I don't know why anyone would say such a thing. The accordion style surround is what gives it the ability to throw so far. The maximum peak-to-peak excursion of this sub is 2.8 inches! That's some major excursion!
I had two of these running at 1ohm to a kenwood 1800w which is rated by kenwood at 1000w+ at that resistance and they had no issues with it, but while being loud, they were sloppy. so i have them running at 4ohms (same as in the video, but 500w). they hit hard and I can turn it up pretty much as loud as I want with no worries of them blowing, especially after seeing this video and how far they can REALLY travel.
Now, for everyone requesting that he list the demo songs used in the video, I can say definitively that the first track is by Bass Alliance. It's called Euro Bass Express, and is the 3rd track on their album Bass Overload. (He actually has it in his videos list). I listened to this disc numerous times, as well as several others by the likes of Bass 305 and Techmaster P.E.B. in my later years in high school and the Air Force in the early '90s (and still to this day). Those were good times!
This subwoofer is one of the best in the world! He plays all frequencies, and has a clean record and set! very good your sound, here in Brazil I built a sound with two 12''subwoofer 1500 WRMS amplifier with a 4.200 WRMS, after a look! Hugs
I got the record, I have'nt seen anyone beat it up like I do. I like to test the limits, and a lil beyond for good measure. Strait out the factory sealed box too. Put the gasket on, pulled a jumper, and just handed it it's ass. These are strong woofers to say the least. Linear, controlled, and powerful. I studied for a bit before deciding on what to put together. I'm glad you enjoyed it! I'll pull the other one and beat it up too. Just cause I can! There's clipping, cause the voltage was low....
I've been putting 600+RMS to my type R's daily for about half a year. Now I have them in a 5.2 ft^3 box @ ~26.5-27hz and after a couple low beat songs, the coils are cookin! but these things are phenomenal!
Great vid. Never seen a type r move so far. It has to be in a box though, thats why it gets hot. I run 1000 watts rms to mine and it is fine. Free air it, it heats up so fast its scarey. Put it back in the box it cools right back down. The cooling system on them only works when in a box. thats why it got hot. They can handle more than 600 watts. Good to see someone that acually made a type r move though. 5 stars.
Oh yea, easy. If you let it cool between burps I'm quite positive it would do that over and over, no problem. The mechanical strength on these will take that abuse I'm sure.! Thanks man for the compliments, I appreciate it!
Depends on what you listen too, and what your looking for. If your looking to beat the block down, I'd say ported for sure. If your looking for a good balance of sound quality and still want to get loud, sealed is the good choice. A well designed ported box will yeild clean sound too and get even louder. Look into PWK designs. Pete is the owner, and he builds the best ported boxes bar none. He's one of the best there is.
Oops missed this comment bro. That's exactly right, you hit it right on the money man. Everything you said is 100% correct. I have my stuff wored up just the way you have yours, the proper way. You already know I ran a copper ground cable now... I do still have to get my ass outside and terminate and connect it.
I ran a ground cable to my ground Stinger block today. I have not made the final terminations yet, I still have to connect it to the battery and the ground block, but we'll see today if it helps. I think it might help a lil, but I have the frame rail that is one solid peice for a ground. It goes from the front of the frame rail under the hood, right under my seat. Thats where I made the connection to the ground distro block. Should be very low resistance, but there's also a copper run now.
yo yo yo i fink u got the record on utube for d biggest excursion out of a type r!!!..thats incredible!!!!!!!!!!! That spider was takin a lot of beating....iv never seen a spider during high excursion like that..its scary dude! BUT I dont agree that a type r can only take 600rms...your bass notes where probably peaking way above that. great vid man.
Your welcome! Thank you for the compliment! So dude, don't be fooled... the quality of these is unmatched for the money you pay for them. #1 bang for the buck. You'll never beat the Type-R in sound quality or SPL capability for the same amount of money. They are the best value hands down! If you decide to buy one you won't be disappointed! I did a lot of research before making my purchases. Alpine is good bang for your buck all the way around!
@Monkeypumper420 - I was in between systems and i bought two 10'' type r's just to get thru and i had a Memphis Mojo 4000 running 2 ohm to the r's and they would take it. It was pushing a little more that 2000 watts rms of clean power. They couldn't take it all day but they held up and there wasn't hardly ANY distortion even st double the rms power rating. pound for pound one of the BEST subs EVER made
I agree 100% about the bang for the buck!!! They are the best value, hardest hitting, cleanest sounding sub you can get in their price range. Period! They are underrated but not by much. People keep saying they will take 1000 RMS, but they fail to understand they have shitty amps that DO NOT do real watts. Not even close. My MRD-M1005 does 700 CEA rated watts RMS @ 14.4 volts, and I can smoke the VC easily on one woofer if I don't take it easy. They will not do anything over 600 true RMS period!
