For all the guys out there new to wrenching notice that rich broke the spark plugs loose with a ratchet. Never loosen them with an impact u can rune your head.
i need to drop a comment of appreciation Richard, the comprehensive tech info you've put out here (for free!?) for the whole community to consume is such a service, your dedication to the pursuit of horsepower is unparalleled. as an ignorant armchair racer baboon on a budget, i extend my thanks.
Thank you Sir Richard Cam-a-lot King of LS knowledge. It kills me you don't get paid to be an auto shop instructor. Great instructions, tutorials, information without the condescending attitude. 👍
You really should have shown it with the dowels put in for the lifters, that way it’s a full step A to Z, you left out a critical part most are going to want to know.
Most people don’t use dowels. Remove the rockers and push rods so the springs don’t push the lifters back down, spin the motor so all the lifters stick up in their bores, then chop chop pull one stick and slide in the other before any lifters drop. He showed the most common way for sure. Is using dowels safer? No doubt. Is it mandatory? Clearly not. I didn’t get as lucky though. Recently went to swap a cam in my G8 and two dropped into the pan. Bought two lifters, threw them in their homes and it is what it is. One of the worst oil pans to remove in all of LS history thanks to the cradle. I know they made it down into the sump; zero chance of touching the crank, not too worried about ‘em. Been fine for over a year
Awesome video. For a lot of DIY mechanics that are old school, it can be a little intimidating to mess with new stuff. I grew up on old school v8’s. But I have owned a LS, never done anything to one outside of a thermostat and waterpump, alternator and AC compressor. So this video is definitely educational
I've just recently bought a silverado 6.0 and found your channel. I've learned so much about cams, heads, intake manifolds, etc, binge watching your vids for the past 3 nights. Very informative and easy to understand for people wanting to know more of how things work and how to do it themselves.
Hello Richard, I have yukon 5.3 v8 2008 with 4L60E transmission, and DOD DELETED and I will add in my yukon: 1-long tube HEADERS (Speed engineer) 2-cold air intake(volant) 3-full system exhaust with Y pipe The qustaion Is which cam should I buy to make more hp and tq: 1-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS CAM Or 2-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS NSR CAM Another qustaion do I have buy valve springs and pushrods? Thanks a lot and you are helping the people who want to get more hp and tq in thiers cars
Is that why you did not replace the oil pump timing set and gaskets? I didn’t see any rtv use either. Just curious as I thought that was general practice on used motors since you are there
@@roccocalautti6218 that seemed like a good idea to me. I skimmed my cam retainer plate with RTV but then I was told that’s a big no-no. I was going to order a new plate
I’m no professional, and the knowledge I have of auto tech and High performance tech comes from the few years I went to Ranken tech in both there high-performance division as well as their GM program. None of that matters really but I noticed that after installing the cam and putting the rockers back it looks as though he just tightened them to torque spec. which is what you do obviously. But I didn’t see him adjust the lash of the rockers after the fact. I could be wrong, as I usually am, but if you’re going to go through the trouble of putting a brand new performance cam in your engine you should go through the process of adjusting lash. Even if it’s .001 of an inch, there are lash specs for a reason. I don’t know just something I noticed, still sick a sick video though.
Thanks for identifying long pushrods. How do you identify the proper pushrod? What is the proper number of turns after lash is removed? Additionally, Is it necessary to change lifters with cam? Sometimes? What are the deciding factors?
Hey a good video would be a spark plug test. The different spark plugs and gap sizes and different spark plug material copper iridium and ect . NgkTR6 vs stock, autolite, E3 plug and ect.
Hey Richard, I’m curious about “degreeing” a cam. I keep hearing about it but I’m not sure how to do it or if it’s necessary. This would be my first LS I’m working with and my first cam swap.
Any reason why I wouldn't want to rotate the engine upside down when swapping the cam, to avoid lifters dropping? My engine stand makes it easy to rotate, and the oil is already drained. Thanks in advance!
good idea on a stand-though we don't usually have an issue with lifters trays holding the lifters in place during the cam swap and we can't flip it upside down on the dyno
@@richardholdener1727 I haven’t boosted it yet… and I may not if it dyno’s over 500hp… it’s a junkyard Silverado 4.8L tht I’m swapping in to a Chevy trailblazer (same year) (I’m getting rid of the inline six 4.2) but I’m trying to build the engine to maximize hp and trq… (NA) i have a built trans 4L60e (tht should be able to handle 500+) any suggestions…? Rght now i have the 4.8 on the engine stand tearing it down 🤷🏽♂️
I'm not doing any of this Only 5.3 I have is in my 18 truck but I twist wrenches On boats and pwcs for a living so I found it interesting to watch! I just wish you would have elaborated more on the figuring out what and how to choose pushrod length.
