I had an issue with my car frequently dying/stalling. it would mostly happen after I stop and then I accelerate again. somebody scanned my car and said it was a cam sensor issue. I replace it, and I found the red (5 volt) wire was frayed on my old cam sensor. could that have caused my issues?
@ADPTraining I already replaced my camshaft sensor using the WELL'S brand that i bought from autozone. It came with the synchronizer. It works well and it so easy to install the camshaft sensor with synchronizer. The size of the bolt is T30 for chevrolet tracker 2001 2.0L 2wd. I hope you upload more troubleshooting videos of different cars.
I have a 86 735i vert, everything is good until I reach about 3800 rpm's then the engine has a power loss and fire. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, the full throttle switch the mass air flow sensor crankshaft sensor ,coil spark plug,coil wire,distiboters, no luck so far, any ideas on what I should do next....rep me please thxxx
Hi, thank you for responding. It would drive just fine and then felt like it didn't get fuel or spark for just a few seconds. It did it 2 days in a row 3 times. Then my husband took it for a drive and revved up the engine and the service engine light came on. I took it to auto zone and the code came up for the crankshaft position sensor. I only got the car a week ago, so I don't know it well yet. The last time I drove it it almost didn't start.
Your car is a Suzuki Tracker and it uses a CAM arrangement which was a residual technology of the old distributor. All they did was take the distributor and slap a magnetic sensor to it. The magnetic crank sensor has one bolt. You don't need to replace the relluctor body. Yours is not the only vehicle like that. THere were others with this arrangement. If replacing the relluctor body then there are timing procedures to be done. Just change the sensor itself. Does that make sense?
Hi, thank for posting... A soldering gun is often used to trigger magnetic sensors and some Hall-Effect sensors. In other words, grab the soldering gun and hold the back of it close to the sensor and press the trigger. The pulsing magnetic field will trigger the relevant component. Good luck.
for the home person running into this video keep in mind that if the engine is giving the code simply replace the part. If you go into a mechanic they will tear you apart. Much easier to just replace it. For a person to do this testing--your going to pay dearly for that and likely not get your car back. Knock sensor in the range of a $50 fix same for crankshaft position sensor. The cam sensor likely could mean replacing the distributor but once you do they are free for the life of the car. To walk in front of any shop they are going to charge you hundreds then hundreds more if they do anything.
@MrSate11ite OK, good description. The first thing that comes to mind is a semi-clogged catalytic converter. If so then the symptoms are the same. Second is a blind spot on the MAF sensor. You said you've checked it, double check it. To check the converter just unbolt the spring loaded bolts to the exhaust manifold. It shouldn't be too hard to do. Do that and post back whenever possible. Good luck.
wen i start my tahoe 97 it sound like its not gona turn on like it cranks slow n lazy bt does turn on n also been having a missfire constantly on #7 n spark seem as new any body know wat it cud be i changed al last is crank n cam sensors
@ADPTraining The camshaft sensor of my chevrolet tracker has a magnetic coil. 2 times already that i used different brands of the camshaft sensor but the car didn't start. I think there's something wrong with the magnetic coil. It has 3 wire in my sensor
You're going to need to get a CAM and CRK signal waveform and see how they correlate to each other. If it's intermittent then timing belt is ok. Yes, there's a possibility of a CAM signal issue, but I need more info on the matter. Post back with more, but be sure to get a signal scope printout. Thanks for posting.
@ADPTraining I did replace the camshaft sensor of my chevrolet tracker 2001 2.0L 2wd. It was a STANDARD brand that i used but unfortunately the car didn't start whenever i turn on the ignition switch & it gave a code P0340. Do you think i need to replace the magnetic coil together with camshaft sensor. Your reply would be appreciate.
The CAM sensor is not the issue here. Ok, there are a few possibilities, one is that another sensor shares power with the CRK sensor and it's loading the circuit, so look at the wiring diagram and ID who shares what. Two, that the ECM provided reference voltage is not there, either due to a broken wire or the ECM itself, or even the ground in missing. ECMs have many ground wires these days. Are there any other codes? Post back with more.
