As a scientist at a research university, I’d like to thank you for your words. Regarding tubeless, I was convinced by the bike shop guys who assembled my commuter bike, and I’m enjoying it. I can leave 20 minutes before meetings and be confident that I’ll always be there on time. I haven’t had a single flat in 3 years even though I did get some punctures.
This channel is a great place to hang out , reminds me of the blacksmith shop where people just chill there to watch you work and just talk about everything and nothing really , there is something very relaxing to watch a craftsman do his thing , every step looks so easy ………talking while you work , falls into the same category as singing while you play guitar , it takes skill ! Keep on keeping on bike farmer .
I love bike content that involves the specific details of every component, like manufacturer, country of origin, popularity in cycling circles, etc. All those tidbits!
I enjoy watching your bike content bike farmer. I disagree with part of your opinions on media. The fact that you claim the legacy Media can be trusted when they can be one of the biggest perpetrators of propaganda and misinformation. Case in point the two-year run of the Russia hoax which turned out to complete lies fabricated to discredit a sitting president. Post the Mueller investigation and the unraveling of the lies all that was shown to be completely fabricated. Not surprisingly they never apologized and admitted that they were spreading misinformation which further discredits thier credibility. Like I said I love your bike stuff but it might be better just to stick to bikes. Perhaps you can start a second channel where you discuss your opinions about politics and culture.
It's so much fun to see you get so excited about these fancy bikes! This is such a pretty bike. This is how I also feel about guitars: They are absolutely works of art that also have jobs to do. And like a lot of guitars, this bike could be on display in a museum for its aesthetics alone. I love how you can go from this to a tune up of a 2003 Trek and still be interesting with both. I have one suggestion: When you edit these videos, look for one minute sections you can release as shorts - they can be ads for the long video, and you don't have to film anything extra. Keep up the great work and come on 60K!!!
I love this video, Andy. Anytime you want to post a video of working on a higher end bike (vintage or otherwise), please do. The classic bikes are just a breed apart, though, in my estimation. There is something so satisfying working with quality parts and tight tolerances. It is also worth seeing how your passion for quality comes out while you are working on bikes at this level. Also, that bike is so sweet--I definitely think you need to consider one for your bike stable. Velocity wheels and related parts are awesome. Located in Grand Rapids, Michigan, they are somewhat local to me and are a favorite of our LBS. Thanks for showcasing their products. Thanks, too, for your comments at the "truth stand." Spot on with the discussion regarding facts vs. opinion.
Love this @bikefarmer! Bruce introduced me to the Rando life and Bicycle Quarterly many years ago and, well, it's never been the same. When he bought this bike I told him it needed fenders. Glad to see it's finally going to happen! Great video and can't wait for part 2!
I would recommend overlapping the rim tape around the valve hole for any tubeless job. I've gotten burned on this in the past where corrosion around the naked valve hole caused leaks that the tubeless valve gasket could not seal. Presumably from chemicals in the sealant reacting with grime and salt and water. Who knows? To solve the problem, I drilled the presta hole out to Schrader sized and put a tubeless Schrader valve in with overlapping tape at the valve hole.
Thanks for helping me get a great start to my day -- it was an important vibey addition to the egg sandwich, coffee, watching the first heavy snowfall of the season... I'm going to head over to the bike shop shortly to continue working on my winter bike build, and likely carry a half-junked Miyata 610 strapped to my messenger bag so I can remove the chain and get to maybe un-junking that frame. Cheers Bike Farmer!
@@bkefrmr quick heads up, not sure if you realize this but a roadlink doesn't add any extra to the total capacity of the derailer, it just makes it so that a derailer can handle a larger rear cog.
@ I understand this is correct in theory, but in reality, I believe I just squeezed and extra 6t of actual capacity out of that derailleur by adding a road link. I’ve read the Wolf Tooth webpage. To me, it reads as CYA.
