I built an access panel a few years ago similar to this, and have a bit of advice for those watching this video wanting to do the same. Note, I didn't watch this video when I built mine and have learned from trial and error. First, if your access panel is large, maybe any larger than the one pictured in this video, the full 2x4 frame can actually get quite heavy for some family members to lift and remove. I have opted to rebuild my access panel with the frame pieces only in the corners and long side to reduce the weight. Second, the part sticking up that this video shows at the beginning is absolutely crucial. I didn't have this in my first attempt, and the pressure change from the furnace / AC kicking on actually sent the access panel crashing to the ground more than once. You need those frame corners sticking up at least 1/4 inch or more above the access door to hold it in place during pressure changes. The casing board around to trim it up will hold it in place the opposite way. Third, it might seem like a good idea to cut a hole and then use the same piece of drywall as the door, because it will be a snug fit. As briefly mentioned in this video, you actually want it a bit loose. This is so that you can maneuver it to lift and remove the panel, otherwise that tight fit will get in your way and you'll practically break the trim pieces trying to get it off the wall. I trimmed around 1/2 inch from the top of mine. When measuring, be sure your frame extends that extra 1/2 inch! Finally, if you're using a piece of drywall, the sides and top of the drywall piece will just be gypsum, and will crumble to the touch. If you ever accidentally drop the panel or put it down rough, there's a chance it will just break. I found that painting the edge around the panel helps seal it very well, and prevents dust from crumbling off every time you move the panel. One additional step I eventually took was using bondo on the corners only. It hardens like a rock and made them very strong / break free, as this was an issue on mine after a few times the panel fell due to pressure changes. I wouldn't recommend the bondo for everyone, but it depends on how you plan on trimming it I guess, or if you want your piece of drywall to be more secure.
Sounds like you have an awesome little helper there. It’s awesome to see you including him on vids. Especially showing him a trade. I wish I had learned that early. You should include him more.
Great video sir. The panel looks amazing! My wife and I very much enjoyed the fact that you did not cut the parts out that had your camera man talking. It is very endearing!
I was planning to build a 4'x3' access door using old closet doors but after see this video, I like your drywall panel idea a lot better. So you sir deserve a Like!
I've been agonising over the best way to do an access panel - was originally thinking a repurposed closet door but I love the simplicity of this idea! Your camera-person and your directorial instructions to them were classic! Bravo (pun intended) to you both!!!
The easiest to follow and understand. Feeling confident enough to try this for myself. Watched at least 6 videos that left me with questions but this one didn't. Thanks!
I agree, we’ll done and very clear. I just bought a small condo and the water heater in under the kitchen island. How the inspector found it is beyond me, but he had to cut the Sheetrock out to get to it. I’ll use the video to repair abs maintain future access. And I can add matching trim “faux” doors to tie it all together. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the help brother. I just built the very same panel. You saved me $200 on buying a closet door that would have looked out of place. That design is simple, effective and well explained. You get a like, a suscribe, a share and a bell hit. Well done sir!
For a hidden access panel you could put the Sheetrock on and then have a mirror cut to the same size and frame it in. Then people would just think it’s a wall mirror.
I like this. Need to do something like this for access to my air handler. Getting tired over removing trim boards and a section of sheetrock every time in need to get to it. Thanks!
Thanks for the vid. Clever use of an LBV too - I'd not seen that before and made me chuckle. Coincides with the channel name, and would have infinite customization.
I cut out two access holes (24x19" (above the bathtub) and 33x16" (above the door to the bathroom in the master bedroom)) to monitor termite activity after I treat the walls there inside w/Termidor. I think to use this clever method to make the access panels. Can I use Poplar 0.75x2.5x as needed" inside and frame it w/0.25x2.5"x as needed" outside. The walls are painted and stencilled, so I think if I use those thin poplar pieces w/thickness 0.25", the panels will be less visible (I'll paint and stencill the edges of those panels same way as walls). I'll do 4-6 screws into the studs in addition, but still not sure if I can use so thin wood for framing. Thank you so much for such a clever idea for the access panels. I cut another access hole (16 x 16") to monitor the second bathtub for possible leaks or smth and planned to hang the door from the drywall on hinges. But the method shown in this film is so much better.
