As a 30 year professional mechanic, side flex wear is super critical test with 1x drivetrains especially eagle set ups. We’ve had many chains pass the traditional wear indicator but shifted horribly. This new test is necessary for the modern mtb/ gravel drivetrains. Side flex/ wear leads to super poor shifting. One would use it during a tune up when the chain is already removed for cleaning and then test. I would have agreed with you 5 years ago but bike drivetrains have changed with 10 -50/52 cassette spreads.
Thank you for your insight. I, myself, don't usually remove the chain for cleaning. But if the 1x drivetrain shows poor shifting despite a realitely new cable and proper rear derailleur adjustment, this might be a reason to remove the chain and check lateral wear. Does this sound reasonable?
I take readings with a set of bearing cavity verniers before chain installation , as well as taking lateral wear readings . I then record this . I take readings again at service time . I note the differences and translate them into variation percentages as recommended by the manufacturers. This guides me on when the client needs chain replacement.
@@robertmcfadyen9156 There are several videos on using Vernier Calipers for chain wear re: elongation. How do you measure lateral wear with the calipers?
@@tony10speed I take a carbon film imprint before chain installation when new . I keep reference imprints for a large variety of chain models from a library created by other industry counterparts , people that have followed this process . These are comparative , yet helpful .
@@tony10speed sylvainmichaud2262 has been intercepting my private messages to you . He has left slightly confusing replies . You need to change your account settings / make them more robust , as this activity by him is "unusual" . He could be spamming or phishing your account .
If I didn't have the basic one, I might consider it. I like that it can measure lateral wear, even though taking off the chain is never fun. Great review as always.
I woud agree. See our video on 3 point chain checkers and tell me what you think: th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Since you have to take the chain off, I would feel as though I would need to charge for a new link if the old chain was not worn. Too time consuming for me to think about using it in the shop. Maybe in the future, it will become a bit quicker to use.
It isn't too much work to measure longitudinal "stretch" on the bike but requires good side lighting an a keen eye. One can not measure lateral stretch with the chain on the bike which is a real problem.
@@tony10speed The lateral wear is mostly an issue on 12/13 speed chain. But my guess is, unless one rides the extreme cross-chaining often, the longitudinal stretch will be the first critera to reject a chain.
@@tony10speedI have type two diabetic retinopathy . How useful are diopter lamps for this fine measurement work and doing disc brake alignment etc . I still get advanced and sometimes complex work from clients .
Does lateral wear affect different speed cogsets in a different way? For example, on an 8 speed, maybe lateral wear doesn't matter that much, because the chain and cogs are wider. But on a 13 speed, I suppose more precision is needed because if the chain is flopping around too much laterally, maybe the upper jockey wheel won't be able to position it correctly for a smooth and accurate shift. I'm speculating, and haven't tried it. I use Campy 10 speed, and it shifts wonderfully, and faster than electronic.
Good question that I don't have an answer. But I would also speculate that lateral wear may be seen more often with 12 and 13 speed since the thickness of the outer and inner plates are thinner. Any of our viewers have any other ideas?
A few important things to keep in mind when using a ruler. • Keep the chain under tension (shift to the largest chainring and smallest cassette cog). • Use a good metal ruler and make sure the end is it's lined up well with the chain's pin (rivet). • Take your time (requires a keen eye), especially when dealing with 12 and 13 speed. If the ruler works for you, that's great. Here's my take on chain wear measurement. Let me know what you think: th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html Regards, Tony
Great video but the tool looks far too much trouble. The simple Park tool "Go/NoGo" check is good enough. But maybe useful if you were trouble-shooting some unusual issues. What's the deal with "lateral wear" anyway-- who cares if your chain has lateral wear?
Apparently it's of a big concern to John Langley (Bicycle Magazine) and Lenord Zinn (author of Road Bike Maintenance and Mountain Bike Mantenance). I would tend to agree with them in that lateral wear can lead to poor shifting as well as wear to cassette and chainrings. However, they will need improve the tool so we can measure lateral wear while the chain is ON the bicycle - to allow us to have a closer look at lateral wear. Good question! Thanks, Tony
@tony10speed Jim Langley maybe? I rate him and am a fan of his YT channel. I guess I could look at lateral wear if I have the chain off to clean it anyway. But I'm too lazy to do that very often :)
I, myself, prefer the three point chain wear indicator CC-4 or CC-4.2 See out video and tell me what you think: th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
According to the experts, the tool is precision made and accurate with the ability to know increments of wear such as 0.25, 0.5, 0.75 and 1%. However, you need to hold the tool properly, have good side lighting and a keen eye to observe the pin thru the hole in the tool. Measuement of lateral wear is unique to this tool, however, one must remove the chain for this measurement (which many of us don't care to do).
