If you used open cell foam, the wood it covers will rot. There're people in England suffering from wood rot, due to open cell foam allowing moisture to collect and rot the wood. If you used closed cell, good to go.
@@davepost7675 …the foam patch being pulled off the substrate when fresh/hot is what we did a lot of to close in rafter ends that did not have backups in a pinch, otherwise we pre did the backups. When something is missed the patch/pull works
It's always enjoyable to watch craftsmen at work. Your shop will definitely be more comfortable to work in. And the foam helps to deaden sound as well. Good choice, Mr. Elliot.
Worked on the Space Shuttle External Fuel Tank Project. It was completely sprayed in close cell foam on the exterior. I think the stuff is a fantastic material to use for insulation in buildings. Very much enjoy this channel. My cousins had an ancient belt driven circular saw mill up in Maine. The whole thing collapsed one winter due to wet and heavy snow.
@@DRAGNET-pn5vf It was old, mortise and tenon and pegs. It was actually powered by a Model T engine and belts. Never did hear what they might have done but they only ran it in summer. They were shipbuilders, like my dad.
That's interesting. I didn't know that foam was used on the space shuttle. I'm wondering if NASA developed it. I live in the southeast so snow load isn't a problem. Sorry about your cousin's sawmill roof. Certainly get some big snow times up in the northern parts of the country.
I bet they use at least 1-2 barrels of product to spray closed cell on both boosters. No! Wait? 110-230 barrels per booster X 2 is more like it! lol. You get a lot of foam for $3,000 on each booster with close cell, or was that $300,000 each? Sorry about the sawmill as well. Seriously. Snow and dirt against walls have to be calculated as 7lbs per square foot just as if water. I built a garage with 12 foot high blocks, back wall up to the last 8”, sides tapered. Engineering told they use the full weight of water per square foot to figure load! Be careful! Man was it cool in the summer. 34’ X 24’ or six vehicles, steel walk thru door and 14’ wide by 10’ high. Wife wanted bigger house, now I got a tiny 1 1/2 car garage with bigger house on top. Damn.
It’s so impressive to watch the insulation being installed. I’m sure you will enjoy this for many years and will be more healthier for you. Nice work!!
That will make a world of difference for your Mr. Cool. I put closed cell in my shop ceiling and in the walls before I started building it out. Even without the mini split, It was evident how much the improvement was. Bill
Nathan, good decision to have them install the foam insulation above the shop. You also will notice difference for heating and cooling. Great shop for generations.
I do spray foam for a living and always advise customers that open cell on an exterior substrate is a very bad idea. In the event something happens to the structure that would allow water infiltration the open cell foam will absorb that water where closed cell will not absorb water
Exactly. A roof leak, the open cell will absorb water like sponge and potentially overload the roof structure to the point of failure. Additionally, moistened closed cell could become a medium for mold growth.
question... say you have closed cell on roof or exterior and a nail gets poked through and then removed.. for whatever reason.... will the closed cell seal that leak if water got in?
Amazing how quickly it dries yet is malleable enough to remove from overhead and placed on the backside of the fascia. The technology is INCREDIBLE. Thanks for the great video!
I’m just south of you, I too had a professional (out of Knoxville), to spray ‘closed cell’, on all exterior walls (I removed the sheetrock). Also the open-beam ceiling in the master bedroom. Wow, what a difference! Best investment I’ve made, to our house…..
I had them spray my wood working shop 50x60 side walls and ceiling plus heated floors with central air and friend it makes it alot more enjoyable to work in there.
Fascinating! I was wondering how they were going to do the ends of the joist bays. What a clever solution. I have to look into this for my house - it's from the 1940's and the attic is uninsulated. I think it's time.
You named two good reasons to hire the professional guys. The number three reason, for me would be time! I'm sure I would have been able to do it probably four or five hours more than they did! Time is money! God bless!
Number 4 reason is that you won’t have visits to the chiropractor for neck pain. I was impressed at how fast the foam spraying was. The value was in the time spent in prep work of covering things with plastic and cleaning afterward.
I had the same thing done at my old place. 20x40 at 12' up. Prices were all over the place. Think I paid $1,600 at the time and was happy to do it. After a lot of looking, you can't do it yourself cheaper. You could heat that shop with a match just about. I miss that shop! I would love to have my new place foamed.
The other reason to hire the pros for just about anything, is the speed at which they can finish the job. I suspect that job didn't take more than a half day to complete.
It would be a good idea. I think it either needs a fire resistant coating or some sort of paneling/drywall to be up to code in a house. Not sure if that applies in a workshop.
