I've recently had BT OPENREACH (courtesy of TalkTalk) install one of these mk4 vdsl faceplates however whenever I receive or make an outgoing call on my landline my fibre broadband connection drops out. Am I missing something simple here? Talk talk want to charge me £65 for BT Openreach to visit my home but don't see why I should pay it as they've previously installed this mk4 vdsl faceplate that's causing my connection issues 😡😡
If you look the components leads are pushed into slots in the same way as the the solid wires in the IDC connections are, so assuming they've got the geometry and sizing right they should be just as good a gas tight connection. Only problem that I can think of is if a component supplier starts using plated steel leads.
Yes they are like little IDC slots so it must be fine unless the tolerances change with the components. I wonder if this has been done for ease of assembly/cheapness or if the solder and circuit somehow can cause issues.
Hey Vince, would hard-wiring the adsl/vdsl cable to the Mk4 cause any sort of disadvantage compared to using the rj45 socket at the front? I'm just wondering if it would still filter the same, with regards to the Rein filtration. The reason I'm obsessing over this is its so much neater hard wiring it for aesthetic purposes. Many thanks :)
Hi, no it will not cause any disadvantage. You could argue that the connection will be better because the IDC connection (Cam lock connection) will be a better connection than a contact of a plug on a contact in a socket. The IDC connection will go through the same filtering as the front RJ45 socket. Cheers Vince
My Mate VINCE thanks for getting back to me :) I was just wondering, as I changed my cabling to solid cat 6, with rj12 at the modem end and since I've had stability issues for the last 24 hours, I'm guessing it just due to the few disconnections I had doing the 'upgrade' just settling down/'training' again? I'm paranoid of my own work I've done basically, the IDC can be reused/reseated right? Thanks again :D
I'm very surprised that there's no actual PCB, and even more surprised that the components are not soldered (or even spot welded) into position. From a resistance point of view, yes there is a larger area, but having the 'tracks' close like that does raise a possibility of stray capacitance - something that is not really desirable!
Hey m8 i have just bought one of your Cat6 ADSL cables from ebay and some Cat6 patch cables :). now what i want to do is use Cat6 cable from the box on my wall outside to my Master Socket inside. Can you maybe do a video on this or advise me the correct cable to buy, i currently have a white and orange pair going to my master socket from the box outside, they are basically opposite each other just the thickness of the wall separates them so i only need a metre of cable but am not sure which to use. The outside box is a little grey box is it ok for me to open it or will BT smack my arse if i do. Thanx in advance.
Hi, it would be best to leave that cable like it is. It sounds like dropwire cable and it is pure copper and remember that the whole network from the telephone exchange (or the street cabinet if on Infinity) to your house is normal twisted pair cable so changing that last 1m or 0.5m to CAT6 is not going to make any difference. Also if BT come out in the future they will know that it has been tampered with. CAT6 is great cable and works fine on telephone lines but in your setup I don't think it is worth the hassle.
Hi, that cable is external grade white cable. It uses the same colour code as dropwire cable but it cannot be run overhead from telegraph pole to pole. It is still good cable, pure copper and nice and strong, that cable will last a lifetime (nearly!!!!!!!). No need to change that.
Ok i will leave that, got your ADSL cable today (only orderd yesterday ) just pluged it in and i can say that my ping is now 11ms as before was 16 and feels a lot shrper in general.
I don't know. I wouldn't say they are more reliable because I think ( I may be wrong) that the circuit board and solder is a better job than these push fit fixings but maybe the large silver tracks provide a better flow for the signal compared to the older thinner conductive tracks on the printed circuit boards of the previous NTE5A masters. A couple of people have mentioned a better download speed over on another video but maybe they were replacing very old master sockets so I don't know yet if there is any 'real world' difference between this new NTE5c and the latest version of the NTE5a from the last 2-3 years. Cheers Vince
ok maybe, had road works on the street this week laying down something to everyone's property, hoping it was openreach putting new cables in. i, in a new property anyway and having the mk3 socket on my wall with the white modem aswel. bt keep telling me i dont need it but i prefer ethernet to the homehub.
+My Mate Vince It's for physical strength. On a PCB the copper track is supported by the substrate but with this type of construction the connection has to support itself and also be strong enough to allow assembly. I'm guessing the metal used is plated brass.
Thanks Graham, that makes sense about the strength. BTW I just scrapped the silver metal board/track type thing and after scrapping for some time it did show a gold/brass colour underneath so it does look well made.
