I have had the blue park chain checker for years. But someone said that the 3 point Pedro checker was better, so I bought one. I use it just like you show. But I find it doesn't provide any benefit that I can tell. I have used them both on the same chain at the same time to come to this conclusion. The Park tool is much easier and quicker. So it is the one I usually use.
I've been using the 2-point Park CC-3.2 along side of the 3-point Pedro, Park 3-point CC-4 and the new Abbey LL. What I have found is that with some chains the 2 point Park CC-3.2 will give me a 0.5% wear while the other tools (used on the same chain at the same time) do not indicate 0.5% but rather less wear. I believe that the Park CC-3.2 is indicating roller wear rather then the actual chain link/pin/bushing wear that we want to look at. Up until you reach 0.5%, one will not see a difference. Using the 2-point Park CC-3.2 or similar wear indicators may mean that you're chaining the chain a little before you need to - which is OK. If you want your chain to last a few hundred (or possibly a thousand) miles more, use the 3 point indicator. In an upcoming video I'll talk about the Abbey LL. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@tony10speed I have found, on my 12-speed drivetrains, that the chain starts running noticeably rougher slightly before the CC-3.2 or the CC-4 indicate 0.5% wear. So, if there is a difference, which I have yet to see, between a 3-point checker and a CC-3.2 checker, I don't know that the 3-point checker is an advantage. I now change my chains based on drivetrain smoothness, slightly before 0.5%.
@@NelsonSherry You have a good point with the 12 and 13-speed chains. The experts and manufactures say we should replace the chain at 0.5% wear. However, as you point out, one may well want to replace the chain sooner. The Abby Chain Wear Tool gives a 0.25% indication. Although the Abby tool is not the easiest to use, maybe this is a case for it. See below and let me know what you think: th-cam.com/video/jCNDimx9Y80/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
@@tony10speed Yes. I appreciated that video a lot as a good practical evaluation of the Abbey tool. I suspect I've been replacing my 12-speed chains, based on drive train noise/roughness at about 0.45% wear becaues the tools are ever so close to dropping in. That being said, I have a SRAM XX1 that I swapped out after a few 1000 miles (didn't track distance closely) because it was running rough after a life of silky smoothness and it's nowhere close to 0.5% . It almost measures new. This makes me wonder if the rollers are wearing before the rest of the chain and enough, or in a way, that leads to rough running.
Thanks for posting this video. I found that the swivel arm style (blue checker) is prone to getting the little pins bent if not careful when storing in a tool box.
Being a mechanic in a high-volume shop, I litterally check hundreds of chains a year for chain wear. Over the years, I have frequently compared the measurements of the Park CC-3.2 (my favorite) with other chain checkers, including three-point checkers like the Park CC-4.2 or, the Shimano CN42, or the Pedros Chain Checker plus ii, or others. I have yet to find a chain (not counting SRAM flat-top), regardless of brand, model, or wear, where the CC-3.2 measures wear differently than any of the three-point tools. Go figure. Conversely, I've found plenty of the mechanical (the ones with moving parts) chain checkers that have shown new chains as worn out. I also have a SRAM XX1 chain with many, many miles on it, that started running roughly and shows no measureable wear with any tools. Clearly, there is unmeasured wear on this exceptionally durable chain. Go figure.