@iGOTCHOPPERS1 Some say that a break-in period is meant to 'loosen' the surround and spider. Some also say the break-in period is more intended for the enamel on the voice coil, heating and cooling it numerous times without being over-run as to "temper" the enamel coating. Either way, it doesn't matter whether you go through that break-in period if you're just showing the excursion of a woofer.
I enjoyed the video, Monkeypumper420. Thanks. I have a new SWR-1243D as well as a MRP-M500 on the way that I can't wait to put to use with my older CDA-9856 in my 2000 Tacoma. Alpine all the way!
@DjDman205, that's pretty much what I have now, and the large copper runs will help get the power(voltage) to the amp so it does not clip under heavy load. That's why that theory is somewhat valid, but if I wan't to smell subs and make them hot, I can with a simple twist of the wrist. Your right in the fact that, it will help keep the subs cooler if your amp is clipping from voltage drop.
hey man. I hooked up my dual 2ohm on my house amp...showing a 4ohm load i got 100rms...free air i was getting 1 - 1.5 inch excursion on bass tones 15-35hz...looked crazy and cone wasnt even getting hot! sweet woofer.
Thanks! I don't mean to be offensive if I come off that way. K? In a box, the woofer has to compress air. Out of the box it does'nt. The excursion is what vents the coil through the radial vented VC heat sink airflow system. It gets higher excursion, cooler flow and less resistance out of it's box, cooling the VC a LOT more. It works in OR out of the box. The themal capacity for this woofer is 600 *REAL* watts RMS. I can smell the others in the box too at the same or even less *REAL* RMS watts.
Yeah ive been in my buddies car and hes running a PA monoblock 2000 Watts at 1 ohm(stable) to 2 of these subs. Its nice because the mathimatics with the amplifier match up very nice with the subwoofers. I love when you find perfect matches for this kind of stuff, its hard to now adays.
@darkday101, good comment my man, and thanks your using your brain. I have to say your audio game = legit. You understand box rise and other variables. It's about time someone with some sence came along and commented my vid. Kudos to you.
@kittyabuser, The box also has an effect on this change in impedance, and the rise in impedance as you approach the Fs of the driver and enclosure is directly proportional to the efficiency. (weird but that's how it works.. balances out in a sense.)
@blazinloud, true, in a sence, but they won't take large amounts of power for any length of time. Example : You could take a 5 watt clock radio speaker and put 100 watts to it for a split second, and it might live to tell about it, but feed it 20 watts for less than 10 seconds and you got yourself a paper weight. Just cause the R's will do 1000 watts for tiny bursts, does not mean they will do it all the time without issues.
I think the camera did ok picking it up. It looked HUGE to me when I was sitting next to it. I'd have to say real close to 3'' peak to peak at times. I was worried about the spyder ripping but they are tougher than I expected. I played it a bit before turning the camera on, seeing how far I could push it. I was cranking close to full power, and the coil started getting smelly before I could cause any mechanical damage. These woofers are very linear and powerful. Good motors on these things.
The type R's are known for being "Tank subs" meaning they will take more power than what they are rated for. I had 2 of the type r 12s running a SPL 2400 at 2ohm at the amp 1k watts to each sub and never had an issue no stinky subs or distortion and I beat the shit out of the subs all day long they never got hot.
Thanks man! I DO hold the record! I'm not scared to push stuff to the limits... I have two extras for a reason! Read the description, and you'll see there's two spiders. I'll make a vid, just to show you. I reached the thermal capacity of the Vcoil here, whatever power it's getting. Mabey it is getting more power than I think! I did'nt meter it so I cant say.... I think it was building heat in the coil on the high bass notes where the cone is'nt moving so much. I dunno. Glad you liked it!
@kittyabuser, when you talk about a sub being 4 ohms, that's a nominal or "average" impedance. The DCR or DC resistance of that sub is actually about 3.6 ohms at rest. A speaker is a reactive load. You're sending current through a coil of wire when producing sound with a speaker, and this generates inductance. As a result, the impedance of the speaker will vary with the frequency of the alternating current going through it's coil (the frequency of the sound you're playing.)
I'll be building a ported box this summer to beat down the truck a bit more. I'll be building one for maximum SPL. Might take a couple boxes to get it right but, I'll get 'er done...
@hollowpoint10mm ported will be louder but kinda boomy. sealed will be tighter sounding. ive got 2 type-r's in separate enclosures, ported @ 40Hz, sounds ace!!! some top-end Vibe components would be good 6.5's for you, or JL if you want crystal clear highs.
@brandonseiler, The easiest thing to do is get a 1.5 cube slot ported box tuned to around 38hz. Slot port should be facing back as well as the sub. You'll be bangin pretty hard with one 10! Those CRX's get loud fairly easy.
Dude, comment all you want Thom. No worries! I have the BattCap in there still, and we'll see if it works better. There's a thick ass frame rail AND a copper run for the ground now. I hope I get a smidge more voltage. Every drop counts. I have overkill on both the positive run and the ground run. We'll see what happens! I have doubts, but you never know till you try it! Right?