In short, he doesn't know, and it's abundantly clear from his articulation that he is no electronics engineer, but I am, so I'll say this - *this design is SHITE* - PCBs are of course better, the *leads are soldered* - end of.
Hi +My Mate Vince. Whats your thoughts on wiring a secondary (for extension purposes) NTE5C + Mk4 to a master NTE5C + Mk4 via the legal A B data extension connections rather than extending the filtered telephone and unfiltered data signals (wiring) separately? It seems this is plausible right? The secondary unit (having the front/allowable AB from master passed to the main AB on secondary) would then filter the voice and data. It seems this would work and avoid the need for two separate wirings for voice and data...do you agree? If this works my other concern would be that the signal has passed through 2 rein filters (one at master and one at secondary), would this degrade/slow speed of the data at all?
I've done this. Taking the extension cable from the A and B connectors on the back of the Master Socket front plate, to the back plate A and B connectors of the second Master Socket. The cascading of the REIN filters doesn't seem to bother the internet connection, I'm getting 38Mb/s on a 40Mb/s FTTC line (9 Mb/s up) 350 metres from the Cabinet. What I have done since is to snip one leg of the second 'out of service' resistor R6 (470k) on the SLAVE's Mk4 board. It doesn't do much in-circuit, but for Openreach testing purposes it's required. The drawback is aligning the two sets of pins to reinsert the cover, which is a PAIN. Do it in plenty of daylight and make a second cup of tea. You'll need it. Why have I bothered? I have a home office where the master socket is in a narrow hallway with only a single phone plugged in, and the 'slave' master is in the office 40 metres away with internet and office phone, (originally with BT's Callsign - being withdrawn from Sept 2022)
Being slightly pedantic with you, so apologies in advance! The A wire does connect to terminal number 5, the bell wire to terminal number 3, and B wire to terminal number 2, but this is the slight rub:- The pin numbers of the BT socket (where the phone is plugged into) are numbered 1-6 from left to right looking from the front, BUT pin 1 is actually fed from connection 6, pin 2 from connection 5 (A wire), pin 3 from connection 4, pin 4 from connection 3 (bell wire), pin 5 from connection 2 (B wire), and pin 6 from connection 1. In short, think of the number 7; pin is fed from connection . That's why the numbers on the extension connection go in reverse order 5, 3, 2 from left to right.
Hi, no problem. But if you Google it you will see 2 different standards which are reversed but if you 'bell out' a socket you will see it is the reverse of what you mentioned so from the front of the socket the left hand pin is linked to terminal 6 and then the right hand pin is linked terminal 1. I have just double checked now with a multi meter and this is the correct. That is why the pin configuration is confusing when one of the standards shows pin 1 on a BT plug as the one further away from the latch but it should be the nearest one to the latch to match the terminals on the socket. I don't know the background story as to why it is different, I presume it is to do with other countries and the 8p8c plug and the 6p4c plug with the pin 1 on the left hand side. Thanks Vince
My Mate VINCE Then I'll have to remember to use a multimeter if I ever fit an NTE5C - I've always worked on 2 on the punch down is 5 on the BT plug. They look like a pain in the anal cavity!
As someone who had an NTE 5A die due to damp, I'm disappointed by the lack of soldering for the capacitor etc in the 5C. I'd have thought those friction connections would be susceptible to corrosion if the 5C has the misfortune to be on a damp wall.
Hi, personally I think the older version are stronger and easier to work with BUT I presume BT think they are better and they know what products are in the pipeline so maybe over the next 5- 10 years we will all need this version.
@@Mymatevince It'll be interesting to find out what device the IPS / Openreach come up with and where they will need to be plugged in when PSTN is switched off in 2025.
For £13 on Ebay I thought this was worth a go . My son was insistent that the old Maplin "screw type" Line Jack unit one was now well out of date. The new one arrived today . By 6pm I was ready to give up with it as there were just too many snags and difficulties with the extension cam lock on the face plate for the telephone extensions. It was the last straw ." Its coming out tomorrow" I said to him "its just **** . ." I said this because after several attempts on the front plate we always got only one of the 2 extensions working and the Cam Lock , I thought , was possibly wearing out after all these attempts as the results got worse . I gave up. A change of method then emerged My son persisted . This time he asked me to cut off the ends of the 4 extension cable wires to expose a bit of wire on the end of each cable . These he then inserted , not into the 2 hole "cam lock set up" at the front but into metal connectors at the rear of this lock and he then put the cam lock down once these wires were in position.It worked . The internet is now reinstated and the telephone and extensions! Main points:- 1) No difficulty with the main Cam lock on the Master Socket 2) The 2 extension sockets either side of the master needed the plaster chipping out and new cable was used to connect them up . I will not be plastering it up again any time soon however as I want to see if it lasts. 3) Horrible grey insulation tape was used to secure the front plate to the Master . It does the job . 4) Bare wires were used for the extensions as described above. 5) My son is urging me look look immediately at the increase in internet speed (this is why he wanted it done and persisted with it after I had deemed it a failure ) Time will tell if this is a permanent solution or if it can be improved on.