@ interesting, I’ll have to try that out next time I have that issue. The real hack is the suntour 3 pulley derailers that have monstrous chain wrap and are beautiful. Only downside is that they aren’t indexed
For those rusty or out of spec canti posts, I got a tool that is basically a little t-handle reamer that you run onto the post, it machines off any out of round or mushroomed bits. Makes the brakes fit as intended. It was only a few bucks from QBP or one of the parts suppliers and saves a ton of work. A lot of the cheaper mtbs with cantis have out of round posts that make the cheapo vbrakes stick. Fixes this perfectly.
I got some furniture polish and tried it on a bike, and OMG I cant believe that I never did that before. Its like waxing a car, only faster. That bike looks fantastic.
I don't think I'd ever own a vintage road bike. My only bike (so far 😏) is a hardtail that i use to commite to work when im feeling dangerous. But i sure do appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of these bikes. And i love watching them be updated and improved
You really are a unique person. In every way I prefer working on high end bikes in my shop. I won't buy them because I believe bikes hit their zenith in The 90's and always ride butted steel. Even I say high end bikes are more reliable, easier to work on and never come back for warrenty (I guess technically, the old Treks you work on are considered high end). BTW, today's choice of music is outstanding!!!
Loved this. Is so funny the your video you did with Jeff from bike jerks, lead me to Stephen Bilenky, and my new Bilenky signature tour light, it’s also a work of art. I agree for what I paid I would have for a mid range off the peg bike and here I got to pick everything I wanted and support a small business❤
Wonderful video. Optional Suggestion from a bike mechanic. Overlap tubeless tape, saves the valve from getting cut. Most manufacturers recommended two layers over 40 psi. Install tubes with more air and preferably with baby powder to help the tube settle within the tire and lets the tire slide within the tubeless rim profile. Polish spray on the allow brake track is controversial. 😂. Adding links to chain ends up adding three chain pins. Not ideal. New chain is recommended. Adding a wolf tooth road link on vintage dura ace versus vintage stock xtr rear derailleur, not my bag. The bike has an identity, wolf tooth add on sours the soup. He’s lucky you are working on it! It’s a special bike that needs experience. 😊. You’ve got it with that awesomeness regarding the cantilever stud issue.
I prefer to overlap the tape at the valve hole cuz the tape kinda softens the edge of the hole in the aluminum a little when you poke that valve through, which I think slightly reduces the risk of getting a hole at the base of the valve stem. No idea if it actually makes a difference but I like to imagine it does. Probably matters more with cheap rims that aren't finished as nicely. I dunno I haven't had a broken valve stem in a while so I'm gonna keep doing it. I freakin love the sound of cables going through cable stops though, that's niiiice whhiiiiiizz
Enjoying watching the fancy bike videos. I can highly recommend TPU tubes with Rene Herse tyres, lighter and fatter rolling. It's proported they are more puncture resistant also. Cheap ones can be had on eBay for the price of a butyl tube.
I work at the factory where these Gatorskins where made. Love them on my selfbuild retro racer too. Tough as hell and yes they are put together by hand. But I know the struggle of getting them of the rim very well. Had a flat somewhere in nowhere once, because of a nail and had to repair the tube. Took me 30min and I was lucky I had my metal lifts, because the platic ones will break. Never had Rene Herse tires not even sure if you can get them here in Germany.
Tubeless is awesome for commuting. Several times now I've been very glad to have my commuter set up tubeless. No one enjoys replacing a tube in the pouring rain. After 40plus years of riding tubes, I'm not going back.
This is very interesting toe as a mechanic. My experience has been that tubeless indeed performs and rides amazing, but isn't reliable much above 50psi. What are you running?
@@MHH3180 I think some of the newer sealants (Silca especially) are supposed to seal much better at road pressures than the sealants brought over from MTB. But I have no personal experience, I ride 33 CX tires at 40-50 PSI for the street (using Stans) and love getting home from a ride and seeing all the blobs of sealant where I didn't even notice on the ride.
