I have been trying for 2 days to get a KERF setting for my new 40W laser - trying all the techniques on so many websites only to get totally frustrated because nothing changed. Your video made so much sense and within a few setting attempts, I was able to get a solid KERF for the 3 mm baltic birch I am using and a solid KERF for some Cast Acrylic I was trying out. Thank you so much for your videos - they are priceless!
4:00 I appreciate this video just for this. All those other guys who do quick demo cuts or engravings right in the middle of a fresh piece of wood drive me crazy.
Dividing the found kerf by two is because the beam is following the given cut line, where half the kerf is inside your work piece and the other half outside. So the found number is the real kerf's diameter. Manufacturers claim values of 0.05 to 0.08mm, but is only valid by shalow engraving and perfect focus
I was excited when I found this feature last year when I was making Christmas ornaments and designing and cutting out my own boxes. It shows the folks at LightBurn are making the best software possible.
"these are the mistakes you get when it's live time"....nope, same mistakes, just everybody gets to see, LOL. In all honesty, I'm glad you guys that have vast experience post stuff like that and not edit it out because I do so much dumb crap on projects I often wonder if I should be handling tools alone....haha. Thanks again for all your videos, super helpful.
Dear Rich. I've just upgraded my Sculpfun S9 from 10W to the Ultra 20w. This change really confronted me with the need to learn about Kerf Compensation. I find this video of yours ,as usual, very clear and helpful. Many thanks. I noticed the "tabs / Bridges" section on the Cut Setting Editor. Have you made a video on this subject? I'd like to learn. Thanks again. Best regards, Emanuel.
Just wanna say thank you. Your videos have helped me get my laser closer to dialed in for the project I'm working on. I'm trying to remove a single layer of paint and leave the white layer below it in tact to make a custom set of buttons for my car out of clear resin. The factory ones are red and I need clear for a lighting project.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'm getting very promising results. Been practicing on clear plastic spoons. 5w laser. So far the best looking one was 3 cuts. First: 2200 mm/min 10% Fill in X direction. Second: 2500 mm/min 5% Fill in Y direction. Third: 2200 mm/min 10% Line. Takes off airbrushed grey Duplicolor Vinyl and fabric paint. Leaves white of the same type of paint. Looks grey and white from the top for daytime visibility but lets light through the artwork when held up to the light. If you look at the back of the spoon not up to light it looks totally white with no graphic. Exactly what I need for my RGBW to show through. There is a short video of a button I made during testing on my uploads if you're curious. I hand scraped the design with a poker because I was anxious to see a preview so that looks bad. I don't have any videos of the laser results up yet, but they will be coming. I have a friend that does sourcing for an airplane manufacturer and she said the spoons look better than one of the vendors she's been dealing with lately so that's a good sign. I set up an old 720p camera too and that is certainly a game changer for efficiency and accuracy. When I first got it I was messing up the focus at first and didn't think it would accomplish what I needed because the beam was too big. Then I realized I was putting the focus spacer in the wrong spot. I put it in the right spot and saw the correct size of the beam. That is when I realized it may be capable after all. Then I found your videos while trying to add limit switches which was more confusing than it should have been. The board in mine is a Makerbase MKS LTS V1.1 and the manufacturer is using the Z and Y limit switch sockets for an accelerometer. I had to flash the firmware and use the probe socket for the Y limit switch. I had to figure that out without help from the manufacturer due to weekend and slow response time. Then the instruction video they sent me had a different board so that was of no help.
Thank you for this video. I just recently posted a question about this in the Lightburn forum. I learn more and more from the videos and forums, including you forum. Thank you again. God Bless, Jeffrey.
Great video. Theses types of simple, practical videos you have made have really inproved my laser work. Skill building with overwhelming the process or learner. Thanks again.
Great explanation on that kerf setting. I'm still new at the laser and using a low power diode laser to get jobs done but the goal is to step up as the work steps up and this sort of thing is great information! Now to go back and watch all your other videos!
