Stan as a jeweler since my teens I have used Rock Hard felt , its the exact same technique you just loaded a abrasive wheel with rouge and wax to seal the abrasive and then turned the surface into a microporos wheel utilising the rouge... Thanks for showing us the trick.
Very, very cool. Can't wait to try. I've had a slug of bees wax on the slelf for 30 years waiting for an application. I suppose you just take a couple of thou off for the next surface job or... just go for it.
That's pretty cool...literally too I guess, LOL! I love shiny and sparkley things, kind of like a crow fishing stuff out of the gutter to bling up my nest ;) Thanks for the video, Aloha...Chuck
Love the way he works those handle like Karate Kid; "Wax goes on ! Wax goes off !, Wax goes on, wax goes off". Near polished surface is more corrosion resistant. Something to think about maybe ?
Interesting technique here Stan. I would challenge you that you didnt take material off and maybe leave it high in the middle after the rouge wore off. I realize it is probably only 50 millionths or so, but it would be interesting to see. Lapping film on fhe surface plate might be easier and more efficient. Thanks for the video, it was cool.
Cool trick. Back in the day we used paint stick but it was hard to dress out for the next job. I would guess with bees wax you could spoof a little WE in each side of the spinning wheel and pretty much purge it clean for the next op. Is that what happens? Am I close?
I would think the diamond particles would become embedded in your part, turning them into a lapping block. Now imagine that sliding around on your surface plate or mill table!
Hi Stan can I get some advice please. Sometimes on my machine I get what they call mackerel finish. Which seems like a very light Chatter you can't really feel it but you can see it. Hope that makes sense. Also I grind a lot of hardened tool steel and stainless steel could you recommend please a wheel for this. If you could explain why I get this finish I would appreciate that.
+lbcustomknives We call those scallops here. Start with you spindle condition, no more than .0001 radial play with the spindle warmed up. Wheel dressed to full circumference. Is this happening with all wheels? Or do you have a "problem child"? Heat is your enemy, as the part heats, it swells, when is swells it has no where to go except deeper into the wheel, making more heat. Mist coolant will help with your thin parts, Kool Mist #77 is a good choice. Alum Ox wheel 46 J or K for stock removal 80 or 120 J for final passes.
Make sure your wheel is tight on the hub, and dont turn your spindle off after you dress. If your wheel isnt tight and you start the spindle, the wheel can move and then it runs out. If you take a heavy cut that can send your wheel out too, but that is less likely.
This is something new to me, good trick... Just to make certain I get it right, after you dressed the wheel before loading, at what distance form the part are you actually setting the wheel, since you dressed it, it is different from the last spark out pass... ? Thanks, Pierre
+pierre beaudry Dressed, ran my final pass and sparked out, charge wheel and make another pass. Am also experimenting with emery polishing compound, I have 3 different types showing up for testing. Red (standard rouge) Green (silicone carbide) Black (Emery )
Neat tip, just a clarification, you said your wheel had a fresh dress, I presume you meant fresh before your final grinding pass and not fresh after the final grinding pass?
Don't any surface grinders have power feed? Making a pass seems very tedious and time-consuming to me, and you don't seem to making any decisions during it, just cranking out a rectangular area at a regular speed. I'd be tempted to CNC it, but scanning a rectangle seems like something done just as easily with electromechanicals
yes some of them have automatic feed, but it might actually run faster if you crank it by hand, with CNC you could program a rough outline of the part and it wouldn't waste time running a square when the part is narrow in the middle. There are so many hand feed surface grinders I don't think manual controls is that big of a deal, personally. Though my experience is quite limited.
Only small grinders are handfeed usually, though some of them have like their bigger brothers a hydraulic feed. CNC grinders is a completely different territory.
been trying to make a SS mirror for 5 yrs w/o success by hand. aint gonna happen I can see. the reason is a flat mirror will reflect a crosshair back on itself, IF you have the optics and if surface is perpendicular to optical axis. now the "in process" starts with laser technology... think $$$$$. these old collimators (www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=collimator) are now surplus. the idea still works. thats what we do.
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Very cool! The most interesting thing I've learned in a long time.
Excellent, never thought of putting a compound on the wheel, what a good idea. Definately will try this one out. Thank you for sharing!!!
Nice video I think I remember an old machinist telling me about that back in the 60's when I was an apprentice.Thanks for showing the process enjoyed
Great tip, very clever. Will try it out next time I'm a grinding
Very cool trick, thank you for sharing!!!
nice! never saw that before.
Stan as a jeweler since my teens I have used Rock Hard felt , its the exact same technique you just loaded a abrasive wheel with rouge and wax to seal the abrasive and then turned the surface into a microporos wheel utilising the rouge... Thanks for showing us the trick.
Really useful! Thanks 🍻👌🏻
Very, very cool. Can't wait to try. I've had a slug of bees wax on the slelf for 30 years waiting for an application. I suppose you just take a couple of thou off for the next surface job or... just go for it.
23 more subscribers and you have 10,000!
Woohoo!
Always love your attention to detail Stan.
Nice tip. Thanks.
Great tip, big thanks
That's pretty cool...literally too I guess, LOL! I love shiny and sparkley things, kind of like a crow fishing stuff out of the gutter to bling up my nest ;)
Thanks for the video, Aloha...Chuck
Interesting video. Something to remember if I ever get a surface grinder.
Great information
I like it. Exact same way I sharpen knives on a leather wheel. Jewelers rouge and bees wax.
