The slider size discrepancy is still an unknown variable. The OEM variator uses 20x15mm rollers or sliders. The Dr.Pulley performance variator kit was originally shipped to me with 20x15 sliders, but Dr.P specs 21x15mm sliders for that unit. I tried both 20 and 21mm sliders with varying degrees of success. Unfortunately, the variator killed itself multiple times on my recent Scooter Cannonball Run, so I don't recommend these units for prolonged high-speed highway abuse: - First failure: th-cam.com/video/SCbcQmjkNCE/w-d-xo.html - Second failure: th-cam.com/video/BhHkgSNa-PU/w-d-xo.html - Third failure: th-cam.com/video/BhHkgSNa-PU/w-d-xo.html In retrospect, the OEM torque drive assembly (clutch & pulleys) was likely malfunctioning for a long time and caused added stress on the variator. That might have caused some of my early problems with the sliders flipping out of position (torque drive not contracting quickly enough on deceleration to maintain belt tension at the variator). However, at least one other PCX160 rider on the Cannonball had an identical failure of their Dr.Pulley variator: the center bushing wallowed-out with too much wobble/slack and destroyed multiple CVT belts. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thankyouu for getting back, i just watched the video.i almost made a purchased for a kit, u just save me from the hassle.. i think it best to just replace the dr pulley slider and leave everthing stock..
I saw on a Phillipino blog, that if you put a mousepad, or a portion of one, on the baseplate of the top box, it solves your rattling problem. Maybe you may need two, depending on the free play amount. I hope that helps you.
I just bought one of these bikes. After riding it, the stock wind screen is pretty small, but the design that produces less drag. The upgrade is necessary if you're riding in winds or through places with flying insects without a full face helmet on. The largest would produce too much drag in my opinion, so for me personally, I'm going for the middle sized. Just tall enough to feel more protected, but also short enough to not effect fuel mileage as much. I'm also going with the shin wind screens to fill the gap under the handlebars.
A little tip I got from another scooter buddy of mine was to grab a CVT holding tool to help remove any of those spinning parts like the flywheel. It's more of a luxury since you're obvious able to get the job done, but its a nice help for $35.
Like your videos on TH-cam tank you for making videos everything motorcycle scooter related I have learned to work on my moped and motorcycle I'm watching your video have a good day and thank you for making videos
Glad to see you're back at it after the Katy carnage! My Givi makes the same rattles if I leave it on while empty. Are you using the dampener with that wireless Quad Lock mount? Wasn't sure if it can use one.
Howdy! Yes, I installed the Quad Lock vibration dampener on these wireless charging bases. The phone appears to bounce around MUCH more than without the dampener, but that's by design. The extra wiggle allows the mount to dissipate the high-G shock loads instead of transferring those impulses directly into the phone, which can damage sensitive cameras (particularly with iPhones). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Does the phone bounce more with the wireless charger added than with just the dampener? I've considered added the wireless charger as well but I'm fine with using the wire if it saves the phone from bouncing more since I use it for GPS.
@@LinkFelton Howdy, Link! The wireless charging head adds some weight to the total mounting solution, but the vibration dampener handles it just fine. I've ridden across the country half a dozen times on the Super Cub and the Rebel with the QL charging head and vibration dampener with nearly pefect success. The phone and the mounts have performed perfectly, but I've had two of the charging heads die for unknown reasons on the Rebel. I think the charging cable on my Rebel was faulty, so it was slowly killing the wireless charger. I had both replaced under warranty, so it was just a minor inconvenience. The wireless charger is mandatory, in my opinion, becuase you can't charge the phone by USB in the rain... the software prevents it due to short-circuit issues. The wireless charging works wet or dry because it's inductive. Cheers! 😉👍
@@QuasiMotard Interesting. Thanks for the input and guidance Quasi. I'll definitely consider it. Though I do try and plan for potential rain to avoid it, there is always times where you're caught anyway. Next time I order from Quadlock, I may get it!
I have a 2011 PCX 125 top speed of 59mph with 4k miles on it. It's supposed to do 62mph. What size of Dr. Pully do you recommend for higher speed, better gas mileage and a bit better accleration?
Nice information. I was wondering if this roller change improved your top speed. BTW, If you put a piece of foam between your trunk plate and the trunk it will stop that rattling from your latch.
