DUDE YOU ARE A LEGEND! This video helped so much with the start up and idle issues I had with my '79 Firebird and I feel like I've learned so much and saved so much money. THANK YOU!
I love the comprehensive breakdown you filmed. Getting ready to rebuilt my M2ME for my '81 Camaro. Out of curiosity, is there a rebuilt kit you recommend for my application? RockAuto has a few options I'm eyeballing. Thanks for the video!
I did a quick google search but I’m wondering how hard it would be to get the measurement tools you used for setting the float and choke angle for high and low idle? I think I’ve studied this periodically over the last year. Thank you for providing this video! I’ve never rebuilt a carb before and I’m Mentally preparing my self to rebuild my 1979 duel jet.
www.ebay.ca/itm/235216254090?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ibwwcfnts5a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY That's angle gage. As far as the float level is concerned a Verner scale will work.
All the external circuits or vacuum lines have their purposes. If everything is functional as it should be the only line I'd cap is the EGR vacuum line. If you're in a warm climate then you could disable or delete the hot air intake in the air filter housing. If your Cruise control is not working you could delete that line so long as it does not affect the heater controls.
Awesome Tutorial’. Im having a tough time with a 1982 3.8L Regal Off idle Bog on Dynoed Rebuilt Carb . Im about ready to just disconnect Wire to CeL light and just go to this Carb. I’m ready to fly you out here to Wny to get this thing right !
You mentioned CEL so I take it this is a feedback carb. There are dozens of possibilities to cause a bog or hesitation. Is the base ignition timing correct. Is the system in fuel control? Codes? What happens if you unplug the mixture solenoid? Is the TPS voltage sweeping normal?
@@PhillipBailey Feedback yes’ base timing correct,Tps new’ and I haven’t had the car in my hands to try unplugging M/C to see results. What was odd was last year before putting this car in Storage was it had no Cel light but had off idle bog with new Accelerator Pump. Beginning of this Season i had the Dreaded Dead battery Si Alternator ( deMagnetize) and after sorting that it would run Fine with Distributor unplugged but obviously = Cel light . This Regal has been a nightmare . Its completely Restored but can’t give this car back to owner (Bills/Sabres) in this condition 🤦🏻. I appreciate your help as these Early Feedbacks are a notorious nightmare!
@mrmoparrr those systems were pretty primitive. I'd start by acquiring an OBD1 scan tool that can connect to the ALDL under the dash to scan it for codes, there is a data list available and I'd want to see proper MAP, TPS, Barometric and coolant temp readings. Unplugging the MC solenoid will cause the fuel delivery to go rich. With it plugged in you should hear the MC solenoid clicking rapidly KOEO. There is a green wire near the carb that is the MC solenoid test terminal. You can use an old school dwell meter set on 6 cylinder dwell mode to test the dwell at the MC test wire. In closed loop it should be switching between 10 and 50 degrees. In open loop fixed at 30 degrees. Be sure the distributor is plugged in and that the timing advances as the rpm increases. When the ECM dies on these cars there is usually no cel and MC solenoid operation. Test battery power, ignition and ground to the ECM. Good luck
good morning friend, when you adjust the float, what size did you give it? Could you tell me the measurements he gave you but in millimeters. since I don't understand those units. Sorry my bad english
Nice video to watch! Thanks! I'm having a bit of troubles with a rochester dualjet 210 on my 79 pontiac Grandprix, do you might have any tips for me? It is bogging/hesitating when putting the gaspedal full throttle, when i give it a little bit of gas and build up the rpms slowly, then it has no problem wide out throttle. Greetings!
Could be the power valve is stuck. You can test it though the vent tube in the front center of the carb. With the engine off and using a small screwdriver it should be up and you can push it down about 1/4" to feel the spring and movement.
@@PhillipBailey i did remove it and I was not sure where it was set or how to re set it properly. I went off photos i took while disassembly. So I will look into that, thank you again!
