862D+ Solder Station / Hot Air Rework Station Celsius to Fahrenheit Display Conversion. How to modify the inner works of this device to convert it from Celsius to Fahrenheit Displays.
I have the one with the 15v psu, 2A USB supply and a little 50V voltmeter. A brilliant device, I use it all the time. And yes I do have a proper 30v 10A psu, and a handfull of digital and analague meters; 2 flukes, 3 uni-t, even an AVO. and 2 clamp meters.
I have what looks like the same unit. I purchased it in 2014 but never used it. Tonight I was trying to reheat a chip on my video card so I pulled this out. I put on a tip I had purchased that was about 3/32" and used a laser pointer heat test gun and 2 different multi-meters with test probes on the air and the metal around the tip to see the heat as the chip would not reflow. I could not measure with it turned all the way up and different settings on the air any more then 195 degrees Celsius. I cleaned out the plastic slag out of the handle on the fan side so as to not interfere with the air flow which did not help. The board has similar parts but not the same design of board. The magnetic switch does not even work on mine! I see the trim pots on 1 leg of the temperature pots but not sure what they do. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the hot air side hotter? The way it is, the hot air side is worthless! Thanks for your video.
I have the 853D which is selectable from C or F temps. I got the hakko tips from Ebay also, but they look like the exact ones that came with the 853D. They don't claim to be OEM Hakko tips, they just say unbranded.
I don't like the Celsius display so when I saw this video on how to convert it I bought one. The only problem is, the circuit board in mine is laid out totally different than yours so it doesn't have those 2 pins to jump across. Do you have any idea how to do it on the other style?
Nice video. I wish I could do this to my 937D but it doesn't have type of jumper or solder pad to do that with. They should make it so that someone could change it to Fahrenheit.
This looks like a nice unit and I'd like to pick one up for myself. I fix a lot of TV's and the need for surface mount IC rework has become greater recently. I've been bringing boards to work in my lunchbox to use the hot air reflow station, but I want to get one for home use. Can you please tell me where you got this? I did a search for this model both on Ebay and Amazon and couldn't find it. I found a few similar ones with close model numbers, but not this exact one. Thanks
Is it me, or is that transformer a bit on the small size for a soldering iron (60w-70w?) and hot air gun (70w-100w?) ? When heat shrinking, I tend not to heat shrink the entire length, I just heat shrink a spot where the diameter of whatever it is around shrinks or grows. That way the shrink is stuck in one spot, and I have the added protection of not having a tight sleeve around most of the part. The tighter the sleeve, the more likely a point or sharp may pierce the sleeve. It's a choice for safety, not speed. For example, putting a sleeve around a resistor placed inline on a cable. Just shrink both ends so it cannot move past the resistor.
@@zaprodk That's disturbing as I've seen videos on this particular part (looks and runs exactly the same between manufacturers) where the plastic has completely disintegrated due to the magnet not turning it off or the fan cooling failed. The housing is thin and melts at the heater end. th-cam.com/video/tUFW5teeRBM/w-d-xo.html I missed the bit where the SCR/Triac runs the heater meaning it's mains, but I did note the size of the earth wire to it. Watch part two to note the chance of a thermal run away if the Triac fails.
@@saddle1940 I've seen that video. I'm not sure of the order of events, since Dave is a bit too good at jumping to a conclusion most of the time. A failed TRIAC should still make the thermal fuse melt.
i am thinking about transforming it 110 VAC to 220 VAC. I see there are red cables going to board. That Chinese transformator is very helpful by coloring 30v and 110v rails red. So rewinding the transformator should work? I don't know if i could find replacement for it...
If the 862D clones are anything like the 858D clones, there's probably a wide variability in quality of assembly and the behavior of the firmware. At least for the 858, finding faked displays that hide gross temperature overshoot isn't uncommon. People have put together firmware and adapters to work around the unserviceable MCU for various 858 clones: www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/msg1418224/#msg1418224 When I saw the video title, I was expecting a similarly involved solution and a new generation of 862D modifications. I didn't expect you to be lucky enough to get a jumper!
mine is v5, and for anyone having the issue where your iron doesnt get power but your hot air does just fine, at least on my board their seems to either be a problem with the tracing on the board that connect the switch pin to power as shorting the pins does not always work, the only thing I have found so far that works is putting a bit of pressure on the top of the connector pushing it into the board. I have not attempted a reflow yet to see if that would help because I just don't believe it would given the symptoms... If anyone has any ideas on what it could be other than that lmk because I cant wrap my head on it being anything but that being affected by pressure...
