By far, you've got the best diagnostic video I've seen. I had a working water pump because it would work when the bleeding process was activated but my 07 328i would overheat. I replaced the thermostat and temperature sensor. I noticed the water pump wires were cut because of the BMW biodegradable plastics and the metal water pump clip which helped to cut them. I repaired the wires but I tied them up to the clip with a tie strap so the clip would not cut them again. The car still over heated. Today, I replaced the coolant level sensor and I noticed that the water pump did not work anymore. This is where your awesome video comes in. After I check the fuses, I will determine if my water pump finally failed or a fuse blew out. Thanks some much for the fuses location because I could not figure that. I attempted to remove the white cover under the cowl panel but I could only get 3 sides to unlock. I'll try again tomorrow. Much respect appreciation brother!!!
Update: I removed the cowl panel and my 2007 SULEV (Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle) did not come with the black fuse box. The 40 fuse was good. I checked all the fuses in the glove box and they were all good. I started the bleeding process and it worked. The water jet shut out to the hood of the car. I tried to start the bleeding process and it did not work anymore. I tapped the water pump with a long metal rod and the water pump started working again. I tried to activate the bleeding process a couple more time and the water pump did not work anymore. Diagnosis: Intermittent water pump failure at 130,000 miles. Thanks so much for the fuses diagnosis again Piston Play!!!
hey quick question , when your car would overheat did the coolant tank start erupting coolant everywhere ? i’m having a problem whereafter a couple of pulls my coolant just goes everywhere and seems to be too much pressure or something but can’t figure it out.
Found this on Beemerpost forum: " The N46 has a mechanical coolant pump driven by the belt, so the bleeding procedure is different. Basically you fill it up with the bleeding screws open, then close the screws but leave the cap off. Start the engine and wait until you see coolant coming out of the small hose at the top of the reservoir, then close the cap. Leave the engine idle for a while, wait for it to cool down, and top off." Tried this an seemed to get the waterflow pushing from small top pipe.
@@MeeRulz Hi there, I can't seem to find that thread now on forum as I am not registered on the site but when was looking for solutions came across it. There's 2 bleed screws, one on the reservoir tank on the top and the other situated on pipe that connects to oil cooler. Hope that helps.
I'm having this problem on my 2011 335i n55. Battery tray was full of water with the battery being submerged at least half way up. There are 2 power wires under the battery so check for this and if you have this going on your going to want to look at those wires for sure. Still working on getting my car on the road but this video really helped me get a good starting point. TY✌
I’m having the same problem I checked my fuse box under glove department fuses 37, 38,39 and 41 does not light up. Does that mean those fuses are blown? I didn’t pull the fuse out because I had a hard time reaching in there, but I do have the same circuit tester like you have with the light comes on and that looks like a screwdriver, but those fuses did not come on and I think the one that you tried last one it didn’t come on also for mine. I had a hard time opening the fuse box with the engine is I didn’t take the top off because I had a hard hard time, but I did check the department one and it’s all fuses. The ones that I mentioned are glowing so what should I do?
Hello I have bmw e90 2007 I replaced the thermostat and water pump, flushed the coolant and added new one. This BMW model has no electric water pump,right as it doesn't activate by turning on the heater and pressing the accelerator for 10 seconds So I tried opening the bleed screw and add coolant. I patiently waited to make the fluid stable and no bubbles visible. (Not sure if I did the right thing though). I closed the reservoir cap and started the engine. Temperature starting to increase. It reached 105degree celsius and slowly reach 108degree celcius. After 5mins it was at 110degree celcius so I turned it off. Is the temperature normal? If not what should I do? What is the maximum temperature for me to turn it off? Thanks
2008 750i and fans stuck on high if motor is running and since that started it wont cold start ive replaced water temp sensor and water pump sensor no fix , now im putting in new thermostat with sensor and hope that does it , do u think im gonna fix it or is it something elese like module?or fuse?
