Wouldn't you be better putting a flexible flashing under the sill that wraps up the stud? I've never found silicone to be a great primary waterproofing material.
One positive of building in the winter months and taking your time - all the issues show up before all the decoration is done. I bet many new builds thrown up in the summer have these issues and more but don't rear their ugly head for a winter or two.
Hi Tim Put your guttering up. That will alleviate 95% of water running down the doors. You can soon unclip it to paint the fascia at a later date. By the way, I'm a builder as well as a counsellor. That would help a lot. 😊💯👍
6:47 what has caused the membrane to wear? you say PIR would transfer the moisture lower down its route, but the membrane has done that transfer, the advantage of PIR would be that you haven't got six yards of wet compacted wool. Sorry if i have missed something.
Hi Tim, we always used to put a small bead of silicone on the little up stand on the back of the cill, and then a good bead each end on the top of the cill. This was done prior to the cill being fixed to the frame, it ensures all water goes towards the cill drip.👍🏼
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks for the videos Tim, enjoy the channel and especially the roof on your old house. You worked yours nuts off on that one…. Oh and the work shop too👍🏼
When I put my double French doors in, I manufactured a sill pan from flashing aluminum. The edges were sealed with flashing tape. I've never had a leak into the house from it in 15 years.
Hi all I can’t believe you’ve not had an issue before now , with no ridge cover . Modern roofing membranes are very good but only to a point , but anyway it’s sorted now so that’s the main thing . Kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
In the US the whole door frame would have been taped/sealed... so that if any water got passed the door unit it would have a good way of draining out. Silicon sealant around the top 3 sides but the bottom left open to drain. Its really interesting watching the different approaches to building UK vs US... I learn lots. Its the first time Ive seen your videos... im already going to binge watch some history ! (yes I know, like n subscribed too LOL)
Be wary of those drains freezing over in winter and the water pooling along the edge, I would make another hole where you suggested to give any rain a better chance of escaping outside rather than inside. Good luck.
You can get endcaps that run all the way to the back of the sill and have a little upstand on them. Gutmann do some, they also have a drainage module which the sill saddles onto, channeling water out under the sill. You could have bent 90° on an offcut of the ridge flashing to sit the sill on.
Why is the opening part of the door on the inside to begin with? Seems like a massive design flaw to me. The door on my balcony slides on the outside of the static pane with no special channel for water needed.
Umm that seems an easy thing to miss with the door. One of those tips you only really see from TH-cam vids such as your own or from experience. We had a newly fully engineered roof and covering/tiles put on our barn 3years ago. We are going slow and we were about to insulate and plasterboard the roof. But realised the roof covering was getting saturated in several areas and leaking. Glad we have discovered it now but not quite sure if patching it will solve the problem. ???
Isn't there some form of waterproof self adhesive strip you can put along the underside of the sill (on the timber frame) that wraps up the side walls 100mm? Perhaps some form of flashing?
Plenty of ways to seal the sill to floor but without a full seal between sill and frame it would always find its way off the sides. I'd rather seal it off and leave it to drain off the sill than risk it getting any further. fingers crossed its sorted now. 👍
Just priorities and weather. When we put the other bits on we had a friend helping so was hoping it could wait till he was next around and then rain and wind hit hard for a couple of weeks so it wasn’t safe to go up.
There is no way that the doors should not include end-caps which provide an effective seal on the ends of the channel(s). As for the roof, isn’t the membrane effectively a fail safe because no water should get underneath the roofing sheets?
Not really required for our membrane/cladding design however unless it was a pan/flashing that also came up the inside of sill water would still make its way off the sides without the silicon.
Well, Lucky yeev'e got an understanding missus auld stockn. 😅At the end of the day things like this is always gonny happen. That's what snagging is all about. As you say yee caught them in time .Onwards and upwards.
Any reason you didn't go with odd leg windows? Sealing windows and doors to a house, especially a wooden one, is a black art. The idea of draining to a sill seems like a real weak point. I'm not sure how you'd ever seal the ends in a way that's going to last the life of the door. I don't know whether butyl mastic would do it as it only has about 5% movement tolerance although in other respects it's probably the best.
Does not seem a great design of these types of doors that they rely on silicon sealant. This will break down over time just as it does around bath seals. The materials they are made from means no maintenance yet design has built in lifespan.
Massive problem with these pvc sliding doors. Even when installed properly. The drainage holes will be blocked in 6 months with crap leaving you with forever problems
not what you want after all your hard work Tim , very poor design door frame by the manufactures to leak like that, it should of had a mechanical end stops/ plastic seals .
