Can’t wait to see that Baja pro X video! Those tires look like they can eat! I just hope you throw some different foams in for comparison, see what they can really do! Let’s be honest, stock foams usually only give maybe 80% of the tires potential, and I hear they’re particularly important in the bajas
What i did with mine was peel up the foam in the battery tray and glue it back down in the back, shifts the weight of the battery forward and it gave me a little extra steering. I also have some extra foam to stuff a shorty pack in the front for even less weight! Oh, the weakest part of the chassis is the narrow part right in front of the servo...ask me how i know lol.
Watching the video I cringed HARD when you started talking about cutting bits of the chassis away… but then I remembered the way I used to drill out RC10 chassis back in the 90’s when they were all aluminum tub chassis… I swear they’d look like Swiss cheese!
I took some inspiration from this vid but went a slightly different route. I went with a shorty pack and took the foam out up front and moved the esc and receiver (out of the cover) in the middle to keep the weight centered and low. Upped to a 23 pinion, rebuilt shocks with traxxas seals and 32.5k in front, removed servo saver, and put 7k diff fluid. Ran proline holeshots at chickasaw track. I think the truck did ok... I'm terrible but the truck did ok lol.
That is very interesting - I have literally never heard of someone breaking them. Where are you breaking them? Back on the diff side, or out by the wheel? I adjusted my rear camber - which does allow my driveshaft to pop-out of the diff cups occasionally. I wonder if yours is getting wedged and that is why it is breaking? With these steel shafts, breakage shouldn't be an issue. I would check into what is causing the breakage.
@RoadsideRC that's the same thing that I thought as far as it getting wedged. But I've also broke one closer to the carrier as well. So I've broken 3 by the out drive and 1 by the carrier so far. I just would like a stronger option. Is the Dr10 upgraded drive shafts compatible? I found some steel ones on eBay
Hey so totally unrelated question based on the topic of the video but … how is that building set up to ventilate nitro cars or is it an issue? With a full race going what’s the noise level like?
hey troy,love your channel man,but it seems like you have more fun saving a tenth of a gram at a time or drifting,kind miss you reviewing cheap chinese and finding gems or like when your chasing down buggies in a real car for speed runs!still love ya man. but im just sayin
Thanks for the feedback! Two cheaper RC options are sitting on the workbench right now - more of that to come! Yes, the speed runs shenanigans was fun, but didn't really end up being what excited me the most.
great idea to reduce the weight mate looked quite a bit of work to do
*full view🖥💯Au👍thumbs up*
It sure was - but the results were worth it.
Can’t wait to see that Baja pro X video! Those tires look like they can eat! I just hope you throw some different foams in for comparison, see what they can really do! Let’s be honest, stock foams usually only give maybe 80% of the tires potential, and I hear they’re particularly important in the bajas
Video will be out soon!
Great video Troy
Thanks 👍
I did Cringed not gonna lie but gotta say looks really good! I'm sure it handles differently for sure. Keep on tweaking, looking forward for more!
Ha! Yes - went a little far perhaps...but it worked!
Thanks for the vid, yeah love how parts fit between the DR10 and even the RB10, the V2 shocks make for a good shock upgrade
Good point on the shocks. Thanks!
Awesome video and Rc brother
Have a good one and stay safe
👍🥶👍
Thanks, you too!
What i did with mine was peel up the foam in the battery tray and glue it back down in the back, shifts the weight of the battery forward and it gave me a little extra steering. I also have some extra foam to stuff a shorty pack in the front for even less weight! Oh, the weakest part of the chassis is the narrow part right in front of the servo...ask me how i know lol.
Thanks for the tips!
Watching the video I cringed HARD when you started talking about cutting bits of the chassis away… but then I remembered the way I used to drill out RC10 chassis back in the 90’s when they were all aluminum tub chassis… I swear they’d look like Swiss cheese!
You are right!
The fact that a whole new chassis is really cheap - helped make me brave.
i had a dr10 with a full carbon chassis for the drags. expensive tho but an option
Nice! The drag chassis are typically flat with no front kick-up for suspension. Did your's have that?
I took some inspiration from this vid but went a slightly different route. I went with a shorty pack and took the foam out up front and moved the esc and receiver (out of the cover) in the middle to keep the weight centered and low. Upped to a 23 pinion, rebuilt shocks with traxxas seals and 32.5k in front, removed servo saver, and put 7k diff fluid. Ran proline holeshots at chickasaw track. I think the truck did ok... I'm terrible but the truck did ok lol.
Great! Hope I'll see you out there at Chicasaw someday!
Still a great time no matter where you finish though, am I right?? :)
We had one of our local no prep racers do this his chassis said I’m gonna snap with a curb I know different style of racing but might work
Interesting - thanks!
How's the weight distribution now? Isn't it terribly heavy in the back?
It did not change it enough to have an issue.
Do you have any suggestions as to what driveshaft upgrades are available for the this truck? I keep sheering mine right off. Thanks
That is very interesting - I have literally never heard of someone breaking them.
Where are you breaking them? Back on the diff side, or out by the wheel?
I adjusted my rear camber - which does allow my driveshaft to pop-out of the diff cups occasionally. I wonder if yours is getting wedged and that is why it is breaking?
With these steel shafts, breakage shouldn't be an issue. I would check into what is causing the breakage.
@RoadsideRC that's the same thing that I thought as far as it getting wedged. But I've also broke one closer to the carrier as well. So I've broken 3 by the out drive and 1 by the carrier so far. I just would like a stronger option. Is the Dr10 upgraded drive shafts compatible? I found some steel ones on eBay
Hey so totally unrelated question based on the topic of the video but … how is that building set up to ventilate nitro cars or is it an issue? With a full race going what’s the noise level like?
It has big doors open on the end + open windows.
Even with a full class of nitro running, never really noticed a fume build up or issue.
@@RoadsideRC thank you!
Shock towers look like they are the same as a RC 10 GT
They might be!
I kept up with you until you cut the holes in the body, all the other stuff kinda makes sense though 😄
Ha! Went a little far there huh??? Maybe you are right!
@@RoadsideRC Well at least you won't have any heat issues now!
hey troy,love your channel man,but it seems like you have more fun saving a tenth of a gram at a time or drifting,kind miss you reviewing cheap chinese and finding gems or like when your chasing down buggies in a real car for speed runs!still love ya man. but im just sayin
Thanks for the feedback!
Two cheaper RC options are sitting on the workbench right now - more of that to come!
Yes, the speed runs shenanigans was fun, but didn't really end up being what excited me the most.