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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- When your race car only has a single nut to hold each wheel on, it’s really important they don’t come undone on track. You need a lot of torque, but that only makes the car roll when you apply a ratchet. In this video, I create a custom solution to hold the brake pedal down, so you can torque the wheel nuts independently at home or at the track.
Purchase the Carvera CNC (affiliate): bit.ly/3CVfsq3 Use code 'TeachingTech' for a small discount.
0:00 Introduction and update on logbooking
1:22 Wheel nut operation and specs
2:25 Buying tools
Torque wrench: sydneytools.com.au/product/da...
Breaker bar: sydneytools.com.au/product/da...
3:08 The problem and possible solutions
Over centre mechanism video: • Over centre mechanisms...
5:22 Design, prototyping and refinement
11:16 The final product
12:37 Conclusion
man, what a title
💀
Very cool solution! But as a race mechanic this is definitely not required to do this by yourself! What we do is just put our leg behind the rear side of the tire, the foot jammed under where a wheel chock would go, and the free hand on top. That combined with holding the torque wrench parallel to the ground instead of perpendicular provides enough force to adequately torque your wheels without them moving, and we use 350 ft-lbs so even more than what you have!
you just destroyed his hours of work :D
Suggestions like this are welcome, but honestly I'm happier with my device than what is described. It's future proofed for wet days, me being injured/weak, etc. Keep in mind that I don't have a team to pick up the slack if something goes wrong.
Sounds like you need a team my friend😅@@TTRacingYT
I just sit on the tire and torque the nut. It doesn't move.
Couldn’t you have just fitted a hydraulic handbrake actuator?
You always need to handle your nuts properly. Nice work
I have been watching your other channel for years and found it quite useful at times. This channel is totally useless for me, but I find it quite entertaining and interesting. I look forward to your next update.
Great video as always. Quick tip: if you're worried about nuts and bolts becoming loose on the track, use safety wire. Is basically a steel strand wire that links two bolt heads (or a nut and its lug) in a way that they become bound together and therefore cannot get loose unless you remove the wire. It's extremely reliable and very quick to apply if you have the proper wiring tool (which is very cheap). Can't recommend it enough!
It is a great idea. I didn't show it in this video, but each wheel have a locking pin outside the nut which should achieve the same result.
lock pins are usually a regulatory requirement
Safety wire on center wheel nut setup......... lmao ooooook.
i’m not gonna lie, this is my favorite series on all of youtube. thanks for making great videos!
Nice solution!
i love watching you progress with your car.. hope we will see you racing one day :)
Just a little idea that came into my mind:
you could use thick "heat shrinking tubes" (sorry dont know the right word for it) to cover up as much as possible... this way it would get a nicer look and most importantly avoid scratches.... these things a really cheap and are mounted heasily with a heat gun.
I thought this was your only channel. I was happy supporting small creators 💀💀
What a genius solution to what could have been a pretty big problem!!
Love the channel mate, have been watching your 3D printing videos for years and found your race car stuff by accident. So glad I did!
Hi, I’m a racing mechanic and we just stop the car going with the hand that it’s clear, and torque with the other one. Nevertheless, that’s a pretty good solution if you aren’t strong enough. Keep it up with the project. Looks amazing! Hopefully one day I can do one my self
You mean combating 350nm with one hand by holding the spoke it tyre? Very impressive if true.
@@TTRacingYT well, isn’t easy at first, but just by putting all your weight on the arm that has the dinamometer, and giving it a hard hit. You will make it. +having 90 kg of weight helps a bit ;)
I just use a macphersion strut shock absorber , slightly modified to fit . To push on the brake pedal while it anchors against the seat.
My man knows the TH-cam game
Such an amazing series.. I'm truly engrossed completely and glad that you're making these detailed videos!
3DP + CNC + Race car... Michael has basically reached Tony Start level fab lab.
Really enjoy the stingers at the end of your videos
While I never raced a Formula Car I used to race Go-Karts in my youth. I have had a wheel come off during learning how to drive the kart. Still not fun as my dad had to order replacement parts. Thankfully it happened in a dead end street while learning how to control it and not during a race. Although during one of my first races as a novice, I crashed into another kart (completely my fault), destroying my carburetor and never raced again as I became absolutely terrified of causing a more serious accident. Even to this day, almost 25 years later I do not like driving a car because of that accident. I wasn't even a teenager when all this happened.
Very nice 3rd leg, the nuts to!!! keep up the good work!!!
i torque my centre wheelnuts to 400nm. 1. you could have used a longer clamp....i use the clamp method and simply have it wedged between front of the seat edge and pedal. It's an inverted clamp so as you ratchet it, it pushes outwards, not in. No need to remove any bodywork and also a cheap effective method. That completely locks it. I also bought a torque wrench which breaks in the middle when you reach the desired torque. See norbar industrial wrench.
was putting the car in first gear not an option?