Howdy, Jeff! I have tried several screens on my PCX's, including 3 different options from Givi and two from National Cycle. Currently, my 2015 PCX 150 is fitted with the National Cycle VStream Sport Touring (medium height): www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/national-cycle-vstream-sport-touring-windscreen-honda-pcx150-2014-2018?sku_id=1161414 . That screen works very well for me at 5' 6" (plus helmet height), and it doesn't create too much helmet turbulence (rocking side to side or bobbling of my helmet). The VStream has curled airfoils on the lower sides of the screen that significantly reduce turbulence behind the screen and also act as deflectors that push a lot of junk past the handgrips. However, there is a fair amount of audible wind noise due to the dirty air spilling over the top of the screen and hitting my helmet's chin and visor area. I might add a small spoiler (laminar lip) at the top of the screen to reduce the noise. I considered installing the taller National Cycle VStream touring screen on my PCX, but several of my channel viewers have warned me against it due to excessive turbulence. You're 6+ inches taller than I am, so either the medium or tall NC screens would probably work for you. My preference would be an adjustable screen from MadStad Engineering or a Givi AirFlow, but neither of those companies offer fitments for this scoot. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Sliders are generally lighter than rollers because their profile allows a different rate of ramp activation. In most scooter CVT applications, sliders will be 20-30% lighter than the OEM roller weights to give similar acceleration curves. The sliders' lighter weight lets the engine rev up quicker before reaching full extension (better acceleration). The sliders' angled face with the taller back edge pushes the ramp plate further out to produce a higher drive ratio (higher wheel speed per engine RPM at full extension). The trick in tuning the CVT is finding the correct "contra" spring tension in the rear pulley system to balance out the sliders' action on the front movable pulley. Too little spring tension will allow the weights to spin outward too quickly and bog the engine, and it can also result in belt "slap" under deceleration or rapid throttle/load changes. Too much spring tension causes the variator to stay in a low ratio too long or doesn't permit the front pulley assembly to reach full extension, which robs top speed and fuel economy. 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for watching! The factory variator "rollers" are indeed round/cylindrical in shape. The aftermarket rollers and sliders can have different profiles for performance reasons. The Dr.Pulley slider weights are trapezoidal in shape with a flat face on one side that pushes against the ramp face; this allows a higher ramp profile to pinch the belt higher between the pulleys. The sliders are typically lighter than the factory rollers, so acceleration is better at lower RPM's, but the higher ramp profile at full extension also aids in higher top speeds and somewhat improved fuel economy. Fitting the sliders isn't specific in any order, but their orientation is very important. Here is the manufacturer's page with a diagram to explain the operation: drpulley.co/setting-direction-of-weight-rollers/ . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Can I ask what kinda business/service you provide outside of this channel that allows you to take long trips? I work in the IT field and am wanting to free up some time/make money elsewhere if possible. I think you said you run your own business, right? Also, I'm Texas based. Lets go! Love the videos.
Howdy, and thanks for watching! I'm an independent network consultant, and I specialize in small to medium business clients. I have a few larger clients in the 800-1100 seat range. Finding time to take off for extended trips can because Murphy's Law rules my universe. I typically work really hard for several weeks so I can take a few weeks off for my longer adventures. Shorter 3-4 day trips are much easier because that's just an extended weekend. I will be taking some Moto camping trips in the near future, before the big trip in June for the Scooter Cannonball, so let me know if you're interested in meeting up somewhere in central or northern Texas to join in the fun. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Awesome! Interesting to see how everyone gets it done! I'm pretty standardized 8-5 nowadays and don't have a scoot or a moto just yet. If you ever roll through Belton TX give me a wave as you cruise on through. If I get a bike I'll meet up with you one day. Thanks!