Your right... The amp was clipping. The voltage from the batteries was low because I hadn't run the truck for a few day's, and I never started it after draining them even more for a bit, before making this vid. My amp does that on my other woofers too when the voltage gets low.
Have you seen the new r's? there rated for like 100 or so more rms and they changed the color, i think the magnet, and i think it has a lower frequency response to
I know enough... I have a never dying thirst for it though. Clipping does make the voice coil heat up, as it's a strait DC signal. The BL, or magnetic motor force that drives the cone/coil assemebly is decreased at peak excursion and when the coil is out of it's magnetic gap, it stops moving, thus heating up. That's what's happening here. The coil is getting too much power. Higher frequencies also heat the voice coil, as it does'nt move much, so it builds heat, until the deep notes cool it off.
Its doing 14 with the volume cranked. The volt meters dont even move. But for 600$ for an alternator it better be worth it. But this was not always the case. When I had the stock charging system the engine would die from the power being drawn. It sucked. I am running a line driver for the rca's so I do have some adjustment there. Im running a ported box on mine and its too cool. The roof flexes, you cant see out of the mears, its great. And for only 160$ for the type-r, its well worth it.
Ebay bro. That will help your budget a lot. There's good sellers that will give you a factory warranty too. You can get a PDX1000.1 for around $400 shipped. The RF amp is killer too, either one would be a very good choice for your R's. The PDX will do rated wattage from 2-4 ohms. @ 4 ohms you get very good dampning, and it will sound very controlled and clean, at the same time you'll get every watt it's rated for. I'm looking up the RF amp now...
Your amp does have CEA certification, and I bet it does over that by a small margin to pass the cert. Your surley getting that power to 'em with your electrical system. The cooling system on these subs work the same in or out of the box, it just doesn't do as well inside the enclosure because of two reasons, one the box is warm inside, two is because the excursion isn't as much when the sub woofer is loaded with the compressed air. I'm glad you understand RMS and peak power.
Also sorry for commmenting a lot but use the battcap if you still have it. Without a bigger alt running the ground wire will drain the battery worse. It will suck more power because of the better flow.
@Unbox2Review, a single one in it's optimal ported enclosure should, but 2 12'' R's would definatly do it sealed or ported, if it's powered up to capacity.
Your amp is a great amp. It has all the power of mine, I know that for sure, it's just missing the links for the control cable to the deck, so you can adjust it from up front, and the digital readout. Did it come with a spec, or birth sheet? Also hows that mean green alternator working out? What kind of voltage are you seeing at the amp under full load? I need to do mine here soon cause my alternator is hurting! It still feeds my system good voltage but I know it won't last.
Thanks, I was going for broke. Figured I would push it to the max, and a lil beyond for good measure. Try to let people know these things are serious quality for the price you pay. I'll make a new vid soon with just the right frequencies, see if I can take it to the absolute limit, mabey a bit more even. The carnage will be posted IF that happens. These things are tough as nails, so I really doubt it. We'll see....
i played 'bass i love you' for 12 hours straight on my altec vs2421 when i got it the other day, just to break in the woofer. the woofer was hard as hell when i first received the speaker, but got quite a bit softer after i played bass for 12 hours straight lol
Hey I'm really wanting to put some subs in my van and I have never had subs before and don't really know how everything works right yet. I'm looking at putting in 2 Alpine SWR-1242D 12" Type-R Series Subwoofers (4 Oh. What amp would you suggest to get a really good output form these amps and basically full moneys worth. Also besides wiring kits what else would i need to get everything fully set up and running properly. Thank a lot for your help!
@Alexcopley5, if you set the gains correctly, sure they will be perfectly fine on that amp. Use good judgment, take it easy on the low lows, make sure your not clippin, and keep a nostril open for hot coils.
@Monkeypumper420 hey man quick question, when I crank up my volume on my speakers I can 'smell' them ..I always lower the volume if I do smell something weird, I only have about 3 weeks with these. Any idea if this is bad or not ?
DAMN!!! $600 for the alt? OUCH! My idle fluctuates when I'm slammin so I know what you mean. My alt will die a hideous, slow death!!! I'll get a better one when it does! I have enough reserve capacity to get me home when the day comes! Lol! I'm surprised it's hung for as long as it has! It's only a 136 AMP unit too. The Type-R subs are the best bang for your dollar for subs you can get. Very high quality for a great price! Sound quality and SPL capability is unmatched in the price bracket!