Will you cover the foam to hide the foam? That stuff is amazing. I love to do it yourself with a lot stuff. BUT sometimes the time saved, the knowledge of experts, the experience they have and the muscle energy saved just makes better sense. Again Thanks.
Great decision to use open cell on the roof and to have a pro installer do it. You had said, open cell at your application level was equivalent to R19, I believe. There is an additional R value to using spray foam that is hard to verify but I have seen over time as an HVAC contractor. My experience has been; "Real R value" is much higher; I believe it to be R 30 or better because of the UV rejection with the encapsulated roof or better yet the whole structure. I like to see that you built your shop with old school sawed lumber and covered it with new day foam "-)
If you make more or the same doing your work . don't stop your work to do theirs. As pros they will do it faster and usually better . I've tried the DIY in lots of projects. The projects were good but it took 4 times as long . Seen a dry wall taper and Mudder make magic one day the craftsmanship was a show of wonder . WOW
This is a good argument if, two things, you have unlimited work opportunities, AND you like doing your professional work enough to do it all the time, oh and one more thing I forgot, if you do your work and get paid you pay taxes on that and then have less money with which to pay them. If you DIY the tax man gets left out of the game. Lastly its not even 50% of the time that the guy I hire does better work than I do, at anything. They are there to get in and out as fast as possible.
Was that a mr kool air cond/split I saw in your shop prior to the installation? Saw another you tuber put in one 2 weeks ago and they love it. Just being snoopy wondering if it was one and is it installed yet? I need one and the 36,000 unit is what I’m thinking about. Love your videos and now have my wife watching also.
Surprised you opted for open cell as it doesn't have the vapor permeability and structural stiffness benefits of closed cell. Closed cell is also R7-7.5 per inch while open cell is about R3-3.5 per inch. But perhaps there was a reason that the contractor recommended it for your specific job. Regardless, you're going to notice a huge difference in comfort as you already note in the video.
I heard open cell allows the wood to allow moisture thru so the wood doesn't rot underneath the foam. That's a big problem for these foam installations, so it has to be the right type or the wood rots in a few years
The ceiling in my little shop is the underside of the tin roof. In the summer the heat radiates straight down. Feels like an oven and in winter the heat from the heater goes straight out the roof. After watching this video I'm going to do this. Tried fiberglass insulation and wound up with a large family of rats in the ceiling. Not doing that again. lol.
Good stuff. When I did my shop, a local company quoted me cheaper for 3-1/2" closed cell walls and 5" open cell ceiling than I could have actually bought the diy kits for. I was instantly sold. 2 years later still no regrets.
I had a professional company spray the purple closed cell around the sill plate of my house using the full-sized drums you saw here. Initially, they were going to use kits but after seeing the size of the job called in their foam truck & applied closed cell purple foam. They said it was much cheaper, faster & did a better job than the kits. Watched many videos on the small kits & it looks tedious & nowhere as nice as professionally installed foam.
That's a reasonable price in my opinion. I'm definitely going to use those guys when I'm ready, very professional. They're in my neck of the woods, so to speak lol. Thanks for the video!
Was Wonderin’ how they’d fill Those daylight gaps in the soffit areas .. Great the way they can manufacture a sheet then stuffit in the Gap and use it as a base to go right over…so many ways to play with that stuff….
Sure looks like they did a good job for you. I liked watching how methodical he was in letting it do what it does then hit it again when needed. Are you going to close the rafter tails on the outside? Curious if it will be a problem with critters being left exposed to the outside. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. A couple questions please? Is there a structural concern with a spray foam? Some people told me that it can hinder the expansion and retraction of the wooden structure possibly damaging it. Second, do you recommend to put in an air chamber before spraying it?
Great job Nathan, very well installed and cleaned up after and a reasonable price too. Now when you get everything put back together and get busy in there then you'll be happy too. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Several years ago I put fiberglass insulation in the ceiling and it didn't take long for a family of rats to make a home in it. I got rid of the rats after taking the insulation down and chasing the rats out from behind things with a leaf blower and letting my dog, a terrier mix, take care of them. His enthusiasm going after and killing rats was out the roof and when he was done the rats were too. Guess that's why some terriers got the nick name rat terriers. Anyway, it was very cool and interesting how the foam was done and expanded. The part where he sprayed just a little and pulled it off and stuck it in soffit was really cool. I wouldn't have guessed you could do that so soon without the foam sticking like super glue to your gloves and hands.
Closed cell is more but provides an air barrier and moves the thermal barrier further towards the wall. Hope is not to humid but 6mil plastic moisture barrier can be stapled to ceiling be any dry wall. I use LED bulbs in my old fluorescent bulb fixtures, painted walls bright white. Huge difference and very easy to see with new lights. My garage is not as big by far as yours but saving money plus no more ballasts failing!
