It takes time to learn how to avoid mistakes on the Lathe and Mill and you don't want to wait until you are working in things you can't afford to fail on. You can get steel offcuts for free and practice on them.
@Charles Easterling he's got a demanding full time job. If he could live on TH-cam\patreon money, he'd be able to quit and would have way more time at his hands.
Try to organize the mess of wiring and remove the unused power supply. With everything organized it will make your life a lot easier when in need of trouble shooting. Great content, keep moving forward and I can't wait to to see the engine make some power!!!
I love cleaning cable/wire pacs. There is nothing more satisfieing that turning a birds nest into a neatly organized strand... I ussualy do it on cars and bikes but that cnc seams doable
its good to do that ofcourse but, for atleats me theres always a dillemma- fix/upgrade machine or continue with the project.... because time is ticking
I have a Fadal CNC, and if I were going to machine that cylinder, I would setup a boring head to do the cylinder bore, then use a boring cycle. I might interpolate the bore to within 1mm in diameter, but that depends on how rigid and accurate your machine is. If the machine can rough the bore out concentric to the actual bore location, then that is okay to do. If the machine can't interpolate a reasonably accurate rough bore, then it's better to try and bore it out in stages using a boring head. The boring head is going to deflect so if the rough bore is off center or is not round, the boring head will have trouble producing a nicely round bore. I would probably affix the cylinder to the table and rough machine the bottom face parallel to the table, then I would flip it over and clamp it down on that face and machine the top surface roughly parallel. After inspection of the parts to ensure the faces are parallel and square to the bore, I would clamp it down on the top of the cylinder, then finish machine the bottom face and put the bolt holes in. Then I would flip it over and bolt it down to a fixture that mimics the case of the engine and finish machine the top surface of the cylinder, including bolt holes and features. I would then do the rough machining of the bore and semi-finish (rough, semi-finish, finish are the 3 steps to most machining cycles) the bore. I would then take the cylinder off and do a final inspection of the top and bottom faces and bore, to ensure they are square, parallel, and located in the correct place. Once you are confident the bore can be finished, clamp it up using the torque plates and fixture it so you can do a finish bore. Be sure to leave material to hone it to size, then have it plated, then do your finish hone. You should hone the aluminum cylinder prior to plating to ensure the plating thickness will be consistent, so after plating the final hone will result in a cylinder with consistent plating thickness and distortion. This is how I would approach that project with the type of equipment you are using.
I don't think I would trust the rigidity of that mill for the boring, I would rather chuck it up and dial it in on a 4 jaw in the lathe and then use the biggest boring bar I could fit to make the cut.
I was thinking for a good test of how machining the metal 3d printed cylinder is going to go would be to 3d print in plastic your cylinder and machine it like you are going to use it on your engine. This could help show you how mounting it up and running the programs are going to go and see if anything needs to be tweaked to make the cuts correctly. I look forward to hearing this engine scream to full speed.
@M Bacon You are correct, I was just thinking to make sure cylinder fixtures are correct and to get a feel for how the whole process is going to go before committing to a 1 off part. I have never done anything like this and this is what went through my mind if I were to do it. I don't even own a 3d printer so when I see someone do this in there home garage they are like a rocket scientist to me. The only thing I have done is turn wrenches on cars/trucks and multimillion dollar aircraft in the military.
Great work! If your steppers are cold you can safely increase the current to reduce risk of lost steps as forces increase with feed rate. Rule of thumb is that 50 centigrades should be fine.
I used to have Denford Benchtop Mill, mine was not closed loop steppers. If the machine is cold it is more likely to loose steps due to friction. Warm machine wont loose so many. Your channel is the best.
Everyone plans to wire things cleanly but the costs to do so add up real quick and before you know it you get antsy and just want the thing to work. You get it working and just like that, wiring organizing is no longer a priority.
