Hey, thank you so much for doing this video. It was the best one I found. 👍 Throw this out there while it's fresh in case someone else needs the info: (2000 Jimmy 4WD) I bought the $20 fan removal tool, I feel it was worth it. It's the 36mm side. I was unable to get access to the bottom bracket and the pressure line on the PS pump. It's pretty easy to get at if you pull the whole bracket. 1. Pull both the throttle brackets off. 10mm and detach the throttle cable from throttle body. 2. Pull the AC compressor off. 2 plugs, one front one rear. 4 bolts 13mm. Lay it to the left gently. 3. Take out the 3 PS pump front bolts 15mm? 4. Take out the 3 bracket bolts and one nut 9/16ths 5. Pull the bracket out. Then there's plenty of room to get to the two retaining bolts on the back of the pump. The pressure line on mine had a bendy bit, so I was able to undo the pump to get access to the line on the back. 5/8ths flare iirc. When re-assembling, try to hold the pump kinda how it'll go onto the bracket before tightening the line all the way. I didn't and the line was in the way for putting it back one. Had to loosen it again. Also, after you get the fan out, it worked really well for me draping a coat over the radiator. Protected the radiator and me. If you use the fan tool, make sure to remove the bolt on handle before firing her up. Go slow adding the fluid. I made a mess because the fill tube trapped bubbles. I had to rev my engine to get the PS to engage. Good luck, it's very doable.
Thank you sir, for making this very informative video. It saved me a lot of time following step by step instead of having to look up everything. A video is worth more than a thousand words. I have a 91 GMC K1500, but the pump is exactly the same. I'm a heavy truck mechanic by trade. Your video helps many people save money by resealing a good pump that's just leaking and not having to buy a new one.
Thanx. A milllion thanx. Haven't done power steering lines before. You've made my upcoming chore infinitely less confusing and looks like it will go much easier.
Most excellent video sir. Thank you for taking the time to make it. I especially liked your fan removal trick, because as anyone whos ever worked on a vehicle with one of those fan clutches will testify, it can be a royal pain in the backside! Cheers!
Impressive work, only thing I could say is always good to scotch bright a bit where the seals ride, on the housing and the shaft. And the pump paddle contact areas. Help glide on the oil molecules
05:00 Get a fan clutch wrench or a knuckle buster large enough to go on the nut. Use that. Don’t hammer the nut directly. You’re going to damage it. If the pulley still turns, then take a ratchet to the belt tensioner and add MORE tension, then keep on hitting it. It will break free.
@Rhett Krecic there is absolutely nothing wrong with how he took the fan Clutch loose. I have been a mechanic and working on cars for almost 30yrs. This is how i was taught how to remove on from the man who taught me just about everything i know whonwas a mechanic for over 60 years. Usually it only take 2 hit to break it loose and spin it right off. With no damage tonthe nut on the clutch. And unlike your thin fan clutch wrench that can and will stretch and slip more the work with a chance of rounding off the corners or the knuckle buster wrench that people use on the pulley bolts that can strip or snap the blots holding the pulley to the water pump. You also dont have to concern your self with adding tension to the belt which risks damage to the tensioner. Not once have i damaged a fan clutch nut or a water pump doing it this way
@@ottobauner9828 did you not see the nicks he left on the nut? Adding tensioner won't damage it. Why would it? It might break or stretch a worn belt. But the tensioner won't break unless it was about to anyways. Not sure what cheap and thin fan clutch wrench you used but the one I bought worked perfectly. Two hits and it immediately loosened. Came right off. Zero nicks on the nut. I'd rather break the wrench then the nut on the clutch fan.
@@RodknockRhett ok im not sure what your looking at but he didnt put one nick in the pulley. Amd using the method he is using you touch the pulley. Or are you speaking on the fastener nut on the fan clutch that is remedied using a larger drift with a blunt end. And obviously little knowledge of how a serpentine belt tensioner is assembled and how it works if you dont understand how it can be damaged. You are exerting force on it it was not made to handle. Over stretching the external spring, stretching weaking it its made to push an eaxct amount of pressure. Also added side load pressure on both the idler and tensioner pulley. Also the other accessories are not designed to handle that kind of pressure on the pulley aiding in premature barring failure. What he did caused no damage or added stress to any of the pulleys or accessories. Also I can grab my drift and hammer and have the fan off before your set up.
Probably late to comment. Abd thank you for the helpful video. I have a 2003 Chevy S10 Pickup Truck I'm working on. And the pump didn't come with the return line filter. Is that a must in the pump? And if so, where can I get one?
