Great job and a good effort. The fact that you took on this experiment and learned many things means a great deal. Hopefully you will try again. Remember that every experiment is successful in some way if you look at it in a positive way.
At 12:40 when the beard of bees were at the entrance, I wonder if that was the beginning of a swarm, waiting for the queen, or maybe even queen in that beard.?....very interesting video, nicely done too, great to learn from, my hat go's off to you for your efforts...thanks a lot for posting.
Thank you for interesting video of internal life of the hive and honey bees. Best wishes to the entomologists and beekeepers and bumble-bees and insect lovers!
thanks for the info we are new at bee keeping and i was going to try to do what you did but weren't sure it wood work . Thank you again from Roy and Pauline Adair
Very interesting indicates clearly that trap outs take some time and that bees are very determined to find unobstructed entrances back into the hive. Well done in getting the bees out I suspect the old hive entrance was blocked finally as the old hive would be attractive to swarms in the future.
I don't disagree that this was not the right decision. If I had to do it over, I would have done a forced abscond and completed it in one day. Having said that, we all learn by our mistakes. At NWNJBA we are not afraid to share them so others can benefit. I have a pretty thick skin and can take the criticism. Thanks for your feedback.
For +Galen Warren. The comment you shared is linked to us so we can't reply to it. Your notion is correct but we have more information considering the situation that would help explain the approach. This was in cooperation with the home owner and the tree in question is in a remote corner of their property and posed no threat to her by its existence. In fact they commented that it had been there for years and they just co-existed with it. They wanted to start using that part of the property but couldn't due to the threat so they called us to ask if we would take action to have the bees removed. They were going to take action this spring (2015) and said we were free to try the approach that was employed and do our best to save the bees if plausible. If it was more of an acute situation we would have employed a different approach. Hopefully that provides more insight.
I have just a quick suggestion to make, I did a trap out two years ago about the same way, and just the same, they all left with the Queen. The past year I did another one, and I was so determined to get the Queen I screwed a Queen excluder to the entrance, she came out after a month and a half and I had her trapped between the two blockers, within a week, she was laying eggs and I had to add another box for all the hatching brood that was coming out of the hive, the hive died this winter, but I got almost every bee out of that hive and it didn't take all that long. Just a tip for trapouts, Happy Beekeeping, Cole.
I trapped out a hive of bees from a brick house. The home owner did not want to damage the brick so I did what you did I attached a platform over the entrance with a screen cone going into a deep hive body. There were other entrances that the bees would use and it kept me having to calk them up. I using my bee vac to remove bees and take to another location daily until the population was down low. After a few weeks the rest of the bees were hatched out and no more bees were present. When no more bees were coming out I sealed everything up and left. I don't think the queen came out so I got a new queen for the bees I had removed and they are doing well today. ( Been a Year).
Seems like that could be an interesting way to potentially harvest honey off a hive in a tree, keep them using the nuc as honey storage and maybe point the entrance away from any place foragers could bother people, the bees could stick around, and Honey could be harvested as well.
I did something similar couple days ago the only difference I did I put the box on top of the hole and made the Entrance more difficult for them to go back to
I'm not a Bee Keeper but I was thinking if you put another queen in the trap (still in the container she comes in), would that not bring the queen out.
I completed a trap out in a tree next to a country club swimming pool. However, there are still a lot of bees in there behind the hardware cloth. The club manager wants all bees gone. How can I get the rest of the bees out of there? The screen is effective; none can return. I have a very heavy deep hive chock full of bees that I brought home last night, but the remaining bees have to be gotten out of there, and soon. I suppose I could spray them and kill them but I'd prefer that they just go on to a new life elsewhere. I am not sure if I have the queen in the hive. I will inspect tomorrow.