I have heard that some came pre programmed in the specific mode and that no changes were possible. Take a look and see if you have the jumper internally
No, I like to use a value in the millions of ohms range, more just to dissipate any static that may be present on the tip. Its all personal preference though.
@@mrsemifixit Without the resistor there is a risk of mains referenced voltage taking a direct low resistance path to ground through your tip, if you're working on things that are powered from mains on or plugged into mains. This could damage what you're working on as well as your iron. I'm sure NorCal has his reasons, but I would just leave it directly grounded without a resistor and do any soldering work with the device you're working on unplugged.
I get the tips on eBay look for Hakko 900m tips www.ebay.com/itm/900M-Series-Iron-Heads-Soldering-Tip-for-HAKKO-907-907-ESD-933-Soldering-Station/132933341832?hash=item1ef371d288:m:muAOY9HwZpd_TlBPS5D_W8w:rk:1:pf:0
Haha =D Yes, it also in some ways demonstrates the WHY for this mod too. ie. If you had a bad solder point somewhere on the board you could use the iron to reflow it whilst powered. Yes, dangerous, but not if you know what you are doing. But that of course assumes that the bad solder point isn't affecting the unit in such a way that the element cannot heat up. =D
That's in fact not a good soldering station, the blower soldering stations are very bad, they don't give you a consistent air flow and in return they don't provide you as a constant heating source. The good ones have a internal pump and distribute the air correctly. Also you can buy good ones with a fair price of that is probably the same price as this one, "701A+" is a good example, also "852D" use to be cheap You have professional ones that has a blower inside but is a huge one that doesn't compare with that 12V one, branded as Quick 861dw
thought i'd stop in and say thanks for the vid, I bought one of these off fleabay, was too be unbranded like yours, showed up a zeny with diff. board and loose wireing, I fixed it, 42$ and a free iron, fedex to my door. sol good but kinda miffed i cant make this mod, you can look at my board here if you would th-cam.com/video/lr1rdaIGi8A/w-d-xo.html I dont think i have any option jumpers ? thanks again
@@norcal715 so, I took this apart again, apears no way to do this conversion to my board, Thinkin you got lucky with yours as there is prob no way identify which board will come in a "unbranded" unit,,,,
Great Video, Thanks! Do you have any recommendations for replacement soldering iron tips that are better than the cheap on included? I want to learn board repair as a hobby for working on stereo equipment mainly, but will very likely try my hand at some computer repair as well. Thanks again! @NorCal715
Good job. Thanks for the tips! For $50 you can't complain.
I have the one with the 15v psu, 2A USB supply and a little 50V voltmeter. A brilliant device, I use it all the time. And yes I do have a proper 30v 10A psu, and a handfull of digital and analague meters; 2 flukes, 3 uni-t, even an AVO. and 2 clamp meters.
Good video really enjoyed it. Thank you.
What are these Fahrenheit you speak of? Some kind of jelly beans?
Nice Thank you 👍
I have what looks like the same unit. I purchased it in 2014 but never used it. Tonight I was trying to reheat a chip on my video card so I pulled this out. I put on a tip I had purchased that was about 3/32" and used a laser pointer heat test gun and 2 different multi-meters with test probes on the air and the metal around the tip to see the heat as the chip would not reflow. I could not measure with it turned all the way up and different settings on the air any more then 195 degrees Celsius. I cleaned out the plastic slag out of the handle on the fan side so as to not interfere with the air flow which did not help. The board has similar parts but not the same design of board. The magnetic switch does not even work on mine! I see the trim pots on 1 leg of the temperature pots but not sure what they do. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the hot air side hotter? The way it is, the hot air side is worthless! Thanks for your video.
