I saw the Sunday coffee video, I enjoy it,when you post them! I don't think people realize, just how brilliant you are. Keep moving forward bro, wishing you all the success 🙏. Thanks for the instrumental I put it in my music play list. 🤙🏽
Guys, I might be ignorant, but how you determine "high grade" rosin? I am not talking about some utter aliexpress anomalies but a good mid range rosin is not expensive and does the job. So why bother with WW grade? Please explain
As far as I can tell, rosin grades are based solely on appearance. WW grade is yellow, as in the video. Exactly what this implies in terms of constituents isn't clear. I did find one document that confirmed my suspicion that "WW" stands for "water white" though WW rosin certainly isn't. I've encountered the WW designation before but I can recall to what it referred. I can't find anything that defines any actual standards for composition. It is a natural product, made from the sap of pine trees, so I suspect it is fairly variable (it's what is left after turpentine is evaporated off). Plain rosin isn't a very good flux. Rosin actually intended for use as soldering flux has additives to make it more effective. The two common types are "RA" for "rosin, activated" and "RMA" for "rosin, mildly activated." Both of those types are used for the core or solders for electronics use. RA used to be by far the most common. RMA seems to have become more common with the transition from soldering wires to terminal strips and tube sockets to soldering parts on PCBs. Now there are many "no-clean" fluxes that use a synthetic base rather than natural rosin.
@@d614gakadoug9 There is a variety of natural rosin that I have been using. All give nice pine smell and solder nicely. I buy the solid one and dilute with IPA. Before Sorin brought that topic up I have never even thought there were different grades (apart from total bs and workable rosin) Does the grade really matter to produce a "wow effect"?
@@mime4331 I doubt if the grade makes a whole lot of difference as long as it isn't really poor. I can't speak from experience because on the rare occasions I've used a rosin-based paste flux or liquid flux it has been formulated specifically for electronics use. I've never used pure rosin as a soldering flux. My personal preference for flux is a water soluble type, but it is completely unsuitable for lots of things. It absolutely must be fully washed off within a few hours because it is both conductive and corrosive. You would never use it for stranded wire because it would wick up among the strands and you'd never get the residue out. You would never use it for repair work. It is a very active flux and will work on things that are hard to solder even with fully activated rosin flux. Provided you do wash it off promptly with a strong spray of warm water, followed by proper rinsing with deionized water, it is easy to remove. Its smell is most certainly NOT pleasant!
It's about the purity and the color of the rosin. It has no additional properties concerning the soldering process. You can grab dirty old dark rosin from a pine tree and will still do the job. Of course you can filter it by heating it to 150-170°C and run it through a metal screen. Adding some alcohol like iso, 1% by weight glycerine and a drop (1/20ml) of dish soap for every 100ml of end product. Anything from 10 to 70% rosin containt by weight is good, depending how runny you want it. If you want it a bit more active, you can add 0,5 to 2,5% acid (1% is typically enough). It can be adipic, abietic, lactic, malic, succinic, even tartaric or citric. Don't go with Succinic though, you will have hard time dissolving it. This will beat any time 99% of the commercial fluxes, including top tier, gold label, blue checkmark ww rosin from a famous pine tree with a pedigree. 😁
Great, been having issues with amtech flux in certain situations as it just runs away from the heat and I'm always needing loads of it. Looking up some good rosin was hard to find and amazingly you're selling your own now. Good stuff! Was literally cehcking ebay yesterday to see if you sell it. Glad to see it's here!
I have seen rumors that the majority of what is sold on the web as Amtech flux is counterfeit. Pure natural rosin is a pretty poor flux which is why it isn't used professionally. Rosin with added "activators" is a good flux.
That is so Sorin. There is a pad labelled NC so he solders to it. On the other hand, that's a pretty goddamn good quality advertising video, the mofo knows something.
hey hello sir, i hope you're doing well i have lenovo ideapad slim 1 and my laptop having a usb port problem so can you make a video on it because i put usb cable with wrong positive negative side and my usb port is not working now
From some reason the international postage don't work, is suppose to work with their global shipping program, i call ebay later and find out why is not working
@@electronicsrepairschool Hopefully there will be no verbal redirections in videos, to shop because it will become annoying. Thats the reason why I unsub from NorthRidgeFix, it happens that he make video replacing connector, teaching nothing and promoting shop. Honest and fair job, but its not interesting nor educating.