@lionden4 False. Only 3 types of chain wear tool are accurate. Accurate tools (see below) only measure the pin wear. One of these tool is indispensable if you have a 12/13 speed chain but highly recommended for any other bikes. Especially those with expensive chainrings and cassettes. The other usual tools (2 points touching the chain) measure both the pin and the roller wear.The roller wear as no incidence on the wear of the chainrings and cassettes. The precise tools are : Type 1: A simple ruler over 12 inches. Type 2 is like the Abbey seen in this video or the old 1990"s _Speedtech Chain Wear Indicator_ (I own one since 1992). These two tools measure, like a ruler but in a much easier manner, the length from pin center to pin center which is not affected at all by chain rollers wear. Type 3 Is much cheaper than the Abbey Tool and is designed as a three points measuring type of tool. The tool is built in such a way that it doesn't add the roller wear in its measurement. These tools are Park CC-4 or CC-4.2 (adds single speed measuring capability to CC-4), Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II, Shimano (TL-CN41 not 12/13 speed compatible) TL-CN42. Other manufacturer may make one.
@@sylvainmichaud2262 if you have just basic tool you are good. And as cyclist you will know when your chain needs to replace. In my opinion you don't need expensive tool/s just to check your chain. IThere is no right or wrong in here.
@lionden4 Good for you then. I would still recommend a 3 point chain checker for those who don't possess this _instinct_ that you have to avoid a late replacement of a worn chain that could cause premature wear of expensive chainrings and cassettes. Spending less than $30 to prolong a $100+ ultegra cassette and $300+ of Ultegra chainrings is more than a good investment. Has I said, I understand that you're one of the special _gifted ones_ who don't need these tools.
Really enjoy your videos, Tony. That looks like a great tool. I would recommend spending $30 on a crockpot, paraffin wax, and a 1.5 ounce of PTFE and start waxing your chain. You won’t have to worry about your chain for about every 10,000 mile, not to mention the protection waxing gives to your cassette. Grace & Peace
I'm not sure a 12 or 13 speed chain would last that long. But many cyclist, especially those living in areas that are frequently wet or damp swear by waxing. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for viewing the video and a number of others agree with you. Be sure to see our recommended chain wear indicators at : th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Gimmicks for big cash, mark a piece of wood or metal and you‘re fine. A bike-shop that buys tools like this looses 100% reputation in my eye. That is a parts mounter, not a bike-shop with material competence in tool building..
The tool does have some benifits in that it's easier to read the amount of longitudinal wear (stretch) then using a ruler (the chain needs to be under pressure pulling at both ends for a ruler to be accurate. However, my biggist grips are that the tool is difficult to read while the chain is on the bike, lateral wear requires removing the chain, and the tool is not cheap. It's a good idea, just not practical in every day life of bike maintenance. P.S. a ruler will work as in your case if the ruler is high quality and you have a keen eye. Thanks for your comment, Tony
@@tony10speed yep, I saw it‘s awkwardness in handling, and I‘m sure a mechanic trained in machining and fabrication, same as a watchmaker has built a tool better in no time, before even looking for half the cash to buy this. That tool is for people like me - consumers with two left hands and too much money for gimmicks to spend in free time.. ;-) Love the old litespeed, though. We dreamed about them and very few could afford to import them, then.
As a 30 year professional mechanic, side flex wear is super critical test with 1x drivetrains especially eagle set ups. We’ve had many chains pass the traditional wear indicator but shifted horribly. This new test is necessary for the modern mtb/ gravel drivetrains. Side flex/ wear leads to super poor shifting. One would use it during a tune up when the chain is already removed for cleaning and then test. I would have agreed with you 5 years ago but bike drivetrains have changed with 10 -50/52 cassette spreads.
Thank you for your insight. I, myself, don't usually remove the chain for cleaning. But if the 1x drivetrain shows poor shifting despite a realitely new cable and proper rear derailleur adjustment, this might be a reason to remove the chain and check lateral wear. Does this sound reasonable?
I take readings with a set of bearing cavity verniers before chain installation , as well as taking lateral wear readings . I then record this . I take readings again at service time . I note the differences and translate them into variation percentages as recommended by the manufacturers. This guides me on when the client needs chain replacement.