Vince, wouldn't it be a bad idea to extend the socket using the red terminal as it would increase analogue line length, which could increase attenuation? I thought with VDSL you really wanted to get the shortest line to the cabinet possible.
ADSL signals are RF - so you would surely EXPECT low level readings from this unless there is no Broadband service on the line. I see no reason at all why anything would be hidden - but for the price of about £10 you can buy yourself one and carefully melt away any plastic that you think might have hidden electronics in. I think all you will achieve is a slightly lower bank balance, but if you are troubled by it at all, then a cheap way to put your mind at rest. Depending on whether you have ADSL (not common now), ADSL2, VDSL or VDSL2, you can have anything from 25Kh as a lower end and then around 1.1 MHz to around 30MHz at the higher end - and even higher if you factor in weak harmonics. All of this will cheerfully give your EMF meter a bit of a jolly if it is sensitive enough - so will your TV and Radio due to thinks like IFs (Intermediate Frequency) and so on. Even receivers "kind of transmit" when it comes to RF noise. In fact it is due to this fact that the OLD CRT TV's with their timebase used to provide a detectable signal either for spying or for a "BBC Detector Van". Most of them were empty of everything other than a stove and a kettle, but one or two really did have what I think was called at the time a Tempest Receiver. It is not "mythical" or "secret" - you can make one from an old LW/MW radio and a slightly modified CRT based TV set. You basically use the output from the radio (once you have tuned it to the target sets timebase) and THIS provides (via the audio output / amplifier) the timebase you need for your tempest receiver. Any colour signals are lost and IIRC, the image is also a negative unless you compensate for it.. Amazingly, it will work on some modern screen too - you might find this interesting..... th-cam.com/video/BpNP9b3aIfY/w-d-xo.html
Hi Vince... In the video you said you can't sell these, and I understand. For those of us who don't mind being a bit naughty, what's a good solution for people who are happy to remove all of the BT socket stuff and just have a nice slimline socket setup? Presumably there's a decent quality 3rd party socket that does filtering, surge protection, bell wire isolation etc without sticking 2 inches off the wall? If anyone could suggest something decent, I'm guessing it's going to be you... ;)
Hi Rob, I agree they are ugly especially if the rest of the house has been done with black nickel flat plates etc. As far as I know I have not seen any 3rd party sockets that have the bell wire filter. They all have the standard mastering components but nothing specialised (bell wire filter) like the newer sockets and none of the ADSL/VDSL faceplates are going to fit onto the chrome/nickel sockets. I presume the manufacturers of these kind of sockets are not interested because of the small market. Thanks Vince
You made an awful hash of explaining what is going on. I speak from 43yrs experience in BT, wired a few installations and re-hashed my own installation as technology moves on. KISS would have been the route to go down. There is no need to do a breakdown of the iternals!
"Saves you having to take it apart anyway!" 😂😂😂I'm here because I did take it apart and wanted to understand it, this definitely helped.
That is a great video, thank you very much making it. I now understand so much better how all the connections work and interact.
Is it worth upgrading from the Mk3 VDSL faceplate? Will there be any improvement in speed?
Superb stuff, very clear and very well explained, thankyou !!
No PCB? What a time to be alive
I've recently had BT OPENREACH (courtesy of TalkTalk) install one of these mk4 vdsl faceplates however whenever I receive or make an outgoing call on my landline my fibre broadband connection drops out. Am I missing something simple here? Talk talk want to charge me £65 for BT Openreach to visit my home but don't see why I should pay it as they've previously installed this mk4 vdsl faceplate that's causing my connection issues 😡😡
Would have been good to see a MK1, 2 and 3 breakdown on VDSL filters :D
If you look the components leads are pushed into slots in the same way as the the solid wires in the IDC connections are, so assuming they've got the geometry and sizing right they should be just as good a gas tight connection. Only problem that I can think of is if a component supplier starts using plated steel leads.