Man great video, My 40amp fuse was blown, the second I replaced it, blew instantly. I have checked all BSD components, connections and grounds. Everything checks out but the fuse just keeps blowing causing a little arch… I have never ever seen this fault 2e84 electric water pump missing. The water pump is 2 months old and it will not activate the bleeding procedure. I don’t know what’s going on anymore, I’m about to replace the pump but I still think it won’t work. Any suggestions on why this fuse keeps blowing ? 40amp water pump fuse in the glove box
I tried bleeding coolant system on my Bmw E90 320i 2011 model and can't get auto pump to activate. Could it be the fuse that causing it to not activate pump?
I found out a little more about this after I replaced my pump and got the codes 2E84 and 2E85. They say the same thing that the Water pump is missing. Yet the pump works but the thermostat doesn't seem to. So I checked the pump with my Pro Tool App on my phone (Very powerful app and replaces the INPA). I turned the pump on with 50% cycling test then did the 95 % test. After that the codes went away and it works fine. Very strange. I have also heard the resetting the adaptations for it will do this as well. But I didn't try that yet.
is this a generic dtc or bmw specific? my water pump just failed randomly but hasn’t had any problems since with no replacement. i only got codes for pump speed outside of speed tolerance and water pump switched off due to blockage. but they were bmw specific codes
I installed new pump , thermostat and radiator after overheating issues and mine wasn’t doing the bleeding process either . I’m installing new fuses tomorrow hopefully this works .
Hey, i have a problem with my car. When its cold outside my car is acting weird. After starting the car, the temperature increases at a normal rate to over 240f, but the thermostat does’nt open and cold air blowns inside. When I turn off the engine and then turn it back on, after a while the thermostat opens and everything works fine. So car works fine but only after this action. I replaced thermostat, cooling temp sensor and problem still remains. What it can be?
Based on what you just described to me, it could be a fuse it could be your water pump could be a thermostat it could be a relay did you get the car scanned?
Hello, thanks for your video. I have a 2015 BMW 528i that after getting a low oil pressure message started leaking. Before doing so, cut off all hoses on the radiator except the one on the temperature thermostat. Unfortunately, the problem was that you did not perform the bleeding procedure and possibly damaged the water pump. I still have doubts that it is damaged because I don't know how to test it in the car. The mechanic says it's the pump because he already tested it and got a signal or connection fault code: EOBD DTC Missing: U019F But I verified that the signal, voltage and ground are received. I'm not sure if I measured the number of volts
I have an 09 335 and the water pump and thermostat was replaced about 8 months ago. Last week the car overheated twice in two days and had codes 2E81, 83, and 84. I did hook up the battery charger and ran the bleed procedure and the car has not overheated since. I checked the fuses today and my car doesn't have a fuse in the #33 spot. and all other fuses reported the same voltage (12.84 volts), so I am assuming they are ok. I haven't checked any of the fuses in the engine bay yet, only the glove box. My coolant temp runs between 99 and 108 Celsius. I am hoping the bleed process corrected this issue.
@@gnicevids in my case it turned out to be an electrical issue. The shop traced the current from the water pump back and it ended up that wire on the firewall near to the positive battery connection was loose and arcing causing the water pump to shutoff and the car to overheat. Thankfully it was only a $200 repair. Unlike the rear main seal that had to be replaced two months ago…lol.
Were you getting the right voltage on the conector pins of the water pump before the power distribution box and the fuse were changed? Im having a similar issue with my car but the voltage is reaching the pump and all the fuses are good. Just want to make sure before changing the power distribution box.
I have had 2e83 and 2e85 coming back and forth for a few months now. i have a brand new alternator, radiator fan, water pump, thermostat, battery. and much more new items. The car seems to run fine but i dont hear the fan turn on even if i try and turn the AC on. Did the power distribution box solve your issue? or IBS? what else did you try?
I have the same issue but it says not turbo! And I have a 335i (turbo) so I dont know where my fuse is located for that, I can never get the bleeding process to work I always have to use INPA for that
Hi how are you. I am having similar issues with my 2010 e90 335i. When I try to follow your instructions my fuse box differs from yours in terms of what fuses are there and the fuses under the hood. I also checked the battery fuse and they all came back as 12.1v. Not sure what it can be besides the pump itself being bad. But I just installed this pump about 2 weeks ago then I how the 2e84 and 2e85 weird. I’ll guess I check the pump itself and see if the connections are bad and the ground is placed correctly I guess. Or this pump is no good. I don’t know. Any advice that lead me in the right direction thanks 🙏🏾
Bro I have a N26 2015 BMW 428i. I had an engine overheating warning come on. Suffice to say I barely made it home. Checked the OBD code and it read u019f. Engine coolant not communicating. I am thinking water pump but I want to check the Fuse. Any ideas which Fuse for my model. Thanks for sharing the video.