I wonder, because i had an cheap soldering iron which didn't needed any Rosin or Flux. Than i bought expensive one and now i need this stuff. I wonder whats the difference.
The iron should make no difference. Are you still using the same solder? With good quality rosin-cored solder you should rarely require additional flux. There are many solders around now with "no clean" flux. It is much less active than activated rosin flux and requires that everything be bright, clean and easy to solder.
@@geekonarium It is certainly more difficult to make nice looking joints with lead-free solder. The joints function just fine but don't look as smooth an shiny as those made with lead in the alloy. Somewhat higher temperature is need for lead-free solder than 63%-37% tin-lead solder. In the early days of lead-free solder there were serious problems with growth of "tin whiskers." Over time long fine "crystals" of tin would form and cause short circuits. The alloys used now are far less likely to do that. Solder has become unbelievably expensive in recent years.
Hope we can order this to sweden soon. Will eBay take care of import stuff and sales tax when importing to a EU country? Otherwise the swedish post offfice will charge 7 euros extra for doing that "service". Outrageous!
What kind of Kester? Kester makes a whole range of fluxes. Rosin types will last for many, many years. I used to use a Kester water-xoluble flux sometimes. It is a much more active flux than even fully-activated rosin, but it is conductive and corrosive and must be fully washed off within a few hours. It smells kind of revolting. Plain rosin as a flux just isn't very good which is why nobody uses it professionally in electronics.
I thought nobody noticed. I was right. :) I stopped watching him, all he does is advertise his services and merch, doesn't really teach anything. Not very good at electronics either, he only does the quick jobs for easy money. He is good with his hands, but when there is a difficult job requiring brain power, he fails and just randomly swaps chips.
Just dished out 20 bucks for chipquik flux. I'm in Oz and only tried the AliExpress rosins that come in small box. Poor quality. Anywhere locally I can get proper rosin in Melbourne. Oz.
Pure natural rosin is a poor flux. Rosin-based fluxes made for electronics work contain "activators" which greatly improve the anti-oxidation properties and even make the flux capable of "removing" existing minor surface oxidation. There are two general categories "RMA" for Rosin, Mildly Activated and "RA" for Rosin, Activated. Unsurprisingly, the latter is more aggressive. It is generally safe to leave the residues on a circuit board even with RA, but if you are dealing with very high impedance circuitry or the circuit will be subjected to adverse environmental conditions it is best to remove it. Rosin-based fluxes are easy to remove with mild organic solvents such as isopropyl alcohol (aka isopropanol, 2-propanol). There are a lot of "no-clean" fluxes in use these days. They are sort of comparable to RA in terms of activity. Any I've ever used are exceedingly difficult to remove. Common organic solvents work very poorly. The "best" way is apparently to use an aqueous process with a saponifier and a strong spray. Don't bother looking for pure rosin. It simply isn't worth the effort. The Chipquick flux you are using is probably a much better flux. Of course Chipquick has a variety of products so I can't be sure what you are using. It seems that an awful lot of hobbyists these days want to slop extra flux all over everything. Sometimes a tiny bit of extra flux is a big help. Tinning stranded wire is one place where it is. If you have good technique and use good quality flux-cored solder you rarely need extra flux.
@@MattyEngland I guess, if you don't mind your work looking like it was done by an rank amateur hack who hasn't really learned to solder. Decades ago the PCBs in lots of consumer electronics had huge amounts of residual flux from wave soldering.
When engineer demonstrate it really works. Hopefully there will be no verbal redirections in videos, to shop because it will become annoying. Thats the reason why I unsub from NorthRidgeFix, it happens that he make video replacing connector, teaching nothing and promoting shop. Honest and fair job, but its not interesting nor educating.