Ronald Gravois Ronald it is a good question. I can provide some ideas but don't know how they'll work in practice. The first is to open the entrance and heavily smoke them. Smoke them enough to drive them out. Another method is to use a product designed to displace bees in a honey box for extraction. The products you would use for a fume board - something like bee be gone. You can get those from a bee supplier. I suppose you could put a hose in there too like we did when we were kids. Some might drown but most would probably leave. Make sure you are suited up and no one is around as they will not be happy with this method. Just a couple of off the cuff answers and maybe some others who are smarter that me can chime in here with ideas. You might also pose this question to the beesource forum. Crowd sourcing an answer usually provides you with a lot of results and options.
nwnjba - Put another box there with at least one frame with some honey. Use bitter almond oil, bees hate it, be careful with it, it contains hydrogen cyanide, and most of it's uses are banned in the US. Google "bitter almond" and read a few articles about it before you use it. It only takes a couple of drops on a q-tip and shoved into the "tree hive" through the escape tube. After a few minutes the fumes fill the hollow and will cause the bees to evacuate, including the queen. I actually found this method in a very old bee book (late 1800s-early 1900s). It's worked for me numerous times.
#1. I knew you were going to lose that brood when you first said you were going to use that to "coax" the nurse bees and queen. I figured that it was just the thing to coax parasites, moths, etc. into the nuc box because although a few of the workers were inspecting the combs, they were'nt protecting the combs in any great numbers. I had an idea to try this several decades ago, and I have had a lot of time to think about what went wrong when I attempted it. Lack of experience being number one. I haven't handled bees for a long time, and though I have a little experience and knowledge I am online looking at these videos for a refresher course. 2. The materials. a) Use a wooden Brood Box... I had an incident with wildlife. Raccoons to be specific...LOL b) Use a Queen Excluder so that she can't abscond the entire hive. Another reason to use a Brood Box, too. c) Steel wool. Use this pretty much like you did with this attempt to seal any potential weak areas in the bark. d) Pruning Tar... It won't hurt the tree, It will eventually wear off, and it will help stick the steel wool to the tree. e) Screen wire. Use it to wrap the entire tree, which will prevent the steel wool from being easily removed from the nooks and crannies. f) PVC pipe, Coupler/reducer, cap, and a plastic turkey baster. You'll want two pieces of PVC Pipe. One long enough to go from the entrance into your brood box with a couple of inches to spare for the turkey baster. The hole in the turkey baster should be just big enough to allow the bees to exit. Trim off enough to accomplish this, and if the turkey baster is too long you can cut off the back side enough to make it fit. The coupler/reducer serves the purpose of reducing the size of the Pipe to fit the turkey baster. Step one... Don't seal the hive entrance until the entrance can be sealed shut with the PVC cap. Let the bees go about their business until you have sealed all the potential escape routes. Make sure that your PVC pipe goes deep into the tree. Use a keyhole saw to open up any tight areas. Fill all the nooks and crannies about a foot square around the entrance with Pruning tar, and steel wool. Then wrap the tree with the screen wire. Paint the screen wire with the pruning tar to seal any air from entering the hive. (They smell this air current, and will burrow to enlarge the entrance..) Once you have the area around the entrance prepared, slide the pipe into place, and use the pruning tar, and steel wool to seal the pipe into place... Wait until all of the bees have gone into the hive at night, and cap the pipe for a day or three. Next have your brood box, and a few frames ready, give them mostly empty combed frames to start, and just a couple with honey, Pollen, and Nectar in them. Remember, if they can't get back into the main hive they will need comb to put their harvest in, and the full combs might just entice the bees to start filling the empties with their harvest. Don't uncap the hive until you can slip the brood box into place. You want the bees to investigate the new entrance to the brood box, and you want to know for a fact that all of the escape routes are sealed. and Remember Solid Base, then Queen extractor, then all but one frame, and then your top pieces.. Next, Uncap the entrance pipe, and get your brood box in place, and closed as quickly as possible. Then give them about a week to run out of stores in the main tree, and move their queen. Once they move the queen, and enough time has gone by for all the brood to have hatched in the main hive you're done. Just move the newly captured hive, and cap the pipe so other bees can't move back in the old tree.
Wow, I do believe that will work. I’ve got a hive in a rather large oak tree that needs to be removed. Considering everything I have studied and read online I had decided that there wasn’t anything I could do to “rescue” these bees from human ignorance, until I read your post. I think I’ll chew on this info for a few days, then proceed. Thanks
Have you considered using a wood chisel on tree trap outs to chip away some of the bark in order to give yourself an even surface to seal the bees out.
