You CAN remove the bottom nut off the VE pump without buying that tool. You just need a torch and a 13 mm wrench. Heat the wrench with the torch and bend the wrench......It took me longer to bend the 13 mm than it did to take everything else off or out of the way in order to remove the pump.
Yeah I think I may have talked about that in the video or maybe it was the injector puller that you could make yourself. That is a good tip. I just bought one because it wasn’t that expensive.
Thanks for all this information and not skipping all the vital info like other videos… an switching to p pump as we speak will be using your videos for reference
Thanks for the vid. About to remove my pump. Just wanted to add you're supposed to mark the pump at one of the three mounting nuts before removal. Thanks again!
just got a new ve 205 to replace my non ic ve114 a week into it ive been trying to find out why i see no air getting in anywhere but i got air at injectors the thread pitch on the delivery valves is different!! they went on fine but i guess its wrong!? what a pain that was
Been working on my van (VE Pump reseal/Cambelt change etc) and I too had an issue with the damper/harmonic balancer...but it too only came off with a couple of taps (okay a couple of hundred taps) with a hammer in the right places...quite a few of the 'specialist tools' I have bought haven't been up to the job but sometimes you just need a bit of luck and maybe a small bit of brute force...
You can and I thought I talked about that in the video. Just take you oil fill tube off and the nut and gear is behind it. Just be very careful not to drop the nut inside the front cover or you will have to take it off.
Couple questions for ya. If doing this in the truck, you'd find TDC, put the timing pin in and leave until you get the pump off and on? Then once the new pump is on, pull the timing pin?
Hi Ryan I know this video is 2 years old, just too my ve pump out on on the JCB shovel, came out with the pump shaft in the same position as yours, had the pump rebuilt and it was sent back to me 180° out, the engine is timed perfectly have checked and re-checked this, and the pump has been timed to fire at tdc 1 (port D on pump) the engine and pump don't line up with the key slots, have tried turning the pump and refitting and have tried turning the engine to suit the pump still no smoke any help would be great
Getting my 4bt 3.9 bosch rebuilt. I'm not sure if the motor was timed right. If I time the motor like you did with flashlight into hole...and my rebuild comes back timed. I should be good right. ( p pump )
Quick question, so I have a leak in one of my seals for my VE pump, curious as to if I’m going to have to take everything off like you did and set the timing right, like you did to just take it off and replace the seal? Would love some feedback
Billy Traughber You don’t have to take everything off like I did but I would recommend putting the engine at TDC when/if you take the pump off. Also if you are taking the pump apart in any way to replace any seals, I would make sure the pump is timed correctly after you put it back together and before you put it back on the truck. There is also an internal timing mechanism inside the pump. If the shaft of the pump gets rotated while it’s off the truck, it could get the pump out of time. I’m not sure how to set timing on a VE pump.
Ryan Wardlow okay thanks so much for your feedback. I’m hoping to fix the seal, I have a 1990 dodge Cummins that was given to me after my dad passed away and he never had time to work on it so it sat for 6 years in Alabama and 2 in Michigan, I got it running the other day and the seal towards the back of the VE pump is leaking really bad. I’m just now getting into workin on these things and I’m only 17, struggling to figure out the best way to do it without fucking it up
Billy Traughber Sorry about your dad man. I lost mine 9 years ago. It’s tough to go through. Glad you fixing up his old truck. I bet he’d be proud. Just take your time and you’ll get there. Watch plenty of videos and ask questions. I’ll be glad to help anyway I can. Be careful with the pump though. I don’t mess with pumps to much cause you can really mess things up if your not careful lol
Hey man we swapped the ve pump in my 12 valve and i'm pretty sure the timing's off. We've bled it multiple times and it oozes out bubbles at the injectors and the head of the pump. We checked the gear timing in the case and it's good, so I'm at a loss with how to set the timing at the pump. Does the pump need to be re-calibrated now or something, we didn't set it at tdc when taking my old one out. we had to rotate the newer pump just to get the key to line up. any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Legendary Gamer Hey sorry for the late response. If you didn’t set it at TDC before taking your VE off you will have to get your VE pump timed to TDC. I wish I could help you with that but I’m not sure how to do that myself. That’s why I set the engine at TDC when I took the VE pump off.
Can I bypass my intake air temp sensor and run a second line of 12 volts to the little regulator looking device on the side of the ve pump. I want power. it is never cold here and this engine is in a ford now anyway.
Bo H I’m sure you can bypass the sensor but I don’t think that is gonna give you more power. The VE and P 7100 are mechanical pumps so you can’t really ad more power to them electronically.
@@ryanwardlow455 Thanks. I was not looking for more power I was just trying to figure out if it was not working would it be killing power. After much reading if I bypass it then it would raise internal pump pressure only at idle and would soon ruin the pump. I will just leave it alone. I raise my timing approx 1/8 inch, ported and polished the turbo, Mine does not have anti-whistle ring. My engine though only 169k miles just seems so weak compared to my stock 96 powerstroke. I still am glad I put it in the 95 f350 crewcab for the simplicity of the engine is nice. I really am just after the most mpg I can get out of it and normally a touch stronger engine normally does not work as hard thus uses less fuel. Now of course not if you turn them up to much after burnout power. I will keep my head gaskets etc all stock. Thanks for the time replying.
Did you lock the pump before you pulled it? You didn't show that or mention it. That is a very important step!
You CAN remove the bottom nut off the VE pump without buying that tool. You just need a torch and a 13 mm wrench. Heat the wrench with the torch and bend the wrench......It took me longer to bend the 13 mm than it did to take everything else off or out of the way in order to remove the pump.
Yeah I think I may have talked about that in the video or maybe it was the injector puller that you could make yourself. That is a good tip. I just bought one because it wasn’t that expensive.