You can face them anyway you want bro! Breaking in speakers is a myth... The only thing that happens during breakin is, the subs the suspension gets looser, and you gain efficiency. You can feed the sub it's full rated power right off the bat and it will be fine. In fact it will be harder to bottom when new :)
@Monkeypumper420 thats a good point. i run 1000 rms daily on mine. when it comes to subs your enclosure can help your overall power handling. i burp at 16,000 on all 8 of mine. but 8,000 watts of clean power they run completely fine. id like to note they will not handle 20 hz with this much power. but they will place on it with 600 rms of power haha
I'm running one type R 12" off of a kenwood KAC-929. 1000 watts max but its like 460 watts RMS at 4 ohms bridged... that should be fine right? I haven't actually hooked it up yet, but I figured you'd know haha...
Watts up Thom! I kinda got what you meant here but I kinda didn't. Your saying parallel @ the subs then running the two subs in series? I see what you mean about linearly driving both coils EXACTLY at the same time. Never tried it... Maybe I should just for fun...
It's by "Bass Alliance". First track is "Euro-Bass Express [Eurobass Express]'. Second track is "Count Down to Bass". The whole CD is sick. PM me with your E-mail and I'll send them.
i did the same thing to my 15" alpine but i left it in the box. rant it 1 ohm on a sundown 1500wrms amp. but my battry voltage was low so it was probbly getting more like 1000wrms, some how the sub did not get hot on me.
i have two 12vs type r's.....with a 1000 watt .....i think its way under powered??....what size of amp is big enough to be pussing them almost to the limit????
Yeah, they like to charge a lot for a jeep cherokee alt for some reason. The stock was only 90. Even a 120 went from 90$ to 450$. How long have you used your amp? When I first got my type r, I had a soundstream rated at only 200 rms. It sounded ok but the amp was doing something funny to where it got the sub really hot with very little use.
i bought one of these with book return school just for the hell of it about 1 1/2 years ago, at the time i only had a jl 500/1 to play around with...now when im back in the summer im gonna hook it up to 1300rms and see how well it handles it lol, then ill test out a type-x i have
@haynes254, well considering the 15'' Type-R you have has two 4 ohm coils, it's impossible to get it to one ohm unless you have two. Your only going to be able to get it down to 2 ohms. + to + and - to - jumpers on the sub, then a wire from your amp terminals to either set of terminals on the sub itself. You would have to get another 15'' R cause Alpine does not make a dual 2 ohm version like these 12's I have, hene the model # SWR-1542, and not SWR-1522. Make sense?
@coolaidkiller101 It's the 10th track on the same album. The title of the song is 'Count Down to Bass'. Again, check the uploader's other videos. The entire album has been provided.
@MrzXRob maybe a blown voice coil... or also try checking the screws on the box that happened to my 2 bass 6.5 speakers in mi room but i thightened the screw and it was nice and clean
@kittyabuser, read the first few comments bro. What amp are you using? Your electrical capable of letting it make full power? If you have a 1000 watt amp(Real 1000 watts RMS, not some inflated marketing claim) and the electrical to push it, I'd bet my left one your not seeing anywhere near 900 watts rms. There's things to consider, like box rise, voltage drops, impedence rise from hot coils, and a lot more. I bet if you clamped it it would be seeing MUCh less than you might like to think.
@brandonseiler, that's perfect. Your gonna be beatin nice for 1 10. It's a lil bigger than what Alpine recommends, but that will make it more efficient and be louder overall. Your bass extention should be good as well. I think you'll be pleased with the performance once it's all said and done.
"its really cookin, imma take it easy" *turns it back up to 60*
I don't know why anyone would say such a thing. The accordion style surround is what gives it the ability to throw so far. The maximum peak-to-peak excursion of this sub is 2.8 inches! That's some major excursion!
I had a dual 2 ohm type like this, its an amazing model well made and over built, I wired one to 1 ohm and fed it 800rms and it ate it no problem,
I had two of these running at 1ohm to a kenwood 1800w which is rated by kenwood at 1000w+ at that resistance and they had no issues with it, but while being loud, they were sloppy. so i have them running at 4ohms (same as in the video, but 500w). they hit hard and I can turn it up pretty much as loud as I want with no worries of them blowing, especially after seeing this video and how far they can REALLY travel.
Now, for everyone requesting that he list the demo songs used in the video, I can say definitively that the first track is by Bass Alliance. It's called Euro Bass Express, and is the 3rd track on their album Bass Overload. (He actually has it in his videos list).
I listened to this disc numerous times, as well as several others by the likes of Bass 305 and Techmaster P.E.B. in my later years in high school and the Air Force in the early '90s (and still to this day). Those were good times!
This subwoofer is one of the best in the world! He plays all frequencies, and has a clean record and set! very good your sound, here in Brazil I built a sound with two 12''subwoofer 1500 WRMS amplifier with a 4.200 WRMS, after a look! Hugs
I got the record, I have'nt seen anyone beat it up like I do. I like to test the limits, and a lil beyond for good measure. Strait out the factory sealed box too. Put the gasket on, pulled a jumper, and just handed it it's ass. These are strong woofers to say the least. Linear, controlled, and powerful. I studied for a bit before deciding on what to put together. I'm glad you enjoyed it! I'll pull the other one and beat it up too. Just cause I can! There's clipping, cause the voltage was low....