Kevin Thomas We'll keep that in mind for next time. Presume it would be something that the homeowner would have to agree with and done in a way to keep from damaging the tree. It is as you suggest and idea to consider.
+nwnjba It isn't a good idea to use a wood chisel on the bark. Pruning tar, and steel wool are both somewhat biodegradable. I commented on things to use, and steps to take.
Personally I think it's a mistake to draw trap outs out so long. If you move a hive you don't give the hive a a week or two to re orient. If the entrance is sealed up properly and there has been flow then the bees will be fanning out the humidity and scent into the box so reorientation should take no time at all.I also notice in many many trap out video that folks do not take the time to seal up the entrance properly. With in no time they are having to plug holes. Why not take the time to do it right the first time? Bees during the summer will go through the stores rapidly. This could all be done in weeks rather than months. I really wish we had some swarms and trap outs around here to access. Also in the trap out box once they are getting short on resources I'd put some frames of stores along with brood. That would entice the workers out as stores in the hive run out.
It would have been nice to have a view of the tree to the home and home owner. So many people over react that "i'm allergic, I'm allergic" - they could get stung by something right up by their house totally unrelated to these bees. The tree these bees were in was huge. I bet they did not abscond - and also think that homeowner should have lived with them and been happy to do so...shame on them...
Each situation is different and in this case it was a prudent move. The tree was not far from the deck on the home and the homeowner had a family member with a severe reaction to a sting that resulted in an emergency situation prior. They really didn't want to take the action and were apologetic but the risk was preventing them from using their backyard safely.
Thank you very much for sharing this. It would be good to have been able to get a vacuum tube inside the hive in order to get as many of the bees as possible, or to make frequent vacuuming trips there to accumulate as many bees as possible in order to make the hive collapse and to try to start another hive with the vacuumed bees. What would also have been nice is to attempt to entice the queen out but to have an excluder that would not allow her back into the tree. Of course Hindsight is 20/20 ;=)
Well done.... but if you use some lemon grass esential oil, just few drops on every frame and comb and every one wiil be in the box including the queen.no more then 3 days
You learn a lot with this video, but I would of just secure the nuck to the tree with the trap off cone, then drill a hole through the back of the tree and smoke them out, you would of caught every bee including the queen. Try it next time.😊
Anyone else notice the poop around the entrance of box and all over box near the end? Given there were a lot of wax moths too maybe this colony was ill?
I think I would have drilled a hole into the top and bottom of the hive in the tree. Them smoked them have from the bottom and top. I'd bet the whole colony would be out in a few hrs.
Great video! What part of the country are you in? My initials are G.J.S. and I use to keep bee's and was just wondering about the frames, where they might have came from! Just wondering...
If you open the hole again, won't that encourage another colony to move in and you'll have the same problem next year? I enjoyed the video. Your were certainly patient.
next time try a cone out trap and leave a brood box outside the hive, if you can stop them getting back in the will rehome and the queen will follow or die, with the bees using the new box after a week you could have closed the hole in the tree, and taken the bees away, i have done this method countless times and seems to be the best way if you cant cut the tree open, forcing them out with heaps of smoke just drive them out and keep the owner away
Had to come watch this one after the vid on the balled up rejected bee. Had tp see what the accepted queen looked like this is pretty cool but honestly had my fists clenched i was so scared.
If the goal was to eliminate bees from the allergic lady's place.....when you get as many as you can out, why not fill the cavity in the tree with that expanding foam that is used when installing windows? That way the cavity will no longer be there for the next set of bees looking for a home....
So at 17 min. in i have come to this conclusion. Why try to remove bees from a tree when in the long run all you do if you are successful is to make the open brood in the tree queenless. After all, a queenless hive will just remake a queen . Then in a few weeks you are right back where you started. Unless you plan on sealing the tree up and killing that possibility. Which means you could have done that in the 1st place.If this is truly about removing the hive and saving bees, I think you would have to cut open the tree. If this is about an allergy danger, then the owner needs an epipen with them at all times no matter where they go. You already said this hive is in a remote area , so why the fuss ? Now I am at the end of the video. I hear they starved out, and maybe absconded, maybe....... I tried a trap out once, learned from it and won't do it again. Hope you don't either.All I see are free bees for the beekeeper.