Yes they are like little IDC slots so it must be fine unless the tolerances change with the components. I wonder if this has been done for ease of assembly/cheapness or if the solder and circuit somehow can cause issues.
+My Mate Vince Almost certain it'll have been done purely for cost reasons. I'm surprised they've dumped the spark gap after all these years.
Probably penny pinching! The spark gap was dumped a few years ago on the latest NTE5A socket, apparently it caused issues on VDSL lines.
Graham Langley VDSL doesn't really like spark gaps or protection diodes across the AB terminals, even though they did have a valid purpose!
Hi Vince, could you show us how to install a third party router if it's possible. And an WAP
Hi, I could do a video on a WAP but I haven't got any spare routers. I will add the WAP video to the list.
Thanks.
Hey Vince, would hard-wiring the adsl/vdsl cable to the Mk4 cause any sort of disadvantage compared to using the rj45 socket at the front?
I'm just wondering if it would still filter the same, with regards to the Rein filtration.
The reason I'm obsessing over this is its so much neater hard wiring it for aesthetic purposes.
Many thanks :)
Hi, no it will not cause any disadvantage. You could argue that the connection will be better because the IDC connection (Cam lock connection) will be a better connection than a contact of a plug on a contact in a socket. The IDC connection will go through the same filtering as the front RJ45 socket.
Cheers Vince
My Mate VINCE thanks for getting back to me :)
I was just wondering, as I changed my cabling to solid cat 6, with rj12 at the modem end and since I've had stability issues for the last 24 hours, I'm guessing it just due to the few disconnections I had doing the 'upgrade' just settling down/'training' again?
I'm paranoid of my own work I've done basically, the IDC can be reused/reseated right?
Thanks again :D
I'm very surprised that there's no actual PCB, and even more surprised that the components are not soldered (or even spot welded) into position.
From a resistance point of view, yes there is a larger area, but having the 'tracks' close like that does raise a possibility of stray capacitance - something that is not really desirable!
Hey m8 i have just bought one of your Cat6 ADSL cables from ebay and some Cat6 patch cables :). now what i want to do is use Cat6 cable from the box on my wall outside to my Master Socket inside. Can you maybe do a video on this or advise me the correct cable to buy, i currently have a white and orange pair going to my master socket from the box outside, they are basically opposite each other just the thickness of the wall separates them so i only need a metre of cable but am not sure which to use. The outside box is a little grey box is it ok for me to open it or will BT smack my arse if i do. Thanx in advance.
Hi, it would be best to leave that cable like it is. It sounds like dropwire cable and it is pure copper and remember that the whole network from the telephone exchange (or the street cabinet if on Infinity) to your house is normal twisted pair cable so changing that last 1m or 0.5m to CAT6 is not going to make any difference. Also if BT come out in the future they will know that it has been tampered with. CAT6 is great cable and works fine on telephone lines but in your setup I don't think it is worth the hassle.
Thanx for the reply heres a pic just to clarify imgur.com/DouZvEl
Hi, that cable is external grade white cable. It uses the same colour code as dropwire cable but it cannot be run overhead from telegraph pole to pole. It is still good cable, pure copper and nice and strong, that cable will last a lifetime (nearly!!!!!!!). No need to change that.
Ok i will leave that, got your ADSL cable today (only orderd yesterday ) just pluged it in and i can say that my ping is now 11ms as before was 16 and feels a lot shrper in general.
Excellent.
is there any advantage to these new sockets? more speed in the future maybe? or just better reliability and latency/
I don't know. I wouldn't say they are more reliable because I think ( I may be wrong) that the circuit board and solder is a better job than these push fit fixings but maybe the large silver tracks provide a better flow for the signal compared to the older thinner conductive tracks on the printed circuit boards of the previous NTE5A masters.
A couple of people have mentioned a better download speed over on another video but maybe they were replacing very old master sockets so I don't know yet if there is any 'real world' difference between this new NTE5c and the latest version of the NTE5a from the last 2-3 years.
Cheers Vince
ok maybe, had road works on the street this week laying down something to everyone's property, hoping it was openreach putting new cables in. i, in a new property anyway and having the mk3 socket on my wall with the white modem aswel. bt keep telling me i dont need it but i prefer ethernet to the homehub.
+My Mate Vince It's for physical strength. On a PCB the copper track is supported by the substrate but with this type of construction the connection has to support itself and also be strong enough to allow assembly. I'm guessing the metal used is plated brass.