Howdy, Mike! Yes, you can use the Dr.Pulley sliders or other aftermarket roller weights in the factory variator without any problems. The sliders that fit into the factory variator are 20x15mm, and the ideal slider weight seems to be 12-14g, depending on your riding habits. Lighter sliders offer better acceleration and might have slightly lower top speed. Heavier sliders give slightly slower acceleration (similar to stock), but overall fuel economy and top speed is increased. I originally installed 12g Dr. Pulley sliders in the factory variator on this PCX, and that bumped my top speed up ~5 MPH from 62-63 (hitting the rev-limiter) to 67-68 MPH. The upgraded Dr.Pulley performance variator along with the Dr.P sliders bumped the top speed up another 4-6 MPH to a drag-limited 72-74 MPH. I never feel the bike hitting the rev-limiter now, so it's just wind resistance acting as the upper limit. I've seen 78-79 MPH on GPS a few times going downhill or with strong tailwinds behind me. The secondary benefit of the Dr.P sliders and/or variator upgrade is increased fuel economy. The sliders give a higher effective drive ratio by pushing the belt higher up in the front pulley. That translates to higher wheel speed at any given engine RPM, or conversely, lower engine RPM at a given wheel speed. If I'm just cruising around at moderate speeds on rural highways or back roads in the 50-60 MPH range, then my PCX's fuel economy hovers around 120-130 MPG! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard This is perfect information I have been looking for! When you hit 78-79 mph with the Dr. P. 12g sliders and variator combo, were you hitting rev limit? I ride my PCX 150 and Forza 300 to work on nicer days and definitely to travel. My goal is to get a large diameter variator and run the lightest weight sliders I can without bouncing off of the limiter. 21x15 lightest is 11g. 20x15 has 9g. I built a chinese clone GY6 150 that stays at 8k rpm's from a stop all the way to 72mph flat land stale wind. Would go faster with tail wind or drafting. 18x14 8g sliders, 2:1 final drive, 26mm intake, 28mm carb. The combination of parts absolutely affect each other! I went with the really light weights to get the rpm's up for great acceleration and changed the final drive from 40/13 to the 36/18 to get back the variable range for the cvt. I will be going to 7g once they are in stock to increase the acceleration more and hoping to get a higher top speed as I should be able to have more power to turn the really hard 36/18 gears. I want to follow a similar route with the PCX. I run basically full throttle for 30 miles. I want the rpm's to be high enough to carry the speed without hitting the limiter. I too am currently stuck at appx 63mph hitting the limiter. I don't feel right riding the limiter for 30 miles so I only ran the PCX to work for 1 day. Forza for the last week since I bought both of them. I would absolutely love to have lightweight sliders with a large diameter variator and smaller final ratio. Any information on other variators if the 20/15 weights flip? Do you think 9g sliders would even get a chance to flip since they are lighter? Is there even a gear kit available for the PCX?
Howdy, Mike! I don't recommend chasing performance gains on these scooters with expensive aftermarket exhausts and other engine hop-ups. These engines are already highly-tuned for a specific performance envelope (best power at a given consumption and emission level), so it's an expensive game of diminishing returns. You can spend lots of $$$ for very little gains in performance. If you have a damaged exhaust that needs to be replaced, or you just want to shed some weight, then an aftermarket exhaust isn't a bad option. Better looks and sound are nice bonuses if you aren't paying for just those alone. With all of that out of the way... the Akrapovič Racing Line S-H125R4-HRSS is a great option for ~$600 ( www.akrapovic.com/en/moto/product/16294/Honda/PCX125-PC150/2016?brandId=30&modelId=732&yearId=4064 ). You can see that exhaust on my gray 2016 PCX150 in many videos ( th-cam.com/video/Ibgv-rGcmHY/w-d-xo.html ). I sold that scoot to Adrian last year with the exhaust still on it. There are lots of other manufacturers out there, but I don't have any hands-on experience with those exhausts. You might want to check the huge selection at Webike Japan: japan.webike.net/HONDA/PCX150/Exhausts/6334/1001/mc/ . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I have used Malossi variators in the past, and they are good units. I had one in my Honda SilverWing 600 scooter for a short time before I upgraded it to the full Dr.Pulley performance variator and HiT clutch. I've heard that the quality control of the Malossi units seems to be hit or miss. Some owners have experienced failures of the variator housing or rollers. I didn't have any problems with the unit that I had, but it was swapped out quickly... under 1500 miles on it before the Dr.Pulley system. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Howdy, John! I'm working with KipMoto to build a hitch for the SherpaX trailer to fit the PCX150. I'm hoping that we'll have time to finish that project before my next Scooter Cannonball Run in mid-June. I'm sure that the PCX will be capable of towing moderate loads... it would be no different than hauling a passenger. If my little Super Cub can pull the trailer for 10K+ miles, and Neil's little Zuma 125 can survive 50K miles pulling his trailers, then the PCX is a no-brainer! 😂 I think the easiest point to attach the hitch/hoop is at the PCX's lower rear shock mounts. I need to send him detailed measurements and pictures so he can work his magic for the quick-detach system (T-bolts that screw into captive plates on the rear axle or shocks). I plan to take additional measurements and pictures of the newer PCX160 and the ADV150 scooters to see if it can be a multi-purpose mount that fits all of Honda's 150/160 scooters. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I'm planning to leave the Houston area no later than June 12 so I can arrive in San Clemente, California, on or before June 16. The SCBR starts on June 18, so I need to be there a couple of days early for the rider orientation, pre-ride bike inspection, etc. The total trip distance should be around 5300 miles. I am considering riding up to the Barber Small Bore Festival, which happens June 9-11, so that might alter my departure plans. If I do that, then I'll need to leave Houston on June 6. I would arrive in Birmingham, Alabama, on June 7-8 and camp for the event on June 9-10. I would need to leave Birmingham on June 11 and ride straight to California. That option will add ~1400 miles to my total trip distance, totalling nearly 6700 miles. 😉👍 --QM