It looks like Mr nwnjba has little experience in trapping feral bees: He had the right method but from what I have seen in TH-cam trapping feral bee with a wire mesh cone is quite common and it is done in matters of a day or hours. The cone is just put on the tree and the bee box next to it and not cone inside inside the bee box. Anyway live and learn.
I really like the series of videos you've put up....except this one. An owner is allergic, and you took how many weeks? For your own agenda, you kept this woman exposed. I can't imagine someone being that patient.
Wasted way too much time on this trap out. You needed to put the bee escape on immediately, but on the outside of the nuc box. The nuc box should have had a frame or two of partial brood with nursery bees to care for them plus two frames with partial honey and pollen with the entrance facing the tree. The bees coming out could not go back in and would be attracted to the brood come with nursery bees. This could have been done easily in less than 30 days!
First of all, throw that cardboard nuc away! The only thing they are useful for is to sell someone a swarm of bees on the cheap, just to get the bees home. If I were a bee, I wouldn't want to move into that box either!
why did you disable comments on your most revent video?.... i disliked it simply for that fact... anyway, referring to your VACUUM video, obviously, the vacuum needs to be stronger. ... just a suggestion.
That was a really crap decision you made. Your first part of the video was correct when you said yourself, you should not be doing it at that time of year. Tell the owner to wait until spring and do it then. The way you undertook this you may as well have just poisoned it and walked away. You achieved the same result in the end. You should make the title a what not to do video. Hopefully others do not make the same mistake you made.
Ideas Must Be Followed by Experiences of Others when it comes to ANYTHING that Has LIFE in it , U just did this TOO LONG and at this Case THEY WERE BOTHERED More Than HELPED So they LEFT from Passing the Feeling Around Themselves that ITS HARD to Do OUR JOB here and WE MUST MOVE Else where. U Hurt the Nature this Time to Help a MAN !
Very interesting idea to collect a wild hive. You will sure learn a lot. Good luck, i did enjoy your video.
Great job and a good effort. The fact that you took on this experiment and learned many things means a great deal. Hopefully you will try again. Remember that every experiment is successful in some way if you look at it in a positive way.
At 12:40 when the beard of bees were at the entrance, I wonder if that was the beginning of a swarm, waiting for the queen, or maybe even queen in that beard.?....very interesting video, nicely done too, great to learn from, my hat go's off to you for your efforts...thanks a lot for posting.
Thank you for nice video! Best greetings from Entomologist and Beekeeper in Ukraine! Looking forward for your new videos!
Thank you for interesting video of internal life of the hive and honey bees. Best wishes to the entomologists and beekeepers and bumble-bees and insect lovers!
Quick tip, next time put a peace of queen excluder on the entrance.
My thoughts exactly,still it was a well filmed video.i have never done one,so I learned something.
thanks for the info we are new at bee keeping and i was going to try to do what you did but weren't sure it wood work . Thank you again from Roy and Pauline Adair
Very interesting indicates clearly that trap outs take some time and that bees are very determined to find unobstructed entrances back into the hive. Well done in getting the bees out I suspect the old hive entrance was blocked finally as the old hive would be attractive to swarms in the future.
Thank you for showing how to save the bees instead of killing them. I have the same issue on my property with the same type of tree, aka white ash.
thanks for the video. Im going to be trying my first trap out this year on a gas tank.
I don't disagree that this was not the right decision. If I had to do it over, I would have done a forced abscond and completed it in one day. Having said that, we all learn by our mistakes. At NWNJBA we are not afraid to share them so others can benefit. I have a pretty thick skin and can take the criticism. Thanks for your feedback.
For +Galen Warren. The comment you shared is linked to us so we can't reply to it. Your notion is correct but we have more information considering the situation that would help explain the approach. This was in cooperation with the home owner and the tree in question is in a remote corner of their property and posed no threat to her by its existence. In fact they commented that it had been there for years and they just co-existed with it. They wanted to start using that part of the property but couldn't due to the threat so they called us to ask if we would take action to have the bees removed. They were going to take action this spring (2015) and said we were free to try the approach that was employed and do our best to save the bees if plausible. If it was more of an acute situation we would have employed a different approach. Hopefully that provides more insight.
