I repeatedly watched this tutorial although I had already replaced the plugs and they were good for 70,000 more kms. For me, it was just relaxing to watch it. Interestingly, the video turned out to be a socalled "unintended ASMR".
Thanks for posting this video. After many visits to many workshops and their lack of interest to do the job as it should be done, I was forced to DIY mode. I am glad because of this. Rear spark plugs and coils where swimming in oil (2-3dcl). Replaced the gaskets and spark plugs. Fortunatelly, coils are fine. Now finding the way to approach the O2 sensor in a way to be easily removed/replaced. I can see that front catalyst has two O2 sensors (IN/OUT). I see only one at the back. Maybe there's fourth somewhere or I guess they were thinking that fourth would be an overkill... Thanks again! P.S. I have some footage too, but nothing with the pro approach like you did. Hopefully next time I will prepare myself better for this kind of adventure to be able to share something useful with others! Cheers!
Hi there, well done on doing the job yourself. With regards the 02 sensors, i cant actually remember how many the V6 had as i never changed them. However here is a link to a site for peugeot parts diagrams (handy to use in general) its for a 406 but the same engine. Its showing 4 02 sensors in this diagram catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot/?lang=en&fbclid=IwAR0_lP0MLePfEgd5X0V7Q78jm_9e9WehaUjVHCPRXgmfj1jIhwehoj9aZQk#c3Q9PTgwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiNDA2IChyZXN0eWxpbmcpIiwiNDAiOiJCb2R5OiA0IERPT1IgU0FMT09OIFwvIEVuZ2luZTogMy4waSBWNiAyNHYgMjEwIChFUzlKNFMpIiwiNTAiOiJtZWNoYW5pY2FsIiwiNzAiOiJlbWlzc2lvbiBjb250cm9sIiwiODAiOiJSRUdVTEFUT1IgQk9YIEVYSCBURU1QIFBST0JFIn18fGNvZGU9PTFQRDl8fGJvZHk9PUIwREE0fHxlbmdpbmU9PUIwRjNMfHxjYXRfaWQ9PUZDVDAwMDF8fHN1YkdycF9pZD09RkNUMDAxMnx8cmVmZG9jcz09RDlHMTE2SjQ3QXx8cmVmZG9jPT1EOUcxMTZKNDdBfHxzdWJHcnBOYW1lPT1SRUdVTEFUT1IgQk9YIEVYSCBURU1QIFBST0JFfHxzdXBwbGllcj09
Very, very nice post indeed. It is so common the V6 is leaking the oil, so everybody to understand what has to be done to stop leaking is of a great thank you... Just one remark: See 7:27... The crankcase ventilation tube. Be enourmously aware of breaking the tube. It is so easy to break it. Be really carefull.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. The crankcase ventillation tubes did fall to pieces on me, if you continue on to about 15:36 i deal with that. Its best to remove this part entirely and replace those brittle hoses with new silicone ones.
Hi I have peugeot 607 with the same engine thanks to you I was able to preform this operation but I still have leaks. I will do it again. Keep up the videos. I have also 106 and 307 your videos were very helpful. Best regards from Bulgaria.
Thanks for the comment, glad to hear you are finding the videos useful. 607 really suits this engine they handle a bit sharper than the C5 i find, does yours have the adaptive dampers? The rocker gaskets, they can take a few attempts to get right. The problem is them two plastic ones, i think the plastic warps. It may be why servicebox lists new covers with new gaskets but not the gaskets on their own. At the time i had this C5 i considered making new rocker covers from aluminium to replace the plastic ones. They might last a bit longer.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Yes mine is with the adaptive dampers, and manual transmission but I have problem with the front left one it's leaking oil and l am not able to find replacement, the only ones available new are standard and I am thinking to change both front ones with normal dampers, but there is another option that I have that is rebuilding them but I am not sure if it will work. You can give me your opinion on the topic. When you have Peugeot that is this old you have many problems to fix but dispide that I like the brand. My 307 drove me around for 10 years with almost no mechanical issues and now my BSI is gone crazy and the car doesn't start, but that is another topic. About the covers, I have seen older v6 engines ( 406 coupe) and they don't have plastic ones. Are the engine covers compatible with one another. Best regards,
@@salimustafov5924 I very briefly owned a V6 automatic 607, by very briefly i used my card to pay for one a mate had bought at auction, it was nice to drive, although i never noticed the adaptive dampers have a huge change. I dont know if you can get rebuild items for them adaptive dampers, perhaps they are the same part as some 407s used. Personally i would just change the suspension to the regular dampers they work sufficenly well. The 307 bsi, it can be a corroded earth or perhaps damp on one of the connectors on the footwell, it can case plenty of odd electrical issues on these cars, even a low battery. A peugeot planet tool is very useful with the cars you own. There are two versions of the ES9 V6 the early ones have 190hp the later 210hp cars have the variable valve timing and a few other bits, the covers are not a direct swap if i recall correctly. I had the C5 and Xantia V6 both at the same time and remember looking at both engine to compare the two.
Hi thanks for the comment. For torques that low i generally prefer to use my own sense of feel, just dont trust torque wrenches down to those smaller numbers, i dont think my 3/8 one will go down to 25Nm the 1/4" drive wrench will but there is no 1/4 drive socket big enough for spark plugs. Stuff like head bolts, big end caps, flywheel bolts etc i see the point of the torque wrench. However for spark plugs i generally just cinch them up by hand and never had an issue to date. Although obviously if its a first time for working round cars and one has not yet developed the sense of knowing how tight to go then its probably best to seek out a torque wrench that can reach that range and follow the correct specs.
Elaborate but doable job and I have to do the same since shops i asked didn't want or could do it. And I didn't think of the vacuum lines. Shame that P or C don't stock gaskets! Good helpful video, thanks!
Breather system part explained well why I have rubber hoses changed to breather system by previous owner. Last original one did snap while doing the repair.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV The truth is that it is quite buried, but stretching a lot and feeling with my hands and with a mirror, I had it in about 3 hours. If you want to see, I can send you a video of how the covers are buried in the Avantime.
VERY nice video, and informative too. I have a 3.0/V6 too and using a 200°C sealant (ie. loctite 5980) wasn't good for me. It still kept leaking :-( Loctite adviced me to use 5990. Also, always use at a torque wrench. My SEDRE manual says 8 Nm (and not 10Nm) for the top/lid bolts and and even with that mounting torque my thread in the cylinder head was broken. Following i had to remove the cylinder head covers (which is a completely another story) 3 days spent.
Hi Lars Thanks for the comment. Strange the differences in figures for the torque figure, I am using a SEDRE manual off eBay I need to double check but I thought it was 0.1da.Nm. Still, you need to be careful as they seem to be going into soft aluminium, the usual precautions should be taken threads should be cleaned out fully, no liquids in there etc. I found out what the problem was on mine, (i did the second cover another 2 times after this video) the mating surface on the engine and the outer edge of the cover do not run parallel with each other. I put marker down on the mating surface then pressed on an A3 page which gave me an outline of the mating surface with bolt holes, then cut out the paper with a scalpel (Exacto knife) brought this over to the rocker cover and drew around that, then I knew what path to take with the sealant. It was quite a bit different in some areas and should avoid certain areas having less sealant in contact with the 2 parts. Temperature is also an important consideration, loctite advises a nice warm environment for the sealant to cure, otherwise more time if the garage is cooler. I do not have any decent heaters in my shed so I chose to wait to let the sealant cure if you have emailed them I'm guessing they may have discussed the cure time and temperature as well? I haven't actually been daily driving this car yet but running it in the yard it seems to have sealed. I hope that helps if you want to send me a PM through youtube and I can discuss this further via email I more pictures of how I resolved this issue.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Good job.... I want to know when fabricating the plastic covers with aluminum if it has to be the same shape as the plastic or it can be done just as the shape of the original aluminum covers.... Thanks....
The map sensor is easy to remove if you first loosen the manifold and remove the manifold to the right. Now the manifold is free and easy access to the map sensor You can also let the tube that is connected hidden underneath the manifold be in place until the manifold is free.
I contacted a number of different Citroen specialists who recommended the Loctite stuff, although id say other products do the same job just as well. Do you have any links to the stuff you used? The plastic covers are hard to seal if the old gasket is removed because of the channel they have for the gasket to sit inside. The aluminium covers are easy to seal. That is why i am considering making up replacement aluminium covers to get rid of the two plastic ones.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Sounds really interesting to make custom aluminum covers! Also expensive I think. I still have some leaks so I have to go on with the rest of the covers.. Here is the Permatex "Right Stuff": www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/the-right-stuff-gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us PDF: 441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/25223.pdf
@@sauliaalto2835 I work as a design engineer so had considered modelling up the covers in solidworks and making them from aluminium. Although where i work we mainly make stuff from steel it wouldnt be too hard to send off the CNC files to a place with a laser cutter and have someone good on a TIG welder put all together. Should have still cost less than buying two plastic covers new from the dealer.
Favor comentar que producto se utilizó para sellar tapas metálicas y que tiempo de secado se le dio para evitar fugas nuevamente. Espero tus comentarios. Gracias.
I should have watched this before changing ignition coil at rear bank. I was fighting one hour behind the manifold to open the bolts of the brackets. Yes I realized after removing the manifold that you could just slide it right and I felt like an idiot. :D
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No no, I was simply an idiot when changing the coil and removed the pins from the rocker cover working behind the manifold. So it was extra time removing the bolts behind the manifold before I saw how it works. Now when I got the Locktite bottle I knew more and disassembling was 5min job. :P
Nice manual, just needed to do mine, but i took a little different approach to it. Since i am experimenting so i did only front plastic cover. Instead of throwing old gasket out, i cleaned grooves with withspirit, gasket as well, put it back and then applied sealant on the top. Will see how that holds. Since grooves where gasket stays are pretty deep, i thought that filling with sealant is too challenging, might leave air gaps.
Its worth trying, i initially tried putting the sealant on the old gaskets but i think the oil on the gaskets may not have helped the adhesion process. Ideally i think the covers would need to be remade out of aluminium.
@@andrewjs2989 Thank you! I will try this out. I already tried just sealant, but didn't seal, presumably because most of it goes into the sealant groove, and don't want to apply too much, because don't want it to get it inside the system.. Then I tried just cleaning, but the gasket must have become too slim, or too hard by itself to make good seal Always happy to hear any new ideas as this is really killing me :D
One other question please, with the vacuum hoses mine too were brittle and broken. When you made up new ones how did you connect the ends? Do you have a picture please
14:42 onwards in the video, the type of hoses used are mentioned and also i show some pictures admittedly not enough of the ends being changed The ends are easy to remove, a stanley knife is just run along the pipe where the connector is to split the pipe then pull off the connector. I dont have many more pictures but its as simple as that.