I find it helpful to mark my stock with the cut settings after testing. (I have only one machine). Wood may change a little but acrylic seems pretty stable. Then I don't have to find my note telling my what worked well. It's on the material.
Just starting my laser adventures and have watched most of your videos. The information and instructions you provide are greatly helping me understand how everything works. Just one question about this video. Lightburn only has one kerf adjustment. Does it make much difference if the laser shape is a rectangle where one direction would cut off more than the other?
Thanks for another great informative video. Working with clock inlays, this is really helpful, it takes a minute to learn the different results from the different substrates that I use. I really like the note tip you use in lightburn. I remember you talked about that in one of your previous videos, I need to get into the habit of entering into lightburn instead of writing it into my book. Fantastic job as always. Thanks
It would be better if you could show what "poly styrene foam" is,, because I am also following your video guidance on what "not" to engrave with laser. That video says to not to engrave on many thick plastic objects that release chlorine and damaging the diode laser.
The foam I use is laser safe Tom, however I always have the exhaust on. My rule is if you can smell it, it's bad for you, no matter what material you use.
Hey Rich, im mowing down these projects from beginning to end 😅. Im now here at this video. Where do you get your all your standard and specialty acylics from? Im looking to get specific colors and not a variety pack quite yet and thats all im seeing.
Just to not waste the other material, i would have burned the outer in yellow too, then got would have 2 peace signs, one yellow with black innards and one black with yellow innnards
you've helped a lot. Where can I find information to cut down the Travel? I'm doing an image and the laser goes across the entire piece of wood, even with 80% not burning, it still travels the entire width
I think I cover that in my Lightburn 101 video. Check your optimization settings on the laser tab. Also check your white space scanning at set it to the highest speed your laser can travel.
If I set the kerf indicator ( -0.550 ) so that the pieces go together at all, then the opening is already about 1-2mm too large. How could it be that the connections were the right size for both height and width, and the connections were accurate?
Great video, thanks for the info! Do you have a method for cutting fingers when making boxes? Do you half the kirf for all, or do you apply compensation to just one side of each joint?
I did a heart on the MK2 kerf was great but the cuts did not come out right on 10w or 30w i was useing red sheet and a white sheet do you have any tips? or is CO2 the way to go.
Great stuff. I am very new to laser engraving and just bought an Atomstack X20. I am impressed with the use of your camera on the laser. It seems to make placement of your material so easy and accurate. Is this feature in LightBurn only for CO2 lasers (maybe only your model)? Have you seen this done with diodes?
Didn't realize that different width materials affected kerf offset as I had a wtf moment this morning. Lesson learned - different thicknesses mean different offsets. But I had another observation I wanted to ask you. Does power/speed affect offsets as well? In other words, if you are cutting with excessive power/speed you will "vaporize" more material thus, affecting the kerf offset, right? So I'm thinking before performing the kerf offset grid test for a particular material it would be best to zero in on the optimum power/speed first. Thoughts? Thanks, as always.
Appreciate the instruction but how does one accurately determine the kerf size for inlays on their laser without trying to measure with calibers? Do you have a video on this that I have missed?
@@1-Nice-Guy you are correct. I fully understand concept of kerf based on years of CNC work where it is easy to calculate because you know the size of your bit. But figuring it out for the laser with different materials and how they burn is a bit more challenging. the only way I can think of doing it is a set of test methods on material as Rich suggested. But he didn't provide a test like he has with his universal test cards, etc. I am not saying he hasn't supplied one to us, but if he did I missed it and would like some help finding his method.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks Rich I saw this one when you did it and previously gave it a like. The problem it requires me to make an accurate measurement with my calipers and I am totally deficient at getting within the thousandths using my caliber. I usually need a method using practice cuts. So I think I discovered a method and started using it today. We will see if it works consistently. Like you often say it requires me to use additional material of what I am working with. Thanks for all your help and taking the time to reply.