I have just a quick suggestion to make, I did a trap out two years ago about the same way, and just the same, they all left with the Queen. The past year I did another one, and I was so determined to get the Queen I screwed a Queen excluder to the entrance, she came out after a month and a half and I had her trapped between the two blockers, within a week, she was laying eggs and I had to add another box for all the hatching brood that was coming out of the hive, the hive died this winter, but I got almost every bee out of that hive and it didn't take all that long. Just a tip for trapouts, Happy Beekeeping, Cole.
Good tip, glad you mentioned it. I never would have thought of that. Thanks again
i wonder if you can drill another hole into the hive cavity and inject some bee begone and push the bees out into the trap with that.
I trapped out a hive of bees from a brick house. The home owner did not want to damage the brick so I did what you did I attached a platform over the entrance with a screen cone going into a deep hive body. There were other entrances that the bees would use and it kept me having to calk them up. I using my bee vac to remove bees and take to another location daily until the population was down low. After a few weeks the rest of the bees were hatched out and no more bees were present. When no more bees were coming out I sealed everything up and left. I don't think the queen came out so I got a new queen for the bees I had removed and they are doing well today. ( Been a Year).
One of the most interesting videos I’ve ever seen.
I suppose if the weather holds/the box has adequate cover there's no harm in using a cardboard nuc. Would make me nervous every time it rained though!
im guessing the box you gave them was not insulated enough
Seems like that could be an interesting way to potentially harvest honey off a hive in a tree, keep them using the nuc as honey storage and maybe point the entrance away from any place foragers could bother people, the bees could stick around, and Honey could be harvested as well.
What got you into beekeeping? I got my first hives for my garden and it went from there. Now I am
doing swarm removals and cut outs
Best trap out I’ve seen so far.
Azure B Apiaries?
Would lemon grass oil in the box entice the queen to come out, thinking that it was another queen?
You make a cone, put it on the hole, block the other entrances, set up your box, done in about four weeks. This was ridiculous!
Not the worst I've seen but certainly a big over production for sure,clearly a hobbyist with lots of time...
We do around 30 t/o a season on avg
Nice effort. Good camera work. Sorry you couldn't get the queen
I did something similar couple days ago the only difference I did I put the box on top of the hole and made the Entrance more difficult for them to go back to
It's so sad at the end but thanks for sharing:)
How calm are they doing this
What's to prevent a next spring swarm from moving right back into the tree?
+Jim Kovac Cap the pvc pipe... :P
Thanks for the video. I learned a great deal. :( sorry about losing the queen. I will pray she survives.
I'm not a Bee Keeper but I was thinking if you put another queen in the trap (still in the container she comes in), would that not bring the queen out.
At the 30:00 The way the bees were acting seemed like the Queen was near them or in that area.
I have yet to see a queen excluder on a recovery box. That's pretty simple don't you think?
I completed a trap out in a tree next to a country club swimming pool. However, there are still a lot of bees in there behind the hardware cloth. The club manager wants all bees gone. How can I get the rest of the bees out of there? The screen is effective; none can return. I have a very heavy deep hive chock full of bees that I brought home last night, but the remaining bees have to be gotten out of there, and soon. I suppose I could spray them and kill them but I'd prefer that they just go on to a new life elsewhere. I am not sure if I have the queen in the hive. I will inspect tomorrow.
Ronald Gravois Ronald it is a good question. I can provide some ideas but don't know how they'll work in practice. The first is to open the entrance and heavily smoke them. Smoke them enough to drive them out. Another method is to use a product designed to displace bees in a honey box for extraction. The products you would use for a fume board - something like bee be gone. You can get those from a bee supplier. I suppose you could put a hose in there too like we did when we were kids. Some might drown but most would probably leave. Make sure you are suited up and no one is around as they will not be happy with this method. Just a couple of off the cuff answers and maybe some others who are smarter that me can chime in here with ideas. You might also pose this question to the beesource forum. Crowd sourcing an answer usually provides you with a lot of results and options.
nwnjba - Put another box there with at least one frame with some honey. Use bitter almond oil, bees hate it, be careful with it, it contains hydrogen cyanide, and most of it's uses are banned in the US. Google "bitter almond" and read a few articles about it before you use it. It only takes a couple of drops on a q-tip and shoved into the "tree hive" through the escape tube. After a few minutes the fumes fill the hollow and will cause the bees to evacuate, including the queen. I actually found this method in a very old bee book (late 1800s-early 1900s). It's worked for me numerous times.