I also did not find much difference until I started looking closely at chains that were at or near the 0.5% mark. In those cases of discrepacies, I tend to favor the three point chain wear indicators ( although that's just a personal choice based on the 3 point measurement technique). But I do agree with you, this is far from an exact science. Thanks for your input, Tony
@@daveanolik8837 The SRAM flat top chains have larger rollers and SRAM suggests replacing those chains at 0.8% wear. Here are some references and an interesting forum discussion: support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/5928711817755-When-should-I-replace-my-SRAM-Eagle-chain and support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/25563525293339-When-should-the-chain-on-my-SRAM-RED-AXS-groupset-be-replaced and the forum www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/SRAM-Eagle-chain-longevity-is-impressive,9934 Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you. I have been using the Pedro tool on my SRAM AXS 13 speed chain for 3 years and I never pinched the chain between the two hooks as you show. I hot wax my chain and I rely on my checker to track the stretch on the 2 chains that I rotate. This is the first time I have seen instructions to pinch the chain between the hooks
It's important to hold the tension on the chain when measuring to get an accurate reading. You need tension to pull the pins into the worn parts of the links and bushings as we show in the mock up early in the video. This will elongate the chain (so called "chain stretch"). Now we can get a true idea of wear with our 3 point chain wear indicator. Even if you want to use a ruler to measure pin distance over 12 inches for wear (can be done if you have an accurate ruler and great eye site), it is important to apply tension on the chain before measuring elongation between pins which would make sense. Also check out videos from other experts: th-cam.com/video/zljcAbdb27U/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SpokesmanMTB and th-cam.com/video/iOaFF_4CqJg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool Hope this answers your question. Thanks for asking and safe cycling, Tony
@@sylvainmichaud2262 Take a look at Rotor America: rotorbike.com/rotor-1x13-road-groupset.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqiOOAkqfgscrGobH6WgKaBQwfVkFJT6B8dC3YxlypoUujcQVG_ and Campy's 13 speed: www.competitivecyclist.com/campagnolo-ekar-13-cassette?skid=CPGA05F-SIL-S13S10X&CMP_SKU=CPGA05F&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=&mr:ploc=9004016&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=&:G%7Cs:CC%7Cct:Shopping%7Cct2:pMax%7Cg:xx%7Cc1:Components%7Cc2:xx%7Cb:xx%7Cmt:xx&CPGA05F-SIL-S13S10X_mca-4768825_sig-Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4ny8H_YUtLxe8d-VuJMxhW61KeBz3OXOkNR9aLYlbBepPxPjJkyg99saAvznEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4ny8H_YUtLxe8d-VuJMxhW61KeBz3OXOkNR9aLYlbBepPxPjJkyg99saAvznEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you. Personaly I prefer cheapest one ( as alredy present at probably every home ), and easiest to use, with very obvious, large reading. Someone already mentioned it before - A RULER. 30 links are exactly 381mm. No need to count them, as worn out chain is only 2mm longer ( 383mm ), while one link is 12.7mm. It is enough, and easy to stretch your chain straight on the bench . If you want to be super comfortable, go for double 60 links. What in my opinion is very important, so far nobody mentioned here, CHAIN MUST BE MEASURED WHEN IS CLEAN. That's because only 2mm makes difference - on almost 400mm long section - between new, and dead chain. So, dirt left between pins and links can give you very false reading, showing your chain has plenty of mileage left, while in fact already eating your costly teeth. Another point somebody mentioned here, there are two 12S SRAM Eagle chains, which are shorter when brand new. Exactly 380.4 instead of 381mm on 30 links. That's due to smaller pin's bore tollerance. This difference is negligible for your teeth, and in result these chains have 40% more mileage in bank. What was confirmed by most professional tester - Zero Friction Chain - a very useful website. Those two chains last much longer than any other best chain.
Thanks for you comment. Very informative. You do need a clean chain. It is also important to put the chain under tension (more then just the tension you get from the rear derailleur). Some suggest removing the chain and weighting one end to do this. Otherwise you may get a false negative result. You also need a great metal measuring ruler and good eye site. With the 12S Eagle, I wonder if they've also changed the cassette cogs to accommadate the shorter link length. Thanks again and safe cycling, Tony
great vid, love the chain model as well. Exact reason why I rotate two chains, been doing that for years and moved to waxing about 3 years ago. When I moved to AXS Flattop chains, I picked up a Park CC-4.2, but use the 3.2 as a rough check first and if it seems close, I will break out the 4.2
The SRAM AXS Flattop rollers are larger than the usual 10,11,12 speed chain rollers giving a false negative result with the Park cc-3.2. SRAM suggests using a three point chain wear indicator to compensate for the increased roller size: www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/sram-eagle-flattop-and-11-speed-chain-compatible-tools.pdf I'm not sure that using the Park 3.2 would give you a rough estimate in that you may get false negatives. Any comments from our viewers? Thanks for your input and safe cycling, Tony
I've used both the Pedro and Park 3-point with good results. I have noticed false positives and negative result with the two point, especially with some 11 and 12 speed chains. Regards, Tony
Putting pressure on the pedals possibly helps but doesn't move the pins in the same direction as does the middle and gauge hooks do. The 2-point even with added pressure on the pedals may still give you false positive or false negative results due to chain roller wear and size - at least that's my understanding.
