it but wanna make sure I'm not running it poorly
You need to run a vacuum advance distributor on there now because the computer controls the advance but since you unplugged the carb the ECM is running in default mode now.
Man bro! You’re the best at this g body how-to’s. Quick question: The running lights on the back of my 83 olds’ don’t turn on when I turn my headlights. Changed fuses and still nothing. Works when I apply the breaks and turn signals. Any idea what can it be? Thanks in advance!
First, thanks for the compliment! Take a look at the white wire that comes off the large flat plug off the steering column down at the shaft. Might be split. Also look at the wires in the trunk for the rear harness.
2 things. One, didn’t mention the 2 little screws down inside the carb that need removed. And two, at least in my case, if you tighten down the front 2 bolts that go through the air horn into the intake manifold last like this video says to do, you cannot get the threads to engage. So get those started before you tighten anything. Overall good how-to!
Yeah forgot to mention the 2 screws inside the primaries. I have never had any issues getting the 2 long bolts started, ever so not sure on that. Appreciate you watching for your comments.
If I get my carb rebuild does the builder replace the tps and what about the blue mixture control Solenoid should that be replace while taking the carb apart
Im a little new at this, would you happen to know what the blue sensor is on the left side of the carburetor? Gonna rebuild a 1984 QJet might as well replace all the sensors too. Thanks in advance.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks codes on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It is well-lit! It comes in a black pouch. Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It retains the memory of test results. It checks solenoids and relays. It checks key-on and key-off codes. It checks memory codes. EBAY has it.
I got a 1989 Cadillac brougham that bought of my boss so all the vacuum lines were either plugged or wasn’t attached and I’m having a hard time understanding the diagram on the front. I can’t find any videos going over the vacuum lines is there anyway you can help?
I am having a heck of a time with that green plunger and hook that is right next to it. I tore the gasket with that darn hook thing. Any thoughts? I am fighting with it like crZy!
Did you ever check if the codes were still there. Mine go on and off. 21 and 45. Hard start, didn't do it right this time. Always takes me around 9 pumps to get the car started after sitting for a few days. I recently sprayed carb cleaner and engine degreaser on it with the air cleaner off, worried about that. But I think my TPS is old or the carb needs to be tuned & adjusted in another way. This problem existed before spraying the engine.
The one thing I would have done different is remove the carb. first. If you dropped anything while the carb. was on the car, it most likely be gone. Also those hold down bolts being loose, you would want to make sure the carb gasket to the manifold was not damaged. But this is a good video,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Had a question I recently did tune up on my 86 buick regal changed plugs wires distributor and rotor air filter and fuel filter car starts up fine and idles fine but when i put it in gear n give it gas it wants to die. Any thoughts?
Man, your videos are awesome. I've learned so much since i subscribed to your channel. It would be great if you made a video on how to install or replace the whole mechanism that holds up the trunk when you open it. Both my 83 cutlass and Regal are missing those parts. Thank you for all your informative videos and keep those G bodies rollin'.
Do all small-blocks idle that high? I grew up and first drove tbi and fuel injected cars. But have had a couple G-Body's and they all idled this fast. Was always worried it puts too much strain on the motor and raises the heat
Is there a range on the tps or is it simply working or not? I’m idling at 1200 and at 70 I’m around 3000rpm. You describe what is happening to mine but I don’t have any check engine lights Thx
So is the accelerator plunger/rod suppose to go in all the way or be resistant? It seems in your video it was pretty loose, so I don't know whats causing resistance to it in the air horn. Because if its suppose to go in all the way I have to open it up again at a later time, I still get the trouble code and check engine light. Any other tips, info, and knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks.
I followed all instructions but i believe the gasket is stuck but nomatter what i cant get it apart, even prying is just damaging the carb. Please help!
Oh man it has been some time since I tested one. Its a resistor so put the meter to measure resistance and the numbers should go up or drop as you move the plunger. Hold the meter leads to the middle terminal and either the top or bottom.
Check the TPS resistance from the Top to Middle connector and from the Top to Bottom connector. Service manual states that the resistance of both should be less than 20K ohms. If any is over 20K ohms, replace the TPS. The defective TPS in my Quadrajet was more than 89K ohms resistance. Brand-new replacement TPS checked out under 11K ohms.
Great Video. I did find one difference on mine - I have an 86 camaro with a 305 and my Quadrajet has two screws down inside the front ports that must be removed. Also, regarding the green choke linkage that goes down through the gasket, mine came out - how does that attached down inside the throttle body?
thanks for the reply. I replaced my TPS but now i've got a very high idle about 2000 rmp. I'm thinking i made a mistake with the choke somehow. Are there any common mistakes? any feedback would be great.
can you make a video about replacing the mixture control solenoid? its that blue plug you unplugged in this video. i have an 86 Firebird with the same carb and cannot find anything about that
Update: So the voltage is showing high, but my brother said the ground and power is ok, we did the procedure again to double check everything and put in the new spring and plunger the part came with which actually made the voltage higher. One thing different is the throttle plunger does not go in all the way, it did originally after the first time doing this, SO we are wondering if that is suppose to go in all the way? Although the car drives fine, if i floor the accelerator it responds just fine. To get the volts to the correct number, my brother had to hold the throttle arm a certain way but when he had it that way we could not connect it back and put the pin back in.
great video as always. I like your how-to videos. very detailed and very easy to follow. Do you have any videos on lower control arms replacement? KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING! !!!