You know Louisville Slugger would love to have that tree. Good video!
#1. I knew you were going to lose that brood when you first said you were going to use that to "coax" the nurse bees and queen.
I figured that it was just the thing to coax parasites, moths, etc. into the nuc box because although a few of the workers were inspecting the combs, they were'nt protecting the combs in any great numbers.
I had an idea to try this several decades ago, and I have had a lot of time to think about what went wrong when I attempted it. Lack of experience being number one. I haven't handled bees for a long time, and though I have a little experience and knowledge I am online looking at these videos for a refresher course.
2. The materials.
a) Use a wooden Brood Box... I had an incident with wildlife. Raccoons to be specific...LOL
b) Use a Queen Excluder so that she can't abscond the entire hive. Another reason to use a Brood Box, too.
c) Steel wool. Use this pretty much like you did with this attempt to seal any potential weak areas in the bark.
d) Pruning Tar... It won't hurt the tree, It will eventually wear off, and it will help stick the steel wool to the tree.
e) Screen wire. Use it to wrap the entire tree, which will prevent the steel wool from being easily removed from the nooks and crannies.
f) PVC pipe, Coupler/reducer, cap, and a plastic turkey baster. You'll want two pieces of PVC Pipe. One long enough to go from the entrance into your brood box with a couple of inches to spare for the turkey baster. The hole in the turkey baster should be just big enough to allow the bees to exit. Trim off enough to accomplish this, and if the turkey baster is too long you can cut off the back side enough to make it fit. The coupler/reducer serves the purpose of reducing the size of the Pipe to fit the turkey baster.
Step one... Don't seal the hive entrance until the entrance can be sealed shut with the PVC cap. Let the bees go about their business until you have sealed all the potential escape routes.
Make sure that your PVC pipe goes deep into the tree. Use a keyhole saw to open up any tight areas. Fill all the nooks and crannies about a foot square around the entrance with Pruning tar, and steel wool. Then wrap the tree with the screen wire. Paint the screen wire with the pruning tar to seal any air from entering the hive. (They smell this air current, and will burrow to enlarge the entrance..) Once you have the area around the entrance prepared, slide the pipe into place, and use the pruning tar, and steel wool to seal the pipe into place... Wait until all of the bees have gone into the hive at night, and cap the pipe for a day or three.
Next have your brood box, and a few frames ready, give them mostly empty combed frames to start, and just a couple with honey, Pollen, and Nectar in them. Remember, if they can't get back into the main hive they will need comb to put their harvest in, and the full combs might just entice the bees to start filling the empties with their harvest.
Don't uncap the hive until you can slip the brood box into place. You want the bees to investigate the new entrance to the brood box, and you want to know for a fact that all of the escape routes are sealed. and Remember Solid Base, then Queen extractor, then all but one frame, and then your top pieces..
Next, Uncap the entrance pipe, and get your brood box in place, and closed as quickly as possible.
Then give them about a week to run out of stores in the main tree, and move their queen. Once they move the queen, and enough time has gone by for all the brood to have hatched in the main hive you're done. Just move the newly captured hive, and cap the pipe so other bees can't move back in the old tree.
Wow, I do believe that will work.
I’ve got a hive in a rather large oak tree that needs to be removed. Considering everything I have studied and read online I had decided that there wasn’t anything I could do to “rescue” these bees from human ignorance, until I read your post.
I think I’ll chew on this info for a few days, then proceed.
Thanks
Have you considered using a wood chisel on tree trap outs to chip away some of the bark in order to give yourself an even surface to seal the bees out.