Yes, we'll be spending an entire day riding through Oklahoma. Day 4 ends in Guymon, OK, and we'll ride through the length of the state ending in Miami, OK, at the end of Day 5: scootercannonball.com/route . 😉👍 --QM
Yes, that's the general rule. Lighter sliders allow the engine to rev up higher and maintain a "lower" front pulley ratio longer for better acceleration. The centrifugal force acting on the rollers/sliders and squeezing the front ramp plates together is countered by the "contra" spring tension in the rear driven pulley assembly. Stiffer contra springs maintain more pressure against the belt and resist the action of the front pulley trying to squeeze the belt up and forward. It's a delicate balancing act to get the desired performance. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Bonjour, Yves! Les masselottes et le variateur d'origine Honda ne permettent au PCX d'atteindre que 63 mph (101 km/h). Le variateur Dr.Pulley amélioré et les poids du curseur augmentent la vitesse de pointe à 72-73 mph (116-117 km/h). L'économie de carburant augmente également d'environ 15 % en raison de la baisse du régime moteur à des vitesses de croisière normales. Notre trafic est très rapide ici aux États-Unis, donc 15 km/h supplémentaires font une différence significative. Mes longs trajets routiers bénéficient de l'économie de carburant plus élevée et étendent mon autonomie entre les ravitaillements à 200-220 miles (322-354 km). Acclamations! 😉👍 --QM
i'm not having any luck on finding stuff for my trail that i want. so thinking of selling it and getting me a pcx or burgman. plus i hit a pit bull on my trail last week. oh and i am starting to notice a chatter on my wing when its cold but not after i run it a couple minutes. but i might sell it also. my trail is to slow to ride on long rides and everyone has to wait on me. and my wing is fast enough to hang with 90% of other bikes. but noone ever wants to ride anymore so i might sell it also so if you know anyone looking for a trail or a wing both of mine might be forsale. the trail i will most likely take payoff. the wing 5k is what i want for it.
They are not called sliders, they are called rollers, of which you have six. The sliders, of which there are three, fit on the cover plate and help it slide out to cause variation of contact diameter of the belt. Good video. I have a Honda sh125i which i think has the same running gear as your scooter. 2021, about to hit 40,000 miles, I do part time deliveroo etc. The honda belt is good for 16,000 miles. Why did you swap out the original variator? In the UK we only have the 125 version, mines still on oem.
Good points. However, Dr.Pulley calls their variator weights "sliders" because they aren't round and don't rotate like traditional variator roller weights. The Dr.Pulley weights have two flat sides (almost trapezoidal in shape), so the weight slides outward and upward on the ramps in the movable face. They give a higher lift profile against the stationary face, which provides more lift to raise the belt higher on the pulley. 😉👍
@@QuasiMotard I looked at these on the only site I found them on in Europe, SIP scooter shop, they have these for Vespas, but they still call them variator rollers. Instead of sliders, they should call them weights. I haven't seen these in the UK for sale for my scooter. I think the Forza, pcx and SHi 2020 plus, all take the same variator etc.
Hi, thanks for sharing your variator slider experience. It was a bit hard to see how you placed the sliders in the variator but after I watched the following video from Dr Pulley and thought Id ask if that's how you orientated them. Also when you re-assembled the variator, it would have been great to know if there was still a rattle in the variator when you shook the assembly in your hand? th-cam.com/video/yxcQGmT8EJc/w-d-xo.html
im wondering if this issue persist on stock pulley or just for dr pulley kit , because on dr pulley web the slider listed 20x15 for pcx150.
The slider size discrepancy is still an unknown variable. The OEM variator uses 20x15mm rollers or sliders. The Dr.Pulley performance variator kit was originally shipped to me with 20x15 sliders, but Dr.P specs 21x15mm sliders for that unit. I tried both 20 and 21mm sliders with varying degrees of success. Unfortunately, the variator killed itself multiple times on my recent Scooter Cannonball Run, so I don't recommend these units for prolonged high-speed highway abuse:
- First failure: th-cam.com/video/SCbcQmjkNCE/w-d-xo.html
- Second failure: th-cam.com/video/BhHkgSNa-PU/w-d-xo.html
- Third failure: th-cam.com/video/BhHkgSNa-PU/w-d-xo.html
In retrospect, the OEM torque drive assembly (clutch & pulleys) was likely malfunctioning for a long time and caused added stress on the variator. That might have caused some of my early problems with the sliders flipping out of position (torque drive not contracting quickly enough on deceleration to maintain belt tension at the variator). However, at least one other PCX160 rider on the Cannonball had an identical failure of their Dr.Pulley variator: the center bushing wallowed-out with too much wobble/slack and destroyed multiple CVT belts. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thankyouu for getting back, i just watched the video.i almost made a purchased for a kit, u just save me from the hassle.. i think it best to just replace the dr pulley slider and leave everthing stock..