I have been looking into Chinese diesel heater for my workshop, they are about £100 for a 5kw, they are a good bit of kit and almost silent with a silencer/muffler fitted. One or 2 of those might be a better option than your current unit. There are about the size of a briefcase, loads of reveiw vids on YT
Yes, but be carefull cheap chinese heaters have often toxic smelly abs plastik covers in contact with the hot air.. And some have leaks inside where the lines go into the combustion chamber :) best is when u replace plastic with metal. And have a fireangel C. Monoxide warner and some oven silicone arround.. But i think the gas heater? He uses now makes too some co. ,.. no option for longterm use inside a room. Ps: if u want a silent exhaust(neighbours^^) fill a closedlid metal bucket with seramis and steelwool and feed the exhaust through it.. :)
A long time ago I rubbed MoS2 grease in a 50cc freshly bored cylinder before putting everything together, after who knows how many km the rings started ringing a bit, this motor I estimated to at least 5-6hp after I did various trickery to maintain a good low rpm(!) power (for offroading) while it would run at around 8000rpm @ 90km/h, oh, the point, the cylinder had a dark glaze with no wear, but the piston and rings had done their job. PS A hint, it was a Yamaha DT50mx sold with 2.4hp to be _lovlig_ ;) The 16mm carb (sold with 14mm) gave just a bit more rpm for higher speed, which was mostly just a bonus, I aimed for "growl" not a dentist drill.. I did a few more things too, like an experiment making a 2-chamber out of the original exhaust (so the cops would not notice, and to keep the bottom pull) plus a small clutch spring in the wider part of the intake funnel to help mix things at low rpm ok I should stop here x)
I love that you have a sense of humour about your work (2:58 for example :) ). I think some people underestimate how important it is when tackling a project like this to not take yourself too seriously and to be able to laugh at yourself and your mistakes sometimes. I really admire that in you and all that you share and I am rooting for you to succeed! Thanks for the great content and keep it up!
The power-supply that looks like it isn't hooked to anything, it could be used to double the voltage. Remove the top power supply to check for internal wiring (not exposed wires on the back) to the 2nd power supply. If if see that kind of wiring, i wouldn't be suprised to see a power supply that doesnt't do anything *OR* a power supply with "floating ground"
Find yourself an adjustable vice endstop. That or clamp something to the fixed jaw on the side. Then use that as your 0,0. Getting used to having a set home position to fixture off will help you later and save time. Same with tool height setting. I set all my tools off the table then you just have to set you z 0 when your ready to rock.
Nice video, but first tool what you need is a proper MPG pendant for the mill! Manual pulse wheel is so much more precise to zero with, and not crashing in to your part. And when circular interpolating a hole you should first drill it out if possible. No point milling when drilling is an option. It's the most fastest way to remove material.
As a general rule it is better to run higher step ratios. 2:1 theoretically gets a little more peak torque, this is only when stationary. Once you get moving the extra smoothness of higher step ratios generally makes the motors less likely to lose steps. One problem is pulse timing. Ideally at steady speed the step pulses should be exactly evenly spaced. In practice they aren't and steppers are very sensitive to timing jitter. There is always some jitter in the pulse timing and Mach3 running parallel ports directly is particularly prone to this. With micro stepping this timing jitter is averaged out to a certain extent. Mechanical resonance is also more of an issue with lower step ratios. I'd suggest trying 16:1 or 8:1. What voltage are your steppers running at? These old motors like lots of voltage. I'd suggest at least 48V assuming your drivers can handle it. They may even take 80V but you may get heating problems. If you can hold on to the motor for a couple of seconds it's fine. PS that noise at 3:40 was drive belt slip. I'm very familiar with the sound of slipping toothed belts. Try increasing the tension. They like running tight. They are also pretty sensitive to pulley alignment. If one pulley is tipped relative to the other you can have problems.
Yeah... that's utter chaos. For me and the way my mind works, that'd be a strip it all out and completely redo it to make it neat and know exactly what everything does and where it goes etc. I'd be afraid of a fire with all that mounted to wood, there's nowhere for it to ground out to.