Hi, I just bought a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue last week. The check engine light came on yesterday so I took it to auto zone and the code for the crankshaft position sensor came up. It runs pretty good it just seems to have a problem with fuel no and then. Is it still safe to drive until I can afford to fix it? Any advice you have would be really appreciated. My husband is disabled and I am a mother of 3. Thank you. ;-)
I'll do my best to help you out. The crank code could be an intermittent or just a glitch. THe car won't run without a crank sensor. When you say it has an issue with fuel, what do you mean by that? If car running fine I suggest you clear code and drive for a while. Thanks and post again...
On the reference with test light hot to ground i get bright light, test light ground to 12 volt wire is pretty dim, sensor wire I get 5 volts... My Harley won't idle worth a crap at times and especially when hot. Hopefully you will chime in and give me your thoughts. Thanks
Ok, if 3 wire sensor then Hall Effect, power ground and signal. So test with MM accordingly. If 2 wire sensor, then magnetic. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/Toyota_Lexus_Coil_Tester_Pulser.html
if your test light was dim you have high resistance on that 12v ccircuit,you can look up voltage drop tests to isolate it as its very simple test or use the test light and move it down stream of that circuit till it lights bright again,this means you just past the high resistance so go back and forth till you pin point exactlly where the voltage drop is.most likley a connector or resistance in a connection.
@@pigeonsil240sx It doesn't matter anymore I sold it and got a real Harley. I'll ride my 73 Shovel until I fall over dead it's what a Harley should be...
@@Nickolas64 Even still your harley can face the same issues in wiring s definitely learn how to test for voltage drops as they are the top problem for wiring issues and extremely easy to learn.the most common cause of wiring problems are voltage drop.
Well, id it's a WELLs product that is a problem in itself. No auto repair shop will ever use WELLs and if so don't use them for anything on your car. When replacing the CAM sensor you don't need to reset the timing on the valves, if that's what you're asking. Pot back with what type of sensor you have, is it a two wire or a three wire... Thanks for posting.
@ADPTraining Look at the WELLS brand camshaft sensor & You will see what I'm talking about the camshaft sensor comes with a magnetic coil housing in which you will attach the camshaft sensor. The magnetic coil has a timing mark that you need to aline or you need to position your pistion no#1 TDC in order to timing the car.
When it comes to the CRANK sensor, the worse that can happen is that she's left stranded. On the fuel issue, yes, I agree it may end up costing much more later on. Issues with excessive fuel consumption almost always lead to catalytic converter destruction. If you're in a state that has no inspection then I guess its fine. But also excessive fuel consumption over longs periods of time will carbonize the engine. So do a regular oil change if you feel it's burning too much fuel. Thanks or sharing.
Thank you... We do have tons of videos on different cars, over 400 videos here on ADPTraining channel. We also have "Stories from the Road" and "How to Make Your Own Equipment". Just click ADPTraining and see the playlists. Thanks again...Mandy.
Which magnetic coil? What type of sensor is it? Is it a 2 or 3 wire sensor? Post back with more so we can guide you in the right direction. Thanks for posting.
Is there is no spark it's probably the crank sensor? If it's weak it's a camshaft sensor? Last summer when it was hot the car would not start until it cooled off. Now it's intermittent spark all the time?
This explans why i have 2 sets of different wheel speed sensor types on my car magneto ones on the front, magnetic at the back meaning two different signal types, the explanation in this video got the two sensor types mixed up because hall effect sensors are the same as magnetic, not magneto.