I've been putting 600+RMS to my type R's daily for about half a year. Now I have them in a 5.2 ft^3 box @ ~26.5-27hz and after a couple low beat songs, the coils are cookin! but these things are phenomenal!
best alpine video most def.
Great vid. Never seen a type r move so far. It has to be in a box though, thats why it gets hot. I run 1000 watts rms to mine and it is fine. Free air it, it heats up so fast its scarey. Put it back in the box it cools right back down. The cooling system on them only works when in a box. thats why it got hot. They can handle more than 600 watts. Good to see someone that acually made a type r move though. 5 stars.
I am putting 700rms into the 4th gen alpine that I have, it takes the power, and absolutely loves it as well.
Oh yea, easy. If you let it cool between burps I'm quite positive it would do that over and over, no problem. The mechanical strength on these will take that abuse I'm sure.! Thanks man for the compliments, I appreciate it!
Depends on what you listen too, and what your looking for. If your looking to beat the block down, I'd say ported for sure. If your looking for a good balance of sound quality and still want to get loud, sealed is the good choice. A well designed ported box will yeild clean sound too and get even louder. Look into PWK designs. Pete is the owner, and he builds the best ported boxes bar none. He's one of the best there is.
Oops missed this comment bro. That's exactly right, you hit it right on the money man. Everything you said is 100% correct. I have my stuff wored up just the way you have yours, the proper way. You already know I ran a copper ground cable now... I do still have to get my ass outside and terminate and connect it.
I ran a ground cable to my ground Stinger block today. I have not made the final terminations yet, I still have to connect it to the battery and the ground block, but we'll see today if it helps. I think it might help a lil, but I have the frame rail that is one solid peice for a ground. It goes from the front of the frame rail under the hood, right under my seat. Thats where I made the connection to the ground distro block. Should be very low resistance, but there's also a copper run now.
yo yo yo i fink u got the record on utube for d biggest excursion out of a type r!!!..thats incredible!!!!!!!!!!! That spider was takin a lot of beating....iv never seen a spider during high excursion like that..its scary dude! BUT I dont agree that a type r can only take 600rms...your bass notes where probably peaking way above that. great vid man.
Your welcome! Thank you for the compliment! So dude, don't be fooled... the quality of these is unmatched for the money you pay for them. #1 bang for the buck. You'll never beat the Type-R in sound quality or SPL capability for the same amount of money. They are the best value hands down! If you decide to buy one you won't be disappointed! I did a lot of research before making my purchases. Alpine is good bang for your buck all the way around!
i love type r's..they hit great and are durable
@Monkeypumper420 - I was in between systems and i bought two 10'' type r's just to get thru and i had a Memphis Mojo 4000 running 2 ohm to the r's and they would take it. It was pushing a little more that 2000 watts rms of clean power. They couldn't take it all day but they held up and there wasn't hardly ANY distortion even st double the rms power rating. pound for pound one of the BEST subs EVER made
Type R's have always been great subs, always love makin boxes for those beats. Badass vid, that arrr is movin like crazy!
never seen this 1 before,good stuff man 5 stars for my homeboy
I agree 100% about the bang for the buck!!! They are the best value, hardest hitting, cleanest sounding sub you can get in their price range. Period! They are underrated but not by much. People keep saying they will take 1000 RMS, but they fail to understand they have shitty amps that DO NOT do real watts. Not even close. My MRD-M1005 does 700 CEA rated watts RMS @ 14.4 volts, and I can smoke the VC easily on one woofer if I don't take it easy. They will not do anything over 600 true RMS period!
@iGOTCHOPPERS1
Some say that a break-in period is meant to 'loosen' the surround and spider. Some also say the break-in period is more intended for the enamel on the voice coil, heating and cooling it numerous times without being over-run as to "temper" the enamel coating. Either way, it doesn't matter whether you go through that break-in period if you're just showing the excursion of a woofer.
I enjoyed the video, Monkeypumper420. Thanks.
I have a new SWR-1243D as well as a MRP-M500 on the way that I can't wait to put to use with my older CDA-9856 in my 2000 Tacoma. Alpine all the way!
I love Type-R subwoofers. I am working on a big ass cut through with four of these for my Tacoma now..
@DjDman205, that's pretty much what I have now, and the large copper runs will help get the power(voltage) to the amp so it does not clip under heavy load. That's why that theory is somewhat valid, but if I wan't to smell subs and make them hot, I can with a simple twist of the wrist.
Your right in the fact that, it will help keep the subs cooler if your amp is clipping from voltage drop.
hey man. I hooked up my dual 2ohm on my house amp...showing a 4ohm load i got 100rms...free air i was getting 1 - 1.5 inch excursion on bass tones 15-35hz...looked crazy and cone wasnt even getting hot! sweet woofer.