I've been commuting on tubeless for six years and haven't had a single puncture. It doesn't seal up as easily if you run higher pressures and skinny tires, but I've got 650b x 47 tires that I like to keep around 40 PSI and it works great.
Daaaaannnngggg that's purty!! Can't wait for the fender episode - I'll get to see what my builder went through for my custom fancybike lol. But speaking of TPU tubes: They're probably the cheapest (per gram saved) _and_ the most useful way to save weight. On my new fancybike, I weighed one of my spare butyl tubes and one of the René Herse ones I spec'd for my bike, and it was butyl 226g - TPU 46g = 180g difference (650b size). Times 2 wheels = 360g or ¾ pound off the bike. Because I carry a spare, that's 540g or 1lb 3oz. less weight as I ride. Just because of the tubes. Add in the weight savings of the Herse Ultralight tires - in my case another 400g - and we're talking about shedding some serious weight. And getting a much-improved ride at the same time! Much better value than those titanium bottle cage bolts some people buy lol. I would totally put some Herse TPUs on this bike! It deserves them! lol. I like the Herse TPUs because they have a metal valve stem and they sell a patch kit (regular patches won't work). Yeah, they're bloody pricey, but in the grand scheme of what my bike cost, 60 bucks for a pair of tubes is a rounding error. They're just backordered a lot. So buy extras lol. Thanks for this vid!
Ope! I think you have the rear non-drive side brake pad facing the wrong direction. At 37:25 I noticed that the pads are open on one end, I presume to allow new pad inserts to slide out. With the open end facing forward, it seems that the braking force would shove the pad insert forward and out of the pad holder. *Edit: Alao the non-drive front pad is oriented the same way.
Damn but you're right about those brakes, and not only does it have nice curves you can see everything about how it works logically, it just clicks together in your mind in such a satisfying way, and then the pads look like Lego bricks frosting the brake cake.
The frame may not have a true French heritage, but anything from Bilenky and/or (the late) Brian Baylis is still a fine piece of craftsmanship! I do like seeing a silver derailleur on the bike, but are the Rene Herse brakes really better than the Pauls? They are certainly more slender and graceful. Nice to see such a cool bike!
I doubt many viewers realize just how incredibly close tolerance you are trying to...also easier on better quality wheels. Almost no kne needs that sort of accuracy, but it it really is fun to get one that close. My father used to enjoy using a micrometer on his trying stand and would spend hours in his retirement making cruddy wheels as straight as the most expensive. His idea of relaxing.
It's why you do the outside the rear der. big-big +1 on the chain. Park tools recommends that for chain length as did Sheldon Brown. I've never had it fail that way.
Congrats for the bike, amazing! See the direcction of the brake pads on the left side, I think they are pointing forward the open rubber side, check them...
If I were to spend thousands on a *really* nice bike I'd absolutely go the custom frame route as well. I like to have things just exactly the way I want them and that's almost never the way mass produced bikes are. Heck even right now not a single one of my bikes is stock, I haven't owned a stock bike since I was 16.
I like those tires. Maybe for my Raleigh grand lenton from 1958. But I live in the Arizona desert. So for my other bikes it’s gatorskin or scwalbe big Ben’s. But love the gum wall
Your vids have inspired me to buy a stand... I did my first tune up Thanksgiving day on my Cannondale, in the living room while watching your videos, thanks man...@@bkefrmr
BQ was an excuse to visit the alt LBS 4 times a year. My town is now down to Trek x2, Ski n' campy, Co-op, sorta co-op(REI) and Joey the boutique repair guy. RIP Performance and the alt store.
I love the look of the classic non-aero brake levers. Added bonus, not having to change the bar tape to change the brake housing. Added bonus, housing curves don't have to be sharp. Added bonus, barrel adjusters at the lever. Come to think of it, why did they ever go to aero?
The move to aero levers *did* coincide with Shimano STI introduction, I think. E.g. With Ultegra 6400, they had (at least) 3 brake-lever versions: non-aero, aero and aero-STI. I recently snagged a pair of those non-aero levers in NOS condition. I'm hoping to use them on a future fancy build to combine the vintage aesthetic with reasonable ergonomics. Most non-aero levers you can still buy new don't really work well from the hoods.