Thamk you for your help. This site ROCKS! Anyways, the only other code was "fuel pressure regulator sensor" (i forgot the number). The funny thing is I first perchased a new 1from Auto Zone and it turned out it was bad/much worse. In fact the so called new one was shotting gas out of the top vacuum line, so I put the old one back on. With the so called new one the car was very hard to start & would not stay running. Now the car idol just fine and it seems to run fine after it gets wormed up.
you can take the sensor out while still have harness coneccted and koeo put something metal in front of the sensor and check voltage from signal wire as you do this.the voltage will drop as the metal object gets close
However, the car still shakes alittle. Maybe the shaking is from something else but to me it seems to be either a mis fire or loading up or even maybe something bad within the front end. I just don't know.
Well, you can take a gamble and replace the CRK sensor, but it may not be the sensor itself. Other issues with the CRK sensor are power, ground, wiring, the ECM itself, etc. It's hard to deal with intermittents. I suggest you wait until it does it altogether and then concentrate on the issue. It'll do you some good to get triple A just in case you get stranded. Good luck to you.
I have a 2000 Impala 3.4 motor that right after I replaced the motor mounts (all of them) I received a code of "P0336 Crankshaft sensor". I changed the sensor and the pully (because it looked to me to be worn/in bad condition) and it still shows the saame code of "P0336". What do I do next? Could it be the Cam Senor? Or is there another Crankshaft Sensor somewhere?
its the wire than rests near the block of the engine as it exits the "armor" cable surrounding that 5v reference wire. the wire gets chafed, and keeps setting a fault code. there are other devices on that same 5v reference linen but that wire is most probable cause, get one off a junked car and install it.
hi debbiedoo102, i guess you already got some advice, but if you haven't my advice is i would drive it, i wouldn't worry about the gas wasting i would worry more about the damage that is going to do in the near future and is going to cost more money then u ever think! be careful where you take your vehicle or if you know someone that you trust will be better off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my advice as a tech!
hey i have a 08 golf 5 gti getting a p0011 error camshaft position sensor and camshaft position timing over advance. symptoms im getting is power loss and EPC light come on after 4-5k rpm then disappears. and also at times get fuel cuts. could my sensor be faulty?
Ok, you're not making sense. A 3 wire sensor is NOT magnetic, it is a Hall-Effect sensor. A 2 wire sensor is a magnetic sensor. if 3 wire, as you say, check sensor power (5, 7 or 8 volts), ground and reference voltage. Post back so we can help you better...
I had an issue with my car frequently dying/stalling. it would mostly happen after I stop and then I accelerate again. somebody scanned my car and said it was a cam sensor issue. I replace it, and I found the red (5 volt) wire was frayed on my old cam sensor. could that have caused my issues?
@ADPTraining
I already replaced my camshaft sensor using the WELL'S brand that i bought from autozone. It came with the synchronizer. It works well and it so easy to install the camshaft sensor with synchronizer. The size of the bolt is T30 for chevrolet tracker 2001 2.0L 2wd. I hope you upload more troubleshooting videos of different cars.
I have a 86 735i vert, everything is good until I reach about 3800 rpm's then the engine has a power loss and fire. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator, the full throttle switch the mass air flow sensor crankshaft sensor ,coil spark plug,coil wire,distiboters, no luck so far, any ideas on what I should do next....rep me please thxxx
Hi, thank you for responding. It would drive just fine and then felt like it didn't get fuel or spark for just a few seconds. It did it 2 days in a row 3 times. Then my husband took it for a drive and revved up the engine and the service engine light came on. I took it to auto zone and the code came up for the crankshaft position sensor. I only got the car a week ago, so I don't know it well yet. The last time I drove it it almost didn't start.
Your car is a Suzuki Tracker and it uses a CAM arrangement which was a residual technology of the old distributor. All they did was take the distributor and slap a magnetic sensor to it. The magnetic crank sensor has one bolt. You don't need to replace the relluctor body. Yours is not the only vehicle like that. THere were others with this arrangement. If replacing the relluctor body then there are timing procedures to be done. Just change the sensor itself. Does that make sense?
