Keep'em coming man! I would like to see more of this kind of content. Going to get a 3d printer soon. Just got to decide on which is best and what I can do with them. Maybe a Tyriand vid and see what is possible to get the best bang for the buck!
First off: you'll not regret a printer! I've printed more than just model bits, my keyboard was missing keys and I found some awesome Gundam themed keycaps, and some token holders for a couple table top games I play, and much more. In regards to the Tyranid video, I can definitely look into it! Watch this space 😉
Nice work, look forward to when I eventually get my own resin 3d printer. (No space at the moment). Will you be showing the finished, painted models either on here or Instagram?
Thank you. I plan on streaming the painting of them over on my twitch, Twitch.tv/faustdaimos , but I also try to post my painting live streams on here under Paint, LIVE! And the finished product will go up on Instagram:)
Hey it looks like the model link has been removed. If you have them still around privately do you think you could share? If the model is the EmanG version from total war i already have that saved so lemme know
The time difference is typically because of your z axis. Try cleaning off the rod and lubricating it with silicone lubricant (don't use grease or things like wd40, those'll just gunk things up) The reason is because you want to have as little friction as possible on the rod when it's lifting. If you do big or bulky build plates the time will also be impacted from that. There's also a ton of other engineering factors at play. but if the time is less than 10% off, it's not really a problem, from my experience.
And btw WD40 is NOT a lubricant. A lot of people worldwide think it is, but W40 is actually used to clean and remove moisture. It Evaporates way to fast to lubricate, but its awesome to remove old sticky grease☝️ Used it to clean a lot of 40yrs old door hinges😅
Adding to this: not sure if Chitubox has the option, but LycheeSlicer lets you override the time values for both the initial layers and each regular one. You can use a stopwatch and physically time one of each layer mode (i.e., lift to lift time) and throw that into the resin profile, then open the file for a previously-printed job and adjust the times by a few tenths of seconds until the estimated print time matches how long that print actually took. I can get 12+ hour prints accurate to within a few minutes using the technique
I'm going to try that this weekend!! I have some Underworlds token holders I need to print and for both of them its 14 hours total actual time vs 12 hours according to chitubox Thank you!! 😊
Hi, great video and awesome diversity between the 3 fully build models you get out of it BUT, I don’t see the link in the description to find the file for the parts? Could you or someone help me out please? Thanks!
I love these types of videos really getting a bang for your buck. Small tip, I would recommend not putting the direct link to the parts printed as GW looks for these types of videos and will expunged the files if they can.
Nice video mate. That "Australia tax" sucks :-/ But good choice of a printer. I recently upgraded/added a Saturn 8k beside my old Mars Pro and it was my best decision recently :-)
Hi, yeah, unfortunately it was recommended to me that I DON'T include the links to the files that I use in case The Overlords decide to try to have them removed. The best that I can do is to point you in the direction of cults3d and myminifactory as they both can be searched via keywords. Thats how I originally found them.
What? You set your alarm to the time your slicer gave you, instead of the time your printer said when you started the print? How/why would you do that? Anyway. The estimate is wrong because the slicer doesn't take the specific kinematics of your printer into account.
not a 3d-printer (no time), but love to see resourceful use and thoughtful adaptations.
Thank you! I appreciate it!!
Genuinely good quality and posing on the “kitbashed” ones. Definitely going to try this!
Heck yes! Let me know how it turns out!!
Basically my plan for doing a gargant army out of one box of gargant and some small bois.
Oooooo good idea!
Just got a 3D printer this weekend and I have a pile in my bits box that I’m very hyped to build into some more stuff
oh HECK YES!!!
let me know how it goes!
Keep'em coming man! I would like to see more of this kind of content. Going to get a 3d printer soon. Just got to decide on which is best and what I can do with them. Maybe a Tyriand vid and see what is possible to get the best bang for the buck!
First off: you'll not regret a printer! I've printed more than just model bits, my keyboard was missing keys and I found some awesome Gundam themed keycaps, and some token holders for a couple table top games I play, and much more.
In regards to the Tyranid video, I can definitely look into it!
Watch this space 😉
Nice work, look forward to when I eventually get my own resin 3d printer. (No space at the moment). Will you be showing the finished, painted models either on here or Instagram?
