I had a couple of wasps nests in my loft and the installers strangely weren't keen on rolling out insulation under them last year. I sympathised, and asked them to leave a roll so I could sort it out. Last week, a friend got dressed like you plus mask, went up and filled three bin bags with the nests (one took two bags alone). He then rolled out the insulation. I owe him several drinks, in addition to the cash I gave him...
Wow, that's a very good friend! Yes, definitely keep him sweet for any future jobs you might have 😆 And that sounds like some huge wasp nests! The one we removed before Christmas was tiny in comparison!
A job well done Vikkie! Shortish bits of plastic gutter cupped against the felt between the rafters down by the eaves can help ensure air flow from the cavity to the loft space. I have been lucky enough to be able to build myself a new bungalow which I was able to go overboard with the insulation. I had an air source heat pump installed which works well but because of my extra insulation I wish I hadn’t bothered with any central heating. Mainly because it needs annual servicing , its depreciation, possible future repairs & it does use power. We find an electric fan heater heats the house quite quickly in a short while. I know it’s difficult to go OTT with insulation in an existing property but I now reckon insulation, insulation, insulation is the way to go. I love your channel. 😁
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK It's a bit like cutting a swiss roll , use a gentle sawing action. It cut's very quickly. Also a broom handle with a coat hook attached on the end was another useful tool for positioning and tucking in without having to laydown .
Don't use talc anymore. Ever. There are credible risks from exposure to asbestos from using it. Massive lawsuits in flight over this. Seriously, ditch the talc.
Talc and asbestos are minerals that occur naturally near each other, and their fibers can mix during mining. Most talc deposits contain asbestos, and the most toxic forms are often present
Great timing... just helped out one of my aunts with her loft. 98 meter squared and no existing insulation at all [was all removed when a storm knocked a hole in part of the roof and soaked most of it]. Luckily, she got given all her insulation, so two of us spent a full day laying it and your right.... it looks like a big fluffy duvet. One thing your best doing... get them boards off the insulation. It's defeating the object of laying 300mm! Go get yourself some Loftlegs from the likes of Wickes. Fitting them is a bit of a pain but well worth the effort. Covered half the floor area for her with 2400 x 600 t&g boards, and she's well chuffed. Somewhere flat and accessible to store her odds and sods [you know what you ladies are like] and now her bungalow is well toastie. Nice.👍 Anyway, great video as always, and nice to see some more progress.
I added some insulation to my loft the other week, an extra layer and filling in all the gaps, and edges the builders had missed years ago. It's a hateful job even not trying to film it, so doing it and making a video at the same time must be utterly awful! Great work getting it done. Always a relief not to fall through the ceiling too!!
Header tank, you could box in below and leave it open inside, lagging the outside of the box - that way you get the heat going up to the tank from the plasterboard, but the cold gets kept in the loft. Just a thought.
Great and honest video. Most information tells you how easy it is to add loft insulation - this shows that it's fiddly, uncomfortable and does take a bit of thinking about. Well done.
Another awesome video. My brother insullated his apartment loft, before his apartment was like a cold cave that you could only keep warm by constantly running the heat. Afterwards it was so much better, you put the heating on for half an hour in the morning and it stayed warm until evening no problem.
We put in some extra insulation in an area just before Christmas. It goes over my dining room, downstairs loo and hall. Very noticeable difference in warmth. TFS. I love your videos. ❤
Great job and great video, it is a thankless task! I insulated our loft and my knees will not be the same again! 😂 there is also the jeopardy of one wrong step and you could go through the ceiling!
This a job I've been putting off for too long. I've also got a LoftZone raised floor system to go in for a storage floor. Already added shelves in-between the trusses for additional storage. Horrible job but watching this has given me the impetus to get on & do it - in a week or so or whenever it gets a bit warmer!
Yes, I recommend doing it sooner rather than later. It got too hot at times up there with the amount of protective gear I had to wear. But glad it's done now.
Plus one vote for Loftzone raised flooring above your insulation. I've done both my own and daughter's lofts. Do it BEFORE you put anything "up the attic"!
@@confusedofhinckley5294 That's my problem. 38 years of clutter in my loft on 100mm insulation & a chipboard floor that I put in when we first moved in. TBF the clutter is probably doing a good insulation job🤣
I actually loved doing my loft insulation :D Mainly because at the end it looked so nice and fresh. I did it mid summer too which was perhaps the worse decision! One job I hate is cutting and fitting coving and skirting.
Rodents can come in through the soffits (if there are any cracks etc), various vent pipes and even roof tiles if there are gaps wide enough (doesn't need to be a hug gap for a mouse to squeeze in!)
Loft insulation is the worst I’ve done! But it’s better now than it used to be. The knauf insulation you used is much less itchy than the old glass fibre insulation. I lagged my pipes around the old type insulation and itched so much but the time I spent insulating the gaps with new type insulation was much less itchy!
Great video - I agree being in the loft with fibreglass insulation is the worst job in the home! I had some heating pipe in the loft that I lagged and wrapped in silver foil. took ages to wrap the pipes.
Hi Vikkie, hope your well, not the best of jobs insulating the attic but it's got to be done and it dose make a lot of difference to your heating costs and as you said not as cold. Your are doing a great job , Take care of your selves, catch you soon
Nice job Vikkie, I remember doing my loft when I first moved in and I found it a detestable job. The itch and sweat together drove me crazy, was glad to get in the shower after 5 hours of toil.
When doing the eaves, I lay some cardboard down and unrolled the insulation on top then slid the insulation into position before sliding the cardboard out. its easier if you only a narrow width too.
Good idea. Been doing my Mum's loft today and my solution was to roll out the wool, then tear off the last perforated section and lay it in the narrow gap. Worked pretty well but I think I would have used your method I'd I'd read the comment yesterday!
Job’s a goodun’! I saw a talk on home energy efficiency once. The expert was asked which job you should prioritise first. He said insulation, then if you have any money left over get more insulation. Then spend some time saving up some money and spend it on insulation.
Completely agree - we used PIR (KIngspan/Celotex) between the boards. Make sure there's room for air to circulate from the rafters. As far as heating is concerned, you'll benefit from whatever heat source you use but if you've got up to current Building Regs, I would definitely consider ASHP/GSHP. We are paying maximum £2.50/day in heating and hot water at the moment (it raised to £3.20/day when the temperature fell to -3 degrees). Even if you do go for a gas boiler you will still benefit from the insulation by lower flow temperatures. I would also consider wet underfloor heating. Now is the time to do it before you get any more done on the floors. There is possibly one thing worse than insulating the loft space, and that is insulating under the floor with about 18-20 inches to work in. I am really enjoying this series.
