do you 3D print things yourself or is it purely your buddy? I think it would be cool as hell for you to look up other people's files for miniature drum kits and try to play them like they're real 💯
If you have a soldering iron, you can run it along the seam and melt the two prices together. Works better and for longer than any glue I’ve used for printing.
Makes me wonder if you could make a cymbal using a Direct Metal Laser Sintering technique. Its probably possible, but I don't even wanna imagine the likely expense of doing so.
They do! I've not heard of brass or bronze ones but I think the only reason is that those materials aren't super useful for the things 3D printers are normally used for. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. The only issue might be that things made with that kind of printer are slightly porous, and that's probably bad for the structure of something this thin
The cymbal industry has gone unchanged for years. The top manufacturers have long been stagnant, making the same cymbals out of the same boring bronze, using the same archaic manufacturing methods as they have been for literally hundreds of years. But these two resourceful young guys decided they weren't going to stand for that, and their startup is poised to shake up the industry as we know it. Gone are the metals, mallets, and heavy machinery of a typical cymbal manufacturing facility, these young lads are set on bringing cymbal-making into the 21st century with advanced proprietary manufacturing processes that combine specialized adhesives with cutting-edge fused filament fabrication technology to create the world's first metal-less cymbals, an act of defiance towards the conventions of the unchanging industry. Their novel polymer-based formula gives their cymbals a truly exotic timbre devoid of irritating ringing and ear-shattering crashes, a much-needed breath of fresh air from the typical played-out, clichéd racket of bronze cymbals. These cymbals could be the long-awaited key to revolutionizing the cymbal industry for good.
3D printing guy here to weigh in. Using compatible glues for each material is very important for a good bond. Not all glues will work well on some materials. That being said, there isn't much you can do to printed ABS to make it structural enough to stand up to a drum stick.
print entire thing flat on the buildplate and then heat it up to deform it to shape. They will not split apart like that. Not only glue can fail but also it makes the material very non uniform, also the way it was printed, if you look at layer lines, it have no structural integrity in a planes that it needs that strenght.
To be fair, barring friction welding or 3D pen welding, PETG just doesn't have much you can do to fit it together. There's almost no glue that'd stick to it
@@HidekiShinichi couldn't a winding Technique work? like what you said, but we just spiral the whole thing inwards with a slight overlap with the previously expunged material? i don't own a cymbol. i don't own a 3d printer.
@@kalibuskristof2174 no. If you qould use a spiral only it would not be strong enought. You need a pattern that crosses, where you have material going 2 different directions for strenght.
The best part is that as a trained drummer we know our guy is able to really control his strength on those sticks, so you know he was smashing them when he needed to
You absolutely should ask your 3d printing pal to try to make some cymbals out of metal infused filament, especially because there are some that are infused with bronze
@@Omlet221 Yep, pretty much. Some metal-infused filaments are *slightly* conductive, so you could use them as really crappy wires, but in order to get something even close to resembling metal, you'd need a really high-concentration filament. Those kinds of filaments can end up wrecking your 3D printer's nozzle as the metal particles scrape away at the metal of the nozzle, drastically reducing its lifespan. To get a proper, real metal 3D print, you'd need a Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) printer, which uses a laser to melt and solidify metal powder, or a very special type of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling - where they melt a filament down and extrude it out a nozzle - the most common type of 3D printer). The absolute cheapest 3D printer I could find that is capable of 3D printing metal was $5,000, the MakerBot Method, however that can only do 316L stainless steel, and you then have to send your part in to MakerBot for them to put it in a machine that partially melts and fuses the whole thing together, since a printer capable of 1380°C would be... a little too hardcore for the average consumer. But, stainless steel is a pretty bad material for cymbals. The cheapest that I could find that can do bronze and copper, like with cymbals, was the Xact Metal XM200G, which costs $92,000!! Definitely not something you can get as a hobbyist unless you're filthy rich.
@@raptor2265you can print melt out filaments with an ender 3 with a ruby nozzle but the metal it produces is porous and not really great but it has all the benefits of metal past that. The much more productive way to 3d print metal is casting with casting resin. I've been looking into a bunch of wierd filaments for a cane v2 first was ABS and after 4 years there are some minor cracks from when my friend tried hanging off the balcony with it.... The balcony broke
Massive points to your 3D printing mate, CF Nylon ist NOF FUN TO PRINT and the prints turned out quite nicely. Also condolences to his nozzle as CF filament grind it down like crazy. And massive respect for the tpu turning out so well as well!
The TPU and Nylon surviving the longest definitely makes since since both of those materials are the most flexible and hence least brittle. It would take a larger printer with a large print bed but printing the symbol piece horizontally instead of vertically like these ones were judging by the layer lines and how they broke, may give some interesting and more durable results if you ever get the chance.
This is the most informative 3D printing filament guide I've ever viewed. I'm not even joking, all those stress tests I've seen and I never got an idea what it might feel like to hold, or throw at a wall!
For a more all-encompassing, practical guide to filaments, their properties, how to safely and effectively print with them, their overall difficulty, and their relative cost, I highly recommend a video by Zach Freedman called "I Tested (Almost) EVERY FILAMENT". He goes through each one in a very quick, streamlined, and fun way, but it's also super informative. That said, unfortunately, he doesn't hit his prints with a stick or throw them at a wall, so we'll still need Dank for that kind of testing.
It does miss one thing - the failures are more due to how these were printed and less about the materials. The layer lines are almost always the weakest point, so if you orient those correctly you can end up with a much, much stronger print.