You should try inflating the tube a little bit and putting baby powder on it, helps the tube slip into place and you will see dramatically less pinched tubes.
Great video. Maybe it was user error but I had failures with Shimano link pins. I switched to KMC master links for Shimano chains and now use only SRAM that come with master links.
Beautiful bike and well done on the filming and music. I have been running Rene Herse slicks and knobbies on my gravel bike for years. They are fast and comfortable and like the Endurance casing. I also like their Gilles Berthoud saddle over Brooks, but that’s just me. I didn’t know you could build a bike from Rene Herse. How do you start as they are hard to contact.
I really love your content man! In fact so much that you've inspired me to start fixing bikes as a side hustle, and now my friends and coworkers contact me regularly. I still have a lot of learning and planning to do if I want to take it further. What advice would you give to a newb? I'm lucky to have a bike kitchen in our town as well! Keep up the good work, can't wait for the next video!
Love your content and the bike in this video! I have learned so much through your channel. Thank you so much. I noticed that the brake pads might be directional with those removal four dot pads. Does it matter if they are facing in different directions?
Really love the video. I don’t know why but youtube keeps canceling my subscription. I almost have to hit the subscribe button again and again every day😅.
Your brake pad on the non drive train rear is in backwards. The rubber pad will come off in a hard stop. (Keeper flange is on the rear side of the pad)
As a scientist at a research university, I’d like to thank you for your words.
Regarding tubeless, I was convinced by the bike shop guys who assembled my commuter bike, and I’m enjoying it. I can leave 20 minutes before meetings and be confident that I’ll always be there on time. I haven’t had a single flat in 3 years even though I did get some punctures.
This channel is a great place to hang out , reminds me of the blacksmith shop where people just chill there to watch you work and just talk about everything and nothing really , there is something very relaxing to watch a craftsman do his thing , every step looks so easy ………talking while you work , falls into the same category as singing while you play guitar , it takes skill ! Keep on keeping on bike farmer .
I love bike content that involves the specific details of every component, like manufacturer, country of origin, popularity in cycling circles, etc. All those tidbits!
I enjoy watching your bike content bike farmer. I disagree with part of your opinions on media. The fact that you claim the legacy Media can be trusted when they can be one of the biggest perpetrators of propaganda and misinformation. Case in point the two-year run of the Russia hoax which turned out to complete lies fabricated to discredit a sitting president. Post the Mueller investigation and the unraveling of the lies all that was shown to be completely fabricated. Not surprisingly they never apologized and admitted that they were spreading misinformation which further discredits thier credibility. Like I said I love your bike stuff but it might be better just to stick to bikes. Perhaps you can start a second channel where you discuss your opinions about politics and culture.
It's so much fun to see you get so excited about these fancy bikes! This is such a pretty bike. This is how I also feel about guitars: They are absolutely works of art that also have jobs to do. And like a lot of guitars, this bike could be on display in a museum for its aesthetics alone. I love how you can go from this to a tune up of a 2003 Trek and still be interesting with both. I have one suggestion: When you edit these videos, look for one minute sections you can release as shorts - they can be ads for the long video, and you don't have to film anything extra. Keep up the great work and come on 60K!!!
I love this video, Andy. Anytime you want to post a video of working on a higher end bike (vintage or otherwise), please do. The classic bikes are just a breed apart, though, in my estimation. There is something so satisfying working with quality parts and tight tolerances. It is also worth seeing how your passion for quality comes out while you are working on bikes at this level. Also, that bike is so sweet--I definitely think you need to consider one for your bike stable.
Velocity wheels and related parts are awesome. Located in Grand Rapids, Michigan, they are somewhat local to me and are a favorite of our LBS. Thanks for showcasing their products. Thanks, too, for your comments at the "truth stand." Spot on with the discussion regarding facts vs. opinion.