@@sauliaalto2835 14:35 has the sizes all there, i do not have any links unfortunatley as the specific listings have probably been updated dozens of times since they were up. However if you search for silicone vacuum hose and find the diameters listed (or as close as possible) that should sort out that issue.
@@sauliaalto2835 Haha no worries you made me double check the video, but i put those dimensions in because id probably have forgot myself otherwise. Best of luck with the repair.
Good video! The guy who had the Citroën C5 before me did this job but still leaking. Have to redo that. What I noticed is some of the bolt were missing threads :( Be very gentle with the tools. I had to repair them with "helicol" M6 x 1 to fix that.
Sauli Aalto Hi The threads are very light, even torquing to the spec in the service manual feels too much. I still have a leak in one of the front plastic covers and i plan to remove the two plastic ones draw them up on solidworks and get aluminium ones made to replace them
Hi there, thanks for the comment Unfortunately no my day job at the moment leaves me with little time to do any mechanical work in the evening and i am also in northern Ireland There is several Citroen specialists in England you may need to ask on the owners clubs/Facebook groups but i know there is chevronics and another chap near burnley. Probably a handful of others, a Renault or peugeot specialist may also be able to help as this same engine was used in them. Wow though a petrol C6, i would love a C6 but put off by the reliability of an aging diesel one, if i was to buy one it would definitely be the petrol. Are they ULEZ exempt?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hey..thanks for the reply. Yes, it is ULEZ exempt being a petrol. It is for sale on AT at the moment...the only petrol C6 for sale in the UK as far as I know. Price is set to make sure the new buyer does not abuse it, as it belongs in a museum as we won't see the like again 😞
Hi there, rocker cover gaskets is what i was calling them. There are 4 in total, two on the rear bank two on the front. Not sure about the left and right references as the engine is mounted transversely.
Thanks for this explanation, great job. Please, I have a Peugeot 407, V6 engine, 2004 limousine. I cannot find the gasoline filter. Can you help me? I looked under the entire car and did not find it.
Hi there, I believe it has been done, google shows a few examples. Ive seen forum threads where the V6 got planted into a C2 and also a 205 anything is possible. The 206 has slightly more room, although i would not be keen on changing a cambelt in a 206 V6 haha, it was bad enough in the avantime. It's just going to take time and money, and a fair bit of homework by reading through forums to see how it's done.
hey, thanks for the video! Have followed it and its really helped. I am in the process of re-sealing the rear valve cover (middle) but it wont sit flat against the head. Looks like there is a small fingernail gap. I cleaned the sealant and reapplied much less with the same problem, all bolts go in except the two long ones on the back left of the engine. Any advice here?
Hi there, Glad to hear it helped. These valve covers are a pain, especially the plastic ones never really got it to seal 100% on the C5 i was very tempted to have aluminium ones made up. Ideally you'd need to be able to get new seals but the part diagrams lists a new cover with gaskets no gaskets on their own. So the cover your having issues reading your comment is the rear bank plastic one? When you say it wont sit flat, if you take this cover over to a flat surface such as a table or tile will it sit flat, is the cover itself by any chance warped? When you mention the bolts 7 and 2 are those the ones that are in the diagram that appears at 11:40 in the video? Im looking back here ive annotated it that the back bolts are the longer ones. What is happening are they bottoming out on anything? Can you see any detritus or old sealant down their holes or corrosion? You might need to get a pick down into the holes to clear them out, spray a bit of wd40 down the hole and work the bolts in and out a few times to make sure they go down fully. Doing that with the cover out of the road. Compare how far they go down relative to bolts 3 and 8. Hopefully its just a bit of something down the hole preventing them from going in fully. Chevronics might be worth asking about new valve covers, or ask them if they have any fix for the issue. I know they are partial to get the odd thing remanufactured. I was doing the avantime engine there last year and had looked into getting a pair of new plastic rocker covers, it was an engine out job on the avantime to sort a few things and i wasn't going to gamble the covers not sealing 100% but the price for them was about £200 i think. Sadly the avantime was beyond restoration mainly due to corrosion of the sills and axle mounting points so it never got looked any further. That was the last time i looked at an ES9. I dont have any cars with it at the moment. Apart from that flaw i think they are quite a good engine, they seem to be an improvement over the old PRV engine, although then they came out at a time when everyone started to want diesels. Anyhow i digress quite severely there, let me know how you get on, it will be good to hear how you get on.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the quick response! I have the aluminium cover and I don’t think it is warped.. hopefully not. I spent all night trying to reseal the valve cover, with no luck. What is happening is that the bolts (7) and (2) which are the long ones drop through the valve cover and don’t reach the thread. I tried to clean inside the screw holes with a small screwdriver and looks like there is a bit of oil. Without the cover they thread in completely fine. It’s just with the added cover and silicone they don’t want for reach the holes. I will put the cover flat on a piece of paper to see if it is not warped, and like you said spray some brake cleaner or something down the holes. Alternatively can i try to source longer valve cover bolts for those back ones and use them instead?
I did the operation mostly yesterday. Front head was roughly an hour and rear hour and half. Most of the time is spent cleaning parts, mechanical work is less than half an hour combined.
2:58 in the video, loctite 5890 You can leave it about an hour it might gain a slightly tacky feel then install the cover. The sump/oil pan. No i never removed it as it was still dry, not sure if the subframe needs to come out for that.
I performed the same job resealing rockers. Front bank done yesterday, back bank 5 hours ago. Went for a short drive and went up in smoke. Leakage around all gaskets. How long do you suggest it has to cure before usage? I will have to redo the job, that's no problem. But any tips on doing it right the second time? Is exessive sealant idea?
It took a few goes on the C5. The most important thing to do is clean the mating surfaces and use an A3 page to rub out (make an impression of the mating surface) using your finger on the back side of the page. Transfer that over to the rocker covers. You will see that the mating surface does not run perfectly offset with the outer edge of each cover. If you can use the page to trace the mating surface outline onto the inner edge of the cover then apply sealant between the lines that will ensure it works better. The plastic covers are just a nightmare, i am not a big fan of them at all, especially given that they must be bought new to get new gaskets. However if you pile in with the sealant and let it half cure out in the air for an hour before offering it to the engine it can improve its chances of sealing. Another tip is to ensure the mating surfaces are pefectly clean and dry to give the sealant the best chance. Give it a few hours, preferably leave it overnight to cure when the covers have been put back on and the bolts tightened.
Redid the whole job. Made sure to apply an even thicker layer on the covers. Along with that I sealed the outside crevice aswell. 10 mins into idle and so far only old oil's burning up :)
I cant remember, emanuals online had the full dealer level workshop manual which i used. From memory the torque figure given was much higher than it felt safe to tighten those small bolts up to, emailing citroen specialists at the time they recommended just tightening the bolts by hand with common sense as the official torque figure was inclined to strip the threads.
To be honest i dont know I just buy from my local motor factors they order the parts using the cars registration number as will the likes of websites such as autodoc or euro car parts. I do know that NGK plugs were fitted but i do not recall the specific part number
After all these years, you're still getting questions. :) Great job! Did you reuse the old gaskets and add the gasket maker as dressing, or did you remove the old gaskets completely, and do all the sealing with the gasket maker? I wasn't able to catch that with enough certainty. Thanks for sharing!
Its good to see there are still people keeping these engines still running. No i did not reuse the old gasket, the gasket maker did it all. Took a few goes. I am still not a big fan of the 2 plastic covers, always considered having them manufactured out of aluminium as i think the plastic might warp with age slightly. Although the track it has for the original rubber seal doesnt quite suit the sealant too well wheras the aluminium covers the sealant works quite well on. A tip about the aluminium covers, push an a3 page over the mating surface on the head where the covers will sit down. Then transfer the pattern onto the underside of the covers. You will see that the mating surface does not exactly follow the outline of those covers, its better to use a line drawn from the paper template to guide where to put the sealant. Ive actually got an avantime V6 in at the moment to get the work all done on it, although with the avantime the engine has to come out to get the cambelt out but it will perhaps make better video content on this subject.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV As a matter of fact, mine was by chance. :) I was looking for a post-facelift C5 with H3+ for my wife and our family trips (which, my Alfa 156 is not suited for) and this was the only one in Turkey. I find the engine quite good though, even economical for a 2000s 1.5 ton car. I have a soft spot for what others would call "quirky cars", also running a Xantia X1 VSX as my daily driver, which, as of yesterday, I think has a seized engine. :D As you explained, the leaks from the metal covers were easy to fix. And replacing with custom-made metal ones is the permanent solution. If I can manage to make the car hold for until end of summer, I might be able to keep the car in storage long enough for me to have them made, while driving the other two. Otherwise, I'll have to buy the covers as wife will need the car running. Avantime is very interesting. One of the cars I want to own at least for some time, but it's far beyond my financials in Turkey. Even a simple headlight replacement would cost a lot, as one would have to import the part, and it's not easy to obtain used parts. Thanks for taking the time to answer! I'll also share my experience if I'm successful. Going to try using Permatex Ultra Black for the job. Wish me luck. :)
As a note ...not mentioned in this great video...on the EGR pipes you will need to buy a spring/s to line the inside of the new silicone pipes so that they don't collapse when subjected to the inlet manifold pressure ...this will be on the pipes after the little manifold to the throttle assembly...The original pipes were corrugated and rigid but these new silicones pipes collapse when under vacuum and also get even softer when hot....Make these springs just small enough to go inside the pipes and so line the interior of them. They won't get sucked past the ends as they should be too big for the ends and the inlet joiner....cheers
Leider kann es bei den Ventildeckel aus Kunststoff zu Problemen beim abdichten kommen. Wenn die verzogen sind, aus welchen Gründen auch immer, bekommt man die kaum noch abgedichtet. Diese Ventildeckel kann man leider nicht mehr kaufen, jedenfalls in Deutschland. Welches Dichtmittel haben Sie zum abdichten genommen?
After reading comment section you made me think to make outter metal plate (thick) that would follow the shape of the part and to use the longer bolts. Maybe that would press the cover evenly. From what I read I got a feeling the leak will continue to happen.
amazing work :) congrats.... I replace the two rocker covers for new ones because I had the same problem with the gasket :( and I have to make the same but with the others covers.... its good idea use that sealant?
You purchased new plastic covers? Do they include the gasket with them? Using the sealant is generally the only opiton, it works fine on the aluminium covers but not perfectly on the plastic ones.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes they include the gasket, but now I have to change the others covers..the metal covers... and I don't have the gasket for them and I'm relaxed now with your answer :) muchas gracias :)
@@PabloGHerreraBravo Ah i see, i always suspected that from the servicebox diagrams that the plastic ones came with the gasket thanks for confirming that. If it is not too rude a question how much did the pair of plastic covers cost?
hi, I hope you can help me with a little problem that I have. I want to use a product to clean the catalytic system, its mannol catalytic system cleaner 9201. I saw some videos to use it, and I have to connect to a vacuum pipe? and I don't know where is it. I think I have to connect after the acceleration body right?