I think it's a 30A, not a 50A fuse, and it's fuse F02 in fuse carrier A8680. That's the fuse carrier in the E-Box that has five fuses in it (F01 through F05 -- four 30A fuses and one 20A fuse). Unplug the carrier and then slide off the top to get access to the fuses. Hopefully that fuse is your problem.
I Dont have the the fuse in the front for some reason. BMW 320 e91 Engine n43 and i got this issue. Pump works but i get the communication error. Have had similar issue?
BMW fam I need y’all help so my serpentine belt ripped off landed in my radiator fan reservoir tank cracked, and half shooting all the cooling out pulled over on the side of the road, turn on the vehicle, heard the pieces of the belt messing with the fan fan cycle, kept turning off and on, finally pulled out the remaining pieces of the belt out the radiator fan filled it up with water. Next thing you know radiator fan was going crazy like it was about to come out the car then turned off and then turned back on going crazy again next next thing you know the AC lines shout Freon out replaced reservoir tag topped off cooling did the bleeding procedure water pump is turning on and cycling fan still stuck on high AC now blowing cold. Replaced also radiator fan switch. There’s a little fin of the fan broken due to the damage of the belt. I need y’all help got no codes what could it be? Thanks in advance
Sounds like the fan was damaged from the coolant possibly, they're about $150 on ebay. Make sure you get the correct one, there is a different one for the n52 engine and the n54 engine
But but shops will say , yup it has power. Its good. I like checking my stuff with a multimeter or i have this snap on test light that shows you voltage on the screen
Thanks for the video, Im having the issue of my water pump staying on as soon as i jump start the car. First issue was the red oil light, Car started to shake and no rpm. Did an oil change and Filter car is fine but now the water pump stays on and drains my Battery😊
I’m having the same problem I checked my fuse box under glove department fuses 37, 38,39 and 41 does not light up. Does that mean those fuses are blown? I didn’t pull the fuse out because I had a hard time reaching in there, but I do have the same circuit tester like you have with the light comes on and that looks like a screwdriver, but those fuses did not come on and I think the one that you tried last one it didn’t come on also for mine. I had a hard time opening the fuse box with the engine is I didn’t take the top off because I had a hard hard time, but I did check the department one and it’s all fuses. The ones that I mentioned are glowing so what should I do? I have a 2011 BMW 328 three series.
By far, you've got the best diagnostic video I've seen. I had a working water pump because it would work when the bleeding process was activated but my 07 328i would overheat. I replaced the thermostat and temperature sensor. I noticed the water pump wires were cut because of the BMW biodegradable plastics and the metal water pump clip which helped to cut them. I repaired the wires but I tied them up to the clip with a tie strap so the clip would not cut them again. The car still over heated. Today, I replaced the coolant level sensor and I noticed that the water pump did not work anymore.
This is where your awesome video comes in. After I check the fuses, I will determine if my water pump finally failed or a fuse blew out.
Thanks some much for the fuses location because I could not figure that. I attempted to remove the white cover under the cowl panel but I could only get 3 sides to unlock. I'll try again tomorrow. Much respect appreciation brother!!!
Update: I removed the cowl panel and my 2007 SULEV (Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle) did not come with the black fuse box. The 40 fuse was good.
I checked all the fuses in the glove box and they were all good.
I started the bleeding process and it worked. The water jet shut out to the hood of the car.
I tried to start the bleeding process and it did not work anymore.
I tapped the water pump with a long metal rod and the water pump started working again.
I tried to activate the bleeding process a couple more time and the water pump did not work anymore.
Diagnosis: Intermittent water pump failure at 130,000 miles.
Thanks so much for the fuses diagnosis again Piston Play!!!