To bad every time you swap a cam you have to bring your truck to the dyno/ tuner. If that wasn't the case i would be putting a cam in my 3500. 6.0 dump truck. Nearest tuner /dyno to me is a 2 hour ride 😅
I noticed some pitting on the first lobe on the stock cam that came out of my 2000 LS1. 100K miles. Only on the very top of the lobe, not worn just pitted. Wondering if you’ve seen this and if its just the metal its made from or if its associated with a failing lifter? Engine doesn’t make any noise. Thanks
Awesome video! Funny thing is I argued with car wizard about swapping a cam without taking the heads off a 5.3 and he said its impossible lmfao still waiting on that $100k he bet. Thank God there is real techs like yourself who actually know what they are doing. Cheers 🍻
Why would he think you had to take the heads off. I can't think of an engine off the top of my head, you need to remove the heads off of to change a cam/cams
@@andre49ers no clue honestly unless he doesn't know what he's doing lol it was in one of his " worst engines " videos where he sits on his yacht and talks shit about stuff because he doesn't know or understand it lol stopped watching after that one haha
If the 5.3 has active fuel management otherwise known as displacement on demand and your cam is not compatible with AFM limitations then the heads do need to be removed to complete the DoD delete. Also being a shop owner he would be wanting to avoid comebacks so it is likely he would want to replace lifters depending on mileage which again would require cylinder head removal. The Wizard makes it known he prefers to work on non modified vehicles for very valid reasons. Genius if you ask me.
Thnx for the video, u have me lots of encouragement. I actually pulled the head 3 times within a week trying to diagnose a problem. Dodge couldn't even fig out the problem. I will purchase a shirt I luv the name bcuz it simulates my car club name lol. Dies this method work with gen 3 hemi? Thnx!
If some or all of the lifters happen to drop...you can get 16 extendable pen magnets then insert one in each pushrod guide, grab the lifter, pull up to get the lifter out of the cam path, and then secure the magnet/lifter in the up position by attaching a zip tie around the shaft of the pen magnet. This works MOST of the time. Pen magnets are alot cheaper than the cost in time and money of removing the heads. Some people start with the pen magnets from the get-go to insure that no lifter falls...not a bad idea for some added insurance.
@richardholdener1727 True..if one has the time to acquire 16 pen magnets, a person can stop by any home improvement store to get the dowels. I just mention the magnets because both my Snap-on and Mac dealers carry plenty of them...and they come to me. Lol!! 😁👍
Good video until u didn't tell us how to (get) the push rod length,,,, next time be more specific or don't do the video half ass on the info ,,,,no like this time
@@Mattscalf They drop into the sump….then it’s heads off. A telescopic magnet might get to all the lifters in the sump through the oil pump area unless they fall under the metal plate in the sump. Then the sump will have to come off too.
just swapped the cam in my 5.3 lm7 truck engine to a sloppy mechanics best cam and fitted stronger springs. does the cam need a break in preiod? ive heard people say no its good to go other than letting the springs get up to temp and other people say you need to hold the revs at 2000rpm for 10-20 minutes.
@@richardholdener1727 thats great thanks. im going twin vsracing 67/62 mirror turbos with tial wastegates and fueltech management. hopefully will make a bit of power. car wil lonly weigh around 800kg when finished
As far as pushrod length is there a rule of thumb as far as how much length corresponds to 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, etc? How much would you shorten your pushrod to remove the full turn you needed to remove?
Hey , Mr Richard, any way you could tech us some about 1uz vvti and non vvti engines , I have a 1uz engine as a project and I would like to build my engine and prepare it for a twin turbo , but I'm a little confused about which compression radio to go with, I'm planning on upgrading my pistons
Hi Richard, no matter how neat I try to be so I'm not tracking coolant everywhere I manage to get it on the floor anyway or I drop my tools in the bucket. I now jack the back of the vehicle up as far as I can, drain it and let it down, this works but I still manage to get some on the floor.HAHAHA!!!
