It's been about 7 years, scince I have discovered this channel. And I just wanted to thank you, for all the content you have created, and all the information you have shared with us. It's been a great and entertaining time, and I'm pretty sure I've learned a lot about locks and their secrets. Enjoy your retirement! Best regards from Germany!
Total life saver man. I bought a smart lock and everything worked perfect. Threw away my old lock because it was working flawlessly. Then I decided to try unlocking it with the key, and this is where it went all downhill. I put the key in, turned it and the tumbler came out about halfway! I'm like oh crap that isnt good. So I had to uninstall the lock off the door and take it all apart again. After I separated it, I looked inside and saw a bunch of pins and springs. I searched Google for awhile to how and fix it and came up with nothing. Didn't really know the search terms. I hopped onto TH-cam (which I shouldve in the first place considering I'm a TH-camr 😂) and came across your video. With me having zero knowledge about how to rekey a lock, your video walked me through it. Great explanation and easy to follow instructions. I can now safely lock my house tonight! From one TH-camr to another, Thank you!
I was trying to disassemble my Weiser deadbolt to re-key it and couldn't find the correct instructions for my particular style lock. When I finally got the barrel loose, in the blink of an eye the parts went in all directions. Thanks to your video I got the courage to collect the parts together, re-assemble it and re-key. Works great now. Hats off to you!
Bill, I can't tell you anything about picking but as a locksmith who works on locks daily can can tell you a few things about loading top pins.... 1st off I like to use a nylon follower that's translucent in color. That helps in loading the first pin showing a good background to work against. The plastic followers are also a lot lighter and easier to control. 2nd, the slot cut in the end of the follower is used to guide the top pin into the hole. Most of time I don't even use a tweezer, I use a probe to push down the pin as its being guided by the slot. The first pin is always the toughest to get the rest get easier as they get closer to you. And 3rdly, stop calling the right side of your kit as junk. Master pinning is how I make my living.... Thanks for your great picking videos I'm a long time subscriber...
What pjdambra said!! I use a nylon follower also. Master pins are essential for smiths. I've always started in the middle and worked out from each side so I don't have to reach in as far but whatever works for you. Also thoughtlessly selecting bottom pins and top pins can lead to trouble. If the total pin length is too long you won't be inserting the key for starters.
Good tips on the nylon plastic followers. As for his comment regarding master pins, he did preface it by saying that "for him" they were junk. And in knowing that they can/do make multiple shear lines and therefore a much easier compromised lock ... as you already know, just saying for others.
I think Bill meant "junk for a locksport aficionado", not "junk for locksmiths". The primary focus of this video appears to be helping newbies reassemble locks they've taken apart and couldn't put back together again, rather than telling locksmiths how to do their jobs.
This video made me cry tears of joy and relief. I broke my key off in a (very old) Corbin lock. I watched another video on how to get the cylinder out then tried the spare key to make sure everything was good to be reassembled when the cylinder exploded the pins. THANKS FOR THIS!!! 🎉
very nice video , a lot of people will find this usefull. Great idea with the cut down housing. Here are just a few tips i can give you , that I've learned from experience: - When you are pinning a lock with a plug follower , it helps to start on the middle , then do one half , push the follower through the core , and then do the other half. That way , the plug follower fits more snugly in the core. - When you pin up a lock with a groove in the core (or disassemble a lock that you don't know) slide a shim between the core and the housing. It prevent the housing pins from jamming up in the groove. - When pinning small cores , the back end of a drill bit (the cylindrical part) makes a good makeshift plug follower. - I have made a habbit of putting my thumb on the core of a cylinder whenever I pull out a key. That has prevented a lot of cores flying out because they haven't had the circlip installed yet. There is also a use for (the larger of) the master wafers you have. In locks with a short bilbe , you can use a master wafer as a shorter top pin. In some locks , the larger size key pins have shorter top pins. Its called compensated pin stack. Eurolockguy
I have done my own amateur locksmithinig and never fully understand a lot of the craft. this video is a great reference and is very helpful! thank you for putting it out there 👍🏽
From despair to utter satisfaction: I was just about to give up on the cilinder I took completely apart because of the broken key inside it. I had a good and long look on all the loose springs and pins but just couldn't figure out how to assemble them back into the cilinder. So big thanks for your instructional video. I used a thick outdoor electricity cable as a follower. Works as a charm! Lock refitted and works just fine. Saves me from replacing the cilinder with a new one and all 8 keys which circulate in the family. Thanks a lot!
Tweezers that cost two bucks at a DOLLAR store.... I think you got ripped off lol, been slowly watching your vids and I just had to say I've learned a lot and I'm now starting to try this myself. All great vids and informative
I've never done anything remotely close to this but I'd seen your video and other videos in the past to know a little bit of whats going on. A family member snapped a key in the lock and her ex boyfriend was trying to get the key out. I told him how to get the key out but had to be very careful with the pins and springs. He didn't listen and the first one came out. I told him that's what I was talking about and that they have to come out in order. Again he didn't listen and pulled them all out. Things went everywhere. I took it out of his hands and he gave up and ordered a new one before I even looked at it. I don't have all the tools and I needed to watch this video again to refresh my memory. Thank You.
