Vlog 19: DIY campervan: Propex HS2000 heater plus sink installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2018
- In this video I show how I screwed the sink into place on the worktop, using the supplied fixings, demonstrate a silly design flaw in my inverter, and go into further detail about the Propex heater installation, looking at the exhaust and air inlet pipe routing through the floor of the van. This involved drilling holes in the van floor - a nervewracking experience.
If you liked the video and wish to leave me a tip, thank you!
www.ko-fi.com/davidjohns
See also the previous vlog in which I began the heater install: • Vlog 18: Propex HS2000... and also this vlog where I add more insulation wrap to the heater's exhaust pipe: • Vlog 27: Adding extra ...
Tools and parts used (Amazon affiliate links)
DeWalt jigsaw: geni.us/Van_DeWaltJigsaw
DeWalt drill: geni.us/Van_DeWaltDrill
DeWalt mitre saw: geni.us/Van_DeWaltMitreSaw
The portable toilet is this one: geni.us/Van_Toilet
Sink unit is: geni.us/Van_SinkHob
Heater unit: geni.us/Van_PropexHS2000
Inverter: geni.us/Van_Inverter
Web www.vandemonium.co.uk
Twitter / vandemoniumuk
Instagram: / vandemoniumuk - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![บุษบา - วงชานเมือง [LiveCoverVertion] Original : เมนทอล](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dm81sKcd9rs/mqdefault.jpg)
For a bloke who reckons he's a DIY numpty on his narrow boat , I think you're doing damn well
Thank you!
Yes . . . I am in awe of how this has all come together.
A well deserved G&T is definitely in order! Awesome work! The van is really looking good now😊
It is with great enthusiasm that I await every new upload two Vendemoniun and of course Cruising the Cut. Your Vlogs are quite detailed in content and at the same time quite interesting and entertaining, great job!
I just said there’s nothing on telly to night and then like the shop keeper out of Mr Ben you appear ! Funny as ever
Keep up the good work
👍😀🐾
I agree one has just gotta love that shop keeper out of Mr. Ben. Where have all the great creators of the world's best things gone?
Thanks van-man for keeping alive the magic of new things to fix every day...and isn't your woodwork polishing just brill!
Loving the commentary, thanks for sharing!
Coming along nicely David.
I'm really enjoying watching you put the van together.....
Very nice! Enjoyed your honest description of every step of the adventure!
As usual a very enjoyable video. Really like the worktops. Enjoy another G n T for a job well done!
Your hard work is paying off David. Looking forward to seeing the finished conversion, as I imagine you are!
Oh, my I was a bit worried also about drilling holes, but you Sir are a pro at it. Again well done my friend, this van build is Awesome! I love it! Let's have that G&T now...Cheers!
Looking good! All I can think of is how much work is involved in a van build!
Her is a toast to you Sir David, I always have a G & T in hand while watching her vlog, cheers o' boy
Looking wonderful
Nice job on the wood stain...just beautiful! Well done on the hole drilling.....yes, would be a scary thing, I would think!
nice job david. looking good . hope you had your G&T.
Nicely done!
The varnished panels look really good. I hope you enjoyed the well earned GnT
Good vlog mate and a great idea to add some bits of wood for the sink screws. 🖒
2 things I want to say.
First, I'm really impressed how the van is turning out. You're doing one hell of a job.
Second. I enjoy the way you put things into perspective on for the average person. In the way you talk about parts. As in, that thingyabob, funky part, crazy whatcamacallit.
I have to admit. I saw earlier pic of it on Lorna's vlog.
I think what I like about your vlogs David is the realness of them, if you stuff it up you tell us about it! I love woodwork and have made a few mistakes along the way but that 's how you learn isn't it? I think you're doing an amazing job of this little van and you can't go wrong with a Toyota. I own a Toyota Hiace in Perth Western Australia and they are really good work horses. Our RAC recommended the Toyota's before I bought mine they go on and on and are very reliable.
Thank you so much! Yes, I do try to show it "as it is"!
After painting the edges of the freshly cut holes to prevent rust, I highly recommend sealing back up with under body sealant which is present on the rest of the under-pannels.
beeeeutiful woodworking!
Good thinking on the G & T.
You really should patent that toe controllable heating unit. That's the best invention since the reclining chair. 😄
David: Everything is looking GREAT!!! Consider stuffing steel wool around those pipes to prevent mice from making your beautiful project their new home. And discourage ants some way? You are doing a wonderful job!