Thanks to you I’ve found the wonders of Tri Flow
Thanks hey!!
Love this @bikefarmer! Bruce introduced me to the Rando life and Bicycle Quarterly many years ago and, well, it's never been the same. When he bought this bike I told him it needed fenders. Glad to see it's finally going to happen! Great video and can't wait for part 2!
I would recommend overlapping the rim tape around the valve hole for any tubeless job. I've gotten burned on this in the past where corrosion around the naked valve hole caused leaks that the tubeless valve gasket could not seal. Presumably from chemicals in the sealant reacting with grime and salt and water. Who knows?
To solve the problem, I drilled the presta hole out to Schrader sized and put a tubeless Schrader valve in with overlapping tape at the valve hole.
WOW those brakes really are gorgeous.
Thanks for helping me get a great start to my day -- it was an important vibey addition to the egg sandwich, coffee, watching the first heavy snowfall of the season... I'm going to head over to the bike shop shortly to continue working on my winter bike build, and likely carry a half-junked Miyata 610 strapped to my messenger bag so I can remove the chain and get to maybe un-junking that frame. Cheers Bike Farmer!
Amazing they can get the spring tension so perfect without an adjuster.
Most honest review of RH Extralights I’ve ever heard 💯
Thanks!
You're like watching a kid at Christmas. Great video. Look forward to the next one.
Great video...what a beautiful bike. Can't wait for part 2
Love the videos, always a joy to listen and watch. Keep up the great work!
Thanks hey!!
@@bkefrmr quick heads up, not sure if you realize this but a roadlink doesn't add any extra to the total capacity of the derailer, it just makes it so that a derailer can handle a larger rear cog.
@ I understand this is correct in theory, but in reality, I believe I just squeezed and extra 6t of actual capacity out of that derailleur by adding a road link. I’ve read the Wolf Tooth webpage. To me, it reads as CYA.
@ interesting, I’ll have to try that out next time I have that issue. The real hack is the suntour 3 pulley derailers that have monstrous chain wrap and are beautiful. Only downside is that they aren’t indexed
As always I learn so much from the Bike Farmer! Great video. Thanks, Key West Rick
I appreciate your knowledge that you share.
Thanks hey!!
For those rusty or out of spec canti posts, I got a tool that is basically a little t-handle reamer that you run onto the post, it machines off any out of round or mushroomed bits. Makes the brakes fit as intended. It was only a few bucks from QBP or one of the parts suppliers and saves a ton of work. A lot of the cheaper mtbs with cantis have out of round posts that make the cheapo vbrakes stick. Fixes this perfectly.
I got some furniture polish and tried it on a bike, and OMG I cant believe that I never did that before. Its like waxing a car, only faster. That bike looks fantastic.
I’ve been using furniture polish on my motorcycles for decades. It works great, doesn’t it?
@@IncogNito-gg6uhyes
Custom is very good choice and can be the thing that will make most people get in and stay into biking.
I don't think I'd ever own a vintage road bike. My only bike (so far 😏) is a hardtail that i use to commite to work when im feeling dangerous. But i sure do appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of these bikes. And i love watching them be updated and improved
You really are a unique person. In every way I prefer working on high end bikes in my shop. I won't buy them because I believe bikes hit their zenith in The 90's and always ride butted steel. Even I say high end bikes are more reliable, easier to work on and never come back for warrenty (I guess technically, the old Treks you work on are considered high end). BTW, today's choice of music is outstanding!!!
I love the lounge piano music!
Thanks Andy! This one was particularly interesting as I had never seen some of these components before.