Printing orientation would be an interesting thing to test. These are printed vertically which probably isn't the best since it's going to stress layer adhesion a lot.
I can tell you from first hand experience that ABS is terrifying to work with and almost never comes out properly. I'm extremely impressed that you guys actually managed to put something together that vaguely resembles a symbol out of ABS!
from what I've read, ABS is a super temperamental material for printing. everything need to be just the right temp during the print, or it'll fall apart. bed temp, extrusion temp, even the ambient air has to play along.
I reckon, with a couple modifications to the slicing, you could end up with some fairly strong 3D printed cymbals. If the print was sliced radially or cross-hatched (alternating direction each layer), you may end up with stronger quadrants.
Yeah, this is basically what I thought - Different slicer and maybe replace the straight joins with jigsaw-puzzle style joints, maybe slanted very slightly at the edge so they cant slide past vertically. For the slicer pattern I first thought "What if the lines were circularly-oriented instead of all parralel, then remembered space-filling curves / fractals /patterns exist like the Hilbert Curve. If the slicer tried to draw each layer of volumes to avoid lines from layers from touching it might give greater strength; perhaps even just tossing in a non-parralel layer every now and then would be enough to stall crack propogation.
I bet if you put some kind of interconnecting tabs to "clip" the pieces in place, you could get the pieces to stay together better. The extra surface area for glue should at least keep the pieces from splitting. Also you're totally right about glues reacting differently to the plastic types. Some filament types even allow you to "fuse" pieces together using acetone, heat, or another solvent.
Hi! Composite engineer here. You might want to set your printer to print along the perimeter instead of along the radius. This will prevent cracking from the edges up to the bell. Also, the glue joint butt joint will stiffen up the cymbals along the quadrant lines, that's why the Carbon/Nylon version seems to be holding up well : stiffness should be the highest and will be distributed more evenly, less concentrated stress along the glue line. I would suggest, instead of butt joint gluing, slightly thinning/scarfing the edges so that you can overlap each quadrant to have more gluing surface. Cheers!
Printing them radially would work, but you would need a lot of support to get those parts printed, also no doubt soluble supports as otherwise you would get horrible marks at the bottom (unless you're fine with the bottom finish not being OK).
3D printing metal has really come a long way. A lot of different alloys can be “printed” with additive machining. You might talk to your mate into going halfsies with you on a new metal rig. I’m a machinist so this is the content I live for; that and of course your regular scheduled programming.
Don’t metal prints need to be sintered or something so that the parts don’t fall apart, or is that something that was only a concern with older machines? Or are there fdm style metal printers now?
I'm actually surprised how neat the percussive sound they produce is. Probably has more to do with technique, mics, and EQing, but still. Someone in marching band way back in the day told how anything could technically be a percussion instrument.
Honestly, anything vaguely percussive can make a really great improvised drumset. Get a piece of wood, magasines a few cushions and drumsticks and if you have a proper sense of timing, iy will sound great
I make beats on anything: water bottles, bus seats, my bag, oranges, they all have places with different densities that are pitched different when you tap. Its fun to locate them.
As someone who works with 3D printers and such, what I would recommend instead of just gluing the peices together is to first glue, then use a soldering iron to basically melt the pieces together
@@selfloathinggameingYeah we do tend to do that, i suggested the idea just because I'd rather see these symbols shatter properly instead of just breaking at the glue point
Sorry I didn’t mean for this to come out passive aggressive if it did it’s supposed to be sarcastic because I really like the content that this guy puts out
I feel like the cymbals may have held up a little better if the print bed was large enough to print it all in one piece, probably in a circular pattern. Also, I would highly recommend printing them in a B8 filament. 😉
my thoughts exactly. if you had a large enough printer and could get the slicer to extrude in a circle I think it'd be much much stronger. it would still sound like wood hitting thin plastic, but they would have higher survival rate.
people think 3D printing is a process where you just draw the shape and get one. Sadly it is not the case and you still have to Design For Manufacturing
I'd recommend designing an interlocking edge on the quarter pieces if your 3D printer can accomodate it. The two remaining cymbal materials would likely benefit from the design change.
Seeing them plastic cymbals get hit and how they wobble and break, made me realize how much ducken abuse actual symbols have to endure, and this over prolonged periods of time. M8, actual brass symbals have my respect, way stronger then my will to live!
I have been a musician for years but only started drumming a year ago, and it was because I saw a bunch of your drumming vids. So thank you for making it look as fun as it is.
Keyed edges might be better for this than the straight edges. When you glue them together it's not in one big fault line, so it might hold together better. Something for the ol' mate to consider for Destruct-O Cymbals 2.0
Yeah, came here to say this myself -- dovetail joints would communicate the force with less of a focused point of failure. Tapering the edges so there's some overlap would help too, by making the shear plane non-perpendicular and increasing the surface area for the glue to bond to. Might also help to slice it differently so that there aren't straight-line seams in the plastic itself. I'm not 100% sure if it would make a difference or if it would just break differently. If it's possible to have multiple layers that don't have parallel grain, THAT would help, but I don't know if that would be too thick.