@@danieladams7919 Utter balderdash. In my lane in a hamlet there are now 5 heat pumps, approaching 50% of the properties which are a mixture of newish and very old. They work. BTW Screwfix have now converted the heating in all of their outlets to heat pumps.
I feel the pain - did something similar in 2012 after moving into a bungalow with rafter level insulation- 200m2 so trying to heat double the volume - pulled it all down to ceiling level and added 170mm at a right angle - horrid job with dead creatures and lots of rubbish left by the usual trades 🙄 It’s not great (more mice) but way better than it was - fortunately picked up 28 rolls for a fiver each back in the day when the govt were subsidising it and trades were buying up loads of it 👍 Second least favourite thing is plumbing 😮
I know it's too late now, but after using fibre glass, have cool shower before a hot one. Having a hot shower will open your pores, and the fibres will drop in, resulting in an itch for a week.
Great content I've seen other such as Gosforth Handyman help with putting sheet like insulation betwen the joists under floors to help with energy effiency.. I think Belinda Carr covered other stuff such as using Sheep or hemp wool for breathable insulation
This hard work having done a lot of it myself. One thing u did was stuffing it down the cavity this will help greatly but I would prefer using closed cell eurathane cans for this. And u do need the double layer of fiber glass I did a double layer of 200 mm which is 400 in total. And glad to see u sealed the conduit it is a massive improvement but often over looked. Good on u two for doing this job
If you get a load of foam board insulation build a box around the header tank that goes all the way from it's top to the ceiling then make a gap in the ceiling insulation allowing some warmth up around the tank without it escaping into the loft space if you get something like a comfy boiler you don't need a header or hot water tank
Thanks for the suggestion! I had a Google and those lap vents looks so easy to install. I'll keep my eyes peeled up there and know what to do now if we see any condensation
Agreed my loft had no insulation and would build lots of condensation, opening up the felt underlay with some vents lets an amazing amount of airflow into the rafters getting rid of the condensation once it was all insulated and covered
I would add a layer of Radiant foil Barriers under the main insulation - Reflects Heat back into the living space + Helps to keep the home cooler in summer
Actually... I've been thinking about this for our concrete floors (it's concrete throughout) and have it under hardwood flooring etc. Just not sure yet whether it is a good idea
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUKI don’t think you’ll find foil insulation works unless you leave an air gap either side. The size of the gap depends on the product, so not much good for floors unless you have wooden floors with a void below.
I like to insulate the ceiling with 25mm Recticel PIR under the joists before plaster-boarding, then less insulation needed in loft. tape the PIR board joints and spray foam the perimeter and acts as a vapour barrier too. nice thermal break from the ceiling joists too.
And now if you have a fire in a room below the loft, and the flames get through a light fitting, you've got plenty of easily ignited PIR fuel to carry the fire through to the loft with!
@@pm7067 light fitting wire holes are sealed with intumesant sealant. it’s no different to any chalet bungalow, but they have much more PIR. Phenolic insulation would be better though.
Not sure what you are saying as above the plaster board is the loft unless your talking about the ground floor? Or are you saying that you use pir backed plasterboard so it covers the joist areas as well. However either way, a bit more of a fire hazard than fibreglass.
I added 250 mm to my existing 50 mm between the joists vermiculite 15 years ago. The house was instantly warmer and the circulating hot and cold air flows just stopped. It was an amazing heat transformation.
great job, I had to remove and do some work in loft recently , those overalls are great , cheap at toolstation , HOWEVER, FYI you do need some ventilation in the loft - otherwise you will get a lot of condensation and you will then very quickly get mold and rot - if you dont feel there is any or enough airflow , ventilation and you have laggged and blooked everything up - you can put in some soffett vents - to allow an airflow across the loft
I originally tried to wrap my insulation across the ceiling and up around the water tank, so that the tank was in is own insulation iglu, but getting heat from below as long as the house was heated. I recently had a large step up in the insulation, it was pricy as I had other work done at the same time, was it worthwhile? I hope so, I am too old and unstable not to mention lacking in flexibility. The last major work I did up there was quarter of a century ago and now I do not move so well. At this time of year heating can be expensive, I go over your £400 a month, but come the end of February until November it drops down a long way.
I would use armaflex/armacell tubing for the pipes. I don’t have any experience with this kind of stuff, but as a hvac insulator/lagger. I would use an insulation saw and knife for your cuts.
Great video. Great job. I am about to review our loft's insulation and also get some LoftZone flooring. We're in an old cottage with limited head height (about 5 feet or so at the ridge) but really need the storage. What i wondered was how far in from the eaves did you lay the insulation? I know you said you pushed it down into the air gap, I wondered if that was the norm? Also thinking of trying to cover that gap with vents or something as we get mice in the loft in the winter... right over our bedroom and wakes us up in the middle of the night.
I insulated one of my bedroom floors whilst I had the floor boards up for heating and electrics . This had a massive increase temperature for the living room below. I scanned the the room with an thermal camera the drop off in temperature across the ceiling was a lot less for the ceiling with insulation. Note the cheap digital infra red cameras work just as well. Keep a gap at the edge of eaves to allow some air circulation to stop moisture building up. Also allow a gap around electrical wiring to stop over heating. If you seal the eaves rafters can rot.
As you say ...... the modern stuff is a lot better than the old stuff! It is important to not cover those eve gaps up so as to allow air to circulate though!
Did this job a few years ago and agree it's a hateful task. I added some plastic louvre air vents too as I found we didn't have enough air circulation in the air space above the insulation to the rafters and this was causing water droplets to form. They are very useful little bits of kit made by Manrose if anyone reading is after some.
I topped up our loft, I found it was easier to do a half width section when trying lay the top roll out and get it into the eaves and around the rafters rather than trying to manhandle the full roll
I hate fibre glass insulation with a passion. I used the recycled plastic from B&Q. It dosnt itch at all. Bit expensive but it’s worth it. Not sure about how well it would do in a fire ,not as good as rockwool but if it’s on fire I’ll be out of the house like a rocket anyway. You’ve done a great job.