@@joeyelson8256 there is an aluminum plug in the top section of the carb float bowl. If you remove that plug you can then use a tool to adjust that stop screw up. Remove the plug by drilling into the center of it with a 1/8" drill bit. Screw in a self tapping screw and pry the plug out with a forked tool. There was an actual tool for turning the screw as its oval if I remember correctly. I remember making one with a piece of 3/16" steel line squeezed oval in a vise. Turn the stop screw up or counter clockwise to lift the power valve and richen fuel delivery. Start about 2 turns from the bottom. There were no specs for this screw as it was initially adjusted with the carb on a flow testing device and each carb was a bit different. Keep raising the screw and road testing til the bog is eliminated. Once set lightly tap the plug back in place. It's about 1/4" thick by the way.
wow it is been a good will since i did rochester 2 barel .if i remenber well that idle selenoid is for when the ac is aply..i could be wrong about that .. good video thank
Some were used as an anti-dieseling control. Was energized with the ignition on and deenrgized key off allowing the throttle blade to close preventing runon. Some of the later v6 and 4 cylinders used them as you mentioned to bump up the idle when the AC compressor kicked on.
question, the needle's going true the jets.. but I want to know, when the vacc activate and suck the needles true jets and restrict the gas flow.. the needle block totally the gas flow or how much the needle is open to pass gas true?
Yes vacuum pulls the needles down into the jets restricting them but not closing them completely. Under a heavy load the vacuum will drop and the spring will lift the tapered needles out of the jets allowing more fuel and therfore more power. That piston is called a power piston.
I rebuild a 17082132 dualjet using this as a general guide, installed it and it's running super rich. I asked a mechanic who's had experience with these. He mentioned they can weep fuel through the fuel bowl straight past the butterfly valves, is this something anyone else has heard I can't seem to find any documentation on this issue he said it was fairly common.
Yes he's right. There are two crimped into place plugs that are in the bottom of the float bowl that could leak but it could also be due to the float level being too high or the float actually sinking. Did you replace the float? Could also be leaking needle and seat. Can you see fuel dripping from the main jets at idle. If so the float has sunk, float level is too high, needle and seat are leaking or the power piston is too high or not being pulled down by engine vacuum. If its leaking from those plugs you can see that with the carb off and fuel bowl full of gasoline.
@@PhillipBailey I wasn't able to see fuel from the top, I replaced everything excluding the fuel solenoid. The car was running ok just wanted to do a once over. How would you recommend fixing the plugs if it is the issue?
@@PhillipBailey yup, I'm actually a gm parts counter employee, I was able to get the full break down pictures of it. It's a 1983 229v6 in a Elco. Still hooked up to the emissions loop & "active loop"
@imwatchingnotreally7433 does the mixture control solenoid click repeatedly with the ignition on about 2 times per second? If not the solenoid is not moving the needle valves up and down in the jets. They are spring loaded to full rich. Does the check engine light come on with the key? One of thr wires the the mixture solenoid should be live with the key on. The other wire is duty cycled by switching the ground on and off by the computer. Check fuses. You could also connect a conventional test light to the MC solenoid and with the ignition on the light should be flickering.
Buenas tardes amigo yo estaba desarmando mi carburador y saque ese tornillo q uste menciona q no se debe tocar alguien me podría guiar para colocarlo como estaba el carro me tarda mucho para prender
If it is screwed all the way in it will be super lean. There is an aluminum plug in the top part of the cover that you can pull out by drilling into it and threading a sheet metal screw into it and prying it up and out. There is a special wrench for adjusting it up or down but you can use a piece of 3/216" tube squeezed oval. Start about two turns from fully down and adjust it 1/2 turn up at a time until there's no bog or hesitation on mild acceleration. Hth
@stevenmunoz5360 most of tge information sites like Alldatadiy.com and Identifix don't go back that far. What circuit are you trying to troubleshoot? Possibly Haynes manual could help.
Man great video. I HATE THIS CARB. for some reason I absolutely cannot get the carb to snap back like that one does. And omg don’t get me started on trying the get the pump and needles to agree with the gasket.
@teabags3632 is the fast idle setting keeping the throttle from closing. There's an adjustment screw under the choke housing that comes into affect when the choke is on.