Loved this. Is so funny the your video you did with Jeff from bike jerks, lead me to Stephen Bilenky, and my new Bilenky signature tour light, it’s also a work of art. I agree for what I paid I would have for a mid range off the peg bike and here I got to pick everything I wanted and support a small business❤
As we say in the biz: “Relatively ballin”
Great video
Wonderful video. Optional Suggestion from a bike mechanic. Overlap tubeless tape, saves the valve from getting cut. Most manufacturers recommended two layers over 40 psi. Install tubes with more air and preferably with baby powder to help the tube settle within the tire and lets the tire slide within the tubeless rim profile. Polish spray on the allow brake track is controversial. 😂. Adding links to chain ends up adding three chain pins. Not ideal. New chain is recommended. Adding a wolf tooth road link on vintage dura ace versus vintage stock xtr rear derailleur, not my bag. The bike has an identity, wolf tooth add on sours the soup. He’s lucky you are working on it! It’s a special bike that needs experience. 😊. You’ve got it with that awesomeness regarding the cantilever stud issue.
Saw this bike in Denver at NAHBS in 2015. Worth every penny!
I prefer to overlap the tape at the valve hole cuz the tape kinda softens the edge of the hole in the aluminum a little when you poke that valve through, which I think slightly reduces the risk of getting a hole at the base of the valve stem.
No idea if it actually makes a difference but I like to imagine it does. Probably matters more with cheap rims that aren't finished as nicely. I dunno I haven't had a broken valve stem in a while so I'm gonna keep doing it.
I freakin love the sound of cables going through cable stops though, that's niiiice whhiiiiiizz
Enjoying watching the fancy bike videos. I can highly recommend TPU tubes with Rene Herse tyres, lighter and fatter rolling. It's proported they are more puncture resistant also. Cheap ones can be had on eBay for the price of a butyl tube.
I work at the factory where these Gatorskins where made. Love them on my selfbuild retro racer too. Tough as hell and yes they are put together by hand. But I know the struggle of getting them of the rim very well. Had a flat somewhere in nowhere once, because of a nail and had to repair the tube. Took me 30min and I was lucky I had my metal lifts, because the platic ones will break. Never had Rene Herse tires not even sure if you can get them here in Germany.
Tubeless is awesome for commuting.
Several times now I've been very glad to have my commuter set up tubeless.
No one enjoys replacing a tube in the pouring rain.
After 40plus years of riding tubes, I'm not going back.
This is very interesting toe as a mechanic. My experience has been that tubeless indeed performs and rides amazing, but isn't reliable much above 50psi. What are you running?
@@MHH3180 I think some of the newer sealants (Silca especially) are supposed to seal much better at road pressures than the sealants brought over from MTB. But I have no personal experience, I ride 33 CX tires at 40-50 PSI for the street (using Stans) and love getting home from a ride and seeing all the blobs of sealant where I didn't even notice on the ride.
Ahhhh this was such a joy to watch.
Thank you for talking about tubes/tubeless. I was just going down the rabbit hole to figure out if they were actually worth it!
I've been commuting on tubeless for six years and haven't had a single puncture. It doesn't seal up as easily if you run higher pressures and skinny tires, but I've got 650b x 47 tires that I like to keep around 40 PSI and it works great.
Dream bike and what an enjoyable build!
Daaaaannnngggg that's purty!! Can't wait for the fender episode - I'll get to see what my builder went through for my custom fancybike lol.
But speaking of TPU tubes: They're probably the cheapest (per gram saved) _and_ the most useful way to save weight. On my new fancybike, I weighed one of my spare butyl tubes and one of the René Herse ones I spec'd for my bike, and it was butyl 226g - TPU 46g = 180g difference (650b size). Times 2 wheels = 360g or ¾ pound off the bike. Because I carry a spare, that's 540g or 1lb 3oz. less weight as I ride. Just because of the tubes. Add in the weight savings of the Herse Ultralight tires - in my case another 400g - and we're talking about shedding some serious weight. And getting a much-improved ride at the same time! Much better value than those titanium bottle cage bolts some people buy lol.
I would totally put some Herse TPUs on this bike! It deserves them! lol.
I like the Herse TPUs because they have a metal valve stem and they sell a patch kit (regular patches won't work). Yeah, they're bloody pricey, but in the grand scheme of what my bike cost, 60 bucks for a pair of tubes is a rounding error. They're just backordered a lot. So buy extras lol.
