Thank you sir ...😻 Wow I'm working on a pulse jet for my college project, and this is a gold mine after searching for a month on youtube about pulse jet, Can't believe this video came to my use after 11 years
About time. Thank you for this. in before "I don't need valves on my pulse jet because I don't care about thrust or efficiency, I just want to make a loud noise."
After being subscribed for years on the #RCModelReviews and the XJET channel I am glad I've found this channel too. This etching technique is brilliant easy and cheap, thanks for sharing.
I just have to point out just how transformative and absolutely genius this technique is. Thank you so much for showing me something that will be useful in countless ways. I won’t need to waste money on paying someone to cut or me buy a laser-cutter or CNC. 🙏🏽
What a blast from the past this is! I made my first and only pulse jet 40 years ago, worked well until I bent it. Electro etching was and still is a good cheap method of producing fiddly parts. I also used to stencil etch markings on panels of projects and bespoke builds. Was easier than going to the engravers - well cheaper anyway.
Thank you for this excellent video. I make Tesla type turbines. I needed a way to make the disks easily. This beats all my speculative ideas hands down. I had thought of using plasma cutters, dies, lathes, mills, drills. Yeesh! This is fantastic and the detail is precisely faithful to the pattern Thank you for this excellent method discourse. John Mahler
I just pulled my pettal valves out of the solution after following this guy STEP BY STEP. when I pulled them out after only 15 hours (instead of the suggested 20, just to check on them) I found that they were already completly etched all the way through. In fact they were "over etched." the sides were completely jagged and the center hole was enlarged sizably. the only thing I think that i might have done different was use two 13 watt bulbs instead of two 5 watt bulbs.
this is a genius way of making perfection parts thanks for showing this i can use this technique on a lot of other parts for lots of my other hobbies as well.
I was looking for a way to make a planar spring for a free piston Stirling engine and this is the perfect way! Thanks! Only thing left is to find spring steel now...
Thank you for being very specific in your instructions. I tried this method several times in the past and the paint lifted at the edges of the scribed lines resulting in failure. I was not using etching primer. I will have a go with etching primer and the 2 bulb circuitry. Thank you so much for you video!
That makes sense, I've never tried to "cut" anything like that, I didn't even know it was possible. Yes, when I leave the charger on for over an hour, the bubbling does get pretty violent, plus the solution gets pretty hot.
Well I must say that was an education. I'm about to buy some reed valves from Hobbyking. And then it starts. All dimensions for a pulse jet will be taken off those valves. They're as cheap as chips and save me my preferred method of laser cutting. This is, as usual with me, a string-shoe approach, having no coin to speak of. Half the fun is building something with nothing... Now I've seen your method, it's certainly something to bear in mind for the future. Many thanks for sharing....
An easier, albeit more time consuming method of removing the the oxide, is to submerge the steel sheet in a pickling solution (weak acid). The easiest solution, is straight white vinegar. Great video, and a wonderful demonstration!
I have used that process before, it is very easy and safe. Your video quality is very good, just wish you would slow down the audio at the beginning, I am hard of hearing and when people talk fast I have a problem. Thanks for the idea.
I've been busy with my other channels (RCModelReviews and XJet) and thanks to the big revamp of TH-cam and Google+ I seem to have lost contact with this channel for the purposes of uploading and updating :-(
Nah, it's a channel I started a few years ago with a view to publishing some engineering stuff on but my focus has been on XJet and RCModelReviews since then.
Copper: No electrolysis, bath is 1 part of 30% HCl, 1part of 30% H2O2, 3parts of water or FeCl3 dissolved in distilled water (saturated solution at room temperature), for use heated up to ~40degC by putting the etching pot into a bath of hot tap water (make sure the tap water does not mix into the etching solution). The FeCl3 based bath is reusable. Aluminum: HCL+H2O2 as for copper, but more water (the reaction is faster, so to avoid overheating) Do all that in well ventilated areas!
Liked. I had a think while watching, a cheap laser engraver made from DVD-R drive bits might work wonders with the black paint (they won't do damn to the metal itself). Just to make it even an easier job.
On the other hand, small plasma cutters are cheap as dirt these days. I got mine with built in compressor for a grand Canadian. With how clean of a cut, the fact that it cuts pretty much anything (I swear it'll cut dirt if you don't mind eating tips using the internal start mode) and how cheap it is per cut, they're just SOOO good. I hear ya about the laser diode stuff though. I have a 1/4 watt unit I use for engraving and it'll mark metals with black paint, but just barely and you can pretty much rub it off with a finger.
thankyou very much. if it is truly a factor of about two and should only take half the time, then that could explain the excessive deterioration of metel. I left them in for 15 hours which apparently would be more like 30 instead of the suggested 20 hours if i were using 5 watt bulbs.