5 inches of open cell foam has an R value of 19, whereas 3 inches of closed cell foam has an R value of 21. I had my steel barn sprayed with 3 inches of closed cell foam and installed a mini split HVAC unit and it stays 72° inside with the unit set at 73°.
Thanks for the video! Going to do this on my cabin, on bedrooms... very similar ceiling/roof situation! But I would love to see how they trimmed it off the rafters and evened out high spots (low spots, I suppose) in case you want to install a ceiling.
Open cell foam allows moisture to escape while closed cell foam will cause condensation to accumulate on surfaces and mold will form if the room is too tightly sealed. My grandfather taught me about this in detail because quite frankly I don’t understand why the building codes are set up quite the way they are with vapor barriers(the initial conversation) because whether the vapor barrier is on the inside or the outside of the insulation doesn’t seem to make any functional difference to me, but I am not an expert. Closed cell foam acts as a vapor barrier as well as insulation, so you can’t use it on walls AND ceiling, but you could use it on the walls but use open cell on the ceiling to allow moisture to escape. The easiest way to remember the difference between open cell foam and closed. Cell phone is to think of the big blocks of foam under a dock; those are made of closed cell foam so they will never get waterlogged. Closed cells are similar to a bunch of individual little balloons each trapping air. Open Cell foam is like a kitchen sponge.
I worry that the foam will produce harmful vapors for a long time. We have already experienced many building products with formaldehyde. Look what happened with the FIMA trailers that were made for the Katrina victims. I will stick to fiberglass insulation.
Unfortunately open-cell spray foam is a poor choice for roof decks. Opened cell is vapor permeable meaning moisture carried by air will infiltrate the foam and "ping pong" up to the highest point in the roof deck (usually the ridge). This roof may experience ridge rot within 3-5 years. A way to avoid this is to spray at least 2 inches of closed cell foam then spray open over it.
That will lower the temp of the closed cell creating a condensing surface. Instead, moisture will condense on the back of the closed cell & accumulate at the bottom of the roof. Closed cell should be used full thickness or not at all.
@rangerdoc1029 what? Define full thickness. Are you familiar with temperature gradient? Ccsf doesn't know if it's "full thickness" or not. Very few things in nature are all or nothing. So if you 5mm shy of "full thickness" you've created a plane of condensation? The principle is to have enough ccsf to maintain a temp higher than the dew point on the interior surface of the foam layer. That amount is roughly 2" for most places in the lower 48. After 2" of ccsf you can put whatever you want over it (batt, cellulose, etc)
If the foam would have been closed cell, ya good idea. Open cell isn’t great as it isn’t as good a vapor barrier and it doesn’t do good with water. Problem with open cell and a ceiling is if it leaks your in big trouble. Closed cell actually seals the ceiling and will keep the water out or if it does come in, water has zero affect on closed cell. Problem with closed cell is it’s more expensive, you paid 1,800 for that, would have been probably closer to 3,000 for closed cell.
Closed cell should be on the celing I would have installed 2" closed cell in the rafters came back over it with closed cell. You cant go by R value also i would have put 1x1 in each rafter to hold the foam board off the bottom of the roof deck and made sure air could flow behind it with soffit vents and rige vent , Then put on closed cell around the edges , this stuff has to be covered If it catches on fire the fumez are deadly.
You may have stopped reading these comments by now, but I'm going to give it a try anyway.... I'm an old guy (73), retired (12 years) former commercial designer/sales/builder/troubleshooter, built several of my own homes. I'm currently living in West Tennessee. Something no one has mentioned apparently is that leaving the foam open to the air may be a safety issue. I'm building my 'last' home (near Jackson, TN) and having foam professionally installed on two rooms that have vaulted ceilings. In checking local codes, I am required to have a 15 minute fire barrier enclosing the foam... now you are in a shop and probably not being inspected, but it might still be prudent, because a shop fire is certainly more possible with all that you have going on in there. ...also, I'd check to see if the foam will continue to release toxic gases... another thought would be to check to see if the foam particles continue to release or drift in the atmosphere over time.... just some thoughts, because I'll be buuilding another shop down the road, if I ever finish this frickn' house....(going on 6 years, but I've had no crew or heavy equipment...just me, myself and I) and life has a way of getting in the way... :>) best regards, hope your shop is providing for you...
Well done Nathan it’s done now and you can reap the benefits of their knowledge and skills. By the way it reminded me of a Tsunami working it’s way across the ceiling! 🌊🌊🌊
Nathan - Are you going to put something on the ceiling and walls to give your workshop a nice surface appearance (ship lap boards or roofing/metal sheeting)? A talented, hardworking guy like you deserves a good-looking place to work to showcase your handiwork.