Hi, thank for posting... A soldering gun is often used to trigger magnetic sensors and some Hall-Effect sensors. In other words, grab the soldering gun and hold the back of it close to the sensor and press the trigger. The pulsing magnetic field will trigger the relevant component. Good luck.
for the home person running into this video keep in mind that if the engine is giving the code simply replace the part. If you go into a mechanic they will tear you apart. Much easier to just replace it. For a person to do this testing--your going to pay dearly for that and likely not get your car back. Knock sensor in the range of a $50 fix same for crankshaft position sensor. The cam sensor likely could mean replacing the distributor but once you do they are free for the life of the car. To walk in front of any shop they are going to charge you hundreds then hundreds more if they do anything.
Mitsubishi Eclipse Endeavor 2004
@MrSate11ite OK, good description. The first thing that comes to mind is a semi-clogged catalytic converter. If so then the symptoms are the same. Second is a blind spot on the MAF sensor. You said you've checked it, double check it. To check the converter just unbolt the spring loaded bolts to the exhaust manifold. It shouldn't be too hard to do. Do that and post back whenever possible. Good luck.
wen i start my tahoe 97 it sound like its not gona turn on like it cranks slow n lazy bt does turn on n also been having a missfire constantly on #7 n spark seem as new any body know wat it cud be i changed al last is crank n cam sensors
@ADPTraining
The camshaft sensor of my chevrolet tracker has a magnetic coil. 2 times already that i used different brands of the camshaft sensor but the car didn't start. I think there's something wrong with the magnetic coil. It has 3 wire in my sensor
That's right Angel, most techs forget about the C.A.R. procedure, but it's important.
what if magneto was to test the cam sensor would his body throw the magnetism off or would rolph harris wobbly his pheddo board
You're going to need to get a CAM and CRK signal waveform and see how they correlate to each other. If it's intermittent then timing belt is ok. Yes, there's a possibility of a CAM signal issue, but I need more info on the matter. Post back with more, but be sure to get a signal scope printout. Thanks for posting.
@ADPTraining
I did replace the camshaft sensor of my chevrolet tracker 2001 2.0L 2wd. It was a STANDARD brand that i used but unfortunately the car didn't start whenever i turn on the ignition switch & it gave a code P0340. Do you think i need to replace the magnetic coil together with camshaft sensor. Your reply would be appreciate.
Thanks for watching and participating...
The CAM sensor is not the issue here. Ok, there are a few possibilities, one is that another sensor shares power with the CRK sensor and it's loading the circuit, so look at the wiring diagram and ID who shares what. Two, that the ECM provided reference voltage is not there, either due to a broken wire or the ECM itself, or even the ground in missing. ECMs have many ground wires these days. Are there any other codes? Post back with more.
ADPTraining ª2000 Durango sly can sensor wire colors
Hi, I just bought a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue last week. The check engine light came on yesterday so I took it to auto zone and the code for the crankshaft position sensor came up. It runs pretty good it just seems to have a problem with fuel no and then. Is it still safe to drive until I can afford to fix it? Any advice you have would be really appreciated. My husband is disabled and I am a mother of 3. Thank you. ;-)
I'll do my best to help you out. The crank code could be an intermittent or just a glitch. THe car won't run without a crank sensor. When you say it has an issue with fuel, what do you mean by that? If car running fine I suggest you clear code and drive for a while. Thanks and post again...
Hi Mr.and Mrs I need help for my Nissan pathfinder 2002 after changing the engine it won'start...I changed crankshaft and camshaft nothing
Feel free to visit my site for help. autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com
On the reference with test light hot to ground i get bright light, test light ground to 12 volt wire is pretty dim, sensor wire I get 5 volts... My Harley won't idle worth a crap at times and especially when hot. Hopefully you will chime in and give me your thoughts. Thanks
Ok, if 3 wire sensor then Hall Effect, power ground and signal. So test with MM accordingly. If 2 wire sensor, then magnetic. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/Toyota_Lexus_Coil_Tester_Pulser.html
if your test light was dim you have high resistance on that 12v ccircuit,you can look up voltage drop tests to isolate it as its very simple test or use the test light and move it down stream of that circuit till it lights bright again,this means you just past the high resistance so go back and forth till you pin point exactlly where the voltage drop is.most likley a connector or resistance in a connection.