hi there rich as you know i am a avid follower of your teaching videos i have followed the first video of the 20 cuts and come up with 3.90mm i divided that by 20 which gives me 0.195 then divided by 2 =0.0975 which i put in my kerf offset but when i cut out the pieces in this video they are loose still but if i put the kerf to 0.195 they fit like they should shown in your video so it has confused me a bit. can you help out and try and make me understand what i am doing wrong ??? hope i have explained it ok thanks Gary
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy yeah i did that now works great sometimes might have to adjust it up or down a little but got the idea now thanks was going to email you today to say by 10 thanks for the reply happy new year
Hi Rich, Ken Tucker, I tried making your piece earrings. i tried the kurf at .015 the pieces fell through, what can i be doing wrong, i used black and yellow both are of the same manufacturer. please any advise is most appreciated. Thank you ken...
I'll add another comment that simply is in line with the hundreds of others who have the same impression after watching your videos... WELL DONE!! HIGH FIVES!
So let me be the idiot to ask....How do you cut the puzzle pieces to fit better or is that all about the laser being properly focused (or unfocused I guess to make the cut line wider)? Great video man! I always love learning more and more. Now to try this on an inlay with 1500 separate pieces in different colors :)
You don't. Adjusting the kerf offset basically adjusts the size of the image by offsetting the laser beam. For a puzzle, you get what you based on your beam size.
So, the fact you cut the inside in black just means you can make a second earring with a black interior and yellow exterior -- then it looks like you did it on purpose. 😉 One question, you applied kerf to only one part, seems like by applying the kerf to both parts (1/2 the amount to one, 1/2 the amount to the other), you will get a better fit since in reality, both pieces are affected by the kerf equally and the real kerf width is 1/2 the total you applied to the insert pieces. The piece with the inner cut should cut to the outside of the line by the kerf width, the pieces you are cutting with outside cuts should cut to the outside of those lines by the kerf width so that both pieces are being cut to the original lines. Makes total sense that kerf changes with changes in conditions and material. The materials we are using, especially the woods, were never intended to be worked down to 1/1000's of an inch. Wood moves with humidity changes, more in the cross-grain direction than along the grain. When doing furniture work, one always allows for wood movement in the finished piece so it doesn't break the final piece apart during seasonal changes in the environment in which the piece is placed. That movement is significantly more than a few thousandths; one usually allows on the order of 1/32 or more for movement cross-grain. It's cool that we can do this kind of precision with lasers, but your advice that testing is always needed makes total sense. Good news is that manufactured materials like plywood are more stable because they are manufactured with the grain between layers being laid perpendicular to one another. They are still going to move and the adhesive properties between batches are likely to change.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's a link to the foam boards I was using: amzn.to/3gpveBJ
Thank you so much!
Oh ok thank you
Hey, thanks buddy. You remind of my dad. Always making light out of a situation 😅
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thank you Rich for your time and encouragement into the next video😊
My pleasure Ray!
I have been trying for 2 days to get a KERF setting for my new 40W laser - trying all the techniques on so many websites only to get totally frustrated because nothing changed. Your video made so much sense and within a few setting attempts, I was able to get a solid KERF for the 3 mm baltic birch I am using and a solid KERF for some Cast Acrylic I was trying out. Thank you so much for your videos - they are priceless!
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
4:00 I appreciate this video just for this. All those other guys who do quick demo cuts or engravings right in the middle of a fresh piece of wood drive me crazy.
Waste not, want not! 🤪
Dividing the found kerf by two is because the beam is following the given cut line, where half the kerf is inside your work piece and the other half outside. So the found number is the real kerf's diameter.
Manufacturers claim values of 0.05 to 0.08mm, but is only valid by shalow engraving and perfect focus
Thanks for the comment!
I was excited when I found this feature last year when I was making Christmas ornaments and designing and cutting out my own boxes. It shows the folks at LightBurn are making the best software possible.