Thanks for this detailed job... Just wanted to know when fabricating the plastic covers in Aluminum should it be identical or I can use the shape of the original aluminum covers. Thanks....
I would say make the aluminium covers follow the same shape as the gasket does on the plastic ones. No the original aluminium covers are differently shaped from memory, and it is safer to assume that the two plastic covers have a different shape also, certainly one has the connections for the PCV system
@@alexackah6767 It will be great to see someone do this, i was very close to doing it but then got a 406 V6 to replace this C5 and surprisingly it did not leak
I tried it a few times, i found the best thing to do was to let it sit for about an hour first, it had not fully cured but had a bit of shape then put the cover on. To be honest them plastic rocker covers are hard to seal, ideally if some aluminium ones were made to replace them it would be far better, i think the plastic simply warps and there is no great way of getting it to seal. It is why peugeot & citroen dont list the gaskets on their own only new covers and gaskets together.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hmm yes that is what I thought that it would be the best to let it solidify for some time so it will have better sealing effect. I own Peugeot 406 coupe with older V6 3.0 and it have aluminium cover.
@@Cosm1c_69 The older engine in some ways might be the better one to have, no variable valve gubbins to give trouble and 4 aluminium rocker covers. The only thing i remember about a Xantia V6 i had with that engine was that it was hard to find a replacement coil pack for the back bank. A great engine when combined with a manual box.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I also heard that new versions have this variable valve and that it cause problems. I noticed that new version have weird rocker cover and I suspected that they may be some kind of plastic. Now I know for sure. Also plastic air intake manifold. It seem they searched way to make this fat engine more slim :D Yes my version have 1 coil and then it is connected with rest 3 spark plugs by a high voltage cords. But at least in my country they are not that hard to find. But there is some brands made very cheap. I have one of those not to good ones. My high voltage wires they are from company called bougicord. I have weird problem that I think may be result of poor quality of those wires. In very dark spot when I look at them they seem to have internal glow. It is like seeing blue laser moving fast in them seen from time to time. When I touch them I see micro sparks hitting my fingers. It is not hurting at all. But as for my average knowledge I doubt that it is good thing to see any glow in high voltage wires. I think that this is creating problem that I experiencing from long time. When I accelerate on 2nd gear at around 2000-2900rpm I heel inconsistent acceleration. It is like mild hesitations. On 1st gear it is barelly noticeable but I believe I can feel similar behaviour on this low gear. On other gears I dont feel this at all. Another thing is that about year ago when I changed spark plugs and coil and those wires I noticed that old ones were also Bougicord and yes they glow in the dark so I decided to change them too. But upon change I noticed engine oil in spark plug bays on far side of those 3 cylinders where those wires are plugged in. So that is why I am interested in making new seal for them. Also if oil is getting into those spark plug bays then it also may be causing this problem that I described. When I rew my engine up at around 2K and above to about 3k I feel my whole car is shaking little to much. Not like working on 5 cylinders but I definately can feel it is not smooth as near 1K rpm and above 3k RPM so there is something wrong with my engine :(
@@Cosm1c_69 There was talk on wikipedia that porsche was consulted for the retuning of this engine when the newer version came out, not sure how true the porsche connection is as its hard to find other information about that. This page is a good source www.citroenet.org.uk/passenger-cars/psa/c5/c5tech2.html However with regards the spark, you should not see a blue spark, thats the wires shorting which will cause your running issues new leads would be needed, and oil should not be in the spark plug wells as that will also lead to a misfire.
Great job !! Do you remember the diameter of the crankcase breather hose ? I need to reseal all 4 rocker covers on my ES9J4 as the last 'reseal' only lasted 30.000 kms !! This is a design bug of this engine, as the oil can get into the timing belt area !!
Hi, thanks for the comment I couldnt remember those diamaters at all haha. Although i see ive put them into the video at 14:35 as i must have known id forget it. They are 10mm id x 16mm od and 16mm id x 22mm od. I found the metal covers seemed to seal ok, but the plastic ones would not. The older ES9 engine had 4 aluminium covers that were less prone to this issue. Im not entirely sure if oil will get into the timing belt area as its fairly sealed off in itself, oil in there might be coming from the cam or crankshaft seals. I think the best way to solve the oil leak issue would be to have the plastic covers replaced with aluminium ones. I was going to do it on this C5 but sold this car on, the V6 is nice although the automatics used with them dulled the performance too much.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I had worst leak on rear aluminium cover, then front alu and front plastic and rear plastic one was basically dry. (this is 305 000 km driven car) I don't know if plastic ones were changed in some time in history but at least I did not find anything mentioned in service history as mostly every bigger receipt has been saved in my C5.
peugeotCtroen2CV @0:24 what causes spark plugs to be soaked in oil and what would sealing/gasket should i be replacing on this engine 🤔? I'd really appreciate your help and reply man.
Keep watching the video all your questions are answered in it. The rocker covers leak and he oil fills the spark plug wells, the name of the sealant used is referenced to in the video.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks man. I appreciate your reply.. i think i got a bit lazy and asked the question prematurely instead of watching the whole video. Thanks again 🙏😁
I'm half way through stumbling through the process of resealing the valve covers on my V6 406 and it looks like last time it was done they did the upper AND lower covers... Any tricks you know of to removing the lower valve covers to reseal them?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes... "Ladders" The same sealant was around the valve covers as is around where the ladders meet the head so I figured they both could do with resealing
@@bradFNrobinson They are a bit more work than the rocker covers, you basically need to remove the cambelt covers, lock the engine and then remove these ladders to reseal them. I have the engine of an Avantime apart at the moment, down to this stage. Its the same ES9 engine. Send me a message on Facebook if you want any pictures of the engine disassembled down to that stage facebook.com/PC2CV
Thanks for that! Will do! The car is at my eco lodge in the forest which I will be going back to next week so I would really appreciate some advise so I can finish getting the job done myself. Chur
Did you replace one or all of the ignition coils? Any engine management lights or fault codes present? There are still other sensors and components that could cause a misfire, fuel injectors are the first thing i think of.
That converts to roughly 136,000 miles which isnt really a huge amount, i sold a 406 V6 with the same. Having said that big petrols at least over here in Northern Ireland do not command a huge price, i made double the value for a 2.2 Diesel 406 than a 3.0 V6 406 with the same miles and spec. However it depends on the condition of your 407, are V6s generally worth much, does the car have any sentimental or intangible value to yourself? If its just the rocker covers leaking then they can be sorted fairly handily, generally thats the main leak area from these V6 engines. Cambelt replacement is the most expensive item, its a job that can be done yourself i have a video but the belt kit is over £250 from most reputable sources.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the prompt response. I really like the car however here in Australia you virtually can't give them away. It's had the water pump and timing belt done probably 70000km ago by previous owner. I can't do the oil leaks myself but mechanic has quoted over $1000
@@joeprogrock Generally the 3.0 V6 engine is a fairly reliable engine, much much better than the old PRV V6 that it replaced and a lot more characterful than the 1.6 Prince engine that has essentially replaced it. Ideally these V6s require a willingness to do DIY maintenance otherwise the repair bills can get high. It depends on what is causing the oil leaks but its very common on these engines for the rocker covers to leak, definitely not a £1000 job. If i can politely recommend investing in a decent socket set its something that can be done DIY.
Hi, its one job i never got around to doing on my C5. I have a few forum threads saved relating to changing the transmission fluid, the LT fluid for these gearboxes is quite expensive and i think it works out at about £100 the last time i checked on opie oils. I am selling my C5 V6 and will leave changing the transmission fluid to the next owner.
@@malokojoao318 Crank sensor? What sort of diagnostic device are you using? Although its not implausible that the wires to the crank sensor might be at fault. You might need to get a wiring diagram and test the continuity of the wires from the crank sensor back to the ECU pins responsible. Odd though this happened just after a timing belt change.
Not necessarially, if you can be 100% sure you know exactly the cover that is leaking then just that one can be removed and resealed. Although if its one of the covers on the rear bank under the inlet manifold then its just as handy to do both while in there.
@@GabrielSTEFAN943 I binned the old gaskets on this car, although i think part of the problem with the plastic covers is that no replacment gaskets are available. If they were it would be a handy case of just putting new gaskets in and enjoy no more leaks. However with no replacment gaskets available i just pumped more of the sealant into the channels where the gaskets occupied, let it sit in a dry dust free cupboard for about and hour then install them onto the car. I sort of fell out of love with these V6 engines because of this oil leak issue. However if i was to keep one going i would have the plastic covers replaced with aluminium ones. It would require a pair of covers to be fabricated up by an engineering workshop but it would probably be the most permanent solution for these, it could cost about £300 to have that done. That might be worth it depending on how much you value the car.
Hi No, i couldn't find any and looked in a few locations. There never were gaskets for the metal covers, they used the sealant from the factory. The plastic covers have a gasket but the only new ones i can find is by going to the dealer for new covers which come with gaskets, from what i recall its over £100 for the covers and they could be over 10 years old sitting on a shelf. I considered using the covers off the older V6 which had 4 aluminium covers, but there is a different hole pattern. What im planning on doing is measuring up the plastic covers, and trying to get them reproduced in aluminium, then they can be installed with the same sealant as the plastic covers. I think the plastic just distorts with age and it would be better to replace it with an aluminium part.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV so the older model of the engine (ES9J4 XFZ 2.9 V6 24V 140kW) doesnt have any rubber gaskets? its just factory sealant on all four covers?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV i need help. im using a v6 607 with a bad gasket. the oil is keaking so bad i can smell from inside. im unable to get the gasket for months... i removed the gasket already and its so hardened up it broken... after watching the video, wow your heaven sent. Thanks for the clarity
@@shidaanii-noi9454 Hi, glad to hear this has helped you. The plastic rocker covers are a terrible feature of these engines, it took a few times to finally get them to seal properly. Ideally the solution would be to have a replacement set of aluminium rocker covers to replace the plastic ones made up.
Hi, I have just had this done on my Peugeot 406 3.0 v6 coupe, when the car started up it made a strange noise so it was turned off immediately and now it cranks but won't start! Any ideas on what the problem might be? Thanks!
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No everything was covered, and yeah all reconnected but it turns out the timing jumped and I'm unsure if the valves have been damaged!
@@peugeotCitroen2CV It still turns over by hand, but cant get the belts completely tight as the tensioner has failed so it needs replacing! Do you thing it would be worth replacing it, timing everything up and trying to start the car?
