Hey, A huge thank you from New Zealand! This solved my long standing intermittent 2A68-71 faults. I have a 320i euro spec e90. It would run but kept going into limp mode. Your video saved me a fortune in diagnostics. Thanks again, it's so nice to have my beema back running well. Scott
3/15/2021 i had a 2008 bmw 328i with codes 2A3F and 2A77 this video helped me but in my case the battery power distribution had a blown fuse on the same wire great video
Hello, I'm from São Paulo - Brazil. I had the same problem with a BMW 325, the car was armored, there was about 4cm of water around the battery. I had to redo the terminals and change the nuts, everything was corroded. Your video helped me a lot. Thanks!
this might be what I was looking for. my battery was sitting in water after a rain storm. i didn't even notice until I got a fail to communicate with water pump and valvetronic failed codes at the same time. i figured it was electrical since both fuses are side by side on fuse box under the hood. i narrowed it down to the distribution box on the battery. but this makes alot of since. gotta take the battery out to check. thanks in advance 🙏
Lots of thank yous for the video all the way from South Africa. I have been having the same issues for the past 2-3 weeks now. I hope this will solve my problems. Will check this first thing in the morning
thank you so much ! ithis video help me in the past ... i might have now the same problem.. i have done a swap and the car crank but no starts ... no sparks
Just bought the car maybe a month ago and I've been diagnosing the car for maybe a week now cause it's been stuck in limp mode thanx to your video my car is up and running now
Hi guys just want you to know... that this video help me a lot... I had the power cable rusted as hell and was given the code valvetronic power relay thank you!!!
@@stevet8607 On my particular case we had corosion in the bulkhead. You have to run a voltage drop or better yet a current carrying test for the main power wire running from the battery to the fuse block/valtronic system. The smaller cable not the large battery cable ( that one goes to the starter/ alternator). Usually this problem is a prefuse or corrosion where the cables go from the battery box through the bulkhead to the inner fender. It's a pain to fix, so test it first...Familiarize yourself with voltage drop. You could also have a binding eccentric shaft or failed motor. minor correction too, low voltage does not equal high amperage except in AC current. I learned that since my first post. Motor can still burn out with the low voltage though. GOOD LUCK 🙂
My battery area looks the same, there was some water in that area, mud, rust near those cables. So was the solution to replace the red cable that had water damage?
Went to the mechanic since my bmw 328i 2009 would show fuel pump malfunction. Codes P1016 and P1006. I replaced the valvetronic sensor and fuel pump. Still didnt turn on. Mechanic said they have to replace gas tank and fuel pump, now car starts but no power. Codes 2A3F, 2A77, 2A03, 29EI and 29E0. Don't know what to do now. Spent too much on replacing gas tank. Any idea what can be the issue?
Sorry I wish I can diagnose cars remotely if what I showed in the video doesn’t help you I can’t help you unless the car is present with my diagnostic equipment good luck
i just got the check engine light on a bmw e60 ,same day after buying it from the dealer (scumbags) , i was told its a tank ventilation valve 2a19, how serious of a problem is it?
You can buy both cables from BMW the one inside the battery area and the one outside the battery area that runs up to the engine or you can buy them used from a junk car and sectioned them out by cutting them and putting space in it that is not very easy for the average person with out specialized tools
I know this is an old video and I'm hoping you can recall. When you say come and go, what do you mean? I'm currently experiencing throttle problems. If I go to shift or match Rev, I get no throttle response at all. It's as if the car is off and I'm just stepping on the pedal. No rpm movement. After a few seconds it kicks in as if nothing happened. It doesn't happen every time but pretty much every day multiple times a day. Is that similar to what happened here?
I have exact same problem with my 130i 2cfa, 2d09 codes. New throttle body was fitted, but problem remains, eml light is on. Did you manage to find the solution?
@armand salloum sorry I was not clear. You stated the throttle issues would come and go. Does my symptoms sounds exactly the same as what the driver was experiencing?
Guys this video is mainly to show how the water issue affects the valve Tronic situation your situation may be different if you don’t have water in the trunk but regardless the only right way to diagnose it is with a factory level scanner and to see what fault codes are stored in the engine to help guide you in the right direction
I’m getting valvetronic error codes as well and turns out my vvt motor isn’t working or getting little to no power to it. And is currently now in Limp mode would this by any chance fix my problem or could it be my ECU
vacbmw another question so since the car turns on and all and I’ve replaced the VVT motor I’m guessing the VVT motor is working properly? Or else it wouldn’t start if it didn’t work correct?