I would of though a G &T was a vital part of the process and as such be factored in the budget.
Additionally the van is coming on nicely and looks great, well done.
Come now, surely G&T isn't subject to budget constraints - it defines it! The budget is whatever remains once a satisfactory supply is secured...
just one observation on your counter tops a couple of coats of epoxy would give a much harder and smooth surface! and the van is coming along nicely well done
I know this info is 3 years too late, but in case you ever do some upgrades or build a new van, there is a way to get a good reference point you can use for measuring above and below the van. Park near a wall or other solid vertical object, and you can use that to make measurements above/below.
Great attention to details and quality work, I believe your next narrowboat should be a fixer-upper with a great hull and a rough/unfinished interior so you can outfit it your way.
I have considered that!
Keep on the eye on the spare tyre rack there. My exhaust hanger looked like that and it was rotted out, a good wiggle and it crumbled in my hand.
As to the progress though, coming along nicely, continually impressive work.
Ha! OK, thanks. I lowered the spare a few days ago to see how it all was and the hanger seemed fine but I'll keep an eye on it.
I tip my hat to you for seven coats of varnish. Looks fabulous sir.
Did I say seven? I only did three! (but I'm adding another coat to the rear worktops now as well)
This surely is dangerous! They carbon monoxide fumes from there heater exhaust could 're enter their van through any 3 of these gas drop outs.please get this installation checked by a gas engineer.the exhaust should be piped a good distance from there open vents surely? Like ....a long way away.carbon monoxide? No thanks.best wishes.si.
Hi. The exhaust pipe does end further away from the hole it drops through, and it also points away from the van. Every install of the HS2000 has the exhaust pipe exiting through a hole in the bottom of the van (and that hole having a larger diameter than the pipe it takes, as specified in the Propex instructions). Furthermore, there is a CO detector in the cupboard next to the vents.
Vandemonium Ah, my bad hearing 🤭 You said several, not seven! Opps, sorry. My hat is untipped! However I do admire you for your persistence in carnying out a cracking build. I have no doubt you will be having your work checked over for gas and electrical safety. It’s not in your makeup not to. Roll on the next episode.
Gas yes, electrical no - I'm quite happy about the electrics.
Ah, David, you have produced a product of ingenious design without smudging all safety requirements. You have also reacted wisely and calmly to all comments with adequate reference for back-up. With all the confusion of the build in sorting it through, I am sure deep down you are dreaming of a completion so it can be tested. I am excited for your goal to be reached, and long to hear your final remarks after a few boon-docking excursions. Please carry on.
I do hope I've not smudged the safety but I have read all the documentation and tried to ensure my build complies, despite conflicting requirements (eg CO coming back up through the gas safety vents, which seems to be a "no win" situation to me!)
Emergency Ventilation Exhaust System hasn't been invented yet, maybe for this model. But of course...I am thinking of vehicles that are pressurized, such as planes, spaceships, etc.
The 'waffles' on the underside of your floorboard provides structural support for weight/load limits, allowing a higher gross carrying capacity, in my estimation. ( such as Per Square Inch flooring < axle load.)
Good job :)
Units looking good, just a thought, when I fitted my proplex I remember reading about not extending the exhaust hose and to keep the exit as straight as pos. Not saying it won't work but keep a note incase of any problems. Keep the hard work up and the end will be in sight.
Propex say the hoses can be up to 2m long. If it doesn't work then I'll report back :-)
You may want to get some Nylon window screen to put around your drop through heater pipes and also over the vents for any gas on those floor vents. That won't interfere with what they're there to do but will keep out the bugs. Unless you don't mind sharing a little G&T with the biting bugs via your blood.
👍 thanks again !
I always vertically level a level off with a clamp to my saw horse both rear and at the side. Then I measure from them when cutting underneath and marking inside
I should also say that we have quite a level floor
nice one bob 10/12
It looks like you may have installed the vent fitting at the end of your heaters fresh air and exaust ducts upside down...it seems to me that the grate end of the fitting would go outside with the duct sliding into the cylindrical portion of the fitting...maybe the install instructions called for that configuration, but i find it hard to belive that there was any need to cut a hole in the grate...this may be why people are commenting about air coming in from outside...if the grate end of the fitting was outside with the duct inserted into the fitting, the interior would be closed off from the outside. You are giving a very good effort and i enjoy watching your videos.