Careful, that mix of gases (H2 and O) is highly dangerous, if you have any sparks or sources of ignition. The energy it releases to revert back to water is about the amount which you have to put in to break down the water. But it happens in a very short time instead of the minutes, hours or days taken to produce the gases. It's also noisy and very hot.
That's great. Before I saw all the video I was wondering how I would dispose of the acid but when I saw that it was salt water used as an electrolytic this was great. I can use this to etch so many other things I absolute safety.
That would be a good method for making intake reeds for old 2-stroke stationary engines, like the Petter 'M' series etc., and crank-case valves for some of the big old Lister 4-stroke singles.
wow, i wonder, will this work with other steels? i guess it does. But this sounds like a great way to etch any part out of steel or even different materials!
I wonder if this process could be updated to use the UV film on the metal could be easier than painting and scratching. But your method is great very clever. A pulse jet is on my bucket list I wish you would revisit this subject
I etched printed circuit boards in a similar manner and I can tell you that higher currents can make ragged edges. Low current, long time, same electricity bill next month but smooth and precise edges. Just don't forget to check it out every once in a while or you'll find nothing left of it :)
@frew83 This was a while ago when I wrote this comment. I have been building all sorts of reed valves using this method. I could actually use this method on .010 inch spring still. I actually modified this procedure by adding more salt, and using hot water to dissolve the salt much faster and using a resistor. I use a stainless steel plate as my cathode plate. I could get them cut in 6 hours this way. Any kind of automotive primer will work. He mentioned self etch only.
I was checking for "Blue Tempered Spring Steel".006 thick 1095 grade . Fastenal sells a 6.0" X 50" piece of Precision brand material for $35.00. A guy on ebay sells them for about $9.00 each. You could make several for $9.00.
McMaster-Carr has it for $18.00. 6.0" X 50". You can also get a .050" or Like I did get a 0.100" thick 304 Stainless Steel plate. HobbyKing has the Reed valves for $1.99 for a pack of 5 reed valves. I ordered 100+ reed vales as I also had $29.00 in HK points. So the price went down more. I am still making my own reed Valves as I have .006", .008", .009", .010", .012" and .015" thick 1095 Spring Steel.
1 video in 12 years and still going strong. Genius.
rcmodelreviews or xjet , his other channels
That is one of the most clever DIY fabrication methods I've seen for copying an otherwise expensive part.
Thank you sir ...😻
Wow I'm working on a pulse jet for my college project, and this is a gold mine after searching for a month on youtube about pulse jet,
Can't believe this video came to my use after 11 years
Very clever. This technique has many uses apart from valves. Thanks for sharing!
About time. Thank you for this.
in before "I don't need valves on my pulse jet because I don't care about thrust or efficiency, I just want to make a loud noise."
First video I've seen in a while that actually blew my mind.
I am totally impressed. This opens a whole new world of fabrication for me. Thank you! JB
After being subscribed for years on the #RCModelReviews and the XJET channel I am glad I've found this channel too.
This etching technique is brilliant easy and cheap, thanks for sharing.
One of the most informative and excellently narrated videos I've ever come across! Keep it the work!
You've recruited another subscriber!
I just have to point out just how transformative and absolutely genius this technique is. Thank you so much for showing me something that will be useful in countless ways. I won’t need to waste money on paying someone to cut or me buy a laser-cutter or CNC. 🙏🏽
No words to describe how helpful of a tip that was, thank you very much indeed
Very clever to use etching to produce these. I just ordered a pulse jet engine and will be having fun mounting it on various RCs :)
Wow, what a pecision method to manipulate metal! Excellent video too, Thank You Sir.
What a blast from the past this is!
I made my first and only pulse jet 40 years ago, worked well until I bent it.
Electro etching was and still is a good cheap method of producing fiddly parts.
I also used to stencil etch markings on panels of projects and bespoke builds.
Was easier than going to the engravers - well cheaper anyway.
You sir have just enlightened my mind into a whole new world of possibilities!
dude you are a genius.. i wish i could stay with you and learn!
Thank you. I'm wanting to make replacement valves for my compressor. They are no longer available. You guys are very smart. Frank.
if only all youtube videos were so instructive and useful! Good work indeed. Many thnaks for sharing
Thank you for this excellent video. I make Tesla type turbines. I needed a way to make the disks easily. This beats all my speculative ideas hands down. I had thought of using plasma cutters, dies, lathes, mills, drills. Yeesh! This is fantastic and the detail is precisely faithful to the pattern Thank you for this excellent method discourse.
John Mahler
That was absolutely ingenious! Love it!
Simple and yet messy. I love it! Beats the crap out of ferric chloride and PCB boards.