@@PhillipBailey figured it out and not sure how this happened but the butterfly was slightly miss aligned like just one of the circles. It was hitting the body of the carb not allowing it to shut. I’ve got it back on there now and it fires right up but now I have to deal with getting it tuned in
yes I guess I should have noted that this was Canadian emissions. You guys had feedback carburetors from 1977 til fuel injection. In Canada we only saw them on some higher end cars like Buick Park Avenues and some Cadillacs.
👍🏾 Great breakdown video absolutely the best dueljet carburator video on TH-cam
Thanks. Don't get too many carb rebuilds anymore around here.
How much would you charge to rebuild my dual jet??? It's on my 1980 Malibu
Very good tutorial!! sounding like Elwood blues makes it a pleasure to listen to🙂
DUDE YOU ARE A LEGEND! This video helped so much with the start up and idle issues I had with my '79 Firebird and I feel like I've learned so much and saved so much money. THANK YOU!
@tommybee33 glad you found it helpful
Love your work man.. Soon I'm gonna have to over haul my 210 just ordered the gasket kit off quadjet. Your instructions is striaght foward.
Awesome dualjet carburetor rebuild video!
Thank you for the video. I rebuilt my carb by watching you. Carquest wanted 406.00 for a new carb. I saved alot.
Glad it helped you.
Thanks for the video tutorial! Helped me immensely with my 79' impala carb rebuild.
Man made it look so easy
I love the comprehensive breakdown you filmed. Getting ready to rebuilt my M2ME for my '81 Camaro. Out of curiosity, is there a rebuilt kit you recommend for my application? RockAuto has a few options I'm eyeballing. Thanks for the video!
I like the Hygrade kits and they usually come with a spec sheet but this one did not for some reason. Thanks for watching
exelente amigo gracias por tu aporte 🇻🇪🙏🇻🇪
Hello friend, what yilet number does this carburetor have? Thank you
You say that your jet is number 24, is that the original number? From your carb?
@germancalistri6624 that would be original number.
I did a quick google search but I’m wondering how hard it would be to get the measurement tools you used for setting the float and choke angle for high and low idle?
I think I’ve studied this periodically over the last year. Thank you for providing this video! I’ve never rebuilt a carb before and I’m Mentally preparing my self to rebuild my 1979 duel jet.
www.ebay.ca/itm/235216254090?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ibwwcfnts5a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That's angle gage. As far as the float level is concerned a Verner scale will work.
Need some help on knowing what lines I can cap off and do away with on this carburetor? Thanks and great video
All the external circuits or vacuum lines have their purposes. If everything is functional as it should be the only line I'd cap is the EGR vacuum line. If you're in a warm climate then you could disable or delete the hot air intake in the air filter housing. If your Cruise control is not working you could delete that line so long as it does not affect the heater controls.
Awesome Tutorial’. Im having a tough time with a 1982 3.8L Regal Off idle Bog on Dynoed Rebuilt Carb . Im about ready to just disconnect Wire to CeL light and just go to this Carb. I’m ready to fly you out here to Wny to get this thing right !
You mentioned CEL so I take it this is a feedback carb. There are dozens of possibilities to cause a bog or hesitation. Is the base ignition timing correct. Is the system in fuel control? Codes? What happens if you unplug the mixture solenoid? Is the TPS voltage sweeping normal?
@@PhillipBailey Feedback yes’ base timing correct,Tps new’ and I haven’t had the car in my hands to try unplugging M/C to see results. What was odd was last year before putting this car in Storage was it had no Cel light but had off idle bog with new Accelerator Pump. Beginning of this Season i had the Dreaded Dead battery Si Alternator ( deMagnetize) and after sorting that it would run Fine with Distributor unplugged but obviously = Cel light . This Regal has been a nightmare . Its completely Restored but can’t give this car back to owner (Bills/Sabres) in this condition 🤦🏻. I appreciate your help as these Early Feedbacks are a notorious nightmare!