Great idea and nicely done. However, one caution: I don't think this will work on a load bearing wall if opening is to be wider than existing stud spacing. This solution requires that a header is not used, since space is needed for the two extended 2x4's. Great idea for a non-load bearing wall. I plan to use this in an upcoming project.
man this is an excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. One question for you. On the top trim piece where/how do you decide to put the 45 deg cut? I know you only want like 1/2" lip on the trim but I dont understand where to put the 45. Thanks!
Suggestion: To avoid the possible top slide-in conflict (which I did experience) from a tight fit, use a 5/8" drywall section rather than the same 1/2" wall thickness. But also a thin shim of material will work too, such as thick tape.
Thanks so much, I left a comment to another reply about how clearly you explain the process and I appreciate the video. I also have a question, my opening will be much smaller, is it necessary to use 2x4 and frame out the entire pieces of drywall? Could I use scrap pallet wood and just put the base pieces and the upper side/ears on the back. Would that be enough to hold it in place? It would definitely make it lighter. Since I don’t foresee having to access the water heater often, I’m not sure I need such a robust framing behind. Thanks for your reply.
Unfortunately you would need something that is at least 1" wide to screw into... and it would need to go from top to bottom. The drywall is too flimsy to not have some sort of support.
Hey brother, great video! Question for a newbie to the home building. How did you manage such perfect cuts in your drywall? Or was the door space thought of before hand? I have my drywall up and need to cut the hole so would you have any idea how to make such perfect cuts?
www.lowes.com/pd/2-1-2-in-x-12-ft-Pine-Primed-Finger-Joint-Chair-Rail-Moulding-Actual-2-5-in-x-12-ft/1000256159 Its.just a simple chair rail molding... i linked.the one i used however even a door & window casing will work
@@bravocompanyhomeimprovemen8742 could I please ask if you could repeat the measurements of ends of the board past the top board. You said 2 inches but it looks longer than that. I’m asking about the measurement of the ends of the board past the top plate that will hold the panel from falling out at the top. I am sorry if I seem to be second guessing you. It just looks like more than 2 inches. Thanks in advance and this idea helped me figure out how I want to finish off my access instead of having some custom door made.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D3 | Fall | ถ้าเล่นไม่ดี ไปแก้ตัววันเสาร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CTmci32hvP8/mqdefault.jpg)
I built an access panel a few years ago similar to this, and have a bit of advice for those watching this video wanting to do the same. Note, I didn't watch this video when I built mine and have learned from trial and error.
First, if your access panel is large, maybe any larger than the one pictured in this video, the full 2x4 frame can actually get quite heavy for some family members to lift and remove. I have opted to rebuild my access panel with the frame pieces only in the corners and long side to reduce the weight.
Second, the part sticking up that this video shows at the beginning is absolutely crucial. I didn't have this in my first attempt, and the pressure change from the furnace / AC kicking on actually sent the access panel crashing to the ground more than once. You need those frame corners sticking up at least 1/4 inch or more above the access door to hold it in place during pressure changes. The casing board around to trim it up will hold it in place the opposite way.
Third, it might seem like a good idea to cut a hole and then use the same piece of drywall as the door, because it will be a snug fit. As briefly mentioned in this video, you actually want it a bit loose. This is so that you can maneuver it to lift and remove the panel, otherwise that tight fit will get in your way and you'll practically break the trim pieces trying to get it off the wall. I trimmed around 1/2 inch from the top of mine. When measuring, be sure your frame extends that extra 1/2 inch!
Finally, if you're using a piece of drywall, the sides and top of the drywall piece will just be gypsum, and will crumble to the touch. If you ever accidentally drop the panel or put it down rough, there's a chance it will just break. I found that painting the edge around the panel helps seal it very well, and prevents dust from crumbling off every time you move the panel. One additional step I eventually took was using bondo on the corners only. It hardens like a rock and made them very strong / break free, as this was an issue on mine after a few times the panel fell due to pressure changes. I wouldn't recommend the bondo for everyone, but it depends on how you plan on trimming it I guess, or if you want your piece of drywall to be more secure.
Sounds like you have an awesome little helper there. It’s awesome to see you including him on vids. Especially showing him a trade. I wish I had learned that early. You should include him more.