I have a 86 Buick Regal I was driving on the free way and then it felt like the engine was surging Like if I was accelerating and stopping does it more on uphill I believe But still runs good ?
I am experimenting with a Rochester quad on an old 300 six, no computer, no emissions. I was wondering if you could tell me what the electric green thing on the choke side of the float is and can it simply ignored if there is no electronics?
Avoid overtightening those two front 1/2" bolts and the two rear, just wrench tight should be fine. Overtightening will warp the carburetor. They dont need to be tightened beyond 80inch-lb. The gaskets can be sprayed with silicone lubricant or vaseline to keep them from adhering to the surfaces.
@@grave8592 Put the correct Quadrajet back on it and return the Edelbrok. Aftermarket carbs are UNIVERSAL FIT and not designed to work specifically for applications and need modification to work. Have the original carb rebuilt and put it back on.
Can a bad throttle body sensor make your vehicle turns off when on drive and accelerating? I have a 81 Monte Carlo and it has that issue.when the car is on park engine runs fin but when I put it on drive an accelerate the car dies on me.
I have an 84 olds cutlass with a 307 and a quadrajet. After warm up, it idles high. I don't have any codes. Should i dial down the base idle screw on driver side of carb? Its a rebuilt carb and im wondering if it was never adjusted after warm up.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thanks. I'm gonna look up vacuum diagram and find a timing gun. I did replace my distributor but never looked at the timing afterwards. I just rotated the rotor cap until it started up.
hi I have a 1983 k5 blazer and I want to change the original carburetor to an Edelbrock but the original has sensors how can I change or how can I cancel the check engine light
I have a 3.8 in my Oldsmobile and now it started shuddering when I hit the pedal? But at idle runs great? It was running great before had did a light rebuild on it head gasket kit and new basics and ran great for a few years then I let it sat and just moved it so it won't get tagged and now it started shuddering and choke light is on haven't did the paperclip truck yet hopefully this week I can try to pull the codes
Brother can you send me a link on how to rebuild the carburetor on these. I have a 1987 Cutlass Supreme with a 307 4barrel Quadrajet carburetor model number 17086006.
I just rebuilt one. Didn't film it. Its the same for the most part as the older Qjets but should do video on the electronic ones. The key thing to keep in mind is you need to run the adjustment down until it stops for the blue MC Solenoid and count the turns before you then back out to remove it to then remove the float. When you put it back in you need to run it all the way down and then back it out the amount of turns the factory set it at. Usually 3.75-4 turns out.
So I did this, and I'm getting the same code (21), and now all my rpms are high, in park its around 1400/1500, in drive 800/900. I know it cant be the sensor. It drives fine as far as throttle response. And during warm up the car was going to 2000/2500 rpms when normally it only gets up to 1500 and its ready to go after i press the accelerator it drops to around 1000 in park. In the next few days I gotta check the voltage or try to adjust manually the air to fuel ratio, any tips or idea of what might be wrong would be greatly appreciated.
If it is still giving the same code then it is sensor related. Yep check the voltage of the sensor. It could still be the sensor or you have other fuel/air related issues. Vacuum leaks etc. Check all vacuum lines. check timing,
ok, I’m gonna try to see what the voltage is today and adjust the idle, it also seemed to be leaking a little bit, dark colored fuel I’m assuming, and the gasket seemed very wet for only being driven about 4/5 miles.
So I FIXED the warm up issue, the relative I let finish up alone and put some pieces back together because I had to rush to work put the green choke piece on incorrectly. It drives fine, rpms are close to normal with the difference being about 50 rpms (in drive) and 100-150 rpms in park. My brother whose a mechanic said disconnect the battery and see if the service light gets fixed with the computer resetting, he said he might not be able to make it today to check the volts, so if it continues, I gotta do that at a later time.
I got a question about switching the original/factory TH200 transmission for a 200R4...and this is on a 1984 cutlass supreme base model...original/factory 307 V8 with the 5A Heads Ported...
I also got the 21 code and did this step by step as you did but for some reason the light came back on so i thought it was maybe a different code so did the procedure to get the codes again and got the same 21 code so what could i have did wrong? I would really appreciate the help thanks
If the light is coming on after the replacment with a new part then you need to double check the little green plunger is moving the plunger on the sensor. Make sure it is functioning.