I would love to pick you brain on small two stroke theory, not that I can add anything but to pick your brain about what you know to see if I can understand a little more about port designs, crankcase volumes etc
with every video there's something new,and your knowledge base is getting very impressive,presented in a way that other budding people can relate to,keep up the excellent work!!!
True that wiring is horrible, shouldn't be too much work to straighten it out. Wondering if the power supply in the back might have stopped working and the new one was just slapped over it? Who knows. Nice to see the new equipment getting sorted. Great video, keep em comming
A large wiring schematic, drawn full size in this case, would be very helpful. If it's working now then it would be prudent to complete the drawing before removing anything. Plenty of photos will help too when the inevitable goes wrong. There's a huge benefit to gain in your understanding of the wiring by taking the time to draw it out accurately. Next step is labelling everything correctly... Complicated wiring will become much simpler once you saw it into bite sized pieces. Watch out for noise problems being inadvertently created with parallel unshielded conductors. Further on that topic remember to only ground one end of a cable's shield. High precision positioning systems and electrical noise don't get along very well but they're manageable with a little forethought. You also want to watch out for heat related problems and many boards rely on a metal frame to sink to. I'm sure you're going to have fun. It's impressive what you've sorted out already and you've only gotten started. Best of luck with your toy.
hi dude, been watching you from the start, i know you will get it right through sheer persistence, cant wait until bonneville when you run!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The thing is if you want us to support by watching and liking to help you do it at least half time, you gonna have to up your video release rate and length of your videos. More interesting content = more money. Maybe get another project going along side this one, so when u waiting on one you can work on the other.
I was wondering why there were 2 power supplies and why the drivers were set at a lower current. Perhaps the larger unused power supply has failed and the smaller one is a replacement and not rated for the current used if all the drivers are active at the same time at full current. I was trying to see the output voltage but all I could see was a red line and an adjust voltage arrow. If you have power problems and the output voltage is 12v have a look for HP server Power Supplies on eBay. These are 12v only output, there are plenty giving 750W or 1200W for under 25 euro. You would also need a breakout box for around 10 euro. These things are incredibly reliable and extremely stable even at full power, though they are a little noisy (think hurricane force wind from the fan).
i'd like to ask you what you plan to do with the cnc on the cylinder. if your goal is to face the two faces of the cylinder (head and pump side) you should use the lathe since it can give you a better finish, or at least be more precise. i'd like olso to show you this videos made by RAI (italian state television) about Gabriele Gnani. The builds his bikes in house like you. In the videos you can see all his processes and practices. Unfortunally the videos are in italian but what he says is easily understandable by the context. Fiirst video: th-cam.com/video/3G0Q4yJ1N1I/w-d-xo.html
When i hit the lottery brother, you'll be taken care of, with every tool you need, and the time to do it aswell. I really want to see you make it happen. You are the man on two strokes, in my opinion. Can't wait to see the next video. Take care, and Happy New Year!!
Keep up the good work man. I wonder if you saw my comment about using copper for head inserts in order to be able to get more aggressive without detonating. Beryllium copper would be the choice material, they use it for valve seat inserts with titanium valves in 4stroke to cool the valves.
Your celling seems to be not sealed where the dry wall meets your plastic.That could be a issue for heat loss. Did you ever weight your exsisting motor? See if your new mill can shave more weight from your original motor? Thanks for the video.
love the content. do think about every time you move the mill it is not level anymore. and to get everything exact/precise the machine should be mounted sturdy
You need to hook up a MPG (manual pulse generator), it will make everything so easier, that you will regret why you didn't do it before. There are many different variants available from china, take a simple one with pulse wheel + step selector (x1, x10, x100) + axis selector, you don't need those fancy ones with displays and other unnecessary stuff... Also get yourself a proper edge finder, look at the rotational edge finders, they are cheap and very accurate. Forget electronic ones with the LED in it, just a simple rotational one, it is very accurate and simple...