This saved my life because of my finances at the moment. Can't thank you enough my brother. Subbed even though I probably won't need anything else like this anytime soon. Will binge a few of your videos as a thank you. Probably gonna learn something I could use but will have to come back to anyway. This will be my first stop in the future. Most videos in the search were about installation even though I searched reassemble
Nice video. 0 bitted would actually have top pins, springs, and all 0 bottom pins and would operate with a blank. Assuming you have a gauge for each brand, you can just measure the key and use the chart on the inside lid of your pin kit. Your Yale key might have the bitting code stamped on it, which would make it a whole lot easier.
I used to work at a pretty nice apartment complex down in Texas And the head maintenance guy named Jeff actually taught me how to put a lock back together or even custom. Great video!!
I find the lockpicking hobby to be really neat and all, but for me this was all about security. This me absolutely confident to rekey the locks to my new house and add security pins to all of them to prevent bumping. Thanks Bill!
Im a newbie. Im a month on the job. So all the references on thinga that frustrated you, hit home for me lol. You were teaching me and had me laughing. Thanks Bos.
Damn, you make this look way easy. I just got my cutaway lock from Sparrows and then I gutted to re-key it. I choose the green key from the re-pining kit and I fumbled the bible and all the pins came out and then I had to match the pins to the key, 5 times now. It took me maybe 5 mins to learn to pick the standard 5 pins and maybe 2 hours now trying to put it back together, and here I'm watching this video again for the billionth time. I hope I can get it back together soon. I did it I got it back together, I'm so stoked. I put 1 serrated into pin 1 of the green key and I was able to pick it relatively easily and I appear to have my very 1st naughty bucket lock. I found a deal on Amazon for $14.00 I got 2 keyed alike Zinc Mortise Cylinder in Aluminum locks. I honestly thought it would be easy to pick at that price point and that I would repin them. I wanted something different than the Sparrows cutaway lock. I got my tax return after my first order from Sparrows my 2nd order contains more picks and the progressive locks and I even got the master pining kit anyway the Mortise locks I can't pick them, at least not yet, so I have a goal lock and I will have all of the Sparrow's training locks except the revolver which I will likely buy that one next tax year. So with your videos, I hope to become proficient at lock picking.
Great video! I own an official plug-follower, but made some out of bulk opaque white plastic tubing from an Ace Hardware store which was probably like $0.15-$0.20 per foot and cut it with wire cutters.
I found that a 7.62x54R bullet casing fits most mortise cylinders quite well. If you cut the neck of the case off where it crimps to the bullet, but leave a little bit of the bevel at the end it works fantastic for capturing your pins when sliding into the bible. Just a tip that might help someone in a pinch!
Helpful video. Im a newbie myself, i do this when customers want some of their hardware keyed alike. However, being a newbie i took the core out of the bible and pins and springs went everywhere. This video helped me on how to approach and fix my screw up. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Bill, great video.. All of your videos have been very informative.. A few tricks I learned along the way was, If I forgot my follower or only had a hollow one and the pesky top pins and springs escaped. I would use a Maglight Solitaire flashlight that is always on my keyring fits right in... Plus with it on you can see inside as you restack the top.. Also I would carry a small reamer in my pinning kit to chamfer the holes on the plug. That makes everything a little smoother but may compromise security a little.. Ok I gave the Good, The Bad, now the Ugly... Many years ago when I worked out in the field... We had to rekey or install a new cylinder in to an apartment building, an old apartment building with maybe 60 units.. The owner/super didn't want the expense of making new key for everyone.. So the problem is setting up the cylinder to work on existing keys.. most were copies of copies of copies... If rekeyed to spec. it would have been a nightmare.. So the trick.. yes I know it wasn't right.. was to turn the bottom pins facing up and put in bottom pins with the point facing down.. Yea I know if you sneeze while facing the lock it may open.. Back then most people didn't know about picking locks (no internet) . The owner/super was warned about compromised security... He didn't care, bottom line was he wasn't going to shell out for a min. 120 + copies of keys or hear endless complaints... I remember hearing, reading...? not to use spool/mushroom..security pins in the first chamber maybe not the last as well? Something about the plug binding up.. I don't recall.. Thanks again... Locksmithing is a constant changing field so it's always good to see different ideas and views ..
Aweasome video I had an old deadbolt from work with no key. so I ssp'd it open and used my practice locks extra pins to rekey to an old key I found in a junk drawer at home. all was good until I tried to pull that key out before I fasted the nut on the back. springs and pins EVERYWHERE!!!!!!! LOL live and learn. what a PITA but in the end it was cool to build a functional lock. thanks for all your videos and hope you post another soon
When Bill is talking about springs he should have mentioned to make sure the springs work in the lock BEFORE pinning the whole lock up. Remove all pins and install the spring you wish to use, the driver you want and than install the bottom pin and put the cylinder together. The key should move freely when pushed in the lock. Also do this for High Low cuts to make sure the Low cut can push the pins high enough to clear. We still have to operate within the tolerances of the lock when trying to screw our buddy
rallock67 I know this is a bit out of date ... But I was just seeing how people felt about this video on repinning. And I have heard well every reason from... I almost pooped myself to your comments. I agree with this one the most. When I was starting out picking I would try extremely hard and yhink way out of the box. But it took me a while to put it together that the tolerance in a lock isn't just how tight the pin fits in the chamber giving less feedback moment. But the tolerance in a lock are figured and cataloged. I am ashamed that I don't remember the exact term or even the acronim. But it is a big section of a locksmith corse. And keeps the key from getting stuck in the lock or not working at all. Again sorry for commenting on an old post.