It seems I did not make the vent purpose clear. It's not part of the standard fitting, the pipes just have to be routed to the outside. I chose to add the black plastic vents to line the hole made into the floor/metalwork of the van but as the vents are sold as gas drop vents, they have that mesh on the top which had to be cut to let the pipes through. The pipes *must* exit and be routed to the edge of the van.
hate to be a nitpicker, but arent those holes going to let cold in? mind you... who cares?! lol the heater will mask the cold 😊
you did an excellent job of it! great work! loving seeing the cut cruiser coming together! yay!
They may but they're required to let the hoses out and as gas leak vents.
I know exactly what you’ve felt by drilling in the bottom. But I’ve took it up a notch -> by completely cutting away all of the floor of the van between the chassis rails. Than I had to re-design the floor to fit a wheelchair. If your interested how it looks search for the b-style Opel combo wheelchair accessible vehicle.
Crikey, that's quite the conversion
Damn good job, lets hope the engine is good after all this :)
You are the King of Templates😁
“To hell with the budget”... wow Lol welcome to walking on the wild side... 🤣😂😆
Well done Dave, I was expecting to see an adapter on the drop out thing, with out you having to cut a hole through the grill. As some one said insects and things could get through. The inverter has as you said a strange design. Must be some logic some where.Keep up the good work.
Bear in mind the black plastic vents are sold as gas drop outs, they're not part of the heater kit. I just chose to install them to line the hole through the van floor, hence why they need a bit of bodging .. err, modification .. to suit their purpose.
mickyjb2003 Brassington I think Victron are a Dutch outfit - continental type plugs 🔌 don’t have the cable exit at a right angle to the plug. Pity one can’t specify socket orientation for U.K.
David, type hinges. Have looked a Amazon uk., noting must be a special thing for nikon at that model. On Amazon electric cables in and output from Norway to Bolivia ! But inputs with "knee"... nothing! Cheers David take a G and T on the Midsomer Nigth beeavare of the fairy and elfs! BarbroSweden
Hi Dave try using a socket adapter with a series of available positions from the left right and top sides this will aid your inverter problem.
Also is it possible your van could fail it's MOT due to the possibility of engine exhaust gases getting into the inside of the vehicle hope not but worth checking.
One more thing that box section you showed underneath the van would make a good safe you would only need to cap off the bottom and put a door into it from the inside. All the best and I must say these are great videos on your experience and exploits lol Daron.
The van just passed its MoT with no issues but the exhaust gas thing isn't something they'd check anyway I don't think.
Coming along nicely - not too much of the scary stuff left to do is there?
Great video, here it comes.... lol... But the large gas drains you might really want to seal bc you will get rats or mice & they will chew that plastic vent holes up to get inside & eat your food & do some damage to other stuff in the van. I'm all to experienced with that tidbit for sure. Ate my dish & showering towles. And mice turds everywhere you looked. This was in my camper which has a bad roof. Long story... I would like to tare it down & build a tiny house on the trailer. But I don't think I can do it in my disability state. So frustrating. I'd need lots of help for sure.
Well I'm sure you've looked into all this stuff. Good luck,
Chris
I think I may fit metal grilles. I'm not going to seal them up, they have a job to do. Cheers
Good to see that your pilot hole did not pass through the fuel tank.
I hope there's a similar start battery protection diode as in your narrowboat. I have worked on a similarly sized air heater fueled with kerosene, Wallas2000, in a 28 ft sailboat. It's very effective cold nights in the spring and fall but not good enough below 0 °C, when the boat is not in use anyway. Your van is half the air volume of a sailboat and perhaps better insulated so it can maybe cope well in the mild British winter temperatures.
Not sure what you mean about the diode? The starter battery is not connected to the campervan side of things.
Yoinks!
I am confident that you put a fair amount of thought into this, so maybe you will explain it to me. If you are willing (please?). What determines whether you place the vents through the floor vs the side wall? How will you keep water, salt and weather from coming in from the bottom when you are driving highway speeds and particles are prone to shoot around and about from the tires? While the same can (and is) said about side vents, and these are certainly protected from the elements being underneath the carriage, I am picturing a blackish mess spraying around inside the cabinets needing ventilation. Is there a cover that can protect the floor without blocking the air flow you need for proper ventilation? Thanks for answering these questions. And for letting us follow along on the build.
The vents must be in the floor facing down because they're there in part as gas drop out holes which must be at the lowest point and able to let any leaked gas float down and out. The exits are behind a mudguard section so it shouldn't get muddy; the underside of the van there is pretty clean.
Just bear the holes in the floor in mind when fording rivers 👍
I hope I won't be doing much, if any, fording!