I hate how ridiculous you are with this stuff and I LOVE IT. You are a blessing to the drumming community with your videos mate. This is why I am SUBBED. I need ridiculousness lol
3d printed metal is a thing, but is unfortunately very expensive. While you can 3d print metal with a regular 3d printer it requires a few modifications and is a pain to do. You might be able to find a place online that will print your set in bronze once you have finalised your design
@@nickrustyson8124 potentially, there might be a place out there that could print it in one piece (I haven't looked into it much but I know of some fairly large printers)
Usually the better way to do it is to 3D print a mould negative for metal casting. Print the thing, smash it between some clay or suitable sand, then pour in liquid aluminum or whatever.
I’d say the best case scenario’s for this would be prototyping (as 3D printing is already used so much for) practice (as you already stated) or triggering them and using them as electronic cymbals
That PETG one definitely had trouble cause of the filament change - it really doesn't like cooling down much between layers, and the color change means the first roll ran out and had to get a second one put in, which introduces a significant weak point
TPU is an awesome material. I've used it in the past to 3d print prosthetic finger tips, and robot wheels. PETG is also super solid and I think it might deserve another shot.
I'd argue PETG is easier to print than PLA if you have a heated bed. It is my go to filament. Yeah I think he can try another shot with higher printing temp.
@@someonestolemyname I've found the exact opposite. PETG will not stick to my heated bed no matter what temperature settings I have or how well I clean the bed. Instead it sticks exclusively to the nozzle, again no matter how well I level the bed
@@MarioMonte13 I am printing on glass bed though, maybe that has an effect? I don't think I had any issue with it on painter's tape and glue either. I don't have the luxury of modern print beds.
You should try Acetone slurry glue for the ABS prints. You put the excess supports and some acetone in a glass container, let in melt down into a slurry and apply that where you want it to join. Having joints of some sort or even puzzle piece like sections between the pieces would strengthen them, since a straight edge is the weakest. (Please wear a respirator when dealing with acetone)
I mean, 3D printing it in metal is *incredibly* expensive. The cheapest selective laser sintering (SLS) 3D printer that I could find that's capable of printing copper and bronze parts was $92,000, and it probably isn't big enough for a full-sized cymbal! And if you were to commission a company to print out the part for you, it'd probably cost at least 4 figures. At that price range, you might as well just buy a real cymbal, lol.
@@joshr408 You _can_ get even 80% metal with BASF Ultrafuse filaments, there's 2 grades of stainless steel and some other stuff too, the magic happens when you sinter the part later. Prints like some crappy filament and will be quite weak afterwards, but in any printer pretty much. After sintered it's pretty much a stainless steel part. The filament does cost an arm and a leg and the sintering is an extra on top of that depending on where you live (I've read about you having like up to 3 sinter processes per roll on it's cost and the rest you pay for). Those rolls are pretty funny, they're like 3x the weight of a similar quantity roll in filament meters.
This was awesome. Super informative. Really makes you wonder how many different types of plastic Roland and the others went through before they found the right combos
This is such a cool experiment. Also, free drum concert? I remember the first DankPods video I watched being a weird iPod accessory video that popped into my feed. Absolutely loved it and every video I've seen since then, but to delve deeper and see the intelligence and pure talent behind the camera has been such a fascinating experience.
As someone who owns a printing business, I can tell you every symbol that broke not at the glue broke at layer lines. If they were printed in a different orientation, those would not be weak spots they would support it plus, you need different glues for different plastics when 3-D printing.
The TPU or the Nylon Carbonfiber Cymbal would actually fit really well into a practice set if you for example live in an apartment where you cant make too much noise but you still want that realism feel. You could also just use an electric drum kit, but you could use a few practice pads, 2 16¨ cymbals as crashes, 1 20¨ cymbal for the ride, and 2 10¨ as a hi-hat, and there you have a complete kit :D
3D printing nerd here: I noticed something that could compromise the structural integrity. The pieces were printed vertically, so hitting it was putting stress on it in a way that is dependent on layer adhesion, and not the strength of the actual materials. Printing the pieces flat on a regular desktop printer, or in one piece on something like a Kobra 2 Max would make them way stronger.
I know you're not a teaching channel, but man. I learn SO MUCH about drums and audiophile stuff watching your vids, they're super interesting and its just entertaining as all hell to watch. As for the cymbals themselves I love how each material had its own "sound". Super neat to watch and hear, can't wait to see the next vid!
Fantastic video but a couple of things I had in mind. For the structure, I wonder if it would be doable to do these in thirds or something as less separation, the better. And also maybe some flexible coating like plastidip or a hard resin like epoxy would be beneficial. Or hell maybe a full blown cymbal made of resin would be awesome to watch the creation of.
I think the fails in the material itself could be mitigated by not printing all the layers in the same direction. The joints might be a challenge though but maybe there's a way to make like a channel or something on the edges that the parts snap into and can be glued there.