What an absolute garbage door assembly. Should be like that so you have to rely on caulk to do all the waterproofing..... That will leak again and needs a overkill door sill with flashing all the way innside and up on the wall 30cm high. Hope that company goes bankrupt soon so they don't destroy more homes...
@@gordonmonteith8486 I've watched a good few of Liam's step by step videos and I have to admit,when you've built as many garden rooms as he has,you gain alot of knowledge...and the mistakes get ironed out early on,he's a good teacher,no doubts about that...not sure why anyone would avoid his channel,there's some great tips.
Wouldn't you be better putting a flexible flashing under the sill that wraps up the stud? I've never found silicone to be a great primary waterproofing material.
One positive of building in the winter months and taking your time - all the issues show up before all the decoration is done. I bet many new builds thrown up in the summer have these issues and more but don't rear their ugly head for a winter or two.
Hi Tim
Put your guttering up.
That will alleviate 95% of water running down the doors.
You can soon unclip it to paint the fascia at a later date.
By the way, I'm a builder as well as a counsellor.
That would help a lot.
😊💯👍
6:47 what has caused the membrane to wear? you say PIR would transfer the moisture lower down its route, but the membrane has done that transfer, the advantage of PIR would be that you haven't got six yards of wet compacted wool. Sorry if i have missed something.
Hi Tim, we always used to put a small bead of silicone on the little up stand on the back of the cill, and then a good bead each end on the top of the cill. This was done prior to the cill being fixed to the frame, it ensures all water goes towards the cill drip.👍🏼
Yep, thats exactly what we did and so far it's thankfully sorted it all out. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks for the videos Tim, enjoy the channel and especially the roof on your old house. You worked yours nuts off on that one…. Oh and the work shop too👍🏼
When I put my double French doors in, I manufactured a sill pan from flashing aluminum. The edges were sealed with flashing tape. I've never had a leak into the house from it in 15 years.
Thank goodness you found the leaks now and not later...👏🏼
When u have a permanent dwelling on the farm, just a thought u could rip all the internal walls out of the cabin & have a bloody good workshop Tim.
Don’t give him ideas. We will need to sell it to fund the big house I think - Jo
I feel your pain, ye took so much care doing everything so well, hopefully that will be the only fail on the home....
Love the blue ceiling! ❤
Thank you!
Hi all I can’t believe you’ve not had an issue before now , with no ridge cover . Modern roofing membranes are very good but only to a point , but anyway it’s sorted now so that’s the main thing . Kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Good spot! These kinds of issues usually have a habit of showing their face after you've decorated... not talking from experience or anything
Keep an eye on them drainage holes as they are very easily blocker then the frame starts to fill with water 👍
Ooo thanks for the tip. That’s a great point.
@@TheRestorationCouple air compressor does a good job of keeping them cleaned out.
In the US the whole door frame would have been taped/sealed... so that if any water got passed the door unit it would have a good way of draining out. Silicon sealant around the top 3 sides but the bottom left open to drain. Its really interesting watching the different approaches to building UK vs US... I learn lots. Its the first time Ive seen your videos... im already going to binge watch some history ! (yes I know, like n subscribed too LOL)
😂 funny and informative.
Be wary of those drains freezing over in winter and the water pooling along the edge, I would make another hole where you suggested to give any rain a better chance of escaping outside rather than inside. Good luck.
Yeah that’s a good point about it freezing.
Love your work 👍
You can get endcaps that run all the way to the back of the sill and have a little upstand on them. Gutmann do some, they also have a drainage module which the sill saddles onto, channeling water out under the sill. You could have bent 90° on an offcut of the ridge flashing to sit the sill on.
Looks like Maggie gave her "seal of approval" after Jo tested the seal and drainage with the kettle!
Before fitting doors or windows the timber frame you should use a flashing tape.
Why is the opening part of the door on the inside to begin with? Seems like a massive design flaw to me. The door on my balcony slides on the outside of the static pane with no special channel for water needed.
I can't help feeling there should be a special shaped cap, that goes over the end of the track, to stop the leak . One on each end.
Yeah I think that’s what we thought. Don’t know if it’s poor design or just missing the pieces or if this is a common feature!
i'm so excited for you to have your first family night in there :)
Good old stixall and fixall👍😂😂😂
Is it similar installing a shower screen bdab of silicone on each corner before fitting the trims
Should bend the corrugations up as per the manufacturers specifications and that will prevent water penetration via the Ridge clapping
Bizarre that those doors don't come with end panels for drainage
what happened to the update on the ceiling??
You should always use aluminum flashing under a sliding door.