Thanks for this vid!
A great bike build, Andy. Keep it up
Gràcies from Vilagrassa!
When you started singing "brass washer" I had the same thing in my head 😂
Ope! I think you have the rear non-drive side brake pad facing the wrong direction. At 37:25 I noticed that the pads are open on one end, I presume to allow new pad inserts to slide out. With the open end facing forward, it seems that the braking force would shove the pad insert forward and out of the pad holder.
*Edit: Alao the non-drive front pad is oriented the same way.
Yup yup!
Beautiful craftsmanship !
Wonderful video!!!! Wonderful way to end a good day today.
That was fun!
Damn but you're right about those brakes, and not only does it have nice curves you can see everything about how it works logically, it just clicks together in your mind in such a satisfying way, and then the pads look like Lego bricks frosting the brake cake.
The frame may not have a true French heritage, but anything from Bilenky and/or (the late) Brian Baylis is still a fine piece of craftsmanship! I do like seeing a silver derailleur on the bike, but are the Rene Herse brakes really better than the Pauls? They are certainly more slender and graceful. Nice to see such a cool bike!
Your truthing stand commentary reminds me of the plot of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance - seeking truth.
15:54 I WAS IN THE POOL!!!!!!!
A work of art, thanks man
2:03 They're MAFACing brakes, the best MAFACing brakes out there.
Love the bike, love your enthusiasm.
Gorgeous bike, tasteful facelift 🤘
i can't believe you run such high psi... my rene tires like to be at 35! and i also still use tubes.
Low normal XTR are my fave rds
Paired with 7800 shifters they work so well
I doubt many viewers realize just how incredibly close tolerance you are trying to...also easier on better quality wheels. Almost no kne needs that sort of accuracy, but it it really is fun to get one that close. My father used to enjoy using a micrometer on his trying stand and would spend hours in his retirement making cruddy wheels as straight as the most expensive. His idea of relaxing.
I'd like to find a Rene Herse built by Mark Nobilette. I know he made a few!. Great bike Andy!
Agree absolutely on the tube versus tubeless issues.... too messy.
It's why you do the outside the rear der. big-big +1 on the chain. Park tools recommends that for chain length as did Sheldon Brown. I've never had it fail that way.
That was great Andy!
that True-Zoom was exactly what the doctor ordered
Giving you a comment to boost you up
I didn't know Mike Kone own Rene Herse at one time. I purchase some vintage gear from Mike, super helpful guy.
Wow, very nice. Mightaswell upgrade the brakes because the Paul's are so desirable, you can flip them and make a profit
Congrats for the bike, amazing! See the direcction of the brake pads on the left side, I think they are pointing forward the open rubber side, check them...
I came here to say that too…
That's a cool bike!
If I were to spend thousands on a *really* nice bike I'd absolutely go the custom frame route as well.
I like to have things just exactly the way I want them and that's almost never the way mass produced bikes are. Heck even right now not a single one of my bikes is stock, I haven't owned a stock bike since I was 16.
Great fancy bike and video,!
I like those tires. Maybe for my Raleigh grand lenton from 1958. But I live in the Arizona desert. So for my other bikes it’s gatorskin or scwalbe big Ben’s. But love the gum wall
Lived in AZ, the goathead issue went away when i went tubeless
@@olirueda6907I wear my tires out before I get a flat now. That’s the way I like it :)
Another great video... A couple of missed OPE opportunities...
So many! I edited out like 3 hours worth of fucking around.
Your vids have inspired me to buy a stand... I did my first tune up Thanksgiving day on my Cannondale, in the living room while watching your videos, thanks man...@@bkefrmr
Not a roadie, or a randonneur, at least not yet, but dang these fancy road bikes are addicting.
Great video!!! Thank you
BF just achieved #BikeNerd Grand Master status with this one.
BQ was an excuse to visit the alt LBS 4 times a year. My town is now down to Trek x2, Ski n' campy, Co-op, sorta co-op(REI) and Joey the boutique repair guy. RIP Performance and the alt store.