Sorin is entitled to promote his product, just like Northridgefix. You are a sponge, take but don't give back. I highly doubt Northridgefix gives a monkeys if you unsubbed, you just take without giving back. Same for Sorin, he couldn't care less if you unsub because you don't like him promoting his own product after all the value he gives people, you will not be missed be assured of that.
@@marksutherland774 You know I am sponge just by one YT comment? Try to think twice before you write something. If you have with what to think. You have all the right in this world to say what you want, but it will not necessarily be true. People dont like forced ads. Its my advice is not do it. He is free to do whatever he wants with his channel and life. Like you are. Like I am. Another thing is, both Sorin and NorthRidgeFix will not care if I unsub, correct. But when people start unsubing, the same amount as subbing, they stay at constant number of subs. Its not good for them, they dont earn more money.
Just use zinc chloride and clean it with isopropyl alcohol.. Very easy to clean and you can use just a little amount on the pad or wire you want to solder.
Zinc chloride will corrode the living hell out of the PCB and wires. Better use stuff for its intended purpose, like soldering pipes and galvanized sheet metal.
*_NO!_* Zinc chloride is a very very bad choice for electronic work. It can result in an endless cycle of corrosion if it isn't completely removed. It is impossible to completely remove it from things like stranded wire. Use fluxes made of electronics work, such as mildly-activate rosin (RMA) or activated rosin (RA).
Anyone noticed? Rosin is anagram of Sorin. It completes him.😉
Freakin' IllumiNazi 💩
😁👍
There are no coincidences 😂
and what about a proper calibrate fuse 😂
are you saying that Sorin is part of a global conspiracy to reduce the need for the Big Land-fill industry?
@@mxsniper223 I found it, "proper calibrated fuse" = "Terrible Cap Drop A Fuse"
Proper Calibrated Rosin !!!
Sorin, I wish you all the best in your new business, as you're teaching us so much. Thank you very much! 🙂
One of the very few demonstrations "as seen on video" which I actually trust to be 100% genuine and working as shown.
Yes indeed i bought some after you spoke so highly about it and now i am hooked and cant stop using it lol ;)
SORIN - ROSIN . Pretty matchable words
That is one of the best advertisements i have seen in a while ... you demonstrated how good the product is by actually using it in the ad
Sorin, You have a career in advertising. Nice quality ad, well done.
Now that's some sexy rosin footage!
Wonderful work Sorin
It`s working.....I can`t believe !
Just placed an order, looks great
I saw the Sunday coffee video, I enjoy it,when you post them! I don't think people realize, just how brilliant you are. Keep moving forward bro, wishing you all the success 🙏. Thanks for the instrumental I put it in my music play list. 🤙🏽
Finally I cant believe I have purchased two lol
What should one use to clean the board when finished with this rosin? Thx.
Guys, I might be ignorant, but how you determine "high grade" rosin?
I am not talking about some utter aliexpress anomalies but a good mid range rosin is not expensive and does the job. So why bother with WW grade? Please explain
As far as I can tell, rosin grades are based solely on appearance. WW grade is yellow, as in the video. Exactly what this implies in terms of constituents isn't clear. I did find one document that confirmed my suspicion that "WW" stands for "water white" though WW rosin certainly isn't. I've encountered the WW designation before but I can recall to what it referred. I can't find anything that defines any actual standards for composition. It is a natural product, made from the sap of pine trees, so I suspect it is fairly variable (it's what is left after turpentine is evaporated off).
Plain rosin isn't a very good flux. Rosin actually intended for use as soldering flux has additives to make it more effective. The two common types are "RA" for "rosin, activated" and "RMA" for "rosin, mildly activated." Both of those types are used for the core or solders for electronics use. RA used to be by far the most common. RMA seems to have become more common with the transition from soldering wires to terminal strips and tube sockets to soldering parts on PCBs. Now there are many "no-clean" fluxes that use a synthetic base rather than natural rosin.
@@d614gakadoug9 There is a variety of natural rosin that I have been using. All give nice pine smell and solder nicely. I buy the solid one and dilute with IPA. Before Sorin brought that topic up I have never even thought there were different grades (apart from total bs and workable rosin)
Does the grade really matter to produce a "wow effect"?