I’m happy to assess. I hope everything goes well.
hey quick question , when your car would overheat did the coolant tank start erupting coolant everywhere ? i’m having a problem whereafter a couple of pulls my coolant just goes everywhere and seems to be too much pressure or something but can’t figure it out.
@@jonathanromero9026what was your fix ?
@@jonathanromero9026this behavior could be from steam buildup in the engine coolant channels and backing up into the expansion tank.
You are a life saver man, no other review videos/diagnostics are online🙏🏽
2024 checking in here . Mahhh man !!! Thank you! 🙏
Found this on Beemerpost forum: " The N46 has a mechanical coolant pump driven by the belt, so the bleeding procedure is different. Basically you fill it up with the bleeding screws open, then close the screws but leave the cap off. Start the engine and wait until you see coolant coming out of the small hose at the top of the reservoir, then close the cap. Leave the engine idle for a while, wait for it to cool down, and top off." Tried this an seemed to get the waterflow pushing from small top pipe.
hi can you share the link to that post plz,. i have e90 N46 engine and facing the same issue
@@MeeRulz Hi there, I can't seem to find that thread now on forum as I am not registered on the site but when was looking for solutions came across it. There's 2 bleed screws, one on the reservoir tank on the top and the other situated on pipe that connects to oil cooler. Hope that helps.
I'm having this problem on my 2011 335i n55. Battery tray was full of water with the battery being submerged at least half way up. There are 2 power wires under the battery so check for this and if you have this going on your going to want to look at those wires for sure. Still working on getting my car on the road but this video really helped me get a good starting point. TY✌
Thank u bro I was really stressing so much about my car and I look at this video and I just fixed it
happy to help
You are the best bro been trying to figure out wtf was wrong for weeks the 2E84 code popped up on my diagnostics machine.
I really appreciate you sharing this, thank you!
I’m having the same problem I checked my fuse box under glove department fuses 37, 38,39 and 41 does not light up. Does that mean those fuses are blown? I didn’t pull the fuse out because I had a hard time reaching in there, but I do have the same circuit tester like you have with the light comes on and that looks like a screwdriver, but those fuses did not come on and I think the one that you tried last one it didn’t come on also for mine. I had a hard time opening the fuse box with the engine is I didn’t take the top off because I had a hard hard time, but I did check the department one and it’s all fuses. The ones that I mentioned are glowing so what should I do?
Hello I have bmw e90 2007
I replaced the thermostat and water pump, flushed the coolant and added new one. This BMW model has no electric water pump,right as it doesn't activate by turning on the heater and pressing the accelerator for 10 seconds So I tried opening the bleed screw and add coolant. I patiently waited to make the fluid stable and no bubbles visible. (Not sure if I did the right thing though). I closed the reservoir cap and started the engine. Temperature starting to increase. It reached 105degree celsius and slowly reach 108degree celcius. After 5mins it was at 110degree celcius so I turned it off. Is the temperature normal? If not what should I do? What is the maximum temperature for me to turn it off? Thanks
Thank you so much for your in sight of these problems with the electric water pump in bmws.
2008 750i and fans stuck on high if motor is running and since that started it wont cold start ive replaced water temp sensor and water pump sensor no fix , now im putting in new thermostat with sensor and hope that does it , do u think im gonna fix it or is it something elese like module?or fuse?
Outstanding work!
Question,where did you hook up the ground when you check the fuses in glov box with the light tester ??
ground it to the door joint bolt
@@PistonPlay thanks 🙏🏽
Man great video,
My 40amp fuse was blown, the second I replaced it, blew instantly. I have checked all BSD components, connections and grounds. Everything checks out but the fuse just keeps blowing causing a little arch…
I have never ever seen this fault 2e84 electric water pump missing.
The water pump is 2 months old and it will not activate the bleeding procedure.
I don’t know what’s going on anymore, I’m about to replace the pump but I still think it won’t work.
Any suggestions on why this fuse keeps blowing ? 40amp water pump fuse in the glove box
thanks man currently having over heating issues here and there. will defo look into this
I tried bleeding coolant system on my Bmw E90 320i 2011 model and can't get auto pump to activate. Could it be the fuse that causing it to not activate pump?