Great video sir. The panel looks amazing! My wife and I very much enjoyed the fact that you did not cut the parts out that had your camera man talking. It is very endearing!
Thank you I actually prior to uploading thought I had cut it out... found out differently after the fact lol.
I was planning to build a 4'x3' access door using old closet doors but after see this video, I like your drywall panel idea a lot better. So you sir deserve a Like!
Damn. This is way easier than trying to tape, mud, sand, more mud then more sand, prime then a full paint job. Great idea
With respect to how-to build vertical access panel, this is the best one that I have seen. Well done sir!
I've watched a few of these access panel "how to" videos and yours definitely looks the nicest!
Thanks I appreciate that!
I've been agonising over the best way to do an access panel - was originally thinking a repurposed closet door but I love the simplicity of this idea! Your camera-person and your directorial instructions to them were classic! Bravo (pun intended) to you both!!!
The easiest to follow and understand. Feeling confident enough to try this for myself. Watched at least 6 videos that left me with questions but this one didn't. Thanks!
Very happy that this was able to help you out! I try to make good content that is easy to follow.
I agree, we’ll done and very clear. I just bought a small condo and the water heater in under the kitchen island. How the inspector found it is beyond me, but he had to cut the Sheetrock out to get to it. I’ll use the video to repair abs maintain future access. And I can add matching trim “faux” doors to tie it all together. Thanks so much!
Dude if I could come there and hug you I would. You have solved such a big problem for me!!!! Hurrah to you mate!
Thank you! We have a five foot by 30? Inch opening and this solves my access door problem.
Thank you! For this easy explanation and your kid is very cute helping out dad!
Thanks for the help brother.
I just built the very same panel.
You saved me $200 on buying a closet door that would have looked out of place.
That design is simple, effective and well explained.
You get a like, a suscribe, a share and a bell hit.
Well done sir!
Pretty slick idea. I need to make 2 small access panels for emergency lines shutoffs in my laundry room. Something like this will work nicely.
Very clever. This solves our need for an access panel to our plumbing stack. Thank YOU!
I love that you are having your kiddo help you. 😀 I don't have the patience 😓
Love your sweet little helper’s intentions !!!
Camera person was on point. Thank you was looking for way to seal my entertainment center wall
Absolutely ingenious. No hinges or door nobs needed!! ❤
For a hidden access panel you could put the Sheetrock on and then have a mirror cut to the same size and frame it in. Then people would just think it’s a wall mirror.
I like this. Need to do something like this for access to my air handler. Getting tired over removing trim boards and a section of sheetrock every time in need to get to it. Thanks!
Hey WOW , Really like the way you did that , Will use your idea on some tub access opening . Thanks for taking the time to help others .
Great video, I used this to make a shower plumbing access door. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I have to cover the master water shut off and they don't make panels that cover the measurements I need. This helps nicely.
"Go!"
Nice fun video, thanks!
"Someone's calling you." 😁
Nice video. Thanks
Thanks for the vid. Clever use of an LBV too - I'd not seen that before and made me chuckle. Coincides with the channel name, and would have infinite customization.
Thank you sir ! The best idea for a acces door.
I cut out two access holes (24x19" (above the bathtub) and 33x16" (above the door to the bathroom in the master bedroom)) to monitor termite activity after I treat the walls there inside w/Termidor. I think to use this clever method to make the access panels. Can I use Poplar 0.75x2.5x as needed" inside and frame it w/0.25x2.5"x as needed" outside. The walls are painted and stencilled, so I think if I use those thin poplar pieces w/thickness 0.25", the panels will be less visible (I'll paint and stencill the edges of those panels same way as walls). I'll do 4-6 screws into the studs in addition, but still not sure if I can use so thin wood for framing. Thank you so much for such a clever idea for the access panels. I cut another access hole (16 x 16") to monitor the second bathtub for possible leaks or smth and planned to hang the door from the drywall on hinges. But the method shown in this film is so much better.
What a great video. Thanks for this! Need access to my shut off valves for a shower and this is a great idea. 👍🏼
This will do nicely to cover my small 24'' x 30'' attic access in my bonus room above the garage.