I saw on a Phillipino blog, that if you put a mousepad, or a portion of one, on the baseplate of the top box, it solves your rattling problem. Maybe you may need two, depending on the free play amount. I hope that helps you.
Change the sliders to a combination of 12 oz and 13 oz,-------- 12,13--12,13--12, 13. I think you'll like it
That's what I would want, a very large windscreen. 👏
I just bought one of these bikes. After riding it, the stock wind screen is pretty small, but the design that produces less drag.
The upgrade is necessary if you're riding in winds or through places with flying insects without a full face helmet on.
The largest would produce too much drag in my opinion, so for me personally, I'm going for the middle sized.
Just tall enough to feel more protected, but also short enough to not effect fuel mileage as much. I'm also going with the shin wind screens to fill the gap under the handlebars.
Hey there Quasi, thanks for the video on the PCX! Hope that you're feeling better and getting everything lined up for the SCB. Be safe out there!
A little tip I got from another scooter buddy of mine was to grab a CVT holding tool to help remove any of those spinning parts like the flywheel. It's more of a luxury since you're obvious able to get the job done, but its a nice help for $35.
Glad to see you're back up and running too! Meaning, after your car accident.
Like your videos on TH-cam tank you for making videos everything motorcycle scooter related I have learned to work on my moped and motorcycle I'm watching your video have a good day and thank you for making videos
Thanks again for awesome videos! Mr Aaron 🍻
Glad to see you're back at it after the Katy carnage! My Givi makes the same rattles if I leave it on while empty. Are you using the dampener with that wireless Quad Lock mount? Wasn't sure if it can use one.
Howdy! Yes, I installed the Quad Lock vibration dampener on these wireless charging bases. The phone appears to bounce around MUCH more than without the dampener, but that's by design. The extra wiggle allows the mount to dissipate the high-G shock loads instead of transferring those impulses directly into the phone, which can damage sensitive cameras (particularly with iPhones). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Does the phone bounce more with the wireless charger added than with just the dampener? I've considered added the wireless charger as well but I'm fine with using the wire if it saves the phone from bouncing more since I use it for GPS.
@@LinkFelton Howdy, Link! The wireless charging head adds some weight to the total mounting solution, but the vibration dampener handles it just fine. I've ridden across the country half a dozen times on the Super Cub and the Rebel with the QL charging head and vibration dampener with nearly pefect success. The phone and the mounts have performed perfectly, but I've had two of the charging heads die for unknown reasons on the Rebel. I think the charging cable on my Rebel was faulty, so it was slowly killing the wireless charger. I had both replaced under warranty, so it was just a minor inconvenience.
The wireless charger is mandatory, in my opinion, becuase you can't charge the phone by USB in the rain... the software prevents it due to short-circuit issues. The wireless charging works wet or dry because it's inductive. Cheers! 😉👍
@@QuasiMotard Interesting. Thanks for the input and guidance Quasi. I'll definitely consider it. Though I do try and plan for potential rain to avoid it, there is always times where you're caught anyway. Next time I order from Quadlock, I may get it!
@12:15
One drop of epoxy or a bead of hot melt glue and a zip tie shim will fix those rattles.
Watching you bend that license plate triggered MY O.C.D.!!!
Me:😳😫
I have a 2011 PCX 125 top speed of 59mph with 4k miles on it. It's supposed to do 62mph. What size of Dr. Pully do you recommend for higher speed, better gas mileage and a bit better accleration?
In Indonesia pcx 150 top speed 100 km 🤣
My pcx 125 belt rollers and sliders are done after 6000km
Great video! Thanks for posting.👍
Nice information. I was wondering if this roller change improved your top speed. BTW, If you put a piece of foam between your trunk plate and the trunk it will stop that rattling from your latch.
Quasi....You are very trusting of no rocks on those sharp turns. HAHA
That cat can ride, don’t let small displacements fool ya!👊👍
The slippery little monkey comment on those new sliders made me chuckle…
Good luck on the cannonball run. In need of a tall shield, just have oem, what is yours or what would u recommend i am little over 6 foot tall Thanks.
Howdy, Jeff! I have tried several screens on my PCX's, including 3 different options from Givi and two from National Cycle. Currently, my 2015 PCX 150 is fitted with the National Cycle VStream Sport Touring (medium height): www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/national-cycle-vstream-sport-touring-windscreen-honda-pcx150-2014-2018?sku_id=1161414 .