Thanks! I don't mean to be offensive if I come off that way. K? In a box, the woofer has to compress air. Out of the box it does'nt. The excursion is what vents the coil through the radial vented VC heat sink airflow system. It gets higher excursion, cooler flow and less resistance out of it's box, cooling the VC a LOT more. It works in OR out of the box. The themal capacity for this woofer is 600 *REAL* watts RMS. I can smell the others in the box too at the same or even less *REAL* RMS watts.
It's by "Bass Alliance". First track is "Euro-Bass Express [Eurobass Express]'. Second track is "Count Down to Bass".
That Type R is really Moving!
Yeah ive been in my buddies car and hes running a PA monoblock 2000 Watts at 1 ohm(stable) to 2 of these subs. Its nice because the mathimatics with the amplifier match up very nice with the subwoofers. I love when you find perfect matches for this kind of stuff, its hard to now adays.
Those mids n highs sound hella clean.
@darkday101, good comment my man, and thanks your using your brain. I have to say your audio game = legit. You understand box rise and other variables. It's about time someone with some sence came along and commented my vid. Kudos to you.
@kittyabuser, The box also has an effect on this change in impedance, and the rise in impedance as you approach the Fs of the driver and enclosure is directly proportional to the efficiency. (weird but that's how it works.. balances out in a sense.)
I got a 12" type R 1000rms at 1ohm powered by a audiopipe 1000rms 1ohm stable in custom box and it hit hard as hell sun hands the rms very well.
@blazinloud, true, in a sence, but they won't take large amounts of power for any length of time. Example : You could take a 5 watt clock radio speaker and put 100 watts to it for a split second, and it might live to tell about it, but feed it 20 watts for less than 10 seconds and you got yourself a paper weight. Just cause the R's will do 1000 watts for tiny bursts, does not mean they will do it all the time without issues.
I think the camera did ok picking it up. It looked HUGE to me when I was sitting next to it. I'd have to say real close to 3'' peak to peak at times. I was worried about the spyder ripping but they are tougher than I expected. I played it a bit before turning the camera on, seeing how far I could push it. I was cranking close to full power, and the coil started getting smelly before I could cause any mechanical damage. These woofers are very linear and powerful. Good motors on these things.
The type R's are known for being "Tank subs" meaning they will take more power than what they are rated for. I had 2 of the type r 12s running a SPL 2400 at 2ohm at the amp 1k watts to each sub and never had an issue no stinky subs or distortion and I beat the shit out of the subs all day long they never got hot.
Thanks man! I DO hold the record! I'm not scared to push stuff to the limits... I have two extras for a reason! Read the description, and you'll see there's two spiders. I'll make a vid, just to show you. I reached the thermal capacity of the Vcoil here, whatever power it's getting. Mabey it is getting more power than I think! I did'nt meter it so I cant say.... I think it was building heat in the coil on the high bass notes where the cone is'nt moving so much. I dunno. Glad you liked it!
@kittyabuser, when you talk about a sub being 4 ohms, that's a nominal or "average" impedance. The DCR or DC resistance of that sub is actually about 3.6 ohms at rest.
A speaker is a reactive load. You're sending current through a coil of wire when producing sound with a speaker, and this generates inductance. As a result, the impedance of the speaker will vary with the frequency of the alternating current going through it's coil (the frequency of the sound you're playing.)
I'll be building a ported box this summer to beat down the truck a bit more. I'll be building one for maximum SPL. Might take a couple boxes to get it right but, I'll get 'er done...
@hollowpoint10mm
ported will be louder but kinda boomy. sealed will be tighter sounding. ive got 2 type-r's in separate enclosures, ported @ 40Hz, sounds ace!!! some top-end Vibe components would be good 6.5's for you, or JL if you want crystal clear highs.
@brandonseiler, The easiest thing to do is get a 1.5 cube slot ported box tuned to around 38hz. Slot port should be facing back as well as the sub. You'll be bangin pretty hard with one 10! Those CRX's get loud fairly easy.
mmm impressive free air ride :P nice sub , seems to be really good
We put 2500 on two 10inch type R's reliably with the right box (tuned to about 45hz, SPL box). Measured it to be that wattage with multimeter.
Dude, comment all you want Thom. No worries! I have the BattCap in there still, and we'll see if it works better. There's a thick ass frame rail AND a copper run for the ground now. I hope I get a smidge more voltage. Every drop counts. I have overkill on both the positive run and the ground run. We'll see what happens! I have doubts, but you never know till you try it! Right?
Your right... The amp was clipping. The voltage from the batteries was low because I hadn't run the truck for a few day's, and I never started it after draining them even more for a bit, before making this vid. My amp does that on my other woofers too when the voltage gets low.
Have you seen the new r's? there rated for like 100 or so more rms and they changed the color, i think the magnet, and i think it has a lower frequency response to
i know this is a old vid but could you tell me the name of the second track thanks.