Umm that seems an easy thing to miss with the door. One of those tips you only really see from TH-cam vids such as your own or from experience. We had a newly fully engineered roof and covering/tiles put on our barn 3years ago. We are going slow and we were about to insulate and plasterboard the roof. But realised the roof covering was getting saturated in several areas and leaking. Glad we have discovered it now but not quite sure if patching it will solve the problem. ???
Takes a brave man to admit his mistake. Nobody is perfect , but when you saw the wet patch, you thought “content” 😉 😊
*booboo's
Isn't there some form of waterproof self adhesive strip you can put along the underside of the sill (on the timber frame) that wraps up the side walls 100mm? Perhaps some form of flashing?
I recall seeing on Skill Builder that a DPC was used under the frame and went up the walls at each end
Plenty of ways to seal the sill to floor but without a full seal between sill and frame it would always find its way off the sides. I'd rather seal it off and leave it to drain off the sill than risk it getting any further. fingers crossed its sorted now. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple I hope it works.
What was the reason for not putting the ridge caps on when you did the roof? It didn't take you long to put them on.... Strange.
Just priorities and weather. When we put the other bits on we had a friend helping so was hoping it could wait till he was next around and then rain and wind hit hard for a couple of weeks so it wasn’t safe to go up.
@@TheRestorationCouple That's what he told Jo, what he didn't tell her was they knocked off early to go for a few pints and forgot to do the ridge 🤣
@@C4sp3r123 😂
There is no way that the doors should not include end-caps which provide an effective seal on the ends of the channel(s). As for the roof, isn’t the membrane effectively a fail safe because no water should get underneath the roofing sheets?
Could you not have laid the door on a strip of DPC lapped up at the ends by 100mm as well as the dam?
Not really required for our membrane/cladding design however unless it was a pan/flashing that also came up the inside of sill water would still make its way off the sides without the silicon.
Mit of been good idea to flexy tape all ur openings
👍
👍
Well, Lucky yeev'e got an understanding missus auld stockn. 😅At the end of the day things like this is always gonny happen. That's what snagging is all about. As you say yee caught them in time .Onwards and upwards.
Yep in our last house we had a whole year ‘snagging’ 😂
Perhaps this is a timely reminder to get some cladding on the building, they do say these things come in threes!
Any reason you didn't go with odd leg windows?
Sealing windows and doors to a house, especially a wooden one, is a black art.
The idea of draining to a sill seems like a real weak point. I'm not sure how you'd ever seal the ends in a way that's going to last the life of the door.
I don't know whether butyl mastic would do it as it only has about 5% movement tolerance although in other respects it's probably the best.
It's not leaking, just tears overs the blue ceiling.
Does not seem a great design of these types of doors that they rely on silicon sealant. This will break down over time just as it does around bath seals. The materials they are made from means no maintenance yet design has built in lifespan.
💯 agree!
Gadzooks!
Massive problem with these pvc sliding doors. Even when installed properly. The drainage holes will be blocked in 6 months with crap leaving you with forever problems
There was no update on the bedroom leak... thats thrown out my whole evening ;-)
Apologies. All sorted and the ridge solved it all, you can sleep easy! 😀
@@TheRestorationCouple Ah great news! All is well 😅
We all learn by our mistakes! Don’t they make end caps for the cill, that you can glue in place for a perfect seal?
not what you want after all your hard work Tim , very poor design door frame by the manufactures to leak like that, it should of had a mechanical end stops/ plastic seals .
Water will find the bits that you missed, having to cut away all your very well thought out work must be gutting 😢
In reality it probably took only slightly longer to do it properly so glad I did in the long run.
Surly they should have plastic caps at each end.
There is on the sill. Its the gap between sill and frame that carries the water.
Ad free but wrong person to answer as I'm a premium member 🙄
What an absolute garbage door assembly.
Should be like that so you have to rely on caulk to do all the waterproofing.....
That will leak again and needs a overkill door sill with flashing all the way innside and up on the wall 30cm high.
Hope that company goes bankrupt soon so they don't destroy more homes...
Tim should have watched Liam at @oakwoodgardenrooms👍🤩
I don't watch too many channels however that is definitely one I will politely choose to avoid! 😂
@@TheRestorationCouple 🤩🤩
@@TheRestorationCouple that’s a pity as Liam has done several videos on how to fit sliding doors so they don’t leak.
@@gordonmonteith8486 I've watched a good few of Liam's step by step videos and I have to admit,when you've built as many garden rooms as he has,you gain alot of knowledge...and the mistakes get ironed out early on,he's a good teacher,no doubts about that...not sure why anyone would avoid his channel,there's some great tips.