Maybe. With the air shift system is becomes complicated to do so. It also means getting in and out of the car to use the clutch. This was very cheap to make, and quick to use so I think it's a better solution.
FYI the Speads wheels can be self loosening. Make sure your wheels and hub surfaces are machined flat, as stuff can build up over time. We had a couple of wheels loosen. The retaining clip caught it and the driver brought it in. Other teams skipped these steps and lost their wheels.
I believe when this and the sister cars were built, some modifications were undertaken to make the system more reliable.
loving this channel so far
You are really living my dream, love your content keep it up!
Innovation at its best Michael.
Absolutely love your channel, has to be the best video title I have come across.
That quote "from Senna" was awesome hahahaha
Theres a difference between dry and lubricated fastener torque, you can and will overtorque the fasteners if you apply dry torque to lubricated threads! If you're taking the wheel nut off often, antiseize shouldn't be required.
I’m currently making a custom handbrake for my mk1 escort RS500 vented wilwood disc brake rear end.
The cable is easily the trickiest bit.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀♥️
Totally agree however antiseize is usually used in this scenario because of dissimilar metals. Steel spindles with aluminium nuts, etc.
Adding a line lock to your brakes would have bee a nice solution also, though not sure if you could due to regulations? This was a more creative fun way to accomplish it though.
That's possibly true. I haven't looked at that part of the regs either. Now that it's done I'm happy with this solution.
cant wait for the first drive. i hope its all you wished for
I love theses videos ! I never have to pay attention to the title, I know it is going to be interesting
Episode #47: “I decided to 3D print the entire car and all of it’s parts” 🤣🤣🤣
Don't tempt me :D
"You wouldn't download a car", pfft heck yeah I would, gimme the STL!
@@TTRacingYT 🤣👍🏽
Awww yis teaching techs nuts ❤❤
i like the ending for grasroots racer of any kind it makes sennse
Another great video. Keep up the good work :)
This is great, but the whole time I kept thinking “just make some big wheel chocks”. The bigger the wheel chock the more secure the car is held
Great engineering, really impressive. But yeah I just used wheel chocks and my foot never an issue. Rubber chocks work great as they stick to the tire
you might want to slap a small light on the small arm. its gonna be pretty dark in there and one of those cheap simple key ring light with a 3d printed holder would work just right.
Wow teaching tech 😮
This is nuts.
I achieved the same result by just using taller, curved blocks where/ if needed. Also hold the bar more parallel to the ground. fast and cheap. But nice engineering.
Please..... please..... make sure that you run wheel nut retaining pins on the spindles. I have prior experience of this. 230 km/h at Phillip island turn one. Not one.... twice! The only thing that saved my arse was the retaining pins. 👍🥃🇦🇺
Sounds terrifying! Don't worry, I definitely will be.
love it
I hate to add to your punchlist (and expenses) but do budget for some new tyres; the rubber on those old tyres is going to be rubbish (and potentially unsafe) for any decent speeds. Loving the series, and good luck with your journey!
Got me with your clickbait. Nothing like a man who knows how to handle his nuts ;D
I've always just used my foot. But another solution could be a line lock.
seems like there was a much easier way to achieve the same results. like putting it in gear, a longer clamp from the other side maybe even a brick.
You'll need a bigger trailer to carry you 3d printer and CNC Router to the races so you can make any ongoing spare parts or r&d ideas on the fly....
Keep up the great series for all of us "bar racers". 🏎
I have a cordless, portable 3d printer. It's little and I might take it as a joke.
@@TTRacingYT "Hey dude, I broke this plastic thingy, do you have a spare?", "Sure, gimme a vernier, my laptop and two to four hours."
I would have just installed a brake by wire system instead. Connect it to an app on my phone so I can lock brakes with a widget on my homescreen. Would also make for some hilarious moments when letting someone else drive
This is super fun but so over complicated lmao. Get bigger wheel chocks and torque it with the bar more horizontal instead of vertical.
ayo, great title.
Great stuff. Very impressive. I'd have just bought an air gun 😂
Do you use any sort of clip/pin to make sure those centre wheel nuts can't back out? I do for my bikes.
Yes, there is a locking pin.
What kind of tap wrench did you use at 10:54 ? I really like the handle design
The brand is 'Bordo': toolkitdepot.com.au/bordo-quick-change-ratchet-tap-wrench-t-pattern-4996-1-2qc/
Bro you can't race without a mechanic. Even if it's your flatmate or just mate (thanks Kieren Godfrey - mechanic to champions [not me]), it's not possible. You're going to come in off the track full of adrenalin, try to explain what and why, and you need a level head to make adjustments. You've already got a mate there. Bring him with you. He'll need less than the cost of tires 😂 I raced bikes for a minute and Kieren was the most important person in my life. There are so many two person jobs on track; you're definitely going to need someone else
Even if you don't have a mate there do you not think you could ask a fellow competitor to jump in the car for a sec and put the brakes on? Love your work; but don't overthink things (number 8 wire kiwi here) 😂
A much simpler and more elegant solution is available for this problem. You can purchase a torque limiting extension for a rattle gun they are engineered to yield and absorb the impacts from the gun after a certain torque you can purchase a 350nm one for $187 Australian dollars. with this all you need to do is give it the beans with your rattle gun and its perfect. to remove just use the rattle gun as normal.