Thanks Graham, that makes sense about the strength. BTW I just scrapped the silver metal board/track type thing and after scrapping for some time it did show a gold/brass colour underneath so it does look well made.
In short, he doesn't know, and it's abundantly clear from his articulation that he is no electronics engineer, but I am, so I'll say this - *this design is SHITE* - PCBs are of course better, the *leads are soldered* - end of.
Hi +My Mate Vince. Whats your thoughts on wiring a secondary (for extension purposes) NTE5C + Mk4 to a master NTE5C + Mk4 via the legal A B data extension connections rather than extending the filtered telephone and unfiltered data signals (wiring) separately? It seems this is plausible right? The secondary unit (having the front/allowable AB from master passed to the main AB on secondary) would then filter the voice and data. It seems this would work and avoid the need for two separate wirings for voice and data...do you agree? If this works my other concern would be that the signal has passed through 2 rein filters (one at master and one at secondary), would this degrade/slow speed of the data at all?
I've done this. Taking the extension cable from the A and B connectors on the back of the Master Socket front plate, to the back plate A and B connectors of the second Master Socket. The cascading of the REIN filters doesn't seem to bother the internet connection, I'm getting 38Mb/s on a 40Mb/s FTTC line (9 Mb/s up) 350 metres from the Cabinet.
What I have done since is to snip one leg of the second 'out of service' resistor R6 (470k) on the SLAVE's Mk4 board. It doesn't do much in-circuit, but for Openreach testing purposes it's required.
The drawback is aligning the two sets of pins to reinsert the cover, which is a PAIN. Do it in plenty of daylight and make a second cup of tea. You'll need it.
Why have I bothered? I have a home office where the master socket is in a narrow hallway with only a single phone plugged in, and the 'slave' master is in the office 40 metres away with internet and office phone, (originally with BT's Callsign - being withdrawn from Sept 2022)
Being slightly pedantic with you, so apologies in advance!
The A wire does connect to terminal number 5, the bell wire to terminal number 3, and B wire to terminal number 2, but this is the slight rub:-
The pin numbers of the BT socket (where the phone is plugged into) are numbered 1-6 from left to right looking from the front, BUT pin 1 is actually fed from connection 6, pin 2 from connection 5 (A wire), pin 3 from connection 4, pin 4 from connection 3 (bell wire), pin 5 from connection 2 (B wire), and pin 6 from connection 1.
In short, think of the number 7; pin is fed from connection .
That's why the numbers on the extension connection go in reverse order 5, 3, 2 from left to right.
Hi, no problem. But if you Google it you will see 2 different standards which are reversed but if you 'bell out' a socket you will see it is the reverse of what you mentioned so from the front of the socket the left hand pin is linked to terminal 6 and then the right hand pin is linked terminal 1. I have just double checked now with a multi meter and this is the correct. That is why the pin configuration is confusing when one of the standards shows pin 1 on a BT plug as the one further away from the latch but it should be the nearest one to the latch to match the terminals on the socket. I don't know the background story as to why it is different, I presume it is to do with other countries and the 8p8c plug and the 6p4c plug with the pin 1 on the left hand side.
Thanks Vince
My Mate VINCE Then I'll have to remember to use a multimeter if I ever fit an NTE5C - I've always worked on 2 on the punch down is 5 on the BT plug. They look like a pain in the anal cavity!
As someone who had an NTE 5A die due to damp, I'm disappointed by the lack of soldering for the capacitor etc in the 5C. I'd have thought those friction connections would be susceptible to corrosion if the 5C has the misfortune to be on a damp wall.
Vince,overall do you think these sockets are better than the last type.
Hi, personally I think the older version are stronger and easier to work with BUT I presume BT think they are better and they know what products are in the pipeline so maybe over the next 5- 10 years we will all need this version.
@@Mymatevince It'll be interesting to find out what device the IPS / Openreach come up with and where they will need to be plugged in when PSTN is switched off in 2025.
For £13 on Ebay I thought this was worth a go . My son was insistent that the old Maplin "screw type" Line Jack unit one was now well out of date. The new one arrived today . By 6pm I was ready to give up with it as there were just too many snags and difficulties with the extension cam lock on the face plate for the telephone extensions. It was the last straw ." Its coming out tomorrow" I said to him "its just **** . ." I said this because after several attempts on the front plate we always got only one of the 2 extensions working and the Cam Lock , I thought , was possibly wearing out after all these attempts as the results got worse . I gave up. A change of method then emerged My son persisted . This time he asked me to cut off the ends of the 4 extension cable wires to expose a bit of wire on the end of each cable . These he then inserted , not into the 2 hole "cam lock set up" at the front but into metal connectors at the rear of this lock and he then put the cam lock down once these wires were in position.It worked . The internet is now reinstated and the telephone and extensions!