@@tattooreptiles Worth giving the car a chance. There is a way to pressure test each cylinder to see if the valves are holding pressure but it may require a bit of a yarn with someone with a bit more expertise, perhaps try the owners club.
Do you know the order of firing coils if you stand in front of the hood, number from inner coils to the outer coild near radiator, my OBD says bad coil B but is that nr 2 and where is nr 2 ? is it 1 2 3 from left inner to 4 5 6 from right outer ?
Hi there I am not too sure of the firing order but do you mean the numbering convention for the V6 engine? This might help www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/xantia-v6-png.138567/
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You are right i mean the number convention, OBD said B but no coil number and picture tell that B is the rear so it can be on of 4 5 or 6 then i will se if i get the fault back, i did a reset, the faulty is gone now but it happend when the engine was very warm one hot day, and disapeard after cooling (engine off for a while)
Hi, would you know if this engine (V6 3 litre petrol) has an EGR valve since my car seems to idle up and down and loose power especially once it warms up. Thanks
I never remember the Xantia, 406 or C5 V6s ive had in the past having an EGR valve. Although i did not go looking for it, i dont think they were fitted the emissions were low enough at the time and these engines used up to 4 catalytic converters. Now in the video here i did sort the cracked vacuum lines, it may be worth looking at them. In your instance when the car looses power does it misfire or throw up an engine management light?
This is when these rocker covers predominantly leak, when the engine is running. Especially noticeable as the oil will drip down on to the exhaust and create quite an unpleasent burning smell. Reseal the rocker covers as shown here which should cure the oil leak.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV That's exactly what's happening but then I don't see any oil around the plugs since I cleaned.... It leaked into the alternator and damaged it, just got it fixed and don't want that happened again....
@@alexackah6767 The spark plugs will not always leak You have 4 covers, the aluminium ones generally seal well but the plastic ones are a nuisance to seal. PSA actually only sell the plastic covers with new gaskets not new gaskets separately. Have a look through these comments, there are a few discussing the possibility of remanufacturing the plastic covers from aluminium. I would have done this myself but i sold my last V6 a few years ago. I think the plastic covers warp or deform in some way which causes them to leak.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV just trying to understand... If the cover gasket are on top but then leaks it at the bottom where the exhaust pipe is?... Thanks for bearing with me...
Has anyone been able to fix leaking on a variable valve timing solenoid? Mine is pouring constantly. I tried many custom gaskets, o-rings, joint makers, etc. but I can't make it stop leaking.
Is it the solenoid or is it the cam carrier? Down below the rocker cover the aluminium ‘ladder’ that holds down the camshafts apparently can leak Not too sure about the solenoid, although i think the channel citroman may have covered this aspect of these engines
Its really only the plastic ones that give the problems. The existing aluminium ones generally seal and are ready to go. Any links to the Alibaba listing? If i still had a car with an ES9 i would have probably looked more into this
These operations carried out at my Citroen C8 V6. The front valve cover repair is successful, only the rear cylinder head cover is not. Only this will only occur if the engine is warm. anyone here experience with how to solve it? We have again placed him two times and he continues to leak when the engine is warm.
Hi Citroen C8 V6, very nice! It only was available with 4 cylinders here. I’m confused by how you are referring to the covers, there are 4 on this engine, two on the front bank and two on the rear bank If you are at the front of the car and the cover closest to you is number 1 and the cover closest to the windscreen is number 4 what cover is causing issues? I found i had to reseal mine a few times to get a good seal and can tell you why i think it is the case. On the metal covers especially if you run the bead of sealant around the edge of the cover. The problem with just going around the edge of the cover is that the mating surface of the engine doesn’t always follow the same path as the edge of the cover does. Feel around the covers with your finger and there are areas where the cover can overhang more. If you have the sealant around the edge of the cover like this then there are areas where the sealant will be thinner when it seals against the engine. I found this a particular problem on cover number 2 around the oil cap. The solution i found was to remove the cover and clean all up again, both the cover and mating surface on the engine block. Then on the engine mating surface either get old oil or black marker and get a layer of old oil or marker ink on the mating surface, then press an A3 sheet down over the mating surface, you will create a template of the mating surface, be sure to get the bolt holes while doing this. Take the sheet and cut it out accurately with a knife. With a template of the mating surface made (and each cover would have its own different one to do) set it onto the cover, lining it up with the bolt holes on the cover, then trace around your template onto the cover. With the shape drawn onto the cover you can see where the sealant has to go, its not quite always in parallel with the outer edge of the cover. Obviously don’t put sealant where you have marked but rather in a bit where the mating surface will be in contact with. It seems that results in a much more substantial bead of sealant sealing the covers. One other thing to check is the use by date on your can of sealant.
Hi Mitchell. I experience the exact same problem, ie when engine is hot oil was dripping onwards the exhaust manifold. Imagine the smell...This is my personal experience: 1) take away ALL the old silikone on the cover and the bearing cap casing. You can use a silikone-remover chem which is applied in 2-6 hours. Prior to using the chem you can a use af shaver for glass ceramic owens. They are perfect for the job. Don't scratch the metal parts. This operation should not take more that 1 hr. 2) I used a de-crease remover, ie acetone. Afterwards I grinded both areas with sand paper grain size 400 - just smothly. Wipe the surfaces off without chemistry, just a clean tissue. 3) Make all your bolts, torque wrench, tissues, etc ready for the assembling, keeping in mind that the assembling shall be made in a continous prcess without pauses. 4) Note that the cover is not plain! but the cap bearing coves is. That means that sealer has to fill out approx. 1-2 mm which is not normal when assembling two surfaces. For this reason I used a quite big amount af sealer/silikone because it has to fill out the extreme gab between the parts (I wonder why Peugeot has made it this way...) However many sealants are only suitable up to fill out spaces up to a maximum of 1 mm, according to the sealant specs. However, Peugeot recomments "Loctite 5135". It is to my knowledge only available in France. The PN is "973569" and is called E10 in the reference manual. You can purchase it at www.carparts-pros.com for around 15€/100ml. "ReinZOsil" is also a brand. Hovever I did not have succes with this brand. Bear in mind that the sealant has to be RTV-sealant with working temperature not below 200°C 5) Apply a stripe of approx 6-8 mm in thickness (better to much than too less) on the bearing cap cover in a smooth way. The reason for this is that you in this way know exactly where to apply the sealant. 6) Mount the cover at once ensuring that the cover is liftet on the bearing cap cover and NOT slided in from the side. 7) Mount the bolts and finger tight them as well. 8) Use the Torque wrench to NO MORE THAN 8 Nm (= specs). Do not over tight them as the thread might will be damaged (and you will face a far more severe problem as you will have to remove the bearing cap cover/casing as well and that is a +25 hr job fixing the thread with a Heli Coil). Start with the bolts in the middle and work your way out. First 5 Nm. Herafter 8 Nm. 9) Wait at least 2 days for the sealant to cure. Remember the thickness of the sealant. High humidity willl decrease curing time 10) You now have a car that doesn't leak. Complete working hrs is less than 3. Regards /Lars
Thats very interesting to see that some company is actually making rocker cover gaskets for this engine. Googing ZBP-KJ0 brought up this interesting article www.drive2.com/l/606368844042224560/ I just cant seem to find a link for somewhere selling the gasket.
The vacuum lines broke due to the plastic going brittle, very common issue this video covers that fix. The rest of the work nothing else was broke. Why do you ask?
I repeatedly watched this tutorial although I had already replaced the plugs and they were good for 70,000 more kms. For me, it was just relaxing to watch it. Interestingly, the video turned out to be a socalled "unintended ASMR".
Thanks for posting this video. After many visits to many workshops and their lack of interest to do the job as it should be done, I was forced to DIY mode. I am glad because of this. Rear spark plugs and coils where swimming in oil (2-3dcl). Replaced the gaskets and spark plugs. Fortunatelly, coils are fine. Now finding the way to approach the O2 sensor in a way to be easily removed/replaced. I can see that front catalyst has two O2 sensors (IN/OUT). I see only one at the back. Maybe there's fourth somewhere or I guess they were thinking that fourth would be an overkill... Thanks again! P.S. I have some footage too, but nothing with the pro approach like you did. Hopefully next time I will prepare myself better for this kind of adventure to be able to share something useful with others! Cheers!
Hi there, well done on doing the job yourself.
With regards the 02 sensors, i cant actually remember how many the V6 had as i never changed them.
However here is a link to a site for peugeot parts diagrams (handy to use in general) its for a 406 but the same engine.
Its showing 4 02 sensors in this diagram
catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot/?lang=en&fbclid=IwAR0_lP0MLePfEgd5X0V7Q78jm_9e9WehaUjVHCPRXgmfj1jIhwehoj9aZQk#c3Q9PTgwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiNDA2IChyZXN0eWxpbmcpIiwiNDAiOiJCb2R5OiA0IERPT1IgU0FMT09OIFwvIEVuZ2luZTogMy4waSBWNiAyNHYgMjEwIChFUzlKNFMpIiwiNTAiOiJtZWNoYW5pY2FsIiwiNzAiOiJlbWlzc2lvbiBjb250cm9sIiwiODAiOiJSRUdVTEFUT1IgQk9YIEVYSCBURU1QIFBST0JFIn18fGNvZGU9PTFQRDl8fGJvZHk9PUIwREE0fHxlbmdpbmU9PUIwRjNMfHxjYXRfaWQ9PUZDVDAwMDF8fHN1YkdycF9pZD09RkNUMDAxMnx8cmVmZG9jcz09RDlHMTE2SjQ3QXx8cmVmZG9jPT1EOUcxMTZKNDdBfHxzdWJHcnBOYW1lPT1SRUdVTEFUT1IgQk9YIEVYSCBURU1QIFBST0JFfHxzdXBwbGllcj09
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thank you very much!
Very, very nice post indeed. It is so common the V6 is leaking the oil, so everybody to understand what has to be done to stop leaking is of a great thank you... Just one remark: See 7:27... The crankcase ventilation tube. Be enourmously aware of breaking the tube. It is so easy to break it. Be really carefull.
Hi,
Thanks for your comment.
The crankcase ventillation tubes did fall to pieces on me, if you continue on to about 15:36 i deal with that. Its best to remove this part entirely and replace those brittle hoses with new silicone ones.
Great video my front gasket is leaking onto my spark plugs on my 2002 renault avantime v6, this video is going to help me ,thanks again 😀
Great to hear you got it sorted, how did you find accessing it on the avantime?
Hi I have peugeot 607 with the same engine thanks to you I was able to preform this operation but I still have leaks. I will do it again. Keep up the videos. I have also 106 and 307 your videos were very helpful. Best regards from Bulgaria.