You and your 3d printer friend should try to do a snare or something where you can put your own head on it, it obviously would be a more intensive project and would take a long time but I think it would be hilarious
"Plastic" might be a bit of an overstatement for tpu lol You can fight me over semantics but for all intents and purposes of printing its basically rubber
Re-melting is needed to make regular FDM prints to last. In this case, mold release (heat resistant paint works in some applications) and two cymbals, the printed part sandwiched between them, pop in an oven. You will struggle to break solid PLA, it is very hard material and is one of the best materials for any instruments. It acts very much like wood. But when printed we have sometimes only third of the surface of the lines melted together, and the melting does not happen very deep, so we are linking the polymers at the very surface. Re-melting is one way to make it truly solid and have it be one, uniform material with polymer links going all directions in the same, chaotic way. To make it even better, if it is cooled down very slowly it can become semicrystalline; instead of random "freezing" of the polymers (amorphous state) larger grains of well organized polymers will form. That means they are packed more efficiently, polymers have more links with each other and it makes it even harder and more temperature resistant and should, at least in theory, have better properties for musical instruments. FDM prints have sort of "wood grains", it has different properties depending on the orientation, like wood does. Also, there is non-planar printing which probably is the way to print these. The layers in non-planar printing are not flat, they can curve... Which means that these "cymbals" were printed the worst possible orientation for the purpose, and the reason is obvious: planar printing these would've required TONS of support material that is wasted, and printing would've taken 10 times longer if we printed these flat. Now they are printed vertically, which is always the weakest direction. Tension pulling or shearing layers apart is 1:3 to 1:6th weaker compared to optimal (planar), in the best cases.. with non-planar printing it would be probably ten times stronger.. But that does not negate the need for the support material, unless we hack a touch probe and create an off-set mesh.. and then print on top of a cymbal..
imo they should have printed them in one piece, i get that that would require an extremely large print bed but still it would have taken out the area that constantly fails
Don't worry none of this is going to hit the bin, all useful scraps and bits for my other strange hobbies/videos I do!
You could decorate a wall or a fence with the scraps. Like an old wagon wheel. 🌈
do you 3D print things yourself or is it purely your buddy? I think it would be cool as hell for you to look up other people's files for miniature drum kits and try to play them like they're real 💯
Ausie to English translation: "what is left of those cymbals will be tested by 1 Grit and put into a diff".
If you have a soldering iron, you can run it along the seam and melt the two prices together. Works better and for longer than any glue I’ve used for printing.
How about 3d printed drum sticks that would be epic!
You should make wooden cymbals and use brass drumsticks.
Utterly deranged. I love it.
That's a xylophone mate
That's fucked up
This wood be asking a lot, but maybe bamboo too?
The Big Brass wood love this idea
I have a 3d printer and the idea of trying to get plastic to ring like copper is the funniest thing imaginable
Isn't there copper filament?
@@arran4285 Yeah, but it's still little particles of copper suspended in plastic. The extra mass/stiffness might make it ring only a little better
Makes me wonder if you could make a cymbal using a Direct Metal Laser Sintering technique. Its probably possible, but I don't even wanna imagine the likely expense of doing so.
Don’t metal printers exist? Of course it won’t sound as good as a classic cymbal, but 100% bronze printing is possible.
They do! I've not heard of brass or bronze ones but I think the only reason is that those materials aren't super useful for the things 3D printers are normally used for. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. The only issue might be that things made with that kind of printer are slightly porous, and that's probably bad for the structure of something this thin
Pretentious cymbal reviewer: Beautiful, flat and short decay, good stick definition, rides well, buttery and dark, meticulously crafted
The cymbal industry has gone unchanged for years. The top manufacturers have long been stagnant, making the same cymbals out of the same boring bronze, using the same archaic manufacturing methods as they have been for literally hundreds of years. But these two resourceful young guys decided they weren't going to stand for that, and their startup is poised to shake up the industry as we know it. Gone are the metals, mallets, and heavy machinery of a typical cymbal manufacturing facility, these young lads are set on bringing cymbal-making into the 21st century with advanced proprietary manufacturing processes that combine specialized adhesives with cutting-edge fused filament fabrication technology to create the world's first metal-less cymbals, an act of defiance towards the conventions of the unchanging industry. Their novel polymer-based formula gives their cymbals a truly exotic timbre devoid of irritating ringing and ear-shattering crashes, a much-needed breath of fresh air from the typical played-out, clichéd racket of bronze cymbals. These cymbals could be the long-awaited key to revolutionizing the cymbal industry for good.
More like maliciously crafted
Nice to see you here man
Designed and made in aus.
Beautifully written old chap
The 3D printed cymbals sound like when you miss a note in a rhythm game and there’s just a bit of the music missing from the song lol
These are a lot of hobbies that, when combined, bring out their respective worst
10/10
427/10 likes.
Like speed solving Rubik’s cube and top fuel drag racing!
The useleness of these cymbals makes me feel better about my existence.
or because you are you are useless you cannot figure out a use
that's the spirit
Wow this is such a wholesome comment, really brightened my day haha
💀
3D printing guy here to weigh in. Using compatible glues for each material is very important for a good bond. Not all glues will work well on some materials. That being said, there isn't much you can do to printed ABS to make it structural enough to stand up to a drum stick.
Definitely, i think as a solid piece or even melted together or with a 3d pen might have made them stronger
print entire thing flat on the buildplate and then heat it up to deform it to shape.
They will not split apart like that. Not only glue can fail but also it makes the material very non uniform, also the way it was printed, if you look at layer lines, it have no structural integrity in a planes that it needs that strenght.
To be fair, barring friction welding or 3D pen welding, PETG just doesn't have much you can do to fit it together. There's almost no glue that'd stick to it
@@HidekiShinichi couldn't a winding Technique work? like what you said, but we just spiral the whole thing inwards with a slight overlap with the previously expunged material? i don't own a cymbol. i don't own a 3d printer.
@@kalibuskristof2174 no. If you qould use a spiral only it would not be strong enought.
You need a pattern that crosses, where you have material going 2 different directions for strenght.