Valve train as far as valves, lifters and rockers would be fine stock, however depending on the cam you go with you may need to replace valvesprings. Usually the cam manufacturer can suggest a spring to go with the cam choice. The pushrods could go either way as sometimes stock sized works, sometimes you need a shorter/longer rod. It all depends on the camshaft you go with.
Got my vote on that one. When you tested if before the cam swap did it have the same intake and carb setup. The dowels you spoke of do I size them so they are as big as permitted to fit onto the the 2 galleys.
@Richard Holdener How do you make 423hp on a stock junkyard 5.3 with just long tube headers and a NSR Cam swap? did the MSD ignition, headers and intake and carburetor have a lot to do with it? Reason I ask is that I have a completely bone stock 2002 5.3 with only Hooker long tube headers and I’m thinking about going with this camshaft and was wondering if my engine would see those type of numbers?
I have always heard if reusing the push rods they should go back in the same hole they came out of?? Judging by Rich just putting them all in a pile on the head I suppose its not a huge deal?
@@richardholdener1727Gottcha gottcha that makes sense thank you for the clarification. And I must say I love your videos as I have a thrist for knowledge
On a gen 4 5.3 with a 1 bolt to 3 bolt conversion what do I need to do with cam sensor? Is it necessary or do I need to buy something else for it? Thanks
@@richardholdener1727 ok thank you very much. I am new to these ls engines and the sensors and all the electronics are new and somewhat confusing to me.
How long was the push rods you used with Truck Norris cam. Would stock 5.3 862 heads be the same. I put LS 6 springs in it. My question is should the stock 5.3 push rods work?
I appreciate the video . I going to do this to a 10 SS camaro. But I think it got at active fuel management or what ever it's called . So I guess I have to remove the heads ect . Surely someone makes a kit to do this thanks for the videos
@@63Imp283 I have a set of brodix t1 heads I decided to build a motor for... So I picked up a 400 block and a forged 350 crank, eagle H beam rods.... Just havent had the motivation to get it together-
If replacing cam this way, I'd get the dowels to hold lifters. My luck they fall after I remove or during new cam install. I'd also want to at least look at bearings (maybe borescope). Moreso if someone else had already been in there, less if factory and very low miles and oil looks real good on top of heads.
I have not pulled a head off anything for years the last one I did the gasket was very difficult to clean off just wondering if it would require extra work or reliable enough to do while still in the car @@richardholdener1727
@@richardholdener1727 sorry maybe I should have worded that differently. When you snugged it down and counted two turns and then said they were wrong size. Should there be no turns ? To determine length? I’m guessing you did this on TDC to test? I’m obviously not a mechanic but DIY guy getting ready to do an LS into an old S10 on a budget. Thanks also for your quick reply and I enjoy your videos. Very informative and easy to follow.
Richard first off thanks so much for the valuable info you continue to provide, talk is talk, but testing with real results is meaningful information. I dig the 80's-90's stuff, showing what us gear heads messing around with when it was a 5.0, TPI, GN, & occasional Sy/Ty street scene for the most part, good stuff. Now back to my video related question, or information from yourself, or anyone else that may have some input. I am picking up a 2003 Silverado SS, 190k miles, seems to be fairly unmolested 6.0 etc...(I have not reached it in person yet). Anyone have any "gotta do's", or what worked really well for them, let me know. I will be doing a cam, leaning toward the "Truck Norris". Oh, what are the lifter retainers exactly? You said "dowels", that made me think they would be easy to improvise...Thanks
Rust a lot of it under the bed especially that many miles u better triple double check that rust major issues on those ss silverados I had 2 myself telling u from experience but I am in Michigan with the salt n snow
If we are going with a stage II cam 535 lift , will the stock valvetrain geometry be affected. Or do we need shorter pushrods? From what I understand the stock cam lift is 466 / 457.
I don’t own an ls , in fact I’m a mopar guy these days , still glued to the video, learning is cool mr Holdener , thanks
The oil pan bolts are the same thread as the cam. Using three of them makes the removal and install super easy
Water pump bolts are too and they’re longer
For all the guys out there new to wrenching notice that rich broke the spark plugs loose with a ratchet. Never loosen them with an impact u can rune your head.
That goes for the oil pan drain too, 🤪
Or you can ruin your head… highly doubtful.