Why dont you try the steps shown on the video?
I found out a little more about this after I replaced my pump and got the codes 2E84 and 2E85. They say the same thing that the Water pump is missing. Yet the pump works but the thermostat doesn't seem to. So I checked the pump with my Pro Tool App on my phone (Very powerful app and replaces the INPA). I turned the pump on with 50% cycling test then did the 95 % test. After that the codes went away and it works fine. Very strange. I have also heard the resetting the adaptations for it will do this as well. But I didn't try that yet.
But what about the code that says pump speed deviation. Is it working but not good enough?
is this a generic dtc or bmw specific? my water pump just failed randomly but hasn’t had any problems since with no replacement. i only got codes for pump speed outside of speed tolerance and water pump switched off due to blockage. but they were bmw specific codes
I have similar issues that fusi 37 I’m only getting 0.5 volts is that correc or supost have over 12 car off ?
Thank you for your information & sharing 👍
Does Mercedes 07 Mercedes benz have the fuse like bmw car thank you for reply
I would give you a kiss if you weren't so far away😢appreciate you bro God bless
I installed new pump , thermostat and radiator after overheating issues and mine wasn’t doing the bleeding process either . I’m installing new fuses tomorrow hopefully this works .
Muchas gracias por la información, espero me sirva de ayuda,saludos
Hey, i have a problem with my car. When its cold outside my car is acting weird. After starting the car, the temperature increases at a normal rate to over 240f, but the thermostat does’nt open and cold air blowns inside. When I turn off the engine and then turn it back on, after a while the thermostat opens and everything works fine. So car works fine but only after this action. I replaced thermostat, cooling temp sensor and problem still remains. What it can be?
Based on what you just described to me, it could be a fuse it could be your water pump could be a thermostat it could be a relay did you get the car scanned?
Hello, i know this is an old post, but I experience the exact same problem.
Did you fix this? And how? 😅
@ You need to buy new oem water pump and everything will work as should
@@badgobdg8121 ok. Did this fix the issue for you? It wasn’t the thermostat?
@ yes, water pump was a issue
Hello, thanks for your video. I have a 2015 BMW 528i that after getting a low oil pressure message started leaking. Before doing so, cut off all hoses on the radiator except the one on the temperature thermostat. Unfortunately, the problem was that you did not perform the bleeding procedure and possibly damaged the water pump. I still have doubts that it is damaged because I don't know how to test it in the car. The mechanic says it's the pump because he already tested it and got a signal or connection fault code: EOBD DTC Missing: U019F
But I verified that the signal, voltage and ground are received. I'm not sure if I measured the number of volts
Where did u get those headlights bro
The headlights that are currently in this car or the second pair or the new pair
The one in this video
I have an 09 335 and the water pump and thermostat was replaced about 8 months ago. Last week the car overheated twice in two days and had codes 2E81, 83, and 84. I did hook up the battery charger and ran the bleed procedure and the car has not overheated since. I checked the fuses today and my car doesn't have a fuse in the #33 spot. and all other fuses reported the same voltage (12.84 volts), so I am assuming they are ok. I haven't checked any of the fuses in the engine bay yet, only the glove box. My coolant temp runs between 99 and 108 Celsius. I am hoping the bleed process corrected this issue.
How do you solve the issue?
@@gnicevids in my case it turned out to be an electrical issue. The shop traced the current from the water pump back and it ended up that wire on the firewall near to the positive battery connection was loose and arcing causing the water pump to shutoff and the car to overheat. Thankfully it was only a $200 repair. Unlike the rear main seal that had to be replaced two months ago…lol.
Were you getting the right voltage on the conector pins of the water pump before the power distribution box and the fuse were changed? Im having a similar issue with my car but the voltage is reaching the pump and all the fuses are good. Just want to make sure before changing the power distribution box.
I have had 2e83 and 2e85 coming back and forth for a few months now. i have a brand new alternator, radiator fan, water pump, thermostat, battery. and much more new items. The car seems to run fine but i dont hear the fan turn on even if i try and turn the AC on. Did the power distribution box solve your issue? or IBS? what else did you try?
