I customized my motorbike with 3D PRINTS. Why?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2023
- #ad Get the #Anycubic Photon Mono M5s with the 12K resolution from here: geni.us/uXqq
In this video I show how the 3D printed system I designed a while back can be used for unusual things, like functional parts for an old café racer. I think that it is nice as a concept, but it needs to be improved further before I'm going to share it.
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My initial thoughts were: "Let's do a quick and fun build with this system." Right from that moment I should've known that this wasn't a two week project. Oh well, it works. And although this system needs to be improved further, I think that it's a fun concept which can be turned into a 3D printer ;) Thanks to anyone who suggested to tighten it from the center, this sparked the idea for using the twisted fiber!
Impresionante trabajo, en todo sentido. Cuánto talento!!! ya sea en diseño, como en la producción artística de video. Gracias!!
Impressive work, in every way. How much talent!!! either in design, as in the artistic production of video. Thank you!!
You should try metal casting these parts instead of using plastic. Or making your own injection mold so you can mix fibers into the plastic.
Aramid fibers break down with exposure to UV. Having them exposed isn’t advisable.
Aramid fibers break down with exposure to UV. Having them exposed isn’t advisable.
2:58 that pause....😂
yeah i thought this was going a different direction
I am extremely impressed by the quality of the film making here ❤❤❤ wow. Very awesome video man. This is ART!! And you are a true artist
Thank you!!
@Proper Printing sorry I was talking to vez. He condones the force-feeding of geese, skips leg day and is a copy cat. Haha
@@jstro-hobbytech copy cat? Please explain
@Vez3D he might be talking about the slice thing - I'd ignore it dude.
..He Makes neat physical Objects as well..🤙🏻
Aramid fibre is said to substantially degrade with UV exposure. While the outer fibres will protect the inner ones to some degree (and the beam structure as well as the stuff around will partially shade the fibre strand), you might still want to consider putting the fibre strand in a sleeve or something.
The mechanical properties also decrease a lot when subjected to moisture.
just switch to dyneema. Only thing that can't handle is high temps
I was thinking wetting the fibers with a low viscosity resin or even CA glue with some sort of UV blocking tint would be a good way to protect them from the environmental degradation.
the brass tube is work hardened. Anneal the brass tubes before bending, you will be AMAZED how much easier it will be.
Never thought of that, thanks for the tip!
great stuff . the diamond was my first thought😀😀😀😀😀😀. I wish CAN, 3D printing and some other tools and equipment were available when I was building Trikes nd bikes. I enquired about standard pipes for an old Z750 and they said £650, I said oh not too bad, they then said a side. It didnt stay standard
Your going to need a UV protective clear coat for those indicator covers. The resin will over cure and they will become extremely brittle to the point of crumbling with the slightest bump. A nice gloss finish would also look really nice and make them more transparent if that's a look you'd want.
personally when I tried bending brass tubes to make a pop-pop boat, I filled my 4mm (ext diamaterer) whith very thin sand (goes through a .5mm mesh), capped one the ends with desktop tape, put the sand into the tube with a piece of paper rolled into a cone to make a funnel, and capped the other end with tape.
The (two) tubes bended really nicely (
Nice work, I design and print lots of parts and upgrades like this, Just an FIY on nylon carbon fibre, and similar as this is all I print, dry it at 90° C for at least 8hrs, the longer the better, and print from a dry box that can maintain 85° C, I wont print it until its below 10% humidity, no fan while printing, and use a heated chamber for even stronger prints, also recommend PAHT-CF's for better stiffness, but for eBikes, motorbikes and other fast moving vehicles I use normal PA-CF as it becomes very flexible after it rehydrates, making it very durable for knocks and impacts, also I line all clamps and interfaces with a gasket printed from TPU, excellent for removing vibration, you can vary the infill and pattern to give it more softness, depending on the need.