So ive been working on it since i got off work and removed the air horn and repeated the process with making sure the plunger is functioning and it is as i push it down its being pushed right back up by the tps sensor plunger but the light still came back im stuck what is my next step and on the link to the codes i read 21 means bad tps circuit but also mean wot meaning wide open throttle/tps adjustment so i have no clue what should my next step be?
Classic G-Body Garage so i redo the process again and either im really installing it wrong for the light to come back on again for the third time or maybe its the other side of the connection that might be bad thats what im thinkin but not to sure how can i find out if its getting power or if its a good connection also by other side of the plug i mean the male 3 prong end not the female end
I have a question ? I want to drop in a 1971 350 in my 88 cutlass I have a quarajet 4 barrel and a edelbrock 1406 carb are they almost the same carburetor.
I replaced the TPS in my 86 Monte Carlo SS today cause the serv eng soon light was on only at idle. It threw a code 13 and 21. The car is throwing the service eng soon light 24/7 now. What did I do wrong?
Is the TPS sensor functioning? When replacing the sensor there is risk of the plunger getting broken or the little metal plunger that pushes the TPS plunger falls out of the air horn of the carb and the TPS won't work at all. Many little things to pay attention to when replacing it.
I have had many requests on doing vacuum line videos. It is very difficult to pull something like that off because GM changed the configuration based on year and engine type. If I do a video for one vehicle it would only pertain to that car based on year and engine so the video would be very limited. The diagrams are a little difficult to follow but they do help. What I can suggest is locating people on FaceBook groups like Classic Gbody Garage and ask them if they can post or send you pictures based on the same year and engine type as your Gbody.
Ok thanks and I figured that because every carburetor video I have watched have all been a little different. Thanks again for the advise. Your a great help to us all!!
Hey, great video, I'm about to do this same procedure on my 86 cutlass (307 v8), I ordered the same gasket (part#1605) and was wondering if the new gasket you put on needed any glue or to just be put in place and fastened in. Thanks.
Hello, I have engine light on. Its 1986 caprice classic 305 with Rochester quadrajet. Checked engine light code and only displays code 12 nothing else. Car needed a little bit of gas from the pedal to drive but idled ok before rebuilding carb. Rebuilt carb but now when key is turned on there is a loud clicking noise coming from the carb, I suspect it is the tps clicking. I can start the car it will go into high idle but when switching to low idle it stalls right away. If I leave the key in ignition on the clicking stops, fire up the engine goes to high idle and when switching to low idle it stalls. Any suggestions? So far I have changed spark plugs and rebuilt carb i got plug wires and distributor coming soon to replace next. Any ideas why it starts up nicely and idles high decently but then after a couple seconds when switching to low idle it stalls? Regarda
The clicking is the MC Solenoid and it is suppose to do that and stop if you don't start the car. If it is stalling then you may have a vacuum leak so check for that. Also make sure you adjusted the MC Solenoid correctly when you put the carb back together. That would also factory in any running issues. Thanks for watching.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage thank you for your reply and knowledge. I looked for cracked or unplugged vacuum lines but did not find any that looked suspect. Now when I rebuild the carb it did not come with instructions as far as the mc solenoid adjustment goes so I will keep looking for the information... maybe you can point me in the right direction where to look. Regards
do you have 1 that shows how to connect to vacuum hose on 87 cutlass.also my car idle at like 2-3 rpm how do I get to 1.when I'm going 60 it goes to 6 rpm but it runs fine a.c and all
Classic G-Body Garage Thanks for the reply. I tried snuging them all down. Didn't fix the problem, but I also forgot to reset the ecm and the gasket is soaked with gas, so it's probably shot
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So what the blue plug for I unhooked mine and runs better without it any help would be great 😉 love this cars
Yes I
Am you
@@JuanRivera-rl2fd ok thanks
Incredibly useful video! Just a warning: There are two hidden air-horn screws not shown or mentioned in the video. Follow down along the choke blade. There are two flat countersunk screws next to the venturis. These kept me frustrated for a couple minutes.
Thank you for the heads-up on those press-fit feed tubes. Both of the outer secondary feed tubes fell out when I removed the air-horn on my Quadrajet. I never would have known this or to look for them without this video. Even the Quadrajet “Bible”, written by Doug Roe, doesn’t warn you about this problem when removing the air-horn.
I used a Torx T20 to remove all the air-horn and choke pull-off (aka: vacuum break) screws and a Torx T8 to detach the secondary metering rods holder.
Happy to help out and thanks for the tips as well!
At first those two screws kept me trying to pry the air horn off thinking the gasket had everything stuck together and decided to try those two screws and it came right off lol
Just a word of advice for anyone trying to do this. I had to redo it like 3 times because the gasket kept getting stuck over the little spring plunger on the TPS. Got it all back together and it set a code 21, because basically the plunger was being depressed completely. Use a wide putty knife to hold everything down, put the airhorn on, then pull out the putty knife. Got this advice from someone in the Classic Oldsmobile forum. Before bolting everything, ensure that the green plunger under the accelerator arm moves up and down, confirming that the TPS plunger made it through the gasket. Otherwise this video was very helpful! Thanks Brian!