Jubilee clips there is a flexible driver, think screwdriver with flexible sharftwith nutdriver on the end. The first time you have to use it in a location where you cant see you realize the price was worth it
Things are going forward. :)
I'm really enjoying watching you work through all this. One question about those heater exhaust and combustion air black plastic fitting thingies... since there is a gap between them and the flexible pipes, won't that let exhaust gases seep up into the van? Carbon monoxide is lighter than air and could conceivably get pulled into the van, which would be bad. You might want to seal that gap in some way just to be safe
Carbon monoxide is almost exactly the same density as air. Even if those holes didn't have a gap, there'd still be the LPG drop vent under the sink; such vents are a standard safety fitting in UK vans in case of a propane leak (which is heavier than air, so would drop out the van through the hole). The main van exhaust pipe is on the other side, facing backwards and exiting at the back. I have installed a CO alarm under the sink unit so any CO either coming back up or coming out of the heart will be detected. I certainly don't want to seal round those pipes, they're part of the drop vent safety.
Would magnets have been a good reference for measuring? For instance, put magnets at the center of where you need them to be - fixed.
I wonder if those little screw cups should have stood on top of the holes and the rubber plug would seal them and provide support for the sink top? The plus is the standard for transformers etc. and was designed intentionally to always come out the wrong side .
just wondering did you put the black plastic outlet fittings in upside down, ie push them in from underneath, so you did not have to cut the mesh. Well on your DIY skills, keep measuring and checking.
Use a magnet to find your position
thanks again for a very informative vlogs on the van build, i am working on a friends vivaro kitchen fitting and have learnt some good tips, i have one thought though, and its to do with your other narrow boat vlogs, how do you get on with gas drop out vents on a boat ?? especially a narrow boat, they have gas locker at front and the vent is above the waterline, but what about the stove, and cooker ?? or is the space large enough not to need a vent ? but again thanks for the vids watching yours and doing the kitchen on my friends has got me thinking and planning maybe one day i will try one
They don't have vents within the boat, simple as that. Some boats have LPG detectors in the bilge precisely for this reason, in case there's a build up of any escaped propane in the depths of the boat.
Coarse you will screen the drop out vents (all ends) to keep mice from crawling into them, which they love to do, they completely wrecked my air conditioning system in my Dodge Ram 2500, crawled up into it and made nest, blocking the dampers from changing airflow directions from floor to defroster positions, even had a little bugger build a nest inside the air intake on the other side of the engine air filter, good thing he didn't eat through the air filter as I would have sucked up all his little acorns into the engine intake. Not good. So you would be amazed at how small a space they can crawl through, steel wool prevents them from chewing through though, so hope this helps, hate to pass on my worried to you, but caution is the best preventative. Cheers, and as always, God bless
Hi William. Hmm, the drop vents already have that plastic mesh that I had to break through to make the hole for the pipes but it's only been cut enough to just let the pipe through so I was going to assume that would be sufficient not to let anything other than a keen insect up the hole. As for the actual metal air inlet and exhaust pipes, they have no grille over the end so I suppose a critter could indeed climb up, but they're not sold with any such fitting and I worry that to improvise something might obstruct the air flow. Someone else in the comment suggested steel wool was quite flammable so maybe not the best for the exhaust vent.
I think I’d’ve opened up that inverter to flip that socket, because Jesus. This is why European Schuko sockets go both ways!
yeah, you wil be just fine :D
greetings,, Kitty.
you should seal round the sink/hob unit.
Looking good bro but you may need some fine screen mesh around those drop tubes to stop small insects like ants moving into the cupboards. Other than that you are doing just fine. ATB
Fair point Ken, cheers
Enjoying watching the van come along. I have one question... you mentioned you won't use the inverter much, just maybe running the laptop. In that case, why get an inverter, why not a voltage stepup CONverter? The trouble with the inverter is they are so inefficient. You take 12 volts, the inverter (very inefficiently ) converts that to your 220v or 240v, then you will use an AC adapter to convert it back to 12 volts again, just with a slight step up in voltage (probably to 19 volts for most laptops).
With my own campervan (Toyota Hiace, similar size to yours) I just have the 12v cord that plus into the cigarette lighter, and converts 12v to 19v and with the corect ammperage for my laptop. Very efficient, and you can buy them for much less than an inverter.
Hi. Thanks. I'm aware inverters are inefficient, the laptop mention was just an example. I doubt I'll actually take it in the van with me.