I have the 853D which is selectable from C or F temps. I got the hakko tips from Ebay also, but they look like the exact ones that came with the 853D. They don't claim to be OEM Hakko tips, they just say unbranded.
Nice,Thank you..
Good machine Sir I like it ......
I don't like the Celsius display so when I saw this video on how to convert it I bought one. The only problem is, the circuit board in mine is laid out totally different than yours so it doesn't have those 2 pins to jump across. Do you have any idea how to do it on the other style?
Nice video. I wish I could do this to my 937D but it doesn't have type of jumper or solder pad to do that with. They should make it so that someone could change it to Fahrenheit.
This looks like a nice unit and I'd like to pick one up for myself. I fix a lot of TV's and the need for surface mount IC rework has become greater recently. I've been bringing boards to work in my lunchbox to use the hot air reflow station, but I want to get one for home use.
Can you please tell me where you got this? I did a search for this model both on Ebay and Amazon and couldn't find it. I found a few similar ones with close model numbers, but not this exact one. Thanks
I found it, the model # is wrong in the video description. I see on the unit that it's an 862D+ not 864, that's why I couldn't find it.
I just noticed the wrong number in the title line also, and fixed it. Thanks
Hey this station looks good but I didn't understand what you did or what a jumper is so can you help me because this would be my first one
How does it produce air? I have a similar one that uses a diaphragm pump for the hot air. Don’t see one in yours
it has a small motor and fan in the hot air handle
Is it me, or is that transformer a bit on the small size for a soldering iron (60w-70w?) and hot air gun (70w-100w?) ?
When heat shrinking, I tend not to heat shrink the entire length, I just heat shrink a spot where the diameter of whatever it is around shrinks or grows. That way the shrink is stuck in one spot, and I have the added protection of not having a tight sleeve around most of the part. The tighter the sleeve, the more likely a point or sharp may pierce the sleeve. It's a choice for safety, not speed.
For example, putting a sleeve around a resistor placed inline on a cable. Just shrink both ends so it cannot move past the resistor.
The hot air gun runs on mains voltage, so it doesn't load the transformer.
@@zaprodk That's disturbing as I've seen videos on this particular part (looks and runs exactly the same between manufacturers) where the plastic has completely disintegrated due to the magnet not turning it off or the fan cooling failed. The housing is thin and melts at the heater end.
th-cam.com/video/tUFW5teeRBM/w-d-xo.html
I missed the bit where the SCR/Triac runs the heater meaning it's mains, but I did note the size of the earth wire to it. Watch part two to note the chance of a thermal run away if the Triac fails.
@@saddle1940 I've seen that video. I'm not sure of the order of events, since Dave is a bit too good at jumping to a conclusion most of the time. A failed TRIAC should still make the thermal fuse melt.
Not a bad mod I might do that to mine use a simple toggle to change the display on the fly
i am thinking about transforming it 110 VAC to 220 VAC. I see there are red cables going to board. That Chinese transformator is very helpful by coloring 30v and 110v rails red.
So rewinding the transformator should work? I don't know if i could find replacement for it...
I would just use a step up transformer to convert 110 to 220
@@norcal715 Thanks for your answer. rewinding is very nasty. Since i am scammed on ebay, my 19 usd 862d+ never comes...
Do the Hakko tips use better metal for their tips? Curious the difference
I think they do. The original Chinese tips didnt last more than a couple of weeks, but the Hakkos have been going for about 6 months with no problems
NorCal715 Oh so it’s a matter of longevity rather than better heat conduction?
@@norcal715 yes there are some cheap tips I agree
If the 862D clones are anything like the 858D clones, there's probably a wide variability in quality of assembly and the behavior of the firmware.
At least for the 858, finding faked displays that hide gross temperature overshoot isn't uncommon. People have put together firmware and adapters to work around the unserviceable MCU for various 858 clones:
www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/msg1418224/#msg1418224
When I saw the video title, I was expecting a similarly involved solution and a new generation of 862D modifications. I didn't expect you to be lucky enough to get a jumper!
mine is v5, and for anyone having the issue where your iron doesnt get power but your hot air does just fine, at least on my board their seems to either be a problem with the tracing on the board that connect the switch pin to power as shorting the pins does not always work, the only thing I have found so far that works is putting a bit of pressure on the top of the connector pushing it into the board. I have not attempted a reflow yet to see if that would help because I just don't believe it would given the symptoms... If anyone has any ideas on what it could be other than that lmk because I cant wrap my head on it being anything but that being affected by pressure...