@@jeremysmith6905 they are super easy to pull the threads just like the 5.4 Triton engine too.
He prob uses that little one on everything but settin a good example 😂
*ruin
Thanks Heaps Richard. I would still use lifter holder's as with my luck would definitely drop into the sump. Love the tech tips. 💯👍 Aussie Fan 🤟🇦🇺😎
i need to drop a comment of appreciation Richard, the comprehensive tech info you've put out here (for free!?) for the whole community to consume is such a service, your dedication to the pursuit of horsepower is unparalleled. as an ignorant armchair racer baboon on a budget, i extend my thanks.
THNX
Turbo drain?
2 turns = push rod too long. How many turns should it be for a correct length push rod?
1/2-1 IS WHAT I LIKE AND YES, TURBO DRAIN
@@richardholdener1727 nmmmm?m?nmnmmmmkkee.m
@@richardholdener1727 what length push rods did you change to? Thank you sir!!
@@richardholdener1727 wait I'm confused wouldn't a shorter push rod allow you to tighten it more before bottoming out?
Thank you Sir Richard Cam-a-lot
King of LS knowledge.
It kills me you don't get paid to be an auto shop instructor.
Great instructions, tutorials, information without the condescending
attitude. 👍
Screw that youtube is way better money
@steve beuchert doubt it considering the average youtuber with a million subscribers earns roughly 60k a year.
He does. Much more too.
He'll get a big head and float away with compliments like that take it easy man it does look to be a correct statment
But he probably gets alot of free performance parts too.
No BS and straight to the point. A true scholar
At 20:15 when it takes two turns to go from zero lash to tight - how many turns would you want on a pushrod that's the correct length?
This!! I was left asking the exact same question.
th-cam.com/video/2HtgGp5tmgI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/h4FFtBPbGIE/w-d-xo.html
Hope both of these help you guys.
PLEASE SEE THE HOW TO CHECK PUSHROD LENGTH VIDEO-BUT CORRECT WOULD BE 1/2 TO 1 TURN
You really should have shown it with the dowels put in for the lifters, that way it’s a full step A to Z, you left out a critical part most are going to want to know.
Most people don’t use dowels. Remove the rockers and push rods so the springs don’t push the lifters back down, spin the motor so all the lifters stick up in their bores, then chop chop pull one stick and slide in the other before any lifters drop. He showed the most common way for sure. Is using dowels safer? No doubt. Is it mandatory? Clearly not. I didn’t get as lucky though. Recently went to swap a cam in my G8 and two dropped into the pan. Bought two lifters, threw them in their homes and it is what it is. One of the worst oil pans to remove in all of LS history thanks to the cradle. I know they made it down into the sump; zero chance of touching the crank, not too worried about ‘em. Been fine for over a year
Awesome video. For a lot of DIY mechanics that are old school, it can be a little intimidating to mess with new stuff. I grew up on old school v8’s. But I have owned a LS, never done anything to one outside of a thermostat and waterpump, alternator and AC compressor. So this video is definitely educational
Odd that GM would do all that great design work on the LS but not have locating pins on the timing cover.
I've just recently bought a silverado 6.0 and found your channel. I've learned so much about cams, heads, intake manifolds, etc, binge watching your vids for the past 3 nights. Very informative and easy to understand for people wanting to know more of how things work and how to do it themselves.
Agreed
Glad to see you aligned the timing cover with the damper. ive seen a lot of people miss that step.
Hello Richard,
I have yukon 5.3 v8 2008 with 4L60E transmission, and DOD DELETED and I will add in my yukon:
1-long tube HEADERS (Speed engineer)
2-cold air intake(volant)
3-full system exhaust with Y pipe
The qustaion Is which cam should I buy to make more hp and tq:
1-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS CAM
Or
2-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS NSR CAM
Another qustaion do I have buy valve springs and pushrods?
Thanks a lot and you are helping the people who want to get more hp and tq in thiers cars
regular truck norris makes a few more hp
I shall watch tonite!😎 my late night vids after a hard days work so good !
Likely no one in the world has swapped more cams than you. I'm definitely paying attention
you should state the dod set up has been refitted already....
dude you are a genius and i learned alot from this video. putting the push rods on are the only thing that im a bit nervous about
Re-use cam retainer plate? This one is probably new-ish. What’s everyone’s thoughts on always getting a new cam retainer plate?