Good advice. Yes just be careful on how it all goes together.
Classic G-Body Garage It was driving me crazy! Haha. But I was determined to make it work :)
This one of the best detailed, verbal, visual video I’ve seen, keep up the great work 👍
Appreciate that
I learned something new tonight. I knew and have known for 30 years about those two plug ins on my quadrajet carburetor on my 89 cadillac brougha,m, but never actually knew they were your TPS and one a speed sensor I am a master of mechanics at age 63, but never stop learning. Its because I dontstop earning is why I am the best
Very cool!
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thank you. Speaking of that TPS, heres something about mine on that cadillac. In 1999, my engine at idle would surge up and down. So I unplugged that3 prong plug and the surging stopped and the engine ran fine and the engine light never came on. Those quadrajets are fully mechanical. In 1999 I had about 60k miles on that car and have 111k on it today and it still works perfect with the stupid thing unplugged. I knew back then as an experienced machanic that had taken and rebuilt some of those quads over the years that no matter what that was it wouldnt matter as far as these have folats and float needles and adjustments on the linkage So I knew the foat bowl couldnt over fill and I knew the mechanical fuel pump could not be affected, so I knew it coudnt hurt anything as long as my engine idled okay while my AC compressor was engaged at a idle.
...I am so jealous... I have 1984 Olds 88 with a electronic q-jet... but life has been hard on her... a small fire a year ago wiped out alot of vacuum lines and the wiring to the carb... I have replaced the lines... got her running... just recently she couldn't get over 20 miles an hour... drinking gas like a sot... found the cat to be plugged up.... cut it off... presently running open pipe... and man is she a screamer now.... thank you for the guided tour thru her Hell.... btw I am a 58 year old wrench turner... spent many years with q-jets.... this video was enlightening... Dave
Thanks Dave!
I seen this video three times and it was very helpful with my 1982 Monte Carlo v8 305
And with a 1985 Pontiac trans am 305 v8 as well
Meticulously well explained; it's nice to have a no frills carburetor erudite on You Tube. Rochester E4ME Quadrajet lives on!
I have this same car and the "service engine soon" light comes on and off intermittently. All my research indicates the TPS is the most likely cause. Thank you for this video, because I had absolutely no idea where the TPS was located or how to go about replacing it.
Nice fix! A quick tip about those pickup tubes that fell out, once I reinstall them I always stake around the base of the tubes to ensure they won’t become loose again.
good tip! thanks
@@ClassicGBodyGarage you’re welcome, I’ve rebuilt 3 q jets, one went to an rv so it was critical to have the secondaries in good working order for pulling a 33 foot class A motorhome to 60mph.
Starting to learn more and more on how to work on Quadrajet carburetors thanks to your videos thanks G Body guys
Glad to help
Great video! I did this a couple of weekends ago and this video was extremely helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
@@ClassicGBodyGarage have you done a video on replacing the accelerator pump? I assume it is very similar to this, just replacing the pump instead of the TPS? Thanks again Brian!
Followed this and completed the job easily thanks. I have an 85 monte carlo ss 305 ho that all the vacuum lines are not put in thin the right places. Could you show a video on this please. I have a manual but cant seem to get it right
I was just looking for info on my Q-jet and ran across this video. NIce job.
Glad I could help!
Great how to! I’m going to do this here this week
Excellent video and well explained 👏 you have a great passion for the craft and that's something we don't really see to much of now days somewhat 😀
Thank you very much!
I swapped out the factory Quadra Jet on my 85 Caprice Coupe for an Edelbrock AVS2 1906 electric choke. And was curious if the MAP sensor or other components from quadrajet fittings make a difference. It moves alot better than before since I swapped it but wanna make sure I'm not running it poorly
You need to run a vacuum advance distributor on there now because the computer controls the advance but since you unplugged the carb the ECM is running in default mode now.
Great video! What is that Blue plug called?
Man bro! You’re the best at this g body how-to’s. Quick question: The running lights on the back of my 83 olds’ don’t turn on when I turn my headlights. Changed fuses and still nothing. Works when I apply the breaks and turn signals. Any idea what can it be? Thanks in advance!
First, thanks for the compliment! Take a look at the white wire that comes off the large flat plug off the steering column down at the shaft. Might be split. Also look at the wires in the trunk for the rear harness.
Big G-Body fan here love the vids !
great video i like how detailed it you make em ive learned alot on qjets thanks to you my 88 caprice carb looks the same as the one in this vid
Cool video Brian. Brings back memories.
thanks
2 things. One, didn’t mention the 2 little screws down inside the carb that need removed. And two, at least in my case, if you tighten down the front 2 bolts that go through the air horn into the intake manifold last like this video says to do, you cannot get the threads to engage. So get those started before you tighten anything. Overall good how-to!
Yeah forgot to mention the 2 screws inside the primaries. I have never had any issues getting the 2 long bolts started, ever so not sure on that. Appreciate you watching for your comments.