Thanks so much and for the insight 😀 I was pleasantly surprised how much better the Knauf stuff is compared to the old fibreglass stuff I had to mess about with. By the time I'd moved onto the new stuff, my skin had had enough and can't imagine doing it without overalls and gloves 😆
Insulation is a must, but since putting in our loft insulation I find the humidity has increased in the home quite a lot and we see more condensation than before. We have had the insulation independently surveyed and its fine, so we are looking at installing a venting system in the loft to help tackle the increase in humidity.
I used cosywool sheeps wool insulation from Celtic sustainables on two houses now. So easy to handle, only need a mask and sheep shears to cut it. No itch and a total pleasure to fit 😂
That sounds pleasant :) Thankfully the Knauf stuff didn't irritate me, but I was fed up by the time I got to that area because handling the old stuff was blooming awful lol
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK I did the same to our bungalow, also 25mm Xtratherm to some walls that needed replastering and 100mm under the floor again were floors needed replacing. It's a lot of work and existence but it pays for it self.
Any thoughts on changing the hot water cylinder for a pressurised sealed cylinder and hence the attic tank can be removed. They are more efficient and retain heat the heat rather well and make it as large as possible. Currently in existing property I have a 210 litre in the new property currently installing a 250 litre. Been up in the loft space above a garage installing loft insulation and pipework and cable's, under a shallow roof. I too am sick and tired of banging my head on roof trusses. I feel your PAIN! About to break through into the main house between floors, can't come soon enough.
I've boarded all my lofts (or extended existing boarding) apart from the one I have currently. (Access is extremely difficult so we aren't using for storage - and we have a barn anyway!) In each case I've basically ignored the fact that the insulation extends above the existing joists and just laid the boards on top; this compresses the insulation and I'm pretty sure it reduces its effectiveness. So my question is what *should* I have done? (And also how will you deal with this conundrum?) Keep up the good work!
Very very good question. I've watched loads of videos now about not compressing it and do have an idea I might do, which I talk about in next week's video 😀
Put extra joists at right angles to the existing ones. I used 200mm joists and insulated he resulting space between old and new joists. I then boarded over the top.
I'd have stripped off the old pipe lagging and put the new in its place which is how it is designed. When you now board off some of the loft, make sure not to compress the insulation. Also, when putting boards in place remember you may need access for new cabling in due course. With the header tank, lag round it as well as on top because the loft will now be colder. But well done, probably one of the worst DIY jobs and support another comment, cool shower afterwards. Keep going, long way to go yet.
You only know if you've done a good enough job once you get a thermal camera and check all the ceilings for cold spots. Loft Vent Trays would maintain the eave vents, but they cost money... Have you thought of a 50mm airgap below any boarding otherwise you may risk condensation on the underside and joists?
Yes... hoping to buy a thermal camera at some point but they're a bit expensive. And yes, I've researched lots of boarding videos and having an air gap, but so much more to consider to prevent ceiling cracking, so still pondering on it
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK There used to be free thermal camera loans from energy firms, like Octopus, bit late for this year but worth a Google. There's daily paid hire from Mark1Hire, etc. Got all my info from Steve the Roofer (who's open to questions btw) and from the old Fixmyroof channel...there's never a perfect solution!
We used central heating and a gas fire in our house, against the underfloor heating the 33 square m conservatory ( both gas ). The result was a difference of £5 less per day using the conservatory, also the central heating comes on for short periods twice a day. That’s the normal winter rates of uses, in summer our gas is standing charge only, whilst electric is £1.50 per day with solar panels and a battery. Not sold on ASHP yet due to noise and output in winter
Apparently Building Regs require loft thermal insulation to achieve a U-value of at least 0.16W/m2K (the lower the better), typically achieved by 250mm of mineral wool or 120mm Celotex pir board. My problem is I have dormers which take up most of the loft space with a 170mm gap tiles to ceiling; must have a 50mm air gap between tiles and the insulation above bedroom ceiling, so can I push strips of 120mm pir along between the joists to provide insulation? The strips would have to be around 3metres long (width of bedroom) & guessing 2mm gap each side to allow them to be pushed into place without jamming.
I bought enough rolls of fibreglass insulation for my large house nearly 20 years ago and put the rolls in the loft ready to insulate the roof. 20 years later the rolls are still up there untouched purely because of the same issues you had in this video.
Nice work Vickie. Top marks for keeping the cables above the insulation. Not sure about putting the foam pipe lagging over the wool. I imagine the split foam won’t have ‘closed’ around the pipe, leaving a gap.
Well done Vickie. Insulating the loft is well within the scope of any DIYer, however it is a horrible, awkward job and painful job that you wish you had never started. But you chose the right time of year to tackle the job and being the right side of 70 years old does help a tad. Just one comment - Do you really need to keep the cold water tank?
A few weeks ago I did my Mum's barely insulated extension loft and today I did her main loft. I can confirm it's a GRIM job! Lessons I learned. This wool insulation is a million times better to work with than the old fibreglass type. For today's job I took a spare set of clothes as I was a total sweaty mess both times & going home in a cold car when you're damp with perspiration is not pleasant. I dispensed with all non-essentials, such as boiler suit, goggles, mask etc... in favour of working quicker. I wouldn't do this with fibreglass insulation or if the loft was very dusty though. I found it was easier to work when the first layer was down and I could spread my weight on the insulation, rather than balancing on beams. This allowed me to get into the tight corners (IE I lay on it to get into the edges. Don't be too precious about how it looks, just get it down & you can patch up any ropey-looking bits at the end. Work fast & get the hell out of there as soon as you can! As long as everything is covered in a thick layer, that's going to have to be good enough for me ; ) I did still feel fairly itchy when I got home but washed with cold water, then a hot shower after & feel fine now. Glad that job is done & hope I never have to do it again!
I got it done for free, the trouble was the stench .It must have been stored in an old barn .I got them back to take it all away ,then had to clean downstairs . I then bought the foil coated stuff and non smelly insulation .Later I got double foiled rolls to cover the floored part . When you get round to removing the header tank . If it is plastic use an old saw to cut it into manageable bits .The big bonus is the money you will get from selling the copper pipes plus your boiler .
This is a job I need to do too. The house we have is 2 old miners cottages and the lofts are a total disaster. One half is filled with black plastic sheeting with an inch of sand as insulation plus insulating roll which hasn’t been installed well and the other house is the same without the sand but with random boards unfixed so a total mess. I’m ripping it out slowly and starting again, a horrible job.