Kevin Thomas We'll keep that in mind for next time. Presume it would be something that the homeowner would have to agree with and done in a way to keep from damaging the tree. It is as you suggest and idea to consider.
+nwnjba It isn't a good idea to use a wood chisel on the bark. Pruning tar, and steel wool are both somewhat biodegradable. I commented on things to use, and steps to take.
Personally I think it's a mistake to draw trap outs out so long. If you move a hive you don't give the hive a a week or two to re orient. If the entrance is sealed up properly and there has been flow then the bees will be fanning out the humidity and scent into the box so reorientation should take no time at all.I also notice in many many trap out video that folks do not take the time to seal up the entrance properly. With in no time they are having to plug holes. Why not take the time to do it right the first time? Bees during the summer will go through the stores rapidly. This could all be done in weeks rather than months. I really wish we had some swarms and trap outs around here to access. Also in the trap out box once they are getting short on resources I'd put some frames of stores along with brood. That would entice the workers out as stores in the hive run out.
How not to do a trapout?
It would have been nice to have a view of the tree to the home and home owner. So many people over react that "i'm allergic, I'm allergic" - they could get stung by something right up by their house totally unrelated to these bees. The tree these bees were in was huge. I bet they did not abscond - and also think that homeowner should have lived with them and been happy to do so...shame on them...
Each situation is different and in this case it was a prudent move. The tree was not far from the deck on the home and the homeowner had a family member with a severe reaction to a sting that resulted in an emergency situation prior. They really didn't want to take the action and were apologetic but the risk was preventing them from using their backyard safely.
100%
I have never seen this before, very interesting, its like a bee soap opera. Shame thecqueen was able to escape though.
Maybe tape up the entrance and install one of those round disk entries/queen excluder.Now you have the queen trapped in the trap.
This is great educational video. I almost got a trapout job as a beekeeper.
The sad thing is you can't trapout Yellowjackets!
Seems to me all you did was kill the hive. Good job the home owner is safe.
I wonder what would have happen if you put a second caged queen in the box.
Why not using the bee-exluder and nuc from the start? This would had cut down on time and the bees would had found their way into the box any way,
Thank you very much for sharing this.
It would be good to have been able to get a vacuum tube inside the hive in order to get as many of the bees as possible, or to make frequent vacuuming trips there to accumulate as many bees as possible in order to make the hive collapse and to try to start another hive with the vacuumed bees. What would also have been nice is to attempt to entice the queen out but to have an excluder that would not allow her back into the tree.
Of course Hindsight is 20/20 ;=)
Well done.... but if you use some lemon grass esential oil, just few drops on every frame and comb and every one wiil be in the box including the queen.no more then 3 days
Stingless bee?
You learn a lot with this video, but I would of just secure the nuck to the tree with the trap off cone, then drill a hole through the back of the tree and smoke them out, you would of caught every bee including the queen. Try it next time.😊
Anyone else notice the poop around the entrance of box and all over box near the end? Given there were a lot of wax moths too maybe this colony was ill?
I think I would have drilled a hole into the top and bottom of the hive in the tree. Them smoked them have from the bottom and top. I'd bet the whole colony would be out in a few hrs.
Nice kiping
Great video! What part of the country are you in? My initials are G.J.S. and I use to keep bee's and was just wondering about the frames, where they might have came from!
Just wondering...
If you open the hole again, won't that encourage another colony to move in and you'll have the same problem next year?
I enjoyed the video. Your were certainly patient.
crushed comb helps the alergic
next time try a cone out trap and leave a brood box outside the hive, if you can stop them getting back in the will rehome and the queen will follow or die, with the bees using the new box after a week you could have closed the hole in the tree, and taken the bees away, i have done this method countless times and seems to be the best way if you cant cut the tree open, forcing them out with heaps of smoke just drive them out and keep the owner away
Had to come watch this one after the vid on the balled up rejected bee. Had tp see what the accepted queen looked like this is pretty cool but honestly had my fists clenched i was so scared.
Amazing, thank you, God bless
Should have had a screen trap on the pipe.
Some kind of disease? Have you not heard of the Emerald Ash Borer? All of our Ash trees are dying!
Very interesting video.Thanks.