@mrmoparrr those systems were pretty primitive. I'd start by acquiring an OBD1 scan tool that can connect to the ALDL under the dash to scan it for codes, there is a data list available and I'd want to see proper MAP, TPS, Barometric and coolant temp readings. Unplugging the MC solenoid will cause the fuel delivery to go rich. With it plugged in you should hear the MC solenoid clicking rapidly KOEO. There is a green wire near the carb that is the MC solenoid test terminal. You can use an old school dwell meter set on 6 cylinder dwell mode to test the dwell at the MC test wire. In closed loop it should be switching between 10 and 50 degrees. In open loop fixed at 30 degrees. Be sure the distributor is plugged in and that the timing advances as the rpm increases. When the ECM dies on these cars there is usually no cel and MC solenoid operation. Test battery power, ignition and ground to the ECM. Good luck
@@PhillipBailey Now I Know what the Green Plug is for ! Appreciate the info Bigtime. I now have something to Troubleshoot with’
@mrmoparrr how did you fare with your feedback carburetor issues.
Thank you
good morning friend, when you adjust the float, what size did you give it? Could you tell me the measurements he gave you but in millimeters. since I don't understand those units. Sorry my bad english
3/8 of an inch is equivalent to 9.5mm.
Where did you get the rebuild kit?
@@natertater2124 local parts store
Nice video to watch! Thanks! I'm having a bit of troubles with a rochester dualjet 210 on my 79 pontiac Grandprix, do you might have any tips for me? It is bogging/hesitating when putting the gaspedal full throttle, when i give it a little bit of gas and build up the rpms slowly, then it has no problem wide out throttle.
Greetings!
Could be the power valve is stuck. You can test it though the vent tube in the front center of the carb. With the engine off and using a small screwdriver it should be up and you can push it down about 1/4" to feel the spring and movement.
I am currently having the same issue after my rebuild. I'll have to check out the power valve. Thanks again!
@@joeyelson8256 did you remove the power valve stop screw? If so and you reinstalled it too low that could be your problem.
@@PhillipBailey i did remove it and I was not sure where it was set or how to re set it properly. I went off photos i took while disassembly. So I will look into that, thank you again!
@@joeyelson8256 there is an aluminum plug in the top section of the carb float bowl. If you remove that plug you can then use a tool to adjust that stop screw up. Remove the plug by drilling into the center of it with a 1/8" drill bit. Screw in a self tapping screw and pry the plug out with a forked tool. There was an actual tool for turning the screw as its oval if I remember correctly. I remember making one with a piece of 3/16" steel line squeezed oval in a vise. Turn the stop screw up or counter clockwise to lift the power valve and richen fuel delivery. Start about 2 turns from the bottom. There were no specs for this screw as it was initially adjusted with the carb on a flow testing device and each carb was a bit different. Keep raising the screw and road testing til the bog is eliminated. Once set lightly tap the plug back in place. It's about 1/4" thick by the way.
oh good Haven't worked on one of those in years.
wow it is been a good will since i did rochester 2 barel .if i remenber well that idle selenoid is for when the ac is aply..i could be wrong about that .. good video thank
Some were used as an anti-dieseling control. Was energized with the ignition on and deenrgized key off allowing the throttle blade to close preventing runon. Some of the later v6 and 4 cylinders used them as you mentioned to bump up the idle when the AC compressor kicked on.
I'm having trouble finding rebuil kit for my rochester dualjet 210 #7045090. Any advice?
What year make and model?
question, the needle's going true the jets.. but I want to know, when the vacc activate and suck the needles true jets and restrict the gas flow..
the needle block totally the gas flow or how much the needle is open to pass gas true?
Yes vacuum pulls the needles down into the jets restricting them but not closing them completely. Under a heavy load the vacuum will drop and the spring will lift the tapered needles out of the jets allowing more fuel and therfore more power. That piston is called a power piston.
Where did u get the rebuild kit at
You should be able to order from your local parts supplier based on the carb number. Otherwise try ebay or rock auto
que motor tiene el pontiac?
Phil.... What years and brand dealerships did you work for?
I started my career at a GM dealership and worked there for 20 years. now 27 at the local College and for myself
Se puede reemplazar ese carburador por uno completamente mecanico??