I have a challenge for you: Find a chain that measures differently on your 3-point chain checkers when compared to your Park CC-3.2. Then show us. Further, if you give it a good faith effort and fail to find us an example, please share that outcome as well. Thanks.
I have one such a chain on my Litespeed classic and on an Independent Fabrication - which I will film. The CC-3.2 says they are worn to 0.5%. All other tools (3 point checkers CC-4 from Park and the 3 point from Pedro as well as the Abby LL) indicate that it has not reached that level. Interesting but this is an on-going investigation and I will continue to gather data. Thanks for your comment, Tony
I use a steel ruler but a steel tape measure works, calipers but I wouldn't spend the money on calipers just to check the chain. I suppose if I was a professional bike mechanic I would get one of those tools but measuring from center of a rivet or pin to the center of another rivet at 12" works. Anything over 12 1/16" is time for a new chain. Works for me anyhow. Thanks for the explanation.
A steel ruler or tape measure will work as you say. The chain needs to be under tension or you will get a false negative result. Some people remove the chain and hang it up with a small weight at the end to create more tension than is created by the rear derailleur. Holding the ruler steady and keen eyesite are required for measurement. Personally, I prefer the 3 point tool - in that it's quick and easy. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
It took me 5 viewings to figure out what is really going on - what the tensioning accomplishes and that the tensioning is a combination of the tensioning hook and you pulling on the chain. And I still fear that the tensioning might not work if the chain is so stretched that the chain hits the tool when you pull on it thereby giving an erroneous reading. It would help to show close-ups of the chain when doing tensioning. In the video, that section is either in darkness or obscured by your fingers or just shown too briefly without a good explanation that pulls the big picture together.
I'll be putting out another video on 3-point chain checker in Oct. I'll be sure to include some close ups of how to create the proper tension. Creating tension by moving the pins in the same direction allows for accurate wear measurement and actually reduces erroneous readings. Thanks for your comment and look for our new video next month. Regards, Tony
I currently have a cervelo rs 10 speed . 50/34. In front 11/34 rear cassette. I was thinking of upgrading the rear cassette to a 12 speed for a bit of a comfy ride with speed and for the hills in the SF Bay Area. Is this something you would suggest, if so what size cassette would you go with . I’m sure I have to upgrade chain and possibly hanger for derailur
To upgrade from a 10 speed to 12 speed would require major upgrades to your drivetrain (cassette, chainrings, chain and derailleur) and new 12 speed shifters. The 10 speed freehub will not accommodate a 12 speed cassette. I'm not sure the comfort would be worth the cost to make all these changes. I suggest you check with your local bike store and take a new 12 speed for a test ride and see it that's something you really want. If so, it's probably worth investing in a new bike.
@@tony10speed No references, per se', just the observation that the pins are pressed into the outer plates and there is no movement between the outer plate and the pins, unlike the inner plates.
Calipers can be used although there is still some controversy as pointed out in some forums: weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=160370 Another cyclist points out the following: Measuring stretch with a caliper this way shares the same problem that causes most of the wear gauges to read high. Roller float (and wear as well as varing roller size in some chains) is included in the measurement, adding to the reading. If you want to use a caliper, measure from the outside plates instead. First measure from the front of a plate to the back of one about 6" away on a new chain to establish the zero reading. record that someplace where you won't lose it. Then you can repeat the measurement any time and the difference equals the stretch. *Don't forget to put some tension in the chain by pressing the pedals while not letting the rear wheel turn, otherwise you'll get a low reading. *Also use a quality digital caliper. Yes, digital calipers can be used but I'm not sure all the answers as to percision are in (especially with 11-13 speed chains). Good point to investigate. Thanks for your input, Tony
Yes you can use a tape measure. Be sure it's one that can be read easily and that the chain is under adequate tension (some suggest positioning the chain on the large cog and large chainring). I would suggest a steel ruler that's engraved with numbers and marks since a tape measure can bend out of shape and the very end of the measure may not be accurate. One also needs good eyesite. Thanks orlando for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
I have had the blue park chain checker for years. But someone said that the 3 point Pedro checker was better, so I bought one. I use it just like you show. But I find it doesn't provide any benefit that I can tell. I have used them both on the same chain at the same time to come to this conclusion. The Park tool is much easier and quicker. So it is the one I usually use.