Fantastic just what I needed to know. Only practicing at the min and it’ll be really handy to first take it apart and know what kind of pins I’m dealing with before trying to pick
I'm loving your channel Bill. I'm the fourth generation locksmith in my family, and you are by far a 10x better lockpicker than I am. Have you considered using a pick gun? Btw on the pinning kit you should have a chart with different lock manufacturers names. It shows the cuts they use so you don't have to scramble around for the right pins, and if you are keying to original precuts they should have the numbers stamped on the side. Top pins can get interesting too, I manage several buildings with about 3 or 4 keys that have to work the exterior and hallway doors. Master pinning can be a drag but i find it enjoyable.
I'm just getting into this "locksport" and found this Very helpful ....Thank You .....it seems that most makes use the same size pins then, unusual if the point is to confuse the person trying to pick the lock but i suppose it comes down to manufacturing costs .......: )
If I'm correct - could be missing something here: Typically in a basic lock, key pins (pins in the core) are the only ones where length matters, because they have to match up with the sheer line when the key is inserted, yes? As such, driver pins (pins in the bible) don't need to be a specific length because they have no effect on that. They're all the same length. However where security pins are concerned, using different lengths and types will affect a picker, along with the different springs used. A basic principle of security is that it is more effective in layers, even in the various "security" features used in a lock. Different types of springs offer different types of resistance and different styles and lengths of security pins offer different kinds of feedback to a picker. Like Bill said if you simply put all spool pins in its not difficult to read the pattern, so you remove the pattern by mixing it up and adding to it. If I'm correct security pins can also be used as driver pins as well as key pins, thus there are different lengths. Overpass the sheer line and a security pin may make the attacker think its picked when they've already dealt with a security pin in that chamber.
wish i'd stumbled on your video BEFORE i threw the whole damn assembly away. thinking about digging it out of the garbage but with my luck i'd come out 1 pin or 1 spring short🤔GREAT VIDEO, THANKS 👍
I'm waiting for my lock-picking kit to come in if you have any extra locks to practice on send them my way you did a great job in this video I'm starting my road to becoming a locksmith
Bosnianbill thank you so much for showing and sharing this video because I have some locks that I didn't knew how to put back and I need to get a pining kit
good video bill. now i know what i need to do to re-pin this lock i have,,, one of my neighbors gave me a Gate House Mortise Cylinder (Deadbolt) lock. while i was trying to impression a key for it, i managed to pick it open, and right before that i somehow knocked the Circlip off the back of the cylinder... so when i picked it the damn thing fell apart and the springs and pins went everywhere... now i know how to put new springs/pins in it. thanks!
Zero-bitted doesn’t mean the plug and cylinder are empty; it means they are both full, full of spring, top pins and zero-sized bottom pins, wherein any blank (uncut) key will open the lock.
Great video Bill. I, myself, don't use tweezers to load the bible. I use a dental pick just easier for me. Also you are only using half your follower. The cut out helps great when loading pins & springs in the bible. As for .005 or .003 kits, the .003 kit allows you to pin cylinders to closer tolerances. I started off with a .005 and just couldn't pin up some off brand locks as the pins weren't close enough, The .003 allows most lock brands also
I wish i would have found this video befor last night lol. I bought a lock to play with repin and pick. well I pulled the clip off the rear. and had my key in. for some reason I wasn't thinking and i pulled the key and i had a mess,I got it back together.
pinning the bible without pin tweezers. I use a small flat head screw driver 1/4 inch wide. then take a spring and put the tip of the driver flat side up through the top opening of a spring. it will stay that way while you load the top holes with springs. once all the springs are loaded, lay it down make sure the springs do not fall out. then taking a piece of masking tape also 1/4 inch. wrap it around the flat tip, sticky side up. i usually leave a small piece of tape and bend it over the blade to hold it in place while i then tape it to the driver shaft. then taking a driver pin stick it to the tape it stays while i load it into the first hole facing me. that way it will go all the way down. then insert the follower from the other end and push it through to hold the pin in place. and do the same with the rest of the pins. no pin tweezers needed. easier to show then typing this .happy pinning .
Bill, Thank you very much, I was waiting for this video, you answered many of my questions. Great job, keep up the good work. I use deep well sockets for my plug followers, come in different sizes. If you get the 3D printer revved up, send a set of followers my way 😆 thanks again "Brother" !
Exellent video very educational I learnt the hardest way I ise to make a mess every thing everywhere this video will help people like me who didnt have a clue but still decided to go ahead thnks for sharing :))
Two bucks, at the Dollar store...haha Thats like telling someone Penny for your thought, but I want a nickel change back... AND THANK YOU! Because I have struggled with trying to figure that process out. Oh, ( tongue in cheek) Nice to put a Face, to the voice that has inspired so many....
Damn. Fantastic instructional video. Reboot for new subscribers at some point? Another collab with LPL would be awesome as well. Thanks for what you do, Bill.
Newbie here who made a newbie mistake. I didn't know what T pins were used for. But when at 9:34 I saw Bill choosing a T-pin as a security pin, I though hey great idea. So installed one in an ABUS 300 series S2 core (Schlage C 6-pin) I was repining. I installed it with the narrower end down in pin #3 or #4 (can't remember). And then when I rotated the core it locked itself. By examine another identical core I've noticed there is a small dimple parallel to the six pinning holes, it's located right next to hole #3 or hole #4. It has the exact diameter ans depth of the narrow end of T-pin. By rotating the core the T-pin narrower end dropped in that dimple (hole) and the core was locked. I'm guessing the core is done and there's nothing I can do, right? And if I want to retrieve the key I'm gonna have to drill the core by the top so I can extract that T-pin and it's spring. By the way, what's the main purpose of top T pins and what is the purpose of that damn small dimple in the core??? Thank you!