I recommend Rockwool over fibreglass, but appreciate the cost difference. I'm removing the box-in-box model in my cottage (taking away the plasterboard walls that open into the loft and circle the rooms with cold air) in favour of lime. Lots of work but very satisfying, instantly warmer and looks lovely.
I bet you're glad that's over and done with! Horrid job! But at least it wasn't fibreglass. I've handled that before when insulating my van. I stuffed sandwich bags with it. Even though I did it outside, I still ended up with horribly irritated skin. You have a huge loft. Maybe you could convert it into living accommodation.
I would have thought you would go with PIR board which I believe doesn't need so much thickness, however, you do have quite a large loft space to stand in compared to my home which WILL use PIR board due to space being very minimal.
I would have loved to, but the cost put me off. Also, there's very little information online about what air gap you need under boarding, and I wasn't sure how it would have been assessed with an EPC assessor as I was initially going to board areas first before it being assessed.
These properties are like fridges (Freezers?) with their non cavity insulation walls and underfloor external air ventilated foundations but it's all fun in the long run 🙃
Hi vikki i know what its like to work with insulation i ve done it few times at work and sound deadening insulation .the mask is aproblem as the one i had the water in me breath would collect in the bottom under mouth so i had to wipe out once in a while
I feel for you doing that job, I've done it myself when we moved into this house, if I need to do it again I'll pay someone else to do it! For determining how everything is constructed I've found a cheap endoscope incredibly useful, including with working out our energy losses. From my understanding a shrew is kind of handy to have, they're carnivorous and eat a lot (2-3 times their body weight per day), so in a house, they move in, eat any mice etc you have then run out of food and leave. We had one do a very effective job one year :) Sadly though, living in a rural location has some down sides, as the external temperature drops the mice look for somewhere warm to move into, in October/November we probably catch about 12 mice in the loft, then nothing for the rest of the year. They'll get in almost anywhere if they want to, they can climb amazingly well and fit through the smallest of gaps.
Wow... sounds like I should've left the shrew in there 😆 have you ever found one in your loft in the past too? I've been told a few theories that a bird or prey probably dropped it on the roof. Also, well have to set up a switch up there for our plug in mice deterrent devices. Not sure they work, but touch wood, not seen life of any mice yet!
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Ours shrew was in the house, happily not had any activity in the main house since it left. We did have mice, then we had a shrew, then we had nothing 🤣 We've not had one in the loft but there's no reason they couldn't walk up the inside of the cavity or one of the many other ways up. I'm not sure how our mice are getting in but they manage it. I need to try one of the plug in deterrents as well, let us know how it works :)
I hate insulating lofts. I was itchy for a week after I did mine. Never again. Not sure the hot water tank needed the jacket as it was already insulated.
Are you going to insulate your floor. I did mine last year. I have a bungalow with a suspended floor. I cut some access hatches and done it lying on my back. I used 170mm wool and then stapled netting to the underside.
I need to think about what we're going to do as we have solid concrete floors throughout. I'm wondering about silver foil bubble wrap type insulation on it, then plywood on top and hardwood flooring etc
The one thing I'm not sure of given the description of 'glass mineral wool' is what happens when it gets wet. Glass wool loses it's R value, while Mineral wool does not... So what does Glass Mineral wool do?
2 tips: use a sharp carving knife instead of a saw to cut the fibreglass. The immersion heater has to remain uncovered or it will overheat and trip should you ever use it.
Use EcoQuilt next time, it's fully enclosed in a foil cover, minimal cutting for eaves and you can do that outside and re tape the open ends before you take it upstairs.
What do you think is the worst type of DIY job to do?
I had a couple of wasps nests in my loft and the installers strangely weren't keen on rolling out insulation under them last year. I sympathised, and asked them to leave a roll so I could sort it out. Last week, a friend got dressed like you plus mask, went up and filled three bin bags with the nests (one took two bags alone). He then rolled out the insulation. I owe him several drinks, in addition to the cash I gave him...
Wow, that's a very good friend! Yes, definitely keep him sweet for any future jobs you might have 😆 And that sounds like some huge wasp nests! The one we removed before Christmas was tiny in comparison!
Toilets or unclogging slimy- hairy drains🤮🤢
I love watching your channel
Painting
A job well done Vikkie! Shortish bits of plastic gutter cupped against the felt between the rafters down by the eaves can help ensure air flow from the cavity to the loft space. I have been lucky enough to be able to build myself a new bungalow which I was able to go overboard with the insulation. I had an air source heat pump installed which works well but because of my extra insulation I wish I hadn’t bothered with any central heating. Mainly because it needs annual servicing , its depreciation, possible future repairs & it does use power. We find an electric fan heater heats the house quite quickly in a short while. I know it’s difficult to go OTT with insulation in an existing property but I now reckon insulation, insulation, insulation is the way to go. I love your channel. 😁
@williambrown2264 Hi. Can you explain what you mean re. the gutter? The roof membrane is over the rafters and so nowhere near the wall cavity?
Top Tip for cutting the insulation use a large serrated bread knife it will slice through it like butter with far less mess. Never use a wood saw.
I'd be worried how much longer this would take with a roll?
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK It's a bit like cutting a swiss roll , use a gentle sawing action. It cut's very quickly. Also a broom handle with a coat hook attached on the end was another useful tool for positioning and tucking in without having to laydown .
A tip. Cover your exposed skin in talcum powder before you start, it really decreases the irritation.
Great tip!
Asbestos
@@miketiller8430 it's cornstarch now, the food stuff is possibly cheaper than perfumed 'talc' too
Don't use talc anymore. Ever. There are credible risks from exposure to asbestos from using it. Massive lawsuits in flight over this. Seriously, ditch the talc.
Talc and asbestos are minerals that occur naturally near each other, and their fibers can mix during mining. Most talc deposits contain asbestos, and the most toxic forms are often present
Great timing... just helped out one of my aunts with her loft. 98 meter squared and no existing insulation at all [was all removed when a storm knocked a hole in part of the roof and soaked most of it].
Luckily, she got given all her insulation, so two of us spent a full day laying it and your right.... it looks like a big fluffy duvet.
One thing your best doing... get them boards off the insulation. It's defeating the object of laying 300mm! Go get yourself some Loftlegs from the likes of Wickes.
Fitting them is a bit of a pain but well worth the effort. Covered half the floor area for her with 2400 x 600 t&g boards, and she's well chuffed. Somewhere flat and accessible to store her odds and sods [you know what you ladies are like] and now her bungalow is well toastie. Nice.👍
Anyway, great video as always, and nice to see some more progress.