@@mime4331
I doubt if the grade makes a whole lot of difference as long as it isn't really poor. I can't speak from experience because on the rare occasions I've used a rosin-based paste flux or liquid flux it has been formulated specifically for electronics use. I've never used pure rosin as a soldering flux.
My personal preference for flux is a water soluble type, but it is completely unsuitable for lots of things. It absolutely must be fully washed off within a few hours because it is both conductive and corrosive. You would never use it for stranded wire because it would wick up among the strands and you'd never get the residue out. You would never use it for repair work. It is a very active flux and will work on things that are hard to solder even with fully activated rosin flux. Provided you do wash it off promptly with a strong spray of warm water, followed by proper rinsing with deionized water, it is easy to remove. Its smell is most certainly NOT pleasant!
It's about the purity and the color of the rosin. It has no additional properties concerning the soldering process. You can grab dirty old dark rosin from a pine tree and will still do the job. Of course you can filter it by heating it to 150-170°C and run it through a metal screen. Adding some alcohol like iso, 1% by weight glycerine and a drop (1/20ml) of dish soap for every 100ml of end product. Anything from 10 to 70% rosin containt by weight is good, depending how runny you want it. If you want it a bit more active, you can add 0,5 to 2,5% acid (1% is typically enough). It can be adipic, abietic, lactic, malic, succinic, even tartaric or citric. Don't go with Succinic though, you will have hard time dissolving it. This will beat any time 99% of the commercial fluxes, including top tier, gold label, blue checkmark ww rosin from a famous pine tree with a pedigree. 😁
Great, been having issues with amtech flux in certain situations as it just runs away from the heat and I'm always needing loads of it. Looking up some good rosin was hard to find and amazingly you're selling your own now. Good stuff!
Was literally cehcking ebay yesterday to see if you sell it. Glad to see it's here!
I have seen rumors that the majority of what is sold on the web as Amtech flux is counterfeit.
Pure natural rosin is a pretty poor flux which is why it isn't used professionally. Rosin with added "activators" is a good flux.
Nice video bro.. Beautiful image
Sorin...King of Flux.😊
at first I thought, my AdBlocker did stop working again but then I saw, it's just Rosin-, ääh, Sorin-content ;)
i like electronics because of you
I would smiff this the whole time...i bet this has to be the best smelling rosin in the world..😂
Electronics Porn in the Morning!
Good job Rosin! Ops, i mean Sorin 😂
I was wondering if you could do a video making liquid flux without isopropyl alcohol ,i have rosin flux but i cant find isopropyl flux around here
You can use any alcohol to dissolve the rosin. Isopropanol, ehtanol, or even methanol (but id be careful with methanol).
Thanks i will try out
@@Alex-mj7km It looks to me like pure ethanol can absorb about 3 times less rosin than isopropyl. But yeah if you don't mind that, it works.
That is so Sorin. There is a pad labelled NC so he solders to it.
On the other hand, that's a pretty goddamn good quality advertising video, the mofo knows something.
Nice video. Thanks for share bro!
dc nu o pui de vanzare la tine pe site? ai putea sa o vinzi mai ieftin, asa isi mai ia si ebay comision, nu?
Cannot ship to Cyprus.😥
Sadly I can not get this one in India. it is an honour if I can get a chance to buy one its like a souvenir to remember our Master
I feel @Androkavo Vibes here. Nice.
Like the branding! Sorin's capacitors - they all are dodgy! :D
what is a good option for us in the USA?
Well done
When are you going to sell hotglue sticks? 🙂
Mr Sorin I Want to buy it but I can't.Not shipping to Greece😢
Is this rosin good for dodgy repairs? 😅
Nope, it is rosin to help you make better solder points. For repair you need more than rosin.
hey hello sir, i hope you're doing well
i have lenovo ideapad slim 1 and my laptop having a usb port problem so can you make a video on it because i put usb cable with wrong positive negative side and my usb port is not working now
no shiping to germany 😞
One I stood, as when we buy generally we have bad products for soldering👍😵🙋🧡
Can't buy in Croatia.... why?
Finally! Great video, but when can you ship to Norway??