Hello, Bosnianbill: Taking off and replacing the rear C fastening ring seems difficult for me. If there's a right way, I don't know it. I'm in the UK, I don't know yet where to purchase a lock-pin-set. I'll keep looking. I will do this - in time. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
I learned it the hard way. Wish I had seen this video first. Have you ever used a clear follower and/or the ones that had a V groove on the end of the follower? Seems like ambient light would transmit thru it and provide light inside the body. Also, with using different springs, I havent been able to distinguish much difference in some of the ones I have. Yeah, still a newbie. I mixed ASSA springs with Kwikset in an ASSA 600, with security pins and couldnt tell any difference. Does the difference in springs come into play mainly when for instance, working with false sets with spools that make the spools slip back down more easily if it has a stronger spring behind it? Looks like a monster of a setup. Too bad I didnt pick it before you sent it away.
Just a note for thoes intrested, there are pinning charts for most common manufactures of locks that can cut out your guess work. They will provide the .000# that is related to the cut on the key. Heres a link. www.goulian.com/lockkill/page1/files/pin%20chart.pdf
***** Yea that happens sometimes, no matter how many times you check yourself and the pins your using You end up using one pin .005 up or down to make it all work. That's the beauty of it all.
Measure the diameter of the plug, and subtract the depth of the cut. This is your pin length. Some locks may very a bit if the key does not ride on the inside of the cylinder but it will be really close.
2:40 These are not surgical tweezers, these are anatomical tweezers. Surgical tweezes have 3 pins at the end to cause less tissue damage during surgery, a small prick heals faster then a piece of crushed tissue. Anatomical tweezes were originally used in autopsies but are now mostly used to hold other things needed in procedures like cotton swabs. The name difference is important if someone wanted to order them, you cant file surgical tweezers down to a usable tool.
I was wondering about putting an extra pin in the 6th. A local locksmith advised against it stating that a copy may not be as long. I'm with you though!
Actually zero bitting Has top Springs,drivers and the key pins the conical key pins are zero and comes with a key blank that will engage the zero pins to turn the plug in the cylinder meaning this lock is partially assembled kind of like a Medeco sub assembled cylinder
I opened a schalge lock once and it was just packed with those wafer pins everywhere; why are they used? There were also these pins where one would have a peg sticking out of it and the one right next to it in the same side of the chamber would have a hole in it where the peg would fit; this kind of security pin I have never seen in your videos, nor have I ever seen a schalge lock. Have you ever seen this?
Thanks for another great video. Id be very interested in getting a link to a pinning kit such as your using in this video, wafer style not needed though.... cant remember the last time I saw a wafer mech lock anyway. Seems the kit you have has followers included, thats a bonus in my eyes. any link advice would be great.
when i got it picked, i just ditched the key i was trying to impression, because i can now pin it to fit a key i already have,,, no need to impression/make one for it.
It's been about 7 years, scince I have discovered this channel. And I just wanted to thank you, for all the content you have created, and all the information you have shared with us. It's been a great and entertaining time, and I'm pretty sure I've learned a lot about locks and their secrets.
Enjoy your retirement!
Best regards from Germany!
YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER! Mine exploded when I was getting curious and now I have to put it all back together 😂
same here, was trying to fix my door and next thing I know, I Fxxxked up hehehe
i had one blow up on me july 1999! i hid it from my boss!
Total life saver man. I bought a smart lock and everything worked perfect. Threw away my old lock because it was working flawlessly. Then I decided to try unlocking it with the key, and this is where it went all downhill.
I put the key in, turned it and the tumbler came out about halfway! I'm like oh crap that isnt good. So I had to uninstall the lock off the door and take it all apart again. After I separated it, I looked inside and saw a bunch of pins and springs.
I searched Google for awhile to how and fix it and came up with nothing. Didn't really know the search terms. I hopped onto TH-cam (which I shouldve in the first place considering I'm a TH-camr 😂) and came across your video.
With me having zero knowledge about how to rekey a lock, your video walked me through it. Great explanation and easy to follow instructions. I can now safely lock my house tonight! From one TH-camr to another, Thank you!
I was trying to disassemble my Weiser deadbolt to re-key it and couldn't find the correct instructions for my particular style lock. When I finally got the barrel loose, in the blink of an eye the parts went in all directions. Thanks to your video I got the courage to collect the parts together, re-assemble it and re-key. Works great now. Hats off to you!
Bill, I can't tell you anything about picking but as a locksmith who works on locks daily can can tell you a few things about loading top pins....
1st off I like to use a nylon follower that's translucent in color. That helps in loading the first pin showing a good background to work against. The plastic followers are also a lot lighter and easier to control. 2nd, the slot cut in the end of the follower is used to guide the top pin into the hole. Most of time I don't even use a tweezer, I use a probe to push down the pin as its being guided by the slot. The first pin is always the toughest to get the rest get easier as they get closer to you. And 3rdly, stop calling the right side of your kit as junk. Master pinning is how I make my living.... Thanks for your great picking videos I'm a long time subscriber...
What pjdambra said!! I use a nylon follower also. Master pins are essential for smiths. I've always started in the middle and worked out from each side so I don't have to reach in as far but whatever works for you. Also thoughtlessly selecting bottom pins and top pins can lead to trouble. If the total pin length is too long you won't be inserting the key for starters.