Thanks for the comment, glad to hear you are finding the videos useful.
607 really suits this engine they handle a bit sharper than the C5 i find, does yours have the adaptive dampers?
The rocker gaskets, they can take a few attempts to get right. The problem is them two plastic ones, i think the plastic warps. It may be why servicebox lists new covers with new gaskets but not the gaskets on their own. At the time i had this C5 i considered making new rocker covers from aluminium to replace the plastic ones. They might last a bit longer.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Yes mine is with the adaptive dampers, and manual transmission but I have problem with the front left one it's leaking oil and l am not able to find replacement, the only ones available new are standard and I am thinking to change both front ones with normal dampers, but there is another option that I have that is rebuilding them but I am not sure if it will work. You can give me your opinion on the topic. When you have Peugeot that is this old you have many problems to fix but dispide that I like the brand. My 307 drove me around for 10 years with almost no mechanical issues and now my BSI is gone crazy and the car doesn't start, but that is another topic.
About the covers, I have seen older v6 engines ( 406 coupe) and they don't have plastic ones. Are the engine covers compatible with one another.
Best regards,
@@salimustafov5924
I very briefly owned a V6 automatic 607, by very briefly i used my card to pay for one a mate had bought at auction, it was nice to drive, although i never noticed the adaptive dampers have a huge change. I dont know if you can get rebuild items for them adaptive dampers, perhaps they are the same part as some 407s used. Personally i would just change the suspension to the regular dampers they work sufficenly well.
The 307 bsi, it can be a corroded earth or perhaps damp on one of the connectors on the footwell, it can case plenty of odd electrical issues on these cars, even a low battery. A peugeot planet tool is very useful with the cars you own.
There are two versions of the ES9 V6 the early ones have 190hp the later 210hp cars have the variable valve timing and a few other bits, the covers are not a direct swap if i recall correctly. I had the C5 and Xantia V6 both at the same time and remember looking at both engine to compare the two.
Very good video mate, thanks for taking the time to record and edit it, Did a great job :)
Thank you for the comment, glad it has helped.
Nice video and thanks for that. I recommend to use torque wrench always and most important it's with spark plugs. Usually torque is about 24-25Nm.
Hi thanks for the comment.
For torques that low i generally prefer to use my own sense of feel, just dont trust torque wrenches down to those smaller numbers, i dont think my 3/8 one will go down to 25Nm the 1/4" drive wrench will but there is no 1/4 drive socket big enough for spark plugs.
Stuff like head bolts, big end caps, flywheel bolts etc i see the point of the torque wrench. However for spark plugs i generally just cinch them up by hand and never had an issue to date.
Although obviously if its a first time for working round cars and one has not yet developed the sense of knowing how tight to go then its probably best to seek out a torque wrench that can reach that range and follow the correct specs.
Elaborate but doable job and I have to do the same since shops i asked didn't want or could do it. And I didn't think of the vacuum lines. Shame that P or C don't stock gaskets! Good helpful video, thanks!
Breather system part explained well why I have rubber hoses changed to breather system by previous owner. Last original one did snap while doing the repair.
Nice video!!! It helped me a lot to change the gaskets on my Renault Avantime v6
Nice to know it helps with the avantime, how is working on them, is the engine buried deep down in the bay or is it fairly accessible?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV The truth is that it is quite buried, but stretching a lot and feeling with my hands and with a mirror, I had it in about 3 hours. If you want to see, I can send you a video of how the covers are buried in the Avantime.
VERY nice video, and informative too. I have a 3.0/V6 too and using a 200°C sealant (ie. loctite 5980) wasn't good for me. It still kept leaking :-( Loctite adviced me to use 5990. Also, always use at a torque wrench. My SEDRE manual says 8 Nm (and not 10Nm) for the top/lid bolts and and even with that mounting torque my thread in the cylinder head was broken. Following i had to remove the cylinder head covers (which is a completely another story) 3 days spent.
Hi Lars
Thanks for the comment.
Strange the differences in figures for the torque figure, I am using a SEDRE manual off eBay I need to double check but I thought it was 0.1da.Nm. Still, you need to be careful as they seem to be going into soft aluminium, the usual precautions should be taken threads should be cleaned out fully, no liquids in there etc.
I found out what the problem was on mine, (i did the second cover another 2 times after this video) the mating surface on the engine and the outer edge of the cover do not run parallel with each other. I put marker down on the mating surface then pressed on an A3 page which gave me an outline of the mating surface with bolt holes, then cut out the paper with a scalpel (Exacto knife) brought this over to the rocker cover and drew around that, then I knew what path to take with the sealant. It was quite a bit different in some areas and should avoid certain areas having less sealant in contact with the 2 parts.
Temperature is also an important consideration, loctite advises a nice warm environment for the sealant to cure, otherwise more time if the garage is cooler. I do not have any decent heaters in my shed so I chose to wait to let the sealant cure if you have emailed them I'm guessing they may have discussed the cure time and temperature as well?
I haven't actually been daily driving this car yet but running it in the yard it seems to have sealed.
I hope that helps if you want to send me a PM through youtube and I can discuss this further via email I more pictures of how I resolved this issue.
Thank you very much for the video, it helped me a lot.
A hug of a Brazilian!
Thanks glad to hear it helped
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Good job.... I want to know when fabricating the plastic covers with aluminum if it has to be the same shape as the plastic or it can be done just as the shape of the original aluminum covers.... Thanks....
The map sensor is easy to remove if you first loosen the manifold and remove the manifold to the right. Now the manifold is free and easy access to the map sensor You can also let the tube that is connected hidden underneath the manifold be in place until the manifold is free.
Useful advice there, thanks
Good video! I used the "Right Stuff" (Permatex) gasket / sealant for the plastic rocker cover. Still some other leaks to take care of.
I contacted a number of different Citroen specialists who recommended the Loctite stuff, although id say other products do the same job just as well.
Do you have any links to the stuff you used?
The plastic covers are hard to seal if the old gasket is removed because of the channel they have for the gasket to sit inside. The aluminium covers are easy to seal. That is why i am considering making up replacement aluminium covers to get rid of the two plastic ones.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Sounds really interesting to make custom aluminum covers! Also expensive I think.
I still have some leaks so I have to go on with the rest of the covers..
Here is the Permatex "Right Stuff":
www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/the-right-stuff-gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us
PDF: 441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/25223.pdf
@@sauliaalto2835
I work as a design engineer so had considered modelling up the covers in solidworks and making them from aluminium.
Although where i work we mainly make stuff from steel it wouldnt be too hard to send off the CNC files to a place with a laser cutter and have someone good on a TIG welder put all together. Should have still cost less than buying two plastic covers new from the dealer.
Favor comentar que producto se utilizó para sellar tapas metálicas y que tiempo de secado se le dio para evitar fugas nuevamente. Espero tus comentarios. Gracias.
I should have watched this before changing ignition coil at rear bank. I was fighting one hour behind the manifold to open the bolts of the brackets. Yes I realized after removing the manifold that you could just slide it right and I felt like an idiot. :D
Haha, hindsight is a great thing. Did you manage to get the coil off the engine with the manifold still in place though?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No no, I was simply an idiot when changing the coil and removed the pins from the rocker cover working behind the manifold. So it was extra time removing the bolts behind the manifold before I saw how it works. Now when I got the Locktite bottle I knew more and disassembling was 5min job. :P
Nice manual, just needed to do mine, but i took a little different approach to it. Since i am experimenting so i did only front plastic cover. Instead of throwing old gasket out, i cleaned grooves with withspirit, gasket as well, put it back and then applied sealant on the top. Will see how that holds. Since grooves where gasket stays are pretty deep, i thought that filling with sealant is too challenging, might leave air gaps.
Its worth trying, i initially tried putting the sealant on the old gaskets but i think the oil on the gaskets may not have helped the adhesion process. Ideally i think the covers would need to be remade out of aluminium.
Did this work out for you?
@@paziipa yep, the key is degreasing old gaskets, before aplying new sealant on top
@@andrewjs2989 Thank you! I will try this out.
I already tried just sealant, but didn't seal, presumably because most of it goes into the sealant groove, and don't want to apply too much, because don't want it to get it inside the system..
Then I tried just cleaning, but the gasket must have become too slim, or too hard by itself to make good seal
Always happy to hear any new ideas as this is really killing me :D
One other question please, with the vacuum hoses mine too were brittle and broken. When you made up new ones how did you connect the ends? Do you have a picture please
14:42 onwards in the video, the type of hoses used are mentioned and also i show some pictures admittedly not enough of the ends being changed
The ends are easy to remove, a stanley knife is just run along the pipe where the connector is to split the pipe then pull off the connector. I dont have many more pictures but its as simple as that.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Hi! What size are the silicone vacuum hoses? Do you have a link to the material?
@@sauliaalto2835 14:35 has the sizes all there, i do not have any links unfortunatley as the specific listings have probably been updated dozens of times since they were up. However if you search for silicone vacuum hose and find the diameters listed (or as close as possible) that should sort out that issue.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Oops, sorry I noticed that now. Have get it fixed soon.
@@sauliaalto2835 Haha no worries you made me double check the video, but i put those dimensions in because id probably have forgot myself otherwise. Best of luck with the repair.
Good video!
The guy who had the Citroën C5 before me did this job but still leaking. Have to redo that.
What I noticed is some of the bolt were missing threads :(
Be very gentle with the tools.
I had to repair them with "helicol" M6 x 1 to fix that.
Sauli Aalto
Hi
The threads are very light, even torquing to the spec in the service manual feels too much.
I still have a leak in one of the front plastic covers and i plan to remove the two plastic ones draw them up on solidworks and get aluminium ones made to replace them
I will be great if u post a timing belt service on these great engine!
Marco Antonio Toss
Yes im actually in the process of doing this job and videoing it
Great! Thx for all support. I'm owner of Peugeot 407 v6 with ES9A Engine. Cheers from Brazil.
Excellent video...thanks...do you offer a service to replace the spark plugs on a C6 petrol near London?
Hi there, thanks for the comment
Unfortunately no my day job at the moment leaves me with little time to do any mechanical work in the evening and i am also in northern Ireland
There is several Citroen specialists in England you may need to ask on the owners clubs/Facebook groups but i know there is chevronics and another chap near burnley. Probably a handful of others, a Renault or peugeot specialist may also be able to help as this same engine was used in them.
Wow though a petrol C6, i would love a C6 but put off by the reliability of an aging diesel one, if i was to buy one it would definitely be the petrol. Are they ULEZ exempt?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hey..thanks for the reply. Yes, it is ULEZ exempt being a petrol. It is for sale on AT at the moment...the only petrol C6 for sale in the UK as far as I know. Price is set to make sure the new buyer does not abuse it, as it belongs in a museum as we won't see the like again 😞
@@dkkatwa
Where is it listed for sale? I ended giving up on finding a petrol C6 and bought an XJR instead
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hi. it is for sale on Autotrader UK. Reg is GK59YVT
cheers.