@@robertmcfadyen9156 There are several videos on using Vernier Calipers for chain wear re: elongation. How do you measure lateral wear with the calipers?
@@tony10speed I take a carbon film imprint before chain installation when new . I keep reference imprints for a large variety of chain models from a library created by other industry counterparts , people that have followed this process . These are comparative , yet helpful .
@@tony10speed sylvainmichaud2262 has been intercepting my private messages to you . He has left slightly confusing replies . You need to change your account settings / make them more robust , as this activity by him is "unusual" . He could be spamming or phishing your account .
If I didn't have the basic one, I might consider it. I like that it can measure lateral wear, even though taking off the chain is never fun. Great review as always.
I woud agree. See our video on 3 point chain checkers and tell me what you think:
th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Since you have to take the chain off, I would feel as though I would need to charge for a new link if the old chain was not worn. Too time consuming for me to think about using it in the shop. Maybe in the future, it will become a bit quicker to use.
Great video Tony , it seems a lot of work
It isn't too much work to measure longitudinal "stretch" on the bike but requires good side lighting an a keen eye. One can not measure lateral stretch with the chain on the bike which is a real problem.
@@tony10speed
The lateral wear is mostly an issue on 12/13 speed chain. But my guess is, unless one rides the extreme cross-chaining often, the longitudinal stretch will be the first critera to reject a chain.
@@sylvainmichaud2262 I would tend to agree but have not yet used the Abby tool long enough to make a definite conclusion. Be well, Tony
@@tony10speedI have type two diabetic retinopathy . How useful are diopter lamps for this fine measurement work and doing disc brake alignment etc . I still get advanced and sometimes complex work from clients .
@@sylvainmichaud2262Secondly , the backlit sheet of white cardboard technique , for aligning disc brake rotors and calipers ?
Does lateral wear affect different speed cogsets in a different way? For example, on an 8 speed, maybe lateral wear doesn't matter that much, because the chain and cogs are wider. But on a 13 speed, I suppose more precision is needed because if the chain is flopping around too much laterally, maybe the upper jockey wheel won't be able to position it correctly for a smooth and accurate shift. I'm speculating, and haven't tried it. I use Campy 10 speed, and it shifts wonderfully, and faster than electronic.
Good question that I don't have an answer. But I would also speculate that lateral wear may be seen more often with 12 and 13 speed since the thickness of the outer and inner plates are thinner. Any of our viewers have any other ideas?
A 12” ruler is all I have ever needed.
A few important things to keep in mind when using a ruler.
• Keep the chain under tension (shift to the largest chainring and smallest cassette cog).
• Use a good metal ruler and make sure the end is it's lined up well with the chain's pin (rivet).
• Take your time (requires a keen eye), especially when dealing with 12 and 13 speed.
If the ruler works for you, that's great. Here's my take on chain wear measurement. Let me know what you think:
th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html
Regards, Tony
Nice tool and presentation.
Do we want to get our hands stained with dirty lubricants?
Thanks for the presentation. What crankset do you have on that Litespeed?
I have it rigged up with a 160mm Orgin8 crank 110 BCD (double with 46/34 chainrings which gives me shifting like my old setup was in those days).
I'm going to guess that someone has done the math on the lateral wear and we could use a decent ruler and make a little jig.
If I find those calculations on lateral wear, I'll share them on my channel.
What size sprockets on that cassette?
12/36 cassette to climb some of the steeper hills in NJ and PA.
That sounds ideal. I’ve 11. 34. a13. 36. would do me way better
@@kerrysupporter I could not find a 13/36 cassette, only the 12/26. One needs to check that your rear derailleur could handle the larger cog.
Great video but the tool looks far too much trouble. The simple Park tool "Go/NoGo" check is good enough. But maybe useful if you were trouble-shooting some unusual issues. What's the deal with "lateral wear" anyway-- who cares if your chain has lateral wear?
Apparently it's of a big concern to John Langley (Bicycle Magazine) and Lenord Zinn (author of Road Bike Maintenance and Mountain Bike Mantenance). I would tend to agree with them in that lateral wear can lead to poor shifting as well as wear to cassette and chainrings. However, they will need improve the tool so we can measure lateral wear while the chain is ON the bicycle - to allow us to have a closer look at lateral wear. Good question! Thanks, Tony
@tony10speed Jim Langley maybe? I rate him and am a fan of his YT channel. I guess I could look at lateral wear if I have the chain off to clean it anyway. But I'm too lazy to do that very often :)
@@benc8386 Me too.