Good tips on the nylon plastic followers. As for his comment regarding master pins, he did preface it by saying that "for him" they were junk. And in knowing that they can/do make multiple shear lines and therefore a much easier compromised lock ... as you already know, just saying for others.
I think Bill meant "junk for a locksport aficionado", not "junk for locksmiths". The primary focus of this video appears to be helping newbies reassemble locks they've taken apart and couldn't put back together again, rather than telling locksmiths how to do their jobs.
This video made me cry tears of joy and relief. I broke my key off in a (very old) Corbin lock. I watched another video on how to get the cylinder out then tried the spare key to make sure everything was good to be reassembled when the cylinder exploded the pins. THANKS FOR THIS!!! 🎉
lmfao "the cat hair". the way you just slipped it in xD.
very nice video , a lot of people will find this usefull. Great idea with the cut down housing.
Here are just a few tips i can give you , that I've learned from experience:
- When you are pinning a lock with a plug follower , it helps to start on the middle , then do one half , push the follower through the core , and then do the other half. That way , the plug follower fits more snugly in the core.
- When you pin up a lock with a groove in the core (or disassemble a lock that you don't know) slide a shim between the core and the housing. It prevent the housing pins from jamming up in the groove.
- When pinning small cores , the back end of a drill bit (the cylindrical part) makes a good makeshift plug follower.
- I have made a habbit of putting my thumb on the core of a cylinder whenever I pull out a key. That has prevented a lot of cores flying out because they haven't had the circlip installed yet.
There is also a use for (the larger of) the master wafers you have. In locks with a short bilbe , you can use a master wafer as a shorter top pin.
In some locks , the larger size key pins have shorter top pins. Its called compensated pin stack.
Eurolockguy
🤣😂 I'm getting a cat Wednesday so I can replicate the reminding down to the cat hair!! VERY HELPFUL. Thanks
I have done my own amateur locksmithinig and never fully understand a lot of the craft. this video is a great reference and is very helpful! thank you for putting it out there 👍🏽
From despair to utter satisfaction: I was just about to give up on the cilinder I took completely apart because of the broken key inside it. I had a good and long look on all the loose springs and pins but just couldn't figure out how to assemble them back into the cilinder. So big thanks for your instructional video. I used a thick outdoor electricity cable as a follower. Works as a charm! Lock refitted and works just fine. Saves me from replacing the cilinder with a new one and all 8 keys which circulate in the family. Thanks a lot!
Tweezers that cost two bucks at a DOLLAR store.... I think you got ripped off lol, been slowly watching your vids and I just had to say I've learned a lot and I'm now starting to try this myself. All great vids and informative
They saw him coming in and he was winner of the day.
They charged him double.
dude if you paid 2 bucks at a dollar store you got ripped off too
I've never done anything remotely close to this but I'd seen your video and other videos in the past to know a little bit of whats going on. A family member snapped a key in the lock and her ex boyfriend was trying to get the key out. I told him how to get the key out but had to be very careful with the pins and springs. He didn't listen and the first one came out. I told him that's what I was talking about and that they have to come out in order. Again he didn't listen and pulled them all out. Things went everywhere. I took it out of his hands and he gave up and ordered a new one before I even looked at it. I don't have all the tools and I needed to watch this video again to refresh my memory.
Thank You.
This video is six years old how did i miss it. You made it so much easier then the nightmare i doing
This saved my life because of my finances at the moment. Can't thank you enough my brother. Subbed even though I probably won't need anything else like this anytime soon. Will binge a few of your videos as a thank you. Probably gonna learn something I could use but will have to come back to anyway. This will be my first stop in the future. Most videos in the search were about installation even though I searched reassemble
"...it disassembled faster than my eye could follow..." hilarious!
I about pooped my self when you opened that tray with all the pins in it.
Nice video.
0 bitted would actually have top pins, springs, and all 0 bottom pins and would operate with a blank.
Assuming you have a gauge for each brand, you can just measure the key and use the chart on the inside lid of your pin kit. Your Yale key might have the bitting code stamped on it, which would make it a whole lot easier.
I used to work at a pretty nice apartment complex down in Texas And the head maintenance guy named Jeff actually taught me how to put a lock back together or even custom. Great video!!
Where in Texas I might need Jeff help
I find the lockpicking hobby to be really neat and all, but for me this was all about security. This me absolutely confident to rekey the locks to my new house and add security pins to all of them to prevent bumping. Thanks Bill!
Im a newbie. Im a month on the job. So all the references on thinga that frustrated you, hit home for me lol. You were teaching me and had me laughing. Thanks Bos.
Damn, you make this look way easy. I just got my cutaway lock from Sparrows and then I gutted to re-key it. I choose the green key from the re-pining kit and I fumbled the bible and all the pins came out and then I had to match the pins to the key, 5 times now. It took me maybe 5 mins to learn to pick the standard 5 pins and maybe 2 hours now trying to put it back together, and here I'm watching this video again for the billionth time. I hope I can get it back together soon.
I did it I got it back together, I'm so stoked. I put 1 serrated into pin 1 of the green key and I was able to pick it relatively easily and I appear to have my very 1st naughty bucket lock. I found a deal on Amazon for $14.00 I got 2 keyed alike Zinc Mortise Cylinder in Aluminum locks. I honestly thought it would be easy to pick at that price point and that I would repin them. I wanted something different than the Sparrows cutaway lock. I got my tax return after my first order from Sparrows my 2nd order contains more picks and the progressive locks and I even got the master pining kit anyway the Mortise locks I can't pick them, at least not yet, so I have a goal lock and I will have all of the Sparrow's training locks except the revolver which I will likely buy that one next tax year. So with your videos, I hope to become proficient at lock picking.