+Chad Prince the bees wax trick WITH the rouge is new to me but I will be trying and doing this for both the surface grinder and knife sharpening
+Ed Ginsberg try it. I think it gives a better edge.
Nice tip.
It is worth definitely to do this instead of changing wheel
Didn’t skip a beat with the saddle feed and table. Yes it’s worth the extra cleaning. Oh the things I’m learning.
Love the way he works those handle like Karate Kid; "Wax goes on ! Wax goes off !, Wax goes on, wax goes off". Near polished surface is more corrosion resistant. Something to think about maybe ?
Another good one, Stan! Just need to find a decent grinder now...
Interesting technique here Stan. I would challenge you that you didnt take material off and maybe leave it high in the middle after the rouge wore off. I realize it is probably only 50 millionths or so, but it would be interesting to see. Lapping film on fhe surface plate might be easier and more efficient. Thanks for the video, it was cool.
Can you do this with coolant and have you tried it on brass ???
Cool trick. Back in the day we used paint stick but it was hard to dress out for the next job. I would guess with bees wax you could spoof a little WE in each side of the spinning wheel and pretty much purge it clean for the next op. Is that what happens? Am I close?
That’s a great trick
never knew that :) thank you
Looks nice. Gonna charge up the wheel on the Makita tomorrow and see if the welds grind flatter..LOL
Colin :-)
This is very interesting. Have you ever tried using an mdf wheel and some diamond paste? Knife makers do that for sharpening.
I would think the diamond particles would become embedded in your part, turning them into a lapping block. Now imagine that sliding around on your surface plate or mill table!
if you are glazing the wheel, why do you need a 150 grit?
Hi Stan can I get some advice please. Sometimes on my machine I get what they call mackerel finish. Which seems like a very light Chatter you can't really feel it but you can see it. Hope that makes sense.
Also I grind a lot of hardened tool steel and stainless steel could you recommend please a wheel for this. If you could explain why I get this finish I would appreciate that.
+lbcustomknives We call those scallops here. Start with you spindle condition, no more than .0001 radial play with the spindle warmed up. Wheel dressed to full circumference. Is this happening with all wheels? Or do you have a "problem child"? Heat is your enemy, as the part heats, it swells, when is swells it has no where to go except deeper into the wheel, making more heat. Mist coolant will help with your thin parts, Kool Mist #77 is a good choice. Alum Ox wheel 46 J or K for stock removal 80 or 120 J for final passes.
Make sure your wheel is tight on the hub, and dont turn your spindle off after you dress. If your wheel isnt tight and you start the spindle, the wheel can move and then it runs out. If you take a heavy cut that can send your wheel out too, but that is less likely.
Also balance that wheel.
One point also is are you running true 3-phase and not some wacky generated 3rd phase or worse, 1-phase?
Always cools stuff, Stan!
I get a shinier, more polished finish than that on my 50 year old Kent grinder, using a 46 grit wheel. An almost mirror like result.
This is something new to me, good trick...
Just to make certain I get it right, after you dressed the wheel before loading, at what distance form the part are you actually setting the wheel, since you dressed it, it is different from the last spark out pass... ?
Thanks, Pierre
+pierre beaudry Dressed, ran my final pass and sparked out, charge wheel and make another pass. Am also experimenting with emery polishing compound, I have 3 different types showing up for testing. Red (standard rouge) Green (silicone carbide) Black (Emery )
Ok... Clear as mud... lol
I'll bee watching for your tests, interesting approach on classy finishing...
Nice tip, Stan.
Thanks,
John
Nice tip Stan.
Thanks for sharing.
Joe
I feel pain in my arms and hands. How can some people do this manually for years?
stan looks like chrome cool. bob
Neat tip, just a clarification, you said your wheel had a fresh dress, I presume you meant fresh before your final grinding pass and not fresh after the final grinding pass?
+bcbloc02 yes, fresh dress, remove .0002 and spark out, charge wheel and polish.
Neat! Where'd you pick this tip up?
Clever !
a Wow video really cool
Cool!
Use tallow on the wheel...(animal fat). If you load the wheel up too much u end up clogging it up too much..
Stan, I presume you'd need to re-dress the wheel before the next job?
+Mike Clayton Absolutely, the wax gets in pretty deep too.
"Dry Grind"......kind of like a lap dance?
+Dan Metzger Yea, but it sounds painful .....
Exactly like a lap dance! For a different reason.....frustration.
2:27 - Sticking your fingers near the surface grinder is a big No-No... maybe making a tool to do that.
Holy crap batman !!!!
My best ,
Tighe
Don't any surface grinders have power feed? Making a pass seems very tedious and time-consuming to me, and you don't seem to making any decisions during it, just cranking out a rectangular area at a regular speed. I'd be tempted to CNC it, but scanning a rectangle seems like something done just as easily with electromechanicals
yes some of them have automatic feed, but it might actually run faster if you crank it by hand, with CNC you could program a rough outline of the part and it wouldn't waste time running a square when the part is narrow in the middle. There are so many hand feed surface grinders I don't think manual controls is that big of a deal, personally. Though my experience is quite limited.
Only small grinders are handfeed usually, though some of them have like their bigger brothers a hydraulic feed.
CNC grinders is a completely different territory.
TOOO COOOL !!!
been trying to make a SS mirror for 5 yrs w/o success by hand. aint gonna happen I can see. the reason is a flat mirror will reflect a crosshair back on itself, IF you have the optics and if surface is perpendicular to optical axis. now the "in process" starts with laser technology... think $$$$$. these old collimators
(www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=collimator) are now surplus. the idea still works. thats what we do.
test