Thats a beautiful method for making metal parts, thanks!!
Amazing! I'm going to try this right now. Not to make a reed valve but something for sure.
You sir, are brilliant. Like Lefty said the possibilities are endless!
I just pulled my pettal valves out of the solution after following this guy STEP BY STEP. when I pulled them out after only 15 hours (instead of the suggested 20, just to check on them) I found that they were already completly etched all the way through. In fact they were "over etched." the sides were completely jagged and the center hole was enlarged sizably. the only thing I think that i might have done different was use two 13 watt bulbs instead of two 5 watt bulbs.
this is a genius way of making perfection parts thanks for showing this i can use this technique on a lot of other parts for lots of my other hobbies as well.
I was looking for a way to make a planar spring for a free piston Stirling engine and this is the perfect way! Thanks! Only thing left is to find spring steel now...
Excellent video... the educational ones are in my opinion the best. Thank you.
This is amazing, I'd never thought of doing that very clever
What an awesome way to "cut" metal! Thanks!
That's great, simple and all you need is a DC to DC inverter in which you can adjust the voltage and current.
Outstanding video just for the content on electrochemical etching alone. Good job and well done, thanks for posting. :)
god bless you for this teaching video it is really useful for many projects
What a brilliant idea! Thank you for posting!
Thank you for being very specific in your instructions. I tried this method several times in the past and the paint lifted at the edges of the scribed lines resulting in failure. I was not using etching primer. I will have a go with etching primer and the 2 bulb circuitry. Thank you so much for you video!
That makes sense, I've never tried to "cut" anything like that, I didn't even know it was possible. Yes, when I leave the charger on for over an hour, the bubbling does get pretty violent, plus the solution gets pretty hot.
That's a very useful little idea I can think of some useful things to use that for on engines
Incredible!
I had read that the metal of the valves is a special alloy to resist the high temperatures.
Very ingenious, thank you for sharing.
Great and informative jd
I love your work shop Bruce.
10 man points for this video . simple but executive.
Well I must say that was an education. I'm about to buy some reed valves from Hobbyking. And then it starts. All dimensions for a pulse jet will be taken off those valves. They're as cheap as chips and save me my preferred method of laser cutting. This is, as usual with me, a string-shoe approach, having no coin to speak of. Half the fun is building something with nothing...
Now I've seen your method, it's certainly something to bear in mind for the future. Many thanks for sharing....
That was awesome, I have no use for it but it was still worth watching.
excellent! nice videos and really clear speech, hugs from argentina!
That is Amazing!!!
This will make life a lot easier when doing precise cuts in hardened conductive Plates !!!
Thanks 4 Sharing!!!
You Are The Man !!!
you are a very smart man and i do like your work .
Really amazing. Thank you for sharing this technique, it will be very useful in further projects to me
An easier, albeit more time consuming method of removing the the oxide, is to submerge the steel sheet in a pickling solution (weak acid). The easiest solution, is straight white vinegar. Great video, and a wonderful demonstration!
Won't that take a couple or three weeks to etch though?
He's talking about just to clean the steel. To take that thin oxide layer off would only be like a day.
I have used that process before, it is very easy and safe. Your video quality is very good, just wish you would slow down the audio at the beginning, I am hard of hearing and when people talk fast I have a problem. Thanks for the idea.
I really enjoyed that.. Haven't got anything i need to cut out of metal right now but by golly I'm going to try this when I do! :D
Awesome Video! People helping people! Thanks!
That is absolutely brilliant...........
Great to know that my hho generator can etch out parts for me. It seems obvious in retrospect, but I just never thought of it. Thanks!
Good video. You're a natural narrator. When are you going to post other videos?
I've been busy with my other channels (RCModelReviews and XJet) and thanks to the big revamp of TH-cam and Google+ I seem to have lost contact with this channel for the purposes of uploading and updating :-(
*****
That's too bad. I'll check out your other channels, though.
This video was stolen from the channel xjet which is made by another channel named RCModelReviews.
Nah, it's a channel I started a few years ago with a view to publishing some engineering stuff on but my focus has been on XJet and RCModelReviews since then.
***** Oh well sorry then, Its just so common on youtube these days.
Excellent video, Bruce!
Thank you.
Copper: No electrolysis, bath is 1 part of 30% HCl, 1part of 30% H2O2, 3parts of water
or
FeCl3 dissolved in distilled water (saturated solution at room temperature), for use heated up to ~40degC by putting the etching pot into a bath of hot tap water (make sure the tap water does not mix into the etching solution). The FeCl3 based bath is reusable.
Aluminum: HCL+H2O2 as for copper, but more water (the reaction is faster, so to avoid overheating)
Do all that in well ventilated areas!