Would it be posible to use rigid foam (as someone sugested on ig) for training, or plastic? Wood is quite contaminanting to sliding sealing oiling things
Foam and plastic can be surprisingly expensive. Wood is cheap and easy on tools with a fast feed. People say aluminium is difficult and gummy, buy so is 300 series stainless. No matter what you learn on, you'll need to figure out the characteristics of each new material you cut. BTW, for wood, I always use conventional cut. I've ever done anything more than very light cuts on metal with steppers though. I'd just cut my losses and fit an encoder.
I have not watched the full video yet, but sof ar i can give you an advice that will save a lot of money while you try to find your origins. NEVER try to fit your gage going toward your piece ( decreasing the space between piece and edge finder) instead bring your edge finder the closest to the piece as possible by eye as your gage canot fit, then increase the distance between your edge finder and your piece incrementaly until your gage fit. This way you will never pinch by accident ( what happened at 2:59). Keep doing your video, you're entertaining !
You know that wiring board? Hose it down for a good 10 - 15 minutes then throw 20 kilo of salt at it. Leave for 24 hours then mist the salt thoroughly and leave the whole damned thing to heal for a year or two.
Machines are just tools, you'll learn to use the tool when you find you really need it, there's no other way.
Better practice with the tool on scrapes before you need to use on a one of piece
Practice makes perfect, don't wait until your life depends on it....
It takes time to learn how to avoid mistakes on the Lathe and Mill and you don't want to wait until you are working in things you can't afford to fail on.
You can get steel offcuts for free and practice on them.
@Charles Easterling he's got a demanding full time job. If he could live on TH-cam\patreon money, he'd be able to quit and would have way more time at his hands.
*This is the way intensifies*
Try to organize the mess of wiring and remove the unused power supply. With everything organized it will make your life a lot easier when in need of trouble shooting. Great content, keep moving forward and I can't wait to to see the engine make some power!!!
because need wiring is reliable wiring :D
I love cleaning cable/wire pacs. There is nothing more satisfieing that turning a birds nest into a neatly organized strand... I ussualy do it on cars and bikes but that cnc seams doable
To see the finished engine wait two more years of bad excuses.
its good to do that ofcourse but, for atleats me theres always a dillemma- fix/upgrade machine or continue with the project.... because time is ticking
I have a Fadal CNC, and if I were going to machine that cylinder, I would setup a boring head to do the cylinder bore, then use a boring cycle. I might interpolate the bore to within 1mm in diameter, but that depends on how rigid and accurate your machine is. If the machine can rough the bore out concentric to the actual bore location, then that is okay to do. If the machine can't interpolate a reasonably accurate rough bore, then it's better to try and bore it out in stages using a boring head. The boring head is going to deflect so if the rough bore is off center or is not round, the boring head will have trouble producing a nicely round bore.
I would probably affix the cylinder to the table and rough machine the bottom face parallel to the table, then I would flip it over and clamp it down on that face and machine the top surface roughly parallel. After inspection of the parts to ensure the faces are parallel and square to the bore, I would clamp it down on the top of the cylinder, then finish machine the bottom face and put the bolt holes in. Then I would flip it over and bolt it down to a fixture that mimics the case of the engine and finish machine the top surface of the cylinder, including bolt holes and features. I would then do the rough machining of the bore and semi-finish (rough, semi-finish, finish are the 3 steps to most machining cycles) the bore. I would then take the cylinder off and do a final inspection of the top and bottom faces and bore, to ensure they are square, parallel, and located in the correct place. Once you are confident the bore can be finished, clamp it up using the torque plates and fixture it so you can do a finish bore. Be sure to leave material to hone it to size, then have it plated, then do your finish hone. You should hone the aluminum cylinder prior to plating to ensure the plating thickness will be consistent, so after plating the final hone will result in a cylinder with consistent plating thickness and distortion.