This is so true. Nylon absolutely has to be dry but when it is it prints incredibly. We use Essentium's HTN-CF25 at work for fixtures that we'd otherwise need to have milled from aluminum, it's really incredible stuff but I'll give it a night in an environmental chamber at 130C and
When I inevitably move to the Netherlands, I want a shed that looks like that. It makes an amazing filming background in addition to being a cool shed to make stuff.
Looks great man! I wish there were more people modding bikes with 3d printing. Bikes want to be customized... And 3d printing is a natural fit for that, i think.
The only honest channels are the ones where nothing goes to plan. Good job! 👍
Nothing cooler than designing a part for different application and using it elsewhere as well as the use of mixed materials.
Outdoor office is
I do like how the aesthetics of the tail lights in particular came across. I don't know, but I think the pre-tensioning functionality here might be the most interesting thing about this. Could have applications for, say, 3D printed aircraft. NO, NOT THAT YOU FLY IN---the smaller, more autonomous sort. Some sort of testing of load bearing and deflection/rigidity would be interesting. Suppose you used your pre-tensioned strut to span various distances, and measured things like rigidity vs deflection vs elasticity and vibration dampening vs resonance? Btw, as you have found out first-hand, CF nylon doesn't shrink as much as regular nylon, but it does shrink enough that you sometimes have to oversize your prints to account for it. Love your work!
I don't know how you do it, but keep on being awesome.
You make videos that are stylish (the camera angles, music, backdrops), you cover/explain a wide range of engineering topics, you have pragmatic solutions.
The right amount of self criticism, great jokes (Magic Mouse, the 'plug' etc). This channel deserves a spot in to the top of the 3d printing channels.
Perhaps you can do a collab to increase your visibility.
looking at the parts laid out like that made me* think that this would be an awesome system for a VR gunstock and/or VR accessories @2:29 could even allow for sliding grips for lets say pump action for example.
I‘ve been working in the Automotive Industry in the Design-Technic-Convergence-Segment and I can absolutely confirm the habit you presented concerning Deigners, we used to say: An engineer has ha problem when the designer says „I have an Idea“ 🤣
That's a good one😆
Jon, always interesting to watch your projects, I know they will have over engineered failures that are corrected and finally you succeed.
Awesome video and awesome motorcycle Jon !
Thanks Joel!
I love your style, design your editing you a great inspiration for me ❤️
Zo mooi om te zien hoe 3D printen zichzelf op het level van houtbewerking en metaalbewerking heeft gehezen. Met dat trio kan je alles.
Great design and Thanks for the tour 😀
Man that patron wall is filling up! Great video as always.
Wow that looks so good it makes me also want to make a mount like this for my front blinkers
2:57 ahhh it was an handle !
Fantastic job all around, the prints are functional, the videography is fantastic and the end result looks great!!!
The Mac mouse explanation of design over form. Hilarious. Love your videos.
Great design and build. You always seem to come up with unique challenging projects! Great soundtrack and beautiful cafe racer!😎
Gotta love percussive maintenance, AKA hit it with a hammer. Ha ha. Great job and keep up the great ideas.
these profiles looks like a great way to build a desk lamp I dreamt of for sooo long ;)
yes please!
Great video again, pleasure to watch! 🙌
Thanks! And also thanks for the material, this stuff is awesome!
So GREAT to see you BACK!!!!!
Really like the style of the vid! Very good job man!!
Towards the end of this video, I found myself thinking: He's going to build an electric bike that is ENTIRELY 3D PRINTED!!!!!
your Successes and Failures are Inspiring. Keep it up!
That tension mechanism is simply genius!
Thanks Robert!
Great video and impressive bike, great to see someone do a video where they show mistakes and how they correct them a true example of if at first you don't succeed try again 🤘
Always love your content! Keep em coming!
Quality stuff yet again man, so impressive! I wish I had such a shed in the Netherlands, I should move again. :)
What a cool bike, it looks so good on you!
Indicators come mounted on flexible stalks. These look kinda cool but practically will break first touch or drop.