Thanks for all this information and not skipping all the vital info like other videos… an switching to p pump as we speak will be using your videos for reference
Thanks for the vid. About to remove my pump.
Just wanted to add you're supposed to mark the pump at one of the three mounting nuts before removal.
Thanks again!
Good tip!
Thanks for putting this info out there. I learned alot
just got a new ve 205 to replace my non ic ve114 a week into it ive been trying to find out why i see no air getting in anywhere but i got air at injectors the thread pitch on the delivery valves is different!! they went on fine but i guess its wrong!? what a pain that was
Been working on my van (VE Pump reseal/Cambelt change etc) and I too had an issue with the damper/harmonic balancer...but it too only came off with a couple of taps (okay a couple of hundred taps) with a hammer in the right places...quite a few of the 'specialist tools' I have bought haven't been up to the job but sometimes you just need a bit of luck and maybe a small bit of brute force...
Malcolm Young what engine are you working on that has a ve pump and a belt on the cam? Vw?
I was going to say “doesn’t that damper just unbolt and come off?” Haha
Yeah I didn’t know if it would or not lol I’ve had problems get a couple off a tractor before so I thought it would be the same.
Any advice. I pulled my pump and thought the motor was at tdc but it was not. How do I get the motor at tdc without the pump in there ?
So you do not have to pull the key out to remove the gear?
I was told you can take the pump off with out taking the front cover off, ?
You can and I thought I talked about that in the video. Just take you oil fill tube off and the nut and gear is behind it. Just be very careful not to drop the nut inside the front cover or you will have to take it off.
Couple questions for ya. If doing this in the truck, you'd find TDC, put the timing pin in and leave until you get the pump off and on? Then once the new pump is on, pull the timing pin?
Hi Ryan I know this video is 2 years old, just too my ve pump out on on the JCB shovel, came out with the pump shaft in the same position as yours, had the pump rebuilt and it was sent back to me 180° out, the engine is timed perfectly have checked and re-checked this, and the pump has been timed to fire at tdc 1 (port D on pump) the engine and pump don't line up with the key slots, have tried turning the pump and refitting and have tried turning the engine to suit the pump still no smoke any help would be great
Getting my 4bt 3.9 bosch rebuilt. I'm not sure if the motor was timed right.
If I time the motor like you did with flashlight into hole...and my rebuild comes back timed. I should be good right. ( p pump )
Work In Progress USA I would think so. If they time the pump when it’s rebuilt and your engine is on TDC then it should be good to go
Quick question, so I have a leak in one of my seals for my VE pump, curious as to if I’m going to have to take everything off like you did and set the timing right, like you did to just take it off and replace the seal? Would love some feedback
Billy Traughber You don’t have to take everything off like I did but I would recommend putting the engine at TDC when/if you take the pump off. Also if you are taking the pump apart in any way to replace any seals, I would make sure the pump is timed correctly after you put it back together and before you put it back on the truck. There is also an internal timing mechanism inside the pump. If the shaft of the pump gets rotated while it’s off the truck, it could get the pump out of time. I’m not sure how to set timing on a VE pump.
Ryan Wardlow okay thanks so much for your feedback. I’m hoping to fix the seal, I have a 1990 dodge Cummins that was given to me after my dad passed away and he never had time to work on it so it sat for 6 years in Alabama and 2 in Michigan, I got it running the other day and the seal towards the back of the VE pump is leaking really bad. I’m just now getting into workin on these things and I’m only 17, struggling to figure out the best way to do it without fucking it up
Billy Traughber Sorry about your dad man. I lost mine 9 years ago. It’s tough to go through. Glad you fixing up his old truck. I bet he’d be proud. Just take your time and you’ll get there. Watch plenty of videos and ask questions. I’ll be glad to help anyway I can. Be careful with the pump though. I don’t mess with pumps to much cause you can really mess things up if your not careful lol
Hey man we swapped the ve pump in my 12 valve and i'm pretty sure the timing's off. We've bled it multiple times and it oozes out bubbles at the injectors and the head of the pump. We checked the gear timing in the case and it's good, so I'm at a loss with how to set the timing at the pump. Does the pump need to be re-calibrated now or something, we didn't set it at tdc when taking my old one out. we had to rotate the newer pump just to get the key to line up. any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Legendary Gamer Hey sorry for the late response. If you didn’t set it at TDC before taking your VE off you will have to get your VE pump timed to TDC. I wish I could help you with that but I’m not sure how to do that myself. That’s why I set the engine at TDC when I took the VE pump off.
Can I bypass my intake air temp sensor and run a second line of 12 volts to the little regulator looking device on the side of the ve pump. I want power. it is never cold here and this engine is in a ford now anyway.
Bo H I’m sure you can bypass the sensor but I don’t think that is gonna give you more power. The VE and P 7100 are mechanical pumps so you can’t really ad more power to them electronically.
@@ryanwardlow455 Thanks. I was not looking for more power I was just trying to figure out if it was not working would it be killing power. After much reading if I bypass it then it would raise internal pump pressure only at idle and would soon ruin the pump. I will just leave it alone. I raise my timing approx 1/8 inch, ported and polished the turbo, Mine does not have anti-whistle ring. My engine though only 169k miles just seems so weak compared to my stock 96 powerstroke. I still am glad I put it in the 95 f350 crewcab for the simplicity of the engine is nice. I really am just after the most mpg I can get out of it and normally a touch stronger engine normally does not work as hard thus uses less fuel. Now of course not if you turn them up to much after burnout power. I will keep my head gaskets etc all stock. Thanks for the time replying.
I was going to say grind it to fit the bolt lol
Thanks.
Strip it down!