This is how I would approach that project with the type of equipment you are using.
I don't think I would trust the rigidity of that mill for the boring, I would rather chuck it up and dial it in on a 4 jaw in the lathe and then use the biggest boring bar I could fit to make the cut.
I was thinking for a good test of how machining the metal 3d printed cylinder is going to go would be to 3d print in plastic your cylinder and machine it like you are going to use it on your engine. This could help show you how mounting it up and running the programs are going to go and see if anything needs to be tweaked to make the cuts correctly. I look forward to hearing this engine scream to full speed.
This is a really good idea. Can do a couple of test runs for small cost. Maybe A giveaway or prize with the machined plastic cylinders.
@M Bacon You are correct, I was just thinking to make sure cylinder fixtures are correct and to get a feel for how the whole process is going to go before committing to a 1 off part. I have never done anything like this and this is what went through my mind if I were to do it. I don't even own a 3d printer so when I see someone do this in there home garage they are like a rocket scientist to me. The only thing I have done is turn wrenches on cars/trucks and multimillion dollar aircraft in the military.
Great work! If your steppers are cold you can safely increase the current to reduce risk of lost steps as forces increase with feed rate. Rule of thumb is that 50 centigrades should be fine.
I used to have Denford Benchtop Mill, mine was not closed loop steppers. If the machine is cold it is more likely to loose steps due to friction. Warm machine wont loose so many. Your channel is the best.
Press the "TAB" key and slow the jog speed down for setting up.
Everyone plans to wire things cleanly but the costs to do so add up real quick and before you know it you get antsy and just want the thing to work. You get it working and just like that, wiring organizing is no longer a priority.
Thanks for the video! Practice on some metal work pieces before diving in on the printed part. Chatter is real.
I want to hear 2stroke power band noises !!!!!
Ah the wire jungles we get ourselves lost in at times.. Wish I was there to help out.. good luck brother
I wonder if you are the techiest kindergarten teacher out there :D
You'll be doing it for the rest of your life, one day at a time. Always learnding!
Happy new year, onwards and upwards!
I have been looking into Chinese diesel heater for my workshop, they are about £100 for a 5kw, they are a good bit of kit and almost silent with a silencer/muffler fitted. One or 2 of those might be a better option than your current unit. There are about the size of a briefcase, loads of reveiw vids on YT
Yes, but be carefull cheap chinese heaters have often toxic smelly abs plastik covers in contact with the hot air.. And some have leaks inside where the lines go into the combustion chamber :) best is when u replace plastic with metal. And have a fireangel C. Monoxide warner and some oven silicone arround.. But i think the gas heater? He uses now makes too some co. ,.. no option for longterm use inside a room. Ps: if u want a silent exhaust(neighbours^^) fill a closedlid metal bucket with seramis and steelwool and feed the exhaust through it.. :)
A long time ago I rubbed MoS2 grease in a 50cc freshly bored cylinder before putting everything together, after who knows how many km the rings started ringing a bit, this motor I estimated to at least 5-6hp after I did various trickery to maintain a good low rpm(!) power (for offroading) while it would run at around 8000rpm @ 90km/h, oh, the point, the cylinder had a dark glaze with no wear, but the piston and rings had done their job.
PS
A hint, it was a Yamaha DT50mx sold with 2.4hp to be _lovlig_ ;)
The 16mm carb (sold with 14mm) gave just a bit more rpm for higher speed, which was mostly just a bonus, I aimed for "growl" not a dentist drill.. I did a few more things too, like an experiment making a 2-chamber out of the original exhaust (so the cops would not notice, and to keep the bottom pull) plus a small clutch spring in the wider part of the intake funnel to help mix things at low rpm ok I should stop here x)
I love that you have a sense of humour about your work (2:58 for example :) ). I think some people underestimate how important it is when tackling a project like this to not take yourself too seriously and to be able to laugh at yourself and your mistakes sometimes. I really admire that in you and all that you share and I am rooting for you to succeed! Thanks for the great content and keep it up!