@@pigeonsil240sx It doesn't matter anymore I sold it and got a real Harley. I'll ride my 73 Shovel until I fall over dead it's what a Harley should be...
@@Nickolas64 Even still your harley can face the same issues in wiring s definitely learn how to test for voltage drops as they are the top problem for wiring issues and extremely easy to learn.the most common cause of wiring problems are voltage drop.
Well, id it's a WELLs product that is a problem in itself. No auto repair shop will ever use WELLs and if so don't use them for anything on your car. When replacing the CAM sensor you don't need to reset the timing on the valves, if that's what you're asking. Pot back with what type of sensor you have, is it a two wire or a three wire... Thanks for posting.
@ADPTraining
Look at the WELLS brand camshaft sensor & You will see what I'm talking about the camshaft sensor comes with a magnetic coil housing in which you will attach the camshaft sensor. The magnetic coil has a timing mark that you need to aline or you need to position your pistion no#1 TDC in order to timing the car.
When it comes to the CRANK sensor, the worse that can happen is that she's left stranded. On the fuel issue, yes, I agree it may end up costing much more later on. Issues with excessive fuel consumption almost always lead to catalytic converter destruction. If you're in a state that has no inspection then I guess its fine. But also excessive fuel consumption over longs periods of time will carbonize the engine. So do a regular oil change if you feel it's burning too much fuel. Thanks or sharing.
Thank you... We do have tons of videos on different cars, over 400 videos here on ADPTraining channel. We also have "Stories from the Road" and "How to Make Your Own Equipment". Just click ADPTraining and see the playlists. Thanks again...Mandy.
By the way - the car seems to run fine beside a little viberation - i beleave is do to front end issues or tires.
Which magnetic coil? What type of sensor is it? Is it a 2 or 3 wire sensor? Post back with more so we can guide you in the right direction. Thanks for posting.
Is there is no spark it's probably the crank sensor?
If it's weak it's a camshaft sensor?
Last summer when it was hot the car would not start until it cooled off. Now it's intermittent spark all the time?
'95 Ford 3.2 MFI DOHC
Could be a whole lot more.
I need more than that. Post detailed description of symptom, year make and model, engine size, etc, etc...Thanks.
Can someone please tell me what "gun" the computer is talking about at the end of the video ? and how it's spelled. My Audio is just fine.
send the link to this video...I'll do some research on the subject...
I neef help on a 95 3.4 camaro starts then die a ton of money later it still wont stay running help!!
What can cause an engine to have no fire to the plugs or the coil
If it has a distributor it's inside it. Otherwise it's at the front of the engine main pulley.
I suggest tweaking your audio somewhat, we rechecked and the sound is fine. Thanks for posting.
This explans why i have 2 sets of different wheel speed sensor types on my car magneto ones on the front, magnetic at the back meaning two different signal types, the explanation in this video got the two sensor types mixed up because hall effect sensors are the same as magnetic, not magneto.
Thank you
Thamk you for your help. This site ROCKS!
Anyways, the only other code was "fuel pressure regulator sensor" (i forgot the number). The funny thing is I first perchased a new 1from Auto Zone and it turned out it was bad/much worse. In fact the so called new one was shotting gas out of the top vacuum line, so I put the old one back on. With the so called new one the car was very hard to start & would not stay running.
Now the car idol just fine and it seems to run fine after it gets wormed up.
For the magnetic sensor, can we get any readings or fluctuations if we use multimeter and set it to frequency...?