Are these called Valve cover gasket left and right ?
Hi there, rocker cover gaskets is what i was calling them. There are 4 in total, two on the rear bank two on the front. Not sure about the left and right references as the engine is mounted transversely.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for help . Where I can find them. Can you give me the name of parts store.
Thanks for this explanation, great job. Please, I have a Peugeot 407, V6 engine, 2004 limousine. I cannot find the gasoline filter. Can you help me? I looked under the entire car and did not find it.
Would it be a big job to fit a 3.0 L v6 into a 206
Hi there,
I believe it has been done, google shows a few examples. Ive seen forum threads where the V6 got planted into a C2 and also a 205 anything is possible. The 206 has slightly more room, although i would not be keen on changing a cambelt in a 206 V6 haha, it was bad enough in the avantime.
It's just going to take time and money, and a fair bit of homework by reading through forums to see how it's done.
Good job sharing
Thanks for the comment
hey, thanks for the video! Have followed it and its really helped. I am in the process of re-sealing the rear valve cover (middle) but it wont sit flat against the head. Looks like there is a small fingernail gap. I cleaned the sealant and reapplied much less with the same problem, all bolts go in except the two long ones on the back left of the engine.
Any advice here?
specifically (7) and (2)
Hi there,
Glad to hear it helped.
These valve covers are a pain, especially the plastic ones never really got it to seal 100% on the C5 i was very tempted to have aluminium ones made up. Ideally you'd need to be able to get new seals but the part diagrams lists a new cover with gaskets no gaskets on their own.
So the cover your having issues reading your comment is the rear bank plastic one?
When you say it wont sit flat, if you take this cover over to a flat surface such as a table or tile will it sit flat, is the cover itself by any chance warped? When you mention the bolts 7 and 2 are those the ones that are in the diagram that appears at 11:40 in the video? Im looking back here ive annotated it that the back bolts are the longer ones. What is happening are they bottoming out on anything? Can you see any detritus or old sealant down their holes or corrosion? You might need to get a pick down into the holes to clear them out, spray a bit of wd40 down the hole and work the bolts in and out a few times to make sure they go down fully. Doing that with the cover out of the road. Compare how far they go down relative to bolts 3 and 8. Hopefully its just a bit of something down the hole preventing them from going in fully.
Chevronics might be worth asking about new valve covers, or ask them if they have any fix for the issue. I know they are partial to get the odd thing remanufactured. I was doing the avantime engine there last year and had looked into getting a pair of new plastic rocker covers, it was an engine out job on the avantime to sort a few things and i wasn't going to gamble the covers not sealing 100% but the price for them was about £200 i think. Sadly the avantime was beyond restoration mainly due to corrosion of the sills and axle mounting points so it never got looked any further. That was the last time i looked at an ES9. I dont have any cars with it at the moment.
Apart from that flaw i think they are quite a good engine, they seem to be an improvement over the old PRV engine, although then they came out at a time when everyone started to want diesels.
Anyhow i digress quite severely there, let me know how you get on, it will be good to hear how you get on.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the quick response! I have the aluminium cover and I don’t think it is warped.. hopefully not.
I spent all night trying to reseal the valve cover, with no luck. What is happening is that the bolts (7) and (2) which are the long ones drop through the valve cover and don’t reach the thread. I tried to clean inside the screw holes with a small screwdriver and looks like there is a bit of oil.
Without the cover they thread in completely fine. It’s just with the added cover and silicone they don’t want for reach the holes.
I will put the cover flat on a piece of paper to see if it is not warped, and like you said spray some brake cleaner or something down the holes.
Alternatively can i try to source longer valve cover bolts for those back ones and use them instead?
How many hours it takes to repair gasket under all four covers?
I did it in an afternoon even with the cameras being setup to record the process.
I did the operation mostly yesterday. Front head was roughly an hour and rear hour and half. Most of the time is spent cleaning parts, mechanical work is less than half an hour combined.
Hi what gasket glue you used please. Also how long do you leave it before torque it up.
Did you do the oil pan, I'm thinking of doing that as well
2:58 in the video, loctite 5890
You can leave it about an hour it might gain a slightly tacky feel then install the cover.
The sump/oil pan. No i never removed it as it was still dry, not sure if the subframe needs to come out for that.
I performed the same job resealing rockers. Front bank done yesterday, back bank 5 hours ago. Went for a short drive and went up in smoke. Leakage around all gaskets. How long do you suggest it has to cure before usage? I will have to redo the job, that's no problem. But any tips on doing it right the second time? Is exessive sealant idea?
It took a few goes on the C5.
The most important thing to do is clean the mating surfaces and use an A3 page to rub out (make an impression of the mating surface) using your finger on the back side of the page. Transfer that over to the rocker covers. You will see that the mating surface does not run perfectly offset with the outer edge of each cover. If you can use the page to trace the mating surface outline onto the inner edge of the cover then apply sealant between the lines that will ensure it works better.
The plastic covers are just a nightmare, i am not a big fan of them at all, especially given that they must be bought new to get new gaskets. However if you pile in with the sealant and let it half cure out in the air for an hour before offering it to the engine it can improve its chances of sealing.
Another tip is to ensure the mating surfaces are pefectly clean and dry to give the sealant the best chance. Give it a few hours, preferably leave it overnight to cure when the covers have been put back on and the bolts tightened.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks alot! Will retry in a day orso.
Redid the whole job. Made sure to apply an even thicker layer on the covers. Along with that I sealed the outside crevice aswell. 10 mins into idle and so far only old oil's burning up :)
@@roman0811 Happy days, all still holding up now?
What are the torgue settings for tightening back up?
I cant remember, emanuals online had the full dealer level workshop manual which i used. From memory the torque figure given was much higher than it felt safe to tighten those small bolts up to, emailing citroen specialists at the time they recommended just tightening the bolts by hand with common sense as the official torque figure was inclined to strip the threads.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you , ive also managed to find the manuals - seems the figure is 10nm
HI, what are the right spark plugs (NUMBER) for this engine, thanks
To be honest i dont know
I just buy from my local motor factors they order the parts using the cars registration number as will the likes of websites such as autodoc or euro car parts. I do know that NGK plugs were fitted but i do not recall the specific part number
After all these years, you're still getting questions. :) Great job!
Did you reuse the old gaskets and add the gasket maker as dressing, or did you remove the old gaskets completely, and do all the sealing with the gasket maker? I wasn't able to catch that with enough certainty.
Thanks for sharing!
Its good to see there are still people keeping these engines still running.
No i did not reuse the old gasket, the gasket maker did it all. Took a few goes. I am still not a big fan of the 2 plastic covers, always considered having them manufactured out of aluminium as i think the plastic might warp with age slightly. Although the track it has for the original rubber seal doesnt quite suit the sealant too well wheras the aluminium covers the sealant works quite well on.
A tip about the aluminium covers, push an a3 page over the mating surface on the head where the covers will sit down. Then transfer the pattern onto the underside of the covers. You will see that the mating surface does not exactly follow the outline of those covers, its better to use a line drawn from the paper template to guide where to put the sealant.
Ive actually got an avantime V6 in at the moment to get the work all done on it, although with the avantime the engine has to come out to get the cambelt out but it will perhaps make better video content on this subject.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV As a matter of fact, mine was by chance. :) I was looking for a post-facelift C5 with H3+ for my wife and our family trips (which, my Alfa 156 is not suited for) and this was the only one in Turkey. I find the engine quite good though, even economical for a 2000s 1.5 ton car. I have a soft spot for what others would call "quirky cars", also running a Xantia X1 VSX as my daily driver, which, as of yesterday, I think has a seized engine. :D
As you explained, the leaks from the metal covers were easy to fix. And replacing with custom-made metal ones is the permanent solution. If I can manage to make the car hold for until end of summer, I might be able to keep the car in storage long enough for me to have them made, while driving the other two. Otherwise, I'll have to buy the covers as wife will need the car running.
Avantime is very interesting. One of the cars I want to own at least for some time, but it's far beyond my financials in Turkey. Even a simple headlight replacement would cost a lot, as one would have to import the part, and it's not easy to obtain used parts.
Thanks for taking the time to answer! I'll also share my experience if I'm successful. Going to try using Permatex Ultra Black for the job. Wish me luck. :)
@@emirhandongel The best of luck with the repair, i look forward to hearing how it goes
Nice guide, get yourself a torqe wrench a must have for anyone even a cheap silverline/laser one etc
HaveAgo Harry
Thanks
I have one, but need to get one for that low range down between 0-40Nm
peugeotCitroen2CV I can recommend the draper low range. I think mine does 10-80 or maybe 90nm. 3/8 drive so is perfect for cam covers etc
Funny i just checked there this evening i did have a 1/4" torque wrench for 5-25Nm, need to set it out for this sort of job.
As a note ...not mentioned in this great video...on the EGR pipes you will need to buy a spring/s to line the inside of the new silicone pipes so that they don't collapse when subjected to the inlet manifold pressure ...this will be on the pipes after the little manifold to the throttle assembly...The original pipes were corrugated and rigid but these new silicones pipes collapse when under vacuum and also get even softer when hot....Make these springs just small enough to go inside the pipes and so line the interior of them. They won't get sucked past the ends as they should be too big for the ends and the inlet joiner....cheers
Excelente
Leider kann es bei den Ventildeckel aus Kunststoff zu Problemen beim abdichten kommen. Wenn die verzogen sind, aus welchen Gründen auch immer, bekommt man die kaum noch abgedichtet. Diese Ventildeckel kann man leider nicht mehr kaufen, jedenfalls in Deutschland. Welches Dichtmittel haben Sie zum abdichten genommen?
Great, same engine that have my 4'06
Thank You
After reading comment section you made me think to make outter metal plate (thick) that would follow the shape of the part and to use the longer bolts. Maybe that would press the cover evenly. From what I read I got a feeling the leak will continue to happen.
I think ideally the plastic covers would need to be replaced with CNC cut aluminium replacements.
amazing work :) congrats.... I replace the two rocker covers for new ones because I had the same problem with the gasket :( and I have to make the same but with the others covers.... its good idea use that sealant?
You purchased new plastic covers? Do they include the gasket with them?