From some reason the international postage don't work, is suppose to work with their global shipping program, i call ebay later and find out why is not working
@@electronicsrepairschool Hopefully there will be no verbal redirections in videos, to shop because it will become annoying. Thats the reason why I unsub from NorthRidgeFix, it happens that he make video replacing connector, teaching nothing and promoting shop. Honest and fair job, but its not interesting nor educating.
@electronicsrepairschool yes please fix, no shipping option to US either
I just noticed ROSIN is the anagram of your name, SORIN. I now understand more why you like rosin LOL
it is cheap an veryy nice, thank your fpr the Tip
super easy to create a sticker product :D 🤣
awww sad the postage is not available in the philippines
I wonder, because i had an cheap soldering iron which didn't needed any Rosin or Flux. Than i bought expensive one and now i need this stuff. I wonder whats the difference.
The iron should make no difference. Are you still using the same solder? With good quality rosin-cored solder you should rarely require additional flux. There are many solders around now with "no clean" flux. It is much less active than activated rosin flux and requires that everything be bright, clean and easy to solder.
@@d614gakadoug9i see the solder should be 40 years old haha with lead. I will test other solder and write you back :) thanks for info
@@geekonarium
It is certainly more difficult to make nice looking joints with lead-free solder. The joints function just fine but don't look as smooth an shiny as those made with lead in the alloy. Somewhat higher temperature is need for lead-free solder than 63%-37% tin-lead solder.
In the early days of lead-free solder there were serious problems with growth of "tin whiskers." Over time long fine "crystals" of tin would form and cause short circuits. The alloys used now are far less likely to do that.
Solder has become unbelievably expensive in recent years.
@@d614gakadoug9 big thanks for the infomations :)
@@d614gakadoug9you mentioned 63%-37% tin lead, what about 60%-40% tin lead, any significant differences?
Here in Germany it’s called Kolophonium … I think it’s the same because it looks like the same 😂
Yes, it's the same. Unfortunately, if you are from Germany, you cannot order the rosin. eBay has its difficulties with this 😢 Just had to find out 😔
@@tobi1751 Hmm okay, I’ve never had problems to buy Rosin aka Kolophonium …
Or did u mean Sorin‘s Rosin?
Oh, I meant Sorin's Rosin 😅
In my workshop I have normal rosin too 😅
Hope we can order this to sweden soon. Will eBay take care of import stuff and sales tax when importing to a EU country? Otherwise the swedish post offfice will charge 7 euros extra for doing that "service". Outrageous!
Bout to dip my chicken nuggets in this rosin!
nice thumbnail
Канифоль сосновая :)
Sorin you made flux home made video please
I can give you an idea to improve your product, split that can in sections not to mess dirty all rosin 😉. Best wishes.
Imagine he made it Blue!
This means we lost a great teacher in electronics repairing?
I like liquid Kester, but the shelf life is only a year or two. I just found that out the hard way, and I exploded a power supply.
What kind of Kester? Kester makes a whole range of fluxes. Rosin types will last for many, many years.
I used to use a Kester water-xoluble flux sometimes. It is a much more active flux than even fully-activated rosin, but it is conductive and corrosive and must be fully washed off within a few hours. It smells kind of revolting.
Plain rosin as a flux just isn't very good which is why nobody uses it professionally in electronics.
@@d614gakadoug9 186 is what I have been using.
Sorin I want to buy this but I live in the us"how is this possible"🙂
SHIP TO SWEDEN!!!
Oooohhhh LA laaaa
Me so horney... 😁😂
Sorin, why don't you ship to Germany?
It's a problem with eBay, sorin said he is going to contact them today to try and sort it out 👍
@@MattyEngland THANK YOU 🫶
@@_ThRiLL_KiLL_ no worries 👍
Sorin increase price little bit, trust me.
NO SHIPPING COST TO nORWAY,CAN YOU FIX THAT_.
He said it's a problem with eBay and he's going to try and sort it out today.
Please don't become a commercial channel like Northrige :(
I thought nobody noticed. I was right. :)
I stopped watching him, all he does is advertise his services and merch, doesn't really teach anything.