Big thank you man for this video, was very helpful
If I get my carb rebuild does the builder replace the tps and what about the blue mixture control Solenoid should that be replace while taking the carb apart
thats up to your builder to test them to make sure they are functional.
Im a little new at this, would you happen to know what the blue sensor is on the left side of the carburetor? Gonna rebuild a 1984 QJet might as well replace all the sensors too. Thanks in advance.
MC Solenoid
when I had my 87 second day I tore all emissions ecm and put a eldebrock carb on it ran alot better then my 84 307 did
I replaced my 305 to 350 with everything Edelbrock any help will work thank you...
Did you do that on a regal 3.8 motor?
@TruckerErikJourney’s
I have a 85 buick lesabre with a 307 this video helped me out. Thanks
Love to hear this!
18:41 Thanks for sharing🍻
16:41 Found it on the garage floor🤔
'83 Riviera- 5.0L 307 For Sale!
We'll be subscribing👍💪🍻🦅🦅🦅🦅
Your videos are great. Thank you for making them!
and thank you for watching them!
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks codes on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It is well-lit! It comes in a black pouch. Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It retains the memory of test results. It checks solenoids and relays. It checks key-on and key-off codes. It checks memory codes. EBAY has it.
awesome I will check it out!
Hey what about the adjustment on the tps you should've checked it to make sure things are correct....
I got a 1989 Cadillac brougham that bought of my boss so all the vacuum lines were either plugged or wasn’t attached and I’m having a hard time understanding the diagram on the front. I can’t find any videos going over the vacuum lines is there anyway you can help?
All I can suggest is study the diagram closely and you will figure it out.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage I figured it out there’s only 2 I don’t know is the Man Vac the manifold vacuum?
@@russiangaymer7443 yes
Ive seen some people have to somehow adjust the voltage on the sensor, do you have to do that? I guess it takes some special tool
There is a capped off screw to adjust the movement of the TPS. You need the proper tool to do so. There are videos out there to perform this.
Great video!!
I am having a heck of a time with that green plunger and hook that is right next to it. I tore the gasket with that darn hook thing. Any thoughts? I am fighting with it like crZy!
put a little grease on the plunger so it stays in place. They are a total pain. I have broken the sensor before. Just take your time.
Definitely help with my 85 monte carlo ss
Thank you
Did you ever check if the codes were still there. Mine go on and off. 21 and 45. Hard start, didn't do it right this time. Always takes me around 9 pumps to get the car started after sitting for a few days. I recently sprayed carb cleaner and engine degreaser on it with the air cleaner off, worried about that. But I think my TPS is old or the carb needs to be tuned & adjusted in another way. This problem existed before spraying the engine.
The one thing I would have done different is remove the carb. first. If you dropped anything while the carb. was on the car, it most likely be gone. Also those hold down bolts being loose, you would want to make sure the carb gasket to the manifold was not damaged. But this is a good video,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Agree, easier to do the job off the car. I have done it both ways.
Had a question I recently did tune up on my 86 buick regal changed plugs wires distributor and rotor air filter and fuel filter car starts up fine and idles fine but when i put it in gear n give it gas it wants to die. Any thoughts?
Vacuum line leaks? Timing ok? Dirty carb.
Man, your videos are awesome. I've learned so much since i subscribed to your channel. It would be great if you made a video on how to install or replace the whole mechanism that holds up the trunk when you open it. Both my 83 cutlass and Regal are missing those parts. Thank you for all your informative videos and keep those G bodies rollin'.
Thanks man! Glad you are learning. Thats why I make these vids. I can to a torsion bar video. Thanks for the suggestion.
Also the Regals didn't have them. They used strong arm shocks.
I'm looking for a header panel for the same 87, 442 do you have any ideas??
I am looking for one myself. Just need to hunt all avenues.
Do all small-blocks idle that high? I grew up and first drove tbi and fuel injected cars. But have had a couple G-Body's and they all idled this fast. Was always worried it puts too much strain on the motor and raises the heat
that mixture control solenoid, is it the same for a two barrel electric carburetor in my 85 Buick Regal
Thanks for the video, I will be replacing that sensor in my 86 monte Carlo ss.
Thanks for watching
Is there a range on the tps or is it simply working or not? I’m idling at 1200 and at 70 I’m around 3000rpm. You describe what is happening to mine but I don’t have any check engine lights
Thx
So is the accelerator plunger/rod suppose to go in all the way or be resistant? It seems in your video it was pretty loose, so I don't know whats causing resistance to it in the air horn. Because if its suppose to go in all the way I have to open it up again at a later time, I still get the trouble code and check engine light. Any other tips, info, and knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have the same carb that you are working on and am unable to remove the float, any info would help..
They pull right out. If its stuck I can't say what would be the issue unless the carb is corroded.
I followed all instructions but i believe the gasket is stuck but nomatter what i cant get it apart, even prying is just damaging the carb. Please help!