Using open-cell foam in place of closed-cell for insulation, especially in certain applications, can indeed be risky and often short-sighted, depending on the building type and climate. Here’s why it can be problematic: Water Absorption: Open-cell foam can absorb moisture since the cells aren’t sealed. This can lead to mold growth and reduced insulation performance in humid or damp environments. In exterior walls or roofs, moisture buildup could be disastrous over time, potentially causing structural damage. Insulation Efficiency: Closed-cell foam has a higher R-value per inch, so it provides better insulation in tight spaces. Using open-cell foam where insulation space is limited means you’re losing some of that insulating power. In colder or extreme climates, it may not perform well enough to maintain the interior temperature. Structural Support: Closed-cell foam adds some structural rigidity, which can be a bonus in walls or other areas that benefit from extra strength. Open-cell foam is more flexible, so it doesn’t provide this added stability. So unless the application specifically calls for the flexibility or soundproofing of open-cell foam, it usually isn’t the best choice for building insulation.
I went through the "froth-pack" trials too! What a joke for me! Ended up paying $700 for my 40x8 container ceiling and walls, closed cell! I'll never try it again.
It will reduce your cell phone availability inside, but well worth it. Probably helps with other stuff I haven’t discovered yet. Also, take the top if of aluminum cans, then stuff with cob mud and sand then stack them between the studs inside the walls. Thermal mass and reflective. If you use these in videos, don’t forget my ten percent. I don’t know how to do videos, but I’ve got tons of things for some open source inventions for off grid life.
I think that DIY most likely costs more for large jobs as well. I have a metal building and will be going with closed cell. I will be having the ceiling done to keep from sweating. I am thinking about the walls as well but am giving it more thought because I still need to run electrical and may want to finish it off later. Much thought has to go into the job than just do it. I am happy that you like your job, but I think it's pretty ugly to look at even if it works. Thanks for sharing.
DIY Spray Foam Kit I Previously Used: amzn.to/3ZDqrRJ
After watching you and others DIY this stuff
I see no benefit in doing this stuff yourself
Thanks for sharing 👍
If you used open cell foam, the wood it covers will rot. There're people in England suffering from wood rot, due to open cell foam allowing moisture to collect and rot the wood. If you used closed cell, good to go.
The technique of spraying a patch on the ceiling then to pull it down and use it as a barrier is brilliant.
@@davepost7675 …the foam patch being pulled off the substrate when fresh/hot is what we did a lot of to close in rafter ends that did not have backups in a pinch, otherwise we pre did the backups. When something is missed the patch/pull works
what a process. Loved the trick he used to seal the eaves between the rafters
It's always enjoyable to watch craftsmen at work. Your shop will definitely be more comfortable to work in. And the foam helps to deaden sound as well. Good choice, Mr. Elliot.
Agreed 100%
Worked on the Space Shuttle External Fuel Tank Project. It was completely sprayed in close cell foam on the exterior. I think the stuff is a fantastic material to use for insulation in buildings. Very much enjoy this channel. My cousins had an ancient belt driven circular saw mill up in Maine. The whole thing collapsed one winter due to wet and heavy snow.
That’s sad.
I HOPE THEY RECOVERED. THANKS FOR SHARING.🇺🇲👍🏻
@@DRAGNET-pn5vf It was old, mortise and tenon and pegs. It was actually powered by a Model T engine and belts. Never did hear what they might have done but they only ran it in summer. They were shipbuilders, like my dad.
That's interesting. I didn't know that foam was used on the space shuttle. I'm wondering if NASA developed it. I live in the southeast so snow load isn't a problem. Sorry about your cousin's sawmill roof. Certainly get some big snow times up in the northern parts of the country.
I bet they use at least 1-2 barrels of product to spray closed cell on both boosters. No! Wait? 110-230 barrels per booster X 2 is more like it! lol. You get a lot of foam for $3,000 on each booster with close cell, or was that $300,000 each?
Sorry about the sawmill as well. Seriously. Snow and dirt against walls have to be calculated as 7lbs per square foot just as if water. I built a garage with 12 foot high blocks, back wall up to the last 8”, sides tapered. Engineering told they use the full weight of water per square foot to figure load! Be careful! Man was it cool in the summer. 34’ X 24’ or six vehicles, steel walk thru door and 14’ wide by 10’ high. Wife wanted bigger house, now I got a tiny 1 1/2 car garage with bigger house on top. Damn.
It's amazing how much that stuff expands.
cleanest foam trailer Ive ever seen. Easy to see theses guys care about their work.