I love how he waits for the sound to "play out" after hitting a piece of plastic with wood
The best part is that as a trained drummer we know our guy is able to really control his strength on those sticks, so you know he was smashing them when he needed to
You absolutely should ask your 3d printing pal to try to make some cymbals out of metal infused filament, especially because there are some that are infused with bronze
I’m pretty sure those are just to look sparkly. It would probably just act like whatever plastic it’s infused into.
@@Omlet221 Yep, pretty much. Some metal-infused filaments are *slightly* conductive, so you could use them as really crappy wires, but in order to get something even close to resembling metal, you'd need a really high-concentration filament. Those kinds of filaments can end up wrecking your 3D printer's nozzle as the metal particles scrape away at the metal of the nozzle, drastically reducing its lifespan.
To get a proper, real metal 3D print, you'd need a Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) printer, which uses a laser to melt and solidify metal powder, or a very special type of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling - where they melt a filament down and extrude it out a nozzle - the most common type of 3D printer). The absolute cheapest 3D printer I could find that is capable of 3D printing metal was $5,000, the MakerBot Method, however that can only do 316L stainless steel, and you then have to send your part in to MakerBot for them to put it in a machine that partially melts and fuses the whole thing together, since a printer capable of 1380°C would be... a little too hardcore for the average consumer.
But, stainless steel is a pretty bad material for cymbals. The cheapest that I could find that can do bronze and copper, like with cymbals, was the Xact Metal XM200G, which costs $92,000!! Definitely not something you can get as a hobbyist unless you're filthy rich.
@@raptor2265you can print melt out filaments with an ender 3 with a ruby nozzle but the metal it produces is porous and not really great but it has all the benefits of metal past that. The much more productive way to 3d print metal is casting with casting resin. I've been looking into a bunch of wierd filaments for a cane v2 first was ABS and after 4 years there are some minor cracks from when my friend tried hanging off the balcony with it.... The balcony broke
Metal 3D printing needs a different machine (that costs tens of thousands instead of the usual hundreds)
not 3ds printing metal, using metal infused filament, it's still plastic
Massive points to your 3D printing mate, CF Nylon ist NOF FUN TO PRINT and the prints turned out quite nicely. Also condolences to his nozzle as CF filament grind it down like crazy. And massive respect for the tpu turning out so well as well!
Can't see any resemblance to layer lines on the carbon fiber nylon part, could that maybe be SLS?
The TPU and Nylon surviving the longest definitely makes since since both of those materials are the most flexible and hence least brittle. It would take a larger printer with a large print bed but printing the symbol piece horizontally instead of vertically like these ones were judging by the layer lines and how they broke, may give some interesting and more durable results if you ever get the chance.
This is the most informative 3D printing filament guide I've ever viewed. I'm not even joking, all those stress tests I've seen and I never got an idea what it might feel like to hold, or throw at a wall!
For a more all-encompassing, practical guide to filaments, their properties, how to safely and effectively print with them, their overall difficulty, and their relative cost, I highly recommend a video by Zach Freedman called "I Tested (Almost) EVERY FILAMENT". He goes through each one in a very quick, streamlined, and fun way, but it's also super informative.
That said, unfortunately, he doesn't hit his prints with a stick or throw them at a wall, so we'll still need Dank for that kind of testing.
@@grantm.9109great video cnc kitchen also does great at compiling individual ones so if you have specific requirements it's better for nitty gritty
It does miss one thing - the failures are more due to how these were printed and less about the materials. The layer lines are almost always the weakest point, so if you orient those correctly you can end up with a much, much stronger print.
wow incredible it sounds exactly like what i thought hitting plastic with a wood stick would sound like truly impeccable
Printing orientation would be an interesting thing to test. These are printed vertically which probably isn't the best since it's going to stress layer adhesion a lot.
absolutely these cymbals are not well made even by 3D printing standards. But it was probably necessary to make them fit in the printer.
I'd wanna hear them at 100% shell, then it should lay down the layers in a circle instead of crisscross
I can tell you from first hand experience that ABS is terrifying to work with and almost never comes out properly. I'm extremely impressed that you guys actually managed to put something together that vaguely resembles a symbol out of ABS!
I had exactly one good print with abs it’s awesome if you get the settings right otherwise it’s a nightmare
from what I've read, ABS is a super temperamental material for printing. everything need to be just the right temp during the print, or it'll fall apart. bed temp, extrusion temp, even the ambient air has to play along.
Abs isnt that bad if you have a printer designed to print abs. Aka not an ender 3 or prusa.
Yeah my cheap printer from 2013 has been printing abs fine for 10 years now
@@whomst7574 you might wanna get checked out by a doctor. Abs is carcinogenic and has been proven to cause cancer over long exposure.
mate’s got medieval shields for cymbals
HAH was gonna make a valheim shield referencce but you beat me to it
I reckon, with a couple modifications to the slicing, you could end up with some fairly strong 3D printed cymbals. If the print was sliced radially or cross-hatched (alternating direction each layer), you may end up with stronger quadrants.
Yeah, this is basically what I thought - Different slicer and maybe replace the straight joins with jigsaw-puzzle style joints, maybe slanted very slightly at the edge so they cant slide past vertically.
For the slicer pattern I first thought "What if the lines were circularly-oriented instead of all parralel, then remembered space-filling curves / fractals /patterns exist like the Hilbert Curve.
If the slicer tried to draw each layer of volumes to avoid lines from layers from touching it might give greater strength; perhaps even just tossing in a non-parralel layer every now and then would be enough to stall crack propogation.