Is there a way to test a sensor? I got one off and old Quadrajet I had lying around..thanks in advance
Oh man it has been some time since I tested one. Its a resistor so put the meter to measure resistance and the numbers should go up or drop as you move the plunger. Hold the meter leads to the middle terminal and either the top or bottom.
Check the TPS resistance from the Top to Middle connector and from the Top to Bottom connector.
Service manual states that the resistance of both should be less than 20K ohms. If any is over 20K ohms, replace the TPS.
The defective TPS in my Quadrajet was more than 89K ohms resistance. Brand-new replacement TPS checked out under 11K ohms.
If I remember correctly, when I a was a teen, I disconnected the computer on my '81 Bonneville and it ran fine, if not better then with the computer.
James B Did it leave a indicator light on in dash ?
Great Video. I did find one difference on mine - I have an 86 camaro with a 305 and my Quadrajet has two screws down inside the front ports that must be removed. Also, regarding the green choke linkage that goes down through the gasket, mine came out - how does that attached down inside the throttle body?
Green choke plate rod hooks back into a tab. Check out my carb rebuilding video. I show how to install it.
thanks for the reply. I replaced my TPS but now i've got a very high idle about 2000 rmp. I'm thinking i made a mistake with the choke somehow. Are there any common mistakes? any feedback would be great.
can you make a video about replacing the mixture control solenoid? its that blue plug you unplugged in this video. i have an 86 Firebird with the same carb and cannot find anything about that
What is the green sensor on top of carburetor?
MC Solenoid
Update: So the voltage is showing high, but my brother said the ground and power is ok, we did the procedure again to double check everything and put in the new spring and plunger the part came with which actually made the voltage higher. One thing different is the throttle plunger does not go in all the way, it did originally after the first time doing this, SO we are wondering if that is suppose to go in all the way? Although the car drives fine, if i floor the accelerator it responds just fine. To get the volts to the correct number, my brother had to hold the throttle arm a certain way but when he had it that way we could not connect it back and put the pin back in.
Correction, he had to hold the Throttle rod in a certain way, but then we couldn't connect the arm back while in that position.
great video as always. I like your how-to videos. very detailed and very easy to follow. Do you have any videos on lower control arms replacement? KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING! !!!
Thank you for your comment. I do not have videos on control arm replacement. Just be careful with the springs, use proper spring compressor.
I have a 86 Buick Regal I was driving on the free way and then it felt like the engine was surging
Like if I was accelerating and stopping does it more on uphill I believe
But still runs good ?
Fuel starvation, vacuum leak or sloppy worn timing chain.
Excellent video. 👍🏻
Thank you! 👍
What was the issue to cause you to replace the tps?
I am experimenting with a Rochester quad on an old 300 six, no computer, no emissions. I was wondering if you could tell me what the electric green thing on the choke side of the float is and can it simply ignored if there is no electronics?
Would the qjet work right if the metering rods arent plugged up? The little blue plugin on the front left.
How do you test the TPS on the bench?
Great video! Thanks for the help!!
Thank you very much i replaced mine today 🙏
Glad it helped
How difficult was it? I am going to replace my soon.
Avoid overtightening those two front 1/2" bolts and the two rear, just wrench tight should be fine. Overtightening will warp the carburetor. They dont need to be tightened beyond 80inch-lb.
The gaskets can be sprayed with silicone lubricant or vaseline to keep them from adhering to the surfaces.
All great suggestions. Thanks for your support and comment.
Thanks a lot for sharing this!
I have a Chevy impala 305 angine I Swap the carburetor for Avs 2 edelbrok but we’re I connect does 2 plugs in the new carburetor
you don't
So how I make the transmission shift the gears in the car
@@grave8592 Put the correct Quadrajet back on it and return the Edelbrok. Aftermarket carbs are UNIVERSAL FIT and not designed to work specifically for applications and need modification to work. Have the original carb rebuilt and put it back on.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage thank you bro 😀
thanks for that , also can you make a video on rebuilding a quadrajet that be awesome.
Great video! I learned something new about these carbs. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
awesome video Brian
thanks
Can a bad throttle body sensor make your vehicle turns off when on drive and accelerating? I have a 81 Monte Carlo and it has that issue.when the car is on park engine runs fin but when I put it on drive an accelerate the car dies on me.
hey man question how can I read my rpo codes? I'm trying to find out what rear end I have in my 87 cutlass salon
Google RPO codes and there are sites to decode them. I can do a video on that. Thanks for the suggestion.
thank you sir. i really apreciate it. my next order is to install a oil pressuregauge.
Is the mixture con. Sol. Hold down screw tightened to bottom or is it at a set height or turns. 79 firebird turbo.
A 79 doesn't use an electronic carb.
I have an 84 olds cutlass with a 307 and a quadrajet. After warm up, it idles high. I don't have any codes. Should i dial down the base idle screw on driver side of carb? Its a rebuilt carb and im wondering if it was never adjusted after warm up.