So this method makes the solder iron hotter than the 480
No it just changes the display from Celsius to Fahrenheit. The actual heat stays the same.
Do these need to be calibrated? Is there even an option if need to?
There are 10-turn potentiometers on the main board for calibration. If you wanted to do so. Thank for watching!
I have the 862bd+. I have the opposite problem. Is the fix the same?
I have heard that some came pre programmed in the specific mode and that no changes were possible. Take a look and see if you have the jumper internally
Is the resistor value critical between the tip and earth?
No, I like to use a value in the millions of ohms range, more just to dissipate any static that may be present on the tip. Its all personal preference though.
NorCal715 without the resistor there’s more of a static discharge risk since it’s more instantaneous?
@@mrsemifixit Without the resistor there is a risk of mains referenced voltage taking a direct low resistance path to ground through your tip, if you're working on things that are powered from mains on or plugged into mains. This could damage what you're working on as well as your iron.
I'm sure NorCal has his reasons, but I would just leave it directly grounded without a resistor and do any soldering work with the device you're working on unplugged.
I got the same one
My problem is th solder tip can't find them
I get the tips on eBay look for Hakko 900m tips www.ebay.com/itm/900M-Series-Iron-Heads-Soldering-Tip-for-HAKKO-907-907-ESD-933-Soldering-Station/132933341832?hash=item1ef371d288:m:muAOY9HwZpd_TlBPS5D_W8w:rk:1:pf:0
Feedback loop!!! Does not compute! Hot air station fixing itself!!!
Are you implying a bit of cannibalism? I almost made that remark as I was filming it.
Haha =D Yes, it also in some ways demonstrates the WHY for this mod too. ie. If you had a bad solder point somewhere on the board you could use the iron to reflow it whilst powered. Yes, dangerous, but not if you know what you are doing. But that of course assumes that the bad solder point isn't affecting the unit in such a way that the element cannot heat up. =D
Why would you ever convert anything from Degrees Science to Degrees Frankenstein :D
Our teachers used to say "Now converting Degrees Sensible to Degrees FranklySilly"
@@saddle1940 Haha, made me laugh.
Mines only goes up to 480 on the solder
that is displaying in Celsius. same as 896 F
That's in fact not a good soldering station, the blower soldering stations are very bad, they don't give you a consistent air flow and in return they don't provide you as a constant heating source.
The good ones have a internal pump and distribute the air correctly. Also you can buy good ones with a fair price of that is probably the same price as this one, "701A+" is a good example, also "852D" use to be cheap
You have professional ones that has a blower inside but is a huge one that doesn't compare with that 12V one, branded as Quick 861dw
thought i'd stop in and say thanks for the vid, I bought one of these off fleabay, was too be unbranded like yours, showed up a zeny with diff. board and loose wireing, I fixed it, 42$ and a free iron, fedex to my door. sol good but kinda miffed i cant make this mod, you can look at my board here if you would th-cam.com/video/lr1rdaIGi8A/w-d-xo.html I dont think i have any option jumpers ? thanks again
I will take a look when I get a chance. Sorry to hear that because I was planning on picking up a 2nd one of these ans wanted to mod it too
no worries man, seems to be no ryme /reason to how these are build at the factory, i made my vid to help with the confusion,, lol
@@norcal715 so, I took this apart again, apears no way to do this conversion to my board, Thinkin you got lucky with yours as there is prob no way identify which board will come in a "unbranded" unit,,,,
Great Video, Thanks! Do you have any recommendations for replacement soldering iron tips that are better than the cheap on included? I want to learn board repair as a hobby for working on stereo equipment mainly, but will very likely try my hand at some computer repair as well. Thanks again! @NorCal715
As long as you keep the included tips clean, and cool when not in use, I have found they last quite some time.