@blaztplayz5524 it should still work just fine, that filter is mostly for catching metal particles if the old pump came apart, if your fluid was mostly clean before, i wouldn't stress about installing a filter. Have a great day!
Honestly I'm not sure of the technical name of it but i know it holds the pressure relief valve and spring in place, it might be called the suction line fitting
Me gustó mucho el video de reparación y cambio de retenedor,pero en mi caso tengo eses mismo tipo de bomba y tiene un ruido duro como si estuviera un rodamiento mal.que será ese ruido?
Bomba de dirección asistida desgastada A medida que los cojinetes del impulsor se estropean, comenzará a hacer ruido cuando la bomba gire. Si tiene una bomba de dirección asistida defectuosa, generalmente también experimentará fugas alrededor de la polea, una polea tambaleante o dificultad para girar el volante cuando esté parado.
I prefer to install the belt around all the pulleys in the correct order leaving the last section over the top of the idler pulley, and then swing the tensioner over and finish installing it under the idler pulley
@@theman9764 thank you sir, you helped me out a lot thank you for making this video and responding back to me. . Hope you have a great holiday season this year, god bless 🤝
I used this video to diagnose my remanufactured part I purchased. I knew it was a high pressure issue. The newly remanufactured power steering pump would really only allow me to turn the wheel when I was in motion. If not in motion it was extremely difficult to turn the wheel even with two arms. Anyways. Took pump off and I didn't know there was a high pressure check valve. Pump wasn't leaking so I opened that 1" nut up and removed the check valve. It was remanufactured loose. There were 3 washers just free so I tightened them up with an 11mm socket and put it back on the vehicle. And bam! Works like new. I was being told on a forum that it was gear box or pump was no good. Just a loose bolt. So thanks a bunch. Now I really know my way around how pumps work. You saved me about $400. 😁👌👍
Your mind isn't thinking properly. This beginning of the video was obviously taken with the FRONT FACING selfie lens which always makes objects appear reversed L-R. Take a closer look at the decals on the toolchests in the picture. His flag is A-ok.
If the truck is 4x4 with no bottom access to pump, here is a link to a document which may be of help... docs.google.com/document/d/1hzeESC1E2lswpM1Bj0rmFlW2JQLCsCNC/edit?usp=share_link&ouid=103651151372989198589&rtpof=true&sd=true
For those of you with a 4x4 S10 with no bottom access to pump, here is a link to a document which outlines the procedure for removing & installing the pump. Coupled with this excellent video, the document may be of help. Ny vehicle is a 2001 Chevy S10 4x4 ............. docs.google.com/document/d/1hzeESC1E2lswpM1Bj0rmFlW2JQLCsCNC/edit?usp=share_link&ouid=103651151372989198589&rtpof=true&sd=true
Hey, thank you so much for doing this video. It was the best one I found. 👍
Throw this out there while it's fresh in case someone else needs the info: (2000 Jimmy 4WD)
I bought the $20 fan removal tool, I feel it was worth it. It's the 36mm side.
I was unable to get access to the bottom bracket and the pressure line on the PS pump. It's pretty easy to get at if you pull the whole bracket.
1. Pull both the throttle brackets off. 10mm and detach the throttle cable from throttle body.
2. Pull the AC compressor off. 2 plugs, one front one rear. 4 bolts 13mm. Lay it to the left gently.
3. Take out the 3 PS pump front bolts 15mm?
4. Take out the 3 bracket bolts and one nut 9/16ths
5. Pull the bracket out.
Then there's plenty of room to get to the two retaining bolts on the back of the pump. The pressure line on mine had a bendy bit, so I was able to undo the pump to get access to the line on the back. 5/8ths flare iirc.
When re-assembling, try to hold the pump kinda how it'll go onto the bracket before tightening the line all the way. I didn't and the line was in the way for putting it back one. Had to loosen it again.
Also, after you get the fan out, it worked really well for me draping a coat over the radiator. Protected the radiator and me.
If you use the fan tool, make sure to remove the bolt on handle before firing her up.
Go slow adding the fluid. I made a mess because the fill tube trapped bubbles.
I had to rev my engine to get the PS to engage.
Good luck, it's very doable.
A decent vid from someone who knows what they’re talking about. Hallelujah you’re a lifesaver.
Thank you sir, for making this very informative video. It saved me a lot of time following step by step instead of having to look up everything. A video is worth more than a thousand words. I have a 91 GMC K1500, but the pump is exactly the same. I'm a heavy truck mechanic by trade. Your video helps many people save money by resealing a good pump that's just leaking and not having to buy a new one.
sick ass video. you have single handedly helped me pass my automotive class. you sir are the goat.