Lightburn is awesome!
Thanks for another great informative video. I really like that you leave the mistakes in as it shows I’m not the only one suffering with old age 🤣😎👍
Mistakes are my life now Paul! 🤪
"these are the mistakes you get when it's live time"....nope, same mistakes, just everybody gets to see, LOL. In all honesty, I'm glad you guys that have vast experience post stuff like that and not edit it out because I do so much dumb crap on projects I often wonder if I should be handling tools alone....haha. Thanks again for all your videos, super helpful.
When you see anyone that does it right the first time, every time John, they're cheating!
Dear Rich. I've just upgraded my Sculpfun S9 from 10W to the Ultra 20w. This change really confronted me with the need to learn about Kerf Compensation. I find this video of yours ,as usual, very clear and helpful. Many thanks.
I noticed the "tabs / Bridges" section on the Cut Setting Editor. Have you made a video on this subject? I'd like to learn. Thanks again. Best regards, Emanuel.
No, but it's on my list!
That's a great explanation showing the kerf offset. I'm learning so much from this channel, thanks again for taking the time to make these videos.
Glad to help David, thanks for watching!
Just wanna say thank you. Your videos have helped me get my laser closer to dialed in for the project I'm working on.
I'm trying to remove a single layer of paint and leave the white layer below it in tact to make a custom set of buttons for my car out of clear resin. The factory ones are red and I need clear for a lighting project.
Running a test grid will get it dialed in.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'm getting very promising results. Been practicing on clear plastic spoons. 5w laser.
So far the best looking one was 3 cuts. First: 2200 mm/min 10% Fill in X direction.
Second: 2500 mm/min 5% Fill in Y direction.
Third: 2200 mm/min 10% Line.
Takes off airbrushed grey Duplicolor Vinyl and fabric paint. Leaves white of the same type of paint. Looks grey and white from the top for daytime visibility but lets light through the artwork when held up to the light. If you look at the back of the spoon not up to light it looks totally white with no graphic. Exactly what I need for my RGBW to show through.
There is a short video of a button I made during testing on my uploads if you're curious. I hand scraped the design with a poker because I was anxious to see a preview so that looks bad. I don't have any videos of the laser results up yet, but they will be coming.
I have a friend that does sourcing for an airplane manufacturer and she said the spoons look better than one of the vendors she's been dealing with lately so that's a good sign.
I set up an old 720p camera too and that is certainly a game changer for efficiency and accuracy.
When I first got it I was messing up the focus at first and didn't think it would accomplish what I needed because the beam was too big. Then I realized I was putting the focus spacer in the wrong spot. I put it in the right spot and saw the correct size of the beam. That is when I realized it may be capable after all. Then I found your videos while trying to add limit switches which was more confusing than it should have been. The board in mine is a Makerbase MKS LTS V1.1 and the manufacturer is using the Z and Y limit switch sockets for an accelerometer. I had to flash the firmware and use the probe socket for the Y limit switch. I had to figure that out without help from the manufacturer due to weekend and slow response time. Then the instruction video they sent me had a different board so that was of no help.
Great explanation! As a woodworker, I can see this being a great way to do inlays! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this video. I just recently posted a question about this in the Lightburn forum. I learn more and more from the videos and forums, including you forum. Thank you again. God Bless, Jeffrey.
Thanks for sharing!
I'm actually making earrings with acrylic... Now I have to try this. I've never explored Kirf. Thanks for the info.
Have fun Phillip!
Nice job. That’s a great lesson that you have shared. Thank you
Thanks Paw Paw!
Great video. Theses types of simple, practical videos you have made have really inproved my laser work. Skill building with overwhelming the process or learner. Thanks again.
Glad to help Tim, thanks for watching!
Oh wow that’s awesome to know. I make a lot of earrings and this is a game changer
Glad it helped Sandy! Thank you!