I love the fr legends look on the thumbnails
Looking much happier at attempting your goals and targets!!! good Job
Out of whack is now my new favorite expression.
The power-supply that looks like it isn't hooked to anything, it could be used to double the voltage.
Remove the top power supply to check for internal wiring (not exposed wires on the back) to the 2nd power supply.
If if see that kind of wiring, i wouldn't be suprised to see a power supply that doesnt't do anything *OR* a power supply with "floating ground"
I like rally cars. I am not sure what you were talking about much but I think you are really smart. And I like rally cars. Keep up the good work!
😂 Rally cars!
Find yourself an adjustable vice endstop. That or clamp something to the fixed jaw on the side. Then use that as your 0,0. Getting used to having a set home position to fixture off will help you later and save time. Same with tool height setting. I set all my tools off the table then you just have to set you z 0 when your ready to rock.
Nice video, but first tool what you need is a proper MPG pendant for the mill! Manual pulse wheel is so much more precise to zero with, and not crashing in to your part. And when circular interpolating a hole you should first drill it out if possible. No point milling when drilling is an option. It's the most fastest way to remove material.
I drop everything to see what you're thinking and doing, 2021 is your year!
Why are people giving this video a thumbs down? I don’t understand.
Looks like you are making great progress in learning your mill! Congratulations!
"PERFECT!" made me laugh really hard. This is a great investment in time and money, looking forward to seeing what you create with it.
Greetings from Finland! Happy new year! Interesting to see how this cnc is build.
Awesome presentation, thank you. Have you tried case hardening your wood?
You mean for making a nicalsil plated hardened precision wood most powerfull twostroke engine? 😜
Lol. This is setup perfectly for a lewd reply
@@nathanchalecki4842 Hahahahaaha Good point, the fact that's he's using tool wood just compounds the humor.
Surely the tool grade wood needs flame hardening.
I harden my wood with a gentle rub. THERE I DID IT
"precision ground tool wood" 😂👌🏼 Where can you buy it? Close to the place where you can buy the infamous "gear sand"? 😜
Happy new year too.
Leaps and bounds now, it'll all turn out spot on.
Cool to see CNC stuff on here. Don't forget about that DIY dyno setup
As a general rule it is better to run higher step ratios. 2:1 theoretically gets a little more peak torque, this is only when stationary. Once you get moving the extra smoothness of higher step ratios generally makes the motors less likely to lose steps.
One problem is pulse timing. Ideally at steady speed the step pulses should be exactly evenly spaced. In practice they aren't and steppers are very sensitive to timing jitter. There is always some jitter in the pulse timing and Mach3 running parallel ports directly is particularly prone to this. With micro stepping this timing jitter is averaged out to a certain extent. Mechanical resonance is also more of an issue with lower step ratios. I'd suggest trying 16:1 or 8:1.
What voltage are your steppers running at? These old motors like lots of voltage. I'd suggest at least 48V assuming your drivers can handle it. They may even take 80V but you may get heating problems. If you can hold on to the motor for a couple of seconds it's fine.
PS that noise at 3:40 was drive belt slip. I'm very familiar with the sound of slipping toothed belts. Try increasing the tension. They like running tight. They are also pretty sensitive to pulley alignment. If one pulley is tipped relative to the other you can have problems.
Yeah... that's utter chaos. For me and the way my mind works, that'd be a strip it all out and completely redo it to make it neat and know exactly what everything does and where it goes etc. I'd be afraid of a fire with all that mounted to wood, there's nowhere for it to ground out to.
I would love to pick you brain on small two stroke theory, not that I can add anything but to pick your brain about what you know to see if I can understand a little more about port designs, crankcase volumes etc
Gotta say, this may be my favorite TH-cam channel. Keep up the good work!