I bet if you put some kind of interconnecting tabs to "clip" the pieces in place, you could get the pieces to stay together better. The extra surface area for glue should at least keep the pieces from splitting.
Also you're totally right about glues reacting differently to the plastic types. Some filament types even allow you to "fuse" pieces together using acetone, heat, or another solvent.
I can't wait for the 3D-printed drums.
Abs bodies with tpu heads ? Lol
3d printed octobans sounds
Yeah it sounds.
The snare drums I've made sound incredibly similar to conventional drums.
most terrifying drum thing you've ever done
I seriously wonder what the floppy cymbal would sound like when covering the dark ride, like some weird cymbal suppressor!
Hi! Composite engineer here. You might want to set your printer to print along the perimeter instead of along the radius. This will prevent cracking from the edges up to the bell.
Also, the glue joint butt joint will stiffen up the cymbals along the quadrant lines, that's why the Carbon/Nylon version seems to be holding up well : stiffness should be the highest and will be distributed more evenly, less concentrated stress along the glue line.
I would suggest, instead of butt joint gluing, slightly thinning/scarfing the edges so that you can overlap each quadrant to have more gluing surface.
Cheers!
Printing them radially would work, but you would need a lot of support to get those parts printed, also no doubt soluble supports as otherwise you would get horrible marks at the bottom (unless you're fine with the bottom finish not being OK).
3D printing metal has really come a long way. A lot of different alloys can be “printed” with additive machining. You might talk to your mate into going halfsies with you on a new metal rig.
I’m a machinist so this is the content I live for; that and of course your regular scheduled programming.
Given the issues with embrittlement etc I’d love to see one suffer under drumming
Don’t metal prints need to be sintered or something so that the parts don’t fall apart, or is that something that was only a concern with older machines? Or are there fdm style metal printers now?
@@Flywheel2996 from what I've seen at me job, sintering isn't necessary anymore no
Metal printers are bonkers expensive for a regular tho. Not something one buys for cymbal enjoyment if you get me meaning.
@@aserta yeah ours are like half a million
I'm actually surprised how neat the percussive sound they produce is. Probably has more to do with technique, mics, and EQing, but still. Someone in marching band way back in the day told how anything could technically be a percussion instrument.
Na
Honestly, anything vaguely percussive can make a really great improvised drumset. Get a piece of wood, magasines a few cushions and drumsticks and if you have a proper sense of timing, iy will sound great
I make beats on anything: water bottles, bus seats, my bag, oranges, they all have places with different densities that are pitched different when you tap. Its fun to locate them.
the PLA honestly sounded *almost* within the ballpark of not god-awful. it was like a trash can lid but dimmer
As someone who works with 3D printers and such, what I would recommend instead of just gluing the peices together is to first glue, then use a soldering iron to basically melt the pieces together
Lmao THAT was the issue with a plastic cymbal, gotta love engineers' tendency to try to fix problems
@@selfloathinggameingYeah we do tend to do that, i suggested the idea just because I'd rather see these symbols shatter properly instead of just breaking at the glue point
Your love for tpu is so great, tpu is such a fun material and I never thought it would be used for a cymbal
Thanks for making me stay up even longer
Damn timezones
Thanks for posting it earlier, I would have stayed up till 2
Sorry I didn’t mean for this to come out passive aggressive if it did it’s supposed to be sarcastic because I really like the content that this guy puts out
Best part of having a shitty sleep schedule (5:30am here) is that I'm always awake for a DankPods/Drum Thing/Garbage Time video drop 😎
GMT gang
Hell yea! 07:04 here, yep I haven't gone to bed yet :D
pahaha those guys all release at normal times for me in NZ
its 1 am for me in EST and i feel the same as of late
Lol i work night shifts so I'm up either way
This is really good educational video on the differences between filaments.
Finally, a cymbal dry enough for a real jazz drummer
I feel like the cymbals may have held up a little better if the print bed was large enough to print it all in one piece, probably in a circular pattern. Also, I would highly recommend printing them in a B8 filament. 😉
Sabian makes B8 cymbal filament?!
😂
my thoughts exactly. if you had a large enough printer and could get the slicer to extrude in a circle I think it'd be much much stronger. it would still sound like wood hitting thin plastic, but they would have higher survival rate.
people think 3D printing is a process where you just draw the shape and get one. Sadly it is not the case and you still have to Design For Manufacturing
Might be interesting to see something out of PEEK or a similar material, it's so rigid it actually goes ting like metal! Hella expensive though.
Voidstar Lab crossover when?!
That's gonna be like I dunno... $900
I'd recommend designing an interlocking edge on the quarter pieces if your 3D printer can accomodate it. The two remaining cymbal materials would likely benefit from the design change.
It's so weird to hear that lil riddle dide on the drums without a proper cymbal.
That slo-mo of the dark ride is amazing
My 2 favorite hobbies combined, crazy to see how different your content can be from vid to vid
Seeing them plastic cymbals get hit and how they wobble and break, made me realize how much ducken abuse actual symbols have to endure, and this over prolonged periods of time.
M8, actual brass symbals have my respect, way stronger then my will to live!
I have been a musician for years but only started drumming a year ago, and it was because I saw a bunch of your drumming vids. So thank you for making it look as fun as it is.
would the TPU possibly be useful as a practice pad or even a drumhead? it didn't actually have a terrible sound, it just wasn't cymbal-like
Keyed edges might be better for this than the straight edges. When you glue them together it's not in one big fault line, so it might hold together better. Something for the ol' mate to consider for Destruct-O Cymbals 2.0
Yeah, came here to say this myself -- dovetail joints would communicate the force with less of a focused point of failure. Tapering the edges so there's some overlap would help too, by making the shear plane non-perpendicular and increasing the surface area for the glue to bond to.