I want that bicycle! 🥰🥰🥰🥰
I hope that someday you get to the truthing stand and proclaim how great hydraulic disc brakes are.😊
23:05-you missed an opportunity - wheel is STILL TRUE
The left brake pad on the rear is in backwards. It's going to slide out of it's mount out under braking. Front left same thing
Yes. I’ve been told.
I love the look of the classic non-aero brake levers. Added bonus, not having to change the bar tape to change the brake housing. Added bonus, housing curves don't have to be sharp. Added bonus, barrel adjusters at the lever. Come to think of it, why did they ever go to aero?
The move to aero levers *did* coincide with Shimano STI introduction, I think. E.g. With Ultegra 6400, they had (at least) 3 brake-lever versions: non-aero, aero and aero-STI. I recently snagged a pair of those non-aero levers in NOS condition. I'm hoping to use them on a future fancy build to combine the vintage aesthetic with reasonable ergonomics. Most non-aero levers you can still buy new don't really work well from the hoods.
You should try inflating the tube a little bit and putting baby powder on it, helps the tube slip into place and you will see dramatically less pinched tubes.
Absolutely
Nice bike. Unfortunately I haven’t had good experiences with gator skins (3 x tyre wall splits) or A23 rims (don’t build ‘round’ easily)
Great video. Maybe it was user error but I had failures with Shimano link pins. I switched to KMC master links for Shimano chains and now use only SRAM that come with master links.
"if you're followed by a team car..." that statement may apply to most of the high end componentry that's been pushed on the mkt over the past decade.
Really a beautiful bike😍
@BikeFarmer very nice build! one small correction: the rear brake pad on the none drive side needs a 180 degree rotation.
Actually it’s both front and rear! I missed it! Yay comments! 🤣😂
Beautiful bike and well done on the filming and music. I have been running Rene Herse slicks and knobbies on my gravel bike for years. They are fast and comfortable and like the Endurance casing. I also like their Gilles Berthoud saddle over Brooks, but that’s just me. I didn’t know you could build a bike from Rene Herse. How do you start as they are hard to contact.
I really love your content man! In fact so much that you've inspired me to start fixing bikes as a side hustle, and now my friends and coworkers contact me regularly. I still have a lot of learning and planning to do if I want to take it further. What advice would you give to a newb? I'm lucky to have a bike kitchen in our town as well! Keep up the good work, can't wait for the next video!
Love your content and the bike in this video! I have learned so much through your channel. Thank you so much.
I noticed that the brake pads might be directional with those removal four dot pads. Does it matter if they are facing in different directions?
Really love the video. I don’t know why but youtube keeps canceling my subscription. I almost have to hit the subscribe button again and again every day😅.
Measure 3 times cut once... I can totally relate 😁👌
Ooh that’s a fancy bike, but everything gets the furniture polish. :). Reminds me of Henry Rollins when he said. “We are all equal at 7/11”
.....posh bikes FTW!!
I agreed 100%
Its always gonna be worrh ittttt👌😁
Statement of fact - That is a lovely bike, Opinion - I want one!
you need an inline adjuster (on the housing) on brakes of this kind.
Your brake pad on the non drive train rear is in backwards. The rubber pad will come off in a hard stop. (Keeper flange is on the rear side of the pad)
Also the front one. If the rider brakes hard, he will lose both brakes. Hopefully someone will notice!
Algo feeding me your videos quick again ;)
Where do you put the batteries??? I have had the white stuff on Aluminum, it's from excessive sweat.
Are there any resources you like to learn more about cycling in the Driftless?
You know you're a fancy rear brake cable end when you have your own little stainless house to live in...
Thanks BF! By the way, what’s your take on the Spoky/Spokey/Cyclus Spoke Tool as opposed to the loop type that you’re using in this video?
second.greetings from türkiye.
LONG WAYS AWAY! THANKS FOR CLICKING IN!