I know enough... I have a never dying thirst for it though. Clipping does make the voice coil heat up, as it's a strait DC signal. The BL, or magnetic motor force that drives the cone/coil assemebly is decreased at peak excursion and when the coil is out of it's magnetic gap, it stops moving, thus heating up. That's what's happening here. The coil is getting too much power. Higher frequencies also heat the voice coil, as it does'nt move much, so it builds heat, until the deep notes cool it off.
Its doing 14 with the volume cranked. The volt meters dont even move. But for 600$ for an alternator it better be worth it. But this was not always the case. When I had the stock charging system the engine would die from the power being drawn. It sucked.
I am running a line driver for the rca's so I do have some adjustment there. Im running a ported box on mine and its too cool. The roof flexes, you cant see out of the mears, its great. And for only 160$ for the type-r, its well worth it.
Ebay bro. That will help your budget a lot. There's good sellers that will give you a factory warranty too. You can get a PDX1000.1 for around $400 shipped. The RF amp is killer too, either one would be a very good choice for your R's.
The PDX will do rated wattage from 2-4 ohms. @ 4 ohms you get very good dampning, and it will sound very controlled and clean, at the same time you'll get every watt it's rated for. I'm looking up the RF amp now...
Your amp does have CEA certification, and I bet it does over that by a small margin to pass the cert. Your surley getting that power to 'em with your electrical system. The cooling system on these subs work the same in or out of the box, it just doesn't do as well inside the enclosure because of two reasons, one the box is warm inside, two is because the excursion isn't as much when the sub woofer is loaded with the compressed air. I'm glad you understand RMS and peak power.
Also sorry for commmenting a lot but use the battcap if you still have it. Without a bigger alt running the ground wire will drain the battery worse. It will suck more power because of the better flow.
hey dude that looks sick what type of make and model r they i want them lol
@Monkeypumper420 hey would you recommend going with one 12inch type r or going with 2 12 inch jbl gt5-12D budget is set to be under 400
@Unbox2Review, a single one in it's optimal ported enclosure should, but 2 12'' R's would definatly do it sealed or ported, if it's powered up to capacity.
Your amp is a great amp. It has all the power of mine, I know that for sure, it's just missing the links for the control cable to the deck, so you can adjust it from up front, and the digital readout. Did it come with a spec, or birth sheet? Also hows that mean green alternator working out? What kind of voltage are you seeing at the amp under full load? I need to do mine here soon cause my alternator is hurting! It still feeds my system good voltage but I know it won't last.
Thanks, I was going for broke. Figured I would push it to the max, and a lil beyond for good measure. Try to let people know these things are serious quality for the price you pay. I'll make a new vid soon with just the right frequencies, see if I can take it to the absolute limit, mabey a bit more even. The carnage will be posted IF that happens. These things are tough as nails, so I really doubt it. We'll see....
@Monkeypumper420 would that cause a 4 ohm sub to clip at high volume?.....lower than it's rated wattage.
nice excursion
hey dude that looks sick what type of make and model r they i want them lol and whats the song
how is the sound quality of the type-r's? they are really cheap and take a lot of power. will they satisfy someone with their eye on sq like me?
What's your opinion if I ask which would you prefer, Sundown Audio SA-12's or Alpine Type-R 12"? Looking at getting either one but am undecided...
i played 'bass i love you' for 12 hours straight on my altec vs2421 when i got it the other day, just to break in the woofer. the woofer was hard as hell when i first received the speaker, but got quite a bit softer after i played bass for 12 hours straight lol
Hey I'm really wanting to put some subs in my van and I have never had subs before and don't really know how everything works right yet. I'm looking at putting in 2 Alpine SWR-1242D 12" Type-R Series Subwoofers (4 Oh. What amp would you suggest to get a really good output form these amps and basically full moneys worth. Also besides wiring kits what else would i need to get everything fully set up and running properly. Thank a lot for your help!
@Alexcopley5, if you set the gains correctly, sure they will be perfectly fine on that amp. Use good judgment, take it easy on the low lows, make sure your not clippin, and keep a nostril open for hot coils.
@Monkeypumper420 hey man quick question, when I crank up my volume on my speakers I can 'smell' them ..I always lower the volume if I do smell something weird, I only have about 3 weeks with these. Any idea if this is bad or not ?
DAMN!!! $600 for the alt? OUCH! My idle fluctuates when I'm slammin so I know what you mean. My alt will die a hideous, slow death!!! I'll get a better one when it does! I have enough reserve capacity to get me home when the day comes! Lol! I'm surprised it's hung for as long as it has! It's only a 136 AMP unit too. The Type-R subs are the best bang for your dollar for subs you can get. Very high quality for a great price! Sound quality and SPL capability is unmatched in the price bracket!