Checked out their address on Google earth .they’re not a fly by night outfit by any means…
That's one way to look at a company, see if the rig is messed up, but also they might have just bought it.
It’s so impressive to watch the insulation being installed.
I’m sure you will enjoy this for many years and will be more healthier for you.
Nice work!!
That will make a world of difference for your Mr. Cool. I put closed cell in my shop ceiling and in the walls before I started building it out. Even without the mini split, It was evident how much the improvement was.
Bill
Nice 👍
Nathan, good decision to have them install the foam insulation above the shop. You also will notice difference for heating and cooling. Great shop for generations.
That spray foam process is almost hypnotic! Couldn’t get enough!
The guy doing the spraying is a master at this craft! The eave trick was amazing!
I do spray foam for a living and always advise customers that open cell on an exterior substrate is a very bad idea. In the event something happens to the structure that would allow water infiltration the open cell foam will absorb that water where closed cell will not absorb water
Exactly. A roof leak, the open cell will absorb water like sponge and potentially overload the roof structure to the point of failure. Additionally, moistened closed cell could become a medium for mold growth.
@@MASTER3RDEYE modern closed cell does not promote mold growth
Very educational thanks.
Also ran a foam company and confirm you are absolutely correct
question... say you have closed cell on roof or exterior and a nail gets poked through and then removed.. for whatever reason.... will the closed cell seal that leak if water got in?
Amazing how quickly it dries yet is malleable enough to remove from overhead and placed on the backside of the fascia. The technology is INCREDIBLE.
Thanks for the great video!
Yes, exactly
You are such a joy to listen to. The way the explanations are handled are special, Nathan, Start a class on being southern polite.
open cell does not have vapor barrier properties, but closed cell should have a higher R value per inch and provide vapor barrier characteristics.
I’m just south of you, I too had a professional (out of Knoxville), to spray ‘closed cell’, on all exterior walls (I removed the sheetrock). Also the open-beam ceiling in the master bedroom. Wow, what a difference! Best investment I’ve made, to our house…..
I had them spray my wood working shop 50x60 side walls and ceiling plus heated floors with central air and friend it makes it alot more enjoyable to work in there.
Thanks Nathan for showing the foam insulation video that really makes big difference on temperature of your shop .
Wow that stuff expands like crazy. Loved how he closed off the eves.
There is something so satisfying about watching this process...
Fascinating! I was wondering how they were going to do the ends of the joist bays. What a clever solution. I have to look into this for my house - it's from the 1940's and the attic is uninsulated. I think it's time.
You named two good reasons to hire the professional guys. The number three reason, for me would be time! I'm sure I would have been able to do it probably four or five hours more than they did! Time is money! God bless!
Number 4 reason is that you won’t have visits to the chiropractor for neck pain. I was impressed at how fast the foam spraying was. The value was in the time spent in prep work of covering things with plastic and cleaning afterward.
That spray man takes pride in his work. That’s hard to find nowadays
Prep is great 👍 the installation is top notch! That is fantastic!
A galvanized steel spring curry horse comb works well to scrape off any high spots on your ceiling joists. If you plan on paneling in the future.
I was wondering about how to do that. I was thinking about a huge wire cheese slicer. LOL.
I had the same thing done at my old place. 20x40 at 12' up. Prices were all over the place. Think I paid $1,600 at the time and was happy to do it. After a lot of looking, you can't do it yourself cheaper. You could heat that shop with a match just about. I miss that shop!
I would love to have my new place foamed.
The other reason to hire the pros for just about anything, is the speed at which they can finish the job. I suspect that job didn't take more than a half day to complete.
Looks like they did a terrific job. Are you lining the ceilings and walls to encapsulate the insulation? Thanks as always for the video.
It would be a good idea. I think it either needs a fire resistant coating or some sort of paneling/drywall to be up to code in a house. Not sure if that applies in a workshop.
Will you cover the foam to hide the foam? That stuff is amazing. I love to do it yourself with a lot stuff. BUT sometimes the time saved, the knowledge of experts, the experience they have and the muscle energy saved just makes better sense. Again Thanks.
Great decision to use open cell on the roof and to have a pro installer do it. You had said, open cell at your application level was equivalent to R19, I believe. There is an additional R value to using spray foam that is hard to verify but I have seen over time as an HVAC contractor. My experience has been; "Real R value" is much higher; I believe it to be R 30 or better because of the UV rejection with the encapsulated roof or better yet the whole structure. I like to see that you built your shop with old school sawed lumber and covered it with new day foam "-)
Had this done when I finished second story , been 4 years now the best thing I could have ever done
I've done roofing with polyurethane spray foam and elastomeric coatings. It's like putting down a seamless roof. Great stuff.