Thanks for all the helpful tips and tricks that you take the time to teach us!
My pleasure! 👍
Very nice video. I think that people could do some awesome marquetry with this idea.
I think so too Paul!
Great explanation on that kerf setting. I'm still new at the laser and using a low power diode laser to get jobs done but the goal is to step up as the work steps up and this sort of thing is great information! Now to go back and watch all your other videos!
You can do it!
A very good explanation of kerf offset. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it Garth!
I find it helpful to mark my stock with the cut settings after testing. (I have only one machine). Wood may change a little but acrylic seems pretty stable. Then I don't have to find my note telling my what worked well. It's on the material.
I mark all of my test pieces Lennie!
This is good to use if you need an internal piece to suspend and twist inside of another.
Thanks for watching!
Just starting my laser adventures and have watched most of your videos. The information and instructions you provide are greatly helping me understand how everything works. Just one question about this video. Lightburn only has one kerf adjustment. Does it make much difference if the laser shape is a rectangle where one direction would cut off more than the other?
No, it doesn't matter.
Thanks for another great informative video. Working with clock inlays, this is really helpful, it takes a minute to learn the different results from the different substrates that I use. I really like the note tip you use in lightburn. I remember you talked about that in one of your previous videos, I need to get into the habit of entering into lightburn instead of writing it into my book. Fantastic job as always. Thanks
Glad it was helpful John! Thanks!
Once again another great video Rich
Thanks Terry! 👍
Hi, love your tutorials, I've upgraded to lightburn 1.5.01 and now I can't find the kerf adjustments! Can you help please?
Double click a *LINE* layer, and you'll see the kerf offset.
I love those inlays!
Is it possible to cut colored acrylic with a diode laser? Especially golden one.
Yes! See this video: th-cam.com/video/rXdICKC4LBA/w-d-xo.html
Another interesting lesson 🙂, thank you🤝
Glad you liked it Kamil!
It would be better if you could show what "poly styrene foam" is,, because I am also following your video guidance on what "not" to engrave with laser. That video says to not to engrave on many thick plastic objects that release chlorine and damaging the diode laser.
The foam I use is laser safe Tom, however I always have the exhaust on. My rule is if you can smell it, it's bad for you, no matter what material you use.
Hey Rich, im mowing down these projects from beginning to end 😅. Im now here at this video. Where do you get your all your standard and specialty acylics from? Im looking to get specific colors and not a variety pack quite yet and thats all im seeing.
Quite a few places David. Just search cast acrylic. JP Plastics + is a good seller.
Another great video. Thank you Rich
My pleasure James!
Just to not waste the other material, i would have burned the outer in yellow too, then got would have 2 peace signs, one yellow with black innards and one black with yellow innnards
This was just for understanding kerf for the video James.
Great information! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful Mike!
How do you setup power settings? Why 50% power? Does it affect the overburn or something like that.
You run a material test Mike.
you've helped a lot. Where can I find information to cut down the Travel? I'm doing an image and the laser goes across the entire piece of wood, even with 80% not burning, it still travels the entire width
I think I cover that in my Lightburn 101 video. Check your optimization settings on the laser tab. Also check your white space scanning at set it to the highest speed your laser can travel.
I like your videos because you talk about practical topics that actually help people. You're Awesome!
Which laser is this?
Monport 80W Co2.
THANK YOU THIS WHAT IM LOOKING FOR
Glad to help Paul!
Good stuff Rich
Thanks! 👍
If I set the kerf indicator ( -0.550 ) so that the pieces go together at all, then the opening is already about 1-2mm too large. How could it be that the connections were the right size for both height and width, and the connections were accurate?
I don't know, but you saw how I did it in the video.
Great video, thanks for the info! Do you have a method for cutting fingers when making boxes? Do you half the kirf for all, or do you apply compensation to just one side of each joint?
I just go to boxes.pi!