Your illness from the previous vlogs makes sense now. You weren't taking your preventative G&T! Have to file that one under lesson learned. The budget should always include at least the regulars amount of G&T supplies. Had a bit of a flashback moment with your Dive, Dive break card.
I didn't realise just how much you sacrificed in order to educate and entertain us all.
It is unnatural and unseemly for a gentleman to not have a G&T when and as required.
Please, please, do not ignore basic dietary needs again. (Did you ever try a small slice of cucumber with the lemon? It adds a certain, "je ne sais quoi.).
As ever, a delightful blog. Funny, informative, encouraging and, as above, entertaining.
I will be sure to stock up ASAP! Cheers ;-)
What do you think about using steel wool to stuff between the pipes and the drop out vent. It is porous enough to let any excess gas escape but tight enough to keep the wasps from trying to build a nest up there.
Interesting idea!
A fine wire mesh would be fine but don't use steel wool, it's very flammable.
Coming along nicely I'd say. Yes, drilling holes in a car's body is always scary, but it seems like a good enough job. Is there any date for your first trial drive?
Nope, still working on it! It'll be winter at this rate :-(
I'm envious of you getting so close to finishing this van conversion. That mains inverter was a stupid design wasn't it! One thing I was wondering about, are the gaps in the down vents likely to get water thrown up into them when driving in the rain? There's a lot of water shifted by road tires when you see them on the roads on a wet day. I'd be watching for any moisture ingress there.
Not a lot I can do about it, the vents must be in the floor facing down because they're there in part as gas drop out holes which must be at the lowest point and able to let any leaked gas float down and out. The exits are behind a mudguard section so it shouldn't get muddy; the underside of the van there is pretty clean.
I suspected you had a good reason for it, you usually do have everything pretty much thought out in your head before you do anything. Yes, it did look really clean underneath where you were drilling etc. I've been using a DVLA link as a reference for what the bare minimum is, have you found that there's legalities that expand out when you install things, for example the part quoted here: "a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle, powered by gas or electricity" does the gas part have to have a lot of additional things added, like a locker for the bottles and all the vents etc? Its not entirely clear what they mean by "remote" for the supply. Or is it up to you to make it safe however you feel fit? here is the DVLA link i had read and plan to follow: www.gov.uk/government/publications/registering-a-diy-caravan/converting-a-vehicle-into-a-motorhome
The DVLA guidance is a bit vague and I've even found advice on the forums that says they can't insist on a double hob even though they do (not that I want to argue it). I think their requirements don't get too technical but it's merely sensible to install a safe gas system with locker, vents etc for your own piece of mind - plus your insurance company might require it.
Vandemonium - David, I was thinking about the previous question and realized there is an easy way to prevent any water intrusion into those plastic vent fittings. Cut a tennis ball into quarters and use some heavy duty adhesive to secure one quarter to each fitting facing rearward. You have then effectively given each fitting its own mud flap. Cheers and excellent work.
Why not just have the right sizes holes? Without utilising drop out vents or did I miss that part?
The orientation of that socket on the pure sine wave inverter reminds me of the orientation of one lift bridge with the controls on the side away from the towpath. Same engineer?
Haha, maybe! I think they unit is aimed at a European audience with a different plug, and they just stick a UK one on without any thought :-(
Hello diamond geezer!
I've never been called that before...
So Wrong! ;/
Reserved for the working classes!
Use a double plug . Plugs on from the top simple
Haha, I didn't think of that. Genius. However, I've put it on stilts now :-)
You could always put a stake in the ground as a fixed reference point.
Mark Peacock that's what I would recommend.
Gotta be done by sat-nav surely.☺
Plug an adapter socket into the inverter and then the plug into the adapter socket to give space for plug cable?
SAFETY!!! - If the van is parked is there a chance the heater exhaust gases with enter back up through the floor around the loose fitting hoses or other floor openings?
Yes, there is a tiny chance. The alternative is not to have safety vents for any escaped, explosive propane. The latter are definitely required.
@@Vandemonium sounds good. Confirmed: Unburned propane vapors are heavier than air. 👍
Tightening those jubilee clips must have been a nightmare, with lots of swearing I'll bet. :-)
David! Reely nice work, but i would cotact the maker of the inverter and ask how they think about the power outlet! Must be meny more than you that is in building projects of meny kinds and install that inverter! I just thought do you have plugs withe winkels? On my orginal battery charger from Nikon there is a built in winkle so it is able to have the cord straight or in winkle, perhaps there are some gear of that kind on the market! Barbro Sweden
Winkels??