Might also help to slice it differently so that there aren't straight-line seams in the plastic itself. I'm not 100% sure if it would make a difference or if it would just break differently. If it's possible to have multiple layers that don't have parallel grain, THAT would help, but I don't know if that would be too thick.
WOO! 3D printing content on The Drum Thing! 🥳 This is awesomely ridiculous and I love it!
I hate how ridiculous you are with this stuff and I LOVE IT. You are a blessing to the drumming community with your videos mate. This is why I am SUBBED. I need ridiculousness lol
Tough to choose my favorite. So many rich tones.
You can really hear the “thuk thuk” of the stick..
3d printed metal is a thing, but is unfortunately very expensive. While you can 3d print metal with a regular 3d printer it requires a few modifications and is a pain to do. You might be able to find a place online that will print your set in bronze once you have finalised your design
And then still having to either glue or weld it together
Only if you‘re rich… prices for online 3d printing are pretty high
@@fritzlb it is very expencive, but might be a fun project for wade
@@nickrustyson8124 potentially, there might be a place out there that could print it in one piece (I haven't looked into it much but I know of some fairly large printers)
Usually the better way to do it is to 3D print a mould negative for metal casting.
Print the thing, smash it between some clay or suitable sand, then pour in liquid aluminum or whatever.
I’d say the best case scenario’s for this would be prototyping (as 3D printing is already used so much for) practice (as you already stated) or triggering them and using them as electronic cymbals
Ok - this was the funnest video I've seen you do. I was cracking up so bad watching this. That says a lot! You make some damn funny and good content!
My main takeaway is how frickin nice that snare sounds
That PETG one definitely had trouble cause of the filament change - it really doesn't like cooling down much between layers, and the color change means the first roll ran out and had to get a second one put in, which introduces a significant weak point
The Dark ride is the Cymbal counterpart of the "Hurr Durr 6 Hunjos" by "Ol' Mate Senny"
I know nothing about cymbals but listening to this man talk is all the entertainment I need.
TPU is an awesome material. I've used it in the past to 3d print prosthetic finger tips, and robot wheels. PETG is also super solid and I think it might deserve another shot.
I'd argue PETG is easier to print than PLA if you have a heated bed. It is my go to filament. Yeah I think he can try another shot with higher printing temp.
@@someonestolemyname I've found the exact opposite. PETG will not stick to my heated bed no matter what temperature settings I have or how well I clean the bed. Instead it sticks exclusively to the nozzle, again no matter how well I level the bed
@@MarioMonte13 I am printing on glass bed though, maybe that has an effect? I don't think I had any issue with it on painter's tape and glue either. I don't have the luxury of modern print beds.
You should try Acetone slurry glue for the ABS prints. You put the excess supports and some acetone in a glass container, let in melt down into a slurry and apply that where you want it to join. Having joints of some sort or even puzzle piece like sections between the pieces would strengthen them, since a straight edge is the weakest. (Please wear a respirator when dealing with acetone)
Doing that over the entire surface would strengthen the whole cymbal, too.
I love how you didn't even bother to get them 3d printed in metal. Just a buddy printing in plastic. Legendary.
I mean, 3D printing it in metal is *incredibly* expensive. The cheapest selective laser sintering (SLS) 3D printer that I could find that's capable of printing copper and bronze parts was $92,000, and it probably isn't big enough for a full-sized cymbal! And if you were to commission a company to print out the part for you, it'd probably cost at least 4 figures.
At that price range, you might as well just buy a real cymbal, lol.
The closest a hobbyist can get is metal infused plastic, usually around 15 -20% metal
You can 3d print in wax and cast that
@@joshr408 You _can_ get even 80% metal with BASF Ultrafuse filaments, there's 2 grades of stainless steel and some other stuff too, the magic happens when you sinter the part later.
Prints like some crappy filament and will be quite weak afterwards, but in any printer pretty much. After sintered it's pretty much a stainless steel part. The filament does cost an arm and a leg and the sintering is an extra on top of that depending on where you live (I've read about you having like up to 3 sinter processes per roll on it's cost and the rest you pay for).
Those rolls are pretty funny, they're like 3x the weight of a similar quantity roll in filament meters.
I love how dry these are. So dry it's just the stick attack.
This was awesome. Super informative. Really makes you wonder how many different types of plastic Roland and the others went through before they found the right combos
This is such a cool experiment. Also, free drum concert? I remember the first DankPods video I watched being a weird iPod accessory video that popped into my feed. Absolutely loved it and every video I've seen since then, but to delve deeper and see the intelligence and pure talent behind the camera has been such a fascinating experience.
As someone who owns a printing business, I can tell you every symbol that broke not at the glue broke at layer lines. If they were printed in a different orientation, those would not be weak spots they would support it plus, you need different glues for different plastics when 3-D printing.