If you make more or the same doing your work . don't stop your work to do theirs. As pros they will do it faster and usually better . I've tried the DIY in lots of projects. The projects were good but it took 4 times as long . Seen a dry wall taper and Mudder make magic one day the craftsmanship was a show of wonder . WOW
This is a good argument if, two things, you have unlimited work opportunities, AND you like doing your professional work enough to do it all the time, oh and one more thing I forgot, if you do your work and get paid you pay taxes on that and then have less money with which to pay them. If you DIY the tax man gets left out of the game. Lastly its not even 50% of the time that the guy I hire does better work than I do, at anything. They are there to get in and out as fast as possible.
That’s so cool I can watch your videos all day long nice job.
Thanks 👍
Was that a mr kool air cond/split I saw in your shop prior to the installation? Saw another you tuber put in one 2 weeks ago and they love it. Just being snoopy wondering if it was one and is it installed yet? I need one and the 36,000 unit is what I’m thinking about. Love your videos and now have my wife watching also.
Surprised you opted for open cell as it doesn't have the vapor permeability and structural stiffness benefits of closed cell. Closed cell is also R7-7.5 per inch while open cell is about R3-3.5 per inch. But perhaps there was a reason that the contractor recommended it for your specific job. Regardless, you're going to notice a huge difference in comfort as you already note in the video.
I heard open cell allows the wood to allow moisture thru so the wood doesn't rot underneath the foam. That's a big problem for these foam installations, so it has to be the right type or the wood rots in a few years
The ceiling in my little shop is the underside of the tin roof. In the summer the heat radiates straight down. Feels like an oven and in winter the heat from the heater goes straight out the roof. After watching this video I'm going to do this. Tried fiberglass insulation and wound up with a large family of rats in the ceiling. Not doing that again. lol.
Isn't it just the opposite? That open cell is the one with moisture permeability? Permeable means subject to.
I love to watch people who know what they are doing
Good stuff. When I did my shop, a local company quoted me cheaper for 3-1/2" closed cell walls and 5" open cell ceiling than I could have actually bought the diy kits for. I was instantly sold. 2 years later still no regrets.
Good stuff!
I had a professional company spray the purple closed cell around the sill plate of my house using the full-sized drums you saw here. Initially, they were going to use kits but after seeing the size of the job called in their foam truck & applied closed cell purple foam. They said it was much cheaper, faster & did a better job than the kits. Watched many videos on the small kits & it looks tedious & nowhere as nice as professionally installed foam.
How do you plan on finishing the ceiling? Wood, metal?
Not sure. Might leave it open
That's a reasonable price in my opinion. I'm definitely going to use those guys when I'm ready, very professional. They're in my neck of the woods, so to speak lol. Thanks for the video!
Was Wonderin’ how they’d fill Those daylight gaps in the soffit areas .. Great the way they can manufacture a sheet then stuffit in the Gap and use it as a base to go right over…so many ways to play with that stuff….
It warms my heart.
Very satisfying to watch.
Sure looks like they did a good job for you. I liked watching how methodical he was in letting it do what it does then hit it again when needed. Are you going to close the rafter tails on the outside? Curious if it will be a problem with critters being left exposed to the outside. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. A couple questions please? Is there a structural concern with a spray foam? Some people told me that it can hinder the expansion and retraction of the wooden structure possibly damaging it. Second, do you recommend to put in an air chamber before spraying it?
Excellent price. You can hear the difference. No reverb of sound
That looks great. Are you going to install more old barn metal on the ceiling in there?
I was gonna ask the same. That stuff will get real dirty and dusty.
Great job Nathan, very well installed and cleaned up after and a reasonable price too. Now when you get everything put back together and get busy in there then you'll be happy too. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
I wish these guys worked in Wisconsin. Such a better job then the guys I had do mine.
Great video! Knew of the process but never saw it applied Thanks
You bet!
I always found this a fascinating technology. Better living through chemistry!
Several years ago I put fiberglass insulation in the ceiling and it didn't take long for a family of rats to make a home in it. I got rid of the rats after taking the insulation down and chasing the rats out from behind things with a leaf blower and letting my dog, a terrier mix, take care of them. His enthusiasm going after and killing rats was out the roof and when he was done the rats were too. Guess that's why some terriers got the nick name rat terriers. Anyway, it was very cool and interesting how the foam was done and expanded. The part where he sprayed just a little and pulled it off and stuck it in soffit was really cool. I wouldn't have guessed you could do that so soon without the foam sticking like super glue to your gloves and hands.