I've been using the 2-point Park CC-3.2 along side of the 3-point Pedro, Park 3-point CC-4 and the new Abbey LL. What I have found is that with some chains the 2 point Park CC-3.2 will give me a 0.5% wear while the other tools (used on the same chain at the same time) do not indicate 0.5% but rather less wear. I believe that the Park CC-3.2 is indicating roller wear rather then the actual chain link/pin/bushing wear that we want to look at. Up until you reach 0.5%, one will not see a difference. Using the 2-point Park CC-3.2 or similar wear indicators may mean that you're chaining the chain a little before you need to - which is OK. If you want your chain to last a few hundred (or possibly a thousand) miles more, use the 3 point indicator. In an upcoming video I'll talk about the Abbey LL.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@tony10speed I have found, on my 12-speed drivetrains, that the chain starts running noticeably rougher slightly before the CC-3.2 or the CC-4 indicate 0.5% wear. So, if there is a difference, which I have yet to see, between a 3-point checker and a CC-3.2 checker, I don't know that the 3-point checker is an advantage. I now change my chains based on drivetrain smoothness, slightly before 0.5%.
@@NelsonSherry You have a good point with the 12 and 13-speed chains. The experts and manufactures say we should replace the chain at 0.5% wear. However, as you point out, one may well want to replace the chain sooner. The Abby Chain Wear Tool gives a 0.25% indication. Although the Abby tool is not the easiest to use, maybe this is a case for it. See below and let me know what you think:
th-cam.com/video/jCNDimx9Y80/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
@@tony10speed Yes. I appreciated that video a lot as a good practical evaluation of the Abbey tool. I suspect I've been replacing my 12-speed chains, based on drive train noise/roughness at about 0.45% wear becaues the tools are ever so close to dropping in. That being said, I have a SRAM XX1 that I swapped out after a few 1000 miles (didn't track distance closely) because it was running rough after a life of silky smoothness and it's nowhere close to 0.5% . It almost measures new. This makes me wonder if the rollers are wearing before the rest of the chain and enough, or in a way, that leads to rough running.
Thanks for posting this video. I found that the swivel arm style (blue checker) is prone to getting the little pins bent if not careful when storing in a tool box.
I would tend to agree with you on that. Storage as well as recalibration on some tool are key to maintaining accuracy.
Being a mechanic in a high-volume shop, I litterally check hundreds of chains a year for chain wear. Over the years, I have frequently compared the measurements of the Park CC-3.2 (my favorite) with other chain checkers, including three-point checkers like the Park CC-4.2 or, the Shimano CN42, or the Pedros Chain Checker plus ii, or others. I have yet to find a chain (not counting SRAM flat-top), regardless of brand, model, or wear, where the CC-3.2 measures wear differently than any of the three-point tools. Go figure. Conversely, I've found plenty of the mechanical (the ones with moving parts) chain checkers that have shown new chains as worn out. I also have a SRAM XX1 chain with many, many miles on it, that started running roughly and shows no measureable wear with any tools. Clearly, there is unmeasured wear on this exceptionally durable chain. Go figure.
I also did not find much difference until I started looking closely at chains that were at or near the 0.5% mark. In those cases of discrepacies, I tend to favor the three point chain wear indicators ( although that's just a personal choice based on the 3 point measurement technique). But I do agree with you, this is far from an exact science. Thanks for your input, Tony
Why is the SRAM flat-top an exception?
@@daveanolik8837 The SRAM flat top chains have larger rollers and SRAM suggests replacing those chains at 0.8% wear. Here are some references and an interesting forum discussion:
support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/5928711817755-When-should-I-replace-my-SRAM-Eagle-chain
and
support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/25563525293339-When-should-the-chain-on-my-SRAM-RED-AXS-groupset-be-replaced
and the forum
www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/SRAM-Eagle-chain-longevity-is-impressive,9934
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you. I have been using the Pedro tool on my SRAM AXS 13 speed chain for 3 years and I never pinched the chain between the two hooks as you show. I hot wax my chain and I rely on my checker to track the stretch on the 2 chains that I rotate. This is the first time I have seen instructions to pinch the chain between the hooks
It's important to hold the tension on the chain when measuring to get an accurate reading. You need tension to pull the pins into the worn parts of the links and bushings as we show in the mock up early in the video. This will elongate the chain (so called "chain stretch"). Now we can get a true idea of wear with our 3 point chain wear indicator. Even if you want to use a ruler to measure pin distance over 12 inches for wear (can be done if you have an accurate ruler and great eye site), it is important to apply tension on the chain before measuring elongation between pins which would make sense.