I did a heart on the MK2 kerf was great but the cuts did not come out right on 10w or 30w i was useing red sheet and a white sheet do you have any tips? or is CO2 the way to go.
This video shows you how I did it on the LaserMATIC 10: th-cam.com/video/rXdICKC4LBA/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Great stuff. I am very new to laser engraving and just bought an Atomstack X20. I am impressed with the use of your camera on the laser. It seems to make placement of your material so easy and accurate. Is this feature in LightBurn only for CO2 lasers (maybe only your model)? Have you seen this done with diodes?
I have 3 videos on cameras. This is a homemade version on a diode: th-cam.com/video/9l0TdczaU_0/w-d-xo.html
Didn't realize that different width materials affected kerf offset as I had a wtf moment this morning. Lesson learned - different thicknesses mean different offsets. But I had another observation I wanted to ask you. Does power/speed affect offsets as well? In other words, if you are cutting with excessive power/speed you will "vaporize" more material thus, affecting the kerf offset, right? So I'm thinking before performing the kerf offset grid test for a particular material it would be best to zero in on the optimum power/speed first. Thoughts? Thanks, as always.
Yes Michael, the faster you go, the smaller the kerf!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy The amount of technical subtleties is remarkable. Happy holidays to you and your family and thank you
I try and sneak them in Michael! Don't tell anyone! 🤪
Appreciate the instruction but how does one accurately determine the kerf size for inlays on their laser without trying to measure with calibers? Do you have a video on this that I have missed?
I believe it's the size of the dot of your laser.
@@1-Nice-Guy you are correct. I fully understand concept of kerf based on years of CNC work where it is easy to calculate because you know the size of your bit. But figuring it out for the laser with different materials and how they burn is a bit more challenging. the only way I can think of doing it is a set of test methods on material as Rich suggested. But he didn't provide a test like he has with his universal test cards, etc. I am not saying he hasn't supplied one to us, but if he did I missed it and would like some help finding his method.
Maybe: th-cam.com/video/MAUiz5jNM3Q/w-d-xo.html
The dot size plus the material vaporized.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks Rich I saw this one when you did it and previously gave it a like. The problem it requires me to make an accurate measurement with my calipers and I am totally deficient at getting within the thousandths using my caliber. I usually need a method using practice cuts. So I think I discovered a method and started using it today. We will see if it works consistently. Like you often say it requires me to use additional material of what I am working with. Thanks for all your help and taking the time to reply.
I ordered that laser where do I order that camera so I can my material?
Check out this video Sandy: th-cam.com/video/6KoB1wtyYIA/w-d-xo.html It's an incredible package!
How do you find the kerf offset value? I have a 100w CO2 laser. Thanks
I thought this video answered that question...
Is the process the same when engraving on hardwood and inlaying a different piece of wood in the engraved area?
Yes Jeremiah, it is.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy rock and roll!! You are a genius!!
Does this explain why I had lines outside my fills when I did a line after fill, resulting in line outside my fill?
Maybe...
Just do exactly the same cuts on yellow and you’ll have a yellow peace sign with black inserts
No, not quite. You have to account for the kerf.
Thanks
Thanks for the support Paul! Much appreciated! 👍
So the kerf allows for the amount of material that is destroyed by the laser??
Yes. You're basically moving the cut line in or out the width of the laser.
Yes, and it does it without distortion Merrill.
hi there rich as you know i am a avid follower of your teaching videos i have followed the first video of the 20 cuts and come up with 3.90mm i divided that by 20 which gives me 0.195 then divided by 2 =0.0975 which i put in my kerf offset but when i cut out the pieces in this video they are loose still but if i put the kerf to 0.195 they fit like they should shown in your video so it has confused me a bit. can you help out and try and make me understand what i am doing wrong ??? hope i have explained it ok thanks Gary
Divide by 10 instead of 20, my mistake!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy yeah i did that now works great sometimes might have to adjust it up or down a little but got the idea now thanks was going to email you today to say by 10 thanks for the reply happy new year
So does this also apply to xtool or just Lightburn?