Thanks man! Love hearing comments like this! Good luck finishing your automotive class
Outstanding photography! Superb communication! You, sir, are awesome. Thank you for doing this amazing tutorial. God bless you and your family.
best video I've seen on the removal of the pump
)
Thanx. A milllion thanx. Haven't done power steering lines before. You've made my upcoming chore infinitely less confusing and looks like it will go much easier.
Good luck on tackling the repair! It's not to terrible if you just pay attention and take your time
Thanks for taking the time to help others
Most excellent video sir. Thank you for taking the time to make it. I especially liked your fan removal trick, because as anyone whos ever worked on a vehicle with one of those fan clutches will testify, it can be a royal pain in the backside! Cheers!
I absolutely appreciate the compliment! Thank you!
Thanks for making a video on this that anyone can understand.
Thanks for the video. It is very clear for the beginners.
Impressive work, only thing I could say is always good to scotch bright a bit where the seals ride, on the housing and the shaft. And the pump paddle contact areas. Help glide on the oil molecules
Thank you for taking the time and making this video it helped me a lot!!
Thanks for watching! Hopefully I'll have time pretty soon to make some more vids
GENIAL, EL MEJOR VIDEO QUE HE VISTO, ES LA MISMA BOMBA QUE LLEVA MI VOLVO PENTA DE MI BARCO, MUCHAS GRACIAS DESDE MALLORCA, ESPAÑA, UN ABRAZO
05:00 Get a fan clutch wrench or a knuckle buster large enough to go on the nut. Use that. Don’t hammer the nut directly. You’re going to damage it.
If the pulley still turns, then take a ratchet to the belt tensioner and add MORE tension, then keep on hitting it. It will break free.
Been doing it that way for years but i usually use an air hammer with the correct bit, never had an issue yet
@@theman9764 I was just suggesting a way without leaving marks on the nut.
@Rhett Krecic there is absolutely nothing wrong with how he took the fan Clutch loose. I have been a mechanic and working on cars for almost 30yrs. This is how i was taught how to remove on from the man who taught me just about everything i know whonwas a mechanic for over 60 years.
Usually it only take 2 hit to break it loose and spin it right off. With no damage tonthe nut on the clutch. And unlike your thin fan clutch wrench that can and will stretch and slip more the work with a chance of rounding off the corners or the knuckle buster wrench that people use on the pulley bolts that can strip or snap the blots holding the pulley to the water pump. You also dont have to concern your self with adding tension to the belt which risks damage to the tensioner. Not once have i damaged a fan clutch nut or a water pump doing it this way
@@ottobauner9828 did you not see the nicks he left on the nut?
Adding tensioner won't damage it. Why would it?
It might break or stretch a worn belt. But the tensioner won't break unless it was about to anyways.
Not sure what cheap and thin fan clutch wrench you used but the one I bought worked perfectly. Two hits and it immediately loosened. Came right off.
Zero nicks on the nut.
I'd rather break the wrench then the nut on the clutch fan.
@@RodknockRhett ok im not sure what your looking at but he didnt put one nick in the pulley. Amd using the method he is using you touch the pulley. Or are you speaking on the fastener nut on the fan clutch that is remedied using a larger drift with a blunt end. And obviously little knowledge of how a serpentine belt tensioner is assembled and how it works if you dont understand how it can be damaged. You are exerting force on it it was not made to handle. Over stretching the external spring, stretching weaking it its made to push an eaxct amount of pressure. Also added side load pressure on both the idler and tensioner pulley. Also the other accessories are not designed to handle that kind of pressure on the pulley aiding in premature barring failure. What he did caused no damage or added stress to any of the pulleys or accessories. Also I can grab my drift and hammer and have the fan off before your set up.
Brother this was a great informative video... Thanks!
Probably late to comment. Abd thank you for the helpful video. I have a 2003 Chevy S10 Pickup Truck I'm working on. And the pump didn't come with the return line filter. Is that a must in the pump? And if so, where can I get one?
@blaztplayz5524 it should still work just fine, that filter is mostly for catching metal particles if the old pump came apart, if your fluid was mostly clean before, i wouldn't stress about installing a filter. Have a great day!
Which power steering pulley tool (remover/installer) did you use?
@@bsolo7186 i think it's a MAC Tools brand, I'll have to check later
Great video.
Where did you buy the repair kit?
Rockauto.com
Thank you brother really fine job your instruction was perfect mine works like a champ appreciate ypu fully!!!!