I have never replaced them on a junkyard motor
Is that why you did not replace the oil pump timing set and gaskets? I didn’t see any rtv use either. Just curious as I thought that was general practice on used motors since you are there
@@roccocalautti6218 that seemed like a good idea to me. I skimmed my cam retainer plate with RTV but then I was told that’s a big no-no. I was going to order a new plate
Good instruction would be to remind ppl to replace the cam retainer plate. I've seen so many of those cause oil pressure issues
I’m no professional, and the knowledge I have of auto tech and High performance tech comes from the few years I went to Ranken tech in both there high-performance division as well as their GM program. None of that matters really but I noticed that after installing the cam and putting the rockers back it looks as though he just tightened them to torque spec. which is what you do obviously. But I didn’t see him adjust the lash of the rockers after the fact. I could be wrong, as I usually am, but if you’re going to go through the trouble of putting a brand new performance cam in your engine you should go through the process of adjusting lash. Even if it’s .001 of an inch, there are lash specs for a reason. I don’t know just something I noticed, still sick a sick video though.
Thnx for the comment-There is no lash on an LS hydraulic roller cam-the rockers are bolt-down. The lifter preload is determined by pushrod length.
Thank you for the reply I really appreciate the information!
So how does the new cams not come with the needed push rods? Or even tell you what length that needs to be used ?
I’d love to know the answer to this question as well. How do you determine the length of the pushrods?
Sir Richard- cams-a lot should be a real thing😊
The most hated thing about any engine. Non adjustable valvetrain. Chevy sb and bbs rule. Most had adjustable rockers.
I use a small clear vinyl hoes to siphon out of the radiator first, never lose a drop on disassembly, no mess!
What about the drain on bottom of radiator?
@@fatnfurious9171 I have a 2000 GTP, so It' s hard to get too, and coolant splatters all over the place
Thanks for identifying long pushrods. How do you identify the proper pushrod? What is the proper number of turns after lash is removed? Additionally, Is it necessary to change lifters with cam? Sometimes? What are the deciding factors?
reuse roller lifters, 1/2-1 1/2 turns is ok
Came here looking for this question and answer! Thanks @Richard!
I have a 06 5.3 LH6 motor. What cam do you suggest without having to change the torque converter?
BTR torque or Truck Norris
Great, I'm about to be out here breaking stuff thinking I know what I'm doing...
Dudes I just now realized you can do that little hand trick from behind to seat the cam into the sprocket. 🤯
Hey a good video would be a spark plug test. The different spark plugs and gap sizes and different spark plug material copper iridium and ect . NgkTR6 vs stock, autolite, E3 plug and ect.
Im going to have to watch this tomorrow, but im sure it will be a great help. Ive swapped cams in SBCs, but I have no idea about LS.
Hey Richard, I’m curious about “degreeing” a cam. I keep hearing about it but I’m not sure how to do it or if it’s necessary. This would be my first LS I’m working with and my first cam swap.
we just install the new cam and line up the marks dot to dot
The plug in the front cover is where the cam sensor used to be, if im not mistaken.
Any reason why I wouldn't want to rotate the engine upside down when swapping the cam, to avoid lifters dropping? My engine stand makes it easy to rotate, and the oil is already drained. Thanks in advance!
good idea on a stand-though we don't usually have an issue with lifters trays holding the lifters in place during the cam swap and we can't flip it upside down on the dyno
What spark plugs do you suggest for your 4.8/5.3L ??
stock if it is stock-or ngk tr6 for boost
@@richardholdener1727 I haven’t boosted it yet… and I may not if it dyno’s over 500hp… it’s a junkyard Silverado 4.8L tht I’m swapping in to a Chevy trailblazer (same year) (I’m getting rid of the inline six 4.2) but I’m trying to build the engine to maximize hp and trq… (NA) i have a built trans 4L60e (tht should be able to handle 500+) any suggestions…? Rght now i have the 4.8 on the engine stand tearing it down 🤷🏽♂️
Love the video! Thank you!
Now I'm looking for 302w/351w video on this same topic.
So i wanna cam and supercharge my truck do i need aftermarket springs and rockers i will be getting some new pistons but im not sure ab the srpunga
SPRINGS YES, ROCKERS NO
I'm not doing any of this Only 5.3 I have is in my 18 truck but I twist wrenches On boats and pwcs for a living so I found it interesting to watch! I just wish you would have elaborated more on the figuring out what and how to choose pushrod length.