Mines missing that one fuse does that mean thats the problem?
I have the same issue but it says not turbo! And I have a 335i (turbo) so I dont know where my fuse is located for that, I can never get the bleeding process to work I always have to use INPA for that
Hi how are you. I am having similar issues with my 2010 e90 335i.
When I try to follow your instructions my fuse box differs from yours in terms of what fuses are there and the fuses under the hood.
I also checked the battery fuse and they all came back as 12.1v. Not sure what it can be besides the pump itself being bad. But I just installed this pump about 2 weeks ago then I how the 2e84 and 2e85 weird.
I’ll guess I check the pump itself and see if the connections are bad and the ground is placed correctly I guess. Or this pump is no good. I don’t know. Any advice that lead me in the right direction thanks 🙏🏾
Did u ever fix it ?
Bro I have a N26 2015 BMW 428i. I had an engine overheating warning come on. Suffice to say I barely made it home. Checked the OBD code and it read u019f. Engine coolant not communicating. I am thinking water pump but I want to check the Fuse. Any ideas which Fuse for my model. Thanks for sharing the video.
I think it's a 30A, not a 50A fuse, and it's fuse F02 in fuse carrier A8680. That's the fuse carrier in the E-Box that has five fuses in it (F01 through F05 -- four 30A fuses and one 20A fuse). Unplug the carrier and then slide off the top to get access to the fuses. Hopefully that fuse is your problem.
Hi victor, i got same code. What was your final solution?
I Dont have the the fuse in the front for some reason. BMW 320 e91 Engine n43 and i got this issue. Pump works but i get the communication error. Have had similar issue?
U find out? I dont have in front to
Im having same problem I even replaced the pump but 2e85 still coms on pump is running fine tho
Awesome video!
Thank you for the info
I have an f10 BMW 2014 model and the water pump can't stop running
BMW fam I need y’all help so my serpentine belt ripped off landed in my radiator fan reservoir tank cracked, and half shooting all the cooling out pulled over on the side of the road, turn on the vehicle, heard the pieces of the belt messing with the fan fan cycle, kept turning off and on, finally pulled out the remaining pieces of the belt out the radiator fan filled it up with water. Next thing you know radiator fan was going crazy like it was about to come out the car then turned off and then turned back on going crazy again next next thing you know the AC lines shout Freon out replaced reservoir tag topped off cooling did the bleeding procedure water pump is turning on and cycling fan still stuck on high AC now blowing cold. Replaced also radiator fan switch. There’s a little fin of the fan broken due to the damage of the belt. I need y’all help got no codes what could it be? Thanks in advance
Best advice I can give is to get a good aftermarket radiator as well as buy a new reservoir for the coolant if you haven’t
Sounds like the fan was damaged from the coolant possibly, they're about $150 on ebay. Make sure you get the correct one, there is a different one for the n52 engine and the n54 engine
I dont understand how that's not the first thing shops checked for, what fuses, first you need to check very easy
But but shops will say , yup it has power. Its good. I like checking my stuff with a multimeter or i have this snap on test light that shows you voltage on the screen
Wonderful
You are a legend !
I dont have that fuse in my glove box?? Is that normal ? My car is european
Good shit thx
Thanks for the video,
Im having the issue of my water pump staying on as soon as i jump start the car.
First issue was the red oil light,
Car started to shake and no rpm.
Did an oil change and Filter car is fine but now the water pump stays on and drains my Battery😊
❤
What model is your car my is 328i is it same for all
Bro thanks I have the same problem 😮
Just got a Cd9010 lin code on my n20 and I hope this will fix it 🥹
I’m having the same problem I checked my fuse box under glove department fuses 37, 38,39 and 41 does not light up. Does that mean those fuses are blown? I didn’t pull the fuse out because I had a hard time reaching in there, but I do have the same circuit tester like you have with the light comes on and that looks like a screwdriver, but those fuses did not come on and I think the one that you tried last one it didn’t come on also for mine. I had a hard time opening the fuse box with the engine is I didn’t take the top off because I had a hard hard time, but I did check the department one and it’s all fuses. The ones that I mentioned are glowing so what should I do? I have a 2011 BMW 328 three series.