I added some insulation to my loft the other week, an extra layer and filling in all the gaps, and edges the builders had missed years ago. It's a hateful job even not trying to film it, so doing it and making a video at the same time must be utterly awful! Great work getting it done.
Always a relief not to fall through the ceiling too!!
Header tank, you could box in below and leave it open inside, lagging the outside of the box - that way you get the heat going up to the tank from the plasterboard, but the cold gets kept in the loft. Just a thought.
Great and honest video. Most information tells you how easy it is to add loft insulation - this shows that it's fiddly, uncomfortable and does take a bit of thinking about. Well done.
Another good job there , not surprised you notice the diff with all that extra in loft (sorry attic ) lol. Well done nice to see you back.
Thanks 👍 Hopefully we'll get some better weather soon, too... sick of cold Winters now 😅
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Has turned quite mild down my way ment to be 12 tomorrow. 😀
Well done for sticking at it. Looks good.
Thanks so much! It's warmer and looks less chaotic up there 😆
Another awesome video. My brother insullated his apartment loft, before his apartment was like a cold cave that you could only keep warm by constantly running the heat. Afterwards it was so much better, you put the heating on for half an hour in the morning and it stayed warm until evening no problem.
Awesome…?
Massive respect Vikkie, that's a horrible job to do, well done you.
Thank you so much! Definitely worth persevering!!!! 😊
We put in some extra insulation in an area just before Christmas. It goes over my dining room, downstairs loo and hall. Very noticeable difference in warmth. TFS. I love your videos. ❤
Glad you've also noticed a difference (and that you love my videos 🤩)
Great job and great video, it is a thankless task! I insulated our loft and my knees will not be the same again! 😂 there is also the jeopardy of one wrong step and you could go through the ceiling!
Haha... yes, it really does test the knees and mine aren't perfect anymore 😅 And its such slow work, treading carefully 😆
Brilliantly done well done Mr & Mrs TDC looks absolutely fantastic 😊
Thanks so much 😀
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK you are both very welcome 🤗
This a job I've been putting off for too long. I've also got a LoftZone raised floor system to go in for a storage floor. Already added shelves in-between the trusses for additional storage. Horrible job but watching this has given me the impetus to get on & do it - in a week or so or whenever it gets a bit warmer!
Yes, I recommend doing it sooner rather than later. It got too hot at times up there with the amount of protective gear I had to wear. But glad it's done now.
Plus one vote for Loftzone raised flooring above your insulation. I've done both my own and daughter's lofts. Do it BEFORE you put anything "up the attic"!
@@confusedofhinckley5294 That's my problem. 38 years of clutter in my loft on 100mm insulation & a chipboard floor that I put in when we first moved in. TBF the clutter is probably doing a good insulation job🤣
I must admit, I'm not quite sold on the loft legs after watching a lot of TH-cam videos. I may add mini wooden frames
Haha... I was just going to say that! Yes, I bet your stuff is adding more insulation lol
Great job. I have been in my attic last week running camera cables, that was enough for me. You are an inspiration.
I wouldn't have fancied doing your job either 😆
Excellent job, so pleased to see that all done
I'm glad that you're feeling warmer.
I actually loved doing my loft insulation :D Mainly because at the end it looked so nice and fresh. I did it mid summer too which was perhaps the worse decision!
One job I hate is cutting and fitting coving and skirting.
You're right... it does look nice and fresh once done, but wouldn't want to do it again unless I had to 😆
Rodents can come in through the soffits (if there are any cracks etc), various vent pipes and even roof tiles if there are gaps wide enough (doesn't need to be a hug gap for a mouse to squeeze in!)
Loft insulation is the worst I’ve done! But it’s better now than it used to be. The knauf insulation you used is much less itchy than the old glass fibre insulation. I lagged my pipes around the old type insulation and itched so much but the time I spent insulating the gaps with new type insulation was much less itchy!
It would be best if you left air gap near the eaves, or use Eaves Panel Vents Suits 600mm Rafter Width for Roof Air Flow
Great video - I agree being in the loft with fibreglass insulation is the worst job in the home! I had some heating pipe in the loft that I lagged and wrapped in silver foil. took ages to wrap the pipes.
Hi Vikkie, hope your well, not the best of jobs insulating the attic but it's got to be done and it dose make a lot of difference to your heating costs and as you said not as cold. Your are doing a great job , Take care of your selves, catch you soon
Well done Vikkie the loft is looking good keep up the good work x
Thanks so much! It was well worth doing!
Great work done there. Well done. Make sure any eave vents are cclear to ventilate the loft.
And wrap up water storage tank.
Nice job Vikkie, I remember doing my loft when I first moved in and I found it a detestable job. The itch and sweat together drove me crazy, was glad to get in the shower after 5 hours of toil.
When doing the eaves, I lay some cardboard down and unrolled the insulation on top then slid the insulation into position before sliding the cardboard out. its easier if you only a narrow width too.
Good idea. Been doing my Mum's loft today and my solution was to roll out the wool, then tear off the last perforated section and lay it in the narrow gap. Worked pretty well but I think I would have used your method I'd I'd read the comment yesterday!
Great job.. better than professionals. You did fill all the gaps, pros will not do as extensive as you. The boiler copper pipes should be lagged too.
Job’s a goodun’! I saw a talk on home energy efficiency once. The expert was asked which job you should prioritise first. He said insulation, then if you have any money left over get more insulation. Then spend some time saving up some money and spend it on insulation.
😆😆😆😆😆😆 yes... that sounds like a plan 🤣
Completely agree - we used PIR (KIngspan/Celotex) between the boards. Make sure there's room for air to circulate from the rafters.
As far as heating is concerned, you'll benefit from whatever heat source you use but if you've got up to current Building Regs, I would definitely consider ASHP/GSHP. We are paying maximum £2.50/day in heating and hot water at the moment (it raised to £3.20/day when the temperature fell to -3 degrees). Even if you do go for a gas boiler you will still benefit from the insulation by lower flow temperatures. I would also consider wet underfloor heating. Now is the time to do it before you get any more done on the floors.
There is possibly one thing worse than insulating the loft space, and that is insulating under the floor with about 18-20 inches to work in.
I am really enjoying this series.
Doesn't work in 98% of the uk housing market
@@danieladams7919 What doesn't work in 98% of the uk housing market?