PLEASE SEE THE PUSHROD LENGTH VIDEOS
When you do all your tests, do you tune each individual set up or is the holley terminator just setting its parameters and self tuning?
I tune for max power with each combo
To bad every time you swap a cam you have to bring your truck to the dyno/ tuner. If that wasn't the case i would be putting a cam in my 3500. 6.0 dump truck. Nearest tuner /dyno to me is a 2 hour ride 😅
I noticed some pitting on the first lobe on the stock cam that came out of my 2000 LS1. 100K miles. Only on the very top of the lobe, not worn just pitted. Wondering if you’ve seen this and if its just the metal its made from or if its associated with a failing lifter? Engine doesn’t make any noise. Thanks
THEY DO THAT
Awesome video! Funny thing is I argued with car wizard about swapping a cam without taking the heads off a 5.3 and he said its impossible lmfao still waiting on that $100k he bet. Thank God there is real techs like yourself who actually know what they are doing. Cheers 🍻
Why would he think you had to take the heads off. I can't think of an engine off the top of my head, you need to remove the heads off of to change a cam/cams
@@andre49ers no clue honestly unless he doesn't know what he's doing lol it was in one of his " worst engines " videos where he sits on his yacht and talks shit about stuff because he doesn't know or understand it lol stopped watching after that one haha
If the 5.3 has active fuel management otherwise known as displacement on demand and your cam is not compatible with AFM limitations then the heads do need to be removed to complete the DoD delete. Also being a shop owner he would be wanting to avoid comebacks so it is likely he would want to replace lifters depending on mileage which again would require cylinder head removal. The Wizard makes it known he prefers to work on non modified vehicles for very valid reasons. Genius if you ask me.
You have to remove the heads to change lifters not the cam
Can I ask what brand of tool storage is behind you in the video?
Thnx for the video, u have me lots of encouragement. I actually pulled the head 3 times within a week trying to diagnose a problem. Dodge couldn't even fig out the problem. I will purchase a shirt I luv the name bcuz it simulates my car club name lol.
Dies this method work with gen 3 hemi? Thnx!
"Fun things is to drain all the water into the bucket then knock the ticket over." Truth
If some or all of the lifters happen to drop...you can get 16 extendable pen magnets then insert one in each pushrod guide, grab the lifter, pull up to get the lifter out of the cam path, and then secure the magnet/lifter in the up position by attaching a zip tie around the shaft of the pen magnet. This works MOST of the time. Pen magnets are alot cheaper than the cost in time and money of removing the heads. Some people start with the pen magnets from the get-go to insure that no lifter falls...not a bad idea for some added insurance.
just use (2) 5/16 wood dowels
@richardholdener1727 True..if one has the time to acquire 16 pen magnets, a person can stop by any home improvement store to get the dowels. I just mention the magnets because both my Snap-on and Mac dealers carry plenty of them...and they come to me. Lol!! 😁👍
The pushrod was too long....how many turns if it isn't too long?
1.5 turns plus
I'm putting a chopacabra cam in my LS do I need to degree it out or just install with the factory timing marks lined up
we just install dot to dot
I know this is a few years old but the torque specs on the retainer plate on the Gen 3 Aluminum engines was 18 ft lbs not 10...
Good video until u didn't tell us how to (get) the push rod length,,,, next time be more specific or don't do the video half ass on the info ,,,,no like this time
see the specific pushrod length video-no reason for me to duplicate on another video-but your comment tells me much
What happens if you pull the cam out an the lifters do fall? Ho do you fix that???
TAKE IT APART AND GET THEM BACK IN
@@richardholdener1727where do they fall into though?
@@Mattscalf They drop into the sump….then it’s heads off.
A telescopic magnet might get to all the lifters in the sump through the oil pump area unless they fall under the metal plate in the sump.
Then the sump will have to come off too.
I didn't hear you explain how many turns I should get when I know my push rods are the correct length.