Harldy any fluctuation cause the volts are very small to be measured by the multimeter
you can take the sensor out while still have harness coneccted and koeo put something metal in front of the sensor and check voltage from signal wire as you do this.the voltage will drop as the metal object gets close
However, the car still shakes alittle. Maybe the shaking is from something else but to me it seems to be either a mis fire or loading up or even maybe something bad within the front end. I just don't know.
The other possibility is a clogged catalytic converter. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and see how it runs.
is there a difference in signal with relluctor wheels that have low spots vs high spots?
The lows and highs is what creates the square wave.
But strange honda obd1 engine still can start the engine even error code 4 display ckp sensor failure, but it wont rev pass 3.5k,
How much will a 2008 v40 volvo camshaft sensior coast in SA
Well, you can take a gamble and replace the CRK sensor, but it may not be the sensor itself. Other issues with the CRK sensor are power, ground, wiring, the ECM itself, etc. It's hard to deal with intermittents. I suggest you wait until it does it altogether and then concentrate on the issue. It'll do you some good to get triple A just in case you get stranded. Good luck to you.
I have a 2000 Impala 3.4 motor that right after I replaced the motor mounts (all of them) I received a code of "P0336 Crankshaft sensor". I changed the sensor and the pully (because it looked to me to be worn/in bad condition) and it still shows the saame code of "P0336". What do I do next? Could it be the Cam Senor? Or is there another Crankshaft Sensor somewhere?
its the wire than rests near the block of the engine as it exits the "armor" cable surrounding that 5v reference wire. the wire gets chafed, and keeps setting a fault code. there are other devices on that same 5v reference linen but that wire is most probable cause, get one off a junked car and install it.
you will most likely need to do a crank relearn. if you have access to a snap-on scanner its simple. if not the you will need to take it to a shop :)
Why shouldn't we use Test Light on Signal Wire? (Signal Wire for all Sensors etc?)
Too high current at 300 to 400 mA. Signal current is in the 1-5 mA range. A TL could damage the circuit, but not always.
Does a phase sensor equal to a cmp or camshaft sensor?
Kind of yes
thanks for sharing...great tutoria..and how you make the animation?by Catia?
2004ford rangerv6 4.o
hi debbiedoo102, i guess you already got some advice, but if you haven't my advice is i would drive it, i wouldn't worry about the gas wasting i would worry more about the damage that is going to do in the near future and is going to cost more money then u ever think! be careful where you take your vehicle or if you know someone that you trust will be better off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my advice as a tech!
hey i have a 08 golf 5 gti getting a p0011 error camshaft position sensor and camshaft position timing over advance. symptoms im getting is power loss and EPC light come on after 4-5k rpm then disappears. and also at times get fuel cuts. could my sensor be faulty?
@MrSate11ite governor at 3800 rpm maby
where honda b16a2 CKP sensor location? doch vtec
Ok, you're not making sense. A 3 wire sensor is NOT magnetic, it is a Hall-Effect sensor. A 2 wire sensor is a magnetic sensor. if 3 wire, as you say, check sensor power (5, 7 or 8 volts), ground and reference voltage. Post back so we can help you better...
@ADPTraining thanks for rep dear.but same problem.
Thanks for posting, that's really all we ask...Participation....
Keep posting...THanks for sharing.
p0022 mercedes I need help may car have the code
i miss my 305 V8. so much easier working on that engine
§i alguen me pude asesoar de sensor delSiguenial del estratus 2-0 2006
Cuántos cable?
Compre el diagrama aquí...
www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/Automotive_Interactive_Wiring_Diagrams.html
?? Gun sotteringgun or what ? cant hear him ..
Thank you very much. :)
great info, but get rid of that synthesized voice over, please...
I'm hosting my recent videos. Look them up here ADPTraining
this is crankshaf not camshaft...
Work the same way, just reluctor is different. autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
it is still disturbing my car
Tes
Any 350z de owners watching thisSpecially the rev up
Yes
truc cam
gy
...just like a Hammond organ.