That screen works very well for me at 5' 6" (plus helmet height), and it doesn't create too much helmet turbulence (rocking side to side or bobbling of my helmet). The VStream has curled airfoils on the lower sides of the screen that significantly reduce turbulence behind the screen and also act as deflectors that push a lot of junk past the handgrips. However, there is a fair amount of audible wind noise due to the dirty air spilling over the top of the screen and hitting my helmet's chin and visor area. I might add a small spoiler (laminar lip) at the top of the screen to reduce the noise.
I considered installing the taller National Cycle VStream touring screen on my PCX, but several of my channel viewers have warned me against it due to excessive turbulence. You're 6+ inches taller than I am, so either the medium or tall NC screens would probably work for you. My preference would be an adjustable screen from MadStad Engineering or a Givi AirFlow, but neither of those companies offer fitments for this scoot. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What confuses me on my 2022 Pcx I think it uses 18- 19 gram rollers. Wonder why?
Sliders are generally lighter than rollers because their profile allows a different rate of ramp activation. In most scooter CVT applications, sliders will be 20-30% lighter than the OEM roller weights to give similar acceleration curves.
The sliders' lighter weight lets the engine rev up quicker before reaching full extension (better acceleration). The sliders' angled face with the taller back edge pushes the ramp plate further out to produce a higher drive ratio (higher wheel speed per engine RPM at full extension).
The trick in tuning the CVT is finding the correct "contra" spring tension in the rear pulley system to balance out the sliders' action on the front movable pulley. Too little spring tension will allow the weights to spin outward too quickly and bog the engine, and it can also result in belt "slap" under deceleration or rapid throttle/load changes. Too much spring tension causes the variator to stay in a low ratio too long or doesn't permit the front pulley assembly to reach full extension, which robs top speed and fuel economy. 😉👍 --QM
Yep. 19 grams. I tried a few different combinations of sliders on my '21 and felt that the original weight of 19 grams gave the best results.
Very Well Explained 🎉
Why do the Variator rollers differ ?
I thought they were all round Shaped.
Is there a sequence they ate fitted by ?
Thanks for watching! The factory variator "rollers" are indeed round/cylindrical in shape. The aftermarket rollers and sliders can have different profiles for performance reasons.
The Dr.Pulley slider weights are trapezoidal in shape with a flat face on one side that pushes against the ramp face; this allows a higher ramp profile to pinch the belt higher between the pulleys. The sliders are typically lighter than the factory rollers, so acceleration is better at lower RPM's, but the higher ramp profile at full extension also aids in higher top speeds and somewhat improved fuel economy.
Fitting the sliders isn't specific in any order, but their orientation is very important. Here is the manufacturer's page with a diagram to explain the operation: drpulley.co/setting-direction-of-weight-rollers/ . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Can I ask what kinda business/service you provide outside of this channel that allows you to take long trips? I work in the IT field and am wanting to free up some time/make money elsewhere if possible. I think you said you run your own business, right? Also, I'm Texas based. Lets go! Love the videos.
Howdy, and thanks for watching! I'm an independent network consultant, and I specialize in small to medium business clients. I have a few larger clients in the 800-1100 seat range. Finding time to take off for extended trips can because Murphy's Law rules my universe. I typically work really hard for several weeks so I can take a few weeks off for my longer adventures. Shorter 3-4 day trips are much easier because that's just an extended weekend.
I will be taking some Moto camping trips in the near future, before the big trip in June for the Scooter Cannonball, so let me know if you're interested in meeting up somewhere in central or northern Texas to join in the fun. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Awesome! Interesting to see how everyone gets it done! I'm pretty standardized 8-5 nowadays and don't have a scoot or a moto just yet.
If you ever roll through Belton TX give me a wave as you cruise on through. If I get a bike I'll meet up with you one day.
Thanks!
Can I use my factory variator and clutch with bigger sliders to get more speed on my 2016 pcx150
Howdy, Mike! Yes, you can use the Dr.Pulley sliders or other aftermarket roller weights in the factory variator without any problems. The sliders that fit into the factory variator are 20x15mm, and the ideal slider weight seems to be 12-14g, depending on your riding habits. Lighter sliders offer better acceleration and might have slightly lower top speed. Heavier sliders give slightly slower acceleration (similar to stock), but overall fuel economy and top speed is increased.