If you're using Lightburn, yes.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuywhat if you’re using XCS? Does the same idea apply?
Probably, but I don't use XCS, so I don't know.
Now if you'd just tell us how to measure the kerf? You probably already have though. 😁 I need to try this soon. Thanks for the video!
Yes, he does have a video on how to check your kerf.
th-cam.com/video/MAUiz5jNM3Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rich, Ken Tucker, I tried making your piece earrings. i tried the kurf at .015 the pieces fell through, what can i be doing wrong, i used black and yellow both are of the same manufacturer. please any advise is most appreciated. Thank you ken...
I guess you need to run the kerf test again Ken.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i might have missed it, but where is your kurf test? i dont mean to bug you about this.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy you are the only channel on youtube i watch. thank you for all you do.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy disregard, i fround your vid on kurf thank you.
Great Ken! I don't get notifications of the multiple replies for some reason.
I'm wondering how to use this with text on one color and put the text in another color
That's what the whole video is about John!
I'll add another comment that simply is in line with the hundreds of others who have the same impression after watching your videos...
WELL DONE!! HIGH FIVES!
Much appreciated Larry! 👍
So let me be the idiot to ask....How do you cut the puzzle pieces to fit better or is that all about the laser being properly focused (or unfocused I guess to make the cut line wider)?
Great video man! I always love learning more and more. Now to try this on an inlay with 1500 separate pieces in different colors :)
The puzzles are too hard to explain and require multiple cuts and files. I should have never brought it up! 🤪
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy LOL Keep going deeper and deeper into the rabbit hole :)
How do you apply this to a wooden puzzle?
You don't. Adjusting the kerf offset basically adjusts the size of the image by offsetting the laser beam. For a puzzle, you get what you based on your beam size.
hate to bother anyone, where do I find the Kirf test file that he mention?
In my free hobby Forums, in the members only section: lahobbyguy.com/bb
Ooooo mind 🤯 thanks
Any time!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy hay Thanks 😊
Can I do this with lettering
Yes, of course! You can just offset it.
Had trouble with my tabs, not fit right
If you have a laptop, Lightburn doesn't play well with the screen resolution.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy no I use a regular desktop. I don’t use the laptop.
You might need to adjust the display to a different resolution Brenda.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy oh ok thank you sir
So, the fact you cut the inside in black just means you can make a second earring with a black interior and yellow exterior -- then it looks like you did it on purpose. 😉 One question, you applied kerf to only one part, seems like by applying the kerf to both parts (1/2 the amount to one, 1/2 the amount to the other), you will get a better fit since in reality, both pieces are affected by the kerf equally and the real kerf width is 1/2 the total you applied to the insert pieces. The piece with the inner cut should cut to the outside of the line by the kerf width, the pieces you are cutting with outside cuts should cut to the outside of those lines by the kerf width so that both pieces are being cut to the original lines.
Makes total sense that kerf changes with changes in conditions and material. The materials we are using, especially the woods, were never intended to be worked down to 1/1000's of an inch. Wood moves with humidity changes, more in the cross-grain direction than along the grain. When doing furniture work, one always allows for wood movement in the finished piece so it doesn't break the final piece apart during seasonal changes in the environment in which the piece is placed. That movement is significantly more than a few thousandths; one usually allows on the order of 1/32 or more for movement cross-grain. It's cool that we can do this kind of precision with lasers, but your advice that testing is always needed makes total sense. Good news is that manufactured materials like plywood are more stable because they are manufactured with the grain between layers being laid perpendicular to one another. They are still going to move and the adhesive properties between batches are likely to change.
Makes total sense Mark! I'll give the 1/2 and 1/2 a try and see if there's any difference, but with the acrylic, it is a perfect fit.
I was actually wondering this same thing! It does get more complicated though.
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You can't just enlarge any shape. The proportions will be off.
Okay