Great video! I own an official plug-follower, but made some out of bulk opaque white plastic tubing from an Ace Hardware store which was probably like $0.15-$0.20 per foot and cut it with wire cutters.
Thanks, Bill. The dreaded top pin dispersion happened. I almost panicked, then remembered your video. All is well again.
I found that a 7.62x54R bullet casing fits most mortise cylinders quite well. If you cut the neck of the case off where it crimps to the bullet, but leave a little bit of the bevel at the end it works fantastic for capturing your pins when sliding into the bible. Just a tip that might help someone in a pinch!
:/ One less brass to reload... would a .30-06 or a .308 work as well?
i use a 3oo win mag
Thank you Bill for this video.
I am more knowledgeable and things have clicked into place.
So thanks again for your time.
Helpful video. Im a newbie myself, i do this when customers want some of their hardware keyed alike. However, being a newbie i took the core out of the bible and pins and springs went everywhere. This video helped me on how to approach and fix my screw up. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Bill, great video.. All of your videos have been very informative.. A few tricks I learned along the way was, If I forgot my follower or only had a hollow one and the pesky top pins and springs escaped. I would use a Maglight Solitaire flashlight that is always on my keyring fits right in... Plus with it on you can see inside as you restack the top..
Also I would carry a small reamer in my pinning kit to chamfer the holes on the plug. That makes everything a little smoother but may compromise security a little..
Ok I gave the Good, The Bad, now the Ugly... Many years ago when I worked out in the field... We had to rekey or install a new cylinder in to an apartment building, an old apartment building with maybe 60 units.. The owner/super didn't want the expense of making new key for everyone.. So the problem is setting up the cylinder to work on existing keys.. most were copies of copies of copies... If rekeyed to spec. it would have been a nightmare.. So the trick.. yes I know it wasn't right.. was to turn the bottom pins facing up and put in bottom pins with the point facing down.. Yea I know if you sneeze while facing the lock it may open.. Back then most people didn't know about picking locks (no internet) . The owner/super was warned about compromised security... He didn't care, bottom line was he wasn't going to shell out for a min. 120 + copies of keys or hear endless complaints...
I remember hearing, reading...? not to use spool/mushroom..security pins in the first chamber maybe not the last as well? Something about the plug binding up.. I don't recall..
Thanks again... Locksmithing is a constant changing field so it's always good to see different ideas and views ..
Bill May be Retired but his video's still live on, Hope he had a great Christmas and a new Year too
Amazing tutorial. This helped me put back together the front door lock after I undid one too many screws. Thank you!
Aweasome video I had an old deadbolt from work with no key. so I ssp'd it open and used my practice locks extra pins to rekey to an old key I found in a junk drawer at home. all was good until I tried to pull that key out before I fasted the nut on the back. springs and pins EVERYWHERE!!!!!!! LOL live and learn. what a PITA but in the end it was cool to build a functional lock. thanks for all your videos and hope you post another soon
Thanks for the help,I managed to get my lock back together thanks to this video
When Bill is talking about springs he should have mentioned to make sure the springs work in the lock BEFORE pinning the whole lock up. Remove all pins and install the spring you wish to use, the driver you want and than install the bottom pin and put the cylinder together. The key should move freely when pushed in the lock. Also do this for High Low cuts to make sure the Low cut can push the pins high enough to clear. We still have to operate within the tolerances of the lock when trying to screw our buddy
rallock67
I know this is a bit out of date ...
But I was just seeing how people felt about this video on repinning. And I have heard well every reason from... I almost pooped myself to your comments. I agree with this one the most. When I was starting out picking I would try extremely hard and yhink way out of the box. But it took me a while to put it together that the tolerance in a lock isn't just how tight the pin fits in the chamber giving less feedback moment. But the tolerance in a lock are figured and cataloged. I am ashamed that I don't remember the exact term or even the acronim. But it is a big section of a locksmith corse. And keeps the key from getting stuck in the lock or not working at all.
Again sorry for commenting on an old post.
MACS, or Maximum Adjacent Cut Specification?
Fantastic just what I needed to know. Only practicing at the min and it’ll be really handy to first take it apart and know what kind of pins I’m dealing with before trying to pick
I'm loving your channel Bill. I'm the fourth generation locksmith in my family, and you are by far a 10x better lockpicker than I am. Have you considered using a pick gun? Btw on the pinning kit you should have a chart with different lock manufacturers names. It shows the cuts they use so you don't have to scramble around for the right pins, and if you are keying to original precuts they should have the numbers stamped on the side. Top pins can get interesting too, I manage several buildings with about 3 or 4 keys that have to work the exterior and hallway doors. Master pinning can be a drag but i find it enjoyable.
8 years old and still gold!
Outstanding tutorial buddy. That will have helped many newcomers to locksport.
and still is!
I'm just getting into this "locksport" and found this Very helpful ....Thank You .....it seems that most makes use the same size pins then, unusual if the point is to confuse the person trying to pick the lock but i suppose it comes down to manufacturing costs .......: )
Wow, I'm a total novice. Key follower tip blew my mind. Thank you.