I originally installed 12g Dr. Pulley sliders in the factory variator on this PCX, and that bumped my top speed up ~5 MPH from 62-63 (hitting the rev-limiter) to 67-68 MPH. The upgraded Dr.Pulley performance variator along with the Dr.P sliders bumped the top speed up another 4-6 MPH to a drag-limited 72-74 MPH. I never feel the bike hitting the rev-limiter now, so it's just wind resistance acting as the upper limit. I've seen 78-79 MPH on GPS a few times going downhill or with strong tailwinds behind me.
The secondary benefit of the Dr.P sliders and/or variator upgrade is increased fuel economy. The sliders give a higher effective drive ratio by pushing the belt higher up in the front pulley. That translates to higher wheel speed at any given engine RPM, or conversely, lower engine RPM at a given wheel speed. If I'm just cruising around at moderate speeds on rural highways or back roads in the 50-60 MPH range, then my PCX's fuel economy hovers around 120-130 MPG! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard This is perfect information I have been looking for!
When you hit 78-79 mph with the Dr. P. 12g sliders and variator combo, were you hitting rev limit? I ride my PCX 150 and Forza 300 to work on nicer days and definitely to travel. My goal is to get a large diameter variator and run the lightest weight sliders I can without bouncing off of the limiter. 21x15 lightest is 11g. 20x15 has 9g.
I built a chinese clone GY6 150 that stays at 8k rpm's from a stop all the way to 72mph flat land stale wind. Would go faster with tail wind or drafting. 18x14 8g sliders, 2:1 final drive, 26mm intake, 28mm carb. The combination of parts absolutely affect each other! I went with the really light weights to get the rpm's up for great acceleration and changed the final drive from 40/13 to the 36/18 to get back the variable range for the cvt. I will be going to 7g once they are in stock to increase the acceleration more and hoping to get a higher top speed as I should be able to have more power to turn the really hard 36/18 gears.
I want to follow a similar route with the PCX. I run basically full throttle for 30 miles. I want the rpm's to be high enough to carry the speed without hitting the limiter. I too am currently stuck at appx 63mph hitting the limiter. I don't feel right riding the limiter for 30 miles so I only ran the PCX to work for 1 day. Forza for the last week since I bought both of them. I would absolutely love to have lightweight sliders with a large diameter variator and smaller final ratio. Any information on other variators if the 20/15 weights flip? Do you think 9g sliders would even get a chance to flip since they are lighter? Is there even a gear kit available for the PCX?
What is a good muffler would you recommend for my 2016 pcx150.
Howdy, Mike! I don't recommend chasing performance gains on these scooters with expensive aftermarket exhausts and other engine hop-ups. These engines are already highly-tuned for a specific performance envelope (best power at a given consumption and emission level), so it's an expensive game of diminishing returns. You can spend lots of $$$ for very little gains in performance. If you have a damaged exhaust that needs to be replaced, or you just want to shed some weight, then an aftermarket exhaust isn't a bad option. Better looks and sound are nice bonuses if you aren't paying for just those alone.
With all of that out of the way... the Akrapovič Racing Line S-H125R4-HRSS is a great option for ~$600 ( www.akrapovic.com/en/moto/product/16294/Honda/PCX125-PC150/2016?brandId=30&modelId=732&yearId=4064 ). You can see that exhaust on my gray 2016 PCX150 in many videos ( th-cam.com/video/Ibgv-rGcmHY/w-d-xo.html ). I sold that scoot to Adrian last year with the exhaust still on it.
There are lots of other manufacturers out there, but I don't have any hands-on experience with those exhausts. You might want to check the huge selection at Webike Japan: japan.webike.net/HONDA/PCX150/Exhausts/6334/1001/mc/ . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Have you looked at Malossi Vatiators ?
I have used Malossi variators in the past, and they are good units. I had one in my Honda SilverWing 600 scooter for a short time before I upgraded it to the full Dr.Pulley performance variator and HiT clutch.
I've heard that the quality control of the Malossi units seems to be hit or miss. Some owners have experienced failures of the variator housing or rollers. I didn't have any problems with the unit that I had, but it was swapped out quickly... under 1500 miles on it before the Dr.Pulley system. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Does anyone know if the trailer he uses will fit on a PCX ? Is the PCX capable of Towing??
Howdy, John! I'm working with KipMoto to build a hitch for the SherpaX trailer to fit the PCX150. I'm hoping that we'll have time to finish that project before my next Scooter Cannonball Run in mid-June. I'm sure that the PCX will be capable of towing moderate loads... it would be no different than hauling a passenger. If my little Super Cub can pull the trailer for 10K+ miles, and Neil's little Zuma 125 can survive 50K miles pulling his trailers, then the PCX is a no-brainer! 😂
I think the easiest point to attach the hitch/hoop is at the PCX's lower rear shock mounts. I need to send him detailed measurements and pictures so he can work his magic for the quick-detach system (T-bolts that screw into captive plates on the rear axle or shocks). I plan to take additional measurements and pictures of the newer PCX160 and the ADV150 scooters to see if it can be a multi-purpose mount that fits all of Honda's 150/160 scooters. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
QM you have one Awesome channel!! Great videos!! Thx for the reply!!