Also check out videos from other experts:
th-cam.com/video/zljcAbdb27U/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SpokesmanMTB
and
th-cam.com/video/iOaFF_4CqJg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool
Hope this answers your question. Thanks for asking and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you very much. I subscribed.
SRAM 13-speed was relased in July of 2024. Three years ago?
@@NelsonSherry
Probably meant 12 speed which also requires replacement at 0.5 rather than 0.75 for chains less than 12 speed.
@@sylvainmichaud2262 Take a look at Rotor America:
rotorbike.com/rotor-1x13-road-groupset.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqiOOAkqfgscrGobH6WgKaBQwfVkFJT6B8dC3YxlypoUujcQVG_
and Campy's 13 speed:
www.competitivecyclist.com/campagnolo-ekar-13-cassette?skid=CPGA05F-SIL-S13S10X&CMP_SKU=CPGA05F&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=&mr:ploc=9004016&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=&:G%7Cs:CC%7Cct:Shopping%7Cct2:pMax%7Cg:xx%7Cc1:Components%7Cc2:xx%7Cb:xx%7Cmt:xx&CPGA05F-SIL-S13S10X_mca-4768825_sig-Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4ny8H_YUtLxe8d-VuJMxhW61KeBz3OXOkNR9aLYlbBepPxPjJkyg99saAvznEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4ny8H_YUtLxe8d-VuJMxhW61KeBz3OXOkNR9aLYlbBepPxPjJkyg99saAvznEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you. Personaly I prefer cheapest one ( as alredy present at probably every home ), and easiest to use, with very obvious, large reading. Someone already mentioned it before - A RULER. 30 links are exactly 381mm. No need to count them, as worn out chain is only 2mm longer ( 383mm ), while one link is 12.7mm. It is enough, and easy to stretch your chain straight on the bench . If you want to be super comfortable, go for double 60 links.
What in my opinion is very important, so far nobody mentioned here, CHAIN MUST BE MEASURED WHEN IS CLEAN. That's because only 2mm makes difference - on almost 400mm long section - between new, and dead chain. So, dirt left between pins and links can give you very false reading, showing your chain has plenty of mileage left, while in fact already eating your costly teeth.
Another point somebody mentioned here, there are two 12S SRAM Eagle chains, which are shorter when brand new. Exactly 380.4 instead of 381mm on 30 links. That's due to smaller pin's bore tollerance. This difference is negligible for your teeth, and in result these chains have 40% more mileage in bank. What was confirmed by most professional tester - Zero Friction Chain - a very useful website. Those two chains last much longer than any other best chain.
Thanks for you comment. Very informative. You do need a clean chain. It is also important to put the chain under tension (more then just the tension you get from the rear derailleur). Some suggest removing the chain and weighting one end to do this. Otherwise you may get a false negative result. You also need a great metal measuring ruler and good eye site. With the 12S Eagle, I wonder if they've also changed the cassette cogs to accommadate the shorter link length.
Thanks again and safe cycling, Tony
great vid, love the chain model as well. Exact reason why I rotate two chains, been doing that for years and moved to waxing about 3 years ago. When I moved to AXS Flattop chains, I picked up a Park CC-4.2, but use the 3.2 as a rough check first and if it seems close, I will break out the 4.2
The SRAM AXS Flattop rollers are larger than the usual 10,11,12 speed chain rollers giving a false negative result with the Park cc-3.2. SRAM suggests using a three point chain wear indicator to compensate for the increased roller size:
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/sram-eagle-flattop-and-11-speed-chain-compatible-tools.pdf
I'm not sure that using the Park 3.2 would give you a rough estimate in that you may get false negatives. Any comments from our viewers?
Thanks for your input and safe cycling, Tony
Thank Tony, I just ordered the Pedros 3-point.
I've used both the Pedro and Park 3-point with good results. I have noticed false positives and negative result with the two point, especially with some 11 and 12 speed chains. Regards, Tony
I usually put slight pressure on the chain by pedals when using a 2 point to give a more exact measure
Putting pressure on the pedals possibly helps but doesn't move the pins in the same direction as does the middle and gauge hooks do. The 2-point even with added pressure on the pedals may still give you false positive or false negative results due to chain roller wear and size - at least that's my understanding.