Using the sealant is generally the only opiton, it works fine on the aluminium covers but not perfectly on the plastic ones.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes they include the gasket, but now I have to change the others covers..the metal covers... and I don't have the gasket for them and I'm relaxed now with your answer :) muchas gracias :)
@@PabloGHerreraBravo Ah i see, i always suspected that from the servicebox diagrams that the plastic ones came with the gasket thanks for confirming that. If it is not too rude a question how much did the pair of plastic covers cost?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV here in Ecuador $150 USD each. :(
hi, I hope you can help me with a little problem that I have. I want to use a product to clean the catalytic system, its mannol catalytic system cleaner 9201. I saw some videos to use it, and I have to connect to a vacuum pipe? and I don't know where is it. I think I have to connect after the acceleration body right?
Thanks for this detailed job... Just wanted to know when fabricating the plastic covers in Aluminum should it be identical or I can use the shape of the original aluminum covers. Thanks....
I would say make the aluminium covers follow the same shape as the gasket does on the plastic ones. No the original aluminium covers are differently shaped from memory, and it is safer to assume that the two plastic covers have a different shape also, certainly one has the connections for the PCV system
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks much....
@@alexackah6767
It will be great to see someone do this, i was very close to doing it but then got a 406 V6 to replace this C5 and surprisingly it did not leak
@@peugeotCitroen2CV will Contact a machine shop and see if they can and will keep you updated and once again thanks for such an on point video....
you have the rear holding screw behind the intake forgotten
Woops, cant even remember forgetting that one. Is it holding the sensor in place?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV the back screw (with 10mm nut) stabilized the intake .it's near the back sensor.😉
11:13 did you wait for this sealant to solidify? Or is it just still in liquid form while putting it on place?
I tried it a few times, i found the best thing to do was to let it sit for about an hour first, it had not fully cured but had a bit of shape then put the cover on.
To be honest them plastic rocker covers are hard to seal, ideally if some aluminium ones were made to replace them it would be far better, i think the plastic simply warps and there is no great way of getting it to seal. It is why peugeot & citroen dont list the gaskets on their own only new covers and gaskets together.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hmm yes that is what I thought that it would be the best to let it solidify for some time so it will have better sealing effect. I own Peugeot 406 coupe with older V6 3.0 and it have aluminium cover.
@@Cosm1c_69
The older engine in some ways might be the better one to have, no variable valve gubbins to give trouble and 4 aluminium rocker covers. The only thing i remember about a Xantia V6 i had with that engine was that it was hard to find a replacement coil pack for the back bank. A great engine when combined with a manual box.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I also heard that new versions have this variable valve and that it cause problems. I noticed that new version have weird rocker cover and I suspected that they may be some kind of plastic. Now I know for sure. Also plastic air intake manifold. It seem they searched way to make this fat engine more slim :D
Yes my version have 1 coil and then it is connected with rest 3 spark plugs by a high voltage cords. But at least in my country they are not that hard to find. But there is some brands made very cheap. I have one of those not to good ones. My high voltage wires they are from company called bougicord. I have weird problem that I think may be result of poor quality of those wires.
In very dark spot when I look at them they seem to have internal glow. It is like seeing blue laser moving fast in them seen from time to time. When I touch them I see micro sparks hitting my fingers. It is not hurting at all. But as for my average knowledge I doubt that it is good thing to see any glow in high voltage wires. I think that this is creating problem that I experiencing from long time. When I accelerate on 2nd gear at around 2000-2900rpm I heel inconsistent acceleration. It is like mild hesitations. On 1st gear it is barelly noticeable but I believe I can feel similar behaviour on this low gear. On other gears I dont feel this at all.
Another thing is that about year ago when I changed spark plugs and coil and those wires I noticed that old ones were also Bougicord and yes they glow in the dark so I decided to change them too. But upon change I noticed engine oil in spark plug bays on far side of those 3 cylinders where those wires are plugged in. So that is why I am interested in making new seal for them. Also if oil is getting into those spark plug bays then it also may be causing this problem that I described.
When I rew my engine up at around 2K and above to about 3k I feel my whole car is shaking little to much. Not like working on 5 cylinders but I definately can feel it is not smooth as near 1K rpm and above 3k RPM so there is something wrong with my engine :(
@@Cosm1c_69
There was talk on wikipedia that porsche was consulted for the retuning of this engine when the newer version came out, not sure how true the porsche connection is as its hard to find other information about that. This page is a good source www.citroenet.org.uk/passenger-cars/psa/c5/c5tech2.html
However with regards the spark, you should not see a blue spark, thats the wires shorting which will cause your running issues new leads would be needed, and oil should not be in the spark plug wells as that will also lead to a misfire.
Great job !! Do you remember the diameter of the crankcase breather hose ? I need to reseal all 4 rocker covers on my ES9J4 as the last 'reseal' only lasted 30.000 kms !! This is a design bug of this engine, as the oil can get into the timing belt area !!
Hi, thanks for the comment
I couldnt remember those diamaters at all haha. Although i see ive put them into the video at 14:35 as i must have known id forget it. They are 10mm id x 16mm od and 16mm id x 22mm od.
I found the metal covers seemed to seal ok, but the plastic ones would not. The older ES9 engine had 4 aluminium covers that were less prone to this issue. Im not entirely sure if oil will get into the timing belt area as its fairly sealed off in itself, oil in there might be coming from the cam or crankshaft seals.
I think the best way to solve the oil leak issue would be to have the plastic covers replaced with aluminium ones. I was going to do it on this C5 but sold this car on, the V6 is nice although the automatics used with them dulled the performance too much.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I had worst leak on rear aluminium cover, then front alu and front plastic and rear plastic one was basically dry. (this is 305 000 km driven car) I don't know if plastic ones were changed in some time in history but at least I did not find anything mentioned in service history as mostly every bigger receipt has been saved in my C5.
peugeotCtroen2CV @0:24 what causes spark plugs to be soaked in oil and what would sealing/gasket should i be replacing on this engine 🤔?
I'd really appreciate your help and reply man.
Keep watching the video all your questions are answered in it.
The rocker covers leak and he oil fills the spark plug wells, the name of the sealant used is referenced to in the video.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks man.
I appreciate your reply.. i think i got a bit lazy and asked the question prematurely instead of watching the whole video.
Thanks again 🙏😁
is the torque setting the same for all the metal covers, 10nm?
I'm half way through stumbling through the process of resealing the valve covers on my V6 406 and it looks like last time it was done they did the upper AND lower covers... Any tricks you know of to removing the lower valve covers to reseal them?
When you say the lower valve covers do you mean the ladders that hold the camshafts?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes... "Ladders"
The same sealant was around the valve covers as is around where the ladders meet the head so I figured they both could do with resealing
@@bradFNrobinson
They are a bit more work than the rocker covers, you basically need to remove the cambelt covers, lock the engine and then remove these ladders to reseal them.
I have the engine of an Avantime apart at the moment, down to this stage. Its the same ES9 engine.
Send me a message on Facebook if you want any pictures of the engine disassembled down to that stage
facebook.com/PC2CV
Thanks for that! Will do!
The car is at my eco lodge in the forest which I will be going back to next week so I would really appreciate some advise so I can finish getting the job done myself.
Chur
Why my engine missfire, done replace new spark plug, ignition coil, crankcase breathing pipe. But still sometime miss fire. Any suggestions?
Did you replace one or all of the ignition coils? Any engine management lights or fault codes present?
There are still other sensors and components that could cause a misfire, fuel injectors are the first thing i think of.
My 407 V6 has lots of oil leaks, engine about 220000km, is it worth fixing?
That converts to roughly 136,000 miles which isnt really a huge amount, i sold a 406 V6 with the same.
Having said that big petrols at least over here in Northern Ireland do not command a huge price, i made double the value for a 2.2 Diesel 406 than a 3.0 V6 406 with the same miles and spec. However it depends on the condition of your 407, are V6s generally worth much, does the car have any sentimental or intangible value to yourself? If its just the rocker covers leaking then they can be sorted fairly handily, generally thats the main leak area from these V6 engines. Cambelt replacement is the most expensive item, its a job that can be done yourself i have a video but the belt kit is over £250 from most reputable sources.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the prompt response. I really like the car however here in Australia you virtually can't give them away. It's had the water pump and timing belt done probably 70000km ago by previous owner. I can't do the oil leaks myself but mechanic has quoted over $1000
@@joeprogrock
Generally the 3.0 V6 engine is a fairly reliable engine, much much better than the old PRV V6 that it replaced and a lot more characterful than the 1.6 Prince engine that has essentially replaced it.
Ideally these V6s require a willingness to do DIY maintenance otherwise the repair bills can get high. It depends on what is causing the oil leaks but its very common on these engines for the rocker covers to leak, definitely not a £1000 job. If i can politely recommend investing in a decent socket set its something that can be done DIY.
Hallo 😊 i like your videos on the C5 mk1 Can you make a video on replacing transmission Oil? i need to replace mine but need some help
Hi, its one job i never got around to doing on my C5. I have a few forum threads saved relating to changing the transmission fluid, the LT fluid for these gearboxes is quite expensive and i think it works out at about £100 the last time i checked on opie oils.
I am selling my C5 V6 and will leave changing the transmission fluid to the next owner.
Did it but my car doesn't wanna start
Are you still having issues with it not starting?
Yes I'm still have issues I put it in diagnostic it says crashf sensor I bought I new one but still no starting
@@malokojoao318 Crank sensor? What sort of diagnostic device are you using?
Although its not implausible that the wires to the crank sensor might be at fault. You might need to get a wiring diagram and test the continuity of the wires from the crank sensor back to the ECU pins responsible. Odd though this happened just after a timing belt change.
If just one leaks, should I change all 4 ?
Not necessarially, if you can be 100% sure you know exactly the cover that is leaking then just that one can be removed and resealed. Although if its one of the covers on the rear bank under the inlet manifold then its just as handy to do both while in there.
Should I keep the gasket on the 2 black plastic covers ?
I'm doing the operation right now and I'm in need of urgent information
@@GabrielSTEFAN943
I binned the old gaskets on this car, although i think part of the problem with the plastic covers is that no replacment gaskets are available. If they were it would be a handy case of just putting new gaskets in and enjoy no more leaks.
However with no replacment gaskets available i just pumped more of the sealant into the channels where the gaskets occupied, let it sit in a dry dust free cupboard for about and hour then install them onto the car.
I sort of fell out of love with these V6 engines because of this oil leak issue.
However if i was to keep one going i would have the plastic covers replaced with aluminium ones. It would require a pair of covers to be fabricated up by an engineering workshop but it would probably be the most permanent solution for these, it could cost about £300 to have that done. That might be worth it depending on how much you value the car.
Are there any OEM parts for the new rocker gasket for all 4 cover?
Hi
No, i couldn't find any and looked in a few locations. There never were gaskets for the metal covers, they used the sealant from the factory.