@@dallan7740 Heat pumps
@@danieladams7919 Utter balderdash. In my lane in a hamlet there are now 5 heat pumps, approaching 50% of the properties which are a mixture of newish and very old. They work. BTW Screwfix have now converted the heating in all of their outlets to heat pumps.
I feel the pain - did something similar in 2012 after moving into a bungalow with rafter level insulation- 200m2 so trying to heat double the volume - pulled it all down to ceiling level and added 170mm at a right angle - horrid job with dead creatures and lots of rubbish left by the usual trades 🙄 It’s not great (more mice) but way better than it was - fortunately picked up 28 rolls for a fiver each back in the day when the govt were subsidising it and trades were buying up loads of it 👍 Second least favourite thing is plumbing 😮
I know it's too late now, but after using fibre glass, have cool shower before a hot one. Having a hot shower will open your pores, and the fibres will drop in, resulting in an itch for a week.
Ooh, I love this tip!!! 😀 I must be lucky I didn't itch for more than a day 😅
Great content I've seen other such as Gosforth Handyman help with putting sheet like insulation betwen the joists under floors to help with energy effiency.. I think Belinda Carr covered other stuff such as using Sheep or hemp wool for breathable insulation
Now down a rabbit hole with Belinda's sheep wool video 😆😆
This hard work having done a lot of it myself. One thing u did was stuffing it down the cavity this will help greatly but I would prefer using closed cell eurathane cans for this. And u do need the double layer of fiber glass I did a double layer of 200 mm which is 400 in total. And glad to see u sealed the conduit it is a massive improvement but often over looked. Good on u two for doing this job
Great job Vikki ,your hubby must be very proud of you 👍😉
it made me itch just watching this !
*Awesome job done... well done 🙂.*
you can buy some sort of skirt to go down the edge of the roof / walls to keep the insulation off it and keep airflow, can't remember the name though!
If you get a load of foam board insulation build a box around the header tank that goes all the way from it's top to the ceiling then make a gap in the ceiling insulation allowing some warmth up around the tank without it escaping into the loft space if you get something like a comfy boiler you don't need a header or hot water tank
That sounds a great idea!! I might give that a go!
Its nice to see they give you time off 'Question of Sport' to do home improvements 😁
Hi Vikkie, if you ever get problems with condensation get some lap vents easy to fit between the felt and works well.
Agree, making that as air tight as you can lead to issues as the felt membrane doesn't allow moisture through.
Thanks for the suggestion! I had a Google and those lap vents looks so easy to install. I'll keep my eyes peeled up there and know what to do now if we see any condensation
Agreed my loft had no insulation and would build lots of condensation, opening up the felt underlay with some vents lets an amazing amount of airflow into the rafters getting rid of the condensation once it was all insulated and covered
I would add a layer of Radiant foil Barriers under the main insulation
- Reflects Heat back into the living space + Helps to keep the home cooler in summer
Actually... I've been thinking about this for our concrete floors (it's concrete throughout) and have it under hardwood flooring etc. Just not sure yet whether it is a good idea
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUKI don’t think you’ll find foil insulation works unless you leave an air gap either side. The size of the gap depends on the product, so not much good for floors unless you have wooden floors with a void below.
Good job done there. Got to be one of the worst jobs to do. However the rewards make it so worthwhile.
Did you think about using a foil insulation under the fibreglass? Apparently it gives you an extra 3inch polystyrene insulation equivalence.
I did wonder, but the additional prices hurt!!
I like to insulate the ceiling with 25mm Recticel PIR under the joists before plaster-boarding, then less insulation needed in loft. tape the PIR board joints and spray foam the perimeter and acts as a vapour barrier too. nice thermal break from the ceiling joists too.
And now if you have a fire in a room below the loft, and the flames get through a light fitting, you've got plenty of easily ignited PIR fuel to carry the fire through to the loft with!
@@pm7067 light fitting wire holes are sealed with intumesant sealant. it’s no different to any chalet bungalow, but they have much more PIR. Phenolic insulation would be better though.
@@pm7067not to mention house full of noxious fumes.
Not sure what you are saying as above the plaster board is the loft unless your talking about the ground floor? Or are you saying that you use pir backed plasterboard so it covers the joist areas as well. However either way, a bit more of a fire hazard than fibreglass.
I added 250 mm to my existing 50 mm between the joists vermiculite 15 years ago. The house was instantly warmer and the circulating hot and cold air flows just stopped. It was an amazing heat transformation.
Sounds toasty and warm 🤩
great job, I had to remove and do some work in loft recently , those overalls are great , cheap at toolstation , HOWEVER, FYI you do need some ventilation in the loft - otherwise you will get a lot of condensation and you will then very quickly get mold and rot - if you dont feel there is any or enough airflow , ventilation and you have laggged and blooked everything up - you can put in some soffett vents - to allow an airflow across the loft
I originally tried to wrap my insulation across the ceiling and up around the water tank, so that the tank was in is own insulation iglu, but getting heat from below as long as the house was heated. I recently had a large step up in the insulation, it was pricy as I had other work done at the same time, was it worthwhile? I hope so, I am too old and unstable not to mention lacking in flexibility. The last major work I did up there was quarter of a century ago and now I do not move so well. At this time of year heating can be expensive, I go over your £400 a month, but come the end of February until November it drops down a long way.
👍👍👍.Thanks Vikkie
I would use armaflex/armacell tubing for the pipes.
I don’t have any experience with this kind of stuff, but as a hvac insulator/lagger. I would use an insulation saw and knife for your cuts.
Great video. Great job. I am about to review our loft's insulation and also get some LoftZone flooring. We're in an old cottage with limited head height (about 5 feet or so at the ridge) but really need the storage. What i wondered was how far in from the eaves did you lay the insulation? I know you said you pushed it down into the air gap, I wondered if that was the norm? Also thinking of trying to cover that gap with vents or something as we get mice in the loft in the winter... right over our bedroom and wakes us up in the middle of the night.
looks proper cosy! welldone!
I insulated one of my bedroom floors whilst I had the floor boards up for heating and electrics . This had a massive increase temperature for the living room below. I scanned the the room with an thermal camera the drop off in temperature across the ceiling was a lot less for the ceiling with insulation. Note the cheap digital infra red cameras work just as well. Keep a gap at the edge of eaves to allow some air circulation to stop moisture building up. Also allow a gap around electrical wiring to stop over heating. If you seal the eaves rafters can rot.