Fantastic explanation. Thank you.
You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I have a challenge for you: Find a chain that measures differently on your 3-point chain checkers when compared to your Park CC-3.2. Then show us. Further, if you give it a good faith effort and fail to find us an example, please share that outcome as well. Thanks.
I have one such a chain on my Litespeed classic and on an Independent Fabrication - which I will film. The CC-3.2 says they are worn to 0.5%. All other tools (3 point checkers CC-4 from Park and the 3 point from Pedro as well as the Abby LL) indicate that it has not reached that level. Interesting but this is an on-going investigation and I will continue to gather data. Thanks for your comment, Tony
I use a steel ruler but a steel tape measure works, calipers but I wouldn't spend the money on calipers just to check the chain. I suppose if I was a professional bike mechanic I would get one of those tools but measuring from center of a rivet or pin to the center of another rivet at 12" works. Anything over 12 1/16" is time for a new chain. Works for me anyhow. Thanks for the explanation.
A steel ruler or tape measure will work as you say. The chain needs to be under tension or you will get a false negative result. Some people remove the chain and hang it up with a small weight at the end to create more tension than is created by the rear derailleur. Holding the ruler steady and keen eyesite are required for measurement. Personally, I prefer the 3 point tool - in that it's quick and easy. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
It took me 5 viewings to figure out what is really going on - what the tensioning accomplishes and that the tensioning is a combination of the tensioning hook and you pulling on the chain. And I still fear that the tensioning might not work if the chain is so stretched that the chain hits the tool when you pull on it thereby giving an erroneous reading. It would help to show close-ups of the chain when doing tensioning. In the video, that section is either in darkness or obscured by your fingers or just shown too briefly without a good explanation that pulls the big picture together.
I'll be putting out another video on 3-point chain checker in Oct. I'll be sure to include some close ups of how to create the proper tension. Creating tension by moving the pins in the same direction allows for accurate wear measurement and actually reduces erroneous readings.
Thanks for your comment and look for our new video next month. Regards, Tony
I currently have a cervelo rs 10 speed . 50/34. In front 11/34 rear cassette. I was thinking of upgrading the rear cassette to a 12 speed for a bit of a comfy ride with speed and for the hills in the SF Bay Area. Is this something you would suggest, if so what size cassette would you go with . I’m sure I have to upgrade chain and possibly hanger for derailur
To upgrade from a 10 speed to 12 speed would require major upgrades to your drivetrain (cassette, chainrings, chain and derailleur) and new 12 speed shifters. The 10 speed freehub will not accommodate a 12 speed cassette. I'm not sure the comfort would be worth the cost to make all these changes. I suggest you check with your local bike store and take a new 12 speed for a test ride and see it that's something you really want. If so, it's probably worth investing in a new bike.
There is no wear between the pins and the outer links, only the pin and inner links.
Interesting. Do you have some references for us to look at? Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed No references, per se', just the observation that the pins are pressed into the outer plates and there is no movement between the outer plate and the pins, unlike the inner plates.
calipers are best
Calipers can be used although there is still some controversy as pointed out in some forums:
weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=160370
Another cyclist points out the following:
Measuring stretch with a caliper this way shares the same problem that causes most of the wear gauges to read high. Roller float (and wear as well as varing roller size in some chains) is included in the measurement, adding to the reading. If you want to use a caliper, measure from the outside plates instead. First measure from the front of a plate to the back of one about 6" away on a new chain to establish the zero reading. record that someplace where you won't lose it. Then you can repeat the measurement any time and the difference equals the stretch.
*Don't forget to put some tension in the chain by pressing the pedals while not letting the rear wheel turn, otherwise you'll get a low reading.
*Also use a quality digital caliper.
Yes, digital calipers can be used but I'm not sure all the answers as to percision are in (especially with 11-13 speed chains).
Good point to investigate. Thanks for your input, Tony
🚴🏼🚴🏼🚴🏼
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
just use a tape measure 🙄
Yes you can use a tape measure. Be sure it's one that can be read easily and that the chain is under adequate tension (some suggest positioning the chain on the large cog and large chainring). I would suggest a steel ruler that's engraved with numbers and marks since a tape measure can bend out of shape and the very end of the measure may not be accurate. One also needs good eyesite. Thanks orlando for your comment and safe cycling, Tony