When are you leaving for SCBR this year?
I'm planning to leave the Houston area no later than June 12 so I can arrive in San Clemente, California, on or before June 16. The SCBR starts on June 18, so I need to be there a couple of days early for the rider orientation, pre-ride bike inspection, etc. The total trip distance should be around 5300 miles.
I am considering riding up to the Barber Small Bore Festival, which happens June 9-11, so that might alter my departure plans. If I do that, then I'll need to leave Houston on June 6. I would arrive in Birmingham, Alabama, on June 7-8 and camp for the event on June 9-10. I would need to leave Birmingham on June 11 and ride straight to California. That option will add ~1400 miles to my total trip distance, totalling nearly 6700 miles. 😉👍 --QM
Isnt the cannonball coming through oklahoma?
Yes, we'll be spending an entire day riding through Oklahoma. Day 4 ends in Guymon, OK, and we'll ride through the length of the state ending in Miami, OK, at the end of Day 5: scootercannonball.com/route . 😉👍 --QM
So the lighter the slider the faster the take off ?
Yes, that's the general rule. Lighter sliders allow the engine to rev up higher and maintain a "lower" front pulley ratio longer for better acceleration.
The centrifugal force acting on the rollers/sliders and squeezing the front ramp plates together is countered by the "contra" spring tension in the rear driven pulley assembly. Stiffer contra springs maintain more pressure against the belt and resist the action of the front pulley trying to squeeze the belt up and forward. It's a delicate balancing act to get the desired performance. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Pourquoi tu n’utilises pas les pièces d’origines?
Bonjour, Yves! Les masselottes et le variateur d'origine Honda ne permettent au PCX d'atteindre que 63 mph (101 km/h). Le variateur Dr.Pulley amélioré et les poids du curseur augmentent la vitesse de pointe à 72-73 mph (116-117 km/h). L'économie de carburant augmente également d'environ 15 % en raison de la baisse du régime moteur à des vitesses de croisière normales.
Notre trafic est très rapide ici aux États-Unis, donc 15 km/h supplémentaires font une différence significative. Mes longs trajets routiers bénéficient de l'économie de carburant plus élevée et étendent mon autonomie entre les ravitaillements à 200-220 miles (322-354 km). Acclamations! 😉👍 --QM
i'm not having any luck on finding stuff for my trail that i want. so thinking of selling it and getting me a pcx or burgman. plus i hit a pit bull on my trail last week. oh and i am starting to notice a chatter on my wing when its cold but not after i run it a couple minutes. but i might sell it also. my trail is to slow to ride on long rides and everyone has to wait on me. and my wing is fast enough to hang with 90% of other bikes. but noone ever wants to ride anymore so i might sell it also so if you know anyone looking for a trail or a wing both of mine might be forsale. the trail i will most likely take payoff. the wing 5k is what i want for it.
They are not called sliders, they are called rollers, of which you have six. The sliders, of which there are three, fit on the cover plate and help it slide out to cause variation of contact diameter of the belt.
Good video.
I have a Honda sh125i which i think has the same running gear as your scooter. 2021, about to hit 40,000 miles, I do part time deliveroo etc.
The honda belt is good for 16,000 miles.
Why did you swap out the original variator? In the UK we only have the 125 version, mines still on oem.
Good points. However, Dr.Pulley calls their variator weights "sliders" because they aren't round and don't rotate like traditional variator roller weights. The Dr.Pulley weights have two flat sides (almost trapezoidal in shape), so the weight slides outward and upward on the ramps in the movable face. They give a higher lift profile against the stationary face, which provides more lift to raise the belt higher on the pulley. 😉👍
@@QuasiMotard I looked at these on the only site I found them on in Europe, SIP scooter shop, they have these for Vespas, but they still call them variator rollers.
Instead of sliders, they should call them weights.
I haven't seen these in the UK for sale for my scooter. I think the Forza, pcx and SHi 2020 plus, all take the same variator etc.
Hi, thanks for sharing your variator slider experience. It was a bit hard to see how you placed the sliders in the variator but after I watched the following video from Dr Pulley and thought Id ask if that's how you orientated them. Also when you re-assembled the variator, it would have been great to know if there was still a rattle in the variator when you shook the assembly in your hand? th-cam.com/video/yxcQGmT8EJc/w-d-xo.html