As you say ...... the modern stuff is a lot better than the old stuff!
It is important to not cover those eve gaps up so as to allow air to circulate though!
Did this job a few years ago and agree it's a hateful task. I added some plastic louvre air vents too as I found we didn't have enough air circulation in the air space above the insulation to the rafters and this was causing water droplets to form. They are very useful little bits of kit made by Manrose if anyone reading is after some.
I topped up our loft, I found it was easier to do a half width section when trying lay the top roll out and get it into the eaves and around the rafters rather than trying to manhandle the full roll
Your water cylinder now looks like a delicious beef joint ready to go in the oven for Sunday dinner 🤣
It does 😆
I hate fibre glass insulation with a passion. I used the recycled plastic from B&Q. It dosnt itch at all. Bit expensive but it’s worth it. Not sure about how well it would do in a fire ,not as good as rockwool but if it’s on fire I’ll be out of the house like a rocket anyway.
You’ve done a great job.
Thanks so much and for the insight 😀 I was pleasantly surprised how much better the Knauf stuff is compared to the old fibreglass stuff I had to mess about with. By the time I'd moved onto the new stuff, my skin had had enough and can't imagine doing it without overalls and gloves 😆
Insulation is a must, but since putting in our loft insulation I find the humidity has increased in the home quite a lot and we see more condensation than before. We have had the insulation independently surveyed and its fine, so we are looking at installing a venting system in the loft to help tackle the increase in humidity.
make sure you leave a gap by the eves as you need air flow other wise you will get mould and damp in your rooms and loft
Thanks 😀
I used cosywool sheeps wool insulation from Celtic sustainables on two houses now. So easy to handle, only need a mask and sheep shears to cut it.
No itch and a total pleasure to fit 😂
That sounds pleasant :) Thankfully the Knauf stuff didn't irritate me, but I was fed up by the time I got to that area because handling the old stuff was blooming awful lol
your B&Q not do a cutting service ? ours does worth checking saves a lot of hassle :)
I wish my local one did, but sadly not. It's nearly an hour's drive for a cutting service.
You've made me realise that I need to inrease my loft insulation. Great job you've both done and as usual cracking video.
Thanks 👍 Glad you enjoyed it 😀
It's a tough job insulating the loft but you will notice the difference well done 👍
Thanks! I'm glad we persevered as we've definitely noticed a difference!
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK I did the same to our bungalow, also 25mm Xtratherm to some walls that needed replastering and 100mm under the floor again were floors needed replacing. It's a lot of work and existence but it pays for it self.
Any thoughts on changing the hot water cylinder for a pressurised sealed cylinder and hence the attic tank can be removed. They are more efficient and retain heat the heat rather well and make it as large as possible. Currently in existing property I have a 210 litre in the new property currently installing a 250 litre. Been up in the loft space above a garage installing loft insulation and pipework and cable's, under a shallow roof. I too am sick and tired of banging my head on roof trusses. I feel your PAIN! About to break through into the main house between floors, can't come soon enough.
I've boarded all my lofts (or extended existing boarding) apart from the one I have currently. (Access is extremely difficult so we aren't using for storage - and we have a barn anyway!) In each case I've basically ignored the fact that the insulation extends above the existing joists and just laid the boards on top; this compresses the insulation and I'm pretty sure it reduces its effectiveness. So my question is what *should* I have done? (And also how will you deal with this conundrum?) Keep up the good work!
Very very good question. I've watched loads of videos now about not compressing it and do have an idea I might do, which I talk about in next week's video 😀
It would’ve definitely reduced the effectiveness- 100%
Put extra joists at right angles to the existing ones. I used 200mm joists and insulated he resulting space between old and new joists. I then boarded over the top.
I'd have stripped off the old pipe lagging and put the new in its place which is how it is designed. When you now board off some of the loft, make sure not to compress the insulation. Also, when putting boards in place remember you may need access for new cabling in due course. With the header tank, lag round it as well as on top because the loft will now be colder. But well done, probably one of the worst DIY jobs and support another comment, cool shower afterwards. Keep going, long way to go yet.
You only know if you've done a good enough job once you get a thermal camera and check all the ceilings for cold spots. Loft Vent Trays would maintain the eave vents, but they cost money... Have you thought of a 50mm airgap below any boarding otherwise you may risk condensation on the underside and joists?
Yes... hoping to buy a thermal camera at some point but they're a bit expensive. And yes, I've researched lots of boarding videos and having an air gap, but so much more to consider to prevent ceiling cracking, so still pondering on it
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK There used to be free thermal camera loans from energy firms, like Octopus, bit late for this year but worth a Google. There's daily paid hire from Mark1Hire, etc. Got all my info from Steve the Roofer (who's open to questions btw) and from the old Fixmyroof channel...there's never a perfect solution!
I've done this to 3 houses in my time, I'm hoping to never have to do it again.😂
Thinking next time there should be an easier way.
We used central heating and a gas fire in our house, against the underfloor heating the 33 square m conservatory ( both gas ). The result was a difference of £5 less per day using the conservatory, also the central heating comes on for short periods twice a day. That’s the normal winter rates of uses, in summer our gas is standing charge only, whilst electric is £1.50 per day with solar panels and a battery. Not sold on ASHP yet due to noise and output in winter
£1.50 per day plus the cost of the solar panels
Apparently
Building Regs require loft thermal insulation to achieve a U-value of at least 0.16W/m2K (the lower the better), typically achieved by 250mm of mineral wool or 120mm Celotex pir board. My problem is I have dormers which take up most of the loft space with a 170mm gap tiles to ceiling; must have a 50mm air gap between tiles and the insulation above bedroom ceiling, so can I push strips of 120mm pir along between the joists to provide insulation? The strips would have to be around 3metres long (width of bedroom) & guessing 2mm gap each side to allow them to be pushed into place without jamming.
I bought enough rolls of fibreglass insulation for my large house nearly 20 years ago and put the rolls in the loft ready to insulate the roof. 20 years later the rolls are still up there untouched purely because of the same issues you had in this video.
That bay window in the dining room is quite bizarre. Reminds me of a 19th century shop front.
Nice work Vickie. Top marks for keeping the cables above the insulation.
Not sure about putting the foam pipe lagging over the wool. I imagine the split foam won’t have ‘closed’ around the pipe, leaving a gap.