I like that better than the plastic doors for like a water access. I think I will do that in my closet so can access the bathtub faucet etc.
Clever idea and solid execution!
Cam girl stole the show I hope you paid her accordingly
Wow amazing how easy u made this n how great n functioning it is
That’s awesome!
Looks great, thanks for sharing!
thumbs up on being ready to fight off the taliban while installing access panels!
Great very helpful. Great camera person too!
Love your camera people!!!!!!
Nice and simple. Love it!
Great idea and nicely done. However, one caution: I don't think this will work on a load bearing wall if opening is to be wider than existing stud spacing. This solution requires that a header is not used, since space is needed for the two extended 2x4's. Great idea for a non-load bearing wall. I plan to use this in an upcoming project.
I like using the coffee canister to hold the screws
Great Idea! Thanks. Will definitely be using this. Any ideas on a ceiling access panel?
Exactly what I need. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for this...exactly what I need👍
man this is an excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. One question for you. On the top trim piece where/how do you decide to put the 45 deg cut? I know you only want like 1/2" lip on the trim but I dont understand where to put the 45. Thanks!
Just what I needed thanks bro!
at 8:20 , the Dad look! :)
Awsome idea! Easy and budget friendly.
Suggestion: To avoid the possible top slide-in conflict (which I did experience) from a tight fit, use a 5/8" drywall section rather than the same 1/2" wall thickness. But also a thin shim of material will work too, such as thick tape.
Thanks so much, I left a comment to another reply about how clearly you explain the process and I appreciate the video. I also have a question, my opening will be much smaller, is it necessary to use 2x4 and frame out the entire pieces of drywall? Could I use scrap pallet wood and just put the base pieces and the upper side/ears on the back. Would that be enough to hold it in place? It would definitely make it lighter. Since I don’t foresee having to access the water heater often, I’m not sure I need such a robust framing behind. Thanks for your reply.
Unfortunately you would need something that is at least 1" wide to screw into... and it would need to go from top to bottom. The drywall is too flimsy to not have some sort of support.
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful.
Cool! Nice job!
Yea but what keeps te bottom from popping out
Got the big helper holding the camera...hehehe
Great video!
Thanks! Very helpful.
Great idea, thank!
Hey brother, great video! Question for a newbie to the home building. How did you manage such perfect cuts in your drywall? Or was the door space thought of before hand? I have my drywall up and need to cut the hole so would you have any idea how to make such perfect cuts?
I use an oscillating multi-tool, use a straightedge to make the lines then cut them with the multi-tool.
Good idea 👍
Is this man going to war or putting in a access panel
lol 8:13 A men thank you camera girl lol
Good job!!!
Good idea 👌
Is that 2.5 inch trim it looks bigger
very nice video and I will use this method for my attic door access. Can u pls share the link for 2 1/2 inch trim board you are using?
www.lowes.com/pd/2-1-2-in-x-12-ft-Pine-Primed-Finger-Joint-Chair-Rail-Moulding-Actual-2-5-in-x-12-ft/1000256159
Its.just a simple chair rail molding... i linked.the one i used however even a door & window casing will work
@@bravocompanyhomeimprovemen8742 could I please ask if you could repeat the measurements of ends of the board past the top board. You said 2 inches but it looks longer than that. I’m asking about the measurement of the ends of the board past the top plate that will hold the panel from falling out at the top. I am sorry if I seem to be second guessing you. It just looks like more than 2 inches. Thanks in advance and this idea helped me figure out how I want to finish off my access instead of having some custom door made.
Thanks!
Cool Video, thnx!
I have a similar setup under my stairs but much smaller without the 2x4s. What type of hinges could you use for this setup to make access easier?
Given the area is narrow and you have to squeeze through already
you might be able to use a piano hinge but I think the frame work would not allow it to open.
She's so cute don't tell her to "shhh"!
i like this because of the kid.
😂 Stop making that noise…(kid continues making noise) Great tutorial and looks like you’ll need a tripod in your future;)
How do you get it off? Thank you!
Great video by the way!!
Drywall a couple studs... $300 door
Guess I'll make it out of pallets 😐
Nice
Jeez put your damn camera on a tripod. just couldn't watch anymore
Please level your audio.