This was a great demonstration of how much of our cymbal tone comes from our drumsticks
You could totally make a mini 3D printed drum kit with these
Why mini? Go full size, or even 80s size!
it’s like someone removed the sound from the footage and re-recorded all new sound effects but forgot to record a new cymbal sound
You know you’re a cracked drummer when your ride cymbal is completely dead plastic and yet the beat is still groovin
you are merely a narrator, Custom Dark Ride is the true star of the show
The TPU or the Nylon Carbonfiber Cymbal would actually fit really well into a practice set if you for example live in an apartment where you cant make too much noise but you still want that realism feel. You could also just use an electric drum kit, but you could use a few practice pads, 2 16¨ cymbals as crashes, 1 20¨ cymbal for the ride, and 2 10¨ as a hi-hat, and there you have a complete kit :D
This entire video did indeed end up being everything I expected it to be
You broke most of them along the layer lines, ignoring the glue failures, meaning you're printing temperature wasn't high enough to bond the layers.
3D printing nerd here: I noticed something that could compromise the structural integrity. The pieces were printed vertically, so hitting it was putting stress on it in a way that is dependent on layer adhesion, and not the strength of the actual materials. Printing the pieces flat on a regular desktop printer, or in one piece on something like a Kobra 2 Max would make them way stronger.
I know you're not a teaching channel, but man. I learn SO MUCH about drums and audiophile stuff watching your vids, they're super interesting and its just entertaining as all hell to watch.
As for the cymbals themselves I love how each material had its own "sound". Super neat to watch and hear, can't wait to see the next vid!
Exactly as underwhelming as expected. Brilliant job!
The TPU was oddly satisfying to hear
I was expecting all of them to break but was generally surprised at some results! Noice video again mate ❤
If you could get a whole set of TPU cymbals and drums, that would be amazing. You could probably have really small drum heads printed too.
Fantastic video but a couple of things I had in mind. For the structure, I wonder if it would be doable to do these in thirds or something as less separation, the better. And also maybe some flexible coating like plastidip or a hard resin like epoxy would be beneficial. Or hell maybe a full blown cymbal made of resin would be awesome to watch the creation of.
Epoxy cymbals? Somebody PLEASE call Peter Brown
Yep, just as I expected, they sound like metronomes
Just changed the nozzle on my 3D printer. Now I know what I won't be printing
This man has a lot of creative ideas
I think the fails in the material itself could be mitigated by not printing all the layers in the same direction. The joints might be a challenge though but maybe there's a way to make like a channel or something on the edges that the parts snap into and can be glued there.
These could actually make some pretty cool cymbals for electronic drum kits
Props to the friend for designing the cymbals, but your friend should’ve used something like a soldering iron instead of glue to adhere them together.
You and your 3d printer friend should try to do a snare or something where you can put your own head on it, it obviously would be a more intensive project and would take a long time but I think it would be hilarious
Haha imagine youre on a gig and your cymbal just does this 2:36
The lack of cymbal sounds gives a chance to hear how really fuckin good your left hand is. Right on man!
This actually seems like a pretty useful video for comparing print materials for other applications.
2:59 Actually fascinating to see the shockwave ripple through the hot glue joints.
This man discovered in one video, what took the combat robotics community years. TPU and CF Nylon are some of the toughest plastics you can print
"Plastic" might be a bit of an overstatement for tpu lol
You can fight me over semantics but for all intents and purposes of printing its basically rubber
He just keeps breaking the cymbals with his raw unfiltered power.
You could always use the thermoplastic one as a hat.
5:12 thats no moon
imagine being a factory worker sorting out plastic to recycle and a whole bunch of 3d printed cymbals come in that would be mad lmao
Re-melting is needed to make regular FDM prints to last. In this case, mold release (heat resistant paint works in some applications) and two cymbals, the printed part sandwiched between them, pop in an oven. You will struggle to break solid PLA, it is very hard material and is one of the best materials for any instruments. It acts very much like wood. But when printed we have sometimes only third of the surface of the lines melted together, and the melting does not happen very deep, so we are linking the polymers at the very surface.
Re-melting is one way to make it truly solid and have it be one, uniform material with polymer links going all directions in the same, chaotic way. To make it even better, if it is cooled down very slowly it can become semicrystalline; instead of random "freezing" of the polymers (amorphous state) larger grains of well organized polymers will form. That means they are packed more efficiently, polymers have more links with each other and it makes it even harder and more temperature resistant and should, at least in theory, have better properties for musical instruments. FDM prints have sort of "wood grains", it has different properties depending on the orientation, like wood does.
Also, there is non-planar printing which probably is the way to print these. The layers in non-planar printing are not flat, they can curve... Which means that these "cymbals" were printed the worst possible orientation for the purpose, and the reason is obvious: planar printing these would've required TONS of support material that is wasted, and printing would've taken 10 times longer if we printed these flat. Now they are printed vertically, which is always the weakest direction. Tension pulling or shearing layers apart is 1:3 to 1:6th weaker compared to optimal (planar), in the best cases.. with non-planar printing it would be probably ten times stronger.. But that does not negate the need for the support material, unless we hack a touch probe and create an off-set mesh.. and then print on top of a cymbal..
imo they should have printed them in one piece, i get that that would require an extremely large print bed but still it would have taken out the area that constantly fails
Oh man they sound so good!
i have to imagine it was incredibly hard for him not to laugh as like 3 out of 4 of em broke as soon as he hit them with any sort of strength.
your videos never fail to give me a laugh and make my day better thanks for your amazing videos
symbolic cymbals straining to stay solid😀
Yay you popped up on my recommended with this channel for once🙏🏾🙏🏾
I just realized dank has a haitch pea monitor above his symbols
The Strong Bad cymbal.
a whole set of floppy plastic cymbals for the drum stream would be hilarious