Good luck on your 2021 goals my friend, I hope to see your brand/name become well known soon.
Happy New Year! So good to see you doing your thing. I can smell the pine all the way to my neck of the woods!
with every video there's something new,and your knowledge base is getting very impressive,presented in a way that other budding people can relate to,keep up the excellent work!!!
i like the fact that the CNC sounds like R2D2
I’ve been watching this series for far too long now I’m getting anxious for this thing to get on a bike 😂
A good custom Woodstove would heat your shop silently and comfortably
You should program so that the mill takes all the cut in the same direction when you face the top side. Not let it take cuts both way.
Check z height after a long run. If the machine is cold you might get noticable thermal expansion.
Thanks Man, Happy New Year to you too!
True that wiring is horrible, shouldn't be too much work to straighten it out. Wondering if the power supply in the back might have stopped working and the new one was just slapped over it? Who knows. Nice to see the new equipment getting sorted. Great video, keep em comming
A large wiring schematic, drawn full size in this case, would be very helpful. If it's working now then it would be prudent to complete the drawing before removing anything. Plenty of photos will help too when the inevitable goes wrong. There's a huge benefit to gain in your understanding of the wiring by taking the time to draw it out accurately. Next step is labelling everything correctly...
Complicated wiring will become much simpler once you saw it into bite sized pieces. Watch out for noise problems being inadvertently created with parallel unshielded conductors. Further on that topic remember to only ground one end of a cable's shield. High precision positioning systems and electrical noise don't get along very well but they're manageable with a little forethought. You also want to watch out for heat related problems and many boards rely on a metal frame to sink to. I'm sure you're going to have fun. It's impressive what you've sorted out already and you've only gotten started. Best of luck with your toy.
The wiring just needs a nice flat cover to hide it. It will fix it right up. But if you do put a cover make sure it has a fan to cool it.
You seem excited and full of energy, love it! Keep up the good work
I have waited! Excitement!
hi dude, been watching you from the start, i know you will get it right through sheer persistence, cant wait until bonneville when you run!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The tool is the master, you obey it.
yes
The thing is if you want us to support by watching and liking to help you do it at least half time, you gonna have to up your video release rate and length of your videos. More interesting content = more money.
Maybe get another project going along side this one, so when u waiting on one you can work on the other.
Absolutely love watching. Hopefully you can go full time so you can follow your dreams and we can watch your videos more frequently
next video, The Most Powerful CNC Machine 😁
I can sympathise. I spent the holidays trying to resurrect a disused 4-year old 3D printer. Best of luck!
Yep, always assume that previous holder did stupide things and check everything yourself.
This rule apply for Tools, Vehicules, everything!
I was wondering why there were 2 power supplies and why the drivers were set at a lower current. Perhaps the larger unused power supply has failed and the smaller one is a replacement and not rated for the current used if all the drivers are active at the same time at full current. I was trying to see the output voltage but all I could see was a red line and an adjust voltage arrow.
If you have power problems and the output voltage is 12v have a look for HP server Power Supplies on eBay. These are 12v only output, there are plenty giving 750W or 1200W for under 25 euro. You would also need a breakout box for around 10 euro. These things are incredibly reliable and extremely stable even at full power, though they are a little noisy (think hurricane force wind from the fan).
i'd like to ask you what you plan to do with the cnc on the cylinder. if your goal is to face the two faces of the cylinder (head and pump side) you should use the lathe since it can give you a better finish, or at least be more precise. i'd like olso to show you this videos made by RAI (italian state television) about Gabriele Gnani. The builds his bikes in house like you. In the videos you can see all his processes and practices. Unfortunally the videos are in italian but what he says is easily understandable by the context. Fiirst video: th-cam.com/video/3G0Q4yJ1N1I/w-d-xo.html
The tird video is the one i'd like to point out th-cam.com/video/eaVZD35R9Ks/w-d-xo.html
Yay, more experimental jazz solos!