Not very good at electronics either, he only does the quick jobs for easy money. He is good with his hands, but when there is a difficult job requiring brain power, he fails and just randomly swaps chips.
Nice :)
Hello🤝👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👋👋👋👋👋
Just dished out 20 bucks for chipquik flux. I'm in Oz and only tried the AliExpress rosins that come in small box. Poor quality. Anywhere locally I can get proper rosin in Melbourne. Oz.
Pure natural rosin is a poor flux. Rosin-based fluxes made for electronics work contain "activators" which greatly improve the anti-oxidation properties and even make the flux capable of "removing" existing minor surface oxidation. There are two general categories "RMA" for Rosin, Mildly Activated and "RA" for Rosin, Activated. Unsurprisingly, the latter is more aggressive. It is generally safe to leave the residues on a circuit board even with RA, but if you are dealing with very high impedance circuitry or the circuit will be subjected to adverse environmental conditions it is best to remove it. Rosin-based fluxes are easy to remove with mild organic solvents such as isopropyl alcohol (aka isopropanol, 2-propanol).
There are a lot of "no-clean" fluxes in use these days. They are sort of comparable to RA in terms of activity. Any I've ever used are exceedingly difficult to remove. Common organic solvents work very poorly. The "best" way is apparently to use an aqueous process with a saponifier and a strong spray.
Don't bother looking for pure rosin. It simply isn't worth the effort. The Chipquick flux you are using is probably a much better flux. Of course Chipquick has a variety of products so I can't be sure what you are using.
It seems that an awful lot of hobbyists these days want to slop extra flux all over everything. Sometimes a tiny bit of extra flux is a big help. Tinning stranded wire is one place where it is. If you have good technique and use good quality flux-cored solder you rarely need extra flux.
@@d614gakadoug9You can never have too much flux 😂
@@MattyEngland
I guess, if you don't mind your work looking like it was done by an rank amateur hack who hasn't really learned to solder.
Decades ago the PCBs in lots of consumer electronics had huge amounts of residual flux from wave soldering.
@@d614gakadoug9 Obviously you clean up afterwards.
😂 Nice!
Can't buy, i have a bucket full (more than a kilo) that i have to use first..
I'm in italy and i don't buy it because you don't send in italy 😢
When engineer demonstrate it really works. Hopefully there will be no verbal redirections in videos, to shop because it will become annoying. Thats the reason why I unsub from NorthRidgeFix, it happens that he make video replacing connector, teaching nothing and promoting shop. Honest and fair job, but its not interesting nor educating.
Sorin is entitled to promote his product, just like Northridgefix. You are a sponge, take but don't give back. I highly doubt Northridgefix gives a monkeys if you unsubbed, you just take without giving back. Same for Sorin, he couldn't care less if you unsub because you don't like him promoting his own product after all the value he gives people, you will not be missed be assured of that.
@@marksutherland774 You know I am sponge just by one YT comment?
Try to think twice before you write something. If you have with what to think.
You have all the right in this world to say what you want, but it will not necessarily be true.
People dont like forced ads. Its my advice is not do it. He is free to do whatever he wants with his channel and life. Like you are. Like I am.
Another thing is, both Sorin and NorthRidgeFix will not care if I unsub, correct. But when people start unsubing, the same amount as subbing, they stay at constant number of subs. Its not good for them, they dont earn more money.
@@orion310591RS Listen to your own advice and show some respect to people who give up their time to help people learn stuff.
I'm just asking
Just use zinc chloride and clean it with isopropyl alcohol.. Very easy to clean and you can use just a little amount on the pad or wire you want to solder.
Zinc chloride will corrode the living hell out of the PCB and wires. Better use stuff for its intended purpose, like soldering pipes and galvanized sheet metal.
*_NO!_*
Zinc chloride is a very very bad choice for electronic work. It can result in an endless cycle of corrosion if it isn't completely removed. It is impossible to completely remove it from things like stranded wire.
Use fluxes made of electronics work, such as mildly-activate rosin (RMA) or activated rosin (RA).
@@Alex-mj7km
Sorry, I should have read your comment first. I didn't mean to re-hash it. You are absolutely right!