THANK YOU THIS SAVED ME SO MUCH TIME AND ANGER
That’s an old one bill but very interesting. Many times I’ve wondered how you guys get them locks back together. Now I know. 🔑
You are a true teacher. 👍
Bill makes it look easy but it's a helluva lot harder when the top is still on the lock!
Great video, properly the best explained ' lock assembly' I've seen personally. Great repinning tutorial bill
I know it's an old video. Thanks for the great video. The cutout and everything to demonstrate was fantastic
Excellent ! Now I know what to do with all my cores. Thank you so much.
Awesome video. I always knew he had bags and bags of disassembled locks laying around lol you have way more patience than I do 👍👍
Everything is clear to me but how you figure the right length of the pins inside the "Bible??
If I'm correct - could be missing something here: Typically in a basic lock, key pins (pins in the core) are the only ones where length matters, because they have to match up with the sheer line when the key is inserted, yes? As such, driver pins (pins in the bible) don't need to be a specific length because they have no effect on that. They're all the same length. However where security pins are concerned, using different lengths and types will affect a picker, along with the different springs used. A basic principle of security is that it is more effective in layers, even in the various "security" features used in a lock. Different types of springs offer different types of resistance and different styles and lengths of security pins offer different kinds of feedback to a picker. Like Bill said if you simply put all spool pins in its not difficult to read the pattern, so you remove the pattern by mixing it up and adding to it. If I'm correct security pins can also be used as driver pins as well as key pins, thus there are different lengths. Overpass the sheer line and a security pin may make the attacker think its picked when they've already dealt with a security pin in that chamber.
wish i'd stumbled on your video BEFORE i threw the whole damn assembly away.
thinking about digging it out of the garbage but with my luck i'd come out 1 pin or 1 spring short🤔GREAT VIDEO, THANKS 👍
I'm waiting for my lock-picking kit to come in if you have any extra locks to practice on send them my way you did a great job in this video I'm starting my road to becoming a locksmith
I was about to purchase a micro lathe to make what I call "Shaker pins". I'm gonna try this first, thanks. I'll send you a puzzle when it's done 👍
Bosnianbill thank you so much for showing and sharing this video because I have some locks that I didn't knew how to put back and I need to get a pining kit
good video bill. now i know what i need to do to re-pin this lock i have,,, one of my neighbors gave me a Gate House Mortise Cylinder (Deadbolt) lock. while i was trying to impression a key for it, i managed to pick it open, and right before that i somehow knocked the Circlip off the back of the cylinder... so when i picked it the damn thing fell apart and the springs and pins went everywhere... now i know how to put new springs/pins in it. thanks!
''I don't know who's getting this back but man.. I feel sorry for you'' XD
Nie video, thanks!
Zero-bitted doesn’t mean the plug and cylinder are empty; it means they are both full, full of spring, top pins and zero-sized bottom pins, wherein any blank (uncut) key will open the lock.
Great video Bill. I, myself, don't use tweezers to load the bible. I use a dental pick just easier for me. Also you are only using half your follower. The cut out helps great when loading pins & springs in the bible.
As for .005 or .003 kits, the .003 kit allows you to pin cylinders to closer tolerances. I started off with a .005 and just couldn't pin up some off brand locks as the pins weren't close enough, The .003 allows most lock brands also
I use a Lab .003 kit and I am extremely happy with it!
haha great video for a total novice like me, i did what everyone says not to do, yep springs and pins everywhere. thanks again.
Thank you so much it helps a lot. I done repairing our door lock. 👏👏👏
I wish i would have found this video befor last night lol. I bought a lock to play with repin and pick. well I pulled the clip off the rear. and had my key in. for some reason I wasn't thinking and i pulled the key and i had a mess,I got it back together.
You did such a good job explaining , it’s all starting to come together. Have a great day.
Thanks, I needed that. Really. Re-keying between renters is expensive.
Glad I could help out! I'm a big fan of DIY projects, not only in locks.
pinning the bible without pin tweezers. I use a small flat head screw driver 1/4 inch wide.
then take a spring and put the tip of the driver flat side up through the top opening of a spring. it will stay that way while you load the top holes with springs. once all the springs are loaded, lay it down make sure the springs do not fall out. then taking a piece of masking tape also 1/4 inch. wrap it around the flat tip, sticky side up. i usually leave a small piece of tape and bend it over the blade to hold it in place while i then tape it to the driver shaft. then taking a driver pin stick it to the tape it stays while i load it into the first hole facing me. that way it will go all the way down. then insert the follower from the other end and push it through to hold the pin in place. and do the same with the rest of the pins. no pin tweezers needed. easier to show then typing this .happy pinning .
Bill,
Thank you very much, I was waiting for this video, you answered many of my questions. Great job, keep up the good work. I use deep well sockets for my plug followers, come in different sizes. If you get the 3D printer revved up, send a set of followers my way 😆 thanks again "Brother" !
Exellent video very educational I learnt the hardest way I ise to make a mess every thing everywhere this video will help people like me who didnt have a clue but still decided to go ahead thnks for sharing :))
Great video. Just repinned my first core... And holy crap, it works.👍👍👍👍👍
Two bucks, at the Dollar store...haha Thats like telling someone Penny for your thought, but I want a nickel change back...
AND THANK YOU! Because I have struggled with trying to figure that process out.
Oh, ( tongue in cheek) Nice to put a Face, to the voice that has inspired so many....
This video deserves more likes. Thanks Bill!
excellent! I needed to see this yesterday before I reassembled a lock the hard way!