Wow that mill is really nice
Maybe not the tool a problem but the operator !!
The second power supply is a back up and also for trouble shooting
When i hit the lottery brother, you'll be taken care of, with every tool you need, and the time to do it aswell. I really want to see you make it happen. You are the man on two strokes, in my opinion. Can't wait to see the next video. Take care, and Happy New Year!!
Keep up the good work man.
I wonder if you saw my comment about using copper for head inserts in order to be able to get more aggressive without detonating. Beryllium copper would be the choice material, they use it for valve seat inserts with titanium valves in 4stroke to cool the valves.
Your celling seems to be not sealed where the dry wall meets your plastic.That could be a issue for heat loss. Did you ever weight your exsisting motor? See if your new mill can shave more weight from your original motor? Thanks for the video.
Happy New Year!
I like you, my crazy inventor ;)
Nice video
Happy New year and good to see your CNC machining getting more better.
love the content. do think about every time you move the mill it is not level anymore. and to get everything exact/precise the machine should be mounted sturdy
Always love your videos
Put a little stop overhanging on one of your vice faces, semi permanently. Then you won't have to keep locating parts.
cool, nice to see progress mate. you must have learnt a lot in the last year? well done.
You need to hook up a MPG (manual pulse generator), it will make everything so easier, that you will regret why you didn't do it before. There are many different variants available from china, take a simple one with pulse wheel + step selector (x1, x10, x100) + axis selector, you don't need those fancy ones with displays and other unnecessary stuff...
Also get yourself a proper edge finder, look at the rotational edge finders, they are cheap and very accurate. Forget electronic ones with the LED in it, just a simple rotational one, it is very accurate and simple...
When it comes to working with metal on that machine. Try to collect your shavings to melt down for more shenanigans 🤘
Best of luck! 2stoke 4 the win!
Thesound it makes is amazing haha
You should try using hard maple instead of pine for test pieces. Best of luck! 🤠
Would it be posible to use rigid foam (as someone sugested on ig) for training, or plastic? Wood is quite contaminanting to sliding sealing oiling things
Foam and plastic can be surprisingly expensive. Wood is cheap and easy on tools with a fast feed. People say aluminium is difficult and gummy, buy so is 300 series stainless. No matter what you learn on, you'll need to figure out the characteristics of each new material you cut.
BTW, for wood, I always use conventional cut.
I've ever done anything more than very light cuts on metal with steppers though. I'd just cut my losses and fit an encoder.
Blue styrofoam works very well
Awesome again!! Can't wait till the next video
Lmaooo someone had a good time with the liquor
bloody ripper mate
I have not watched the full video yet, but sof ar i can give you an advice that will save a lot of money while you try to find your origins. NEVER try to fit your gage going toward your piece ( decreasing the space between piece and edge finder) instead bring your edge finder the closest to the piece as possible by eye as your gage canot fit, then increase the distance between your edge finder and your piece incrementaly until your gage fit. This way you will never pinch by accident ( what happened at 2:59). Keep doing your video, you're entertaining !
I think you are missing some drive dogs for the spindle if you have a look at 3:20 you can see the gap. I could be wrong*
You know that wiring board? Hose it down for a good 10 - 15 minutes then throw 20 kilo of salt at it. Leave for 24 hours then mist the salt thoroughly and leave the whole damned thing to heal for a year or two.
Excellent work my friend 👍
Bonne année l amis
Your looking good mate. Happy New Year from me to you. Love from New Zealand.
Love the mad mike photo btw. hahahaha
NICE VIDEO
KIND REGARDS FROM AUSTRIA
Happy new year man.... keep going👍👍👍👍
Bra jobba! Fin cnc!
finally another video 😃
Your definition of perfect and mine may be similar :)
Grymt jobbat. Följes med spänning👍👍
Happy New Year.
Godt nytt år til deg også!
you really really need a proper probe tool for fixing work coordinates