It’s a real skill and it looks great
This Spray Tech did a Absolutely Beautiful Job 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😍
I think so too!
That process was just crazy😛but watching it was amazing!!
Glad you liked it!!
Closed cell is more but provides an air barrier and moves the thermal barrier further towards the wall. Hope is not to humid but 6mil plastic moisture barrier can be stapled to ceiling be any dry wall. I use LED bulbs in my old fluorescent bulb fixtures, painted walls bright white. Huge difference and very easy to see with new lights. My garage is not as big by far as yours but saving money plus no more ballasts failing!
Nathan it sounds like you got a good deal. We just had our house done and it really makes a difference. Cool video. 👍❤️
Nathan it looks Great, I have heard people say that it is not good for you but not found any proof. Keep up the Great video's Please
Recently had my 18x40 shop sprayed. You got a heck of a good deal.
@N8 did I see a blade/edge sharpener on the floor?
5 inches of open cell foam has an R value of 19, whereas 3 inches of closed cell foam has an R value of 21. I had my steel barn sprayed with 3 inches of closed cell foam and installed a mini split HVAC unit and it stays 72° inside with the unit set at 73°.
Thanks for the video! Going to do this on my cabin, on bedrooms... very similar ceiling/roof situation! But I would love to see how they trimmed it off the rafters and evened out high spots (low spots, I suppose) in case you want to install a ceiling.
Great suggestion!
@@OutoftheWoods0623it was more of a question, not a suggestion
that' was a great price, I'm in northwest Indiana and i have a room 30 x 15 and was told it would cost $7000
On roofs should do thin layer of closed cell to seal it then open to increase r value and fill rest of rafter thickness
are you going to finish all the walls with wood?
Open cell foam allows moisture to escape while closed cell foam will cause condensation to accumulate on surfaces and mold will form if the room is too tightly sealed. My grandfather taught me about this in detail because quite frankly I don’t understand why the building codes are set up quite the way they are with vapor barriers(the initial conversation) because whether the vapor barrier is on the inside or the outside of the insulation doesn’t seem to make any functional difference to me, but I am not an expert. Closed cell foam acts as a vapor barrier as well as insulation, so you can’t use it on walls AND ceiling, but you could use it on the walls but use open cell on the ceiling to allow moisture to escape.
The easiest way to remember the difference between open cell foam and closed. Cell phone is to think of the big blocks of foam under a dock; those are made of closed cell foam so they will never get waterlogged. Closed cells are similar to a bunch of individual little balloons each trapping air. Open Cell foam is like a kitchen sponge.
It makes people think about insulation in the workshop or even the house
Noticed the canopy for you miter saw. Can you tell me where you got it from, thanks??
Very nice. Just wondered, if you were going to insulate the area behind the dust collector?
I worry that the foam will produce harmful vapors for a long time.
We have already experienced many building products with formaldehyde.
Look what happened with the FIMA trailers that were made for the Katrina victims.
I will stick to fiberglass insulation.
Unfortunately open-cell spray foam is a poor choice for roof decks. Opened cell is vapor permeable meaning moisture carried by air will infiltrate the foam and "ping pong" up to the highest point in the roof deck (usually the ridge). This roof may experience ridge rot within 3-5 years. A way to avoid this is to spray at least 2 inches of closed cell foam then spray open over it.
That will lower the temp of the closed cell creating a condensing surface. Instead, moisture will condense on the back of the closed cell & accumulate at the bottom of the roof.
Closed cell should be used full thickness or not at all.
@rangerdoc1029 what? Define full thickness. Are you familiar with temperature gradient? Ccsf doesn't know if it's "full thickness" or not. Very few things in nature are all or nothing. So if you 5mm shy of "full thickness" you've created a plane of condensation? The principle is to have enough ccsf to maintain a temp higher than the dew point on the interior surface of the foam layer. That amount is roughly 2" for most places in the lower 48. After 2" of ccsf you can put whatever you want over it (batt, cellulose, etc)
If the foam would have been closed cell, ya good idea. Open cell isn’t great as it isn’t as good a vapor barrier and it doesn’t do good with water. Problem with open cell and a ceiling is if it leaks your in big trouble. Closed cell actually seals the ceiling and will keep the water out or if it does come in, water has zero affect on closed cell. Problem with closed cell is it’s more expensive, you paid 1,800 for that, would have been probably closer to 3,000 for closed cell.
Closed cell should be on the celing
I would have installed 2" closed cell in the rafters came back over it with closed cell. You cant go by R value also i would have put 1x1 in each rafter to hold the foam board off the bottom of the roof deck and made sure air could flow behind it with soffit vents and rige vent ,
Then put on closed cell around the edges , this stuff has to be covered
If it catches on fire the fumez are deadly.