Check timing and check for vacuum leaks as that will cause a high idle. Make sure choke is working correctly as well.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage
Thanks. I'm gonna look up vacuum diagram and find a timing gun. I did replace my distributor but never looked at the timing afterwards. I just rotated the rotor cap until it started up.
hi I have a 1983 k5 blazer and I want to change the original carburetor to an Edelbrock but the original has sensors how can I change or how can I cancel the check engine light
Get a vacuum advance distributor if it doesnt have one already and then unplug the computer.
i didnt realize that these had feedback carbs. are they similar to the contemporary Chryslers in that they have a black box somewhere?
They have a computer in the passenger side kick panel.
Did not know that. Great to be always learning. Thank you!
Your welcome. I always enjoy learning new things too.
I have a 3.8 in my Oldsmobile and now it started shuddering when I hit the pedal? But at idle runs great? It was running great before had did a light rebuild on it head gasket kit and new basics and ran great for a few years then I let it sat and just moved it so it won't get tagged and now it started shuddering and choke light is on haven't did the paperclip truck yet hopefully this week I can try to pull the codes
Start with the basics and go from there.
What does it mean when your oil choke light is on?
@@ClassicGBodyGarage I think my cam is flat on one side I'm going to test pressure of each cylinder
@@albertano6969 uselly a bad choke or dirty carb , or possible bad vacum wireing
Brother can you send me a link on how to rebuild the carburetor on these. I have a 1987 Cutlass Supreme with a 307 4barrel Quadrajet carburetor model number 17086006.
I just rebuilt one. Didn't film it. Its the same for the most part as the older Qjets but should do video on the electronic ones. The key thing to keep in mind is you need to run the adjustment down until it stops for the blue MC Solenoid and count the turns before you then back out to remove it to then remove the float. When you put it back in you need to run it all the way down and then back it out the amount of turns the factory set it at. Usually 3.75-4 turns out.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage that's under the blue wiring harness connector right?
So I did this, and I'm getting the same code (21), and now all my rpms are high, in park its around 1400/1500, in drive 800/900. I know it cant be the sensor. It drives fine as far as throttle response. And during warm up the car was going to 2000/2500 rpms when normally it only gets up to 1500 and its ready to go after i press the accelerator it drops to around 1000 in park. In the next few days I gotta check the voltage or try to adjust manually the air to fuel ratio, any tips or idea of what might be wrong would be greatly appreciated.
If it is still giving the same code then it is sensor related. Yep check the voltage of the sensor. It could still be the sensor or you have other fuel/air related issues. Vacuum leaks etc. Check all vacuum lines. check timing,
ok, I’m gonna try to see what the voltage is today and adjust the idle, it also seemed to be leaking a little bit, dark colored fuel I’m assuming, and the gasket seemed very wet for only being driven about 4/5 miles.
So I FIXED the warm up issue, the relative I let finish up alone and put some pieces back together because I had to rush to work put the green choke piece on incorrectly. It drives fine, rpms are close to normal with the difference being about 50 rpms (in drive) and 100-150 rpms in park. My brother whose a mechanic said disconnect the battery and see if the service light gets fixed with the computer resetting, he said he might not be able to make it today to check the volts, so if it continues, I gotta do that at a later time.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage That's a reply I made on another site about busting out the window. (From Hank Bridges.) My phone is acting up.
I got a question about switching the original/factory TH200 transmission for a 200R4...and this is on a 1984 cutlass supreme base model...original/factory 307 V8 with the 5A Heads Ported...
you need the correct cross member, drive shaft and linkage for the overdrive trans.
I also got the 21 code and did this step by step as you did but for some reason the light came back on so i thought it was maybe a different code so did the procedure to get the codes again and got the same 21 code so what could i have did wrong? I would really appreciate the help thanks
If the light is coming on after the replacment with a new part then you need to double check the little green plunger is moving the plunger on the sensor. Make sure it is functioning.
Classic G-Body Garage ok thanks ill check it out tomorrow after work
So ive been working on it since i got off work and removed the air horn and repeated the process with making sure the plunger is functioning and it is as i push it down its being pushed right back up by the tps sensor plunger but the light still came back im stuck what is my next step and on the link to the codes i read 21 means bad tps circuit but also mean wot meaning wide open throttle/tps adjustment so i have no clue what should my next step be?
Classic G-Body Garage so i redo the process again and either im really installing it wrong for the light to come back on again for the third time or maybe its the other side of the connection that might be bad thats what im thinkin but not to sure how can i find out if its getting power or if its a good connection also by other side of the plug i mean the male 3 prong end not the female end
You need to make sure the new TPS is any good then with an Ohm meeter.
I have a question ? I want to drop in a 1971 350 in my 88 cutlass I have a quarajet 4 barrel and a edelbrock 1406 carb are they almost the same carburetor.
Does the little chrome hook on the air horn next to the little rod, does it hold down the TPS inside?
