How do I keep my pads clean and usable for longer?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
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Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructuremarine.com/fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Lee - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Nice thanks for posting
Fa sho! Anytime. Thanks for say'n "hi."
The spur is ok but you can get them cleaner by washing them by hand with wool liqud wash in a bowl with warm water then spin them dry with the machine, they come up like new. Just my preference. Keep up the good work Lee
Cleaner but for what? What purpose? I don't leave scratches with my pads and I'm not performing surgery so, a spur is fine. These are boats not ferarri paint.
I get that they're cleaner but I haven't found a need to go cleaner than I generally get them with a spur.
Just different opinions.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood we do a lot of Malibu ski boats and the owners are pretty fussy, we also do cars and motorhomes so thats why i like to get all the hard bits out. It depend what you're doing.
Hey, sorry. Don't get me wrong. If I have a project that needs the luv, I devote a few pads, just to that boat. They're my best and usually newest if not brand new.
What I'm saying or trying to get you or rather, most boaters wanting to try buffing a boat or a detailer bouncing boat to boat like a bee hunting flowers, unless they have the time and patience to wash/dry and condition the pads (we both know, most don't) then a spur (when the pad dries) cleans well enough to deliver swirl-free and scratch-free results. Sometimes I cheat by using foam, I know. As a fellow detailer, I didn't want to gloss over that but prior to me ever using a random orbital or a rotary foam pad, my crew and I finished many large boats with just pads and a spur. It's efficient. The best? No.
For paint or a new-finish boat, I always use a good clean pad for every step and clean between products to make sure I'm not causing more problems than I'm solving. In my life of buffing, I either got new yachts or trashed-out towables. We used to wash them, dozens at a time but it cuts the life of the pad so much and takes time. I want your average "dude" to deal with focusing on the task at-hand and not try to be surgical about the whole thing.
That's for us to play with if we have the budget and tune to perfect every step.
Again, I apologize. I'm 2 beers into midnight. Not really arguing with you, more defending the choice.
Peaces,
Lee
Those dewalt buffers are so much louder and heavier than the makita. I have and use both, I guess I like the makita because it was what I learned with.
No problem there. I used to like the porter cable (when German made, before SBD*, Dewalt bought them, )
I've used the new makita and found it heavier than the Dewalt. Not as loud for sure but it also died in the first month. To be fair, the lady who gave it to me said she'd dropped it once. The old Dewalt was a monster. Uncontrollable for most beginners. Heavy but could grind for weeks straight on a big girl. I'd say this about the weight: At the time, it was a tradeoff made for a more robust unit. A well-balanced weight that's over a pound more however, when the Makita is glowing hot.. (you know what I mean) this new DeWalt is hot but keeps on going. I haven't "killed" one in years and you've seen what I do with them. I'm a fan and my 1st buffer was a borrowed Makita and a close relative of mine, did testing for Makita power tools. In the late 70's, early 80's, he had a battery operated.. Pick a power tool. An uncle of mine was a sales executive with them. I was a fan
These machines you see me running are from 2017 and 2019 and still grind on the daily just fine for me. That's what I wanted when I submitted my designs for this buffer. I'm happy.
That being said, whatever tool you're comfortable with is a better tool than the newest or most expensive. Ask any master of their trade if their tools are the best, they'll say (most likely) "they work for me." I mean it, if you like the blue beast over the yella fella, I gotcha. Good vibes.
(Just remembered)
I liked the weight of the previous makita and how smooth they were to run. Good times
Oh, and the bag they came in was always sought by the crew. Nice touch.
Lee
Do you work about contamination of colors. Like cutting a blue boat with super, fluffing it and then using the same pad on a white boat.
Boat dependant but yes if it's bad (leaves too much color behind, mask off sections) Compound will usually remove the transfered color from white-ish gelcoat.
That makes sense thank you for the reply
Anytime.
Lee, you must read minds. Was just looking to see if you had a video on this. I had submerged wool pads in buckets after hitting them with spray9 but they didn't seem to get all that clean anyway and they take forever to dry out!
I used to wash them too. I'm happier now. Hope this helped.
Lee
Hey Lee, great post question :
How can you tell when to replace your pads?
V
If they can't be fluffed up, time for some new ones.
Cheers Lee look how many folks you have helped, plus mage video you should get 100% viewer retention on lol
Keep the videos coming buddy your help loads of folks on here.
I try brother, I try. Thanks!
Lee
Soo, when is a pad “done” in your opinion?
I figure one pad per average 22 to 27 ft boat. Just a “cost of supplies” . I found trying to use every last bit puts in more swirls, takes longer and I work harder.
How about a pad for hard-grinding on 4-6 and for daily buffing, months?
When I see the rib or they're thicker around the middle. Or, when they flatten out and can't be fluffed up again, then I will toss them.
Lee
I'm on my 4th oxidized boat, 3 of which were Cobalts. One pad. Then, there's boats that eat a pad and a half using Super-Duty like you're trying to start a fire with it.
Just variables you can never predict
Lee
I really don't want to be a wet rag on the fire of fun, and I know you have the disclaimer at the end of the about section, but I am concerned about you and me breathing the dust that flies when spurring wool pads. I'm pretty sure the 3M products have "No Silicates" on the bottle. I suppose, if you use the product the way you're supposed to, the grit would be broken down but maybe finer isn't better when it comes to being lodged in your lung tissue. I feel like I should wear a mask when spurring or at the very least make sure the wind is blowing (if there is any) away from me. On the other hand, "You apes wanna live forever!?!" Cheers!
Good reminder. For some perspective: We grew up playing outside, never wore seat belts, rode bikes without helmets, drank from a hose and from streams, sat in a car while both parents smoked in the front seat, never wore earplugs, goggles, masks, or gloves. 😂
@@therosses5 I hope you're not implying that breathing in second hand smoke is wise, that being in a car accident without a seatbelt on is preferred, that taking a drink directly from a stream is good advise, that hearing loss isn't a problem, that cranial injuries from falls at speed are unlikely, that breathing in particulates cause no adverse health effects, or that protecting your eyesight is for wimps?
Werd!
I think what he's saying is; we're going to die from something. We just (as older folks have learned) try to be careful and worry less about what exactly it'll be. I don't think he was being rude, more funnily, reminding us all that "back in the day" stuff was rougher than it is today and you dealt with it without the fuss and bother of making sure all is OSHA compliant (as a sole proprietorship NOT with regard to employees.
You're not wrong. I live by my sword, hence, my death will be by its hand. I hate, HATE doing this job in a mask.
I hold my breath, close my eyes and avoid ingesting as much of this as I can but I'm not about to change anything I do to be more precautious than I am. You're correct that I do have a disclaimer but most hardly read/adhere to stuff like that in this industry.
It's the filterless cigarettes of my world.
I'll note that after almost 20 years at this, my vision is 20/20 and my hearing startles folks (still sharp as a dog)
I want people to be safe but if you're doing this on a personal boat, once or twice a year, you can survive some dust and wool fibers. They aren't good for you but have you seen what people eat nowadays?!
Peace,
Lee