1/2 turn to 1.5 turns will work as covered in the video
your getting the new intake manifold all stained up
The new camshaft that comes right out the box do you have to clean it or just assembly lube and install ??
wipe it clean and ad oil and install
just swapped the cam in my 5.3 lm7 truck engine to a sloppy mechanics best cam and fitted stronger springs. does the cam need a break in preiod? ive heard people say no its good to go other than letting the springs get up to temp and other people say you need to hold the revs at 2000rpm for 10-20 minutes.
no cam break in needed on a hyd roller cam
@@richardholdener1727 thats great thanks. im going twin vsracing 67/62 mirror turbos with tial wastegates and fueltech management. hopefully will make a bit of power. car wil lonly weigh around 800kg when finished
What drill is that he used to take off the rockers
thanks Richard,
it would be great if we can get one for the Hemi
Damn this guy really just ugga dugga'd that crank bolt lol im sure its fine but, still, torque to spec fellas.
As far as pushrod length is there a rule of thumb as far as how much length corresponds to 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, etc? How much would you shorten your pushrod to remove the full turn you needed to remove?
.040-.045
I have the big valve springs in mine (double spring and stainless valve)
Hey , Mr Richard, any way you could tech us some about 1uz vvti and non vvti engines , I have a 1uz engine as a project and I would like to build my engine and prepare it for a twin turbo , but I'm a little confused about which compression radio to go with, I'm planning on upgrading my pistons
I was just wondering can I just put in this cam without updating the computer or changing the injectors
cam needs a tune
Hi Richard, no matter how neat I try to be so I'm not tracking coolant everywhere I manage to get it on the floor anyway or I drop my tools in the bucket. I now jack the back of the vehicle up as far as I can, drain it and let it down, this works but I still manage to get some on the floor.HAHAHA!!!
I’m doing my first. Ls swap, got a 5.3, I was wondering if the cam would work with the stock valve train
Valve train as far as valves, lifters and rockers would be fine stock, however depending on the cam you go with you may need to replace valvesprings. Usually the cam manufacturer can suggest a spring to go with the cam choice. The pushrods could go either way as sometimes stock sized works, sometimes you need a shorter/longer rod. It all depends on the camshaft you go with.
Got my vote on that one. When you tested if before the cam swap did it have the same intake and carb setup. The dowels you spoke of do I size them so they are as big as permitted to fit onto the the 2 galleys.
@Richard Holdener How do you make 423hp on a stock junkyard 5.3 with just long tube headers and a NSR Cam swap? did the MSD ignition, headers and intake and carburetor have a lot to do with it? Reason I ask is that I have a completely bone stock 2002 5.3 with only Hooker long tube headers and I’m thinking about going with this camshaft and was wondering if my engine would see those type of numbers?
the gains are as shown on the engine dyno
I have always heard if reusing the push rods they should go back in the same hole they came out of?? Judging by Rich just putting them all in a pile on the head I suppose its not a huge deal?
that is not necessary on the pushrods-only on flat-tappet lifters/cams
@@richardholdener1727Gottcha gottcha that makes sense thank you for the clarification. And I must say I love your videos as I have a thrist for knowledge
Been waiting for one of these, thanks Richard
If you watch this video 100 times, you can see every cam swap Richard has ever done!
you need to watch way more than that
So what size pushrods did ya use? I thought that chuck Norris cam cam with the correct size rod's for the LS
On a gen 4 5.3 with a 1 bolt to 3 bolt conversion what do I need to do with cam sensor? Is it necessary or do I need to buy something else for it? Thanks
just need 3-bolt 4x wheel (they have those)
@@richardholdener1727 ok thank you very much. I am new to these ls engines and the sensors and all the electronics are new and somewhat confusing to me.
Getting ready to do the same. I’m going with a Lunati can, though. Just a mild street thumper is all I need!
Wish this video was more about how to choose a good upgrade CAM for my 5.9L Magnum Gas 360 engine...
Where did you get the tool to remove the crank pulley ? What name brand ?
BLUE POINT HAS THEM
How long was the push rods you used with Truck Norris cam. Would stock 5.3 862 heads be the same. I put LS 6 springs in it. My question is should the stock 5.3 push rods work?
Should from what btr states on the website
STOCK PUSHRODS WORK 7.4
Timing chains normally that loose?
Yes, that's why GM added a guide to the the later model engines. Not all have them though. 🤷
I appreciate the video . I going to do this to a 10 SS camaro. But I think it got at active fuel management or what ever it's called . So I guess I have to remove the heads ect . Surely someone makes a kit to do this thanks for the videos
He didn't use custom length p rods.