Thanks for the tip, I didn't know they existed. If for some reason I get tired of my third leg I'll research some more. The rattle gun is a little violent though, I'm keen to not use it much.
Torque sticks are kinda inaccurate. They're good to "get there" but please ALWAYS double check, mine have about 10% error. Also they tend to overtight and strip lightweight alloys nuts and bolts (motorcycles have plenty of those, don't know about racecars).
Third leg lol
Great solution! But using the brakes for this means you'll need to be careful to never do this while the brakes are hot due to possible rotor warping right?
Quite possibly. Hadn't considered that but I will now. The pace of the events is such that I can wait for things to cool before changing wheels.
Don't get fooled by that Senna comment, he was from a well to do family, he was spending all his family's money, money he didn't really work for. He was from the 1% of the 1% of the 1%.
I think you are over thinking the wheel nut removal a bit. You put some 4"x4" blocks of wood around one of the tires and then instead of placing the wrench vertical you do it parallel to the ground so you aren't rocking the car forward or backwards you are pressing down into the ground or pulling straight up to loosen. You aren't going to want to have to remove bodywork and install the jig in between sessions etc just to change your tires that time is needed for fuel/temp checks and setup work.
You may have misunderstood. No bodywork needs removal to use the jig. That was the point. It's a 30 second job to slide it in and apply the brakes. It's also more compact then any wooden frame solution. The angle of the wrench makes no difference, you are applying torque and that will make the car roll.
@@TTRacingYT Trust me on the parallel vs upright wrench position. I agree it is all rotational when the nut is fully tight but as soon as it loosens even a little it makes all the difference. You also can hit it with your body weight when its parallel to the ground. We actually had a speads parked next to us this past weekend at the track man its wide chassis!
Once the nut has cracked, I absolutely agree. That's the easy part though!
I feel like buying this car is just a big excuse to 3d print as many components as possible
when will you get new tires the current ones looks really nasty
I think the first track day will be a shakedown and there is no point changing them for that. After that we'll see. You also have to remember that hot, soft slicks will pick up a bunch of junk in the pits and this is likely to come off when they are hot again.
Why would you just have a hydraulic secondary off your primary brake . That way if your brake pedal breaks ir get jammed you have a way to stop your car? Make it like a hand brake..
"I don't understand a word you just said".
They're called brake line locks and they have their own disadvantages. Any stuff you add to a system is stuff that can fail, that must be serviced, that adds weight and complexity. Definitely not something you want to have on your brake circuit unless you have a better option, and Micheal does. Also, they're definitely NOT designed to stop the car, it would be akin to stop a regular car by suddenly stomping on the brake pedal and suddenly pulling the handbrake at the same time (please don't try it at home).
it's a pity you've abandoned this channel and all the progress you've made with it. I noticed that you'd had the one video explode, and the rest weren't as big. I'm guessing that's leaving you feeling dejected? If you want to talk to someone who's also trying to grow an australian channel, I'm open to chats because i really want to see more of your journey
Maybe you don't know this but I have another channel with almost 500k subscribers. It's my full time job. Just delays here, but a new video very soon.
@@TTRacingYT oh damn I didn't. I just saw someone make a well viewed video, then return to reasonable view number for the size. I've seen this happen a bunch of times and they quit, so that was my assumption
but because this was quite intriguing, I didn't want you to quit. I'm happy to know you're more hardened than that, and await your future videos here
Fortunately this channel is a passion project. I'm just happy to share the journey and if it makes a bit of money it will offset costs a bit.
that's like the most expensive and worst way to do that lmao
had to make a handbrake because nobody was able to handle his nuts
This video is making me feel stupid 😮
Can you not just put the car in gear and torque the nuts? Thats what I do on my racecar
Engine needs to be started to activate the airshift to put it in gear. Means getting in and out of the car to use the clutch. Honestly this is easier.
@@TTRacingYT For sure, was just curious. In a different video about the airshift and happened to about firgure out the answer. You got a good workaround though! Love watching all your work arounds to issues you come upon
what a waste of time
With all due respect, have you ever tried to undo a nut or a bolt so tight...? FIY it's about three times the torque you'll need to tight the lugnuts of an average car.
Internet commentators know best, there's no point trying to correct what is already correct.
@@tommythebiker3081 yep. The large torque wrench is the right tool for it. But the time spent on the over engineered "handbrake" would be better spent elsewhere. He's going to have others around when this thing is on the track
@@radialorbitsYou're telling me you've never been alone when taking your wheels off? For caliper/pad, suspension/bushings, etc., it's well worth it to be able to get the wheels off alone (without having to start the car every time and deal with the wear)