Oh I see your a festool man, best tools ever built in my opinion
You may have stopped reading these comments by now, but I'm going to give it a try anyway.... I'm an old guy (73), retired (12 years) former commercial designer/sales/builder/troubleshooter, built several of my own homes. I'm currently living in West Tennessee. Something no one has mentioned apparently is that leaving the foam open to the air may be a safety issue. I'm building my 'last' home (near Jackson, TN) and having foam professionally installed on two rooms that have vaulted ceilings. In checking local codes, I am required to have a 15 minute fire barrier enclosing the foam... now you are in a shop and probably not being inspected, but it might still be prudent, because a shop fire is certainly more possible with all that you have going on in there. ...also, I'd check to see if the foam will continue to release toxic gases... another thought would be to check to see if the foam particles continue to release or drift in the atmosphere over time.... just some thoughts, because I'll be buuilding another shop down the road, if I ever finish this frickn' house....(going on 6 years, but I've had no crew or heavy equipment...just me, myself and I) and life has a way of getting in the way... :>)
best regards, hope your shop is providing for you...
looks like they sprayed marshmallow on the ceiling!! that stuff is pretty cool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I thoroughly enjoy your channel and yes that is a great value
Awesome! Thank you!
Very cool! Thanks for sharing all of this with us. I need to put up some insulation myself and this is very helpful. :)
Thanks for saying how much I have wondered . 16:13
Well done Nathan it’s done now and you can reap the benefits of their knowledge and skills. By the way it reminded me of a Tsunami working it’s way across the ceiling! 🌊🌊🌊
Ur Tools an isolation are so different....but very interesting..
Hi Nathan! Are you going to line the ceilings?
So if your happy then Job Well Done.😎🤠😄👍
Nathan - Are you going to put something on the ceiling and walls to give your workshop a nice surface appearance (ship lap boards or roofing/metal sheeting)? A talented, hardworking guy like you deserves a good-looking place to work to showcase your handiwork.
The did a Excellent Job for you!!!
Using open-cell foam in place of closed-cell for insulation, especially in certain applications, can indeed be risky and often short-sighted, depending on the building type and climate. Here’s why it can be problematic:
Water Absorption: Open-cell foam can absorb moisture since the cells aren’t sealed. This can lead to mold growth and reduced insulation performance in humid or damp environments. In exterior walls or roofs, moisture buildup could be disastrous over time, potentially causing structural damage.
Insulation Efficiency: Closed-cell foam has a higher R-value per inch, so it provides better insulation in tight spaces. Using open-cell foam where insulation space is limited means you’re losing some of that insulating power. In colder or extreme climates, it may not perform well enough to maintain the interior temperature.
Structural Support: Closed-cell foam adds some structural rigidity, which can be a bonus in walls or other areas that benefit from extra strength. Open-cell foam is more flexible, so it doesn’t provide this added stability.
So unless the application specifically calls for the flexibility or soundproofing of open-cell foam, it usually isn’t the best choice for building insulation.
That price is a great value . Been wondering myself about cost .
I went through the "froth-pack" trials too! What a joke for me!
Ended up paying $700 for my 40x8 container ceiling and walls, closed cell! I'll never try it again.
Congratulations. Thanks for sharing. Very interesting!
Thanks for watching!
I bought a roll of heavy duty aluminum foil from Sams club and put in between the studs before the spray. It makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE.
Interesting
It will reduce your cell phone availability inside, but well worth it. Probably helps with other stuff I haven’t discovered yet.
Also, take the top if of aluminum cans, then stuff with cob mud and sand then stack them between the studs inside the walls. Thermal mass and reflective.
If you use these in videos, don’t forget my ten percent. I don’t know how to do videos, but I’ve got tons of things for some open source inventions for off grid life.
I had my house fomed boy did it make a difference.
Tip: Add a barrier and spacing between roof deck and spray foam.
So satisfying to watch
Nathan are you going to put wood cover up on the ceiling?
I think that DIY most likely costs more for large jobs as well. I have a metal building and will be going with closed cell. I will be having the ceiling done to keep from sweating. I am thinking about the walls as well but am giving it more thought because I still need to run electrical and may want to finish it off later. Much thought has to go into the job than just do it. I am happy that you like your job, but I think it's pretty ugly to look at even if it works. Thanks for sharing.
Did you notice a difference in the sound in those rooms?
That is an very reasonable price... Probably the average going rate is $3.00 - 3.50 for 5" Open Cell... Depending on the access...
Is that Very Flammable after it’s Dry?
😊nice nice that's a lot of r value 😊👍👍👍👍
Very!