The plastic covers have a gasket but the only new ones i can find is by going to the dealer for new covers which come with gaskets, from what i recall its over £100 for the covers and they could be over 10 years old sitting on a shelf.
I considered using the covers off the older V6 which had 4 aluminium covers, but there is a different hole pattern.
What im planning on doing is measuring up the plastic covers, and trying to get them reproduced in aluminium, then they can be installed with the same sealant as the plastic covers. I think the plastic just distorts with age and it would be better to replace it with an aluminium part.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV so the older model of the engine (ES9J4 XFZ 2.9 V6 24V 140kW) doesnt have any rubber gaskets? its just factory sealant on all four covers?
@@zolja95 Hi that is correct, i had a Xantia V6 with the older engine and it was just a case of applying new sealant to the covers.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV i need help. im using a v6 607 with a bad gasket. the oil is keaking so bad i can smell from inside. im unable to get the gasket for months... i removed the gasket already and its so hardened up it broken...
after watching the video, wow your heaven sent. Thanks for the clarity
@@shidaanii-noi9454
Hi, glad to hear this has helped you.
The plastic rocker covers are a terrible feature of these engines, it took a few times to finally get them to seal properly. Ideally the solution would be to have a replacement set of aluminium rocker covers to replace the plastic ones made up.
Hi, I have just had this done on my Peugeot 406 3.0 v6 coupe, when the car started up it made a strange noise so it was turned off immediately and now it cranks but won't start! Any ideas on what the problem might be? Thanks!
Anything dropped into the rocker area when the covers were removed? Coils all reconnected?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No everything was covered, and yeah all reconnected but it turns out the timing jumped and I'm unsure if the valves have been damaged!
@@tattooreptiles If you time all back up and tighten the belt will the engine still turn over by hand?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV It still turns over by hand, but cant get the belts completely tight as the tensioner has failed so it needs replacing! Do you thing it would be worth replacing it, timing everything up and trying to start the car?
@@tattooreptiles
Worth giving the car a chance. There is a way to pressure test each cylinder to see if the valves are holding pressure but it may require a bit of a yarn with someone with a bit more expertise, perhaps try the owners club.
Do you know the order of firing coils if you stand in front of the hood, number from inner coils to the outer coild near radiator, my OBD says bad coil B but is that nr 2 and where is nr 2 ? is it 1 2 3 from left inner to 4 5 6 from right outer ?
Hi there
I am not too sure of the firing order but do you mean the numbering convention for the V6 engine?
This might help
www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/xantia-v6-png.138567/
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You are right i mean the number convention, OBD said B but no coil number and picture tell that B is the rear so it can be on of 4 5 or 6 then i will se if i get the fault back, i did a reset, the faulty is gone now but it happend when the engine was very warm one hot day, and disapeard after cooling (engine off for a while)
bravo
Thanks for the comment
Hi, would you know if this engine (V6 3 litre petrol) has an EGR valve since my car seems to idle up and down and loose power especially once it warms up. Thanks
I never remember the Xantia, 406 or C5 V6s ive had in the past having an EGR valve. Although i did not go looking for it, i dont think they were fitted the emissions were low enough at the time and these engines used up to 4 catalytic converters.
Now in the video here i did sort the cracked vacuum lines, it may be worth looking at them. In your instance when the car looses power does it misfire or throw up an engine management light?
My 2008 peugeot 407 is leaking but only when driven any body knows the cause?. Thanks....
This is when these rocker covers predominantly leak, when the engine is running. Especially noticeable as the oil will drip down on to the exhaust and create quite an unpleasent burning smell. Reseal the rocker covers as shown here which should cure the oil leak.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV That's exactly what's happening but then I don't see any oil around the plugs since I cleaned....
It leaked into the alternator and damaged it, just got it fixed and don't want that happened again....
@@alexackah6767 The spark plugs will not always leak
You have 4 covers, the aluminium ones generally seal well but the plastic ones are a nuisance to seal. PSA actually only sell the plastic covers with new gaskets not new gaskets separately. Have a look through these comments, there are a few discussing the possibility of remanufacturing the plastic covers from aluminium. I would have done this myself but i sold my last V6 a few years ago. I think the plastic covers warp or deform in some way which causes them to leak.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV just trying to understand... If the cover gasket are on top but then leaks it at the bottom where the exhaust pipe is?...
Thanks for bearing with me...
Has anyone been able to fix leaking on a variable valve timing solenoid? Mine is pouring constantly. I tried many custom gaskets, o-rings, joint makers, etc. but I can't make it stop leaking.
Is it the solenoid or is it the cam carrier? Down below the rocker cover the aluminium ‘ladder’ that holds down the camshafts apparently can leak
Not too sure about the solenoid, although i think the channel citroman may have covered this aspect of these engines
Good day to one and all....
Can anyone tell me the sensor just beside the dipstick on Peugeot 407 3.0 v6....
Thanks much....
The green plug is one of the 02 sensors.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I think I have found out what it is.... It's the power steering pressure switch.... Thanks again....
By the way I saw the four covers on Aliespress for $200.00 but I don't know how good those will be....
Its really only the plastic ones that give the problems. The existing aluminium ones generally seal and are ready to go.
Any links to the Alibaba listing?
If i still had a car with an ES9 i would have probably looked more into this
@@peugeotCitroen2CV EC$ 540.00 | LittleMoon New Genuine Petrol Engine Cylinder Valve Cover Gasket for Peugeot 407 607 407cc Citroen C6 C5 3.0 0248H8 0248J0
a.aliexpress.com/_mqN9goh....
@@alexackah6767 That link does not work
These operations carried out at my Citroen C8 V6.
The front valve cover repair is successful, only the rear cylinder head cover is not. Only this will only occur if the engine is warm. anyone here experience with how to solve it? We have again placed him two times and he continues to leak when the engine is warm.
Hi
Citroen C8 V6, very nice! It only was available with 4 cylinders here.
I’m confused by how you are referring to the covers, there are 4 on this engine, two on the front bank and two on the rear bank
If you are at the front of the car and the cover closest to you is number 1 and the cover closest to the windscreen is number 4 what cover is causing issues?
I found i had to reseal mine a few times to get a good seal and can tell you why i think it is the case.
On the metal covers especially if you run the bead of sealant around the edge of the cover.
The problem with just going around the edge of the cover is that the mating surface of the engine doesn’t always follow the same path as the edge of the cover does.
Feel around the covers with your finger and there are areas where the cover can overhang more. If you have the sealant around the edge of the cover like this then there are
areas where the sealant will be thinner when it seals against the engine. I found this a particular problem on cover number 2 around the oil cap.
The solution i found was to remove the cover and clean all up again, both the cover and mating surface on the engine block. Then on the engine mating surface either get old oil or black marker and get a layer of old oil or marker ink
on the mating surface, then press an A3 sheet down over the mating surface, you will create a template of the mating surface, be sure to get the bolt holes while doing this.
Take the sheet and cut it out accurately with a knife.
With a template of the mating surface made (and each cover would have its own different one to do) set it onto the cover, lining it up with the bolt holes on the cover, then trace around your template onto the cover.
With the shape drawn onto the cover you can see where the sealant has to go, its not quite always in parallel with the outer edge of the cover. Obviously don’t put sealant where you have marked but rather in a bit where the mating surface
will be in contact with. It seems that results in a much more substantial bead of sealant sealing the covers.
One other thing to check is the use by date on your can of sealant.
Hi Mitchell. I experience the exact same problem, ie when engine is hot oil was dripping onwards the exhaust manifold. Imagine the smell...This is my personal experience:
1) take away ALL the old silikone on the cover and the bearing cap casing. You can use a silikone-remover chem which is applied in 2-6 hours. Prior to using the chem you can a use af shaver for glass ceramic owens. They are perfect for the job. Don't scratch the metal parts. This operation should not take more that 1 hr.
2) I used a de-crease remover, ie acetone. Afterwards I grinded both areas with sand paper grain size 400 - just smothly. Wipe the surfaces off without chemistry, just a clean tissue.
3) Make all your bolts, torque wrench, tissues, etc ready for the assembling, keeping in mind that the assembling shall be made in a continous prcess without pauses.
4) Note that the cover is not plain! but the cap bearing coves is. That means that sealer has to fill out approx. 1-2 mm which is not normal when assembling two surfaces. For this reason I used a quite big amount af sealer/silikone because it has to fill out the extreme gab between the parts (I wonder why Peugeot has made it this way...) However many sealants are only suitable up to fill out spaces up to a maximum of 1 mm, according to the sealant specs. However, Peugeot recomments "Loctite 5135". It is to my knowledge only available in France. The PN is "973569" and is called E10 in the reference manual. You can purchase it at www.carparts-pros.com for around 15€/100ml. "ReinZOsil" is also a brand. Hovever I did not have succes with this brand. Bear in mind that the sealant has to be RTV-sealant with working temperature not below 200°C
5) Apply a stripe of approx 6-8 mm in thickness (better to much than too less) on the bearing cap cover in a smooth way. The reason for this is that you in this way know exactly where to apply the sealant.
6) Mount the cover at once ensuring that the cover is liftet on the bearing cap cover and NOT slided in from the side.
7) Mount the bolts and finger tight them as well.
8) Use the Torque wrench to NO MORE THAN 8 Nm (= specs). Do not over tight them as the thread might will be damaged (and you will face a far more severe problem as you will have to remove the bearing cap cover/casing as well and that is a +25 hr job fixing the thread with a Heli Coil). Start with the bolts in the middle and work your way out. First 5 Nm. Herafter 8 Nm.
9) Wait at least 2 days for the sealant to cure. Remember the thickness of the sealant. High humidity willl decrease curing time
10) You now have a car that doesn't leak. Complete working hrs is less than 3.
Regards
/Lars
hello what is the number or code of the spark plug? best regards.
Hi unfortunatley i didnt keep any note of the plugs. My local motor factors had them in stock, i think they were bosch ones.
Check ZBP-KJ0 for plastic)
Thats very interesting to see that some company is actually making rocker cover gaskets for this engine.
Googing ZBP-KJ0 brought up this interesting article
www.drive2.com/l/606368844042224560/
I just cant seem to find a link for somewhere selling the gasket.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV already get set of these gaskets, try to install it in nearest time
@@nightpavell
Where did you purchase them from?
@@nightpavell Do you have a link for where you bought the gaskets from?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hmm, its strange, cause I already replied to you with links (maybe TH-cam deleted my messages?)
Do you have telegram or ig?
Hány valamit törtél el? Veréb!
The vacuum lines broke due to the plastic going brittle, very common issue this video covers that fix. The rest of the work nothing else was broke. Why do you ask?
👍
throw the engine and the whole fucking car in the shitheap. for Fuck's sake. edit: This video is brilliantly filmed and annotated.