Vandemonium I think he may mean the flexible,concertina type moulding of the cable as it enters the plug. No good though,as the plug and cable won’t come apart.
Nice job David. Works for me. Stay vertical Eh!
👍
With all the weight added to the vehicle was it necessary to beef up the rear suspension?
No, the van has a payload capacity of 1.2 tonnes so even with the camper conversion there's loads left.
Just my opinion ..... I would have fitted the heater on the floor so the inlet plus exhaust outlet has no joints inside ,them silicone joints are they for hot water temperature ? I thought exhaust would get far too hot for silicone coolant joints . Holes around vents will not only let in cold air but you will get every bug that can squeeze through them . Keep up the vlogs thanks
Please see the prior video for why it's fitted there. Even on the floor the vent holes are required to be larger than the unit's pipes so insects could still get in. The silicone boots are by Propex themselves, specifically for the heater.
Masses of progress. I assume the G&T improved matters no end...
I'm needing a few more, replying to some of the comments ;-)
In that case it's probably best to stock up as it's practically a business expense.
How do you prevent insects and flying pains in the arse from coming through the openings of the gas hoses?
It's a good question. I asked Propex if they manufacture a small grille end cap that could go on them but they don't :-(
Dave .... have you seen those pictures/video's of people who paint floors starting at the exit door? They always end up with nowhere to go........... Are you SURE you'll have any space left in the Van for 'You' at the end of all this?? ;-)
Will the air intake pull exhaust fumes being so close together?
They are 0.5m away from each other which is the manufacturer's specification and they point away from each other.
Can you recommend a pressure regulator for the propex hs 2000?
I cannot, sorry.
I think you got this in the last moments of the vid, but is there a risk of the inlet sucking in the outlet when they are that close together?
The Propex installation instructions say the pipes must be 0.5m away from each other and not point at each other. Mine meet this criteria.
I don't know if this is explained in later videos but do those holes not cause heat loss. If previous videos you seemed to go to great trouble to block out any holes that heat could escape from but that plastic gauze had a clear route for heat to escape. Is it too minimal to matter?
It will but it's required for the heater so you have to live with it
It's possible that the socket on the inverter can be unbolted and swivelled 90º. Ask Victron and give them a bit of stick while you're at it.
No, it can't :-(
That really is serious design flaw you've explained here...if I'm not being blindingly obvious ..the manufacturers need to fix it pronto and you should be rewarded for exposing it...surely?
It's a case of "Do not adjust your brain, there is a fault in reality".
It's either that or I'm just Mr Baffled of Bognor.
You Have the vent and exhaust from the heater close to each other do you not need more separation? I would worry that the inlet would suck the exhaust back into the van. Just thinking
The inlet and exhaust are away from each other and pointing in different directions. The instructions say " The combustion air pipe can be terminated underneath the vehicle making sure the end of it is at least 0.5 metres away from the end of the exhaust and that they are not pointing directly at each other" and my install complies with this.
Can see water coming up through those two holes every time you drive in the rain or go through puddles or even cross a Ford
That's as maybe but drop vents in case of gas leaks are absolutely standard on campervans with propane, there's not much I can do about that. Oh, and there's a piece of plastic trim that sits underneath the holes so water wouldn't splash up directly. It would have been exactly the same if I'd mounted the heater on the van floor.
Once it’s all finished are you going to do a total cost to build and fit it out?
After journey with jonos battery videos I think I’m a professional with them blue batteries!
Yeah probably although I'm a little embarrassed by what I spent on nice tools so I'll gloss over that bit. It's not been a cheap build, once you tot it all up!
Vandemonium yeah ignore the tools you had them before you started building ;)
As for the measuring, it's a bit late now I know but, you could have used a long striaght piece of wood with two other pieces of wood affixed at either end at 90 degrees in as sort of U shape arrangement
Still gotta ensure it's bang on 90 degrees to the surface else the measurements will be out.
Yeah, you would have to make the jig properly
Of course a fixed reference point could have been a stake in the ground at the back of the van
I'd probably bang the stick in at an angle and still have different references at the top and bottom!!
much the same idea although the jig would give you more precision and if your making multiple holes is worth the extra effort but CC has already made the crucial first hole so no worries
Another great video. Progressing well. On the subject of the gin and tonic, I wholeheartedly agree with you...chin-chin.
May I ask where did you get the exhaust pipe sleeve ?? Many thanks
From Propex, they have an online shop