That plug is for the cam sensor? On an AFM or DOD LS?
what plug?
How many LS cam swaps have you done Richard ? 100?
IN ONE DAY?
Could you use 16 cheap magnetic pick-up tools to hold the lifters in place?
I believe you could thru the pushrod hole
Might go this way vs the chopsticks
Wouldnt want one breaking off in there
Hey Richard! How come you havent built a 377sbc???
I'd like to see that too ☺️
@@63Imp283 I have a set of brodix t1 heads I decided to build a motor for... So I picked up a 400 block and a forged 350 crank, eagle H beam rods.... Just havent had the motivation to get it together-
WESTECH HAS ONE-I'VE TESTED IT MANY TIMES
@@richardholdener1727 have you ever built a 329? 400 block 283 crank!?
That hole on the front cover was for a turbo oil return line I'm guessing
yes
How I love when I hear those BEATS!quiz answer.. turbo oil return
Got a question Richard would I have to pull the lifters and upper and lower intake to do cam swap on ford 3.8 v6
How many turns is to much to get different push rods ? And the little plug on front of cover ? What is it for ?
I just ordered my cam yesterday this video came in clutch
If your oil pan R&R needs engine removal , Best use a 5/16 long dowel to hold lifters up
I have 2010 6.2 in a Silverado what cam do u recommend
what do you want to do with it
Does a Truck Norris cam need to be tuned after installing compared to stock cam.
yes
Thank you love the videos and all the info
GREAT VIDEO! I use the sac city corvette , ALIGNIT TOOLS. superfast
If replacing cam this way, I'd get the dowels to hold lifters. My luck they fall after I remove or during new cam install. I'd also want to at least look at bearings (maybe borescope). Moreso if someone else had already been in there, less if factory and very low miles and oil looks real good on top of heads.
But if you dont look at the cam bearings they wont be bad 🤷
Hi. Anyone know how reliable swapping a factory head to a aftermarket unit is I'm talking about gasket failure etc
as reliable as using a stock head
I have not pulled a head off anything for years the last one I did the gasket was very difficult to clean off just wondering if it would require extra work or reliable enough to do while still in the car @@richardholdener1727
vacuum and razor blade make short work of it
Do the L's motors have issues w cam bearings often like the old school SBC motors
Turbo drain maybe is what that plug is for its kinda high but your on a dyno so all that goes out the window
Sounds about right
TURBO DRAIN
excellent video thank you. when you checked your rod length How do you determine length?
measure it end to end
@@richardholdener1727 sorry maybe I should have worded that differently. When you snugged it down and counted two turns and then said they were wrong size. Should there be no turns ? To determine length? I’m guessing you did this on TDC to test? I’m obviously not a mechanic but DIY guy getting ready to do an LS into an old S10 on a budget. Thanks also for your quick reply and I enjoy your videos. Very informative and easy to follow.
Richard first off thanks so much for the valuable info you continue to provide, talk is talk, but testing with real results is meaningful information. I dig the 80's-90's stuff, showing what us gear heads messing around with when it was a 5.0, TPI, GN, & occasional Sy/Ty street scene for the most part, good stuff. Now back to my video related question, or information from yourself, or anyone else that may have some input. I am picking up a 2003 Silverado SS, 190k miles, seems to be fairly unmolested 6.0 etc...(I have not reached it in person yet). Anyone have any "gotta do's", or what worked really well for them, let me know. I will be doing a cam, leaning toward the "Truck Norris". Oh, what are the lifter retainers exactly? You said "dowels", that made me think they would be easy to improvise...Thanks
DO A SEARCH-I HAVE NOT USED DOWELS, BUT 5/16THS MIGHT WORK
Rust a lot of it under the bed especially that many miles u better triple double check that rust major issues on those ss silverados I had 2 myself telling u from experience but I am in Michigan with the salt n snow
What did you do about the push rods just kept the stock ones even though you needed a different size?
the video was just to show you how to measure
Okay thank you really like your Channel do you have a video on how to pick pushrods or how to do about that needing different size
If we are going with a stage II cam 535 lift , will the stock valvetrain geometry be affected. Or do we need shorter pushrods? From what I understand the stock cam lift is 466 / 457.
THE LIFT DOESN'T MATTER-ITS THE BASE CIRCLE