You can face them anyway you want bro! Breaking in speakers is a myth... The only thing that happens during breakin is, the subs the suspension gets looser, and you gain efficiency. You can feed the sub it's full rated power right off the bat and it will be fine. In fact it will be harder to bottom when new :)
@Monkeypumper420 thats a good point. i run 1000 rms daily on mine. when it comes to subs your enclosure can help your overall power handling. i burp at 16,000 on all 8 of mine. but 8,000 watts of clean power they run completely fine. id like to note they will not handle 20 hz with this much power. but they will place on it with 600 rms of power haha
I'm running one type R 12" off of a kenwood KAC-929. 1000 watts max but its like 460 watts RMS at 4 ohms bridged... that should be fine right? I haven't actually hooked it up yet, but I figured you'd know haha...
@MacaSteff, it's the camera mic bro. It sounded clean when making this vid, but there was some motor noise on some of the extreme exursions.
Contrary to what you may believe, I have seen several instances where this sub has been put on a 1000RMS load daily.
Watts up Thom! I kinda got what you meant here but I kinda didn't. Your saying parallel @ the subs then running the two subs in series? I see what you mean about linearly driving both coils EXACTLY at the same time. Never tried it... Maybe I should just for fun...
It's by "Bass Alliance". First track is "Euro-Bass Express [Eurobass Express]'. Second track is "Count Down to Bass". The whole CD is sick. PM me with your E-mail and I'll send them.
Damn! That things moving.
i did the same thing to my 15" alpine but i left it in the box. rant it 1 ohm on a sundown 1500wrms amp. but my battry voltage was low so it was probbly getting more like 1000wrms, some how the sub did not get hot on me.
RockeyDAproductions waaaat
i have two 12vs type r's.....with a 1000 watt .....i think its way under powered??....what size of amp is big enough to be pussing them almost to the limit????
Yeah, they like to charge a lot for a jeep cherokee alt for some reason. The stock was only 90. Even a 120 went from 90$ to 450$.
How long have you used your amp? When I first got my type r, I had a soundstream rated at only 200 rms. It sounded ok but the amp was doing something funny to where it got the sub really hot with very little use.
i bought one of these with book return school just for the hell of it about 1 1/2 years ago, at the time i only had a jl 500/1 to play around with...now when im back in the summer im gonna hook it up to 1300rms and see how well it handles it lol, then ill test out a type-x i have
sup homes..im getting 2 type r 12's. will my 2 channel 760 watt amp be too much for the two, if i run them parallel?
@subw123, these 12's have a 2 inch coil bro. The 15 Type-R has a 2.5 inch coil.
whats the song you played for the one cat?
what would happen if you put that banana plug in the other holes on the other side of the terminal
@haynes254, well considering the 15'' Type-R you have has two 4 ohm coils, it's impossible to get it to one ohm unless you have two. Your only going to be able to get it down to 2 ohms. + to + and - to - jumpers on the sub, then a wire from your amp terminals to either set of terminals on the sub itself. You would have to get another 15'' R cause Alpine does not make a dual 2 ohm version like these 12's I have, hene the model # SWR-1542, and not SWR-1522. Make sense?
how do you tell what generation you have? I just bought two NIB SWR12-D4's and plan to run them off a 3k hifonics amp @ 1 ohm
@coolaidkiller101
It's the 10th track on the same album. The title of the song is 'Count Down to Bass'. Again, check the uploader's other videos. The entire album has been provided.
@MrzXRob maybe a blown voice coil... or also try checking the screws on the box that happened to my 2 bass 6.5 speakers in mi room but i thightened the screw and it was nice and clean
should i get a sealed or ported box with a 1000 watt v power amp? i'm gonna have 2 12'' type r's and i just cant decide whats right
Dude that's crazy!! I have a type e and I want a type r, r ur subs the normal or the truck type?
what was the album and artist of the seconed song thax!!!!!
how come you have it set for 8 ohm not 4 or 2?
can i have the extra one please ? :)
@hobinshnobin 85rms is like a quiff. You can put around 1000 rms o clean power without any damage.
next week i will put it too! beast
Does more excursion in a subwoofer mean more vibrations (rattling) in a car?
@kittyabuser, read the first few comments bro. What amp are you using? Your electrical capable of letting it make full power? If you have a 1000 watt amp(Real 1000 watts RMS, not some inflated marketing claim) and the electrical to push it, I'd bet my left one your not seeing anywhere near 900 watts rms. There's things to consider, like box rise, voltage drops, impedence rise from hot coils, and a lot more. I bet if you clamped it it would be seeing MUCh less than you might like to think.
@brandonseiler, that's perfect. Your gonna be beatin nice for 1 10. It's a lil bigger than what Alpine recommends, but that will make it more efficient and be louder overall. Your bass extention should be good as well. I think you'll be pleased with the performance once it's all said and done.
hey im wondering if you can help me out
i have a Alpine Type e 10" sub that makes loud clapping noises when the bass hits is there any way ti fix it??