Cool stuff, really looking forward for more content
Really love this project:
i'm actually investigating on printing parts for my Suzuki Bandit N ABS:
Disc brake lock holder and sadle-bag holder
Was wondering if you would get anything useful from your last video, happy to se that you as usual figured something out👍
Nice job I am doing a street legal conversion for my dirtbike right now and have designed and printed the gauge mount and battery holder.
Hi John,
even if I haven't seen the video yet.
Good work! Always enjoying your work.
you should have covered the back of the front blinkers (just a small portion to keep it from shining right in your eyes at night), maybe with some black spraypaint or something.
Dude, awesome! I SO want a cargo frame backpack made from these beams 😃
Cool design, great editing as usual, loved the design meeting scene. Had a feeling those curved sections weren't going to work out too well in the end, but glad to see the problem get solved.
ive gotten some great results tinting clear/transparent resin prints with alcohol based inks, even just ripping the core out of a sharpie marker and squeezing it into some isopro works very well
Thanks for the tip!
Always enjoyment watching these video's.
Very cool. I might look as making mods for my ebike
13:40 "this meant a lot of filing" - no kidding, those are literal dust piles o_o
Love it. Nice to see you live in the neighbourhood.
Nice projects!
I would like to suggest you increase the tolerances for these parts; I'd expect it will help you put all parts together more easily.
Working hours a file insert and the diamond attachment after dark? hahah keep it up! love your videos!
17:56 tube cutter tool usage check...passed. as an instrument fitter, that's all I have to contribute.
Been waiting for a new video!
13:10 in bike frame hydroforming they have 3 or 4 moulds so they don’t do from tube to final shape in one go. as so maybe do 2 or 3 dies to form the brass. I assume your die over bends the rod to account for spring back?
On the filling aspect could you make a jig that holds a heated rod then put it in an arbor press. You place your part in mount and drop the rod down to melt the perfect shape into the thermoplastic - might be quicker than filing each one
Also when you anneal perhaps you could thread each part onto a ride so that it limits contraction to the rod length axis. And keeps the shaft hole smooth?
3:03 gold!!! 🤣🤣🤣
I love how Anycubic is claiming speeds almost 3x faster than Prusa but selling the printer for half a grand instead of two grand. Absolutely insane. Even if the speeds are equivalent... you could literally buy three Photo Mono M5s units and have a print farm while still having a few hundred left over for resin and such. Literally three times the printing speed at that point!! Love it!
The world would not turn without the 3D Spacemouse. Love it❤
Can't do without anymore!
The curved pipeline assembly (especialy with multi-pipe) need a huge amount of work of precise hammering.
It's nice but for people who dont count hours ^^'
This frame design become more and more interesting 😁👌
This looks awesome and I love your construction. As UV light is the Achilles heel of aramid you might want to put a sheath around it. Although it hurts the aesthetics.
Love it. The apple sketch was great 😂😅
Bahahaha mount a... "diamond" that just broke me 🤣.
i also 3d printed a part for my gastank packpack to angle it more since i switched bikes last year. I printed it in tpu so it won't crack if there is tension.
I love your videos
What about using a brass H-beam instead of brass tubing? That should increase mechanical resistance to bending. It would need capped end-plates but that shouldn't be an issue with how you are using aramid fibres to hold everything together. I use the h-beams when I design linear actuators for structural integrity and "lower friction"- linear glide rails with (resin-) printed parts.
The system is very cool. Altho for such a beautiful bike you should just went with the original look for turn signal bulbs :)
The curve where beautifull, but without a pipe bender, you where definitely shooting yourself in the foot.
12:15 you could have made large molds like for hydraulic press to get exactly the shape you want ... Then again, at that point you need to know % to go over to get the desired shape once pressure/tension on brass is removed...
Aww crap, i did the same thing you did :D
Eindelijk weer een video. Top video weer.
Good video and your honest takes are fun. Just like to comment that aramid fibres lose strength with exposure to sunlight and need to be covered or contained in something that prevents sunlight exposure to retain strength.