Everything I was looking for in a tutorial. Thank you!!
Damn. Fantastic instructional video. Reboot for new subscribers at some point? Another collab with LPL would be awesome as well. Thanks for what you do, Bill.
Newbie here who made a newbie mistake. I didn't know what T pins were used for. But when at 9:34 I saw Bill choosing a T-pin as a security pin, I though hey great idea. So installed one in an ABUS 300 series S2 core (Schlage C 6-pin) I was repining. I installed it with the narrower end down in pin #3 or #4 (can't remember). And then when I rotated the core it locked itself. By examine another identical core I've noticed there is a small dimple parallel to the six pinning holes, it's located right next to hole #3 or hole #4. It has the exact diameter ans depth of the narrow end of T-pin. By rotating the core the T-pin narrower end dropped in that dimple (hole) and the core was locked. I'm guessing the core is done and there's nothing I can do, right? And if I want to retrieve the key I'm gonna have to drill the core by the top so I can extract that T-pin and it's spring.
By the way, what's the main purpose of top T pins and what is the purpose of that damn small dimple in the core??? Thank you!
Hello, Bosnianbill: Taking off and replacing the rear C fastening ring seems difficult for me. If there's a right way, I don't know it. I'm in the UK, I don't know yet where to purchase a lock-pin-set. I'll keep looking. I will do this - in time. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Dang that will be fun to pick. Good job Bill.
Sweet, I was wondering how you guys did it! Thank you Bill!
I learned it the hard way. Wish I had seen this video first.
Have you ever used a clear follower and/or the ones that had a V groove on the end of the follower? Seems like ambient light would transmit thru it and provide light inside the body.
Also, with using different springs, I havent been able to distinguish much difference in some of the ones I have. Yeah, still a newbie. I mixed ASSA springs with Kwikset in an ASSA 600, with security pins and couldnt tell any difference. Does the difference in springs come into play mainly when for instance, working with false sets with spools that make the spools slip back down more easily if it has a stronger spring behind it?
Looks like a monster of a setup. Too bad I didnt pick it before you sent it away.
Just a note for thoes intrested, there are pinning charts for most common manufactures of locks that can cut out your guess work. They will provide the .000# that is related to the cut on the key. Heres a link.
www.goulian.com/lockkill/page1/files/pin%20chart.pdf
That is a great chart. I also refer to this site a lot:
www.locksafesystems.com/depth_and_space.htm
***** lots of info here!
I was working on some Yales, using OEM keys and the chart on my pin kit but ended up having to use different size pins to make it all work.
***** Yea that happens sometimes, no matter how many times you check yourself and the pins your using You end up using one pin .005 up or down to make it all work. That's the beauty of it all.
***** No problem. Jeff's link has great info as well.
7:40
Skyrim actually taught me that
Very clearly demonstration. Love it. Thanks.
Those tweezers work well for holding the cathair :-D
Og is a god !! lol bro is a legend for making these clips !!
good retirement man, thanks for all the knowledge!
tu eres el rey de las cerraduras dios mio
Man you good. :D I'm gonna buy that set and increase my house security :)
I start with a ball bearing and use security top pins in the bottom.
Measure the diameter of the plug, and subtract the depth of the cut. This is your pin length. Some locks may very a bit if the key does not ride on the inside of the cylinder but it will be really close.
2:40 These are not surgical tweezers, these are anatomical tweezers.
Surgical tweezes have 3 pins at the end to cause less tissue damage during surgery, a small prick heals faster then a piece of crushed tissue.
Anatomical tweezes were originally used in autopsies but are now mostly used to hold other things needed in procedures like cotton swabs.
The name difference is important if someone wanted to order them, you cant file surgical tweezers down to a usable tool.
Zero bitted refers to the lock being pinned up to a blank key. So all they key pins are 0 cut, or the smallest cut for that lock manufacturer
I was wondering about putting an extra pin in the 6th. A local locksmith advised against it stating that a copy may not be as long. I'm with you though!
goocherrific That risk is great for challenge locks, really annoying for real locks where legit key copying may be needed after a few years.
"2 dollars in the dollar store." I chuckled a bit at that.
damn cat hair makes me laugh every time
Thanks a lot for this video. You saved me big time!!
I'd love to give that lock a try... and hope I'd get past that 4th pin.
Actually zero bitting Has top Springs,drivers and the key pins the conical key pins are zero and comes with a key blank that will engage the zero pins to turn the plug in the cylinder meaning this lock is partially assembled kind of like a Medeco sub assembled cylinder
Thanks so much for making this vid! I wondered for so long how you got all those tiny pins back in there after picking!
I opened a schalge lock once and it was just packed with those wafer pins everywhere; why are they used? There were also these pins where one would have a peg sticking out of it and the one right next to it in the same side of the chamber would have a hole in it where the peg would fit; this kind of security pin I have never seen in your videos, nor have I ever seen a schalge lock. Have you ever seen this?
Your videos are always a pleasure to watch.
You're a great teacher, thank you! 😉👍
Such a clear explanation. Great stuff, Bill.
Thanks for another great video. Id be very interested in getting a link to a pinning kit such as your using in this video, wafer style not needed though.... cant remember the last time I saw a wafer mech lock anyway. Seems the kit you have has followers included, thats a bonus in my eyes. any link advice would be great.
when i got it picked, i just ditched the key i was trying to impression, because i can now pin it to fit a key i already have,,, no need to impression/make one for it.