Shame it had a sad ending!
Thanks for idea thanks for sharing this information success for u
If the goal was to eliminate bees from the allergic lady's place.....when you get as many as you can out, why not fill the cavity in the tree with that expanding foam that is used when installing windows? That way the cavity will no longer be there for the next set of bees looking for a home....
Hi Kathy. Once the procedure was over he did close the cavity and no bees can return.
Thank you very good
So at 17 min. in i have come to this conclusion. Why try to remove bees from a tree when in the long run all you do if you are successful is to make the open brood in the tree queenless. After all, a queenless hive will just remake a queen . Then in a few weeks you are right back where you started. Unless you plan on sealing the tree up and killing that possibility. Which means you could have done that in the 1st place.If this is truly about removing the hive and saving bees, I think you would have to cut open the tree. If this is about an allergy danger, then the owner needs an epipen with them at all times no matter where they go. You already said this hive is in a remote area , so why the fuss ? Now I am at the end of the video. I hear they starved out, and maybe absconded, maybe....... I tried a trap out once, learned from it and won't do it again. Hope you don't either.All I see are free bees for the beekeeper.
Could have done all that long weeks and steps in the 1st week and would have better results
It looks like Mr nwnjba has little experience in trapping feral bees: He had the right method but from what I have seen in TH-cam trapping feral bee with a wire mesh cone is quite common and it is done in matters of a day or hours. The cone is just put on the tree and the bee box next to it and not cone inside inside the bee box.
Anyway live and learn.
In that I learned a lot , perhaps shorten the whole time, do more sooner.
Good sir 🙏
sorry about losing the queen.. but it was fun watching..lol
Sorrry lm late...
Everything was done wrong, so wrong.... it’s a pity.
At least you forced them to leave.
nice job
You may have been better cutting a hole in the tree get them out with the Hoover At the beginning
I really like the series of videos you've put up....except this one. An owner is allergic, and you took how many weeks? For your own agenda, you kept this woman exposed. I can't imagine someone being that patient.
Wasted way too much time on this trap out. You needed to put the bee escape on immediately, but on the outside of the nuc box. The nuc box should have had a frame or two of partial brood with nursery bees to care for them plus two frames with partial honey and pollen with the entrance facing the tree. The bees coming out could not go back in and would be attracted to the brood come with nursery bees. This could have been done easily in less than 30 days!
Ya killed a colony, awesome job mate!!
lightning strike. Burns the inside of the tree
way to small of a box for all those bees to want to stay in!!!
First of all, throw that cardboard nuc away! The only thing they are useful for is to sell someone a swarm of bees on the cheap, just to get the bees home. If I were a bee, I wouldn't want to move into that box either!
Oh my
🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️top 👍👏👏🇧🇷
great, great video. thanks for sharing!
very cool
لو وضعت نفش شكل المدخل الذي وضعته على الشجرة على الكرتون لكانت المهمة اسهل في خداع النحل واختصرت المدة
Amazing
why did you disable comments on your most revent video?.... i disliked it simply for that fact... anyway, referring to your VACUUM video, obviously, the vacuum needs to be stronger. ... just a suggestion.
Holy crap man , Wow what an Epic waste of time. OMG
good lesson for us thanx
That was a really crap decision you made. Your first part of the video was correct when you said yourself, you should not be doing it at that time of year. Tell the owner to wait until spring and do it then. The way you undertook this you may as well have just poisoned it and walked away. You achieved the same result in the end. You should make the title a what not to do video. Hopefully others do not make the same mistake you made.
This method is not easy for making colony
Ideas Must Be Followed by Experiences of Others when it comes to ANYTHING that Has LIFE in it , U just did this TOO LONG and at this Case THEY WERE BOTHERED More Than HELPED So they LEFT from Passing the Feeling Around Themselves that ITS HARD to Do OUR JOB here and WE MUST MOVE Else where. U Hurt the Nature this Time to Help a MAN !
pitiful.
days of work that could have been done with a fire cracker .what a waste
Very cruel method.I don't like this.
Hmm 🤔 If the goal was to get rid of the bees why didn't you smoke them out? You lying,you failed and you making excuses. Silence! lmfao