Liked. I had a think while watching, a cheap laser engraver made from DVD-R drive bits might work wonders with the black paint (they won't do damn to the metal itself). Just to make it even an easier job.
On the other hand, small plasma cutters are cheap as dirt these days. I got mine with built in compressor for a grand Canadian. With how clean of a cut, the fact that it cuts pretty much anything (I swear it'll cut dirt if you don't mind eating tips using the internal start mode) and how cheap it is per cut, they're just SOOO good. I hear ya about the laser diode stuff though. I have a 1/4 watt unit I use for engraving and it'll mark metals with black paint, but just barely and you can pretty much rub it off with a finger.
Oh, I didn't mean cutting the metal directly, but to make etching patterns using black paint as electrolyte barrier.
Ah, I gotcha. :)
Very cool and informative.
thank you for a wonderful idea and money saver.
Very interesting solution
Ultra level metal cutting technique
Awesome! I need to try this!
Fair dinkum cobber...this is knowledge well worth having.
Now that was clever,,,,and simple.
Muy interesante, gracias por bañarnos con buenas ideas. Muy didáctica la explicación. Se agradece la buena disposición del genio del video.
Clever! 5 min and i learnt something new
Great video... I cannot wait to make my first PJ
thankyou very much. if it is truly a factor of about two and should only take half the time, then that could explain the excessive deterioration of metel. I left them in for 15 hours which apparently would be more like 30 instead of the suggested 20 hours if i were using 5 watt bulbs.
That is awesome,as always! Think I'm gonna try it to make me some HHO cell plates!
Careful, that mix of gases (H2 and O) is highly dangerous, if you have any sparks or sources of ignition. The energy it releases to revert back to water is about the amount which you have to put in to break down the water. But it happens in a very short time instead of the minutes, hours or days taken to produce the gases. It's also noisy and very hot.
The FeCl3 you may buy ready made as "PCB etch solution" in electronic component stores, I would recommend this.
That is really cool!
That's great. Before I saw all the video I was wondering how I would dispose of the acid but when I saw that it was salt water used as an electrolytic this was great. I can use this to etch so many other things I absolute safety.
That would be a good method for making intake reeds for old 2-stroke stationary engines, like the Petter 'M' series etc., and crank-case valves for some of the big old Lister 4-stroke singles.
excellent video. Hi from Perth.
Great stuff Larry!
Thank you for explanation
Brilliant bit of creative engineering! plus Australia T-Shirt! :-P
All right !!!!
Cool as hell, many many thanks for a great video.
Excellent skills, thanks for the vid!
Thank you Larry! Some new technick for me! Interresting and good stuff!
Great video! All that's missing is the white radiation suit and wild white hair ala Doc Brown! :)
Thanks! Very helpful!
Good tutorial.
wow, i wonder, will this work with other steels? i guess it does. But this sounds like a great way to etch any part out of steel or even different materials!
Very good thanx for sharing!!!
very useful, why doesn't the salt begin to eat away at the exposed edges ie shrinking the valve
Amigo gracias por compartir saludos desde México!!!!!
I wonder if this process could be updated to use the UV film on the metal could be easier than painting and scratching. But your method is great very clever. A pulse jet is on my bucket list I wish you would revisit this subject
This guy is awesome, great video, great information!
More interesting projects Bruce
Thank you for your help
Awesome wish I knew how to do this along time ago
How thick is the naterial of the metal sheet? Great video btw!
nice video sir.
That , is fantastic .
Really cool
I etched printed circuit boards in a similar manner and I can tell you that higher currents can make ragged edges. Low current, long time, same electricity bill next month but smooth and precise edges.
Just don't forget to check it out every once in a while or you'll find nothing left of it :)
@frew83 This was a while ago when I wrote this comment. I have been building all sorts of reed valves using this method. I could actually use this method on .010 inch spring still. I actually modified this procedure by adding more salt, and using hot water to dissolve the salt much faster and using a resistor. I use a stainless steel plate as my cathode plate. I could get them cut in 6 hours this way. Any kind of automotive primer will work. He mentioned self etch only.
I was checking for "Blue Tempered Spring Steel".006 thick 1095 grade . Fastenal sells a 6.0" X 50" piece of Precision brand material for $35.00. A guy on ebay sells them for about $9.00 each. You could make several for $9.00.
McMaster-Carr has it for $18.00. 6.0" X 50". You can also get a .050" or Like I did get a 0.100" thick 304 Stainless Steel plate. HobbyKing has the Reed valves for $1.99 for a pack of 5 reed valves. I ordered 100+ reed vales as I also had $29.00 in HK points. So the price went down more. I am still making my own reed Valves as I have .006", .008", .009", .010", .012" and .015" thick 1095 Spring Steel.
Very interesting and very well presented, Thank you for sharing. :)