I rebuild a 17082132 dualjet using this as a general guide, installed it and it's running super rich. I asked a mechanic who's had experience with these. He mentioned they can weep fuel through the fuel bowl straight past the butterfly valves, is this something anyone else has heard I can't seem to find any documentation on this issue he said it was fairly common.
Yes he's right. There are two crimped into place plugs that are in the bottom of the float bowl that could leak but it could also be due to the float level being too high or the float actually sinking. Did you replace the float? Could also be leaking needle and seat. Can you see fuel dripping from the main jets at idle. If so the float has sunk, float level is too high, needle and seat are leaking or the power piston is too high or not being pulled down by engine vacuum. If its leaking from those plugs you can see that with the carb off and fuel bowl full of gasoline.
@@PhillipBailey I wasn't able to see fuel from the top, I replaced everything excluding the fuel solenoid. The car was running ok just wanted to do a once over. How would you recommend fixing the plugs if it is the issue?
@imwatchingnotreally7433 wait you said fuel solenoid...is this a feedback carb? Does it have a mixture control solenoid and throttle position sensor?
@@PhillipBailey yup, I'm actually a gm parts counter employee, I was able to get the full break down pictures of it. It's a 1983 229v6 in a Elco. Still hooked up to the emissions loop & "active loop"
@imwatchingnotreally7433 does the mixture control solenoid click repeatedly with the ignition on about 2 times per second? If not the solenoid is not moving the needle valves up and down in the jets. They are spring loaded to full rich. Does the check engine light come on with the key? One of thr wires the the mixture solenoid should be live with the key on. The other wire is duty cycled by switching the ground on and off by the computer. Check fuses. You could also connect a conventional test light to the MC solenoid and with the ignition on the light should be flickering.
Buenas tardes amigo yo estaba desarmando mi carburador y saque ese tornillo q uste menciona q no se debe tocar alguien me podría guiar para colocarlo como estaba el carro me tarda mucho para prender
If it is screwed all the way in it will be super lean. There is an aluminum plug in the top part of the cover that you can pull out by drilling into it and threading a sheet metal screw into it and prying it up and out. There is a special wrench for adjusting it up or down but you can use a piece of 3/216" tube squeezed oval. Start about two turns from fully down and adjust it 1/2 turn up at a time until there's no bog or hesitation on mild acceleration. Hth
We're can I get a diagram for a Chevy Malibu wagon classic 4.4
What year and diagram of what?
1980@@PhillipBailey
@stevenmunoz5360 most of tge information sites like Alldatadiy.com and Identifix don't go back that far. What circuit are you trying to troubleshoot? Possibly Haynes manual could help.
Yeah. It was good stuff that old carb cleaner. But did stink if you got it on your hands. Would each you rubber gloves.
Yes it would eat your hands pretty fast.
No entiendo ingles y la municion nunca la sacastes
Man great video. I HATE THIS CARB. for some reason I absolutely cannot get the carb to snap back like that one does. And omg don’t get me started on trying the get the pump and needles to agree with the gasket.
Do you mean the throttle won't snap back closed?
@@PhillipBailey yes. It is just ever so slightly open
@teabags3632 is the fast idle setting keeping the throttle from closing. There's an adjustment screw under the choke housing that comes into affect when the choke is on.
@@PhillipBailey when I took it apart I made sure to not mess with the choke settings.
@@PhillipBailey figured it out and not sure how this happened but the butterfly was slightly miss aligned like just one of the circles. It was hitting the body of the carb not allowing it to shut. I’ve got it back on there now and it fires right up but now I have to deal with getting it tuned in
Me gustaría oírlo en español, mí Malibú tiene un carburador de este modelo
De lo tres tornillos donde esyan los yilet el tercero el mio siempre a tenido esa municion
Está bueno el video pero no todos sabemos hablar inglés así que xfa traduscanlo en español gracias
81 in US feedback.
yes I guess I should have noted that this was Canadian emissions. You guys had feedback carburetors from 1977 til fuel injection. In Canada we only saw them on some higher end cars like Buick Park Avenues and some Cadillacs.
No speaker inglis please i'm spani
Haga su pregunta en español y la traduciré y la reproduciré si puedo.