Thanks! I don't remember any splits in the end with lots of cable ties. But with that and the extra insulation too, I'm hoping that's all it needs
Well done Vickie. Insulating the loft is well within the scope of any DIYer, however it is a horrible, awkward job and painful job that you wish you had never started. But you chose the right time of year to tackle the job and being the right side of 70 years old does help a tad. Just one comment - Do you really need to keep the cold water tank?
Its only available sealed in bags in Australia as its classified as carcoagenic
A few weeks ago I did my Mum's barely insulated extension loft and today I did her main loft. I can confirm it's a GRIM job!
Lessons I learned. This wool insulation is a million times better to work with than the old fibreglass type. For today's job I took a spare set of clothes as I was a total sweaty mess both times & going home in a cold car when you're damp with perspiration is not pleasant. I dispensed with all non-essentials, such as boiler suit, goggles, mask etc... in favour of working quicker. I wouldn't do this with fibreglass insulation or if the loft was very dusty though.
I found it was easier to work when the first layer was down and I could spread my weight on the insulation, rather than balancing on beams. This allowed me to get into the tight corners (IE I lay on it to get into the edges. Don't be too precious about how it looks, just get it down & you can patch up any ropey-looking bits at the end. Work fast & get the hell out of there as soon as you can! As long as everything is covered in a thick layer, that's going to have to be good enough for me ; )
I did still feel fairly itchy when I got home but washed with cold water, then a hot shower after & feel fine now. Glad that job is done & hope I never have to do it again!
I would use a very sharp bread knife to cut the fibre glass. Much less itchy
I always take my circular saw to B&Q 😊but yeah this is up there with the worst of DIY you melt doing it in summer and freeze if you do it in winter
great job
Proper grafter… job well done 👍
I got it done for free, the trouble was the stench .It must have been stored in an old barn .I got them back to take it all away ,then had to clean downstairs . I then bought the foil coated stuff and non smelly insulation .Later I got double foiled rolls to cover the floored part . When you get round to removing the header tank . If it is plastic use an old saw to cut it into manageable bits .The big bonus is the money you will get from selling the copper pipes plus your boiler .
Great video! Can I lay the top layers over the electric codes?
Tuck them under. I didn't show it, but we tucked ours under the electric cables where possible
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Thank you!
This is a job I need to do too. The house we have is 2 old miners cottages and the lofts are a total disaster. One half is filled with black plastic sheeting with an inch of sand as insulation plus insulating roll which hasn’t been installed well and the other house is the same without the sand but with random boards unfixed so a total mess. I’m ripping it out slowly and starting again, a horrible job.
I recommend Rockwool over fibreglass, but appreciate the cost difference. I'm removing the box-in-box model in my cottage (taking away the plasterboard walls that open into the loft and circle the rooms with cold air) in favour of lime. Lots of work but very satisfying, instantly warmer and looks lovely.
Just a little tip although a bit late now lol but when sawing the insulation saw a bit then snap it over your knee
I tried so many times and gave up looking for quick ways in the end 😅 they were stubborn!!!
I bet you're glad that's over and done with! Horrid job! But at least it wasn't fibreglass. I've handled that before when insulating my van. I stuffed sandwich bags with it. Even though I did it outside, I still ended up with horribly irritated skin. You have a huge loft. Maybe you could convert it into living accommodation.
I would have thought you would go with PIR board which I believe doesn't need so much thickness, however, you do have quite a large loft space to stand in compared to my home which WILL use PIR board due to space being very minimal.
I would have loved to, but the cost put me off. Also, there's very little information online about what air gap you need under boarding, and I wasn't sure how it would have been assessed with an EPC assessor as I was initially going to board areas first before it being assessed.
These properties are like fridges (Freezers?) with their non cavity insulation walls and underfloor external air ventilated foundations but it's all fun in the long run 🙃
Mines the same old build can have heating on all day for it to reach 17 lol
Hi vikki i know what its like to work with insulation i ve done it few times at work and sound deadening insulation .the mask is aproblem as the one i had the water in me breath would collect in the bottom under mouth so i had to wipe out once in a while
Feel the pain have done this before and was really struggling post it. Had hives and needed anti histamines
I feel for you doing that job, I've done it myself when we moved into this house, if I need to do it again I'll pay someone else to do it! For determining how everything is constructed I've found a cheap endoscope incredibly useful, including with working out our energy losses.
From my understanding a shrew is kind of handy to have, they're carnivorous and eat a lot (2-3 times their body weight per day), so in a house, they move in, eat any mice etc you have then run out of food and leave. We had one do a very effective job one year :)
Sadly though, living in a rural location has some down sides, as the external temperature drops the mice look for somewhere warm to move into, in October/November we probably catch about 12 mice in the loft, then nothing for the rest of the year. They'll get in almost anywhere if they want to, they can climb amazingly well and fit through the smallest of gaps.
Wow... sounds like I should've left the shrew in there 😆 have you ever found one in your loft in the past too? I've been told a few theories that a bird or prey probably dropped it on the roof.
Also, well have to set up a switch up there for our plug in mice deterrent devices. Not sure they work, but touch wood, not seen life of any mice yet!
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Ours shrew was in the house, happily not had any activity in the main house since it left. We did have mice, then we had a shrew, then we had nothing 🤣 We've not had one in the loft but there's no reason they couldn't walk up the inside of the cavity or one of the many other ways up. I'm not sure how our mice are getting in but they manage it. I need to try one of the plug in deterrents as well, let us know how it works :)
I hate insulating lofts. I was itchy for a week after I did mine. Never again. Not sure the hot water tank needed the jacket as it was already insulated.
Are you going to insulate your floor. I did mine last year. I have a bungalow with a suspended floor. I cut some access hatches and done it lying on my back. I used 170mm wool and then stapled netting to the underside.
I need to think about what we're going to do as we have solid concrete floors throughout. I'm wondering about silver foil bubble wrap type insulation on it, then plywood on top and hardwood flooring etc
This brings back memories of knocking over a pile of glass wool as a child, shudder
The one thing I'm not sure of given the description of 'glass mineral wool' is what happens when it gets wet. Glass wool loses it's R value, while Mineral wool does not... So what does Glass Mineral wool do?
2 tips: use a sharp carving knife instead of a saw to cut the fibreglass. The immersion heater has to remain uncovered or it will overheat and trip should you ever use it.
Use EcoQuilt next time, it's fully enclosed in a foil cover, minimal cutting for eaves and you can do that outside and re tape the open ends before you take it upstairs.
Of all the tasks on a house build I hate insulating the most!
same