You're welcome! Hopefully I'll have some more videos coming soon
Hey dan, 14 minutes in you pull out the sensor that has one inch nutt. What is that sensor. I broke end off taking out and don't know what it is
Honestly I'm not sure of the technical name of it but i know it holds the pressure relief valve and spring in place, it might be called the suction line fitting
@@theman9764 fluid level sensor but thanks for reply just seen it lol
Would you happen to have the part #'s for the seals?
I bought the complete kit on rockauto, sunsong #8401490
Would this be mostly the same with a 1999?
Exactly the same
Why do some people say to remove the AC compressor and bracket?
Not sure really, maybe to just make more room to work with
I had to, impossible to remove without. Also egr check valve hose
Hi good video here .Is the pump shaft end threaded 5/16in.? What I see on my 98 4.3 v6 is 3/8 hex? Or is there thread further in shaft? Tap it out?
I don't remember exactly what size the threaded hole is but it is threaded in about an inch or so
Thanks Dan, got her done with harbor freight tool.The shaft is 3/8 nc. and needed chasing out. Pulley held firm before it would take up
I did it without removing the pully. Much faster and not hard.
Interesting, you just remove bolts.
Nice magnet action, I'm gonna have to buy one...
Anyone have any idea what size the mounting bolts are in the front of the power steering pump. Can’t find what thread it is anywhere
Wish i could answer that one for ya
Me gustó mucho el video de reparación y cambio de retenedor,pero en mi caso tengo eses mismo tipo de bomba y tiene un ruido duro como si estuviera un rodamiento mal.que será ese ruido?
Bomba de dirección asistida desgastada
A medida que los cojinetes del impulsor se estropean, comenzará a hacer ruido cuando la bomba gire. Si tiene una bomba de dirección asistida defectuosa, generalmente también experimentará fugas alrededor de la polea, una polea tambaleante o dificultad para girar el volante cuando esté parado.
En el video no se ve que tenga rodamientos, es que quiero asegurarme para desmontarla y cambiar rodamientos.Muchas gracias por su consejo
nice video , did you get a rebuild kit?
Yeah, i got it on rockauto, so far it's been holding up just fine
Excellent video
How do I reattach the belt?
I prefer to install the belt around all the pulleys in the correct order leaving the last section over the top of the idler pulley, and then swing the tensioner over and finish installing it under the idler pulley
@@theman9764 thank you sir, you helped me out a lot thank you for making this video and responding back to me. . Hope you have a great holiday season this year, god bless 🤝
Excelente, saludos desde Venezuela
Great video. Thanks
Can you teach me how to do Mercedes power steering pump
Never done one of those
Great vid. Thanks a bunch
I used this video to diagnose my remanufactured part I purchased. I knew it was a high pressure issue. The newly remanufactured power steering pump would really only allow me to turn the wheel when I was in motion. If not in motion it was extremely difficult to turn the wheel even with two arms. Anyways. Took pump off and I didn't know there was a high pressure check valve. Pump wasn't leaking so I opened that 1" nut up and removed the check valve. It was remanufactured loose. There were 3 washers just free so I tightened them up with an 11mm socket and put it back on the vehicle. And bam! Works like new. I was being told on a forum that it was gear box or pump was no good. Just a loose bolt. So thanks a bunch. Now I really know my way around how pumps work. You saved me about $400. 😁👌👍
well done Dan
Holy shit! Thank you!
Great job
Thank you!
Thank you bro
You get it fixed?
Great video …….
Life saver
Your flag isn't hanging properly.
I noticed that too, was going to mention it but noticed you already had. Thanks.
Your mind isn't thinking properly. This beginning of the video was obviously taken with the FRONT FACING selfie lens which always makes objects appear reversed L-R. Take a closer look at the decals on the toolchests in the picture. His flag is A-ok.
Good uh video.. uh but uh theres alot of uh... uhs to uh listen to. Ugh
@@treekllr uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh............ sorry bout that, public speaking is not one of my best attributes
is this 4x4 or 2wd?
2wd blazer
If the truck is 4x4 with no bottom access to pump, here is a link to a document which may be of help...
docs.google.com/document/d/1hzeESC1E2lswpM1Bj0rmFlW2JQLCsCNC/edit?usp=share_link&ouid=103651151372989198589&rtpof=true&sd=true
For those of you with a 4x4 S10 with no bottom access to pump, here is a link to a document which outlines the procedure for removing & installing the pump. Coupled with this excellent video, the document may be of help. Ny vehicle is a 2001 Chevy S10 4x4 .............
docs.google.com/document/d/1hzeESC1E2lswpM1Bj0rmFlW2JQLCsCNC/edit?usp=share_link&ouid=103651151372989198589&rtpof=true&sd=true
Great video
Thanks!
Great video, thank you very much.