Park Tool CC 3.2 and CC 2✔️💯👍🏾
🙋♂️Works For Me👍🏾
I, myself, prefer the three point chain wear indicator CC-4 or CC-4.2
See out video and tell me what you think:
th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Just use the basic chain checker tool. Nothing fancy and accurate.
According to the experts, the tool is precision made and accurate with the ability to know increments of wear such as 0.25, 0.5, 0.75 and 1%. However, you need to hold the tool properly, have good side lighting and a keen eye to observe the pin thru the hole in the tool. Measuement of lateral wear is unique to this tool, however, one must remove the chain for this measurement (which many of us don't care to do).
@lionden4
False.
Only 3 types of chain wear tool are accurate.
Accurate tools (see below) only measure the pin wear. One of these tool is indispensable if you have a 12/13 speed chain but highly recommended for any other bikes. Especially those with expensive chainrings and cassettes.
The other usual tools (2 points touching the chain) measure both the pin and the roller wear.The roller wear as no incidence on the wear of the chainrings and cassettes.
The precise tools are :
Type 1: A simple ruler over 12 inches.
Type 2 is like the Abbey seen in this video or the old 1990"s _Speedtech Chain Wear Indicator_ (I own one since 1992). These two tools measure, like a ruler but in a much easier manner, the length from pin center to pin center which is not affected at all by chain rollers wear.
Type 3 Is much cheaper than the Abbey Tool and is designed as a three points measuring type of tool. The tool is built in such a way that it doesn't add the roller wear in its measurement.
These tools are
Park CC-4 or CC-4.2 (adds single speed measuring capability to CC-4), Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II, Shimano (TL-CN41 not 12/13 speed compatible) TL-CN42.
Other manufacturer may make one.
@@sylvainmichaud2262 The Speedtech Chain Wear Indicator is quite a tool. You can still buy the Speedtech on Ebay if you're willing to spend $100.
@@sylvainmichaud2262 if you have just basic tool you are good. And as cyclist you will know when your chain needs to replace. In my opinion you don't need expensive tool/s just to check your chain. IThere is no right or wrong in here.
@lionden4
Good for you then.
I would still recommend a 3 point chain checker for those who don't possess this _instinct_ that you have to avoid a late replacement of a worn chain that could cause premature wear of expensive chainrings and cassettes.
Spending less than $30 to prolong a $100+ ultegra cassette and $300+ of Ultegra chainrings is more than a good investment.
Has I said, I understand that you're one of the special _gifted ones_ who don't need these tools.
Really enjoy your videos, Tony. That looks like a great tool. I would recommend spending $30 on a crockpot, paraffin wax, and a 1.5 ounce of PTFE and start waxing your chain. You won’t have to worry about your chain for about every 10,000 mile, not to mention the protection waxing gives to your cassette. Grace & Peace
I'm not sure a 12 or 13 speed chain would last that long. But many cyclist, especially those living in areas that are frequently wet or damp swear by waxing. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
500-1000 km, you have to wax it. I went back to oil. I agree chain won't last the long 10,000 miles.
@@lionden4 Thanks for your comments. Regards, Tony
@ Tony I love your videos!
No thank you.
Thanks for viewing the video and a number of others agree with you. Be sure to see our recommended chain wear indicators at :
th-cam.com/video/8UZJIcKacKI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Gimmicks for big cash, mark a piece of wood or metal and you‘re fine. A bike-shop that buys tools like this looses 100% reputation in my eye. That is a parts mounter, not a bike-shop with material competence in tool building..
The tool does have some benifits in that it's easier to read the amount of longitudinal wear (stretch) then using a ruler (the chain needs to be under pressure pulling at both ends for a ruler to be accurate. However, my biggist grips are that the tool is difficult to read while the chain is on the bike, lateral wear requires removing the chain, and the tool is not cheap. It's a good idea, just not practical in every day life of bike maintenance.
P.S. a ruler will work as in your case if the ruler is high quality and you have a keen eye.
Thanks for your comment, Tony
@@tony10speed yep, I saw it‘s awkwardness in handling, and I‘m sure a mechanic trained in machining and fabrication, same as a watchmaker has built a tool better in no time, before even looking for half the cash to buy this.
That tool is for people like me - consumers with two left hands and too much money for gimmicks to spend in free time.. ;-)
Love the old litespeed, though. We dreamed about them and very few could afford to import them, then.