Thank you. I plan on streaming the painting of them over on my twitch, Twitch.tv/faustdaimos , but I also try to post my painting live streams on here under Paint, LIVE! And the finished product will go up on Instagram:)
hi where are the links for the 3d printed parts thanks awesome video by the way
Hi!
If you keyword search in 3d sites, it should show up.
Hey it looks like the model link has been removed. If you have them still around privately do you think you could share?
If the model is the EmanG version from total war i already have that saved so lemme know
The time difference is typically because of your z axis. Try cleaning off the rod and lubricating it with silicone lubricant (don't use grease or things like wd40, those'll just gunk things up) The reason is because you want to have as little friction as possible on the rod when it's lifting. If you do big or bulky build plates the time will also be impacted from that. There's also a ton of other engineering factors at play. but if the time is less than 10% off, it's not really a problem, from my experience.
oh interesting! i definitely did NOT know that.
Time to clean and lubricate the rod.
Thank you !!
And btw WD40 is NOT a lubricant. A lot of people worldwide think it is, but W40 is actually used to clean and remove moisture. It Evaporates way to fast to lubricate, but its awesome to remove old sticky grease☝️
Used it to clean a lot of 40yrs old door hinges😅
Adding to this: not sure if Chitubox has the option, but LycheeSlicer lets you override the time values for both the initial layers and each regular one. You can use a stopwatch and physically time one of each layer mode (i.e., lift to lift time) and throw that into the resin profile, then open the file for a previously-printed job and adjust the times by a few tenths of seconds until the estimated print time matches how long that print actually took. I can get 12+ hour prints accurate to within a few minutes using the technique
That's handy to know! Thank you
I'm going to try that this weekend!!
I have some Underworlds token holders I need to print and for both of them its 14 hours total actual time vs 12 hours according to chitubox
Thank you!! 😊
I'm guessing the model was on cults and then taken down as there is now no link in the description 😞. Oh well great job anyway!
Yes, unfortunately those files got bopped.
Thank you for your kind words
Just wondering, was it the one from EmanG ?
This has opened some options for me, workkng through the models from the Imperium magazine and there is so much left over!!!
I'm jealous! I couldn't get Imperium in Canada 😥
Hi, great video and awesome diversity between the 3 fully build models you get out of it BUT, I don’t see the link in the description to find the file for the parts? Could you or someone help me out please?
Thanks!
I love these types of videos really getting a bang for your buck.
Small tip, I would recommend not putting the direct link to the parts printed as GW looks for these types of videos and will expunged the files if they can.
Oh snap I didn't know, I can easily remove the link.
Thanks for the heads up :)
I love this, genuinely helping each other out .Way to go mate👍🏼
@@alkeminiskan you send me the link or a Google drive to the files? Wann to print my Wife 2 additional KoS but cant find them anywhere.
Nice video mate. That "Australia tax" sucks :-/ But good choice of a printer. I recently upgraded/added a Saturn 8k beside my old Mars Pro and it was my best decision recently :-)
Ooooo fantastic!
I am looking at the Saturn 8k as well, especially for that 10" build plate. Who can say no to something like that!
Great Content, thanks for Sharing. Im thinking about buying a printer 2😊
Heck yes!
@@alkeminis Said. Done. Bought a anycubic Photon M3 😅😁🤟
Alternatively, just print 5+ KoS.
If that's what you choose to do, more power to you XD
That Keeper model is way too expensive
I really agree.
My wallet cried when I bought it.
New subscriber here. I can't find the file links.
Hi, yeah, unfortunately it was recommended to me that I DON'T include the links to the files that I use in case The Overlords decide to try to have them removed.
The best that I can do is to point you in the direction of cults3d and myminifactory as they both can be searched via keywords.
Thats how I originally found them.
Wheres the link? Or am i having a boy look?
He removed the link as GW is looking for this kind of "help" and shuts down the creators of these files.
@@AgnostosTheos1 ah right. Should have guessed
Yes, exactly what was said above me. I don't want to get any of the lovely and talented sculptors in trouble due to a mistake like that. 😕
I don't know he didn't tell me
(3)
It was shown, maybe not Told as I cut that part from the script. Next time I'll make sure to keep that part in.
What? You set your alarm to the time your slicer gave you, instead of the time your printer said when you started the print? How/why would you do that?
Anyway. The estimate is wrong because the slicer doesn't take the specific kinematics of your printer into account.