The airhorn holds it down.
What would cause it to leak from top of carb looks like around the green sensor
There is a seal there.
I have the same issue, leak around that green sensor too. Would I need a new gasket? Thanks in advance!
I replaced the TPS in my 86 Monte Carlo SS today cause the serv eng soon light was on only at idle. It threw a code 13 and 21. The car is throwing the service eng soon light 24/7 now. What did I do wrong?
Is the TPS sensor functioning? When replacing the sensor there is risk of the plunger getting broken or the little metal plunger that pushes the TPS plunger falls out of the air horn of the carb and the TPS won't work at all. Many little things to pay attention to when replacing it.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage The TPS is functioning. The little plunger is still there too. I'm scratching my head on this one...
I have a 83 Cutlass Supreme I'm wondering what motor mounts and brackets I need I am switching the V6 to a SBC 350 please any help will be appreciated
You need CAR NOT TRUCK SBC frame brackets and engine mounts.
Would you consider doing one showing where vacuum lines run to a carburetor like this.
I have had many requests on doing vacuum line videos. It is very difficult to pull something like that off because GM changed the configuration based on year and engine type. If I do a video for one vehicle it would only pertain to that car based on year and engine so the video would be very limited. The diagrams are a little difficult to follow but they do help. What I can suggest is locating people on FaceBook groups like Classic Gbody Garage and ask them if they can post or send you pictures based on the same year and engine type as your Gbody.
Ok thanks and I figured that because every carburetor video I have watched have all been a little different. Thanks again for the advise. Your a great help to us all!!
Thanks for watching!
God job
my 84 olds 307 shows high positive on throttle sensor in codes? what the fix?
Replace the TPS
@@ClassicGBodyGarage ITS A NEW CARBURETOR JUST ORDERED IT BECAUSE OLD ONE WAS BAD, IT WAS DOING IT WITH THE OLD ONE TOO?
@@AntoineFinch If it was doing it with the old one then there are other issues. Computer is possibly bad.
Hey, great video, I'm about to do this same procedure on my 86 cutlass (307 v8), I ordered the same gasket (part#1605) and was wondering if the new gasket you put on needed any glue or to just be put in place and fastened in. Thanks.
Gasket goes on dry. Sealer would block the little ports. Never use any type of gasket sealer on a carb.
Will do, thanks again.
Will this fix 24 code as well
If that sensor not hooked up would that make the car rpm stay up high?
Yes
I remember doing these on all types of GM's from this era. Is this why all your personal g-bodies are 1980 and older? (no c.c.c.?)
I like the look of the 78-80 era but yes don't like the ECM BS on the new Gs.
Hello,
I have engine light on. Its 1986 caprice classic 305 with Rochester quadrajet. Checked engine light code and only displays code 12 nothing else. Car needed a little bit of gas from the pedal to drive but idled ok before rebuilding carb. Rebuilt carb but now when key is turned on there is a loud clicking noise coming from the carb, I suspect it is the tps clicking. I can start the car it will go into high idle but when switching to low idle it stalls right away. If I leave the key in ignition on the clicking stops, fire up the engine goes to high idle and when switching to low idle it stalls. Any suggestions? So far I have changed spark plugs and rebuilt carb i got plug wires and distributor coming soon to replace next. Any ideas why it starts up nicely and idles high decently but then after a couple seconds when switching to low idle it stalls?
Regarda
The clicking is the MC Solenoid and it is suppose to do that and stop if you don't start the car. If it is stalling then you may have a vacuum leak so check for that. Also make sure you adjusted the MC Solenoid correctly when you put the carb back together. That would also factory in any running issues. Thanks for watching.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage thank you for your reply and knowledge. I looked for cracked or unplugged vacuum lines but did not find any that looked suspect. Now when I rebuild the carb it did not come with instructions as far as the mc solenoid adjustment goes so I will keep looking for the information... maybe you can point me in the right direction where to look.
Regards
@@TN1337X 4 turns out from when it bottoms out is an ideal starting point.
do you have 1 that shows how to connect to vacuum hose on 87 cutlass.also my car idle at like 2-3 rpm how do I get to 1.when I'm going 60 it goes to 6 rpm but it runs fine a.c and all
My 85 bonneville doesn't throw any codes, but it idles anywhere from 1200-1500 rpm normally. I might have to try this.
Also, is there a torque sheet for those bolts?
Snug them all as evenly as possible. Thats what I do but yes I am sure there are specs you can find online.
Classic G-Body Garage Thanks for the reply. I tried snuging them all down. Didn't fix the problem, but I also forgot to reset the ecm and the gasket is soaked with gas, so it's probably shot
great work, man.
thanks
How did you know what airhorn gasket to order? Can you tell me where the part number is located on my carb? Thank you.
I knew by the carb number that is located on the drivers side of the carb on the side running vertical.
Thanks - found my part number there.
what about the adjustment for voltage on the sensor?
The factory adjustment is capped and you leave it alone