@@maxhernandez9366 depends on where the motor was when it stopped... It could be anywjere in its range. If you have INPA you can do a motor sweep test inside the test plan for the relevant code, watch the motor and see what happens.
So what was the problem? I’m a little lost but my e90 is throwing codes 2A3F and 2A77. Car is in limp mode and when running the Rpms drop up and down continuously between 400rpm to 800rpm. Can’t figure it out for the life of me
Kody Stokes Our situation was a bad power wire and the battery area due to water corroded the cable that supplies power I am not sure exactly if that is your problem there are several reasons these systems act up but if you just want to limp your car around you could unplug the eccentric shaft sensor which is on the top of the valve cover towards the front
The problem in the end was a power supply failure from that power wire there’s water in there that can damage the connection and also the power supply panel on top of the battery has a built in Fuhs for that circuit either way if there is a loss of power on that cable which goes to the engine you will have that problem and it is relatively common
Hey, A huge thank you from New Zealand! This solved my long standing intermittent 2A68-71 faults. I have a 320i euro spec e90. It would run but kept going into limp mode. Your video saved me a fortune in diagnostics. Thanks again, it's so nice to have my beema back running well. Scott
Hey, I have the same problem with my E90. What did you do to fix it? Thanks in regards!
@@An_3.did you solve this.. seems like you have to replace the damaged wire. that should do it, if your battery was sitting in water
@@wavybump I fixed that but not by fixing the wire but by exchanging the Valvetronic motor. Thanks anyway!🙏🏼
3/15/2021 i had a 2008 bmw 328i with codes 2A3F and 2A77 this video helped me but in my case the battery power distribution had a blown fuse on the same wire great video
Where is that fuse located? Same code roo
Hello, I'm from São Paulo - Brazil. I had the same problem with a BMW 325, the car was armored, there was about 4cm of water around the battery. I had to redo the terminals and change the nuts, everything was corroded. Your video helped me a lot. Thanks!
this might be what I was looking for. my battery was sitting in water after a rain storm. i didn't even notice until I got a fail to communicate with water pump and valvetronic failed codes at the same time. i figured it was electrical since both fuses are side by side on fuse box under the hood. i narrowed it down to the distribution box on the battery. but this makes alot of since. gotta take the battery out to check. thanks in advance 🙏
Great audio! Thanks for sharing this BMW infomercial on the e90 valvetronic system.
Nice work Armand.
Lots of thank yous for the video all the way from South Africa. I have been having the same issues for the past 2-3 weeks now. I hope this will solve my problems. Will check this first thing in the morning
thank you so much ! ithis video help me in the past ... i might have now the same problem.. i have done a swap and the car crank but no starts ... no sparks
You came in clutch, same problem I was having!!
Thanks for the video i had a battery box full of water and the cable had broken off
Cheers
Just bought the car maybe a month ago and I've been diagnosing the car for maybe a week now cause it's been stuck in limp mode thanx to your video my car is up and running now
Hey, I have the same issue with my 320i E90. It sometimes goes into limp mode. How did you solve the problem?
Thanks in Regards!
Video helped a lot thank you
Hi guys just want you to know... that this video help me a lot...
I had the power cable rusted as hell and was given the code valvetronic power relay
thank you!!!
very well explained, thanks
Huge thanks!!! You saved my day and my wallet.
Great job, Nailed it
Thank you
Tha ks man. I did this today acgwr weeks. Tba k you man. Subs now.
Very Good! Probably saved me a 2nd DME ...We had one (2007 328xi) with a burned DME and this was the culprit. Low Volts = High Amps and slow motor.
What was the exact culprit
@@stevet8607 On my particular case we had corosion in the bulkhead. You have to run a voltage drop or better yet a current carrying test for the main power wire running from the battery to the fuse block/valtronic system. The smaller cable not the large battery cable ( that one goes to the starter/ alternator). Usually this problem is a prefuse or corrosion where the cables go from the battery box through the bulkhead to the inner fender. It's a pain to fix, so test it first...Familiarize yourself with voltage drop. You could also have a binding eccentric shaft or failed motor. minor correction too, low voltage does not equal high amperage except in AC current. I learned that since my first post. Motor can still burn out with the low voltage though. GOOD LUCK 🙂
Great vid thanks!
Yly are a hero
Good job
can i run a red jumper wire from +post to the main junction box to by pass cable n see if it starts car n see if its the cable?