Main points:-
1) No difficulty with the main Cam lock on the Master Socket
2) The 2 extension sockets either side of the master needed the plaster chipping out and new cable was used to connect them up . I will not be plastering it up again any time soon however as I want to see if it lasts.
3) Horrible grey insulation tape was used to secure the front plate to the Master . It does the job .
4) Bare wires were used for the extensions as described above.
5) My son is urging me look look immediately at the increase in internet speed (this is why he wanted it done and persisted with it after I had deemed it a failure )
Time will tell if this is a permanent solution or if it can be improved on.
Vince, wouldn't it be a bad idea to extend the socket using the red terminal as it would increase analogue line length, which could increase attenuation? I thought with VDSL you really wanted to get the shortest line to the cabinet possible.
Do you still have your eBay shop?
I got a low reading of othis with my EMF reader so maybe there is something hidden in it
ADSL signals are RF - so you would surely EXPECT low level readings from this unless there is no Broadband service on the line. I see no reason at all why anything would be hidden - but for the price of about £10 you can buy yourself one and carefully melt away any plastic that you think might have hidden electronics in.
I think all you will achieve is a slightly lower bank balance, but if you are troubled by it at all, then a cheap way to put your mind at rest.
Depending on whether you have ADSL (not common now), ADSL2, VDSL or VDSL2, you can have anything from 25Kh as a lower end and then around 1.1 MHz to around 30MHz at the higher end - and even higher if you factor in weak harmonics.
All of this will cheerfully give your EMF meter a bit of a jolly if it is sensitive enough - so will your TV and Radio due to thinks like IFs (Intermediate Frequency) and so on. Even receivers "kind of transmit" when it comes to RF noise. In fact it is due to this fact that the OLD CRT TV's with their timebase used to provide a detectable signal either for spying or for a "BBC Detector Van". Most of them were empty of everything other than a stove and a kettle, but one or two really did have what I think was called at the time a Tempest Receiver.
It is not "mythical" or "secret" - you can make one from an old LW/MW radio and a slightly modified CRT based TV set. You basically use the output from the radio (once you have tuned it to the target sets timebase) and THIS provides (via the audio output / amplifier) the timebase you need for your tempest receiver. Any colour signals are lost and IIRC, the image is also a negative unless you compensate for it..
Amazingly, it will work on some modern screen too - you might find this interesting..... th-cam.com/video/BpNP9b3aIfY/w-d-xo.html
Hi Vince... In the video you said you can't sell these, and I understand. For those of us who don't mind being a bit naughty, what's a good solution for people who are happy to remove all of the BT socket stuff and just have a nice slimline socket setup? Presumably there's a decent quality 3rd party socket that does filtering, surge protection, bell wire isolation etc without sticking 2 inches off the wall? If anyone could suggest something decent, I'm guessing it's going to be you... ;)
Hi Rob, I agree they are ugly especially if the rest of the house has been done with black nickel flat plates etc. As far as I know I have not seen any 3rd party sockets that have the bell wire filter. They all have the standard mastering components but nothing specialised (bell wire filter) like the newer sockets and none of the ADSL/VDSL faceplates are going to fit onto the chrome/nickel sockets. I presume the manufacturers of these kind of sockets are not interested because of the small market.
Thanks Vince
Do you know of any suppliers for these mk 4 faceplates??? Apart from eBay
BT engineering stores :-P
why can't you sell them. I'm sure you can now but just not then , yeah?
No surge protector... nasty
The surge protector was found to have a speed impact on both ADSL and VDSL. That said, I would still prefer it there.
@@cjmillsnun So you would want us to all have slower Broadband. Just how much slower - does anyone know ?
We don't need all the this information of what is made from and how its put together . Just how to wire it up
Don't use the "we" term when you mean "I". You don't know what other people need.
What a *TERRIBLE* design! Those connections are just *begging* to become corroded and fail. How ON EARTH did this CRAP pass BABT?
You made an awful hash of explaining what is going on. I speak from 43yrs experience in BT, wired a few installations and re-hashed my own installation as technology moves on. KISS would have been the route to go down. There is no need to do a breakdown of the iternals!