Just saw this has been mentioned previously.
Nice Movie you made out here ;-) Very nice!
I sure wish I had an old shed.
Love the aesthetic!
Is filing cf nylon without a mask or clean area safe? Always heard it was really nasty stuff
Generally a bad idea to sand anything without a mask, carbon fiber in particular.
Echt prachtig gemaakt, proficiat !
Dankje!
I'm impressed is all I can say.
Your uploads always make my day!! Just a question, doesn't CF filament obliterate the thin copper insert of the cht nozzles?
Awesome! No idea, but I went with the CHT nozzle because of the good thermal conductance that improves layer adhesion. Chances are that this nozzle needs to be replaced soon.
@@properprinting Fiber filled filaments have disappointed me for this exact reason. Even when I print them really slow, the layer adhesion is sub par without annealing. PCTG and PC blend ended up being my preferred filaments for projects that experience loads.
The Apple design meeting ignoring the charging port on the magic mouse was entertaining, I'm sure all of us engineers got flashbacks of their sales team overlooking the extra work engineering will put into it.
with stuff like bending tubes you actlay need to over bend them casue some of that deforamtion is elastic and it wont be the exact dimention as your die
6:52 een waterpomptang kan je voor alles gebruiken.
Could you share what oven you bought and the temp/time/process you went through to anneal the pa-cf? It's a material and process I've been looking to experiment with myself.
I annealed it at 120 degrees for two hours. I haven't tested the actual performance though and these numbers is what I could find. It will also differ between materials, most Nylon out there is PA12-based while the Luvocom material is PA6 which is stiffer.
“If you can’t make it accurate enough, make it adjustable” that should go on a tile / Dat moet op een tegeltje 😎 #tegeltjeswijsheid
Ohhhhh, please do the bike wheels too!
Somehow i didn’t get notified. Glad I looked specifically for a new PP Video.
Amazing work. Did you had an idea on how to pretension correctly the curved part?
Thanks! And a good question. The plan was to just try it and see how it reacts. I probably would've ended up using a piece of PTFE tube, but I'm glad I ditched this idea.
I'm tired... Just from watching 😅😂
Ended up a very cool project. 😉
Wait, you actually ride? This is the best day
That Nylon CF Tensile is 130 MPA. That is insane. Peek's Tensile is 130 MPA... Peek CF is 200 MPA
ROFL! The oven has a spool drying function 🤣
chainsaw file, butt plug combo. ingenious!!! youve done it again!
Kevlar without protection is quite problematic if exposed to sunlight. It will loose its strength. 6:30
It does indeed, but I don't stress them that much. Hopefully it doesn't become problematic, but time will tell.
I think the indicators could have been better with amber LEDs and clear resin prints. My motorbike has LED indicators with clear housing, so it certainly can be done.
I think that they would perform better indeed. I chose orange because of the looks, but maybe I'll reprint them so they're a bit brighter.
@@properprinting I mean, it isn't like it makes a huge difference in power draw from the electrics, and the fact you can ride a registered motorcycle there without indicators in the first place (I'm not sure if I can, I don't think I can in the UK), means that it's immediately safer for you to have them. But I've noticed, especially at night, it can be difficult to see the colour of an indicator using a white bulb through amber in the past. The flashing always gives it away, but that could mean during daylight it'll be much more difficult to even see it flashing too.
Nice bike .
I make cafe racer my old suzuki ts100n
100cc 2stroke.
Does the fibre remain attached, or is it removed after the tightening process?
it needs to remain for it to provide the tension. as for why tension, it makes the whole thing stronger/more rigid.
Love your content! If you cut the volume of background music, it would be much more enjoyable to hear YOU instead!
Thanks, and thanks for the feedback! Next time I'll turn it down a notch ;)
Nice and fun as usual ! why not use nylon resin ?
Thanks! This was faster to make and I think will endure better over time compared to resin.