THX😀
I had the exact same problem on my 2006 325i the nut that secures the cable in the battery box had completely dissolved... that you
HOW DID YOU STOP THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT FROM FILLING UP WITH WATER? THATS THE ONLY ANSWER WE NEED😅
My battery area looks the same, there was some water in that area, mud, rust near those cables. So was the solution to replace the red cable that had water damage?
Depends. Pull on cable if it breaks off. Yes replace
Boss mine is 2A5F any help please
Could this code also cause the “engine malfunction” to pop up on the dashboard?
Yes But then again a lot of things make that light come on as well
Went to the mechanic since my bmw 328i 2009 would show fuel pump malfunction. Codes P1016 and P1006. I replaced the valvetronic sensor and fuel pump. Still didnt turn on. Mechanic said they have to replace gas tank and fuel pump, now car starts but no power. Codes 2A3F, 2A77, 2A03, 29EI and 29E0. Don't know what to do now. Spent too much on replacing gas tank. Any idea what can be the issue?
Sorry I wish I can diagnose cars remotely if what I showed in the video doesn’t help you I can’t help you unless the car is present with my diagnostic equipment good luck
i just got the check engine light on a bmw e60 ,same day after buying it from the dealer (scumbags) , i was told its a tank ventilation valve 2a19, how serious of a problem is it?
meatpuppet76
i tried replacing the wire but the terminal itself underneath the battery that runs to the valvetronic motor melted. what do u suggest? please help
You can buy both cables from BMW the one inside the battery area and the one outside the battery area that runs up to the engine or you can buy them used from a junk car and sectioned them out by cutting them and putting space in it that is not very easy for the average person with out specialized tools
I know this is an old video and I'm hoping you can recall. When you say come and go, what do you mean?
I'm currently experiencing throttle problems. If I go to shift or match Rev, I get no throttle response at all. It's as if the car is off and I'm just stepping on the pedal. No rpm movement. After a few seconds it kicks in as if nothing happened. It doesn't happen every time but pretty much every day multiple times a day. Is that similar to what happened here?
Not sure what your question is the important thing to look for is water in the battery area and damaged cable because of that
I have exact same problem with my 130i 2cfa, 2d09 codes. New throttle body was fitted, but problem remains, eml light is on. Did you manage to find the solution?
@@motyla_noga4802 you're getting a dead pedal for a few seconds as well while driving?
@armand salloum sorry I was not clear. You stated the throttle issues would come and go. Does my symptoms sounds exactly the same as what the driver was experiencing?
Guys this video is mainly to show how the water issue affects the valve Tronic situation your situation may be different if you don’t have water in the trunk but regardless the only right way to diagnose it is with a factory level scanner and to see what fault codes are stored in the engine to help guide you in the right direction
I’m getting valvetronic error codes as well and turns out my vvt motor isn’t working or getting little to no power to it. And is currently now in Limp mode would this by any chance fix my problem or could it be my ECU
Max Hernandez possibly. Look in battery tray
vacbmw another question so since the car turns on and all and I’ve replaced the VVT motor I’m guessing the VVT motor is working properly? Or else it wouldn’t start if it didn’t work correct?
@@maxhernandez9366 did you find the solution to it
@@maxhernandez9366 depends on where the motor was when it stopped... It could be anywjere in its range. If you have INPA you can do a motor sweep test inside the test plan for the relevant code, watch the motor and see what happens.
i have throttle response but am gettinf code P0156
Any solution? I'm in the same boat
So what was the problem? I’m a little lost but my e90 is throwing codes 2A3F and 2A77. Car is in limp mode and when running the Rpms drop up and down continuously between 400rpm to 800rpm. Can’t figure it out for the life of me
Kody Stokes Our situation was a bad power wire and the battery area due to water corroded the cable that supplies power I am not sure exactly if that is your problem there are several reasons these systems act up but if you just want to limp your car around you could unplug the eccentric shaft sensor which is on the top of the valve cover towards the front
Did you find out what the problem was exactly
The problem in the end was a power supply failure from that power wire there’s water in there that can damage the connection and also the power supply panel on top of the battery has a built in Fuhs for that circuit either way if there is a loss of power on that cable which goes to the engine you will have that problem and it is relatively common
Kody stokes u find out what the problem was
Another bad design from BMW all they have to do keep the junction higher so will not get wet
or take care of your car, clean the leaves from the outside drains, check your battery tray periodically especially after rain etc.